Gong Fu Cha and Oolong: an intertuıined history Latte: the delicious marriage of tea and milk
bruits de palais “Every culture is born of blending, encounters, and clashes.” Octavio Paz
77
January 2019 | n°
Editorial
Constant exploration Palais des Thés hones its expertise through an ongoing quest not only to discover the best teas, but also to explore every possible method of preparing tea. Whether familiar or exotic, from near or far, these techniques bring new associations and draw upon millennia-old traditions. In this issue, we share the ancient art of Gong Fu Cha and relate its historical ties with Oolong. And then, since we are equally interested in modern takes on tea, we consider the Latte phenomenon, which blends milk and tea to reveal unexpected new flavours. We aspire to connect modern consumers with time-honoured traditions, always with the aim of helping you savour the best of tea. The Palais des Thés team
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Contents
Page 12 GR AN DS CRUS January 2019 selection
Page 4 LAT TE: the delicious marriage of tea and milk
Page 16 N EWS
Page 8 G ONG FU CHA AN D O OLONG: an intertwined history
Page 18 BR ING TEA TO THE TABLE ! La Maison du Chocolat comes to Tea School
B RU I T S D E PA L A I S
Photo credits: Palais des Thés photo library: François-Xavier Delmas. Except: Oriento p. 1, p. 10; Getty images p. 1; Frédéric Lucano p. 2; Adobe stock p. 3, p. 4, p. 6, p. 8; Alexandre Denni p. 3, p. 18; Charly Poupin p. 3, p. 12; Kenyon Manchego p. 3, p. 13 to p. 17, p. 19; Aurélie Ribeiro p. 7. Design and production: Mazarine Image Design. Bruits de Palais is printed on paper from sustainably managed forests. Certified chlorine-free processing. 100% plant-based inks. If you no longer wish to receive mail from Palais des Thés, please contact Customer Service at +33 (0)1 43 56 90 90.
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Latte special issue
Latte: the delicious marriage of tea and milk The tea latte, a scrumptious blend of hot tea and milk, has become one of the trendiest ways to drink tea in recent years. What traditions inspired this phenomenon, and what are the secrets to succeeding with this oft-criticized pairing? Palais des Thés invites you to discover the age-old love story between tea and milk—and taste the results!
THE OR IGINS OF LAT TE During the Han dynasty in China (206 BC – 220 AD), tea was compressed and boiled. Various ingredients such as orange peel and salt were added, making it more like a soup than a fine beverage for sipping. Beginning in the 7th century, the nomadic peoples of the surrounding countries encountered the drink. Because their traditional diet was made up mainly of dairy products, however, they began drinking tea with milk or butter: in Mongolia it was mixed with camel milk, in Tibet with yak’s milk, and in Bhutan and Nepal with salt and butter. Some combinations provided nutrition that was essential to life at high altitudes. Po Cha, for example, is a traditional Tibetan drink that is halfway between a soup and a hot beverage, calling for dark tea (Pu Erh), milk, butter and salt. Meanwhile, the custom of adding other ingredients to tea fell out of favour in China. In the 8th century, in his work Cha Jing (“The Classic of Tea”), Lu Yu stipulated that tea should be drunk plain, or with a bit of salt. Tea mixed with butter and milk did not appear in China until the 13th century, when the Middle Kingdom was invaded and conquered by the Mongols.
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Po Cha in Tibet
Preparation of Masala Chai in India
In India, it is Chai that celebrates the marriage of tea and milk. In the 19th century, while the British were developing tea culture there, Indians themselves were drinking a milk-based beverage flavoured with sugar and masala (a spice blend). At the time, fear of being poisoned by the British invaders won out over the temptation to try tea. After relations improved, however, the Indians began adding tea leaves to their traditional beverage, and the national drink of India was born: Masala Chai. In Europe, before the advent of tea, the British enjoyed sweet, milky beverages as early as the 17th century. Once they began drinking tea and importing it in everincreasing quantities, it was only natural that they would add sugar and milk to the steeped drink. Tea at the time was mediocre in quality, and the sweetness of milk was a welcome antidote to its bitterness. In addition to
TEA AN D MILK: HER E SY ?
