Bruits de Palais N°90 UK by PALAIS DES THES

T H E M AGA Z I N E F ROM PA L A I S DE S T H É S

Issue 90

Fall 2023

EDITORIAL

Our commitment Brewing and drinking a cup of tea may seem like a trivial affair. But it’s a ritual that punctuates the day, brings time to a momentary standstill, accompanies a meal, or can be appreciated like a fine wine. It’s a pleasure shared by millions of tea lovers, making it the second most consumed beverage in the world after water. Clément Régis Head of Sustainability & CSR

At Palais des Thés, we have been helping you discover and taste fine, fascinating and unique teas from all over the world for 36 years. It is this passion for tea that motivates us to protect the land on which it is grown, to reduce the environmental impact of our company to an absolute minimum, to ensure that everyone involved in the production of our teas can make a decent living, to enable all our employees to develop their skills and find fulfillment working with us, and to offer our tea to those to whom it can bring comfort.

Cover

Picking tea in Kenya. Because tea is an evergreen shrub, its leaves can be harvested at different times of year, at intervals of four to 15 days. Opposite

In almost all tea-producing countries, tea is picked by hand, as many plantations are located on steep slopes where it would be impossible to use machinery.

We remain fully committed to our values and to continuously striving to make a more positive impact. To this end, and in a desire for transparency, we have produced our first Corporate Social Responsibility report. It assesses our carbon footprint and explores the challenges of converting our teas and herbal infusions to organic while supporting our longstanding producers. It details our painstaking work to trace and eliminate plastics from our packaging on a large scale. We have examined these issues with the help of our specialist teams. We are making these commitments for the sake of our company, but most importantly for you, our valued readers and lovers of quality tea. The report is now available to view on our website. Please do not hesitate to send us your feedback and suggestions on this subject. Our CSR report can be found on our website www.palaisdesthes.com

Issue 90 • Fall 2023

CONTENTS T R AV E L J O U R N A L

PLANET TE A

B y Manuél a L er iche

Our goal to be plastic-free

Better packaging is less packaging

TA S T I N G A P R E M I U M T E A W I T H A T E A S O M M E LI E R

T E A I N T H E K I TC H E N

The taste of Korea 6

T E A C U LT U R E B y L aetitia Por toi s

Gong Fu Cha, time for tea 20

B y C amille Bour r ie z

Batabatacha from Itoigawa

Rice pudding with Chaï Impérial 28

T E L L M E A S TO RY

REMARK ABLE TE A

NEWS

B y Elena Di Benedetto

Bai Mu Dan, a subtle raw white tea

All the Palais news

Tea in cocktails 30

CONTRIBUTORS

Camille Bourriez

Elena Di Benedetto

Manuéla Leriche

Master tea sommelier Camille loves to cook, and approaches tea as a gastronomic pleasure. She is fascinated by the skills of the people who process and handle tea during its production.

Elena loves to spend her day writing about tea while drinking tea. A fan of Taiwanese Oolongs, she feels transported by each cup she drinks, and is always discovering new facets of tea to fuel her passion.

Manuéla is a master tea sommelier who loves to teach people about tea in an engaging and accessible way.

TR AVEL JOURNAL

The taste of Korea Today, South Korea is better known for its pop culture than for its tea, but the country has been producing fine infusions for centuries. I’m travelling with Léo, a tea researcher at Palais des Thés, and am looking forward to meeting the producers, sharing what I learn with tea lovers on my return, and above all being open to new experiences in the “land of morning calm”. By Manuéla Leriche, head of single-estate and premium teas

l l I knew about Korea was the handful of wonderful teas we sell at Palais des Thés and a few clichés spanning K-Pop, violent movies and bibimbap! So I had a lot to learn. A few hours before our flight, Léo found out that three of our producers – one Taiwanese and two Korean – are based in Seoul, where the World Tea Festival is held. So on the plane we decided to make the capital city our first destination. A few hours to discover Korea

Tea culture and Buddhism are closely linked in South Korea. Legend has it that Buddhist monks were the first to bring tea seeds into the country.

In the Gangnam district (literally, it means “south of the river”), in this huge exhibition center full of stalls run by tea producers and potters, we tasted South Korea’s finest offerings: green and black teas that fully deserve their prestigious reputation, and delicate infusions of everything that grows in the earth (beetroot, pumpkin, cabbage, carrot, fresh lotus flowers, pine, mistletoe and more). We had thought our aim would be to identify a few Korean gems that would then guide our research for the rest of the trip. It turned out that our challenge was to choose a few from so many! All these tastings were a good introduction to the different characteristics of Korea’s three tea regions, all in the south of the country: Hadong County, Boseong County and Jeju Island. In one afternoon, I realized how important tea culture is to South Korea, both on its plantations and in its traditions. And by the end of the day I had dismissed popular comparisons between Korean teas and those from Japan and China as lazy, misguided and plain wrong. Korean teas, in their diversity, are like no other. Korea is a country where tradition and innovation coexist, not only in the way that tea is produced, but also in the way it is prepared and tasted. At the end of that first day, and despite the liters of tea that gave our travel-weary bodies the shakes, we couldn’t miss the traditional barbecue with all the exhibitors, followed by the inevitable karaoke. It was an opportunity to continue our discussions with the producers and to partake in some uninhibited fun, aided by a heady combination of jet lag, caffeine and soju. It’s no myth that tea awakens the senses, I can assure you!

