Bruits de Palais 82 EN by PALAIS DES THES

The magazine from Palais des Thés

Issue 82

Spring 2021

EDITORIAL

Revolution at the Palais! We are delighted to present issue 82 of Bruits de Palais, which introduces a whole new look for the magazine, as well as additional sections. Since 1994, Bruits de Palais has kept you updated on our news, our passions and our travels to distant countries in search of the finest teas. It started out as a simple newsletter printed in black and white, befitting our humbler status at the time. Over the years, the magazine has evolved, gaining colour and column inches along the way. François-Xavier Delmas Founder, Palais des Thés

With Bruits de Palais, we have kept you informed on the latest teas to arrive and the new regions we have visited. We have taken you on journeys to meet the farmers and artisans who are so important to us. We have helped you to appreciate tea, especially premium pluckings, through the many tasting notes detailed on these pages over the years. We have also encouraged you to use tea as an ingredient in your cooking. We have revealed many aspects of tea, yet there remains so much to explore! So we decided to revamp the magazine and to bring you even more information through articles, photos and travel journals. Our roots and mission remain the same, however. We want to showcase the finest teas to as many people as possible, and most of all, we want to pass on our passion for this wonderful beverage. We are here to guide you as you learn all about tea and how best to appreciate it.

Cover

These freshly picked jasmine flowers will be mixed in with the tea leaves in a few hours. Opposite

Some tea gardens in the mountains are situated on extremely steep slopes, which demand acrobatic feats when it comes to picking the leaves. Shown here: Nepal.

With this new edition we want to take you further, to tell you more about what we do, and share the knowledge we are so fortunate to have acquired over the years. Much of the space will be devoted to our researchers’ travels, our tea sommeliers’ favourite teas and our experts’ knowledge. We will also give space to other connoisseurs, people who specialise in particular aspects of our favourite beverage. Last but not least, we will tell you about our company’s socially and environmentally conscious efforts and commitments, and our team’s roles and responsibilities. Let’s turn this new page together. We hope you enjoy reading Bruits de Palais as much as we have loved creating it for you.

Issue 82 • Spring 2021

CONTENTS T R AV E L J O U R N A L

PLANET TE A

G R OW I N G T E A

B y L éo Per r in

Remember to refill!

Secrets of the tea plant

In the forests of Thailand 6

The carbon footprint of a cuppa 18

ONE TEA, ONE TEA SOMMELIER

T E A I N T H E K I TC H E N

TELL ME MORE

B y Manuel a L er iche

Carrots and hazelnut crumble with Thé des Lords

B y Bénédicte Bor toli

Tasting session: Qingjing Oolong 26

The history of tea and cocoa 30

E XC E P T I O N A L T E A

NEWS

Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls), an ancient craft

All the Palais news 34

CONTRIBUTORS

Léo Perrin

Bénédicte Bortoli

Manuela Leriche

Léo visits plantations around the world to source the finest teas. He is passionate about sharing the fruits of his travels and encounters.

Bénédicte is an editor who also writes illustrated books on food. She often works with chefs.

Manuela is an expert tea sommelier who is brilliant at talking about tea in an engaging, accessible way.

TR AVEL JOURNAL

In the forests of Thailand In recent months, we have had a number of opportunities to find new producers in Thailand. Following a fortunate encounter, and with the aim of expanding our selection from the Golden Triangle, I set off in search of the finest teas that grow By Léo Perrin in the mountains of Thailand.

he mountains are revealed one by one as the plane flies over them. I can see the traditional akha houses, the rice terraces, the dense forests, and I imagine the animals that inhabit them, the trees that populate them. We land with a jolt on the tarmac. I am in Chiang Mai, the “Rose of the North”, Thailand’s second-largest city (if we consider the Bangkok metropolitan area as a single city), although its population is 50 times smaller than the capital’s. After a few formalities at the airport, I head for the old fortified city. On the way I pass many Buddhist temples, mainly white, some gold. The city is steeped in tradition. The young Buddhist priests in their saffron robes mess around while the delicate aromas from street vendors’ stalls waft through the air. Every time I come here the atmosphere moves me. As soon as I arrive, my quest begins. First, I meet Kim in one of the city’s cafes. Kim is a Thai woman I met through a Chinese tea producer. She knows the region well, and will be able to help with my research. After the habitual greetings, Kim offers me some useful information on potential leads for sourcing some very special teas. “There might be someone near Phayao,” she reveals. “I can find the contact details for you. I can’t be sure though, as it’s a very old tea production region and there are just a few factories still operating.” Then she adds: “There’s also Edward, who you probably know, in Wawee. You should go and see him!” An unusual farmer

Chatchanamongkol in the wild tea plantation in Phayao.

The next day, I make a quick call to Chatchanamongkol, a producer in Phayao, to let him know I’m coming, then I hop on a local bus and head off to this region that is new to me. In Thailand, especially in the Golden Triangle, buses are my favourite means of travel. Although they aren’t comfortable, the routes they take are a good way to soak up local life. We pass through villages that exude a simple charm. I meet locals and discover crafts long forgotten in the West. I breathe in the fragrance of local flora, aromas of food being cooked for travellers, the lingering smell of rain after the monsoon. The bus takes five hours to reach its destination. Chatchanamongkol arrives with his partner and his father. He wants to take me to see his tea gardens. We squeeze into a Jeep and set off across the mountains. As we bump along, he explains that he has several jobs: tea producer, potter and postman!

