T H E M AGA Z I N E F ROM PA L A I S DE S T H É S
Issue 85
Winter 2021/22
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EDITORIAL
A responsible year
François-Xavier Delmas Founder, Palais des Thés
At Palais des Thés, we believe the world is a better place when it is not solely driven by profits that benefit a minority at the expense of the majority. We believe that a business can make its employees happy, as well as its customers, suppliers and, in our case, tea producers. We believe that a business not only can but should benefit the wider community, and should place the greater good before individual interests. Palais des Thés doesn’t make profits for the sake of making profits. We operate within a context of profitable growth – growth that benefits everyone who contributes. Responsible, beneficial growth, not growth that exploits the planet but growth that takes into consideration the short, medium and long term. Growth that supports human development. Within this context, Palais des Thés set itself the challenge of fulfilling 12 commitments to its producers and employees, to the planet and to society. One of these is to source all its teas and herbal infusions from organic producers by 2025. Another is to support a different tea producer every year with the process of gaining Corporate Social Responsibility certification, to enable them to obtain a label for their factory and tea garden that is recognised in Europe. We also plan to double our training provision for all our employees, and to achieve carbon neutral and zero plastic status by 2025.
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Professional tasting session during which every aspect must be carefully controlled, from the quantity of tea leaves used to the water temperature and infusion time. Opposite
A tea picker in Assam (India).
We will keep you informed on our progress with these 12 commitments by bringing you regular updates here in Bruits de Palais and elsewhere. So 2022 will be a busy year as we work towards our ethical goals with enthusiasm and determination! These efforts are helping us to continue to improve the service we provide to our customers. It is our pleasure to guide you in your discovery of tea and to share our knowledge and passion with you. We will continue to bring you the finest teas and we will travel to remote corners of our planet to bring you exciting new teas. I and everyone at Palais des Thés would like to wish you a happy and fulfilling year ahead.
Long Jing is the bestknown and most popular green tea in China. Its shape resembles that of a young shoot and it is also described as a “Buddha’s eyelid”.
Issue 85 • Winter 2021-22
CONTENTS I N T E RV I E W
T R AV E L J O U R N A L
T E A C U LT U R E
Seeking out tea at its source
B y F rançoi s-Xavier D elma s
The secrets of white tea
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In search of the finest teas in the Caucasus
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A TE A SOMMELIER AND A “GR AND CRU ” B y S vetl ana D er iba sk o
Tasting Da Hong Pao
T E A I N T H E K I TC H E N
T E L L M E M O R E A B O U T…
Duck breast with Thé du Tigre
B y Bénédicte Bor toli
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Grands Crus – Palais des Thés’ premium teas 30
E XC E P T I O N A L T E A S
NEWS
B y Manuel a L er iche
All the Palais news
Thé du Tigre, the most powerful of smoked teas
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CONTRIBUTORS
Svetlana Deribasko
Manuela Leriche
Bénédicte Bortoli
A tea sommelier and the manager of the Saint-Laurent-du-Var store, Svetlana loves to share her taste for tea.
Manuela is an expert tea sommelier who enjoys teaching people about tea in an engaging and accessible manner.
Bénédicte is an editor who also writes illustrated books on food. She often writes for chefs.
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Seeking out tea at its source A passion and a mission: the role of tea researcher was created by Palais des Thés. After all, what is more natural, what is more obvious than going to find tea at its source? To its geographical source, the place where tea is planted, and to the human source, to meet the people who make the tea and have so much to share with us. In conversation with Bénédicte Bortoli
What are your motivations and expectations in your search for teas? Rarity? Exceptional quality? The people? François-Xavier Delmas With tea, as with wine, you always start with a clean slate. I’ve been travelling for more than three decades, and probably the most important thing for me is to support a virtuous circle. When I go to see farmers, I encourage them to make quality teas. The better their teas, the better resources they will have. And the higher the quality, the more they pay their employees. It stops them from replacing people with machines, it improves quality of life in the village. This virtuous circle is a way of supporting artisan skills. As well as the incredible teas we bring to light and the friendships we form, we have the opportunity to travel through extraordinary landscapes.
François-Xavier Delmas founded Palais des Thés 35 years ago and developed his own role, that of tea researcher. He quickly understood the need to go direct to the source. He learnt from the farmers and focused on sharing his knowledge by placing the producers at the heart of everything that Palais des Thés does.
Léo Perrin I’m mainly motivated by the adventure, by being in the moment. Sometimes you are treading where no one else has been before you, and you tell yourself that you might be the last person to walk on that land for a long time. I like the idea of searching for hidden leaves in the mountains!
