Bruit de Palais n°73 - EN

We have been travelling the world for 30 years in search of excellence.

bruits de palais « Don't copy nature too closely.

Art is an abstraction; as you dream amid nature, extrapolate art from it and concentrate on what you will create as a result. » Paul Gauguin

73

September 2017 | n°

Thé Gauguin, a blend with an exotic scent.

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Editorial

Palais des Thés celebrates its 30th anniversary

ANNI

I’m very happy with the way tea is viewed today, because it hasn’t always been the case. It wasn’t until the mid-1990s that it really began to spread. This coincided with the trend for home comforts, good food and a better lifestyle, which was promoted by the Slow Food movement in particular.

It is fantastic that tea has become seen as part of gastronomy. I'd like to think that this is partly down to our patient, painstaking efforts, both with farmers, and with chefs. It has allowed us to introduce people to Grands Crus and helped them drink tea at its best. As we have grown, Palais des Thés has supported both its customers and its producers achieve something better.

I don’t know where I’ll be in 30 years’ time. At home in the countryside, or somewhere in the Himalayas! One thing is sure: I will still be in the same business, because I’m even more passionate about tea today than I was 30 years ago!

François-Xavier Delmas, founder of Palais des Thés

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Contents

30

Page 4 ANNI V ERSARY

Palais des Thés, 30 years of passion.

Page 12 gr an d cru selection Sep tember 2017 A particularly varied selection for autumn.

years

Pages 16-17 N EWS New for autumn.

Page 10

Page 18

thé gauguin

COOKING W ITH TEA .

A blend with an exotic scent.

Paul Gauguin - Femmes de Tahiti, NovemberDecember 1891, oil on canvas, 69 cm x 91.5 cm, Paris, Musée d'Orsay, donated by Countess Vitali in memory of her brother Viscount Guy de Cholet, 1923, RF 2765 © Musée d'Orsay, dist. Rmn-Grand Palais / Patrice Schmidt.

The three rules for success when using tea in the kitchen.

b ru i t S d e pa l ais

Photo credits: Palais des Thés photographic background: François-Xavier Delmas. Except: K. Hendel p.1 ; K. Manchego p. 3, p. 8, p. 9, p. 11, p. 13, p. 14, p. 15, p. 16, p. 17, p. 18, p. 19, p. 20 ; Y. Bagros p. 5 ; Nicolas Buisson p. 5 ; Zoran p. 8, p. 9 ; F. Lucano p. 5, p. 6, p. 8 ; P. Cluzeau p. 18 ; Paul Gauguin - Femmes de Tahiti, November-December 1891, oil on canvas, 69 cm x 91.5 cm, Paris, Musée d'Orsay, donated by Countess Vitali in memory of her brother Viscount Guy de Cholet, 1923, RF 2765 © Musée d'Orsay, dist. Rmn-Grand Palais / Patrice Schmidt.

Bruit de Palais is printed on paper from sustainably managed forests. It is certified as being whitened with a chlorine-free bleach. 100% vegetable inks.

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30 years of Palais des Thés

Palais des Thés, 30 years of passion Without looking too much to the past, which is not really his cup of tea, François-Xavier Delmas, founder of Palais des Thés, is happy to see how much has changed in 30 years. “At the time, tea bags were the future.

I made my friends laugh when I talked about quality!”

Since then, attitudes have changed. Today, there is a greater emphasis on natural values, wellbeing and authenticity, and tea has benefited from this.

Palais des Thés has played an important role in this revolution. Thanks to the care it takes with sourcing as well as training, through The Tea School, publications and the Tea Sommelier diploma, tea has become part of gastronomy and is attracting a devoted following among enthusiasts and high-profile chefs.

1987 to 2017: three decades of passion, discovery and education that have changed the world of tea beyond recognition.