TR AVEL JOURNAL

We stop in the middle of the forest and set off on foot to explore the plantation. The location is stunning; there is such potential here. The tea plants grow wild on the mountainside, sheltered by the tropical canopy. The environment feels remarkably pure. Butterflies linger, birds with vibrant plumage whistle in the fresh air. The tea plants I see are very old, their roots anchored solidly in the ground. I imagine I’m walking through paradise, surrounded by the precious leaves. As we walk, I’m already dreaming of tasting the tea produced by this garden. I’m so ecstatic and enthusiastic, I almost forget to ask my guide some essential questions. “How many kilos do you produce a year?” “One or two.” “One or two tonnes, you mean?” “No, one or two kilos.” “You’re really a tea producer?” “ Yes! I found this garden abandoned in the forest. I sometimes harvest a few leaves, and I make the tea at home. I produce that kilo with my own hands. That makes me a producer, right?” This is one aspect of the work of a tea researcher. Before finding what we’re looking for, we search, over and over, without certainty or guarantees. It’s not a failure, it’s a step – albeit unexpected – in this incredible quest for something truly exceptional. The next bus back to Chiang Rai doesn’t leave until the morning, so I spend the rest of the evening with this kind and hospitable family. Being a tea researcher also involves spending time with the people we visit, our hosts who share a bit of their lives with us.

Meeting Edward in Wawee It is time to return to Chiang Rai, from where I will set off again to Wawee where I hope to find Edward, a farmer I met three years ago. Every year, I go to the moped hire shop in the city centre, not far from the impressive glittering clock tower. This time I’m heading south, to discover new landscapes… and some surprising local specialities. In one of the many cheap roadside cafes, I order the dish of the day: ant larvae omelette. It’s a protein-rich feast! At last I get to Wawee, and find Edward in his big factory.

THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE, THE BIRTHPLACE OF TEA

Northern Thailand, and more widely, the Golden Triangle (Southern China, Thailand, Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam), is said to be the birthplace of tea. This mountainous region covering thousands of square miles is home to different ethnic groups who have grown tea for millennia. These people, including the Palaung, Lahu, Lisu and Hmong, crossed the mountains and settled in communities, spreading their tea farming tradition from one mountainside to another. It is these people, who have remained in the shadows for too long, excluded from the history of tea, to whom we owe the exquisite flavours and aromas in our tea cups.

CARNET DE VOYAGE

An abandoned tea garden in Phayao, reached after walking several miles through a dense forest

CARNET DE VOYAGE

I first met him by chance, while strolling through this multi-ethnic village. Drawn to the smell of fresh tea leaves, I retraced my steps, curious to find the source of the aromas. Back then, Edward had shown no interest in exporting his tea, although it was delicious. The year we met, and the one after, he didn’t want to work with Europe, preferring to trade with China as his father had done before him. He did, however, explain the intricacies of the Chinese market to me. Wawee’s proximity to the Chinese border attracted many unscrupulous Chinese buyers who sourced tea from Thailand to blend with their own or to sell in China under a false description. This system, while profiting some, meant Thailand never benefited from the quality reputation of its teas, a glory that was instead claimed by undeserving parties. This frustration has been felt in recent years in this country, as well as in other regions of South Asia, where this practice is common. Kim had told Edward I was in the area, so he isn’t surprised to see me in the village. He warmly invites me to take a seat in his magnificent tasting room, where he performs the Gong Fu Cha ceremony on beautiful hand-crafted dishes. Edward was born in Thailand to Chinese parents. His ancestors were among the nationalists who fled Mao’s China in the fifties and settled in Myanmar with the aim of co-ordinating their resistance. Chased out of the country ten years later, some decided to live in Thailand, particularly in Mae Salong 1, not far from Wawee, where we have already been buying tea for many years. A few then left to settle

Thailand is full of hidden treasures.

Edward in Wawee, with his 400-year-old tea tree.

TR AVEL JOURNAL

Edward’s tea factory in Wawee, where the leaves are drying on large trays.

* 2017 Mao Cha, Wawee → Ref. 3211 – €38 per 100g (limited quantities)

** Deang Wawee → Ref. 3212 – €32 per 100g (limited quantities)

in neighbouring villages. Here, tea is prepared as it is in Yunnan, with a gaiwan and a few cups. The tea flows liberally and the water runs into a bucket beneath the table. So many cups are poured that I feel drunk on theine. After sharing several litres of tea, Edward explains that he thought it would be too complicated to export his tea to Europe. But this year the pandemic has prevented the Chinese buyers from coming to see him, so he decides to take the next step and work with me, and sell his precious tea in France. This means his tea will be sold under his own name, and that of his country, Thailand. At last, after three years, Edward agrees to this long-awaited partnership. Now we just need to choose the teas. Together, we taste several, and two in particular attract my attention. First, a splendid 2017 Mao Cha* with scents of honey and apricot and an intoxicating floral finish. Then, a wonderful black tea** with large, twisted leaves that have been dried on racks in the sun. It is full-flavoured and woody. Next, we visit the garden. Here, as is often the case in Thailand, the tea plants are not clipped evenly and don’t form a “plucking table”. The plants are positioned with no real attention to the distance between them. Their trunks have grown thick due to being cut back, and the branches are pruned into large lopsided spheres. Edward’s oldest tea tree is said to be 400 years old, and he looks small standing next to this giant. Thailand is full of hidden treasures. On this trip, this incredible region has revealed yet more sublime surprises. The people who are the backbone of this country – whether they are Thai, Han, Lahu, Akha or Palaung – make quality teas that we will continue to seek out for the delectation of connoisseurs. We can continue to hope for some delicious teas in the months, years and decades ahead from these plantations and these hands.