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How do you plan your trips? FXD I’m always thinking about my travels, and the destinations gradually become identified. Because I communicate in many different forms (the blog, the podcasts, Bruits de Palais), I have to come back from my travels with some sort of material. I want to get a complete picture of a place: I meet the people; I tell a story in words and images. I see my role as being like an investigative journalist. I go to see the neighbouring village, I take an interest in people’s lives, I note down the specialities or oddities that I’ve eaten, how I reached my destination and so on. In my early days, I just had a few books, some maps and a vague contact on arrival. The first time I went to Darjeeling, when I got off the train, I just had a name… no phone number. If you want to make contacts and get to know people, you have to talk to the person who runs the village bar, and they will introduce you to someone who makes tea. You drink a beer, write down a name and set off to find them! That’s why it’s essential to travel alone. You have to approach people. These days, I get help organising my trips and with the internet you can quickly get a picture of even the most remote parts of the world. I spend less time trying to contact producers, but that doesn’t stop me from having to check the information. LP A large part of what I do is the groundwork. I’m the generation of new technologies, I can find contacts in just a few clicks, but that’s only a starting point. Someone might publish a photo of a plantation, I see a sign in the distance, a clue, and I locate the farm. Before I went to Tanzania, for example, I was in touch with a German woman on social media whose husband is a coffee producer who had decided to make tea and nothing else. When I arrive somewhere, I look around, I ask questions, I listen. If someone tells me about a producer, I go and see them. If there’s a tea research centre, I’ll
visit it. Most importantly, as soon as I get somewhere I find a place to hire a moped, which is essential so I can travel around the most rugged terrain!
Is there an ideal season to travel? FXD At first, I only travelled when they were harvesting the tea, because in the early years nobody knew me and the tea didn’t come to me just like that! So I had to go to Darjeeling, Japan and Taiwan when they were making tea. I bought a lot on location, as I didn’t get sent many samples in Paris. These days, we have a busy tasting programme. Now there’s always one of us two who has to be in Paris for the tastings, while the other one is away on a trip. I went to Darjeeling very often in all seasons. Perhaps my favourite time of year is just before or right at the start of the harvest. It’s really good to visit Japan in the first week of May, because that’s when they make the most extraordinary teas, but the farmer I go to see won’t have time for me. So I wouldn’t be able to ask him how he nourishes his soil, for example. It wouldn’t be the right time. If you visit producers when they have time for you, it’s an opportunity to talk with them, to take notes. There is no best period, but there are different times suitable for meeting people.
What are the conditions like when you taste teas on your travels? LP We can’t taste in the best conditions in situ. Sometimes we get given a few tea leaves in a glass of boiling water, we’re served tea with sugar, marmalade, milk, lemon… we’ve seen it all, we’ve drunk it all! Under these conditions, it’s difficult, even impossible, to judge the quality of a tea. But once we’re back in France, we’re very methodical about choosing teas. FXD On my travels, I don’t always taste the tea that was made that same day. I might taste teas that are not for sale or even that have already been sold. It also
INTERVIEW
gives me an overview of what the artisan producer is doing. It means that if it’s good quality, I could be interested in three or six months’ time. But the best place to choose teas is our tasting room. In the countries we visit, there are various reasons why it’s difficult to taste teas properly. When it’s hot, and you’re sweaty and eating different things, your body smells different. The surrounding smells are also different, so this inevitably changes your perceptions. Of course, the water is of very variable quality. So a tea that appeared sublime in situ can be a great disappointment when I return from my trip. I might fall in love with a tea, but then during our tastings I make sure I detach myself from that particular person, the memory of a landscape and so on. That’s why it’s important to taste blind, to hide the information, not to be influenced by a name who might be a producer friend, or a renowned region. When I taste teas for selection, I don’t prepare them myself. The same is true for Léo. The selection might include some very similar recently purchased teas, for example. We try to catch ourselves out.
Do you have any influence on the teas produced? FXD If a producer asks me, “What tea do you want me to make?”, I invariably answer that I don’t want a particular tea, just excellence and creativity. We are not Parker’s [the famous wine guide that has influenced French wine tastes]! I’m not going to start ordering woody teas just because I like them. Of course, I’m fond of certain teas and varieties, but if we were limited to my tastes it wouldn’t be good for customers! Yes, there are some teas that customers expect, the must-haves, but we also give ourselves carte blanche with premium teas. LP We are always being asked what French people like. As if we would ever make a tea for a market…
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How many premium teas do you need to taste to select one?
A large part of what I do is the groundwork.
FXD We taste about 50 teas to find one Léo Perrin that deserves the name Grand Cru [Palais des Thés’ name for its premium teas]. To limit the amount we get sent, we take care to specify well in advance what we expect from our various producers. For example, we tell them we’re only interested in whole-leaf teas, harvested by hand, with a few exceptions, such as in Japan, where some of their tools are highly sophisticated. We make sure they know that we are very demanding, perhaps the most demanding. Sometimes we don’t choose a tea from a producer we buy from every year, if it’s not up to standard. Farmers don’t necessarily get it immediately, we have to educate them, and assure them we have full confidence in them for the coming seasons. For our customers too, we have to explain things, tell them that they can definitely expect a certain tea, for example. We are always deeply committed to maintaining our quality standards. Quality is sacred. The tasting experience must be the best. By the same measure, we never buy a tea in advance. We buy based on the sample, after a tasting session. It’s a form of guarantee for our customers and for all lovers of premium teas. LP At the same time, the quantity of our Grands Crus has increased. We are less and less constrained in our selections because we know that Palais des Thés will be able to sell these exceptional teas. FXD When I started out, I wondered how I was going to be able to sell some teas because of their price. Now it’s possible, thanks to the growing number of enthusiasts who keep coming back. But we never
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Léo Perrin knew from a very young age that he wanted to combine his passion for travel with his love of tea. It was thanks to the Palais des Thés store in Rennes that he was able to meet FrançoisXavier Delmas and gain his trust by showing determination and commitment to becoming a tea researcher like him.
try to increase the size of a batch. We never ask a farmer to produce more than their capacity, as this would have an impact on the quality. What I find amazing is that customers can find a selection of our Grands Crus that varies from one store to another depending on the personality of the tea sommelier there who, like a wine merchant, stocks the teas they love.
