Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 76 | Autumn 2020

I SSUE 76

AUTUMN 2020

Spectacular

Fall Rides Shinshu Autumn Hikes Legends of the Genjiro Ridge ‘ Building the Worlds Highest Hotel Shikoku by Camper Van

Kochi Kōyō Cycling Local Brew Q&A: TDM 1874 Japan in Cider Market Watch

Autumn 2020 | 1

Explore the wonderful natural environment of

SHINANO TOWN Stunning Seasons Adventure Forest Therapy Family Fun

www.shinanomachi-nagano.jp 2 | TRAVELER

SHINANO TOURISM ASSOCIATION 2692-12 Kashiwabara, Shinano-machi, Nagano-ken, 389-1305 (0262) 55-3226 ・info@shinano-machi.com

I S S U E 76 AUTUMN 2020

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KOCHI KŌYŌ CYCLING INSIDE

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14

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Northern Shinshu Autumn Hikes

Building the World's Highest Hotel From the Editor. . . . . . . . . 5 Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . . 6 Japan in Cider .. . . . . . . . . . 7

Legends of the Genjiro Ridge

Shikoku Road Trip: Kochi by Camper Van

Local Brew . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Cycling Japan . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Travel Directory. . . . . . . . . 28

Autumn 2020 | 3

g n i p m a C Day AT MT. FUJI

Private day-camp and BBQ rentals in Fujinomiya for you and your friends!

・Rental space limited to one group ・Available from 9 AM-6PM on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays ・Includes: Bell tent rental, E-bikes, fire site, BBQ set, insurance ・Not included: Food, drinks ・¥10,000 yen/person (minimum 4 and max 10) Optional: ¥2,000 yen/person for local organic BBQ ¥3,000 yen/person for English E-bike guided tours (3 hours)

EN-YA MT. FUJI

ECOTOURS

Protecting our natural environment and community.

4 | TRAVELER

@mtfujienya

Contact Us! info@ecologic.or.jp

F r om

Published Seasonally

t h eEdi t o r

T

he Summer of 2020 has come and gone. Many of us are thankful the heat, humidity and travel restrictions of this pandemic-filled, Olympic-less summer are behind us making way for a cooler autumn season. Hopeful signs are on the horizon and if Silver Week was any indication, people are more than ready to get out there and explore Japan, with many using the Go to Travel Campaign to get some great deals.

From Oct. 1, Tokyo residents can also join in on the fun, taking advantage of 35% discounts on accommodation plus an additional 15% in vouchers. Day trippers can receive up to ¥10,000 a day toward travel as well. The Go To Travel website (only in Japanese) has a list of participating accommodation—with more added every week—and some of the major booking sites such as Booking.com, AirBnB and Jalan have discounts for participating accommodation. You can also call places directly and ask if the campaign discount is available.

Winter sports enthusiasts will be happy to hear the campaign will run through Feb. 1, 2021, so be sure to book early so you don’t miss the peak powder. It’s going to be a great winter for snow-loving Japan residents as inbound travelers will be limited, so this is the year to get out and enjoy some uncrowded runs at your favorite resort.

For those that are still wary about traveling to busy areas, or have underlying health concerns, there are a lot of great places to visit using private transportation and self-contained accommodation. Cycling is the perfect social distance activity and autumn is the best time to ride with warm days, cool nights and generally stable weather. Check out Five Great Autumn Rides in Japan as well as the Japan Eco Track for the Tosa Reihoku region of Kochi with several great cycling routes featured. We stay down south and road trip through Kochi Prefecture by camper van. Camper rentals have become increasingly popular in Japan, and with michino-eki (roadside rest areas) and hot springs never far away, they are an ideal way to explore the country safely and at your own pace.

We get back in the mountains with Tony Grant with a variation route on the Genjiro Ridge, a place steeped in legend and lore. He has also conquered his second book, “10 Classic Alpine Climbs in Japan.” Volume 2 of his popular climbing guidebook for Japan is available on Amazon now and packed full of essential info.

If technical climbing isn’t your thing, Daniel Moore introduces some autumn hikes in northern Shinshu where you can enjoy the brilliant fall colors and find the trails to fit your fitness or adventure level. We then go from the Japan Alps to the Himalayas, sitting down with Sonia Miyahara who talks about her father’s legacy and new English book about building the world’s highest hotel in Nepal.

If all this activity has made you hungry (and thirsty), it’s harvest season in Japan—the time for fresh autumn veggies and fruits. Local farmers and farmers markets have adapted to the new normal offering more fresh, organic veggies to be ordered online as Joan Bailey reports in Market Watch. Apple season also means cider and Lee Reeve gives us the lowdown on local and imported ciders that you can order online. We also find out what’s brewing with TDM 1874 Head Brewer George Juniper who shares how to get some of his award-winning craft beer delivered to your door.

We wish our readers a season filled with health, happiness, gratitude and plenty of travel and adventure. Get out there!

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K. DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Tony Grant, Daniel Moore, Takashi Niwa, Lee Reeve DESIGN Outdoor Japan OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. 45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728 EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com

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—Gardner Robinson

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Cover Photo: Norikura, Nagano Photo courtesy of Takashi Niwa

Autumn 2020 | 5

MARKET WATCH

BY JOAN BAILEY

THE MARKET IS

Farmers Market @UNU

A

s summer turns to fall, so the offers of the seasonal table at farmers markets change. Zucchini and cucumber give way to pumpkin and chestnut; watermelon makes space for persimmon and apple. Perhaps most exciting is the arrival of the season’s first rice harvest, a somewhat touch-and-go affair this year given the long rainy season.

The following sample of markets are open and brimming with growers and producers eager to share their bounty.

The majority have rules in place for social distancing, masks, and handling of produce. Some, like the Nagoya Organic Farmers Asaichimura, limit the number of visitors per market day. Many, like the UNU Market, no longer make plastic bags available to shoppers. Visit websites and plan ahead to make the most of your autumnal foodie endeavors.

All American, American. all the time.

Kannai

Farmers Market @UNU Reopened in August at the Oval (the space in front of the United National University), Tokyo’s premiere farmers market is operating on a smaller scale but is still big on fresh and seasonal.

Check out Momogi Farm’s excellent veg, including organic popcorn, or Ome Farm’s amazing honey. The Hot Sauce Bar keeps things spicy, while Yagisan no Kurimono (Gift from the Goat) will be touting their most amazing breads. Vendors vary from Saturday to Sunday, so check the schedule ahead of time.

Aoyama, Tokyo Saturdays and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. www.farmersmarkets.jp

Yokohama

Shinagawa Home delivery OK! Check our website!

6 | TRAVELER

OPEN

Kamakura Farmers Market Established in 1933 for the promotion of Kamakura’s unique produce, the market has run almost daily ever since. Stop by for a taste of the four seasons in this ancient capital while mingling with locals and tourists alike. Tasty pickles, fresh vegetables, cut flowers, seedlings, and some of the best fresh-baked bread in the area are all at the ready. Each day features one of four different groups of growers and producers, so visit often and shop well.

