Bruits de Palais n° 68 - EN

bruits de palais « Mountains and water will eventually meet.»

Chinese proverb September-December 2015 | n°

68

The rebirth of tea in Nepal What is the best way to store your tea? l’Herboriste, refinement and well-being

Still discovering Even after 30 years in this business, tea still fascinates me. It’s such a pleasure to discover a new tea, whichever country I find it in.

Tasting a tea is like going on a journey. Over time, you learn to trust your senses, to discover aromas, flavors and textures, and to appreciate them more.

Tasting tea is a constant pleasure, it’s magical.

To introduce you to this fascinating world of tea tasting, I invite you to read this issue dedicated to the pleasures of discovery, while savouring a cup of tea.

Sommaire

François-Xavier Delmas Tea researcher and founder of Palais des Thés

4 The rebirth of tea in Nepal

8

14 l’Herboriste, refinement and well-being

16

What is the best way to store your tea?

10 Grands crus September 2015

Time to shop

18 chocolate fondant with Qimen

Each new tea is a new adventure for the senses.

3 •

You have to drive and walk for hours to reach the mountains where the tea is grown.

Most factories buy fresh tea leaves from surrounding small farmers. It is often a fairer system.

The rebirth of tea in Nepal

The rebirth of tea in Nepal For the past few years, some Nepalese plantations have broken with tradition and are being guided by passion. They are producing new teas that are very high quality - and truly out of the ordinary. “ I often travel around the Himalayan region, and for a long time I’ve been very fond of the people who live there. After the earthquakes that hit Nepal, there have been numerous tremors. The Nepalese people are still traumatised and live in a state of anxiety. Today, I would like to address my thoughts to them and introduce you to this very beautiful country and its inhabitants, some of whom are working to revive Nepalese tea.

Among the Grands Crus that have arrived from around the world this year, I have to say that many have come from Nepal. What is happening there is fascinating. First there was one planter making remarkable teas, then two, then three. Since then, others have followed in their footsteps, and today I’m tasting Grands Crus from 10 different gardens. Some have attained a very high level. ”

François-Xavier Delmas, founder of Palais des Thés

Nepalese tea and its characteristics Even just a few years ago, Nepal was not well known for its tea. But in the past decade, plantations have been trying to produce a new type of tea, very different from Nepalese traditions. It is an idea that marks the rebirth of tea in this country.

THE HISTORY OF NEPALESE TEA The first Nepalese tea gardens were created in 1920, in Ilam and Soktim, covering around 100 hectares. It was not until 1960 that Nepal gained its first factories.

During the years that followed, tea production developed slowly but surely. In the mid-1980s, the government defined “tea-growing regions”: the five eastern districts of the country, in the Terai region. Since then, many plantations, along with their own factories, have been created there. In 1997, Nepal’s tea industry was completely privatised, leading to rapid growth.

leaves are kept whole, guaranteeing rich aromas.

These teas, which are black, green and white, have become renowned among connoisseurs and are exported, often at a high price.

In the regions of Ilam and Dhankuta, many tea plantations have fields of modest sizes, so they often buy fresh tea leaves from surrounding small farmers.

This means they maintain close relations with small producers, giving them advice and supporting them during the harvest. In Nepal, the tea sector provides an income for 7,500 farmers.

Growing areas of black tea in Nepal

CHINA

NEPALESE REGIONS AND THEIR TEA There are three tea-producing regions in Nepal: Terai, Ilam and Dhankuta. The country mostly produces CTC teas on the large plantations of the Terai region. CTC stands for “crushing, tearing, curling”, a technique which involves chopping the leaves finely then rolling them into tiny balls. These teas are intended for the mass market and are of little interest from a taste perspective.

Ilam and Dhankuta, in the east of Nepal, are not like the large plantations. Here, they produce a sixth of Nepal’s tea using the traditional method: the tea

NEPAl

INDIA

INDIA

5 •

The rebirth of tea in Nepal EXcEPtional nEw tEas

Ilam and Dhankuta, the regions at the heart of the rebirth of Nepalese tea There are an increasing number of very high quality teas in Nepal, and this is thanks to the unique “terroir” of the regions in the east of the country, and to the recent development of plantations led by talented producers who have come from Darjeeling to Dhankuta.

For the past 15 years or so, these plantation managers such as Andrew Gardner (see page 7) have been carefully creating new teas in this region, and their success is spreading to Ilam.

in ilaM, sMall ProducErs usE horsEs to transPort tEa lEavEs to thE Plantations.