Are there still “new” teas to discover or highlight? LP We know where tea grows but not necessarily if it’s good, or if producers want to make good tea. There are many emerging countries, which have only
started producing recently in the context of the history of tea. Tea is even made in France! But in some countries such as China, Korea and Japan, although they have been making tea for a very long time, there are still teas that very few people know about. They are consumed locally. If it is good quality, we can take a long- established tea beyond the confines of the village. In producing countries, the planters themselves are becoming more and more curious. If they know a good tea is being made in the neighbouring region or country, they want to make something good too. So there are long-established teas to reveal and new teas being made every day. We discover something on every trip! FXD I like to bring tea from other plantations to let farmers taste what others are making. Not for them to copy but to get them curious and to think more creatively. Often farmers don’t have access to what is being done beyond their mountain.
ENTRETIEN
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When I go to see farmers, I encourage them to make quality teas. François-Xavier Delmas
LP By showing them what others can do elsewhere that is excellent, we have the immense privilege of helping them create new teas. By forming close relations so that they trust us to sell their tea if it’s good quality, we can encourage this approach. In this sense, we can, in our own way, influence a tradition or a mode of production in a country or region. I remember a trip to Vietnam. I was just 19 years old. I was returning from China, where I had spent a month on a plantation learning how to make white tea. I tried to pass on this knowledge to them and today I am delighted to receive white teas from Vietnam.
FXD We’re not going to discover a tea or a plantation in the middle of the jungle, but in a way we’re always exploring when we try a farmer’s tea, even if we’ve been following their production for a long time. Like wine, it only takes the equivalent of the cellar master to change, and the difference in quality can be felt. And in some countries, such as Malawi or Mozambique, which have a tradition of industrial-scale tea manufacturing, one day a producer might decide to set up a very small production unit dedicated to quality teas. So it’s not that we’re going to discover that tea is produced in Malawi or Mozambique, but we can help to bring
Tasting session in Dharamsala (India) with manager Chettaranjan Rai.
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high-quality teas into being by encouraging such initiatives. Tea produced for tea bags costs just over €1 per kilo whereas a premium tea can fetch up to €500. There isn’t that level of disparity in an agricultural raw material in any other sector. So it’s positive and responsible to encourage good quality by paying the right price. This means it’s important to check out countries where we sense there is a spark of potential to make everyone happy: the farmer, us, and the customer.
Which initiatives have impressed you the most? A producer’s creativity and originality? Their dedication? Their personality? LP In “new” tea-producing countries, there is sometimes the temptation to copy what works elsewhere. But what we look for most of all are teas that are typical of their place of production, even if there is not yet a tradition of tea in the country or region. I’m thinking of Bente in Tanzania, who wanted to make her own green tea without knowing how to do it. One day, walking through a village, she entered a house and saw a woman putting leaves in a large earthenware pot directly over the fire and stirring them with a stick. She saw the connection with this way of “killing the green”, which is done using woks in China, for example, and bought two big pots from the village potter to try to make her own green tea. So she applied a Tanzanian technique to tea, demonstrating a lot of ingenuity, curiosity and personality.
How do you feel about visiting a place without knowing whether you’ll return with a selection of teas? LP I remember one of my first trips with Palais des Thés. It was to Korea, and I have never met as many producers as that time. But because of the political situation, none of them could sell me
tea. I returned with lots of samples but nothing to buy. I felt terrible. FrançoisXavier immediately reassured me that I hadn’t returned empty-handed, because it meant we knew that there was nothing to buy, and I had gained valuable knowledge of the local culture. So we always come back with something, even if it’s not samples. It could be knowledge or information that we can share. FXD In 2010 I went to Turkey and didn’t choose any teas. We had to go there to realise there was nothing there that met our quality standards! And perhaps in a few years, one of us will return from Turkey with some great teas.
What has this renewed quest for tea taught you the most? About tea? About yourself? LP Acceptance of the impermanence of things. Learning to accept that what is there today will not necessarily be there tomorrow. The life of a tea researcher is similar to the Japanese concept of ikigai as we interpret it in the West: a combination of mission, passion, profession and vocation. FXD We meet people of all skin colours and all religions, and we experience intense emotions. In this quest for tea, I have also realised that I’m particularly fond of people from the mountains, and I’ve learnt a lot from the slow pace that tea teaches us. Tea makes you appreciate people.
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TR AVEL JOURNAL
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In search of the finest teas in the Caucasus After a sudden halt in production, Georgia is starting to manufacture quality teas. I set out from Tbilissi for the Black Sea with Léo and Frédéric to meet the small producers By François-Xavier Delmas of this charming country.
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’d already seen the Black Sea. I had admired it from the hilltops of Rize ten years ago when I set out to find some quality tea in Turkey. I returned, not disappointed, as I met some wonderful people, but empty-handed, with not even one sample of good tea. There, everything is harvested with shears, which is a major obstacle in producing quality tea.