TR AVEL JOURNAL

There are no less than seven Buddhist temples on Jirisan mountain, including Ssanggyesa, the temple around which Korea’s first tea plants were grown.

Hadong, the birthplace of tea in Korea The next morning, after a short sleep, we swapped the gray streets of Seoul for roads lined with chestnut trees and surrounded by lush nature. We had decided to travel to Hadong in late spring to attend the Hwagye market. This year, the open-air market lasted a whole month. Decorated for the occasion, the village, famous for its handicrafts, celebrated all things Camellia sinensis. The event attracts visitors from all over the country, and is rightly renowned for the quality of the teas and infusions on offer. We were enthusiastic about what we tasted, and once we were able to hold a conversation in English – the online translation tool we were using kept translating “tea” as “car”! – we asked the producers about their work, their production volumes and the possibility of visiting their plantations. On Sundays, the tea gardens are closed to visitors, so Léo suggested walking to the Buddhist temple of Ssanggyesa, which he’d discovered a few winters earlier when it was deserted and difficult to reach along the rugged snow-covered paths lined with menacing statues. Located on the southern slopes of Jirisan, the “mountain of strange and wise people” where Jukro is produced, the temple is much more appealing during the cherry blossom season. It is said that monks planted the first tea bushes here in the ninth century. We stopped for refreshments at a teahouse nestled in this beautiful natural park, which provided another opportunity to sample the diverse and refined flavors of Korea. When we travel to tea-producing countries, we’re more interested in finding producers than teas. We’re looking for people who are already producing excellent teas and who are capable of impressing us in the future. Sum Jim, a scientist by training, and his wife welcomed us to their tea room for a tasting at a magnificent table carved from a tree trunk. There, we encountered the same unusual preparation method that I had discovered in Seoul, with large quantities of tea served in very small vessels. Sum Jim served us a black tea – brewed at 95°C for six minutes! – that we drank from cups the size of a thimble. It came as no surprise to learn that Sum Jim

We’re looking for producers more than teas.

CARNET DE VOYAGE

Manuéla and Léo try their hand at picking tea. It requires great dexterity. The young shoot is held between the first and middle fingers of each hand, then broken by the thumb and held in the palm before being placed in the basket.

CARNET DE VOYAGE

asked a potter to make these tiny cups for him: he is looking for concentrated flavors and a unique tasting experience. His black teas were very cocoa-y and experimental; his green teas were sublime. In all the tasting sessions and the people we met, I was amazed by the ability of Korean tea producers to look to the future, to stay true to themselves and to honor tradition without freezing it in time.

Jukro, high-flying black teas The next day, I was delighted to meet Cho Yun-Seok, a third-generation tea producer whose exceptional Jukro I often enjoy. Jukro refers to a method of tea production, not a production area or a protected designation. Originally, only teas grown with bamboo dew were called Jukro. Harvested once a year and sold at very high prices, it is one of the jewels among Korean black teas. Cho Yun-Seok took us to the place it all began for his family: a farm that they turned into a teahouse. This unassuming man moved me with his passion and sincerity as he talked about his family and the importance of tea in his life. He stroked the teapot while the tea was brewing, explaining that he was transmitting his energy to it. It was a unique ritual, typical of his country. His tea trees grow in an untamed environment, beneath giant ferns in the highest gardens in the region, at an altitude of 800 meters. “Do you have any teas other than your Jukro that we can taste?” we asked him, insistently. “Maybe,” he replied. This “maybe” led to a stunning roasted stem tea, an incredible Oolong and the best wild pear and persimmon leaf infusions I’ve ever tasted. In South Korea, infusions are an art form! Such revelations can only come from meeting people in person, and brought a real sense of purpose to our travels to

Eager to break with tradition, Cho Yun-Seok is a tea adventurer, with skills acquired from his parents and grandparents.

CARNET DE VOYAGE

the source of tea. Although we had been following Cho Yun-Seok’s work for several years, it was only by sharing time and a few cups of tea that our relationship deepened.

Surprises in Boseong

The tea leaves are steamed, then formed into small cakes, which are pierced so they can be hung to dry. Aging improves this rare tea, which is reserved for family consumption.