•

1. See the article The teas of Mae Salong in Bruits de Palais issue 44.

PL ANET TE A

REMEMBER TO REFILL! Buying produce loose and package-free is an age-old tradition. Today, it is one of the ways we can help reduce food and plastic waste. Selling tea in loose-leaf form is an obvious choice.

n recent years, buying produce loose and package-free has gained popularity. In France it is encouraged by Réseau Vrac, an organisation formed in 2016, and the zero-waste movement, coupled with growing awareness among consumers. Buying produce loose means buying it without packaging, or with very little packaging, and storing it in reusable, sustainable containers. This is part of an underlying trend. In 2019, 88% of organic shops and 70% of supermarkets had a refill / package-free section. Package-free: a sustainable, more beneficial approach Reducing waste, particularly plastic, is a major concern for most people as we all grow more aware of the environmental challenges that face us. Buying products package-free and reusing containers is a smart way to produce less waste and reduce the amount of polluting packaging that goes into our bins. Package-free also means we can just buy the quantity we need and avoid waste. Every year, French people throw away an average of 29 kg of food each, including 7 kg of products still in their packaging. Buying only the quantity we need is a good way to reduce our waste considerably and become more responsible consumers.

WHAT ABOUT TEA BAGS? In 1908, in the United States, Thomas Sullivan had the idea of sending his customers tea in silk bags, which were less expensive than the metal caddies used at the time. The tea bag was born out of a practical and financial need. In 1929, the German Adolf Rambold added string to the bags, to make them easier to use. This invention revolutionised tea drinking in the West. The use of tea bags spread across the globe and became the norm. While our cotton tea bags are useful for taking your favourite teas wherever you go, while staying in a hotel, for example, try to use loose-leaf whenever you can!

173

kg of packaging waste produced per year and per household in Europe*

5,550

tonnes less packaging will be used in the European Union** in 2023, due to the sale of package-free products

Although 40% of French people buy packagefree products, this type of consumption only represents 0.75% of the national market.*** * Sources: page 38

ENGAGÉS À NOS CÔTÉS

PL ANET TE A

Remembering to refill is kind to our planet In the past, tea was always sold loose, by weight. It is one of those products that lends itself particularly well to this approach. It is a solid and dry material, and stored in the right conditions will last for several months. Loose-leaf tea also allows the leaves to be kept whole, a mark of quality. Palais des Thés encourages its customers to buy loose-leaf and refill their canisters whenever possible, in order to drastically reduce the amount of packaging used. At Palais des Thés, customers can refill their tea canisters directly in our stores, with no additional packaging required. This environmentally friendly approach encourages customers to return with their own container and buy just the essential: tea.

The best way to store tea At Palais des Thés, we can use the containers we have at home again and again, and refill them with our favourite teas. There are, however, a few simple rules. One is to store tea in an opaque container, because when exposed to light, tea not only dries out but also loses its colour and aromas. The container should be airtight to stop the tea from oxidising or absorbing other smells. It should be stored in a dry place so the tea does not go mouldy. The container should be clean and odourless, of course, so the tea does not absorb any smells. You might want to treat yourself to one or more of the canisters in the Palais des Thés collection, from a simple metal canister costing a few euros to a beautifully crafted piece in cherry bark. Then you simply need to fill your canisters in-store with the help of our experts. You can also experience the pleasure of smelling the loose-leaf teas in our giant canisters. Each one contains several kilos of leaves – you will be transported by their aromas!

•

SPECIAL CONTAINERS FOR EXCEPTIONAL TEAS Palais des Thés loves to showcase beautiful objects, and offers a collection of fine washi canisters designed to store rare and limited-edition teas. Washi means “Japanese paper”. It has been crafted in Japan using traditional methods since the seventh century. It is made from long paper mulberry fibres, which make it lightweight, supple and strong. In 2014, this traditional artisanal craft was recognised as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO. With their airtight double lid, the Grand Cru washi canisters are ideal for storing the finest teas. Their decorative motif is inspired by kintsugi (roughly translated as “joining with gold”). This traditional Japanese technique consists of repairing broken pottery with gold lacquer, and is often taken to symbolise resilience and the acceptance of imperfection. canister 100g → Ref. V2030B – €14 canister 150g → Ref. V2030C − €17

PL ANET TE A

The carbon footprint of a cuppa

-30

age er

3 .3

5.6 Fertilisers and mechanical harvest Moyenne

₂

-30 m es de

0 3/ Transport et commerce

Emballage du thé (transport jusqu’au grossiste) Emballage (vendeur final)

.3 The tea plant is gr a shrub with a a m s of lifespan of 50 to 80 years. Throughout its life it stores carbon in its roots, branches and leaves. Because only a few leaves are harvested regularly from each shoot, and because this harvesting does not destroy the plant, it acts as a carbon sink, like all other trees. Its carbon footprint is therefore negative. In terms of a single cup, this represents roughly 30g of carbon captured.