improving the flavour, milk also offered another, more
For 30 years, you have heard Palais des Thés decry milk
practical benefit: China was exporting tea services to
as one of the worst enemies of tea. And indeed, there are
the Old Continent made of fine “eggshell” porcelain.
many times when milk absolutely should be avoided. For
This extremely fragile material could not withstand
example, its addition can mask the aromatic complexity
boiling water, and the tea cups would explode upon
of a tea and alter its texture. A white tea or a Darjeeling
contact—unless some milk was poured in right before
first flush would lose many of its organoleptic properties
the hot water. Over time, many variations on the British
upon contact with milk. In other cases, it could simply
tradition of tea with milk were developed, such as
be an atrocious combination: some Japanese green teas,
Cambric Tea (United States), London Fog (Canada), Nai Cha
including Sencha, have marine notes that would taste
(Hong Kong), and Teh Tarik4 (Malaysia and Singapore).
truly unpleasant when paired with milk.
1
2
3
Some teas lend themselves readily to a splash of milk, however. These generally have a pronounced personality
What about Matcha? While the Matcha Latte is a modern drink that has earned a place in the pantheon of Lattes, it is not a traditional Japanese preparation. Matcha, the tea used in the Cha No Yu ceremony, was only recently adopted by the culinary world and paired with milk, a natural combination that resulted in the current obsession.
of their own, such as intense aromatic notes and a rich texture. If the tea can hold its own against milk, the combination can lead to some happy surprises. Adding milk to tea can unexpectedly reveal new flavours, new notes, or new textures and constitute a worthy tasting experience in itself. The art is in choosing the right tea to pair with milk.
(1) Cambric Tea, very popular in the United States in the late 19th century, was a hot beverage traditionally served to children or the elderly and made of milk, water, sugar, and a splash of tea. (2) Despite its name, the London Fog was created recently in Vancouver. It is a combination of Earl Grey, milk, and vanilla syrup. (3) Nai Cha is a blend of black tea, evaporated milk, and sugar. More than 900 million mugs of this “milk tea” are drunk each year in Hong Kong. (4) Teh Tarik, made of evaporated milk and black tea, owes its foamy texture to the way it is prepared, being poured back and forth between two pitchers until it is completely combined.
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W HICH TEAS PAIR W ELL? Today, Lattes are a global phenomenon. In coffee shops and restaurants, people can be found sipping them on every continent and at any time of day. Unfortunately, the beverage has been a victim of its own success, and low-quality versions abound. For convenience and to cut costs, some establishments use powdered teas with
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a strong, unsophisticated flavour, and some even rely
In our collection of flavoured teas, look for blends with
on concentrated tea syrups from questionable sources.
a base of black tea and spicy or gourmand overtones,
Like any culinary creation, a Latte requires one essential
such as Thé des Amants and Chaï Impérial. Some of our
ingredient: an outstanding, well-chosen tea, the common
flavoured green teas, such as Vive les Fêtes, also make for
foundation that transcends this taste experience.
a delicious Latte.
Alongside the tried-and-true Matcha Latte and Chai Latte,
For a caffeine-free Latte, choose our Oriental Garden
other combinations also allow a tea to blossom and
herbal tea or select one of our rooibos blends such as Spicy
develop new facets.
Passion, Rooibos des Vahinés, or Rooibos des Lords.
Full-bodied black teas, such as Assam and Ceylon, are
And for the true connoisseur, certain Grands Crus lend
the perfect base for a good Latte. New Vithanakande, for
themselves to an exceptional Latte. Mokalbari Golden Tips,
example, is magical in combination with milk, which
for example, is a full-bodied Assam that pairs beautifully
takes the edge off the robust tannins of this Sri Lankan
with milk, which softens its tannins and brings out the
tea to reveal gourmand, honey and spicy notes.
honey and spicy notes.
Latte special issue
PU ERH IMPÉRIAL LATTE A comforting blend inspired by traditional Tibetan Po Cha (“butter tea”). : milk + Pu Erh Impérial : steep 8 g (0.3 oz) of tea in a mixture of 250 ml of water at 95°C (200°F) and 250 ml of hot milk : 4 minutes REF. 215.