30 years

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ny a m s a cing u d o r t ible n s I s o p s a people nest teas to the fi

Discovering tea, discovering people

ds n e l b d e r ou Flav

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30 years of Palais des Thés

Introducing as many people as possible to the finest teas The venture started with François-Xavier Delmas, a young intern in IT journalism, who was saddened that there was nowhere in Paris for people to gather to learn about and taste tea. So he brought together close friends and relations who were, like him, passionate about tea, to introduce French people to the incredible variety of flavours and cultures offered by this drink. In 1987 they opened their first shop, in Paris, and François-Xavier Delmas soon began travelling the world to learn more about singleestate and Grands Crus.

Since the very beginning of Palais des Thés, François-Xavier Delmas and his colleagues have been keen to educate people about tea.

1999

he Tea School

Creation of T

In 1994, they published their first edition of Bruits de Palais, to introduce Palais des Thés’ most popular teas to its growing clientele, who were eager to learn more about their favourite drink.

A few years later, François-Xavier teamed up with Mathias Minet, who had joined the company in the late 1990s, to set up The Tea School to pass on their tea-tasting skills to the public and professionals. Two years later, Palais des Thés launched the first online shop selling tea in France, bringing this popular drink to a wider public.

2007

First edition of Guide de dégustation de l'amateur de thé*

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With their growing expertise, François-Xavier and Mathias set about writing a book on tea-tasting, published in 2007. It has since become a respected guide on the topic. Tasting thousands of teas every year, the authors were proud to share their knowledge and passion. This clear, educational publication provides essential information on tasting tea, and offers a guide to the 50 teas they judge to be the best in the world. In 2015, the creation of the Tea Sommelier diploma consolidated Palais des Thés’ educational approach in a high-level qualification for professionals.

1994its de Palais

* Le Guide de dégustation de l'amateur de thé REF.L027.

n of Bru First editio

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Discovering tea, discovering people François-Xavier Delmas is one of those fortunate individuals whose passion is also their career – in his case, the rare role of “tea researcher”.

For 30 years he has been visiting plantations in search of the finest, rarest teas, which are made available in small batches through Palais des Thés. These travels also introduced him to wonderful Grands Crus from Malawi and Nepal, for example.

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As well as discovering tea, François-Xavier has also learnt about the different cultures of the world. His trips have allowed him to foster strong relations with his suppliers, based on trust and respect.

In Darjeeling, a low-altitude plot on the North Tukvar plantation has been named the Delmas Bari garden, reflecting the longstanding partnership between the planter, G. Somani, and Palais des Thés' founder, built up over many years.

1997

The Delmas Bari garden (Darjeeling)

More about the blog: Discovering Tea

This is a 21st century travel journal. François-Xavier Delmas has a talent for describing people and countries through tea. His tales from around the globe allow you to share the experience of his encounters with small producers.

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30 years of Palais des Thés

Flavoured blends These refined blends are created by Palais des Thés with the same care and attention to detail that it applies to the selection of its single-estate and Grands Crus.

1999

Thé du Ha

mmam* cr

eation

Innovative, delicate and elegant: each combination created over the past 20 years by Mathias Minet in the Paris workshop of Palais des Thés is a gastronomic composition.

Tea-taster and blender Mathias Minet has created such gems as Thé du Hammam, inspired by the steam rooms of Istanbul and one of the company's signature blends. He also came up with the Pure Indulgence range, which celebrates the marriage between the aromatic notes of a precious tea and natural extracts of flowers, fruit and plants. Mathias relies on his intuition, like a great chef, and draws inspiration from his travels and his imagination, always looking for the perfect balance between flavours. Guided by his experience, Mathias has expanded his repertoire of creations with caffeine-free blends in two collections: the Garden collection of richly flavoured herbal teas of fruit and flowers, and l’Herboriste, original blends based on aromatic plants, with relaxing and wellbeing qualities. Every herbal tea is magical in its own way, and is appreciated at different times of day, in different situations.

2014

Launch of the Garden collection

d f Pure In

Launch o

8

2012ulgence range

* Thé du Hammam REF. 861.