gr As with all crops, a m s of the use of fertilisers 1.4 generates greenhouse Organic gas emissions, which vary methods according to the farming and manual methods (organic or chemical harvest Harvesting is Le fertilisers). théier another source of emissions. Whether the tea is picked by hand or by machine has a major bearing on the carbon emissions generated during this first stage in the supply chain. 2/ Manufacture

g ra

Harvesting

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Growing 1/ Culture et récolte

Overall, tea is economical in terms of carbon emissions. In fact, it is the least carbon-emitting beverage, averaging 19 grams of CO2 per cup. This is how that footprint is broken down, from plantation to cup, to help you understand what differences you can make as a tea drinker.

a m s of

Processing During this stage, it is the method used to dry the leaves 2.1 that12.2 4/ Préparation has the greatest potential carbon impact. Drying the leaves in the sun or using machines powered by renewables such as wind naturally has less of an impact on global warming. If wood is used as a fuel, the carbon footprint is neutralised: burning wood releases CO2, but storing logs, replanting trees and returning the ashes to the soil captures CO2.

142

g ra

-30 m es de

PL ANET TE A

2/ Manufacture

₂

CO 2

m es de

age er

2,3 0,3

Emballage du thé (transport jusqu’au grossiste) Preparation 31 Emballage (vendeur final) f

₂

g ra

31 m es de

The carbon footprint of loose-leaf tea is ten times smaller than for tea bags.

15 Tap water and gas stove

9,6 Moyenne

Landfill ₂

g ra

₂ ₂

₂

CO ₂

Moyenne

m es de

Bilan carbone (info transversale) du champ au magasin de détail

142 Mineral water and electric kettle

-8.3 19 142

In most countries, burying waste in the m ground m e s dise still the most common method gr a m s of of disposal. Discarding tea, and most of all, its packaging, if it has any, produces greenhouse gases (carbon and methane). Moyenne Bilan carbone (info transversale) CO

-8.3 19 142

₂

g ra

m es de

Source: “Tea’s Carbon Footprint: Saint or Sinner?”, September 2009, research by Nigel Melican from the tea Moyenne consultancy Teacraft.

6,5

g ra

6,5

du champ au magasin de détail

9,6 Moyenne

₂

9.6

2,3 0,3

₂

age er

142

g ra

5/ Enfouissement

m es de

The 15 overall142 carbon footprint of a cup of tea

g ra

ams o The choice of water, the way it is heated and everything else related to tea preparation makes this stage the most intensive in terms of carbon emissions. 5/ Enfouissement 12.2 2.1 4/ Préparation On average, this part alone represents more than e n y n o e M two-thirds of the emissions from your cup of tea. By only heating the amount of water you need, you can significantly reduce your impact.

0,8 Moyenne

₂

m es de

₂

g ra

a m s of

12.2

g ra

0,8

3.4

2.1

Transporting tea by boat obviously has lower carbon emissions than transporting it by plane, which is two or three times worse in terms of emissions. Tea chests and other packaging represent an additional source of CO2.

Moyenne

age er

₂

4/ Préparation

3/ Transport et commerce

3,3

m es de

g ra

-8.3 19 142

-30 Moyenne

Emballage du thé (transport jusqu’au grossiste)en Moy ne Emballage (vendeur final)

3,3 Transport and sale

12.2

300

* Data taken from Edini.fr (with only the necessary quantity of water).

2/ Manufacture

Moyenne

2.1

250

g ra

(transport jusqu’au grossiste) ur final)

m es de

m m A product, or activity’s carbon footprint is aemeasure of the impact m es de m ingredient d e satmosphere. m e s d egreenhouse gas emissions into m of its lifecycle on the It is stated in terms of carbon equivalent. In a carbon footprint measurement, it is useful to compare the harmful effect of each greenhouse gas.

age er

m es de

a m s of

-30

Transport et 200 commerceMoyenne

₂

Le théier

g ra

-30

3/ Moyenne 150

g ra

-30

100

Moyenne

25 centilitres pour 25 centilitres

m e s d e grams of CO2 per grammes de CO2

5.6

1.4

g ra

1.4

5.6

₂

Comparative carbon impact of the main beverages

1/ Culture et récolte

Moyenne

m es de

CULTURE THÉ These women picking leaves in the tops of wild tea trees are from the Dao community in Vietnam.

CULTURE THÉ

Secrets of the tea plant The cultivation of tea, a native plant of South-East Asia that originated in the region around the borders between Laos, China and Myanmar, only truly began in the fourth century when tea was domesticated by the Chinese and the first plantations were established in Sichuan.