Getting lost in Tbilisi This time I was headed for Georgia, starting with Tbilisi. The capital lies in the far east of the country. Anyone visiting for the first time would want to spend several days wandering through the old streets and up to the cliffs that overlook the Kura river. For the more adventurous, just a few kilometres from the city you can find yourself on a hilltop enjoying a breathtaking view of Tbilisi and the surrounding mountains, dotted with monasteries. It’s heavenly! In the distance are the arid mountains, grazed by a few herds of cattle, and beyond them lie Armenia or Azerbaijan, depending on whether you are looking south or east. To find tea, you need to cross the country to the Black Sea, and exchange drought for water and rare grass for lush vegetation.
From Imereti to Guria
A picker harvesting tea leaves in the Ozurgeti region in the far west of Georgia.
Tea arrived in Georgia in the mid-19th century. The country won a gold medal for its tea at the 1900 Paris Exposition. World War I brought a sudden halt to production due to the plantations’ proximity to the front line. A few years later, after the Red Army’s annexation of the country, the Soviets made Georgia the main tea production centre for the entire USSR. It was more about quantity than quality. After half a century, with the end of the Empire, the Soviets abandoned the tea fields and factories. Then, in 2016, with the aim of combating the rural exodus among other things, the Georgian government put tea growing back on the agenda. Czechs and Estonians as well as Georgians responded to the call and armed themselves with brush
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Nowhere else have I met people who give you such a warm welcome as in Georgia.
cutters and patience: over the previous 15 years, the tea plants had become smothered in a tangle of brambles and bracken that had to be cleared in order to access the precious leaves. It was a mammoth task, because at these latitudes, bracken can grow back in just two weeks. To reach the tea-producing regions of Imereti and Guria, you have to cross the country from east to west. A straight and deserted highway leads to a road that winds along the bottom of a valley, following the most beautiful river. Alas, Chinese workers – thanks to globalisation! – are now busy building bridges and digging out tunnels. They are ripping through a range of mountains so that road users will save an hour or two on the same route.
Georgian hospitality In my job I have become accustomed to being served tea as soon as I arrive at a plantation. In Georgia, this is not the case. When you arrive somewhere you are offered food, likely khachapuri, a delicious cheese-flavoured bread, washed down with tarragon-scented lemonade. You are offered a huge portion of this flattish bread and you’ll have barely finished your last mouthful before your host presses another piece upon you. Tea is for later, when everyone is full. In Georgia, hospitality is a serious matter. While we eat, we hear that there are as many varieties of tea as there are tea plants, in a country where plants grow from seeds that have come from China, India and Japan. When I say “we”, I mean Léo, Frédéric and me. Although I travel alone most of the time, I wouldn’t want to deprive myself of the pleasure of travelling with such good companions as Léo, my assistant tea researcher who journeys to different regions in search of rare teas, and Frédéric, who is usually busy being a company manager rather than spending time in the fields, who I brought along to learn about this vital aspect of the business.
Opportunity for organic Let’s return to our tea plants. Abandoned land has good potential for Camellia sinensis as it’s an opportunity for organic farming. An abandoned plantation means an absence of pesticides. No doubt in years to come, each of these plantations one after the other will receive the AB logo which, in France, certifies the most respectful agricultural practices on the planet. What type of tea is found in Georgia? Black teas, green teas and more. These new explorers, pioneers at heart, will experiment with all the possible colours of tea. There is someone trying to produce an oolong, someone else making white tea, and another producer developing dark tea. The batches are very small, so there’s no point asking Baaka, Nikka, Hannes or Grigol to make the same tea twice. It is up to the tea enthusiast to adapt, not the producer. So much the better, in fact, as it gives us more opportunities to discover different teas. While travelling between producers, as you round a bend in the road, it is not uncommon to happen upon a huge factory and half-abandoned rows of drab houses, relics of the Soviet era and a time when industrial tea
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16 Since 2016, tea growing has been encouraged by the Georgian government, which supports small producers making quality tea.
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François-Xavier Delmas talks about the quality of the harvest with a Georgian producer.
production provided a living for whole communities. We stop to take a few photos while long-haired kids watch on, before getting back on the road.
Getting lost again Travelling also involves getting lost, taking a different turning, and it would be a pity not to continue on to the Black Sea to see what it looks like from that coast. About 30 miles from the country’s westernmost plantations stands the city of Batumi, with its luxury hotels, skyscrapers, casinos and big wheel. There’s just time for a quick dip in the sea and an ice cream, and then we’re off again. I prefer the beauty and authenticity of the green hills to these tourists out on the town and this city with a bit too much artifice. I’m drawn to the simple ways of those who cultivate the land. Nowhere else have I met people who give you such a warm welcome as in Georgia. Nowhere have I met people who want to convince you that you are giving them so much just by coming to visit them, when it is they who are giving you everything – their smile, their kindness, their delicious tea and their famous khachapuri washed down with the wine of which they are so proud. One last bite before hitting the road that passes through Ozurgeti and Kutaisi before reaching Tbilisi. It will take five hours to get back to the capital, after hesitating at a signpost in the middle of nowhere that points left to Tbilisi and right to Yerevan, then Tehran, only a thousand miles away. We say those names out loud and dream of other journeys, other discoveries. Ah, the hard life of a tea researcher!
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In Georgia, it takes just two weeks for tea bushes to disappear under a dense growth of bracken and brambles, meaning small producers have to clear the land frequently.
