Bruits de Palais n°62 - GB

bruits de palais "We have two lives, and the second begins when we realize we have only one."

Confucius

62

October 2013 | n째

Matcha In the creative studio for scented teas What is Rooibos?

Shopping & new items

Contents 3 •

Editorial

4 •

Matcha

8 •

In the creative studio for scented teas

10 •

Tasting notes Long Jing Impérial

12 •

Grands Crus

14 •

What is Rooibos ?

16 •

Shopping & new items

18 •

19 •

Théophile benefits

Recipe

We all discovered tea in our own personal way. If you are reading this today, it may mean that tea came into your life in the same way it did ours.

Enjoying tea, in addition to the pleasure and sensations it offers, sometimes brings out emotions, just like a work of art can move us. Of course we can appreciate a painting or a piece of music without knowing anything about the subject, just as we can be touched by a particular aspect of a tea without knowing everything about its origins, history or specific production.

Yet, when we start to study a work, the way we view it or hear it changes, and we come to appreciate it in a different way. Likewise, when we start to take a closer interest in tea, we rediscover it, we re-taste it from a different perspective, and our appreciation alters, becoming more detailed and more enlightened. We then develop a closer affinity with tea, we feel like we know its secrets and are more strongly drawn to it.

It is this experience we invite you to enjoy too, with tea.

Enjoy your tea!

The team at Palais des ThĂŠs

3 •

Matcha A Japanese speciality, Matcha is a green tea that has been ground to a powder. For a long time it was used exclusively for the tea ceremony, but in recent decades it has become a prized ingredient among great chefs around the world.

Matcha, a descendant of whisked tea During the 12th century, on their return from a study tour to China, the Buddhist monk Eisai and his disciples introduced tea growing to Japan. At the time in China, tea leaves were ground to a powder as fine as flour, which was then whisked into hot water in a bowl.

In Japan, this powder was named Matcha.

The drink of monks, the drink of Buddhists, Matcha initially became appreciated in religious and monastic circles. Very stimulating due to its high theine content, Matcha was the perfect accompaniment to meditation, helping practitioners to remain alert and focused for hours on end. Perhaps for the same reasons, Samurai warriors began drinking Matcha in the 13th century.

A ceremonial tea The practice of whisking tea was gradually abandoned in China, but remained firmly rooted in Japanese society, where it became one of the pillars of the Cha No Yu, the tea ceremony. This ceremony was defined in the 16th century by the famous monk Sen no Rikyu-, formally establishing the connections between tea, Buddhism and the different tea schools. This led to Matcha gaining a new symbolic and mystical significance, and the tea gradually became a national treasure.

In 1835, a new type of green tea, Tencha, produced in Japan using a new growing technique, had a strong impact on Matcha. People stopped making Matcha using standard green tea, and switched to Tencha, a shade-grown tea.

This involved – and still does – covering the tea plants with canvas or straw for three weeks before plucking, thus depriving them of most of their light. The resulting leaves produce uniquely flavoured teas, mellow and round, which develop a particularly powerful umami* flavour.

4 •

* Umami : means “delicious” in Japanese. It is one of the five flavours identified by the palate, along with salty, sweet, acidic and bitter.

No other type of Japanese tea benefitted from such care during production, and so Tencha naturally became the raw material for the most prestigious tea of all: Matcha.

The increasing use of Matcha in cooking In the very early days, Matcha tea was traditionally served with sweet foods. In the tea ceremony, confectionery is shared out to accompany the Matcha, helping to offset the tea's bitterness.

Matcha has also been widely used in Japanese cuisine for a very long time. It is frequently used as an ingredient in red bean Wagashi (Japanese confectionery). Its fragrance is the perfect partner to the rich, sweet flavour of the bean pastes.

It is this culinary use that has led to Matcha's growing popularity in the West.

In the mid-20th century, Matcha was introduced as a flavouring for ice creams. This is one of its most popular uses in Japan. Its combination with milk has also led to it being used in western style drinks such as Matcha latte, hot chocolate with Matcha, and Matcha milkshake. The latter are found in Japan as well as in the West.