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Tea at the table

Jasmin Pearls*

Although it is customary in Asian countries, accompanying food with tea has been slow to catch on in the West, where it used to be thought odd, for a drink associated with brief moments of refreshment throughout the day. Today, it is common knowledge that certain combinations of tea and food work to perfection. In recent years, Palais des Thés has been promoting pairings of its teas with sweet and savoury dishes. For example, Jasmin Pearls, a Chinese green tea that is closely associated with the brand, goes perfectly with red fruit in a mousse or sorbet, or with the milky, buttery notes of cocoa. Meanwhile, second-flush Darjeelings complement hard cheeses such as Beaufort and Comté.

To develop this area further, FrançoisXavier Delmas and Mathias Minet pooled their expertise to serve an emerging career, the tea sommelier. In 2016, they co-wrote an entertaining and educational book with 160 illustrated lessons on tea and food, including the best pairings, and rules for using tea in the kitchen.

2016

Book Tea so

mmelier**

* Jasmin Pearls REF. 248. ** Tea sommelier : le thé en 160 leçons illustrées REF. L031.

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Event

A flavoured tea in homage to Paul Gauguin To accompany the exhibition “Gauguin, l'alchimiste” at the Grand Palais in Paris, Palais des Thés has created a special flavoured blend inspired by the Polynesian islands, in collaboration with the Réunion des Musées Nationaux.

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Thé Gauguin - canister 100 g Ref. DV811Z

Art and tea are natural partners – there are many similarities between the two fields. Each, in its own way, speaks to the mind, the senses, the imagination. For several years, Palais des Thés has been working closely with the Réunion des Musées Nationaux on their major cultural events. Both parties have the same purpose: to introduce as many people as possible to the best, whether this means the best teas or the best culture. In 2012, Palais des Thés created the Thé Guimet, a refined blend of cherry blossom and citrus, to mark the exhibition on the history of tea at the Musée Guimet.

Then, for the Hokusai exhibition at the Grand Palais in 2014, it created a special fresh, delicately flavoured tea. The famous print, “The Great Wave off Kanagawa”, by the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai, provided the inspiration for Mathias Minet, who has been creating flavoured blends for Palais des Thés for 20 years. His response was a green tea full of contrasts and freshness, like The Great Wave itself, mingling notes of ginger, citrus and flowers.

In Gauguin’s footsteps

to be the cultural highlight of the season, it has asked Palais des Thés to create an exclusive, limited-edition tea that will allow visitors to extend the experience of the painter's work through flavours and the senses. This retrospective focuses particularly on Gauguin's final years, his life in Tahiti and then on Hiva Oa, one of the Marquesas Islands. There, at Atuona Bay, in his “House of Pleasure”, he painted many of his best-known works, including the voluptuous Polynesian women. For Palais des Thés, Mathias Minet has created a delicate and sweet tea that takes your senses on a journey, a fragrant blend inspired by the exotic and sensual colours of Gauguin's paintings. This unique combination of deliciously flavoured green and black teas offers notes of almond and vanilla that evoke the famous Tahitian gardenia worn by Tahitian women, as well as almond milk and jasmine. As for the canisters, they are adorned with a famous work by the artist – perhaps they too may become collectors’ pieces one day! The Thé Gauguin will be available as a limited-edition from 11th October.

As the first frosts appear, it will be delightful to sip this tea and dream of sunshine in the Marquesas.

Now, the Réunion des Musées Nationaux has called on Palais des Thés’ expertise once again. For the Gauguin exhibition that will take place in autumn 2017 at the Grand Palais, which promises

Thé Gauguin

“Gauguin, l’alchimiste’’ EXHIBITION. 11 October 2017 to 22 January 2018 at the Grand Palais, PARIS.

Paul Gauguin - Femmes de Tahiti, November-December 1891, oil on canvas, 69 cm x 91.5 cm, Paris, Musée d'Orsay, donated by Countess Vitali in memory of her brother Viscount Guy de Cholet, 1923, RF 2765 © Musée d'Orsay, dist. Rmn-Grand Palais / Patrice Schmidt.