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CARNET DE VOYAGE
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The secrets of white tea Today, white tea is recognised as one of the finest and most refined teas. Of all the tea colours, it is the closest to the leaf in its natural state. It undergoes the simplest and the most delicate processing. It is a mysterious tea with great complexity.
Tea harvesting in Fujian (China). Fujian is the biggest tea-producing region and also the province that makes the widest variety of teas. It produces legendary white teas.
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TE A CULTURE
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hite tea originated in south-eastern China in the coastal region of Fujian. Under the Ming Dynasty, it was called “tribute” tea because producers used it to pay their contributions to the emperor. The latter would receive the finest, most precious teas from each province. For centuries, white tea was reserved for the highest-ranking dignitaries, and it was a long time before it became available to a wider public. White tea was originally made from a particular tea variety, Da Bai (Large White). This large-leaf tea plant, native to Fujian, later crossed the borders to cover the hillsides of Vietnam and Thailand with its buds. Today, white tea can also be made from other cultivars. In Nepal and Darjeeling, for example, black and white teas are made from the leaves of the same plants. The difference between the two tea colours comes from the way they are processed. The bud is essential in the production of white tea.
The delicate art of making white tea There are two main types of white tea: Yin Zhen (literally, Silver Needles), comprising only the long silvery buds, and Bai Mu Dan (White Peony), consisting of the stem, the bud and two, sometimes three or four, leaves. Harvesting takes place in the spring, when the bud is about to become a leaf. Making white tea involves just two stages, but they require the utmost attention. Withering. Withering the leaves, often on sloped racks, is a long process if it takes place outside. It is sometimes done indoors. It is a difficult operation to control in terms of humidity and heat. The planter’s skill lies in anticipating the weather conditions and choosing the right moment to harvest. Drying. At the end of the withering process, the leaves have just five to seven percent moisture remaining. But at this time of year, the white tea-producing regions have a humid atmosphere, so that can rise to 15 percent in a matter of moments. If so, the leaves need even longer to dry. The tea is then sorted by hand before it is packaged. The buds and leaves are not rolled or crushed. This preserves their shape and their downy surface, giving them their natural appearance.
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hand-picked buds are required to produce one kilo of Yin Zhen (the most famous white tea, known as Silver Needles).
TRAVEL THE WORLD WITH WHITE TEA
Today, you can find white tea anywhere in the world, from Colombia to Malawi, from Papua New Guinea to the fields of France! Its minimal processing appeals to producers due to its apparent simplicity and has led to some very delicious experimental teas. In Malawi, the production of white tea is inspired by the processing of Chinese Bai Mu Dan tea, paired with the specific characteristics of this African country. In Papua New Guinea, local producers are revisiting Silver Needles to make high-quality white teas. It is a way to taste the specific characteristics of each country and to discover amazing new teas that will delight adventurous tea lovers.
Traditionally, white tea is withered outdoors, like here, on bamboo racks that have been turned to face the sun.
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CULTURE THÉ
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TE A CULTURE
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A picker harvesting the leaves of a wild tea tree. Western Yunnan, close to the border with Myanmar.
How to drink white tea White tea is an exceptional tea that offers an array of subtle and delicate aromas and flavours. It can, however, be disappointing if it is not prepared correctly, or if you are not familiar with white teas. To learn about its nuances and appreciate its delicate qualities, it is good to start with teas that are easy to brew, then move on to more complex teas that require greater care. For example, a Chinese white tea such as a Bai Mu Dan* is a very good introduction to white teas. This type of tea has only been around since 1922, when producers started processing the first two or three leaves picked with the bud. Bai Mu Dan is very popular among Chinese consumers as it is a great thirst-quencher. This tea is best prepared in a gaiwan. This traditional vessel should be half filled with leaves and water cooled to 70°C. After a ten-second infusion, this first water is discarded and followed by short infusions of a few dozen seconds, which are gradually lengthened. Its woody aromas are reminiscent of ripe autumn nuts like hazelnut and chestnut. It is a tea that can be drunk throughout the day. For the more discerning palate, we recommend a prestigious white tea that is one of the most sought-after on the planet, the sublime Yin Zhen Céleste**. The slender, evenly formed buds are hand-picked and slowly withered for several days before being delicately dried. It is often considered one of the most expensive teas in the world because of the skill and dexterity involved in harvesting it as well as its delicate, subtle aromas. This sublime tea reveals notes of fresh rose, vanilla and green grape, sustained by a silky, supple texture. This is another tea best brewed in a gaiwan, filled one third with leaves which should be given short, repeated infusions of about 15 seconds. Different white teas come and go at Palais des Thés throughout the year, as we select new and favourite teas. From Malawi’s white teas with notes of dried fruits and artichoke to rare premium teas from Indonesia, which develop hints of vanilla and honey and a round, luscious texture, there is a varied choice, but many of these teas are rare and of limited availability. Each new batch is eagerly anticipated and fulfils all expectations.