Which milk should I use? Cow’s milk or non-dairy (almond or soy) milk will work wonderfully in the recipe of Chaï Impérial Green Masala Latte. If desired, you can add a dash of honey, maple syrup, or agave syrup to taste.
CHAÏ IMPÉRIAL GREEN MASALA LATTE Sweet green tea and milk enlivened with an Indian spice blend featuring cinnamon, cardamom and pink pepper. : milk + Chaï Impérial Green Masala : s teep 13 g (0.5 oz) of tea in a mixture of 250 ml of water at 90°C (195 °F) and 250 ml of hot milk : 5 minutes REF. 774.
Palais des Thés recipes For more recipes, visit our website: www.palaisdesthes.com/en/gastronomy
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Gong Fu Cha special issue
Gong Fu Cha and Oolong: an intertuıined history Gong Fu Cha is a Chinese technique for preparing tea that consists of a succession of very brief infusions. Its name literally means “making tea with skill”. Join Palais des Thés in uncovering the origins of this art devoted to exploring the aromatic notes of fine teas such as Oolong, a tea that has always been intimately linked with Gong Fu Cha.
G ONG FU CHA & O OLONG: CHIN E SE OR IGINS From a historical point of view, Gong Fu Cha was born
With this new method of preparing tea came new utensils,
out of a change in the way people drank tea. Before the
since bowls and whisks were not needed for simply steeping
Ming Dynasty (16th century), tea was compressed for
whole leaves. In their place, the teapot was invented, an
easier transportation and storage. The tea was then flaked
icon of tea drinking now recognized worldwide.
off and boiled like a soup (Tang Dynasty) or ground and enjoyed as whipped tea (Song Dynasty). This approach
The first teapots were made in the city of Yi Xing in
was eventually prohibited by the Yongle Emperor as
southeastern China. Even today, the region is still
being too costly, at a time when the Empire's economy
globally renowned for its expertise in pottery. These clay
was struggling. Not until the 16th century was tea first
teapots have porous walls that retain a memory of the
prepared as it is today, by steeping whole leaves.
teas steeped in them, which is why it is important to keep
What is Oolong tea? Just like green tea and black tea, Oolong is a family of teas, in this case semi-oxidized. Its name means “Black Dragon”, a reference to the long, dry leaves that have been twisted and roasted. It is also called “blue-green tea”, after the color of its steeped leaves. This type of tea is very popular in China. For more information, visit our website to read Bruits de Palais No. 70: www.palaisdesthes.com/fr/bruits-de-palais
Wu Yi Mountain Range (Fujian Province)
a different teapot for each family of tea. Meanwhile, not far from Yi Xing, some of the oldest varieties of whole-leaf teas—Oolong from the Guangdong and Fujian provinces—were being grown. To bring out the rich aromas of these teas, Yi Xing teapots were made smaller, and more leaves were used to prepare each pot. And because a very brief steeping time was sufficient to produce a highly concentrated brew, it quickly became the custom to steep the same tea leaves several times until they were “used up”. A small teapot, a large quantity of leaves, and repeated steeping: these are the foundations of Gong Fu Cha. Guangdong and Fujian provinces both claim to have originated the technique, but its popularity has spread far beyond the borders of China.