AN EXCELLENT AND PROTECTED “TERROIR” In Dhankuta and Ilam, the soil is excellent and the climate well suited to quality plantations. Tea growing in these mountainous regions is based on clean farming methods and the respect of forested areas, which can only further improve the soil.

These two regions are not that far from Darjeeling, which is why the cycle of seasons and harvests is almost identical. The new-season teas from Nepal are presented a few weeks after those from Darjeeling, however, due to the harsher climate.

PLANTATIONS THAT SYMBOLIZE RENEWAL 1

2

6 •

Dhankuta district In Hile valley, producers who mostly came from Darjeeling plantations were the first to develop new gardens, the oldest being established around 15 years ago. These passionate producers wanted to create new teas unlike the traditional black tea that can be produced in Darjeeling. With this aim, they have chosen tea plants from among the best recent cultivars, known for their aromatic properties, and which can be planted on steep mountain slopes. These plantations in Dhankuta have also developed artisanal wilting and manual leaf-rolling techniques not usually seen in Nepal or India.

The best-known plantations are Kuwapani, Guranse and Jun Chiyabari, situated close to one another. Today, these gardens produce some of the world’s finest Grands Crus such as Guranse Delmas Bari(1), a black tea from the highest and best plot at Guranse, characterised by its pronounced floral start and delicate astringency.

Ilam district The success of Dhankuta has now spread to Ilam district, which is geographically even closer to Darjeeling. Previously, Ilam’s plantations often sought to imitate what was being done in Darjeeling. It was not unusual for some of the harvested leaves to leave Nepal illegally for India, instead of being processed in the same region. However, for the past three years or so, some excellent plantations have been created, as innovative as those in Dhankuta. Mist Valley, Sandakphu and Arya Tara have produced teas of a remarkable gastronomic quality, such as Arya White Pearl(2): a very delicate white tea composed of downy buds, whose sweet, floral and aniseed notes are gradually and elegantly revealed.

WWW.DISCOVERINGTEA.COM Find out more from François-Xavier Delmas at discoveringtea.com.

The founder of Palais des Thés invites you to follow him on his travels around the world, sharing his experiences and thoughts on tea.

thEsE woMEn arE rEMoving sMall stEMs and othEr iMPErfEctions froM thE lEavEs by hand.

TALENTED PRODUCERS

These recent plantations and their innovative teas owe their success to passionate, bold producers who wanted to create new types of tea by working with different cultivars and by changing the techniques (wilting, rolling, etc.). By breaking with tradition and daring to implement new ideas, they have often met with great success.

“

PORTRAIT of Andrew Gardner, pioneer of Nepalese Grands Crus

by François-Xavier Delmas

Andrew has dedicated himself to improving the quality of tea plants, and has taken inspiration from traditional skills of rolling leaves by hand. His production methods are artisanal and there is very little mechanisation, and above all he pays extreme attention to what he does.

He has also introduced a fair trade program with farmers who cultivate the land surrounding his plantation. The price of forthcoming harvests is fixed by contract. This means that small farmers have no need to fear any fall in the price of tea.

We owe it to Andrew that Nepal is now emerging as a great tea-producing country. His passion for his work and his ethical approach to those who work with him in the mountains certainly count a great deal.

Another pleasure I share with Andrew is walking, going on long treks in the tea mountains. And also his constant desire to progress, learn, discover and improve himself. He’s a planter who is as passionate as he is experienced.

“

Andrew Gardner is the planter who is most in love with his work that I’ve ever met. He can talk about it for hours, and he asks hundreds of questions too!

Andrew has worked on several plantations, in Darjeeling initially, then in Nepal at Jun Chiyabari and now at Guranse. You could say he was the first to make really good Nepalese teas.

7 •

METAL CANISTER “REFILL ATTITUDE” Ref.V416.

MAGNETIC CARD HOLDER “REFILL ATTITUDE” Ref.W001.

ZHONG Ref.N078.

What is the best way to store your tea?

What is the best way to store your tea?

Tea is delicate.

So, to preserve the rich aromas of a Grand Cru or new-season tea, it is best to follow a few rules concerning storage.

Rules for storing tea

How to store different types of tea

The first rule is the most important: tea must be kept

Storage times vary from one tea to another. In

in an opaque, airtight container. This is because air,

general, teas with floral, fresh vegetal and iodine notes

heat, light, humidity and smells can significantly

age less well than more opulent teas with woody,

affect it.

animal notes. Many black teas, as well as the most

In particular, tea is affected by air, notably oxygen: on

oxidised oolong, can often retain all their qualities for

contact with air, the leaf components (including the

years. Having said that, whatever their aromatic profile,

aromatic molecules) continue to oxidize and change.

all teas apart from Pu Erh ( dark teas ) will deteriorate

For this reason, it is best to limit tea’s contact with

with age. To appreciate the delicate, subtle aromatic

air as much as possible, and store it in an airtight

qualities of Grands Crus, particularly new-season

container. This will also serve to protect the tea from

pluckings, it is best to consume them within a few

humidity and ambient smells, which the leaves tend

months of harvest.

to absorb rapidly.