Matcha is an essential component of Cha No Yu, the tea ceremony, which is deeply rooted in Japanese culture and tradition.

The green tea leaves are ground in a stone mill until the fine texture of flour is obtained.

5 •

This is a bowl of Usucha (light tea) Matcha: the tea is whisked vigorously until a delicate foam forms on the surface.

Since the end of the 1990s, Matcha has become increasingly prized in western gastronomy: initially used in confectionery, it is now frequently included in savoury dishes too. This culinary success is such that many westerners only know Matcha as a cooking ingredient.

This green tea is a perfect complement to all types of products, both in their natural state and in recipes, as its subtle, refreshing quality enhances and brings out other flavours without masking them. It can also be used as a natural colouring, thanks to its beautiful green hue.

In confectionery, Matcha adds a sweet, mellow quality, bringing out the flavour of chocolate, giving a light, fresh quality to creams and mousses, etc. Matcha can be used in many sweet recipes such as cheesecake, madeleines and sponges, chocolate mousses, and so on. A special culinary Matcha has been developed as the perfect kitchen ingredient.

Matcha is also very popular in savoury dishes. Combined with salt it makes an exceptional condiment; dusted over fish, it enhances its iodine, marine notes; Matcha also lends a unique quality to all flour-based recipes.

Discover our selection of Matcha in our shops or on our website at www.palaisdesthes.com

6 •

Matcha is made using Tencha or Kabusecha (shade-grown tea).

Three weeks before harvest, the tea plants are covered in cloths or straw to filter out the sunlight.

Matcha has many uses in cooking, for both sweet and savoury dishes.

7 •

In the creative studio for scented teas To mark the launch of the new Pure Indulgence blends (Lavender and Cinnamon), François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet invited us to their studio where they develop their scented teas. Discover what goes on behind the scenes as these fine teas take shape.

What was the inspiration that led to the creation of Pure Indulgence?

One day we had the idea of working on the classic scented teas blends. We wanted to dust them off and rid them of the rather fusty image they have often acquired with the big tea brands and supermarkets. Does a lemon tea really have to be so insipid and aimed solely at people who don't like traditional tea? Absolutely not!

How did you go about creating them?

To start with, it was a bit like a game. There are always several of us working on a particular flavoured tea recipe at any one time. We began with the Lemon blend: we allowed each member of the creative team to work without constraints, whether that was in terms of the base tea, the ingredients or even the cost price. In a way we started with a blank canvas and our only aim was to reinvent lemon tea.

We really enjoyed the process, and the chosen recipe has been an incredible success with everyone who has tasted it.

Following this first attempt, we came up with the idea of a collection of teas, each one based around a single ingredient.

Lavender 100 g (3.5 oz) tea canister ref.DV725X.

8 •

So will the collection get bigger?

Yes! Every autumn, Palais des Thés will bring out two new Pure Indulgence blends. This year we are being quite daring, with two unusual teas. The Lavender one is based on a sumptuous floral-vegetal oolong, from the same family as the Tie Guan Yin from Anxi, combined with the finest lavender flowers available to scent it.

The Cinnamon version has a very subtle balance between Pu Erh and natural cinnamon essence. In both cases, the creative process lasted more than a year and included many tests and tastings.

So does that mean you are already in the process of developing the Pure Indulgence for autumn 2014?

Yes – but keep it quiet! It’s still a secret.

Cinnamon 100 g (3.5 oz) tea canister ref.DV724X.

9 •

In Long Jing, the source of the Dragon Well which gave its name to this prestigious tea, as well as the city.

Tasting notes Long Jing Impérial From the hills around the city of Hangzhou, Long Jing or Dragon Well is the best known and most popular green tea among Chinese people.

Dry leaf: Appearance: the leaf is folded into a flat shape, in the traditional Long Jing manner.

Colour: pale green.

Aromas: vegetal, aniseed, liquorice, mineral and fruit.