CULTURE THÉ

GROWING TE A

he tea plant (Camellia sinensis, Thea sinensis or Chinese camellia) is an evergreen shrub in the Theaceae family. It is a cousin of our garden camellia and has three main varieties: sinensis from China, with a small, olive-green leaf; assamica from Assam, with large, pale, fleshy shoots; and the rarer variety discovered in Cambodia, cambodiensis, which is not cultivated. Through spontaneous hybridisation or human intervention, the three varieties of Camellia sinensis have created many hybrids. Today, there are more than 500 different types of tea plant that originally came from these three varieties. Each one has its own characteristics. Varieties, cultivars and terroirs Like the different varieties of cultivated grape vines, some tea varieties are better adapted to the production of green tea, while others are more suited to black tea, etc. These varieties are the result of selection, hybridisation (a cross between two species or genera) or spontaneous mutation in the plant kingdom. But, unlike the wine industry, where experiments on variety acclimatisation have been performed outside their place of origin, leading to relative globalisation, tea cultivars often remain within their specific region. This regionalisation is first and foremost due to the lack of communication between the different tea regions of the world. The lack of curiosity, even disinterest, among planters in what is going on elsewhere does not encourage acclimatisation experiments, and you have very little chance of seeing the same cultivar on the slopes of Darjeeling and on the island of Taiwan. However, some pioneers, particularly in Nepal and certain African countries, are successfully introducing Chinese or Japanese cultivars into their plantations. The other point of comparison between the tea plant and the grapevine is their great capacity to adapt to very different soils and geographical conditions. It is legitimate to question the influence that terroir has on the organoleptic qualities of a tea, and therefore on the extent to which teas reflect their terroir. By terroir, we mean an area of land with uniform physical attributes, whether these are the original conditions or created by farming methods, used to grow agricultural products.

Yabukita is the most common variety in Japan, and is recognised by its long, narrow leaf that points towards the sun.

A LITTLE HISTORY The tea plant is said to have been discovered by the Chinese in around 2700 BC. According to legend, Shen Nong, a hero in Chinese mythology, asked his subjects to only drink boiled water, in order to protect their health. When a few tea leaves fell into his boiling water, Shen Nong was captivated by the qualities of the fragrant beverage. However it came into being, tea consumption has been recorded in China since the seventh century BC. The very first people from the West to discover tea were missionaries and travellers during the 16th century, but it was not until the early 17th century that tea was introduced into Europe by the Dutch.

GROWING TE A

While there is no doubt of the influence of the physical and chemical composition of soil on tea, it is, however, difficult to identify exactly what specific character it brings. Because of the extreme regional separation in the world of tea and the localised nature of cultivars, it is difficult to compare how one cultivar might behave when grown using exactly the same methods, but on different soils. Also, unlike wine, for which terroir is considered a gauge of quality, most tea produced around the world has not yet been affected by this approach, and the influence of terroir on a particular tea is not currently a problem.

What the tea plant needs to be happy Tea grows in regions with warm, humid climates and regular rainfall, preferably distributed throughout the year. It grows between 42 degrees latitude north and 31 degrees south. The optimal temperature is between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius, but it can vary significantly, particularly at night. The influence of climate is seen on both the volume and quality of the harvest, which is often lower if the environment is too humid. Altitude favours the quality of the tea while lowering yield. In tropical regions, tea can be grown from sea level up to 2,500 metres. Light is also an important factor: it is required for the formation of the essential oils that give tea its aromas. The light should preferably be diffuse. This is why you nearly always find large trees planted at regular intervals on plantations. They help balance the soil ecology and also filter the sun’s rays. Tea plants do not like strong wind, and grow better in a still, pure atmosphere.

•

A few of the best varieties YA B U K I TA

AV 2

This is the cultivar favoured by Japanese planters for its hardiness at low temperatures and its vegetal, iodine aromas. It represents around 85% of the country’s tea plants. Today, other cultivars are also grown in Japan (Sae-Midori, Oku-Hikari, Asatsuyu, etc.), which has led to a wider range of flavours and aromas.

Grown in the various tea-producing regions of India over the past two decades, despite its slightly reedy appearance, it produces spectacular results in terms of its organoleptic qualities, particularly in Darjeeling. It gives the tea an incomparable zesty, floral bouquet.

DA Y E

TTES12 “Large leaves”

This is used in China to make Pu Er. It is one of the most aromatic cultivars. The fresh-smelling leaves evoke the scent of freesia. As it dries, it develops a pronounced animal aroma with notes of leather and stables.

Ambari vegetative 2

Taiwanese Tea Experiment Station #12 or Jin Xuan

Used to make some Dong Ding teas in Taiwan. Thanks to its intense notes of butter and sweet spices, sometimes with pronounced floral aromas of ylang ylang, it produces some incredible teas that smell like vanilla-flavoured milk.

CULTURE THÉ

When the temperature rises, tea plants like to be in the shade. So farmers plant trees, like these palms, between the tea plants in regions with very hot weather.

ONE TE A , ONE TE A SOMMELIER

Tasting session: Qingjing Oolong “Emerald heart” is the evocative translation of Qing Xin, the name of the tea plant used to make the premium tea I’m about to taste. This Qingjing Oolong, a superb medium-oxidised tea, comes from Yunnan. It is inspired by the Taiwanese Gao Shan Chas, the famous “high mountain teas”. To get the most from its rich aromas and flavours, it is prepared in a porcelain gaiwan using the Gong Fu Cha method. By Manuela Leriche

1. Wet the pearls A Tea sommelier at Palais des Thés since 2016, Manuela Leriche spent several years advising customers in our Paris stores before turning her attention to promoting our singleorigin teas, particularly the premium teas, which she helps choose and market.