Tea is also affected by light and high temperatures: UV rays and heat dry out the leaves, which then lose their color and aroma. It also becomes impossible to infuse the tea correctly, and the leaves may crumble when handled.

The best solution for storing a tea that will be consumed quickly is to keep it in a canister. You can also store teas in their refill packs, as long as you make sure you get as much air out of the pack as possible before sealing it with the slide closure.

9 •

Grands Crus September 2015

POLISHED CHERRY TREE BARK MEASURING SPOON Ref.W703.

TAWARAMINE SHINCHA ICHIBANCHA 2015 (see opposite)

10 •

With this autumn selection we invite you to discover different tea harvests, colors and countries of origin.

First, the latest new-season green teas from China and Japan: these highly prized teas are, as every year, of an exceptional quality. Next, three wonderful summer pluckings from Nepal, revealing an incredible range of colors. Lastly, delicious and delicate Grands Crus second flush Darjeeling.

Grands Crus September 2015

The latest 2015 new-season teas

Exceptional Grand Cru PRE-QINGMING LONG JING - CHINA This is a unique plucking, harvested just before the Qingming (or Pure Brightness) festival, hence its name, Pre-Qingming the most renowned and popular Chinese green tea. Also known as “Dragon Well”, this new-season Long Jing has vegetal, nutty notes that are present right from the start and develop in a harmonious succession. Its thick texture and delicate astringency give the tea a lovely roundness and presence throughout the tasting. This Grand Cru transports us to the shores of West Lake. A fantastic quality for a legendary tea!

Ref.202A15.

TAWARAMINE SHINCHA - ICHIBANCHA 2015 - JAPAN From the high mountains of Tawaramine, this Grand Cru is without doubt one of the finest green teas produced in Shizuoka. Its incredibly delicate leaves make this Japanese tea truly exceptional. We love this Shincha for its incredibly smooth, creamy start as well as its fresher, livelier finish. A masterpiece!

Ref.3065A15.

TAMARYOKUCHA PREMIUM ICHIBANCHA 2015 - JAPAN This Tamaryokucha from Kyushu island has a particularly velvety texture, giving it a wonderful lingering presence.

The many vegetal notes, and iodine and marine accents, typical of this type of tea, take your senses on a magical journey.

Ref.3068A15.

Attention!

All the teas featured on these pages are Grands Crus harvested in very small quantities, available for a specific and limited time with no guarantee of future availability. Available until the batch has gone, these teas may suddenly go out of stock.

11 •

Grands Crus September 2015

Nepalese second flush MAI TIPS S.F.T.G.F.O.P. This black tea comes from the new plantation of Mai, supervised by Andrew Gardner, the talented manager at Guranse.

With its small, hand-rolled leaves and downy buds, this wonderful discovery has delicious woody and honey notes. The best introduction to Nepalese second flush teas.

Ref.0834A15.

WHITE SHANGRI-LA

ARYA GREEN BUDS

From the Shangri-La garden, this delicious white tea is very delicate. With large leaves and long downy buds, this Grand Cru is wonderfully creamy with notes of dried fruit, honey and vanilla. One of the finest white teas of the season!

Produced on the small plantation of Arya Tara in Ilam district, this summer green tea has powerful fresh aromas that develop delicious aniseed and liquorice notes.

Particularly vegetal, this Nepalese Grand Cru is ideal for the morning.

Ref.0837A15.

Ref.0833A15.

Darjeeling second flush SINGBULLI SUMMER FLOWER S.F.T.G.F.O.P. DJ 205 TEESTA VALLEY F.T.G.F.O.P. DJ 365

The Singbulli garden benefits from the ideal climate for growing tea, and offers very high quality teas in this season. We love the richness and complexity of this Darjeeling.

Its supple start and astringency give it plenty of presence and opulence. The notes are very well balanced, leaving a sublime floral bouquet in the mouth. This Grand cru will impress fans of second flush teas.

From Teesta Valley, this very fine tea displays all the hallmarks of a second flush Darjeeling. Recognisable from its woody, liquorice notes, this second flush is very smooth and sweet in the mouth. A pure delight.

Ref.0184A15.

Ref.0185A15.