After several hours of driving we arrived in Boseong after dark for a few nights staying in charming three-centuries-old guesthouses. More modest than Hadong, Boseong nevertheless boasts a rich history and immense potential. If tea is, for us, as tea lovers, a way to explore the spirit of a country, its cuisine is a good indication of its cultural wealth. Here, as in Hadong, I was aware of the quest for flavor in every dish and infusion we tasted, though eating live octopus tentacles, fermented ray, black goat and bamboo crab was more of a challenge. We visited the Choi family, who take a holistic approach to growing their tea and other plants intended for brewing, like everywhere else in South Korea. The food and drink we consumed were intended to benefit both mind and body. June, their son, greeted us and immediately suggested that we head out to pick tea and process what we harvested. Wearing aprons, sleeves and gloves, we carefully copied Mrs Choi as she roasted “our” green tea at a very high temperature. A series of circular movements and pressing of the leaves, interspersed with periods of rest and aeration, produced the fresh toasted notes typical of Korean green teas. “Would you like to try our white tea?” June asked shyly. A few months before our trip, Léo had suggested to June that they try making a white tea, which he was eager and anxious to taste with us. It exceeded all expectations. Such was its elegance that, next spring, it will be the first Korean white tea for sale in the West! We look forward to sharing this souvenir of our trip with other tea lovers.

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PL ANET TE A

OUR GOAL TO BE PLASTIC-FREE Since the 1950s, plastic has been everywhere, in low-cost and high-performance materials that have revolutionized our consumption habits. This symbol of “modernity” is harming the environment in a way that is only now being truly understood. How can we in the tea industry do more to reduce the pollution caused by plastic waste?

A global challenge In late spring of 2023, 3,000 participants from around the world, including delegates from 175 countries, gathered at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris to review a draft international treaty to combat plastic pollution. The damage caused by the plastic explosion is undeniable (by the early 2000s, the weight of plastic produced was doubling every five years, and it could triple by 2026 if no action is taken), and each country and industry is considering different solutions. Although France is the third largest consumer of plastic in the European Union, it also supports one of the most ambitious policies, with a target of 100% recycling of all single-use plastic by 2025. The proliferation of new regulations in this area is also linked to growing awareness of the health risks to consumers (see box below). The tea industry, like the food industry in general, is concerned by these environmental and health issues, which call into question not only production processes and the balance between supply and demand but also consumption patterns and consumer habits. We must rise to the challenge of creating a world without plastic that harms people and their environment.

IS THAT PLASTIC IN YOUR CUP? In 2019, a Canadian study revealed that billions of plastic microparticles are released when tea is packaged and brewed in a nylon or PET (polyethylene terephthalate) tea bag**. As of January 1, 2022, the sale of this type of tea bag has been banned in the European Union (under the AGEC law, see page 18). These synthetic materials have mainly been replaced by cotton, and more recently by corn starch (PLA). Palais des Thés introduced cotton in 1999 and corn starch in 2020. Today, none of our tea bags contain plastic.

Packaging represents

46%

of plastic consumption in France *.

* Source: ADEME (June 2023). ** Source: “Plastic Teabags Release Billions of Microparticles and Nanoparticles into Tea”, ACS Environmental Science & Technology, 2019.

PL ANÈTE THÉ

Selling loose tea is an obvious solution. Historically, tea was always sold loose, by weight. Selling foodstuffs like tea in bulk helps reduce disposable packaging waste. Bulk is becoming popular again and is part of an underlying consumer trend. In its dry form, tea can be stored for months in good conditions. Another advantage of selling tea leaves loose is that they can be kept whole, not broken.

PL ANET TE A

“Every year, about 10 million metric tons of plastic waste end up in the oceans, the equivalent of one truckload every minute!”* Reduce, reuse, recycle It’s impossible to eliminate plastic altogether. But there is plenty of room to further reduce its use in different types of packaging. Reusable packaging should replace single-use packaging, which has a short useful life and causes problems at the end of its life (it cannot be recycled and is destined for landfill or incineration). To make progress in recycling, businesses are being urged to consider end-of-life right from the start, at the product design stage. This could mean, for example, reducing the number of materials used. The more materials that are used, the harder it is to separate them for recycling. Single-material products are better because they are easier to recycle than composite materials. Upstream from packaging manufacture, tea industry players are also testing replacement materials such as paper or cardboard, and using them wherever possible.

Rethinking packaging Reducing or even eliminating the use of plastic in common consumer goods is not easy because plastic has so many benefits (protection, sealing, food barrier, etc.) at a lower cost. Depending on the purpose of plastic in a product or packaging material, eliminating it requires careful consideration and consultation with all the parties in the tea chain. Is it possible to remove and replace only the plastic element of a product? Why was plastic used in the first place – to help preserve the product? To protect it? For aesthetic, technical or economic reasons? In addition to the often time-consuming search for new materials (it takes time to test the feasibility, reliability and effectiveness of a solution), eliminating plastic can mean discontinuing an item, or keeping it but spending time developing sustainable and viable alternatives while reducing the plastic to a minimum.