FROM CHINA TO TAI WAN... AND BEYOND Under the government of Chiang Kai-Shek, Chinese refugees from Fujian brought the secrets of tea-making with them to Taiwan. Production quickly focused on Oolong teas, which were highly symbolic of traditional China. And since Fujian tea was prepared using Gong Fu Cha, the technique travelled across the borders of
Da Hong Pao, a legendary Chinese Oolong, breuıed to perfection using Gong Fu Cha Of the Oolong teas that inspired the technique, there is one particularly famed and ancient variety called Da Hong Pao. Native to the northern Wu Yi mountains, it is one of the rarest teas in the world. While the 350-year-old tea plants certainly contribute to the pedigree of this exceptional Oolong, it is the legend surrounding it that has cemented its reputation: it is said that drinking this tea healed the emperor’s mother. As a sign of his gratitude, her son supposedly gave a gift of rich red robes to cover the tea plants. Indeed, the literal translation of Da Hong Pao is “big red robe”. Above all, however, the tea is known for its strong, exceptional taste, which comes from the unique method used to produce it. The leaves are shaken on woven bamboo trays, using a circular motion to encourage oxidation. Next, they are roasted at night, using a method requiring great skill, over hot coals that give the tea its toasted flavour reminiscent of coffee beans and toasted bread. This exceptional tea is unveiled by the art of Gong Fu Cha. Each infusion uncovers another layer of the intense roasting process, letting gourmand notes of sweet spices and dark berries shine through. Steeping Da Hong Pao tea according to the Gong Fu Cha method reveals all the depth, complexity and hidden notes of this renowned tea.
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Gong Fu Cha special issue
southeastern China to take hold in Taiwan. The history of Taiwan is complex: before the arrival of the Chinese, the state was under Japanese rule. This dual influence can still be seen today in the ways the Japanese Cha No Yu tea ceremony * has influenced the Taiwanese practice of Gong Fu Cha. These include the use of plain utensils, more strictly defined movements and presentations, and even tatami mats on the floors of traditional tea houses. Gong Fu Cha was transformed in Taiwan. New utensils were invented, including sniffing cups made of porcelain to capture even the most subtle notes of the tea. After its birth in the Fujian and Guangdong provinces and its wholesale adoption in Taiwan, Oolong tea expanded into other Chinese provinces. At the same time, the practice of Gong Fu Cha spread, continuing to evolve and adapt to other colours of tea. Blue-green teas next reached Thailand and Vietnam, carrying with them the art of Gong Fu Cha. Oolong tea production continues to expand today, and it can now be found in Korea, Nepal, Darjeeling and Malawi. In each of these countries, Gong Fu Cha has gained a devoted following.
Three iconic Taiuıanese teas, delicious uıith Gong Fu Cha** ORIENTAL BEAUTY This exceptional tea owes its flavour to the Paoli, a small insect that enhances the aromatic notes of the tea by biting the leaves of the plants. Oriental Beauty is a tea whose great complexity is gradually revealed by the practice of Gong Fu Cha. Its intense floral, honey and fruity notes blossom with each infusion, showing off every facet of its endlessly fascinating flavours.
GAO SHAN CHA “high mountain tea” These tea plants grow at altitudes of more than 1,000 meters. Little sunlight and persistent fog lead to very slow growth, which in turn results in an unusually refined tea. Its most subtle notes are revealed through Gong Fu Cha. Each infusion creates a beautiful alchemy between the floral flavours and buttery notes that echo the richly creamy texture of a Gao Shan Cha. Because the infusions are brief and repeated, the top notes are experienced with precision and elegance.
DONG DING This is one of the most famous Taiwanese teas, and the government even hosts an annual competition for the best Dong Ding. Gong Fu Cha offers an opportunity to admire the way the leaves, carefully rolled into pearls, reveal different profiles with each infusion.
G ONG FU CHA IN PR ACTICE Neither ritual practice nor ceremony, Gong Fu Cha has a thousand faces, because it is a freeform approach that can be tailored to any taste. While its implementation varies from one region to another, it is always built upon the same foundation: the use of specific tools, including a small teapot or a porcelain Gaiwan (or Zhong), the ideal ratio of tea to water, and the method of brief, repeated infusions using accessories that have been thoroughly prewarmed with very hot water. This method is able to extract every aroma and break down the flavour palette of even the richest, most complex teas.
OUR ADVICE FOR USING GONG FU CHA TO SAVOUR YOUR TEAS THE BEST WAY
Finally, although Gong Fu Cha was long limited to preparing and enjoying Oolong teas, it is now widely used
Oolong: Gong Fu Cha is the ideal way to experience
to explore the subtleties of many other families of teas,
the aromatic depth of this family of teas, using either clay
including Pu Erh and green teas.
or porcelain utensils. Dark teas and black teas: because they are so strongly fla-
Learn the basics of Gong Fu Cha Learn the technique by watching our online video at palaisdesthes.com or on our Palais des Thés YouTube channel.
voured, they last through many infusions in Gong Fu Cha. These two families of teas are especially well matched with Yi Xing clay. Green teas and white teas: their subtle and elegant top notes are shown to advantage by quick infusions. We recommend using porcelain.