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Grands Crus selection

Grands Crus selection September 2017

We have prepared a particularly diverse selection for the autumn, which will introduce you to Grands Crus with very different aroma profiles depending on their colour, time of harvest and origins. The newcomers in this selection come from South Korea and Vietnam, with three incredible teas. We have also included the last Ichibanchas of the season – Japanese new-season green teas that offer a wonderful freshness. Lastly, try two premium teas that are typical of the finest second-flush (summer) harvests, from Darjeeling and Nepal.

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Unusual Grands Crus South Korea – green Jukro An exceptional Grand Cru that is aromatic and intense yet delicate, and stands out for its complexity and richness. Its umami flavour and deliciously creamy, velvety texture sustain a wide variety of notes throughout the tasting, with a succession of vegetal, marine, fruity, vanilla, floral and menthol notes. The tasting finishes with a magnificent touch of sweetness over an underlying buttery quality. Without doubt one of the best green teas from South Korea!

REf. 283A17. 100g (3.5OZ)

South Korea – Jejudo Grand Oolong Impérial South Korea does not generally produce Oolongs; this Grand Cru is an exception. This wonderful discovery appealed to us with its smooth, thick texture that brings out powerful, generous aromas which linger in the mouth. There is a delicious succession of fruity, burnt, woody, spicy, liquorice, floral and buttery notes. A rare tea that must be tried!

REf. 2880. 100g (3.5OZ)

Vietnam - Tra Co Thu Hong Tra Xoan This very rare tea from the far north of Vietnam was produced using leaves from one-hundred-year-old tea trees. This Grand Cru reveals intense cocoa notes that linger in the mouth, accompanied by notes of black fruit, hazelnut and toast. Its slightly bitter flavour brings out the chocolatey notes and seems to echo the bitterness of the cocoa.

REf. 3307. 100g (3.5OZ)

Attention!

All the teas featured on these pages are Grands Crus harvested in very small quantities, available for a specific and limited time with no guarantee of future availability. Available until the batch has gone, these teas may suddenly go out of stock.

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Grands Crus selection The last Japanese Ichibanchas of 2017 Mr Shoji's Tawaramine Shincha Known for his exceptional Shinchas, Mr Shoji brings us what is undoubtedly one of the finest teas produced in Shizuoka. This passionate farmer, whose garden is located in the well-known high mountains of Tawaramine, processes his teas with exceptional care and attention. These leaves have been processed very delicately and are remarkably refined. Initially smooth and creamy, this Shincha then offers a lovely finish in the mouth with complex aromas. The superbly well-balanced liquor combines vegetal, fruity, marine and vanilla notes. Don’t delay in trying it!

REf. 3071A17. 100g (3.5OZ)

Kagoshima Surugawase Shincha This high-quality Shincha comes from the island of Kyushu. It is a delicate green tea with a smooth, creamy, velvety texture and a subtle umami flavour. It offers delightfully rich aromas with varied vegetal notes that make way for marine, iodine notes. The tasting finishes with fresh, menthol and aniseed notes that linger in the mouth, sustained by a delicate astringency.

REf. 3068A17. 100g (3.5OZ)

TAMARYOKUCHA PREMIUM The delicately rolled leaves of this Tamaryokucha from Miyazaki prefecture transport us to a place between land and sky. This rich, intense Grand Cru has powerful, harmonious iodine and marine notes as well as a variety of vegetal, fruity and floral notes that develop in a continuous succession. The velvety texture gives the tea a good presence and a lovely finish in the mouth, with pronounced vegetal and menthol notes.