Kamakura, Kanagawa Every day, 8 a.m. to Sold out www.kamakurarenbai.com

Oasis 21 Organic Farmers Asaichimura Oasis 21 Organic Farmers Asaichimura Dedicated solely to organic farmers, this market sits in the center of Nagoya City in the futuristic Oasis 21 building.

Founded by Takako Yoshino fifteen years ago, the market boasts a roster of more than 70 member growers that come throughout the year. Vegetables, rice, fish, tea, and meat are available every week, making this market an easy regular stop.

Nagoya, Aichi Every Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. www.asaichimura.com For more markets, peruse previous Market Watch columns online and get eating!

Kamakura Farmers Market

CIDER IN A CLICK

J A PA N IN CIDER

BY LEE REEVE

W

hile I am a proud perennial cider drinker, I will concede that autumn is certainly the season when cider’s magic is best experienced and energetically felt. Nature gives us the most colorful period of the year complete with apple harvest, savory foods, and that slight change in temperature and crispness in the air almost subliminally teasing you to seek out a pint of cider.

In Japan, however, that might not always be an easy task. While the amount of cider, both domestically produced and imported from overseas, has increased over the last few years, access to those ciders can be a downright challenge if you don’t know where to look and harder still if you can’t read Japanese. Even worse, what do you do if you don’t live within Kanto or Kansai proper—or anywhere near a cutting edge bottle shop? If you have a mobile phone or PC and access to the internet, online shopping is a practical way to go.

JAPANESE CIDERS

VinVie VinVie is a winery and cidery in Matsukawa, Nagano Prefecture that launched in April 2020. In addition to making consistently good ciders from Japanese apples, they have also been innovative in using unconventional yeast strains, including one harvested from bumblebees and wasps, which gives their ciders an extra tart finish.

Their website is in Japanese, but finding their ciders is quite easy. Either search for the Japanese word shiidoru ( シードル ) on the page or browse the pictures until you see the bottles with English on the labels. Web: www.vinvie.shop Ringo School Cidery Ringo School Cidery in Iizuna, Nagano Prefecture, also launched in 2020. They’re another cider maker incorporating creative practices like opening themselves up to the public, who can register for a cider making class and make their own cider. With rotating teachers and apple varieties, they are continually offering something different.

Their website is also only in Japanese, but finding their ciders is a cinch and a simple Google Translate will tell you the apples used to make each cider. Web: www.shop.5gaku.com

Ringo School Cidery

IMPORTED CIDERS

Antenna America The undisputed champion of craft beer imports to Japan, Antenna America jumped into the cider game seriously last year. They currently advertise three well-known American brands, Shacksbury from Vermont, JK’s Farmhouse from Michigan, and ACE Ciders from California.

Their website has enough English to make navigation painless and plenty of delicious ciders to choose from. Web: www.antenna-america.com Japan Cider Market Japan Cider Market is the country’s first online shop that actually specializes in ciders and ciderrelated goods. The shop boasts a selection of some of the world’s best ciders from countries including the UK (Tom Oliver’s Fine Cider), France (Wignac), and Australia (Willie Smith’s), and will soon offer delights from Luxembourg and Canada.

The website is in English and Japanese, and most orders are delivered the next day. Web: www.japancidermarket.com You can also find cider on the the usual online outlets like Amazon and Rakuten, but the sites above are managed by folks who care about and are experienced with cider. They can even answer questions you might have about their products.

VinVie

Autumn 2020 | 7

LOCAL B R E W Q&A

WITH GEORGE JUNIPER HEAD BREWER AT TDM 1874

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

TDM 1874's British Head Brewer George Juniper started his craft beer brewing journey at Dark Star Brewing in England before coming to Japan and working for Hitachino Nest Beer. He continued honing his craft at Brimmer Brewing, working under ex-Sierra Nevada brewer Scott Brimmer. In 2017 he joined TDM 1874 as head brewer, going on to win awards as best new brewer in Japan.

Gardner Robinson: What was the first beer you made as a home brewer?

George Juniper: I’m pretty sure it was an English bitter from an extract kit, very easy to brew. I can’t remember how it turned out, nor was I really old enough to be drinking beer when I first started brewing.

GR: Was there a flash point for you while home brewing when you thought you could do this for a living?

GJ: It never really occurred to me until it fell in my lap. I was homebrewing lots at university in Brighton; I was lucky that a local brewery (Dark Star) offered me a job after one of the brewers tried my beer. At the time I wasn’t really thinking of what I wanted to do as a career, but I’m glad brewing found me.

GR: You’ve worked at British-run breweries, American-run breweries and Japanese-run breweries; what did you take from each of your experiences?

GJ: When you work in different breweries you really pick up on a lot of different methods. There are hundreds

8 | TRAVELER

of ways to go about making beer. You also compile a list of ways you DON’T want to do things.

An example in Japan: Many breweries here apply the same shoes/ slippers rules there are for houses—in the brewery. Having worked in a British brewery I feel it is far more important to be wearing steel-toed boots when doing brewery work inside and outside, as safety is most important.

GR: As the name suggests, TDM 1874 has a long history. Can you give a brief background about the family and the business dating back nearly 150 years?

GJ: TDM 1874 brewery is owned

by Sakaguchiya—a sakaya (liquor store) founded in the Meiji Era (hence the 1874). Shuichi Kato is the fifth generation owner of the company, which has been in his family and the same location since the start.

GR: When did TDM 1874 decide they wanted to start craft beer brewing?

GJ: Sakaguchiya has been selling nihonshu (rice wine) for nearly 150 years, but sadly in recent years the popularity has been in decline. The decision was made to broaden the company portfolio within the alcohol industry. This started some years back with expanding the variety of wine Sakaguchiya offers (the owner is also a

GJ: We shifted beer production more towards cans rather than kegs, which really helped us to continue making beer throughout the state of emergency in Greater Tokyo. As we also have a liquor store at TDM 1874 we were able to stay busy. There were still lots of thirsty people staying and working at home, which fresh canned beer is perfect for.

GR: What’s the best way readers and craft beer lovers around Japan can get their hands on your beer?

GJ: There are links to both our Rakuten and Yahoo online stores on our website if you want beer shipped directly to you. Or ask your local craft beer bar or bottle shop to stock TDM 1874. sommelier), as well as importing. With the popularity of craft beer rising, the idea to build a small brewery was also put into place and we began brewing in January 2017.

GR: Is there a particular beer or style you’d consider your signature brew?

GJ: Our British Best Bitter is perhaps the one we are best known for as there aren’t many examples of the style in Japan. However we also are well known for the IPAs we produce here, which are extremely popular.

GR: Do you have any seasonal beers you think readers would particularly enjoy this autumn?

GJ: Our autumn beer, Akibiyori, is one I always look forward to—something a bit maltier and full bodied once the summer heat dies down. I personally enjoy beer more in the cooler months and Akibiyori was created as a celebration of the end of summer (not my favorite season to be brewing!). We will see the return of Brown Porter, too, which is one of my favorite beers.