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* Source : Zero Waste France

Which types of plastic? There are many different types of plastics with very different compositions. They can be flexible or rigid. The most common type used for food packaging is polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Not all plastics can be recycled. Plastics (PET, PP, PE, PS, etc.) owe their immense success to their versatility.

PL ANET TE A

Better packaging is less packaging As a responsible tea company in the food industry, we have been taking action and implementing solutions since 2020 to reach our goal of becoming plastic-free by 2026. Together with you and our partners, we will be able to meet this global challenge!

A closer look at our packaging The main purpose of plastic in tea packaging is to act as a barrier: It protects the tea from food and external contaminants and preserves its flavors and aromas. Our company is known for its high-quality teas. But preserving the freshness of the volatile aromas of these whole-leaf teas introduces additional packaging constraints compared to a lowerquality CTC (crush, tear, curl) tea. Our priority remains excellence and taste!

Plastic → 9.27g

Paper → 0.5g

Origin: France

By 2024, our loose-leaf pouches (above) must use 50% less plastic while providing the same level of protection for the tea that has been the primary benefit of this type of packaging.

Cardboard → 2g Plastic → 9g

Cotton → 7g

Plastic and cardboard → 7g

Plastic → 2.4g

Origin: France and Morocco Tinplate → 83.1g

Paper → 1g

These three types of packaging (loose-leaf pouch, metal canister, box of tea bags) are not disposed of in the general waste in France. Some types are recycled. Origin: France and Spain

PL ANET TE A

Reducing our packaging According to France’s anti-waste law for a circular economy (AGEC), passed in February 2020, stores must provide customers with clean containers suitable for reuse and allow customers to bring in their own containers for refill, as long as they are visibly clean and suitable for the product purchased. To reduce unnecessary packaging as much as possible, Palais des Thés goes even further by encouraging customers to buy looseleaf tea through a reward program with tea “bud” points. If customers bring in their own canister or paper bag to refill, Palais des Thés rewards them with one additional point per refill (for example, if they spend €20 on tea in one of our stores and refill their own canister or bag, they will receive 20 points plus one additional point for refilling). This is a great way to reuse favorite containers and it also reduces waste by allowing people to buy only the quantity of tea they need.

Since 2021, customer refills have reduced our use of plastic by 2.5 metric tons.

Use packaging that is opaque (leaves dry out and lose color and flavor when exposed to light) and airtight (to protect the tea from odors and oxidation), clean and odor-free, and store in a dry place.

PL ANET TE A

At Palais des Thés, we have a team dedicated to reducing and eliminating plastic in our different types of packaging. Some packaging products are already available and others will be introduced in the next few years following a number of tests. Cardboard tray

Changes for the better!

In 2022, we saved 22 metric tons of plastic.

In 2021, we replaced the plastic trays in our advent calendars with cardboard equivalents, resulting in an annual reduction of 10 to 15 metric tons of plastic, or 66% of our total plastic reduction. This had a massive impact for a minimal change!

Let’s choose loose-leaf tea for more pleasure and less plastic!

A plastic-free drink One hundred grams of tea leaves can make six to seven liters of iced tea or infusion. It’s a healthy alternative to drinks that come in plastic bottles, for you and for the planet. In this case, choosing loose tea means that between six and 20 fewer plastic bottles will enter the waste stream!

Let’s reduce our packaging with loose tea!

20 In the birthplace of tea, tasting takes place in a calm, bright and airy environment, the ideal conditions to appreciate some time to yourself.

Gong Fu Cha, time for tea Around the world and through the ages, tea preparation has given rise to many different techniques. One of them, Gong Fu Cha (or “time for tea”), originated in China. A true art form based on tea, it is still part of a social ritual in which time is taken to appreciate By Laetitia Portois all the pleasures of tea.

TE A CULTURE

ong Fu Cha is the traditional Chinese technique of brewing tea, ideal for exploring the rich variety of aromas and flavors of single-estate teas. The method involves brewing a large quantity of tea leaves in a small teapot or gaiwan in a series of short repeated infusions (each lasting just a few seconds), until the notes and flavors fade. Gong Fu Cha, the art of tea tasting Gong Fu Cha is part of the history of tea consumption in China. Tea was initially grated and boiled, then ground and whisked. It was not until the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) that the Chinese began to drink tea in the form we recognize today: as an infusion of whole leaves. This was a period of cultural and artistic prosperity when tea became popular, especially in intellectual circles. Tea was drunk by scholars to punctuate their long days of study. The Gong Fu Cha method was inspired by these habits, as a simple means of supplying a continuous flow of tea. Hot water was provided and poured into a vessel in which the leaves were brewed multiple times until they had released all their flavors. Yuan Mei, a food lover and poet who lived during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), described the method as follows: “A very small amount of tea is poured at a time. When you raise the cup to your mouth, you should not swallow in haste but first smell it, then taste and contemplate it […]. After one cup, you drink a second, then a third, then people feel relaxed and at peace.” In those circles, drinking tea was a refined act and became an elaborate art associated with abundant literature. The technique we use today dates back to the early Ming Dynasty, but the Gong Fu Cha method of brewing tea was mentioned as early as the Song Dynasty. With the appearance of teahouses, the brewing method spread to the working class. Teahouses became centers of social and cultural life. People visited them to meet friends and play mahjong. The tea was chosen on entering, but it was really a pretext for a social gathering, and the preparation method lost its ceremonial aspect. As the hours passed, a host would come round with a kettle to refill the guests’ gaiwans. The lid placed next to the bowl meant it needed filling. The lid placed over the bowl showed that it was full and no more water was required.