2. Pour the water into the gaiwan

When taken from the canister, the green pearls [1] reveal notes that hint at the wonderfully complex aromas to come. On contact with the boiling hot porcelain they release a flurry of floral, buttery notes. To “wa ke up” Oolongs shaped into pearls, I always rinse the leaves, which helps the shoots to unfurl without affecting the most delicate notes. The rinse should be extremely brief and the water should be emptied immediately. The infusions that follow should also only last a few seconds, the time it takes to take a breath. Once the preparation is finished, I pour boiling water into the gaiwan (“bowl with lid”) with a vigorous circular motion [2] and the leaves swirl and dance around. Instantly, the water takes on a subtle hue and the tea is ready to be poured into the cup and tasted [3]. The Gong Fu Cha method can be understood to symbolise the different stages of life. The first infusion is youthful:

ONE TE A , ONE TE A SOMMELIER

the floral, impetuous, sparkling aromas leap out almost impulsively. The liquor is a diaphanous yellow, the texture smooth and light as silk, and yet the notes are intense. For the second infusion, the water is only a little more coloured but the flavour sensations have already developed. The texture is denser and some buttery notes have emerged. I particularly like the third infusion, during which the tea matures [4]. It is at its aromatic best. The scents are powerful – floral notes, almond, butter, vanilla.

4. Taste the liquor

3. Pour the tea into the cup

The texture has filled out to become extremely smooth. The tea is complex and perfectly balanced. The fourth infusion is dense and expressive. It releases harmonious fragrances – white flowers that mingle with notes of fruit and sweet pastries. The delicate velvety tannins prolong the flavour. I continue until the seventh infusion. The liquor is now golden and darker, but still gleaming. The texture is more powdery. The floral, spicy aromas

are shrouded in mystery. This premium tea has evolved with the measure and elegance only attained by the very best. The infusions continue. With each one, the Gong Fu Cha showcases the fleeting and perfect brilliance of every facet of this tea, which offers endless pleasures. I conclude the tasting with music: Schubert’s Hungarian Melody for Piano in B minor, D.817. Its cyclical progression resonates with the furtive, repetitive notes of the Qingjing Oolong. Then the tea slowly dies, after one last swan song of lily and peony scents. Soon the aromas fade, leaving only the precious memory.

•

Qingjing Oolong Premium tea Cultivar Qing Xin Producer Mr Yang Origin Gaoligong Shan

(Yunnan, China)

Altitude 2,300 mètres Harvested september 2020 Preparation advice → Teapot

90°C/195°F 5 minutes

→ Gong Fu Cha

95°C/200°F 5 infusions of a few seconds SWEET PAIRINGS creme caramel, financiers or white chocolate → Ref. 2775 – €35 per 100g

TE A IN THE KITCHEN

Carrots and hazelnut crumble with Thé des Lords The sweet flavour of the carrots and the crunchy hazelnuts go perfectly with Thé des Lords, a delicious Earl Grey with a pronounced bergamot note.

Serves 4 8 carrots with their tops 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp Thé des Lords For the crumble 30g unsalted butter, chilled 30g grated parmesan

Peel the carrots (set aside two washed tops if desired) and cook in a large saucepan of salted boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain, then cut in half lengthwise. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Add the carrots and tea. Cook on a medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the chopped carrot tops and continue to cook for 2-3 minutes.

30g ground hazelnuts

Prepare the crumble

30g buckwheat flour

Place all the ingredients in a large bowl and combine until the mixture resembles a light breadcrumb texture. Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4). Spread the crumble mixture on a baking tray. Cook for 20 minutes until golden.

1 tsp Thé des Lords Pinch of salt For the vinaigrette 1 tbsp olive oil

Prepare the vinaigrette

1 tsp wine vinegar

Blend all the ingredients.

1 tbsp orange juice 1 tbsp maple syrup

Arrange the carrots on a plate, sprinkle with the vinaigrette, then top with the crumble and carrot tops (the latter is optional).

Tip To save time, you can prepare and cook the crumble the day before, then reheat it on the day. The carrots can be replaced with parsnips, which will add a nutty flavour and a spicy note.

Thé des Lords → Ref. 802 − €8.70 per 100g

TELL ME MORE

The history of tea and cocoa So much has been written about tea and cocoa, their history and origins and the legends surrounding them, that they have become as much a part of our literary heritage as our gastronomical traditions! By Bénédicte Bortoli

Tea and cocoa have been consumed as beverages since the second millennium BC by the Chinese and Olmecs, respectively. They arrived in Europe, and in France, at the same time. We look back at 17 th- century France to see how they met with different receptions at the royal court. A French passion?

Louis Carmontelle (1717-1806). Mme la Marquise de Montesson, Mme la Marquise du Crest et Mme la Comtesse de Damas, 1773 [detail]

In the early 17th century, the first tea bricks, which were traded in Java in exchange for sage and borage from the Dutch, were imported into Europe. At the time, tea was seen as an essential medicinal beverage. Mazarin drank it to treat his gout, Louis XIV to ward off the vapours and dizziness, and Madame de Sévigné to cure “all her aches”. This is a far cry from the sophisticated image tea acquired later. Its use as a medicinal remedy was confined to the royal court. Elsewhere, tea did not

TELL ME MORE

immediately gain widespread popularity as it did in Britain and the Netherlands. “Tea was an oddness for the old-school French,” wrote Brillat-Savarin in his “Physiology of Taste” (1825). “Yet it was accepted. I made it in their presence, and they drank a few cups with great pleasure, particularly as they had previously viewed it only as a remedy.” Initially limited to aristocratic salons, from the second half of the 19th century it was adopted by some of the bourgeoisie with the opening of the first tea rooms. While in Britain, cocoa arrived at the same as tea from China and coffee from Yemen, in France the aristocracy became infatuated with chocolate, the fashionable new drink. Here, it was introduced to the royal court by Anne of Austria, the infanta of Spain (a country swept up by cocoa mania!) who married Louis XIII in 1615.