GR: Brewers and restaurant operators have all been severely affected by the pandemic in 2020. How has TDM 1874 coped with the new normal?

TDM 1874 Brewery & Taproom

Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture 7-min. walk from Tokaichiba Station (0459) 85-4955 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Closed Wednesdays) Web & Home Delivery: www.tdm1874brewery.com

Autumn 2020 | 9

NORTHERN SHINSHU AUTUMN HIKES

BY DANIEL MOORE

Nagano Prefecture—once referred to as “Shinshu” and “Shinano-no-kuni”—is home to some of Japan’s great mountains, attracting serious alpinists in search of challenging routes. Yet for those looking for a pleasant day in the mountains among Japan’s stunning autumn foliage, Shinshu’s northern region offers a range of hiking and outdoor activities for hikers, families and dabblers just looking to see some beautiful fall scenery. Here are five recommended day hikes easily accessible from anywhere in northern Nagano.

LAKE ONUMA, SHIGA KOGEN Shiga Kogen is best known as one of Japan's top winter sports areas, renown for the size, altitude and powder snow at the resorts that hosted a number of events during the 1998 Winter Olympics. The green season, however, is no less spectacular. Shiga Kogen is located in a national park and was named a UNESCO and Biosphere Reserve. The whole area is an untouched, natural getaway perfect for a break from the city.

Starting at Onumaike Iriguchi (Onumaike Entrance), it's roughly a 90-minute, one-way hike up to the teal waters of Lake Onuma. The hike starts off as an uphill forest trail with some steps, then turns into a gently sloping gravel road.

Once you arrive, walk as far as you can around the lake until you reach the picnic area. Have a break there before continuing a little further and walk out onto the peninsula with a red torii gate (the iconic symbol for a Shinto shrine). The Japanese believe beautiful natural places—lakes, rivers and forests—are home to kami (gods or spirits) and when you visit, you can see why.

You can either return down from here on the same path or continue on to the 48 ponds (Shijuhachi-ike) area. You can walk all the way to Yokoteyama Ski Resort via the 48 ponds but getting back to the car becomes a problem unless you leave a second vehicle there. Don’t forget to enjoy the famous yellow leaves that Shiga Kogen's autumn season has to offer.

GETTING THERE

By Car: 30 minutes from Yudanaka Station (the train station for the famous Jigokudani Monkey Park) or just over an hour from Nagano Station.

By Bus: From Yudanaka Station, take the bus towards Okushiga Kogen. Alight at Onumaike Iriguchi. Make sure to check the bus schedule when you leave as buses are infrequent.

Accommodation: Anywhere in Shiga Kogen, Yudanaka Onsen, Shibu Onsen, Nozawa Onsen or Nagano City.

10 | TRAVELER

TOGAKUSHI, NAGANO CITY Togakushi is famous for ninjas, Shinto s hr ines and soba noodles, but many people don't k now that there is also a great network of hiking trails. For the shortest option, start at Okusha Iriguchi (Okusha Entrance) Bus Stop and walk towards Okusha Shrine.

It's a well-traveled and easy 45-minute round trip walk that takes you through a beautiful 400-year-old cedar forest and an iconic red gate. The cedars are evergreens but the forest around them turns into bright yellows and reds. Finish the walk at Okusha Shrine, w here you c an pay your res p ec t s before turning back.

For a longer route, after visiting Okusha Shrine return to Zuishinmon (the red gate) and take the trail into the forest. This takes you towards Kagamiike (Mirror Pond). Walk around the pond, admire towering Mt. Togakushi reflected in the lake on a clear day and loop back to Okusha Iriguchi in about 90 minutes. This is a well-marked trail

with lots of hikers so don't worry about getting lost. There is even a restaurant at Kagami-ike if you didn't bring lunch.

For a longer option, climb Mt. Togakushi from Okusha Shrine. This is a much longer route (six to seven hours) for experienced hikers only as there are some knife edges and extremely dangerous sections. Make sure you have proper equipment and experience before at tempting this route.

GETTING THERE

By Car: 60 minutes from Yudanaka Station or 45 minutes from Nagano Station.

By Bus: One hour and twenty m i n u t e s f r o m N a g a n o St a t i o n t o Togakushi. Make sure to check the bus schedule when you leave as buses are infrequent.

Acco m m oda t io n: Shukub o Go kui (Pilgrim's Accommodation), Tsukiyama or Zen Hostel Togakushi.

YONAKO BAKUFU, SUZAKA Yonako Bakufu is one of Japan's most iconic water falls. Ascetic Buddhist monks used to train here by meditating under the ice cold water.

From Suzaka City, drive 30 minutes to the entrance of Yonako Bakufu. This route also has no public transportation access. From the entrance, take the 90-minute loop offering various vistas o f t h e w a t e r f all a n d s u r r o u n d i n g mountains. The trail is not difficult, but is fairly rocky, so make sure to bring adequate footwear. The fall scenery here is famous among the Japanese people and is highly recommended in autumn.

C o m b i n e Yo n a ko B a k u f u w i t h sight s eeing in O bus e. O bus e has many sake breweries, ar t galleries (Japanese ar tist Hokusai spent his final years here), temples and gardens open to the public. Check out Kurabu restaurant for delicious traditional charcoal-grilled Japanese cuisine.

GETTING THERE

By Car: 45 minutes from Yudanaka Station or Nagano Station.

Accommodation: Any where in Noz awa Onsen, Yudanaka O ns en, Shibu Onsen or Nagano City area.

Autumn 2020 | 11

Photo by Shiga Kogen Mountain Discovery

BIWA-IKE, SHIGA KOGEN Not to be confused with the much l a r g e r B i w a ko ( L a ke B i w a) i n S hi g a Prefecture, Biwa-ike is a short, 90-minute loop in Shiga Kogen that is family friendly and offers pristine views of the pond and ski area. Start from the large parking lot next to Sun Valley Ski Resort and walk down towards Biwa-ike. You can walk either clockwise or counterclockwise around the pond. Shiga Kogen Mountain Discover y located at the pond of fer s s t and - up paddle board rentals and canyoning experiences. (Web: www.shigakogen-md.com) To make a day of it, combine the hike with SUP or canyoning.

There are a few options for extending this hike. You could hike up Asahiyama (30-minute round trip), or continue on from the far end of Biwa-ike towards Hasu-ike. This takes you on a trail leading to a series of lakes including Naga-ike, Sankaku-ike and Maru-ike. This option is quite a bit longer though (three to four hours). Visit Shiga Kogen's visitor center at Yama-no-eki before hiking to pick up a trail map.

GETTING THERE B y C a r: 25 minu tes f ro m Yud anak a Station or just over an hour from Nagano Station.

By Bus: From Yudanaka Station, take the bus towards Shiga Kogen (You can also take buses going towards Okushiga K o g e n , Yo k o t e y a m a o r S h i g a M t .

Takahara). Alight at Sun Valley.

Accommodation: Any where in Shiga Kogen, Yudanaka Onsen, Shibu Onsen, Nozawa Onsen or Nagano City.