Infusion: Aromas: vegetal notes evoke cooked vegetables with mineral and nutty scents, followed by subtle toasted aromas. Then comes a very delicate floral accent with marine hints.

Origin: China Colour: green tea Infusion time: 3'-4’ Infusion temperature: 75°-85° / 170°F-185°F

Liquor: Colour: golden yellow.

Texture in the mouth: smooth at first, with a thick feel in the mouth. Astringency develops in the middle of the palate, giving the tea plenty of texture.

Flavours: a touch of sweetness and a delicate acidity.

Aromas: vegetal to start, with cooked vegetable notes (artichoke, courgette), before developing pronounced mineral notes and nutty aromas (chestnut, fresh hazelnut, toasted peanut). The finish is fresh fruit, plum, grape and citrus.

Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: the notes are discernible right from the start. The astringency gives the tea a good structure and liveliness. Lingering mineral, metallic, vegetal aniseed and liquorice notes.

Our opinion: Long Jing Imperial is a magnificent, high quality Long Jing. With its lovely rich bouquet, freshness and length in the mouth, it will delight lovers of this type of tea and all fans of green tea.

A sheer delight!

ref.197.

www.palaisdesthes.com

11 •

Grands Crus Extract from our selection

CHINA - YIN ZHEN SAUVAGE ref.1931

INDIA - DARJEELING THURBO "PURE AV2" S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 – 2013 SECOND FLUSH ref.0184

CHINA - DA YE SAUVAGE ref.2149

INDIA - ASSAM MANGALAM S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 – 2013 SECOND FLUSH ref.051

NEPAL - JUN CHIYABARI HIMALAYAN HAND ROLLED – 2013 SECOND FLUSH ref.0833

12 •

Warning!

All the teas presented in these pages are rare and ephemeral teas, harvested in very small quantities and available at a given moment without the guarantee of a sustained supply. Available until the batch have gone, these teas may therefore go out of stock very quickly.

Also find full details of the tasting notes for these teas on-line at www.palaisdesthes.com

CHINA - YIN ZHEN SAUVAGE A masterpiece of a tea that is one of the most highly regarded in China!

This plucking of Wild Silver Needles (Yin Zhen) is made up exclusively of magnificent downy buds from old tea plants. This unusual batch has an incredibly smooth texture. We love the richness and perfect balance of its aniseed and fruit (citrus) notes, which mingle with wax and leather aromas.

Brilliant – it will delight lovers of this type of tea. ref.1931.

INDIA - DARJEELING THURBO "PURE AV2" S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 – 2013 SECOND FLUSH This is an exceptional Darjeeling second flush from the high-altitude garden at Thurbo. Generous, with downy buds, it is made up exclusively of leaves plucked from AV2 plants, one of our favourite cultivars. A lovely smooth texture underpinned by a delicate astringency, a floral bouquet and sweet, generous notes, make this Pure AV2 Thurbo a brilliant success. Not to be missed! ref.0184.

INDIA - DARJEELING PHUGURI DJ 65 "FLOWER" S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1– 2013 SECOND FLUSH A magnificent second flush, ideal for Darjeeling fans! From the Phuguri garden which we have come to know well, we love this tea for the diversity and richness of its chocolate, vanilla, wood and dried fruit aromas. The lovely finish in the mouth sustains the delicious sweet and sensual notes.

Fantastic! ref.0185.

JAPAN - TAMARYOKUCHA PREMIUM ICHIBANCHA 2013 An exceptional new-season plucking. This new-season Japanese tea has a lovely balance of vegetal and marine notes, typical of Tamaryokucha teas.

It is particularly noteworthy for its delicate fresh hazelnut notes and the powerful finish in the mouth. An unusual and very classy tea. ref.2997.

CHINA - HUANG SHAN MAO FENG 2013 NEW SEASON CHINA GREEN TEA A remarkable green tea, which the Chinese consider the finest of this type. The name “Huang Shan Mao Feng” means “Downy Tips of Yellow Mountains”: for this prestigious batch, only the bud and the first leaf are plucked, then rolled by hand. The tea has a wonderfully supple and smooth texture. Its fresh and delicate vegetal, mineral and floral notes linger over a lovely finish in the mouth. Magnificent!

