F L AV O U R S
WAGASHI
These Japanese confections take on many forms and colours but the prettiest versions – done up in eyepleasing pinks and greens – pop up during spring.
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f there is one symbol of seasonal food, Japan’s wagashi must be it. Wagashi is the collective term for the delicate Japanese confections that come in a myriad of shapes, colours, forms and flavours. These are sold in the food halls of department stores or in speciality cafés and are packed in exquisite boxes for gifting purposes. There isn’t one standard definition of wagashi, according to the Tokyo Wagashi Association. The term generally refers to rice mochi snacks that are steamed or baked and are eaten sweet or savoury. But there are actually about seven categories of wagashi, from nerimono (made by shaping red bean paste) to the more common mochimono (made with rice mochi). Some are served plain while most wagashi have a red bean paste or fruit filling. The type of wagashi you buy and eat depends on the season or festive occasion. For instance, hishimochi is a ceremonial treat eaten in March on Doll’s Day or Girls’ Day, a traditional Japanese holiday that celebrates the life of young girls. Its diamond shape is said to represent fertility and the three pink,
white and green layers depict youth and good health. Different types of wagashi are also made and sold during each season of the year. In spring, they come in colours like pink and green that symbolise freshness and abundance. The more intricate versions are even shaped to resemble pine trees, apricots and cherry blossoms — all highly associated with the season. This is in sharp contrast to the wagashi you see in autumn that tend to take on earthy tones inspired by the season’s foliage and that use chestnuts and persimmons for a more filling snack in the cooler weather. In summer, jelly bases are used in yokan wagashi to give the idea of a cooling treat and in winter, wagashi makers create white confections that bring to mind falling snow. While you might be tempted to wolf down a few pieces of wagashi at a go, don’t. It is recommended that you savour one at a time, with a cup of fragrant green tea and by a window from which to view the beauty of the season that’s inspired the artisanal confection in your hand.
TEXT PEARLYN THAM PHOTOS JNTO, 123RF
for every season