LAKE HOKURYUKO AND KOSUGI SHRINE, IIYAMA Lake Hokur yuko is an easily acce s s ib le o ne - ho ur w alk aro u n d a picturesque hear t-shaped lake. There is no bus access, so you need a car to get here. Park your car at Hokur yuko Camping Ground. From there, you will see the gravel road leading around the lake. On the other side of the lake, make sure to check out the peninsula housing Japan's seven lucky deities. There is a restaurant spot near the campground open irregularly and a nice outdoor rotenburo bath at Bunka Hokur yukan nearby.

F o r a l o n g e r o p t i o n, d r i v e f i v e minutes to Kosugi Village. Park your car below the village and walk up towards the wooden torii gate. From there, it is a two-hour round trip hike to Kosugi Shrine in the mountains. Like Togakushi, there is a beautiful cedar-lined trail that takes you deeper into the forest. This is a much more difficult trail with steep steps and uneven footing so go prepared.

Just below the entrance (the torii gate) is a great soba restaurant with a wellmanicured garden great for lunch before or after your hike.

GETTING THERE

By Car: 10 minutes from Nozawa Onsen, 30 minutes from Yudanaka Station or just over an hour from Nagano Station. No public transportation.

Accommodation: Anywhere in Nozawa Onsen, Yudanaka Onsen, Shibu Onsen or Nagano City area. v

Daniel Moore is a guide, business owner and writer who has lived in Japan for more than twenty years. He was a guide for Walk Japan before starting Active Travel Japan, taking international tourists to remote destinations in Central Japan. Daniel lives in Nagano and is passionate about snowboarding, hiking and pickleball.

Web: www.activetraveljapan.com

12 | TRAVELER

SPECTACULAR

CYCLING JBY TAKASHI A P ANIWA N

AUTUMN RIDES

TRANSLATED BY SAKAE SUGAWARA

Okudatami

A

utumn is Japan’s most colorful season and the best time of year to be outside enjoying some two-wheeled social distancing. We’ve chosen five routes—all easily accessible by car—where you can immerse yourself in autumn’s splendor.

NORIKURA, NAGANO Japan’s Highest Paved Road The name “Norikura” is sacred to cycling hill climbers in Japan.

Tatamidaira Basin (2,720 meters) is the highest place you can reach on paved roads in Japan. Just park your car at the Norikura Kogen highlands and pedal up! It is a 20.5 kilometerroute with an elevation gain of 1,260 meters. No personal motor vehicles are allowed on the route so cyclists have the right of way (taxis and shuttle buses are exceptions). Views from above the treeline are spectacular, but beware of sudden changes in weather and make sure to bring cold weather clothing.

Distance: 51 kilometers (round trip from the Norikura Kogen to Tatamidaira) Peak Kōyō: Mid to late-September Norikura

KURIKOMAYAMA, IWATE Tohoku Peak Kōyō Mt. Kurikoma (Kurikomayama) is one of the top fall foliage spots in Tohoku. From the center of Ichinoseki City, in the south of Iwate, it is a 45-kilometer ride to Kurikomatouge (Kurikoma Pass). We recommend this as a round-trip ride and Ichinoseki is on the the Tohoku Shinkansen (bullet train) Line if you choose to come by train. The route climbs about 1,100 meters and, with this much elevation gain, you will encounter the “true colors” of autumnal leaves as they gradually change colors from the foot of the mountains to the top. If you have extra energy and time, the peak of Mt. Kurikoma is a three and a half-hour hike up and down from the pass.

Distance: 90 kilometers (round trip to Kurikoma Pass) Peak Kōyō: Early to mid-October OKUTADAMI, FUKUSHIMA Deep Forest Foliage When asked where to see the best fall colors with virgin forests of beech and other deciduous trees, my first answer is always Okutadami. It is recommended to cycle one way through the forests from Hinoemata Village in Fukushima Prefecture to Uonuma City in Niigata Prefecture (Approx. 85 kilometers), but you can enjoy seasonal foliage by making a round trip visit to Numayama-tōge (Numayama Pass) which is about 23 kilometers one way with about 820 meters of elevation gain. Upon your return to Hinoemata— after a chilly downhill—enjoy a heavenly dip in the onsen at one of the many minshuku.

LAKE KAWAGUCHI, YAMANASHI Fuji Five Lakes Fall Cruising Kawaguchi-ko is one of the Fuji Five Lakes and boasts a view of colored forests and Mt. Fuji across the lake.

A 15-kilometer loop around the lake with a short cut across Kawaguchi-ko Ohashi bridge is almost flat and good for cycling beginners. Depending how much time and energy you have the route may be extended by including Sai-ko or Shoji-ko and Motosu-ko in the loop to make the ride 28 or 62 kilometers respectively.

Distance: 15 kilometers Peak Kōyō: Mid-November KYOTO AND NARA Ancient Temples and Neighborhoods Kyoto and Nara are simply beautiful in autumn. Grab one of the well market maps of the city and enjoy the colors temple hopping on a 20-kilometer route throughout Kyoto. Pedal further out to the suburbs—Arashiyama on the west, Ohara in the north or Yamashina in the east—and you take in the ancient capital to the fullest. Nara City and its neighboring towns and villages also have many temples and shrines with beautiful autumn flora. Pictured here is the outskirts of Ikaruga, where Horyu-ji temple is located. Idyllic landscapes like this are part of Nara’s charm.

Distance: Approximately 20 kilometers Peak Kōyō: Late-November

Lake Kawaguchi

Distance: 46 kilometers (round trip from Hinoemata to Numayama-tōge) Peak Kōyō: Mid-October

Autumn 2020 | 13

LEGENDS OF THE

GENJIRO RIDGE

BY TONY GRANT

For a long time Tsurugidake was regarded as the dwelling place of demons. No place for men. Its razor-sharp ridgelines and sheer cliffs were too difficult, too dangerous. It was literally the last blank spot on the map of Japan, an unknown. That is until 1907, when a rivalry between a military map-making expedition and the Japanese Alpine Club brought about its first ascent. Or so they thought…

14 | TRAVELER

L

egend has it that when the Japanese Alpine Club arrived at the 2,999-meter summit they found the remains of a spearhead several centuries old. Nobody knows the identity of the lone visionary who braved the valleys of hell to slay those ancient demons and leave this spearhead there at the top of the world.

Of all the iconic alpine variation routes on Mt. Tsurugi, there is something special about the Genjiro Ridge. Viewed from the upper reaches of Tsurugi-sawa it appears impregnable; flanked by sheer walls of rock and vegetation, and rearing up over 1,000 meters from the valley floor directly to the summit, through two gigantic rocky pinnacles.

It presents a vision both terrifying and alluring, and viewed from this aspect, the crux of the puzzle appears to be just getting onto it in the first place.

But as is so often the case, those early pioneers of Japanese alpinism were able to root out an ingenious way through, and in July of 1925, the great Kinji Imanishi gif ted us one of the most beautiful variation routes in the Japan Alps.