CHINA - DA YE SAUVAGE This is an unusual plucking from 150 year-old tea plants which grow at an altitude of 2,000 metres in Yunnan province. The tea is made from Da Ye (“Large Leaves”), a plant usually used for Pu Erh production. The nonfermented leaves offer mineral, animal and vegetal notes, sustained by a sweet astringency. Connoisseurs will love it! ref.2149.

ref.2005.

NEPAL - JUN CHIYABARI HIMALAYAN HAND ROLLED 2013 SECOND FLUSH

NEPAL - JUN CHIYABARI HIMALAYAN IMPERIAL BLACK 2013 SECOND FLUSH

A summer plucking with wonderfully rich aromas. The sweet notes succeed one another harmoniously and leave delicious wood, honey and fruit notes lingering in the mouth. A fantastic flavour.

Also from the Jun Chiyabari garden, this lot has a lovely aromatic balance sustained by unusual, powerful notes. The sweet-toothed will love its roasted, fruit and vanilla aromas that linger beautifully in the mouth.

ref.0833.

ref.0834.

NEPAL - GURANSE "FLORAL TIPS" 2013 SECOND FLUSH A very elegant plucking with a round, smooth texture that makes an ideal introduction to the Guranse garden, situated close to one of the highest peaks in the world. Delicious and sweet, it develops the typical notes of a Nepalese summer plucking: wood, honey and spices, softened by citrus notes.

INDIA - ASSAM MANGALAM S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 2013 SECOND FLUSH This remarkable tea with plenty of summer buds is considered one of the best Assams. It is a very fine, smooth black tea with spicy and malty notes.

Connoisseurs will particularly enjoy it in the morning. ref.051.

ref.0832.

Our selection of Grands Crus is renewed and extended in line with our travels and discoveries.

In order to find out about our arrivals as soon as possible, we invite you to register for our newsletter on our website, www.palaisdesthes.com

13 •

What is Rooibos?

Often called “red tea”, Rooibos is an infusion, plain or scented, which has become increasingly popular in recent years. It is completely different from green or black tea, both of which are made with the leaf of camellia sinensis.

Originating from South Africa, Rooibos is not the same as the tea plant, as is apparent from its scientific name Aspalathus linearis. It produces a healthy, delicious and theine-free beverage.

Consumed as an infusion, it is considered South Africa’s national drink. The plant is grown in northern Cederberg, 200 km north of Cape Town.

It grows in bush form up to 1.5 metres high. Its main stem divides into many slender branches covered in pale green leaves as long as needles. Rooibos grows directly in the sand and doesn’t require rain: its roots reach to a depth of up to four metres below ground to find water.

Harvested in the wild and drunk by indigenous populations for more than 300 years, this “red tea” has only been cultivated and sold since the early 1930s.

Harvesting takes place during the first three months of the year, in the summer season. Plants are cut with a sickle at around 30 cm above ground level. The leaves and stems are chopped up and ground by mechanical rollers, then arranged in small piles in an outside courtyard that is humidified. This initiates the oxidisation process and gives the plant its characteristic flavour and beautiful red colour. The leaves are then spread out on the ground and left to dry in the sun.

Lastly, the Rooibos is sieved to remove any soil as well as pieces of stem, then steamed before being packed.

Delicious on its own, Rooibos also makes an excellent base for flavoured teas, which can be enjoyed throughout the evening because of their lack of theine.

Discover our selection of Rooibos in our shops or on our website at www.palaisdesthes.com

14 •

When it is harvested, Rooibos is green. Oxidisation causes the leaf to turn a beautiful red colour.

In South Africa, at Rooibos tastings, the cups are lit up in order to judge the clarity of the liquor.

Rooibos grows in fields surrounded by beautiful South African countryside.

Shopping & New items New: Indulgence tea set with 5 tubes of tea With these box sets, discover five different flavoured teas created by Palais des ThĂŠs.