THE GAIWAN

Called a zhong in Cantonese, it consists of a saucer, bowl and lid, symbolizing earth, man and sky. These elements come together in a harmonious whole. The gaiwan is an everyday object: every Chinese person has one. It is versatile, and can be used as a cup but also as a teapot or a tasting set. There are many types of gaiwan, from the simplest to the most precious, and they can be made from terracotta, wood, glass, Yixing clay, porcelain, jade, and even ivory.

With successive infusions in the gaiwan, the tea leaves unfurl and release all their aromas and flavors.

CULTURE THÉ

TE A CULTURE

As a preparation method and an art of tasting, the Gong Fu Cha still has a social significance. It can be used to make tea for oneself or to share with others over a lengthy conversation. The method varies depending on who is doing the brewing. The same tea brewed at different times can produce different results with different people. Increasingly appreciated in the West for its ability to reveal all the aromas and flavors of tea, the technique is now used and adapted all over the world, with a kyusu in Japan and other vessels in Vietnam, Korea and Taiwan.

A loosely defined method with infinite variations The Gong Fu Cha is not a ritual or a ceremony, but rather a loosely defined technique that anyone can adopt and make their own. Above all, this method of preparing tea depends on the objects used. The materials, shapes and capacities of the bowls and teapots are carefully designed to bring out the flavors and optimize the brewing process. The objects are small, encouraging short sips to appreciate the infusion at its best. They are simple, functional and elegant; some are collectors’ items. Before you begin, you will need a gaiwan. This simple yet radical object consists of a small tapered bowl with a lid and a small dish on which it rests. Its purpose is to provide a straightforward means of brewing tea leaves in water. Yixing teapots can also be used; they are ideal as they retain heat and their porous clay absorbs the aromas of the different teas brewed in them. To begin, all items (gaiwan, teapot, cup) must be rinsed with hot water, along with the leaves themselves, which opens them up and prepares them for brewing (only for Oolongs and dark teas). This water is not drunk, but is poured over the tea pet. Then, filtered water heated to the correct temperature is poured gently over the leaves. After steeping for a few seconds, the tea is served in one or more cups. Successive infusions reveal a variety of intense notes. As the leaves unfurl they release their flavors and other compounds, making each infusion different from the last. The tea is served in small cups to showcase all the notes. In Asia, people like to enjoy good things in small quantities, as often as possible. This is an excellent way for all tea lovers to discover and rediscover their favorite teas!

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What is a tea pet? Tea pets are personal objects that enhance the tea-drinking experience. They are considered “companions” when tasting tea.

In China, many people who brew their tea using the Gong Fu Cha method have one or more tea pets. A tea pet is a small terracotta figurine that sits on the tea boat over which some tea is poured (such as the water used to rinse the leaves, or tea that has gone cold). A tea pet can be an animal or a figure (opposite). Some see it as a representation of the god of tea.

TASTING A PREMIUM TE A WITH A TE A SOMMELIER

Tasting Batabatacha from Itoigawa We’re heading to Japan to discover a rare and exceptional tea that is unique due to its composition, appearance and myriad notes. The Batabatacha I’ve chosen to taste with you comes from the city of Itoigawa, located in the center of the archipelago By Camille Bourriez next to the Sea of Japan.

Batabatacha was originally a tea that was brewed, then whisked, and often served with a meal. Although it is similar to traditional Matcha in its preparation, the technique and utensils are different.

Whisked tea

Camille Bourriez has been a master tea sommelier since 2022. She is passionate about cooking and loves tea for its gastronomic pleasures. She is fascinated by the skills of the people who process and handle tea during its production.

The brewed tea is whisked in a bowl with a pinch of salt using two bamboo whisks tied together, narrower than the chasens used in the cha no yu. Batabatacha takes its name from this method. The onomatopoeia batabata, which means “agitation” in Japanese, evokes the sound of a whip. Cha means “tea”, and Batabatacha refers to the tea that is whisked. Nowadays, in the West, we tend to drink it brewed in a teapot. This is because people don’t know about the whisking method and also because it requires specific utensils that are not to hand.

Toyama or Itoigawa? There are two types of Batabatacha produced in Japan. Toyama Batabatacha is a dark tea, whose leaves are fermented. Its aromatic profile is similar to some Chinese Pu Erhs. Itoigawa Batabatacha is not fermented.