My own adventure on the Genjiro began with a 2:45 a.m. alarm call in the tent at the Tsurugisawa Campground. I always find sleep an elusive luxur y the night before these things; and after the previous day’s tortuous approach from Tokyo, involving multiple train connections, the trolley buses and ropeways of the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, and then the slog with heavy packs over the Bessan Col, this night was no exception.

At such times a good strong cup of coffee insulates the fragile psyche from the mental construct of what we are about to attempt.

Cinching our har nes ses and shouldering backpacks, my climbing partner Riccardo and I set off down the faint trail into the lower reaches of Tsurugi-sawa by the light of our head torches. We soon reached the top of the year-round snowpack, recently classified as a glacier, but opted to stick to the trail hugging the slope above, rather than tangle with the hollow mess of late -summer conditions we could see below us.

Af ter some time, the s teep snows of the Heizotani Valley appeared on our left, as the dawn turned the sky salmon pink. It was time to begin the search for the elusive access point to the foot of the Genjiro.

The Japanese topographic maps show two ways of accessing the ridge: the “Ridge Route” and the “Runze Route.” The latter is the way to go in spring snow conditions, when the gully (runze) is full of snow, presenting a steep but straightforward snow slope. In summer conditions it is very difficult, steep and full of loose rock, with some hard climbing and sparse protection; much better to take the ridge route, which offers a wellworn trail, easy to follow. An hour later, having learned this lesson the hard way, we eventually located the ridge route and were off to the races.

This initial climb was unremittingly steep but well featured, and we soon got into a decent flow, punctuated by one short section with in-situ pitons that required the rope. As we began to get above the trees and into the haimatsu (dwarf pine) zone, we encountered one particularly exposed slab that prompted Riccardo to reflect on the limits of his free-soloing comfort zone. Eventually, after several hours of grind, we emerged onto the summit of the first of the Genjiro’s grandiose pinnacles.

Autumn 2020 | 15

The depth of the exposure around us was dizzying, and my eyes were constantly drawn to the ramparts and pinnacles of the famous Yatsumine Ridge, acros s t he open air of t he Chōjirodani Valley. Continuing over the pinnacle, a steep down-climb brought us into a narrow and improbable col, with a sheer and uninviting ascent on the other side. As is always the case on this ridge though, what appears improbable from a distance always reveals a path through as you get closer. Picking our way up the nearver tical arête on the other side, we were struck by how much we were enjoying ourselves.

From the top of the second pinnacle t he for t res s of Ts ur ugi’s s u m m i t r e a r e d i n t o v i e w, a s I approached an in-situ rappel anchor on the cliff edge above the col that connects the second pinnacle to the upper mountain. I arranged the rope, slid down the 30 meters to the col, and then sat down to eat and drink while I waited for Riccardo to make the abseil.

The way to the summit was now open to us and, mindful of the

16 | TRAVELER

ever- present chance of af ter noon thunderstorms in the Alps in summer, we hustled across to the final ridgeline.

The ridge seemed to steepen in rever s e cor relation to our energy levels, and after what felt like endless scrambling, I glimpsed the summit shrine above me, and climbed out of the void and onto the small perch of Tsurugi’s summit.

Wispy af ter noon cloud swirled gently around us as we chatted to a couple of hikers, and arranged our summit photos. The weather looked stable, and the pressure was off, so I indulged in some time to rehydrate and reflect on past experiences there; like the magnificent 12-pitch left arête of the Chinne, just beyond the head of the Yatsumine Ridge.

A s t he af ter noon wore on, we slowly picked our way down the normal “Bessan Ridge" hiking trail, across the infamous “Kani-no-yokobai” traverse, until we arrived at the Kenzansō Hut. Back on relatively flat ground once again we donned our face masks, the new reality of these coronavirus times, and sprawled out on the steps of the

hut to enjoy an ice-cold beer.

It had been a truly wonderful and memorable day with a good friend.

And as we sat reminiscing about the Genjiro, I was filled with both gratitude and admiration for Imanishi-san and all of his contemporaries from the Golden Age of Japanese alpinism, and for the body of classic routes they left behind.

OTHER HIKES NEAR MT. TSURUGI If alpine variation routes are not your thing, there are plenty of other less technical options around the Murodo Plateau.

• Enjoy the his tor y and drama of the famous Kurobe Dam, traversing the North Alps on the mind-blowing infrastructure of the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route.

• Take a relaxing stroll around the hiking trails of Jigokudani, with an onsen at one of the huts.

• Tr a v e r s e t h e t h r e e p e a k s o f Ta t e y a m a , o n e o f J a p a n ’s t h r e e famous holy mountains.

• Enjoy the hike up neighboring Mt. Dainichi, with unbeatable views across Toyama Bay. • S p e n d a n i g h t a t t h e Ts u r u g i gozen Hut on the Bessan col, and photograph Mt. Tsurugi at sunset and sunrise.

• Challenge your mind and body with an ascent of Mt. Tsurugi by the normal “Bessan Ridge” hiking trail.

10 CL A SSIC ALPINE CLIMBS OF JAPAN (VOLUME 2) If you’ve always wanted to climb a classic alpine route in Japan, but didn’t know where to star t, check out Tony’s latest book in the Amazon Store, “10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan ( Volume 2).” Tony’s newest book is pac ked wi th invaluable information for climbing enthusiasts such as: • Full route descriptions, including transportation and access, for some of the best alpine climbs in the country.

• Ro u te m a p s, to p os a n d l o t s o f photos to help with route-finding • Ad d i tio na l e s s ay s o n Ja pa n e s e maps and GPS apps, climbing grades in Japan, the climbing seasons here, rescue insurance and much more.

Available now on Amazon a t: w w w. a m a zo n .c o m /C l a s s i c A l p i n e - C l i m b s - J a p a n - C l i m b /d p / B08DSYSRHM. v

Autumn 2020 | 17

B ui lding t h e

WORLD'S HIGHEST HOTEL Interview with Sonia Miyahara

BY RIE MIYOSHI

18 | TRAVELER

C

onstructing a hotel at 3,880 meters is not an easy task. Back in the 1960s it was monumental. In 1968, entrepreneur Takashi Miyahara defied expectations and built the world’s highest hotel in the Himalayas. Driven by his passion for Nepal and mountaineering, he garnered support from the local Nepalese government to not only build Hotel Everest View but also make the Himalayas a sustainable tourist destination by providing jobs to locals living in the Himalayas. The construction of Hotel Everest View took several years and relied heavily on local Sherpa porters who carried food and supplies on a two-week trek from Lamusangu.

Visitors from the world over headed to the hotel when it first opened its doors in 1971, with the 360 views of the Himalayan mountain range taking their breath away. The project was praised not only for the hotel providing stellar views of Mt. Everest and the surrounding Himalayas, but also how Miyahara’s team literally paved the trail for travelers of all ages to experience Mt. Everest.