Then Maria Theresa of Spain, wife of Louis XIV, became so obsessed with it she made herself ill through excessive consumption. Cocoa went on to symbolise extreme refinement with a hint of licentiousness, because of the aphrodisiac properties associated with it. In the mid17th century, the first chocolate houses were opened in London by a Frenchman, initiating the spread of drinking chocolate, before the first eating chocolate was made, also in London, in 1674, followed by the manufacture of chocolate on a wider scale, which made it more accessible. Tea and cocoa, with more or less success on their arrival in France, were therefore enjoyed by a small circle of the privileged enthusiasts before growing in popularity and being used in cooking. Tea houses wanted to unite these two major ingredients in the spirit of Easter feasting.

* Black Tea Intense Cocoa → Ref. 7830 – €12 per 100 g

14/01/2020

PDT_PAQUES_1000x1500.indd

11:54

Chocolate in tea For 2021, Palais des Thés is celebrating this partnership with two new blends, one containing theine, the other without. What do they have in common? They both harness tea’s ability to capture aromas and cacao nibs’ capacity for infusion. With both teas, the challenge was to achieve a harmonious balance by combining two products with pronounced aromas. The first blend* is intensely cocoa-y: a black tea from the Dominican Republic combined with cacao nibs and enhanced with a touch of liquorice, with a powerful presence. In a different vein, the second blend** brings out the sweetness of rooibos which echoes the vanilla-y hints of Nigerian cocoa, matched by the warm notes of cinnamon. Two delicious ways to combine chocolate and tea in the same cup!

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** Chocolate and Speculoos Rooibos → Ref. 926 – €12 per 100 g

E XCEPTIONAL TE A

Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls), an ancient craft Jasmine tea is one of the oldest flavoured teas. Traditionally, it is made from green tea mixed with fresh jasmine flowers, but the name covers a variety of methods and above all, qualities. The most famous jasmine tea is known as Jasmine Pearls.

Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls) are traditionally made in the Fujian region of China, near the city of Fuding. Its original name is Mo Li Long Zhu. Mo Li means “jasmine flowers” and Long Zhu means “dragon pearls” in reference to the Chinese legend in which the mythical creature derives its powers from a magic pearl hidden in its claws. The traditional method has two stages: harvesting the green tea in the spring, and picking the jasmine flowers in summer.

selected in Fuding, is recognisable from its particularly large downy silver buds and its extraordinary fragrance, which goes perfectly with the jasmine flowers. Once the tea is harvested, the leaves are heated briefly at a high temperature to stop oxidation, then each “pearl” is rolled by hand. This venerable tradition requires a lot of experience and patience. The green tea pearls are then stored carefully until summer, protected from humidity, until the precious flowers are ready.

Imperial harvest

Uniting the flowers and tea

The green tea harvest takes place in April when the young spring shoots are at their best. The leaves are plucked in the mountains with the greatest care: to make Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls), only shoots with one bud and one leaf are chosen. This is known as the “imperial grade”. The tea variety generally used to make it is Fuding Da Bai. This cultivar,

Jasmine blossoms in the summer. Starting in August, the flowers are transported to where the tea is stored, in order to combine their fragrances. The flowers only release their scent at dusk, so they are mixed with the leaves at the end of the afternoon and left in contact with the tea overnight. This delicate operation involves creating a bed of tea pearls and covering it with

Picking the jasmine flowers by hand, protected from the sun.

flowers. To prevent the aromas being affected by excessive heat or humidity, the jasmine and the tea are constantly mixed together to lower the temperature. In the early morning, the flowers are carefully removed using a sieving system, as the jasmine would turn bitter if it were left to wither. So, contrary to expectations, a quality jasmine tea does not actually contain flowers.

UN THÉ DÉCRYPTÉ

For Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls), the process is repeated seven times, each time with freshly picked flowers. This incredible premium tea uses more than 250 kg of jasmine flowers to make 100 kg of tea!

Pearls in the mouth Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls) are known for their

wonderfully round texture, just like the beaded shape of the leaves. The fragrance of the flowers develops with intensity and precision before it mingles with subtle fruit notes, giving a sweet impression. Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls) are full in the mouth from start to finish, offering a refined tasting experience.

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Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls) → Ref. 2060 − €34 per 100 g

TE A TALK

François-Xavier Delmas and Sidonie Bonnec record an episode of “Un thé, un voyage” with François Touchard, the producer.

“Un thé, un voyage” – the first podcast about tea In each episode, François-Xavier Delmas and Sidonie Bonnec taste the finest teas and travel the world in search of the stories behind them. They take you to China to try Jasmine Pearls, India to sip Darjeeling, and through the streets of Kolkata to discover chai. You’ll even drink tea with cheese!

Perles de Jasmin (Jasmine Pearls) Episode 1 16.11.2020 Other episodes are available at www.palaisdesthes.com/ fr/podcast or from your usual platforms. A Univers K production.