Each tube contains enough to make a pot of tea for six to eight cups.

Fruity Teas

Floral Teas

ref.DCT05B.

ref.DCT05A.

Spring of London We have created a version of the famous Blue of London using a superb First Flush Darjeeling. Fresh, delicate bergamot along with cornflower and mallow petals blend remarkably well with the delicate notes of the Darjeeling First Flush. A truly exceptional Earl Grey!

Sweet Teas ref.DCT05C.

16 •

ref.893.

Lavender and Cinnamon Pure Indulgende collection

Vacuum flasks and travel mug

(see the interview with François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet, pages 8-9)

Two flasks in sparkling colours to let you enjoy your tea anywhere, any time! Fully leak proof, they can be slipped into a bag to keep your tea hot for more than six hours.

Cinnamon

Take your tea with you out and about, in your hand or in the car, thanks to this travel mug. Its ergonomic shape ensures an easy grip, and it will keep your tea hot for more than two hours.

An unusual and delicious combination, Pure Indulgence Cinnamon marries a magnificent Chinese Pu Erh with a delicate and sweet cinnamon.

Red vaccum flask 0,35 L

100 g (3.5 oz) metal canister

Blue vaccum flask 0,5 L

ref.Q125.

ref.Q126.

ref.DV724X.

Travel mug 0.45 L ref.Q127.

Matcha & lemon “langues de chat” biscuits Enjoy these delicious biscuits with your favourite tea. The special recipe was devised by Palais des Thés, flavoured with culinary matcha and lifted with a hint of lemon.

Lavender

Matcha & lemon “langues de chat” biscuits – 125 g (4.4 oz)

Pure Indulgence Lavender pairs a sumptuous oolong – a Tie Guan Yin tea from Anxi, in China – with the finest quality lavender flowers. The tea’s vegetal notes are enhanced by the powerful fragrance of lavender flowers.

ref.F232.

100 g (3.5 oz) metal canister ref.DV725X.

Washi canisters Discover our new collection of washi canisters for the autumn. They are covered with Japanese paper and will keep your teas fresh in optimal conditions thanks to their double lid!

Canister "Full bloom of plum flower"

Canister "Flowers in early summer rain"

Canister "Square in deep blue"

Canister “Fireworks”

2.8-3.5 oz ref.V147A. 3.5-5.3 oz ref.V147B. 5.3-7 oz ref.V147C.

2.8-3.5 oz ref.V148A. 3.5-5.3 oz ref.V148B. 5.3-7 oz ref.V148C.

2.8-3.5 oz ref.V149A. 3.5-5.3 oz ref.V149B. 5.3-7 oz ref.V149C.

2.8-3.5 oz ref.V146A. 3.5-5.3 oz ref.V146B. 5.3-7 oz ref.V146C.

17 •

Recipe Madeleines flavoured with Earl Grey

Serves 4:

Ingredients 4 tbsp milk 3 tbsp Thé des Lords (or 3 tea bags) 75 g (2.6 oz) butter 2 eggs 75 g (2.6 oz) sugar Salt 125 g (4.4 oz) flour ½ sachet baking powder A muffin-type mould can be used instead of a madeleine mould if necessary.

Preparation 1) Preheat the oven to 85°C / 180°F. 2) Heat the milk.

3) When hot, infuse 1 tbsp (or 1 tea bag) of Thé des Lords for 5 to 8 minutes in the milk.

4) Melt the butter in a bain-marie then leave to cool.

5) In a large bowl, cream the eggs and sugar until light and fluffy.

6) Add the milk to the creamed mixture.

7) Then add a pinch of salt, the flour, baking powder and lastly the melted butter.

8) Using a mortar or a rolling pin, roughly powder 2 tablespoons (or 2 tea bags) of Thé des Lords.

9) Add the powdered tea to the bowl and mix well until all ingredients are incorporated evenly.

10) Fill the moulds to ¾ of their volume.

11) Bake for 15 minutes at 85°C / 180°F.