NAMRING UPPER S.F.T.G.F.O.P. DJ 208 Situated at an altitude of more than 1,380 metres (4 528 feet) in Teesta Valley, Namring garden has once again delivered some very fine teas this year. This second-flush Grand Cru has wonderful woody, floral, fruity notes.

Its lively character and fullness in the mouth are delightfully elegant and smooth.

Ref.0183A15.

12 •

Our selection of Grands Crus is constantly evolving and expanding as we discover new teas and gardens on our travels.

To find out about our new arrivals as soon as possible, please sign up for our newsletter via our website palaisdesthes.com

Grands Crus September 2015

Tasting notes Guranse White Summer Origin: Nepal Color: white tea Water temperature: 80°C / 176°F Infusion time: 3’ - 4’ Quantity for the teapot: 6g for 30cl

Ref.0836A15.

The Guranse plantation is one of the highest in the world and enjoys an exceptional “terroir” and climate, which gives the tea its unique character. This incredible Grand Cru from the Delmas-Bari plot is an essential white tea for summer 2015!

Dry leaf: Appearance: lovely large, barely processed leaves with plenty of beautiful downy buds.

Color: a mixture of silver, green and copper.

Aromas: vegetal, zesty citrus, combined with sweet hints of vanilla, dried rose and fresh hay.

Infusion: Aromas: rich in sweet honey, floral notes (dried rose), waxed wood with hints of dried fruit (raisin, fig) and nuts (fresh hazelnut).

Liquor: Color: a golden yellow liquor.

Texture in the mouth: very supple and full to start. A touch of astringency develops, mingling with the thickness to create a velvety feel.

Flavor: sweet.

Aromas: the very sweet, elegant start offers pronounced floral notes (rose floral), pale honey, dried fruit (dried apricot, fig, raisin) with a hint of citrus (orange, bergamot) and vanilla. This is followed by more woody accents (waxed wood), and very sweet, milky nuts such as cashew.

Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: the aromas are delicate and harmonious, with dried fruit, honey, rose and nuts.

Fresher, liquorice notes then develop towards the finish.

Our opinion: with its supple yet full texture, Guranse White Summer is characterized by a delicate astringency that gives the tea a very velvety quality.

Made using François-Xavier Delmas’ favourite tea plants, this Grand Cru is recommended for connoisseurs of white teas, especially fans of our famous “Aiguilles d’Argent” (Silver Needles). A spectacular tea to taste as soon as possible!

13 •

NEW October 2015

herbal infusions

l’Herboriste collection

l’Herboriste, refinement and well-being Palais des Thés celebrates the traditional herbal infusion with l’Herboriste, its new collection of original infusions inspired by nature and plants that have always been renowned for their beneficial properties.

To offer evening infusions that are both soothing and pleasurable for the senses, l’Herboriste marries plants that have many benefits with natural and aromatic ingredients in fascinating blends.

With fruits such as orange, and spices like ginger and cinnamon, these refined compositions bring together the best that nature has to offer while maintaining the perfect balance between authenticity and originality.

The four caffeine-free l’Herboriste infusions offer a moment of well-being. Discover here:

A subtle infusion with relaxing properties Ref.DV990Z. 120g (4.2oz) canister

A warming and comforting infusion Ref.DV991Z. 100g (3.5oz) canister

A refined infusion with invigorating flavors Ref.DV992Z. 80g (2.8oz) canister

A delicate infusion with digestive properties Ref.DV993Z. 80g (2.8oz) canister

Also available as loose leaf or tea bags - 100g (3.5oz) pouch - 20 muslin bags

15 •

Time to shop Introduction to tasting A DAY IN TEAS 4 TEA MINIATURES

30g (1oz) Big Ben - 30g (1oz) Pu Erh Imperial 30g (1oz) Vive le Thé ! - 30g (1oz) Thé des Songes Ref.DBM07.

BANCHA JAPANESE PORCELAIN TEACUP

SENCHA JAPANESE PORCELAIN TEAPOT - 35cl

SINGLE-ESTATE TEA SET 10 TUBES OF TEA

TASTING SET

A cup made from Japanese fine porcelain with a beautiful flared shape.

Ref.N013.

16 •

A set containing 10 single-estate teas to introduce you to the diversity of teas from around the world .

Ref.DCT10D.

Simple and elegant, this teapot is made using one of the finest quality soft-paste porcelains from Japan.

Ref.M006.

Tasting set in white porcelain comprising a bowl and a small pot with serrated rim, with handle and lid. Ideal for preparing a Grand Cru. Ref.W906.

New items Gardens autumn /winter - Collection

NEW

SEPTEMBER

Discover our three new Garden recipes of incredibly flavorsome infusions.