1. The leaves in the Batabatacha before brewing.

Different blends are available, depending on the other ingredients that are added to the tea leaves. The blend chosen by Palais des Thés is made with green tea, chamaecrista shoots and pods, and roasted soybeans. I can’t wait to brew this unusual blend.

An autumn walk As soon as I open the canister of tea I can smell the tea’s roasted, warm aromas, which whet the appetite by evoking toast and cereals. Batabatacha reminds me of an autumn scene, with its chamaecrista shoots and pods, green tea leaves – this is a Bancha – and some soybeans [1]. Roasting gives it all a tawny color with hints of gold. To make 50 cl of tea, I pour 8g to 10g of this mixture into a paper filter [2] and heat the water in my kettle to 90°C. While the

tea brews in the teapot for 5 minutes, its burnt aromas fill the room. When it’s time to taste the tea, it lives up to its promise and reveals beautiful sensorial surprises. Itoigawa Batabatacha is as complex as it is soothing. The chamaecrista and soybeans increase the intensity, roundness and complexity of the Bancha Hojicha. The intense roasted notes of the honeyed infusion [3] support a palette of rich autumnal flavors: toasted and woody notes, cooked fruit, barley malt, coffee and licorice aromas wrapped in a silky texture and a delicious sweet taste.

A mealtime companion I appreciate the coffee notes of Itoigawa Batabatacha first thing in the morning, for breakfast, with a fresh buttered baguette,

3. The honeyed infusion reveals enveloping and soothing toasted notes.

but I’m happy to drink it at any time of the day. Prepared at room temperature, it can be enjoyed during a meal, with a honey-roasted Camembert. In the afternoon, its toasted notes are a perfect match for the almond flavor of a financier cake. As it is low in caffeine, it can be enjoyed throughout the evening.

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Itoigawa Babatatacha Cultivar Yabukita (for the tea only: 40% of the blend) Origin Itoigawa (Niigata Prefecture, Japan) Brewing guide

→ 30 cl teapot: 90°C, 5 minutes Food pairings

Buttered toast, honeyroasted Camembert, financier cake. 2. Using a filter for brewing means the tea leaves don’t get broken.

→ Ref. 3096 – €82 per 100g

TE A IN THE KITCHEN

Rice pudding with Chaï Impérial Chai Impérial perfumes rice pudding, bringing out the smooth sweetness of the milk and sugar with its notes of cardamom, cinnamon and pink peppercorns.

Serves 6

Put the Chaï Impérial in a large filter.

4-5 tbsp (20-25g)

Heat the milk and tea in a saucepan.

When the milk boils, remove from the heat and leave the tea to steep for 5 minutes.

Remove the tea.

Add the rice and sugar to the saucepan.

Simmer for 25 minutes until the rice is cooked, stirring regularly. The rice should have a melting, creamy texture.

Transfer the rice pudding into small dishes or glasses. Serve.

Chaï Impérial 1L semi-skimmed milk 200g short-grain rice 100g brown sugar

Serving suggestion You can serve this flavored rice pudding with warm or cold milk and garnished with raisins and toasted flaked almonds. This recipe brings a delicious warm, spicy twist to the classic rice pudding.

CHAÏ IMPÉRIAL → Ref. D771AM − €10.90 per 100g

TELL ME A STORY

Tea in cocktails The history of cocktails is not so far removed from that of tea. This connection goes back further than you might think, and has led to some interesting combinations! With or without alcohol, tea mixology offers a wide variety of flavors. It’s a new way to appreciate your favorite teas, with a twist. By Elena Di Benedetto

Did you know that the oldest type of tea, the one that preceded Lu Yu’s revolution1 in 780, was eaten, not drunk? It was used to make soup, along with onions, oranges, spices, milk, and even salt. Tea was a cooking ingredient in its own right. The histories of tea and cocktails are closely linked Later, tea was added to more elaborate drinks. Punch, known today as a mixture of fruit juice and rum, originated from panch, the Hindi word for “five” in reference to the five ingredients in the cocktail, which was created in the 1700s. This sailors’ tipple mixed tea with arak (an anise-flavored spirit), spices, sugar and lemon. It was a cocktail before its time, in a

way, and history has elevated this unique drink, which combines alcohol, a sweetener, an acidic ingredient and possibly a diluent and various flavorings, to gastronomic status. Since the 17th century, cocktail art has spread to bars all over the world, starting in England. A few centuries later, cocktails became popular during

ONE WORD, THREE ORIGINS

The origin of the word “cocktail” is hard to pin down. It may have come from the interesting custom in bars of distinguishing drinks by putting a cockerel’s or rooster’s tail in them. Another hypothesis is that at the turn of the 18th century, people in the Aquitaine region of France drank a cordial called coquetel: wine with water and sugar. Sailors on merchant ships brought the drink to the United States, where the name was Americanized as cocktail. The third theory is that the term dates back to the previous century and the coquetier, the egg cup used by a New Orleans apothecary, Mr Peychaud, to measure out his secret elixir that cured all illnesses.