Miyahara passed away in November 2019 at the age of 84, leaving behind his stone-terraced hotel. Hotel Everest View was listed on the Guinness Book of World Records in 2004 as the highest hotel in the world. It has been surpassed since then, but remains a popular travel destination for those exploring the Khumbu Region. His daughter, Sonia Miyahara, is planning to celebrate the hotel’s 50th anniversary in 2021 with the English release of her father’s book, "Himalaya no Tomoshibi" ("The Ray of Light in the Himalayas"). Although the book was written in 1982, Miyahara was ahead of his time as he recognized the importance of sustainable tourism. The hotel was never massively profitable, but Miyahara’s reward was each time his teary-eyed guests thanked him for the opportunity to view Mt. Everest.

We caught up with Sonia on her recent trip to Tokyo at her father’s office where she was gathering old photos from the hotel construction. The 38-year-old takes after both parents, with her father’s twinkling eyes and laugh and her Nepali mother’s warm personality.

Autumn 2020 | 19

Rie Miyoshi: What was the secret to your father’s success working and pioneering tourism in the Khumbu Region of Nepal?

Sonia Miyahara: My dad was passionate about supporting Nepal’s tourism and economy, and the locals saw and respec ted that. Of course the hotel was a big part of it, but he wanted to create something more that would help Nepal. Rather than relying on foreign aid, he wanted to create jobs for the loc als, especially the Sherpa community.

He also had the suppor t of his mount aineer ing f r iend s in Japan.

Some of them have passed away due to climbing accidents unfortunately.

I believe my dad worked harder on the hotel to honor his friends. And whenever he had an idea, he would be on it immediately. Even when he was older, he would think of projects to wor k on. Sometimes it wor ked, sometimes it didn’t, but he always used to tell me he wanted to do something no one else had done before.

20 | TRAVELER

RM: In his book, he talks a bit about g r o w i n g u p i n N a g a n o. D i d t h a t influence him to start mountaineering?

SM: His family owned —and still owns—a charming ryokan called Fujiya in Tazawa Onsen. It’s near Ueda in souther n Nagano and sur rounded by mountains. So you could say he had a background in hospitality. He also studied mechanical engineering which helped a lot with the hotel construction. In university, he joined a mountaineering club and later on, was chosen to go on research expeditions to G r e e nla n d a n d A nt ar c t ic a. H e enjoyed exploring Nepal and eventually quit his office job to work in the Nepal Ministry of Commerce and Supplies.

RM: It must have been a logistical nightmare building a hotel in the Himalayas in the 60s.

SM: Yes, back then there were no access roads to Syangboche Ridge where the hotel sits. Namche Bazaar, which today is a gateway to trekking around Everes t, was undeveloped

with no accommodation. They had to get to Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) first to pick up supplies and construction tools brought in from Japan, then ensure that was transpor ted safely to Kathmandu, then eventually up to Syangboche. Ever y thing took time and patience. My dad was a child during World War II so he experienced some hardship, and I believe that led to strength of character. He was also a minimalist, and would try to fix anything that was broken.

R M : Yo u r f a t h e r b r i n g s u p a n interesting point about the Sherpa and Japanese people sharing some similarities.

SM: Yes, they both are hospitable, respect and enjoy the outdoors and even look a bit similar, so perhaps that’s why Japanese hikers feel a sense of connection to the Sherpa. Of course the location is amazing, but the people definitely make the place and I think that’s why we get repeat visitors.

RM: Did your father ever climb Mt. Everest?

SM: He actually tried to climb it at age 60. He was really close to the summit but got snow blindness in one eye and had to turn back. But he attempted it at 60 years old, which I think is a pretty great feat in itself.

RM: What was he like as a father?

SM : (laug h s) Yo u k n ow, h e w a s a typical Japanese dad in that he didn’t show much affection and would wave me off gruffly when I tried to hug or kiss him—but he was also very kind, created lots of opportunities for me and would say that everything he did “was for Sonia.” I remember evenings where we would be reading next to each other, him with his Japanese book and me with my English book.

He spoke fluent Nepali with a slight

accent, so that was what we spoke at home mixed in with some Japanese.

He let me pic k w hic h s c hool I wanted to go to and told me I should get overseas experience. So I studied economics in Boston and worked in Tokyo and Singapore. Unlike a lot of Nepali family businesses, he didn’t force me to come home and take on Hotel Everest View after him. He knew how hard it was to build a hotel, so he didn’t want me to have that burden. I think having that upbringing though made me want to move home and help out with our family business.

My dad didn’t share too much with me about building the hotel or his past, so reading the book was an unexpec ted surprise. I didn’t even know he had that conversation with Sir Edmund Hillary.

RM: That chapter shared a lot about your dad’s personality. He didn’t back down when Sir Hillary disapproved his hotel project. It was two great men respec t fully discussing preser ving local culture and nature even though they had opposing views.

SM: Yes, my dad had written down speaking notes to go over with Sir Hillar y but ended up crumpling his

notes up and throwing them in the f ire place! O ne of t he t hing s t hey talked about was making sure the area didn't get commercialized. They both genuinely loved the Khumbu Region, environment and people.

The hotel never became massively profitable, but my dad didn’t care.

Sometimes I would joke that “It ’s okay to make a little more money.”

He just loved seeing people enjoy the mountains. He was also really caring about our guests; whenever we had guests with altitude sickness, he’d show concern and keep asking how they were doing.

RM: Do you think he missed living in Japan?

SM: He definitely missed the food.

He would always come back from his trips to Japan with suitcases filled with fish, natto (fermented soy beans) and negi (long onion). Even when he visited me in Boston, he brought these ingredients over. I wondered how he snuck those through customs.

RM: How do people get to Hotel Everest View today?

SM: We run a travel agency so people can easily book the whole tour. First, fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, then trek

four hours to Phakding Village. The next day, you would trek to Namche Ba z aar, w hic h t a ke s s eve n ho ur s .

The following day, you’d reach Hotel Everest View. We normally recommend two nights there. The whole trip takes a minimum seven days and you have to go slowly to acclimate yourself to the altitude. We also have a chartered helicopter direct from Kathmandu. A helicopter shuttle is also available from Lukla in spring and autumn.

RM: What are your future plans for Hotel Everest View?

SM: With the pandemic we’ve had no visitors and need to prepare for the following year. The hotel is currently closed but we’re hoping Nepal will open its travel borders next spring or autumn. We also run t wo travel agencies, Trans Himalayan Tour and Himalaya Kanko Kaihatsu. Until then we’re going to be working hard to survive. v

For more information o n H o t e l E v e r e s t V i e w, v i s i t www.hoteleverestview.com. To learn more about getting there, visit www.himalaya-kanko.co.jp.

Autumn 2020 | 21

SHIKOKU ROAD TRIP

Kochi by Camper Van

BY RIE MIYOSHI

22 | TRAVELER

K

ochi has always been ahead of its time. The southernmost prefecture of Shikoku Island has long been a favorite travel destination for locals, dating back to the Edo Period when pilgrims making the 88 Temple Pilgrimage would detour to enjoy the beaches and aquamarine waters of Tatsukushi.