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LISTENING TO WHITE TEA To learn more about white tea, check out our podcast, “Un thé, un voyage” (in French). In this episode, François-Xavier takes Sidonie on a journey to discover the legends and secrets of making white tea. They travel virtually through Indonesia, Vietnam and China on a journey to captivate all the senses. Tea enthusiasts will enjoy listening to the discussion, which offers insights into the appreciation and tasting of this very subtle category of tea. * Bai Mu Dan → Ref. 194 – €11 for 100g ** Yin Zhen Céleste → Ref. 2071 – €42 for 50g
A TE A SOMMELIER AND A “GR AND CRU ”
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Tasting Da Hong Pao Harvested in the north of the Wuyi Mountains in Fujian Province, China, Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) is a roasted, medium-oxidised oolong. Savour the complex aromas By Svetlana Deribasko of this wonderful premium tea.
Svetlana Deribasko joined Palais des Thés in 2010, first in the Nice store before becoming the manager of the SaintLaurent-du-Var store in 2017. A tea sommelier since 2018, Svetlana loves oolongs and Darjeelings and enjoys assisting customers in tea tastings.
T 1. Prepare and measure out the tea
his morning, a legendary Chinese tea awaits me, carefully but generously dosed (about 10g for 13 cl of water) [1], then deposited in my Yi Xing teapot. Da Hong Pao is the most famous Yancha (Rock tea). It is considered to be one of the “four great tea varieties”, or Si Da Ming Cong. This precious tea comes from tea bushes that date back to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and grows in a very small area in the Wuyi mountains. With only one harvest a year, Da Hong Pao has become famous. The leaves are processed in up to 14 stages, with several firings that give it a unique aromatic profile. Upholding Chinese traditions
2. Heat and rinse the Yi Xing teapot
Before I start preparing accessories, which are essential to allow the tea to develop fully, I like to have a really good look at the leaves. They tell such amazing stories. The dry leaves, which
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tasting has been elegantly roasted, so the grilled scents are not overwhelming and instead sustain the smooth floral and sweet qualities of the Qi Dan cultivar. Medium-oxidised oolongs offer an infinite palette of notes. Every time I taste a Yancha, I remember my very first Da Hong Pao. Experiencing such unique flavours left such an impression on me. It has the same effect on me today, and I think of the talented artisans who have allowed me to enjoy this exquisite tea this morning [4].
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3. Pour the first infusion into the tea pitcher
have a gently crumpled appearance, have colours ranging from dark green to various browns, a result of its partial oxidation and roasting. Following the Gong Fu Cha method, I pour the water into the teapot to warm and rinse it [2]. The earthenware teapot I have chosen helps to retain the heat while preserving the flavours and aromas and reducing the tannins. It brings out the best in oolongs. Then I rinse the tea leaves. I wet them carefully and watch them gleam as they gradually unfurl before my eyes. After tipping the rinsing water out into the boat, or tray, the leaves are
ready to be infused and tasted. I pour fresh water into the teapot for an initial infusion of about 15 seconds to avoid damaging the leaves. Don’t be surprised if Da Hong Pao gives different results every time you drink it.
Drinking a legendary tea The deep golden yellow hue and the texture of the liquor [3], which gives the tea its character and structure, evolve with repeated infusions. In the mouth, it reveals a succession of notes, from burnt, fruity (cooked fruits) and floral to vegetal, vanilla and mineral. The Da Hong Pao I’m
4. Savour the tea
Da Hong Pao ORGANIC CULTIVAR Qi Dan Origin Wuyi Mountains
(China, Fujian)
Harvested 2020 Preparation advice
→ Gong Fu Cha method Successive infusions of 15 to 40 seconds, almost as many times as you like! Food pairing
A mature comté → Ref. 2782 – €42.50 per 50g
TE A IN THE KITCHEN
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Duck breast with Thé du Tigre Some teas are powerful enough that they can be used to flavour meat by adding them while cooking. The dish will absorb the aromas and become subtly scented.
Serves 4
1.
Use a knife to score the duck skin in a diamond pattern.
2.
Pack the tea leaves into the incisions and wrap each breast tightly in clingfilm. Place in the fridge for at least 12 hours so that the duck fat becomes permeated with the aromas of this smoked tea.
3.
Remove the clingfilm from the duck breasts. Remove any excess tea leaves. Season both sides of the breasts with salt and pepper.
4.
Cook the breasts in a well-heated frying pan with no added fat, first on the skin side for 7 minutes, then on the flesh side for another 7 minutes.
5.
Serve the crispy duck breasts.
2 duck breasts 4 tbsp Thé du Tigre Salt, pepper
Serving suggestion Accompany the duck with sautéed potatoes or a smooth mash.
THÉ DU TIGRE → Ref. 271 − €9.50 per 100g
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TELL ME MORE ABOUT…
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Grands Crus : Palais des Thés’ premium teas Like wine, tea has its premium teas (Palais des Thés calls them Grands Crus), which reflect the expertise and talent of the passionate artisans who produce them. They promise to take your senses on a journey that is as subtle as it is exceptional. By Bénédicte Bortoli
A basket of freshly picked leaves, ready to be processed.
Like a cellar master at a vineyard , the producer of a premium tea brings out the best of the leaves by responding to the qualities of each harvest and processing the leaves according to the specific characteristics and style they want from the tea. Expertise and craftsmanship While a tea takes its personality from the tea plant the leaves came from as well as t he soil it grew in a nd t he climate that inf luenced it, it gains its exceptional qualities from the producer’s choices at the time of harvesting and
Making connections
t hroug h a ll t he processing stages. No two har vests are alike and the processing stages var y each time, creating infinite possibilities for these master artisans who weave all these elements together with a touch of a lchemy. Some producers continue regional or local artisan traditions, often passed down from generation to generation, while others take a more creative, adventurous approach, stepping away from heritage to experiment with new cultivars or invent new ways of processing the leaves by varying the intensity of withering, rolling, oxidation and drying.