REf. 3072A17. 100g (3.5OZ)

Second-flush teas DARJEELING, INDIA - LIZAHILL DJ14 S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 CLONAL MUSK This Grand Cru has a fragrance that evokes the smooth fruity scent of Muscat grapes. This particularly rare bouquet is created by an insect, the jassid, whose bite alters the chemical composition of the leaf. After oxidisation, this creates unusual fruity, woody notes. Very few plantations in Darjeeling are capable of bringing out this bouquet with perfectly managed processing. The tea reveals powerful aromas right from the start, with sweet honey, woody notes that develop over vanilla and floral hints, which are sustained for a long time in the mouth thanks to the slight astringency. An evocative journey for the senses.

REf. 0183A17. 100g (3.5OZ)

Nepal - Tinjure Gold We love this Grand Cru for its sweet, intense notes of cooked fruit, nuts, waxed wood and honey, and for its delicately sweet flavour. The slight astringency ensures the delicious notes linger for a long time in the mouth.

REf. 0835A17. 100g (3.5OZ)

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Our selection of Grands Crus is constantly evolving and expanding as we discover new teas and gardens on our travels.

To find out about our new arrivals as soon as possible, please sign up for our newsletter via our website palaisdesthes.com

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Tasting note Namring Upper Ex 146 Clonal Exotic Origin: Darjeeling, India Colour: black tea Water temperature: 85°C / 185°F Infusion time: 4’ Quantity for the teapot: 6g (0.2 OZ) per 30cl REf. 0181A17. 100g (3.5OZ)

Nestled at an altitude of nearly 1,400 metres, the famous Namring garden maintains its reputation this year with another delicious second-flush tea. Produced from clonal tea plants, this is one of the best teas of summer 2017!

Dry leaf: Appearance: small rolled leaves with a few buds.

Colour: dark brown.

Aromas: bread crust, nutty, woody.

Infusion: Aromas: woody (waxed wood), fruity (cooked fruit, raisin), burnt.

Liquor: Colour: coppery.

Texture in the mouth: a lovely astringency that gives this tea its liveliness.

Flavours: a delicate acidity and a slight bitterness at the back of the mouth.

Aromas: very spicy and woody, with notes of waxed wood, flowers and cooked fruit, apple, raisin and a hint of almond.

Aromatic profile and finish in the mouth: an intense start, developing spicy, woody notes. Delicious fruity notes linger in the mouth for a long time.

Our opinion: This is a simply delicious tea. Its liveliness and fullness in the mouth give it plenty of elegance and smoothness. The wonderful astringency of this tea and its rich and complex aromatic bouquet, sustained by spicy, woody and fruity notes, will delight fans of second-flush Darjeelings.

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Dans cette boite le meilleur du thé découvrez une sélection de • Grands Crus • Thés d’origine • Thés parfumés • Infusions pour vous faire vivre une expérience unique et vous initier aux plaisirs de la dégustation.

Vous retrouverez également une cuillère doseuse et des filtres en papier pour une préparation en toute simplicité.

Bonne dégustation !

In this tea set experience a selection of • Grands Crus • Single-estate teas • Flavoured blends • Herbal teas Enjoy a unique experience while learning to appreciate the pleasures of tea tasting.

The set also includes a measuring spoon and paper filters to simplify preparation.

Enjoy!

Crédits photographiques : Fond photographique Palais des Thés (François-Xavier Delmas), Frédéric Lucano, Nicolas Bisson, Kenyon Manchego.

Latest neuıs from Palais des Thés

GUIDE DE

DÉGUSTATION TASTING GUIDE

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The Best of Tea: a neuı canister to introduce you to the delights of drinking tea Rare teas sourced from famous and unknown producers alike… delicate and bold flavoured blends… For 30 years, Palais des Thés has been introducing you to the finest teas, and revealing its many fascinating qualities.

Now, we have designed this new canister, a clever twist on the big green canisters we use in our stores.

Inside, you will find a selection of 12 of our finest teas and infusions, in a variety of colours and flavours: Grands Crus: Jukro and Jasmin Pearls,

Single-estate teas: Long Jing Impérial, Sencha Ariake, Grand Yunnan Impérial, Milky Oolong, Pu Erh Impérial,

Flavoured teas: Blue of London, Thé du Hammam, Chai Impérial, Infusions: l’Herboriste n°46, Tropical garden.