A delicate spring green tea combines perfectly with the subtle bouquet of jasmine to make a truly exceptional tea: Jasmine Pearls. François-Xavier talks about this premium tea, from harvesting to processing. We find out why the tea must be separated from the flowers to acquire their best fragrance. A sensual, delicious journey! Duration ► 20:23

TE A TALK

Darjeeling Episode 2

Palais news

30.11.2020 François-Xavier takes Sidonie to a legendary region at the foot of the Himalayas. Located at the cultural crossroads between India, Britain, Tibet and Nepal, Darjeeling is also a unique place in the world of tea, celebrated for the mastery of its expertise. Set off through the mountains of Darjeeling to taste some of the finest teas in the world.

SERVICE

Choose click & collect – it’s fast and free!

Duration ► 17:28

Chai Episode 3 14.12.2020 Chai, or masala chai, to give it its full name, is an essential ritual on the streets of India. From schoolchildren to businessmen, from Kolkata to Mumbai via Fort Cochin, everyone drinks chai. There are hundreds of recipes for this delicious drink that blends tea, spices, sugar and milk. In this episode, FrançoisXavier makes his own version for Sidonie, bringing back many sweet memories. Drinking chai is a chance to pause all activity and simply enjoy the moment.

No need to wait at home for a delivery, and you will save time in store. 1. Place your order for teas and eligible accessories using the online click & collect service. 2. Choose the store you’d like to collect from. 3. You will receive an order confirmation and your items will be ready for collection from the store.

Duration ► 23:39 STORES

Four tea and cheese pairings Episode 4 28.12.2020 Tea is increasingly being explored outside the confines of the teapot, which has led to some surprising encounters. François-Xavier reveals a love story – incongruous but sincere – between tea and cheese. As they taste different pairings, Sidonie can appreciate for herself the delicious combination of a goat’s cheese and a Chinese green tea, a fourme d’Ambert and a Nepalese white tea, and other flavoursome duos! Duration ► 18:00

Two new stores where we can share our passion for tea with you We are delighted to announce the opening of two new Palais des Thés stores. All our staff are looking forward to welcoming you and helping you choose from our selection of more than 250 teas. Lyon Centre Commercial de La Part-Dieu 17, rue du Docteur-Bouchut 69003 Lyon Tél. : 04 28 00 18 02

Bordeaux Bègles, Centre Commercial Rives d’Arcins Rue des Frères-Lumière 33130 Bègles Tél. : 05 64 10 09 62

NEW PRODUCTS

Spring colour!

→ Ref. V2034B → Ref. DVT309

ORGANIC GENMAICHA MIDORI → Ref. 3050 – €13 per 100g

→ Ref. DVT494

→ Ref. N360

→ Ref. V2037C

CAST IRON TEAPOT Imperial Red

→ Ref. V2033C

→ Ref. N359

→ 0.6 l – €80 → Ref. M121B

→ Ref. DVT773 → Ref. DVT802

COLOURS OF TEA

→ Ref. DVT861

→ Ref. V2036B

→ 100g canister – €16

→ Ref. DVT862

→ Ref. V2033B

YAMA CUP → 9 cl – €12 → Ref. N163

YAMA TEAPOT → 43 cl – €50 → Ref. M247

OSMANTHUS D’OR → Ref. 317 – €16 per 100g

→ Ref. V2034C

→ Ref. V2036C

→ Ref. V2035C

WATERCOLOUR WASHI CANISTERS

→ Ref. DVT771

→ 100g canister – €13 → 150g canister – €16

CAST IRON TEAPOT Xian Grey → 0.6 l – €80 → Ref. M121A

→ Ref. V2035B → Ref. DVT898

→ Ref. V2037B

→ Ref. N361

WATERCOLOUR MUGS → 44 cl – €16

→ Ref. N362

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palaisdesthes

Bruits de Palais is published by Palais des Thés Contributors to this issue

Nathaly Nicolas (carbon footprint), Julie Schwob (recipe styling), Anne Desplancke (recipe) Editorial team

Bénédicte Bortoli, Chloé Douzal, Mathias Minet Art directors and layout

Laurent Pinon and Aurore Jannin at Prototype Illustrations

Stéphane Humbert-Basset English translation

Marta Scott Proofreading

Nicole Foster Printing

Printed in February 2021 by Graphius (Belgium) Imaging & retouching services

Key Graphic

Palais des Thés

All translation, adaptation and reproduction rights in any form are reserved for all countries. Photos

François-Xavier Delmas: cover, p. 2, 4, 20-21, 22, 25, 33, 39 • Léo Perrin: p. 6, 10-11, 12, 13 • Guillaume Czerw: 15, 26-27, 29, 36-37; Frédéric Lucano: p. 16, 35; Kenyon Manchego: p. 17, 27, 31, 32, 38; Paris Musées/ Musée Carnavalet: p. 30; Chloé Douzal: p. 34 Research sources on page 14

* Study by Friends of the Earth Europe and Zero Waste Europe, 2017; ** Zero Waste Europe and Eunomia Consultancy, 2020; *** Nielsen, 2020. Customer service

+33 (0)1 43 56 90 90 Cost of a local call (in France) Monday to Saturday 9am-6pm

Corporate gifts

+33 (0)1 73 72 51 47 Cost of a local call (in France) Monday to Friday 9am-6pm

Mrs Ming, one of the few women in charge of a tea plantation, in Mae Salong, northern Thailand.

“We deny ourselves every luxury except the most precious one, that of being slow.”

€4.90

Nicolas Bou vier

palaisdesthes.com