Evoking enchanting gardens with unique characters, these healthy creations made from fruits, flowers and plants were designed to awaken our senses and emotions.

Completely free from caffeine and artificial flavorings, Gardens are delicious drinks that can be enjoyed by all the family as much as desired, throughout the day and evening.

2015

Discover flavors to bring the autumn alive:

forEst gardEn

fEstivE gardEn

QuEEn’s gardEn

A delicate blend of elderberry, raspberry and other berries that evokes a forest walk in early autumn.

A delicious blend of cocoa, orange and grapes, recalling the sweet flavors of the end-of-year festivities.

This blend of caramelized almonds and cinnamon revives memories of childhood flavors.

Ref.DV971Z. 150g (5.3oz) canister

Ref.DV972Z. 150g (5.3oz) canister

Ref.DV973Z. 150g (5.3oz) canister

Pure Indulgence - New flavor PURE INDULGENCE VANILLA This creation combines a superb white China tea with vanilla from Madagascar and Reunion Island, with smooth sweet flavors.

A refined blend that will impress and delight connoisseurs of the finest flavored teas.

Ref.DV728Z. 100g (3.5oz) canister

17 •

Recipe with tea

Chocolate fondant with Qimen SERVES 6 -

12.5cl milk 15g (0.53oz) Qimen Hao Ya 200g (7oz) chocolate in pieces 100g (3.5oz) sugar 75g (2.6oz) butter: 50g (1.8oz) of salted or lightly salted butter and 25g (0.9oz) of unsalted butter - 4 tbsp flour - 1/3 sachet of instant yeast - 4 eggs

QIMEN HAO YA is a fine black tea from Anhui province in China.

Ref.D224AM.

Infusion time: 4 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes at 180°C / 356°F Note: the cooking time varies according to the mould used, so keep an eye on the fondant in the oven to ensure the centre stays soft.

Preparation time: 30 minutes

18 •

Preheat the oven to 180°C / 356°F. Heat the milk until it starts to bubble.

Remove from the heat and infuse the tea in the milk for 4 minutes with the lid on the pan, then strain. Place the tea-flavored milk in a saucepan and melt the chocolate in it.

Cream the sugar and eggs until you obtain a smooth, pale mixture.

Add the flour and yeast, and mix. Pour in the melted butter and mix again, then add the milk with melted chocolate.

Beat until the mixture is smooth and bake for 20 minutes. .

Serving suggestion: for a treat, serve with custard or a red fruit coulis.

THE THÉOPHILE CARD The Théophile card gives you access to a number of benefits, available on our website, mail-order purchases and in Palais des Thés stores: - enjoy a 10% discount on all purchases for one year (except books: maximum legal discount of 5% applies), - take advantage of preferential rates for a number of special offers and receive exclusive gifts, - receive our Bruits de Palais newsletter, giving you a sneak preview into new teas and keeping you up-to-date with the latest tea-related news.

By spending €80 on loose tea in the year, you automatically renew the benefits of your card for the following year.

Important: each time you visit the shop, remember to present your Théophile Card so that your purchases can be recorded. For your orders on the Internet, register your card in your customer account. For your orders by post, write your card number on your order form. The Théophile Card cannot be used in the United States.

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STRASBOURG

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STRASBOURG

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C/C CORA

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IN THE WORLD:

GRENOBLE

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BRUXELLES

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LILLE

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BRUXELLES

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NAMUR

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NEW YORK

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NIMES

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PARIS 3

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NEW YORK

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PARIS 6

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OSLO

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PARIS 14

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OSLO

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PARIS 16

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TEL AVIV

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PARIS 17

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TEL AVIV

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REIMS

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TOKYO

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NEW

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NEW

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François-Xavier Delmas’ blog discoveringtea.com

Photo credits: Palais des Thés photographic background: François-Xavier Delmas. Except: ZORAN p2, p13, p14, p20 ; K. Manchego p2, p6, p11, p12, p15, p16, p17, p19 ; F. Lucano p2, p8; Igor Balasanov p1; F. Beloncle p10 ; Presswall p11, p12, p16 ; Dieterlen p18 - Design ZORAN. 100% vegetable inks.

herbal infusions

New collection October 2015

l’Herboriste,

refinement and well-being Enjoy the delicate pleasures of l’Herboriste collection, made with beneficial aromatic plants. These refined infusions offer moments of relaxation and well-being.

Bring a few subtle and soothing notes to your evenings with these four new infusions created by Palais des Thés.

Available as metal canister, loose leaf or tea bags.

Find the l’Herboriste collection on page 15.

palaisdesthes.com