The nature-abundant region is also known for being home to two key historical figures who supported Japan’s modernization: Ryoma Sakamoto and John Manjiro. The latter was one of the first Japanese persons to visit the United States, becoming an important advisor when Japan began opening up to the west. Ryoma Sakamoto was a legendary samurai who helped found the modern state at a time when the feudal governments of Japan were failing the people. Kochi’s progressive history has contributed to the people being warm and welcoming to visitors from all countries and walks of life.

Mountainous forests and coastal towns dominate most of the prefecture, where visitors will find enterprising locals and nature guides working to revitalize their communities. Shikoku’s winding roads are best explored by car—or if you’re traveling over several days, a camper van—from Kochi Ryoma Airport or Kochi City. Kochi has a number of campsites, michi-no-eki (roadside rest areas) and convenience stores (even in the most remote locations), which makes road tripping easy.

1

NIYODO RIVER

The Niyodo River is a good first stop as it is a 100-minute drive inland from Kochi City. The phrase “Niyodo blue” has been bandied about by locals for decades as this iridescent river boasts the clearest water in all of Kochi, and is one of the purest rivers in Japan. The river runs through Nakatsu Gorge, a popular hiking and camping spot for its lava-formed boulders and cascading water falls. There is an easy two-kilometer trail along the river ending at the 20-meter Uryu Falls.

CANYONING WITH NIYODO ADVENTURE Niyo d o River ’s f ir s t c anyo ning co mpany, Niyodo Adventure, opened in early 2020, led by a dynamic husband-and-wife team, Hiro and Zoe Kanzawa. The English-guided tour takes around two-and-a-half hours in the Nakatsu Gorge, with plenty of opportunities to jump into pools, slide down natural water chutes and abseil down cliffs.

The grand finale involves swimming into a cave and out through a waterfall. The course is great for beginners, but has some challenging and fun aspects for canyoning enthusiasts.

As there are no other canyoning companies here, chances are you’ll have the gorge all to yourself. If you’re feeling scared halfway, they are happy to provide alternative routes. There’s also a family canyoning option for children six and up.

Canyoning tours run from April to October and peak season is in August. Tours may be cancelled during the rainy season in June and July.

Pack rafting tours are also available further downstream from April to October. It is gentle

enough that inexperienced paddlers can safely learn in grade t wo rapids, but thrilling enough to get your adrenaline pumping. Visit www.niyodoadventure.com.

LUNCH AT TEA CAFE ASUNARO This cafe and restaurant overlooks the Niyodo River and is run by Noriaki Kishimoto, a local tea farmer who wanted to expand Sawatari, the family tea business, by bringing green tea to life through an assortment of dishes. On your way to or from canyoning, stop by Tea Cafe Asunaro for lunch, dessert, tea, or all three. All dishes use the Sawatari local green tea. Dine on the terrace with some fresh green tea udon and enjoy the river and valley views, or grab some takeout green tea waffles for a snack for the road. The restaurant is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and closed on Thursdays.

Visit www.asunaro-cafe.com.

SOAK IN YUNOMORI ONSEN Rest tired muscles from canyoning or driving at this picturesque, riverside onsen inn. Yunomori Onsen’s large indoor and outdoor onsen baths are said to ease chronic skin diseases, chronic women's diseases, cuts, diabetes, nerve pain, and muscle soreness. Stay overnight in a Japanesest yle room or cot tage built using local wood while taking in the views of the valley. Daytrippers c an e njoy t he b at hs f ro m 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Visit www.yunomori.jp.

Autumn 2020 | 23

2

SHIMANTO RIVER

The Shimanto River in wes ter n Kochi is known as one of the clearest rivers in Japan. The 196 -kilometer r i ver s t ar t s in t he mo u nt ains an d empties into the Pacific Ocean, and has sustained the livelihood of the locals for centuries. Along the river, there are a number of chinkabashi bridges. These bridges are designed without side rails to be submersible and reduce the risk of the bridge being washed away in a flood. There are 22 chinkabashi crossing the main river, and while many are modern, there remain a few built in the old style. The longest bridge is the Sada Chinkabashi, closest to the mouth of the river.

CYCLING THE SHIMANTO RIVER Star ting at Nakamura Station in central Shimanto City, rent a bicycle at the adjacent Shimanto Rin - Rin Cycle inside the tourist information center. There are eight bike drop off terminals along the 40-kilometer trail between Nakamura Station and Ekawasaki Station and the c ycling path remains relatively flat as it winds through tea fields and riverside tr ails. A s the chinkabashi br idges have no rails, be sure to walk your bike safely across the bridge. Other ways to enjoy the river within the area are yakat ab u ne (r iver b oat s)

24 | TRAVELER

and kayaking. A breez y 195 -meter zipline across the river was also installed in June 2020. Learn more on www.visitkochijapan.com.

LOCAL EATS Kochi of fers fresh seafood and vegetables year round thanks to its mild climate and long Pacific Ocean coas tline. While c ycling along the Shimanto River, step into Shaenjiri, a c afeteria-s t yle res taur ant at the entrance of Kuroson Gorge for dishes using local Shimanto vegetables, fish and meat. Shaenjiri means “vegetable g ar d e n” in t he lo c al diale c t . T he f o o d t a s te s h eal t hy a n d b r i n g s a sense of comfort as it is prepared by local obaachans (older ladies) and is well visited by locals and visitors alike. The restaurant is open from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and closed on Wednesdays. Shaenjiri is also one of the Shimanto Rin-Rin Cycle bike drop of f stations. Visit w w w.shimanto. or.jp/GT/55shaenjiri/shaenjiri.html.

Back in Shimanto City, the lively Aji Gekijo Chika is a three-floor izakaya (traditional pub -res taurant) with the second floor “balcony” seating overlooking the open kitchen. This windowless restaurant was designed to look like a gekijo (theater). To supply dishes to customers on the second floor, a tray on a pulley is deftly hauled

up and down. Local delicacy katsuono-tataki (seared bonito) topped with onions and garlic is a must try here.

English menu available. Open from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. and closed on Mondays. Visit www.ajigekijochika. com.

CAMPING ALONG THE RIVER Drive 20 minutes from Shimanto City to the mouth of the river for a good night ’s res t at Ya ma mi zuki, a campsite with glamping, auto camping and tent sites. There is a public rotenburo (outdoor bath) and two private indoor baths which you can reserve at check in. The check-in lobby is in a treehouse-like building overlooking the Shimanto River and the Pacific Ocean—a great spot for sunrise yoga. Up the coast are several popular surf spots including Futami and Hirano beaches. Irino Beach is another surf spot that is also called an “outdoor museum” where an annual T-shir t ar t exhibition is held on the beach.

I f yo u’r e o n a b u d g e t , t h e Shimanto River Camping Ground located in Shimanto Cit y is a free campsite located along the Shimanto River. You can pitch your tent or park your camper van here. Free bathrooms available.