18 •

The Théophile card The Théophile card gives you access to a number of benefits, available on our website, mail-order purchases and in Palais des Thés stores: - enjoy a 10% discount on all purchases for one year (except books: maximum legal discount of 5% applies), - take advantage of preferential rates for a number of special offers and receive exclusive gifts, - receive our Bruits de Palais newsletter, giving you a sneak preview into new teas and keeping you up-to-date with the latest tea-related news…

- benefit from a special rate and priority access to conferences organised by L’Ecole du Thé.

By spending €80 on loose tea in the year, you automatically renew the benefits of your card for the following year.

Important: each time you visit the shop, remember to present your Théophile Card so that your purchases can be recorded. For all your orders by post or on the Internet, don’t forget to add your code to the order form in the space provided. The Théophile Card cannot be used in the United States.

Our shops AIX-EN-PROVENCE 1 rue Chabrier - 13100 Aix-en-Provence

nouveau

RENNES

3 rue Jules Simon – 35000 Rennes

GRENOBLE

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TOULOUSE

63 rue de la Pomme - 31000 Toulouse

LILLE

6-8 rue du Curé Saint-Etienne - 59800 Lille

BRUXELLES

place de la Vieille Halle aux Blés 45 - 1000 Bruxelles – Belgium

LYON

3 place Saint-Nizier – 69002 Lyon

BRUXELLES

chaussée de Charleroi 25 - 1060 Bruxelles – Belgium

MARSEILLE

57 rue Paradis - 13006 Marseille

DUBLIN

31 Wicklow Street - Dublin 2 – Ireland

MONTPELLIER

37 rue Saint-Guilhem – 34000 Montpellier

LIEGE

rue du Pot d’Or 30 - 4000 Liège – Belgium

MULHOUSE

« La Galerie » - 54 rue Sauvage - 68100 Mulhouse

LJUBLJANA

Stari trg n°11 - 1000 Ljubljana - Slovenia

NANTES

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NAMUR

7 rue du Collège - 5000 Namur - Belgium

NICE

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NEW YORK

194 Columbus Avenue (68th and 69th),

NIMES

2 plan de l’Aspic - 30000 Nîmes

Upper West Side - NY 10023 - United-States

PARIS 3

64 rue Vieille-du-Temple - 75003 Paris

NEW YORK

156 Prince Street, New York, NY 10012 - United-States,

PARIS 6

61 rue du Cherche-Midi - 75006 Paris

OSLO

Hegdehaugsveien 32 - 0351 Oslo – Norway

PARIS 14

25 rue Raymond Losserand - 75014 Paris

OSLO

Sandvika Storsenter Brodtkorpsgate 7 - 1338 Sandvika - Norway

PARIS 16

21 rue de l’Annonciation - 75016 Paris

TEL AVIV

Rehov Dizengoff 131 - 63461 Tel Aviv - Israel

PARIS 17

36 rue de Lévis - 75017 Paris

TOKYO

5-24-2 Okusawa Setagaya-Ku - 158-0083 Tokyo – Japan

STRASBOURG

124 Grand’Rue - 67000 Strasbourg

Mail Order Department 10 rue Mercœur - 75011 Paris

www.palaisdesthes.com

François-Xavier Delmas’ blog: www.discoveringtea.com

19 •

With these box sets, discover five different flavoured teas created by Palais des Thés.

Each tube contains enough to make a pot of tea for six to eight cups.

Sweet Teas - Indulgence tea set with 5 tubes of tea ref.DCT05C.

Photo credits: alais des Thés photographic background: François-Xavier Delmas. Except: Altrendo images p1, Kenyon Manchego p2, p8, p11, p12, p16, p17, p19, p20, Marc Brunet p7, p12, p16, p17, Franck Beloncle p2, p5, p6, Carrie Solomon p7 - Design: A&M Creative Bruits de Palais is printed on paper from sustainably managed forests. It is certified as being whitened whith a chlorine-free bleach. 100% vegetal inks.

New Indulgence tea set with 5 tubes of tea