Prohibition in the United States (1920-1933). Since the only alcohols available at the time were adulterated or of poor quality, they were more palatable when diluted and flavored. Cocktails became a craze as new recipes appeared everywhere to reflect local tastes, such as the margarita in Mexico and the daiquiri in Cuba.

A creative partner Cocktails are now served in top restaurants and paired with the finest foods. But the real innovation is happening behind the bar. Today, there are international mixology competitions, and France introduced the Best Barman awards (Meilleurs Ouvriers de France) in 2011. Mixology has become

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Margarita with Yuzu tea • Cold brew 30g Yuzu tea in 1L water for 90 minutes. Strain. • Fill a shaker to two-thirds full with crushed ice, add 7 cl Tequila, 3 cl Cointreau and 50 cl of the tea. • Rub a slice of lime around the rim of a margarita glass. • Dip the rim in salt. • Shake and serve cold!

an art form in the last decade as cocktails continue to grow in popularity. Having acquired this prestige, tea is being embraced as a unique ingredient in cocktails. Tea is ideal for this purpose, bringing its complex notes to short or long cocktails as well as hot drinks. It enhances the drink by adding more complex and unique flavors and aromas. It can also be used to reduce the amount of alcohol in a cocktail without losing the depth of flavor or aroma, and can even replace alcohol altogether. Prepared in a shaker, tea is an ideal partner for other ingredients that are less easily diluted, such as spirits, syrups, eggs and cream. Tea can be used to make a delicious margarita or a unique gin fizz. When prepared in a mixing glass, tea is best combined with

spirits, liqueurs or vermouth. And when stirred with a spoon, tea makes a great addition to an old fashioned or a Manhattan. Many teas (flavored blends, single-estate teas) will give an interesting new twist to long drinks. You can also make a cocktail directly in the glass: a spritz or a ti’ punch made with tea has a more pronounced bitterness. Making a kir with tea instead of a liqueur reduces the alcohol content while staying true to the concept of the cocktail and the traditional glassware.

tea must be prepared using alternative methods. For example, when tea is brewed cold for a long time, it becomes concentrated and intense. This “essence” can be incorporated into a cocktail in a variety of ways. It can be used to complement, contrast or blend with other ingredients as if by osmosis. Mixology opens up endless possibilities, with many yet to be explored. Further flavor-driven experimentation will lead to fresh and fascinating discoveries!

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Complement, contrast or blend To add flavor and balance to the overall composition when powerful ingredients are involved,

1. Lu Yu was a Chinese writer who lived during the Tang Dynasty. He is famous for his work “Cha Jing”, the “Classic of Tea”, published in 780.

REMARK ABLE TE A

Bai Mu Dan, a subtle, raw white tea An iconic Chinese white tea, Bai Mu Dan (“white peony” in Mandarin) is recognizable by its raw, lightly dried leaves and its characteristic floral, hazelnut notes. Bai Mu Dan is a must for tea lovers. Palais des Thés’ Bai Mu Dan is now organic.

Sometimes known as Pai Mu Tan, Bai Mu Dan comes from Fujian. This region of southeastern China is the birthplace of all tea production methods except green and yellow teas. This iconic tea region is home to many famous teas such as Golden Osmanthus, Silver Needles, Jasmine Pearls and Bai Mu Dan. The harvest traditionally begins in early spring and involves picking the bud and the first two or three leaves of the region’s native cultivar1, Da Bai, or “Great White”. Discovered at the end of the 19th century near the city of Fuding, this large tea plant is covered with downy buds. It

BAI MU DAN → Ref. 1940 − €16 per 100g

is particularly good for making white teas, and is also prized for making delicious green teas, sometimes scented with jasmine.

A natural tea Bai Mu Dan is a very recent tea. It was only in 1922 that producers started picking the first two or three leaves in addition to the bud, unlike Yin Zhen, which is composed solely of buds. The leaves and buds are even in length and resemble flower petals, hence the tea’s evocative name. Its high leaf content gives it a powerful tannic structure, a remarkable powdery texture and a beautiful long finish. Its fresh, floral and vegetal scents transport you elsewhere and are an excellent introduction to the subtle, complex notes of white teas. Bai Mu Dan undergoes minimal processing after harvesting, which is why it is known as a “raw” tea. The leaves are spread out on racks and dried in the sun, then in a well-ventilated room for 36 hours. During this “withering” stage, the tea begins

a very subtle natural oxidation process, but the leaf is not handled or folded, so it takes time. The tea is then dried on bamboo racks in the sun, which fixes the tea’s humidity at around 6%. This is important, because in this subtropical region, the leaves can quickly reach 15% humidity.