This assortment has been put together to offer a unique tasting experience, revealing an astonishing palette of delicious flavours.

The measuring spoon and paper filters make it easy to prepare these delectable brews.

A tasting guide with a description of each tea and infusion is included in the canister to help you enjoy and appreciate every cup.

REF. V012EN. CANISTER OF THE best of TEA

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Palais des Thés

x

Air France: uıelcome aboard!

Air France wants to offer customers an upmarket travel experience that combines comfort, luxury and gastronomy. Now, it offers a selection of Palais des Thés teas and infusions to its Business Cabin customers.

Our company is proud to support this prestigious airline with its skill and expertise. Faithful to our promise to help people savour the finest teas, we have carefully selected six different teas to offer a variety of flavours and origins, presented in an exclusive box set. Thé des Lords, Thé du Hammam, Darjeeling Margaret’s Hope, Green Tea with Mint, Sencha Ariake and l’Herboriste N°46 are now available to Air France Business Cabin passengers, a delicious contribution to help them enjoy a pleasurable and comfortable flight.

Enjoy the comforts of Business Cabin at home! From 13 September it will be possible to offer your guests a choice of the finest teas, with the Most-Loved Teas selection box. 36 muslin tea bags made from hand-stitched cotton, containing six whole-leaf teas that represent the most popular choices in our range: four of our finest flavoured blends (Thé du Hammam, Vive le thé !, Blue of London and Chai Impérial) and two superlative single-estate teas (Sencha Ariake and Darjeeling Margaret’s Hope).

It is the ideal selection box to give or to keep: an elegant and easy way to enjoy the finest teas at home!

REF. DCC04. « MOST-LOVED TEAS BOX SET » 36 TEA BAGS Available from 09/13/2017 in all our stores.

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Tea in the kitchen

The basics of cooking uıith tea Tea is not only a delicious and healthy drink, it is also a flavoursome ingredient that is increasingly being used in cooking. Tea can be incorporated into different types of dishes in the form of both the infused liquor and the dry leaves, whole or ground.

Here are three principles to apply when using tea in the kitchen.

PRINCIPLE 1

PRINCIPLE 3

Replace water with tea.

To add extra flavour, when you are following a recipe that requires water or a liquid, replace it with tea.

Treat your taste buds by cooking rice or vegetables with spiced tea, deglazing the pan with a Taiwanese Oolong after frying a fillet steak, or adding Grand Yunnan Imperial to a chicken halfway through cooking, for example.

Use the leftover tea in the pot.

If you do not finish up all the tea in the pot, use the remaining liquor in a dish you are cooking, or add it to a dressing, for a particularly flavoursome note.

PRINCIPLE 2 Tea does not have to be infused in water.

Add flavour by infusing tea in milk or single cream. Remember to adapt the quantity of tea and the infusion time to the temperature of the liquid.

Infusing tea in cream or emulsions is an exciting way to update traditional recipes.

Find more advice on cooking with tea in the book “TEA SOMMELIER, le thé en 160 leçons illustrées’’ (in French) by François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet.

Ref. L031.

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Our shops

PARIS 8

18 rue Tronchet - 75008 Paris

IN FRANCE:

PARIS 9

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PARIS 14

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NEW

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NEW

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VINCENNES

LILLE

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IN THE WORLD:

LYON

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NEW

BRUSSELS

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NAMUR

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OSLO

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PARIS 3

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François-Xavier Delmas’ blog discoveringtea.com

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The Best of Tea: canister of essential teas Discover The Best of Tea, a selection* of 12 of our finest teas and infusions with preparation accessories, packaged for the first time in Palais des ThÊs’ iconic large green canister. Perfect to give or to keep!

REF. V012EN. canister of the Best of Tea

Find our canister of The Best of Tea in-store and at palaisdesthes.com *see the article on p.16 for the list of teas included

Savour the best of tea

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