3

ASHIZURI UWAKAI NATIONAL PARK

Clear, azure waters with colorful coral and marine life, isolated beaches and dramatic clif fs charac terize Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park. The coastal national park spans the southwes ter n side of Shikoku and includes par ts of Kochi and Ehime prefectures. The subtropical waters make it a breeding ground for colorful marine life and also attracts whales, dolphins and sea turtles. Cape Ashizuri at Shikoku’s southernmost point is also a stop on the 88 Temple Pilgrimage so it’s common to sight modern-day pilgrims walking along this area with their conical hats and walking sticks.

Discover Tatsukushi Bay Tatsukushi, in southwestern Kochi, offers a little bit for everyone. There are rocky shores making it ideal for divers and snorkelers, as well as a s andy beach for s wimmer s. Snow Peak Tosashimizu Camp Field is set up on the right side facing the ocean.

From there, you can walk the shor t coastal trail to Ashizuri Underwater Observation Tower. This peculiarshaped tower is actually built seven meters underwater, so visitors can go down a flight of stairs to see fish and even sea turtles and stingrays when the waters are calm.

Back on shore, the Kochi P r e f e c t u r a l A s h i z u r i Aq u a r i u m , which opened in July 2020, is Kochi’s largest aquarium and home to more than 350 marine species including the region’s famously color ful sea slugs. The aquarium and the adjacent visitor center are alternative activities for those relaxing days or when the weather is poor.

Continue along the coastal trail to see Minokoshi Coast’s sandstone and mudstone rocks that have taken o n an ot her wor l dly s hap e d ue to years of erosion. The rocks are said to look like bamboo from a cer tain angle. Another way to enjoy this trail is to take the glass-bottomed boat departing from the port next to Snow Peak Tosashimizu Camp Field.

Ride an ATV to Kashiwa Island Learn how to ride an ATV buggy with Lagoon Racing. If you have a Japanese or inter national driver s’ license, hop on a buggy to explore the western coast of Kochi. The guided tour s t ar t s of f with 40 - minutes of practice before heading out on the main road. Kashiwa Island is a popular destination as it has some of Japan’s

clearest waters and is home to more than 1,000 types of fish. It is easily accessible via the bridge connecting it to Shikoku’s mainland.

The lesser known Kashinishi Beach also features snorkeling spots around the uninhabited Benten Island, which you c an walk to during low tide. The tours are guided in minimal Englis h an d r un year ro un d. V isit www.automaaudio.wixsite.com/lagoon.

Getting There The easiest way to get to Kochi is by flying into Kochi Ryoma Airpor t. There are sever al c ar or c amping c ar rent al companies like Camping Car Life, Kochi Kur umatabi and Shimanto Rental Car. There is also a Kochi Airport Limousine Bus that brings you directly into central Kochi Cit y. For more information, visit www.visitkochijapan.com. v

Autumn 2020 | 25

Koyo

KOCHI

CYCLING

R

ice fields transform from green to gold in the Japanese countryside of the Tosa Reihoku area in Kochi Prefecture.

Tosa Reihoku is located in the middle of Shikoku Island and is composed of four towns: Otoyo, Motoyama, Tosa and Okawa. The clear Yoshino River flows through the center surrounded by terraced rice fields on both banks. Up in the mountains, Mt. Shiraga and Mt. Kuishi are dressed in fiery seasonal colors and perfect for fall trekking. The varying terrain makes this region an ideal place for cyclists and hikers of all levels. Travelers can easily explore Tosa Reihoku’s Japan Eco Track routes.

The easiest way to get here is by flying into Kochi Ryoma Airport then driving to Otoyo I.C., a 20-minute drive from central Kochi. You can also take the bus from the airport to Kochi Station, then a 30-minute train ride to Osugi Station.

Otoyo I.C. and Osugi Station are located close to each other and are starting points for the following routes.

COUNTRYSIDE RIVER ROUTE This beginner-friendly cycling route starts at Montbell Outdoor Village Motoyama on the banks of the Yoshino River. This rental bike station also serves as a retail store, restaurant, souvenir shop and accommodation. The Reihoku-noyu (hot spring) is on site.

Cycle along the river to Motoyama Sakura Market for fresh produce. A 15-minute ride away is Sameura Dam and the Yoshino Climbing Center, home to Shikoku’s major climbing competitions. Take a detour upstream along the emerald Asemi River before heading back down to the Yoshino River. You’ll see one of Yoshino River’s chinkabashi (submersible bridges designed to not get washed away in a flood). Continue down to Kashino River for a stunning view of terraced rice fields at Tenku-no-Tanada Observatory. Head back north to the Yoshino River for a quick recharge at Joki Coffee before making your way back to Montbell Outdoor Village Motoyama or Osugi Station. This 38.5-kilometer course takes around three hours with minimal elevation changes.

26 | TRAVELER

Tosa Reihoku

SAMEURA DAM AND SEDOGAWA VALLEY ROUTE For cyclists wanting to go further, start this route at Tosa Cycle Station located just south of Sameura Dam. Follow the Yoshino River west towards the Seto River and into Sedogawa Valley, a popular place for fall foliage viewing. The majestic Amegaeri Falls is one of the biggest waterfalls on this route. Further along the road is the Burabura Suspension Bridge overlooking the valley. This 70.5-kilometer route takes five hours and is recommended for intermediate to advanced cyclists.

MT. KAJIGAMORI HIKING ROUTE For rewarding mount ain views, climb the 1, 3 9 9 - m e t e r M t . K a j i g a m o r i i n K a j i g a m o r i Prefectural Natural Park. You can start your trail at Ryuo-no-taki, said to be one of Japan’s top 100 water falls. At the peak, you’ll see the Ishizuchi Mountains to the west and Tsurugi Mountains to the east. Mt. Kajigamori Mountain Hut at the 8th station offers 360-degree views. There are also cultural treasures along the trail such as Sadafukuji Temple’s Oku-no-in and Mikagedo Temple. This 4.6-kilometer trail takes roughly three hours and is relatively easy.

ABOUT JAPAN ECO TRACK

Montbell—Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand and retailer—started a series of events in 2009 called Sea to Summit. The goal was to invigorate local areas, holding events to experience nature through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other human-powered movement. While these events continue to be held in beautiful areas around Japan, the natural progression was to provide information and guides so travelers could experience these areas throughout the year at their own pace while learning the history and culture of the region and interacting with locals.

Japan Eco Track guides contain maps with designated routes of varying difficulty levels. Each guide includes information on local restaurants, guides, tour operations and other attractions. Along Japan Eco Track routes there are support stations located at affiliated stores and major transportation hubs such as train stations, airports and michi no eki (rest areas). Discounts and special offers are available at participating locations when travelers show the Japan Eco Track booklet. There are more than 15 guides, with new areas being developed and offered in English. For more information, visit www.japanecotrack.net.

Autumn 2020 | 27

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Autumn 2020 | 29

Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

CELEBRATING HUMAN POWER AND INTRODUCING THE QUIET BACKSTREETS, BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND UNIQUE CULTURE OF TOKYO NOT FOUND ON TOURIST MAPS.

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Autumn 2020 | 31

32 | TRAVELER