A tea for sweet treats Bai Mu Dan is particularly popular in the southern, hotter regions of China where people like to drink it to stay hydrated. Fresh and delicate, it

The freshly picked tea leaves are transported immediately to the factory for processing while they are still fresh.

can be enjoyed throughout the day, especially in the morning and early afternoon as the buds gives it a high caffeine content. When brewed, the tea releases aromas of freshly baked bread. Steeped three times in a gaiwan, the leaves unfurl like peony petals. The straw color of the brew is almost golden, and is as bright as the first floral rose notes in the mouth. These are followed by delicate vegetal, woody and hazelnut notes. With a longer infusion, the tea develops a subtle astringency, so the steep time should be adjusted to taste.

Either way, the tea’s smooth texture enhances its slightly sweet flavor. Although it has similar notes to Yin Zhen, Bai Mu Dan is stronger and has its own distinct character. It can be enjoyed on its own and will reveal all its secrets. It is also an ideal accompaniment to sweet treats. A crunchy, melting meringue goes perfectly with this delicate tea, while its floral and vegetal notes pair well with a fresh fruit salad sprinkled with the last of the season’s red berries, to take you gently into autumn.

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1. A cultivar (“cultivated variety”) is a plant variety obtained by selective breeding.

NEWS

Tasting session at the Tea School to learn all about the second most widely consumed beverage in the world after water.

Classes start up again at the Tea School! Founded in 1999 by François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet, the Tea School is a center of excellence and learning that focuses on tea and the art of tea tasting. All Palais des Thés employees are trained at the Tea School. In order to pass on the culture of this age-old beverage, our courses are also open to all tea lovers. You can expand your knowledge View the autumn program at ecoleduthe.com/paris/

by experiencing the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, learning how to pair teas with food, or refining your tasting technique. We look forward to welcoming you there.

NEWS

Mixing cocktails with tea In recent years, mixology has become a gastronomic art form. Learn the secrets of mixing cocktails with tea in this unique workshop at the Tea School. You will taste and mix exciting cocktail recipes created by our master tea sommeliers. Your guests will be thrilled when you serve them!

Tea-centered cookery and tasting workshops Led by chef Nathaly Ianniello, this tasting workshop, perfectly timed for lunch, will introduce you to a series of seasonal dishes made using tea as an ingredient. Created exclusively for Palais des Thés, these recipes are designed to be easily reproduced at home. If you enjoy cooking, this workshop is for you! Under the guidance of Nathaly and our master tea sommelier, you will prepare three dishes made with tea. This is an excellent way to learn about the value of tea as an ingredient that can add varied and exciting flavors to your dishes.

The art of brewing tea Did you know that you can brew tea more than 10 times? In the Gong Fu Cha workshop, you will learn how to use a gaiwan to bring out the complexity and depth of your favorite Oolongs and Pu Erhs. This method is not well known in Western Europe, but it’s easy to use in everyday life and you will appreciate a whole new world of aromas and flavors with your teas!

PREMIUM TE AS

Flavors of the East Xishuangbanna Yin Zhen → Ref. 2085 – €44 per 100g

This beautiful white tea is produced in Yunnan, a region known for the quality of its Pu Erh. Harvested on a small plantation at an altitude of 1,600 meters, it has delicate apricot and vanilla notes and a subtle hint of honey.

Jingmai Caihong → Ref. 2087 – €32 per 100g

The production of this tea is inspired by Oolong, green tea and white tea. The method creates a unique aromatic profile with an intriguing tea that has delicate vegetal and floral notes.

NEW

1. Wabi cast iron teapot (60cl) → Ref. M260 – €195

2. Les Infusions box → Ref. DCC13 – €38.90

3. Mugicha infusion → Ref. 4120 – €13 per 100g

Your back-to-work kit Make the most of the end of summer and prepare to head back to work or school with this fine selection! LES SOURCES 1. On A Cloud ORGANIC

5. Le Nomade (35 cl) → Ref. Q130 – €30

6. Glass cup (45 cl)

→ Ref. D9310N – €14 for a box of 20 tea bags

→ Ref. N303 – €13

2. In My Bubble ORGANIC → Ref. DV9330Z – €19.90 for a 140g metal caddy

3. The Sound Of Waves ORGANIC → Ref. D9300N – €14 for a box of 20 tea bags

4. Pure Joy ORGANIC

→ Ref. DV9320Z – €18.40 for a 100g metal caddy

3. 2.

Bruits de Palais is published by Palais des Thés

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Sarah Vasseghi

Lucile Block de Friberg, Bénédicte Bortoli, Chloé Douzal, Mathias Minet

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Prototype.paris Translation

Marta Scott

Nicole Foster Styling

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26-27, 29, 35 (top), 36, 37, 38 • Frédéric Lucano: p.34 • Anaël Rouiller: p.35.

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Palais des Thés photo library – François-Xavier Delmas: cover, p.2, 4, 20-21, 24, 32-33, 39 • Manuéla Leriche: p.6, 8, 10-11, 12, 13 • Guillaume Czerw: p.15, 23,

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