* Refer to Bruits de Palais n° 62 and n° 67 for more information about Cha No Yu: www.palaisdesthes.com/fr/bruits-de-palais ** Visit any Palais des Thés shop or our e-shop to find teas with similar flavour profiles.
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Grands Crus selection
D ONG DI NG G ONG FU CH A T EA P OT REF. M089.
Grands Crus selection January 2019 Ring in the New Year with our exceptional Grands Crus, a selection of unconventional varieties featuring tastes from around the globe. Try your hand at the Gong Fu Cha method of preparing tea with three rare Oolong, and experience a white tea from Malawi and a black tea from China.
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Oolong Experience our extraordinary Oolong from unusual sources.
India DARJEELING GOPALDHARA EXOTIC OOLONG For the first time, here is an Oolong from the Gopaldhara Tea Estate in Darjeeling, a region generally known for its black teas. The partial oxidation brings out the aromatic bouquet of this Himalayan tea featuring almond, zest and toasted notes. This Oolong tea combines the best of a superb terroir and a rare tea colour for India. REF. 0187A18.
Thailand ANTIQUE BEAUTY This tea marries Taiwanese skill with the mountainous terroir of Mae Salong in Vietnam. It is processed using a method similar to “five-colour” Bai Hao Oolong, the most famous of which is Oriental Beauty, but adds a final roasting stage. The result is a tea with floral, fruity, and honey notes as well as an intense toasted flavour. This highly aromatic tea is reminiscent of the finest highly oxidized Taiwanese Oolong as well as “antique” roasted Oolong. REF. 2679.
Please note: All the teas featured on these pages are Grands Crus harvested in very small quantities, available for a specific and limited time with no guarantee of future availability. Available until the batch has gone, these teas may suddenly go out of stock.
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Grands Crus selection Tuıo one-of-a-kind Grands Crus Two colours of tea, two terroirs, two teas produced with unusual methods, and a unique flavour profile for each
Malawi THÉ BLANC DU MONT THYOLO This African white tea from the Satemwa estate in Malawi is made from a Malawian cultivar with a high proportion of Camellia Sinensis Assamica. Its processing method draws inspiration from Chinese Bai Mu Dan: after plucking, the leaves are allowed to wither for four days, developing a strong grassy and fruity aspect. This rare variety will give you a fresh perspective on white tea. REF. 551.
China SHENJIAN HONG CHA This next tea takes us to northern Guangxi in China. Harvested at an altitude of 1,200 meters in Fengshan District, this black tea is roasted at a high temperature for three hours. As the leaves are heated, they develop intense, fruity and gourmand notes with a strong toasted f lavour. This unique Grand Cru will delight fans of Da Hong Pao. REF. 236.
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Our selection of Grands Crus is constantly evolving and expanding as we discover new teas and garden on our travels. To find out about new arrivals as soon as possible, please sign up for our newsletter via our website palaisdesthes.com
Tasting notes Thaï Beauty
Origin: Thailand Colour: Oolong Water temperature: 90°C (195°F) Steeping time: 6 min. Amount of tea leaves per pot: 6 g (0.2 oz) for 300 ml Gong Fu Cha: successive infusions of 30 seconds each REF. 2678.
This exceptional Grand Cru is harvested at 1,250 meters on the slopes of Mae Salong, in the Chiang Rai region of Thailand. At her estate, Ms. Ming grows tea plants including Jinxuan and Si Ji Chun to produce Oolong in the Taiwanese tradition. Her teas combine Taiwanese expertise with a Thai terroir whose growing conditions are ideal for plants. Made from Qin Xin cultivars, this heavily oxidized Oolong is inspired by the processing method used for Dong Fang Mei Ren, better known as Oriental Beauty. Just like Oriental Beauty, this tea is made from leaves that were bitten by an insect related to the Paoli before being plucked. The little insect makes a big difference in the tea, since its bites alter the chemical structure of the leaves, making their aromatic notes much more intense and complex. This superb tea rekindles the magic of an Oriental Beauty from an unusual terroir.