In regions renowned for their premium teas, Palais des Thés’ tea researchers (also see pages 6-11) meet regularly with artisans to ensure the quality of their teas is maintained. As well as being an opportunity to select teas, which is so important for producers, it is also an essential and valuable moment for discussion. It’s a time for visiting the plantation, tasting some teas and spending an evening together, perhaps sharing a meal. On more remote plantations or those with potential for high quality, which are sometimes difficult to get to, it is about bringing all the senses into play, making repeated visits, giving wise and benevolent advice, and forming close bonds that give rise to the development of a premium tea. A premium tea must be earned. You must seek them out, get off the beaten track, let yourself be surprised. And let’s not forget that without these landscapes and these people we would not have the privilege of tasting them.
Time to choose Once teas have been selected in situ, a large quantity of samples from the plantations
R ACONTE Z-MOI
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Savouring a Grand Cru using the Gong Fu Cha method (which means something like “brewing tea with discipline and skill”)
we have visited are submitted to our tea researchers’ ex per t ta st ing pa lates. We never know whether they will be up to scratch or a disappointment. But our tea m’s u nquenchable ent hu sia sm means that, after the necessary food safety checks, we can bring you some of the best teas in the world. To choose one or two Grands Crus, we
need to taste dozens and dozens of teas, sometimes several times, and always blind, so as not to be inf luenced by the prestige of a name or a f r iend sh ip w it h a fa r mer.
Rare and limited-edition teas At the heart of this quest for rare and seasonal Grands Crus is
Tasting a Grand Cru A Grand Cru is a well-balanced tea with superlative flavour qualities. To appreciate these subtleties, we must take into consideration the way in which it is traditionally consumed. For example, in China and Taiwan, oolongs are prepared using the Gong Fu Cha method, while Chinese green teas are brewed in a zhong, and Japanese teas in a kyusu. For Grands Crus from countries that have been under British influence, like India and Nepal, the Western-style teapot is the ideal way to prepare them. Aside from these cultural differences, a small volume of water is best to bring out all the aromas and flavours of a fine quality tea.
the question of whether these teas will remain exceptional from year to year. There is no guarantee that a farmer, however famous and talented, will be able to offer a tea of the highest quality every season. It is often our tea sommeliers who take the time to explain in our stores why your favourite premium teas, by their very nature rare and produced in small quantities, are often only available at a specific time, with no guarantee of an ongoing supply, and that they can therefore disappear as soon as they have arrived. Palais des Thés’ Grands Crus are the perfect illustration of how the world of tea invites us to appreciate a very specific relationship with time.
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REMARK ABLE TE A
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Thé du Tigre, the most powerful of smoked teas Thé du Tigre is a smoked black tea from Taiwan. Its production has always been a jealously guarded secret. Today, this expertise is all the more valuable because it is difficult to export smoked tea, owing to new and extremely restrictive European standards. Within this changing context, By Manuela Leriche Thé du Tigre remains unchanged. Smoked tea is said to have been first created by happenstance in Fujian province. As night fell, a Chinese army general reportedly requisitioned a warehouse owned by a tea producer to give his soldiers shelter for the night. The place was being used to dry still-wet tea leaves, so the planter, in panic, decided to light a spruce fire to speed up the drying process. And that is how smoked tea was invented! The entire batch of tea is said to have been sold to an English merchant who, once back in Europe, soon made it one of Britain’s favourite teas.
Taming the fire Still, this tea that is well known in the West has become increasingly rare: many seek it out but few are able to get their hands on it. In recent years, the European Union has drastically reduced the accepted content of anthraquinone, a molecule that is naturally released during combustion. Today, this new standard is a challenge, because it is almost impossible for producers to control the quantity of it in their tea. Only a few have succeeded in controlling the
level of smoke to bring tea lovers the most powerful smoked teas. Of these, Thé du Tigre is currently one of the few to meet the European standard.
Powerful flavours Thé du Tigre grows deep in the silent forests of Taiwan. Smoked with pine wood according to the traditional lapsang souchong method, it offers a rich and remarkable variety of aromas. This tiger reveals its personality in the cup: powerful smoky notes to start, sustaining woody aromas and intense spicy notes. It has an authoritative presence and powerful vigour on the nose, making way for a graceful suppleness with a soft, smooth texture that prepares the way for the flavours to come. With barely any astringency, no bitterness, extremely aromatic, developing peppery notes, this low-caffeine tea is known to awaken the appetite!
Understanding food pairings Thé du Tigre is ideal served with an English brunch on a
winter morning. Its smokiness lingers in the mouth, making a delicious accompaniment to scrambled eggs or toast. More surprisingly, it works well with a roquefort. The heat of the tea quickly melts the cheese in the mouth, and the woody, animal, smoky and milky notes mingle and interact in astonishing harmony. An indulgent tasting to savour by an open fire.
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33 Smoked tea is a black tea that is traditionally dried over a wood fire to absorb the flavour of the smoke.
What is anthraquinone? To learn more about smoked tea, check out our podcast, “Un thé, un voyage”, which has an episode dedicated to it (in French).
Thé du Tigre → Ref. 271 − €9.50 per 100g
Anthraquinone is a molecule that forms during the combustion process, and is a natural part of the process of making smoked tea, during the smoking stage. Since 2015, European regulation has become tighter in detecting it, in the form of pesticide residues, in foodstuffs. But anthraquinone in tea is related to combustion, not to the use of pesticides in farming. However, the presence of this molecule is very difficult to control for producers, who cannot clearly identify the causes and timing of its occurrence. Today, because the EU’s maximum threshold is very low (0.020 mg per kg of tea), the products do not pose a health problem, but they do pose a real supply challenge.
NEWS
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A joyful moment at the Tea School during the first introductory workshop
Sharing our passion Founded in 1999 by François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet, the Tea School offers outstanding courses that reveal the secrets of this age-old beverage and the art of tea tasting. As part of its community outreach programme, Palais des Thés takes its Tea School to hospitals, schools and prisons to share its expertise during introductory workshops. The first of these was held on 25 October, in partnership with the “Souffle de Violette” initiative run by the Ereel Fund. Twelve women with cancer joined us for a two-hour session exploring the five senses and the five tea colours. Our team also visited Sainte-Périne Hospital in Paris
in early December for a special tasting session with caregivers and patients. Other workshops are planned for early next year. At Palais des Thés, we place great importance on nourishing human relations and we love to share our passion for tea with others.
The Tea School For more than 20 years, the Tea School has been teaching those new to tea as well as connoisseurs through enjoyable workshops that appeal to all the senses and help people expand their knowledge and experience of tea. Participants can enjoy hands-on exploration of subjects such as tea tasting, tea and food pairings and the Cha No Yu ceremony. The full programme can be found at ecoleduthe.com.
NEWS
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Palais news PARTNERSHIP
Jam flavoured with tea Palais des Thés and La Chambre aux Confitures have combined their expertise to create a gourmet collection of tea-flavoured jams. Two new jam recipes made with tea were conceived and developed by La Chambre aux Confitures in collaboration with Palais des Thés. This gastronomic partnership has led to the creation of two delicious and flavoursome jams that will delight foodies and tea-lovers alike.
Cherry and Thé du Hammam Jam → Ref. F706 − €9.50 for a 200g pot
White Peach and Grand Yunnan Impérial Jam → Ref. F707 − €9.50 for a 200g pot
These unique jams can be purchased in Palais des Thés stores and from our website. The collection of tea-flavoured jams is available in La Chambre aux Confitures stores.
STORES
Three new stores where we can share our passion for tea with you We are delighted to welcome you to three new Palais des Thés stores. Come and see us and let us guide you through our selection of 250 teas and herbal infusions.
Dijon 24, rue de la Liberté 21000 Dijon Paris 74, rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Paris Le Havre 22, rue Casimir-Perier 76600 Le Havre
NEW
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A journey for the senses THE TEA LIBRARY Flavoured teas → Ref. DCT10F – €39.90
The Mini Tea Library – Five tasting tubes to try → Ref. DCT05D – €19.90
L’HERBORISTE No 63 Organic thyme, mandarin, rosemary → Ref. 9080 – €9.50 per 100g
L’HERBORISTE Organic chamomile → Ref. 9070 – €11 for 100g
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Single estate teas Ten tasting tubes → Ref. DCT10E – €39.90
ESSENTIAL TEAS Six of the most popular teas by Palais des Thés → Ref. DCC11 – €29
GRANDS CRUS Purple tea from Mang Bai → Ref. 2248 – €22 per 100g
Bai Cha Long Zhu → Ref. 2073 – €29 per 100g
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Find us at
palaisdesthes
Bruits de Palais A publication from Palais des Thés Contributors to this issue:
Laetitia Portois (Tea culture), Sidonie Nalis (design: New) Editorial team
Bénédicte Bortoli, Chloé Douzal, Mathias Minet Art direction and layout
Laurent Pinon and Aurore Jannin for Prototype Illustrations
Stéphane Humbert-Basset English translation
Marta Scott Proofreading
Nicole Foster Printing
Printed in January 2022 by Graphius (Belgium) Imaging & retouching services
Key Graphic
Palais des Thés
All translation, adaptation and reproduction rights in any form are reserved for all countries. Photo credits
Palais des Thés photo library – François-Xavier Delmas: cover, p. 2, 4, 10, 12, 16-17, 18, 19, 20-21, 23, 24, 30, 31, 32-33, 39 • Alexandre Denni: p. 6 • Léo Perrin: p. 9 • Guillaume Czerw: p. 26-27, 29, 36-37 • Kenyon Manchego: p. 28 • Nathalie Limal-Lê: p. 34 • Thierry Malty: p. 35 (jams) • Olivier Zorer: p. 35 (store) Customer service
+33 (0)1 43 56 90 90 Cost of a local call (in France) Monday to Saturday 9am-6pm
Corporate gifts
+33 (0)1 73 72 51 47 Cost of a local call (in France) Monday to Friday 9am-6pm
“The tea smoke and the willow together trembling”
4,90 €
Kobaya sh i Issa Japanese haiku poet (1763-1828)
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