Dry leaf Appearance: large twisted leaves, very rich in tips. Colours: brown leaves and silvery tips, coppery highlights. Scents: honey, woody, floral. Infusion Aromas: very floral, honeyed. Liquor Colour: light orange. Flavour: oily. Taste: very sweet. Flavours: floral opening (powdery rose, violet, orange blossom), gourmand notes (vanilla, almond milk), fruity middle (candied oranges), honey, liquorice finish. Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: a tea of incredible complexity. Its mellow, thick texture carries precise yet subtle notes in a f loral, honeyed register. Its sweet taste lingers for a long time in the mouth. Our opinion: this Oolong from Thailand offers rich depths of flavour, with an exceptionally sweet taste and a lovely oily texture that coats the entire palate. Don’t miss this rare, delicious tea! Issued from organic agriculture
Tips from our Tea Sommeliers This Oolong tea pairs beautifully with sheep’s milk cheese. Its woody, floral and honey notes blend perfectly with the cheese, which in turn reveals more complex flavours.
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Neuıs
1. Spice routes Chaï Impérial Green Masala combines mild green tea with exotic Indian spices: cardamom, pink pepper, cinnamon and ginger. A new take on Chai for a delicious flavour experience. REF. 774.
2. Suıeet treats By customer request, the wildly popular Christmas 2017 limited edition is back as part of our permanent collection! Thé des Gourmets blends the sweet, comforting flavour of almonds with tart notes of cherry and cranberry for a unique cup of tea. Generous almond pieces finish off this delicious treat. REF. 842.
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Learn the technique by watching our online video at palaisdesthes.com or on our Palais des Thés YouTube channel.
3. G ong Fu Cha preparation made simple! Explore the wonderful aromas of Oolong, Pu Erh and green teas with this introductory set, which contains all the porcelain accessories you need to prepare tea according to the traditional Gong Fu Cha method. This includes a teapot, a reserve pot, two cups to smell tea and two cups to taste tea. With instructions right on the back of the box, you have everything at hand to learn the technique effortlessly. REF. W912. INTRODUCTION SET TO GONG FU CHA. REF. W913. GONG FU CHA ONE SMELLING AND ONE TESTING CUPS SET.
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Bring tea to the table!
La Maison du Chocolat comes to Tea School The Tea School has long intended to design a class on tea and chocolate pairings. This is now becoming a reality in partnership with La Maison du Chocolat.
The two companies have chosen to work together because they share many values: a love of beautiful products, an emphasis on sharing, and a desire to introduce people to tea and chocolate from a different angle. In designing the class, our Tea Sommeliers presented their pairings to the Chef at La Maison du Chocolat, Nicolas Cloiseau, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France Chocolatier*, who was excited about the depth that tea can add to chocolate. Whether the ingredients contrast, blend with, or match each other, each combination invites students to share a gourmet tasting experience with a sweet side.
Selection of tea and chocolate pairings “BLEND’’ PAIRING
“CONTRAST’’ PAIRING
“TONE-ON-TONE’’ PAIRING
MILKY OOLONG AND ANDALOUSIE*
PU ERH LIN CANG AND SALVADOR**
JUKRO AND EXTRÊME CHOCOLAT***
The chocolate underscores the milky facet of the tea, while the tea brings grassy notes. In combination, they evoke the flavour of a lemon meringue pie.
The tea brings out the raspberry note of the chocolate for a pairing with a lingering jammy flavour.
The chocolate becomes more intense and nuanced when paired with the tea, which in turn becomes more mellow and less astringent.
* Dark chocolate ganache with lemon cream and zest from the south of France
** Dark chocolate ganache with French-grown raspberries
*** Dark chocolate ganache, balance between the tartness and bitterness of pure cocoa
* The title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France recognizes savoir-faire, excellence and creativity by rewarding the best craftsmen registered in each of the many trades concerned, including pastry cook and chocolate maker.
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