bruits de palais “Keep a clear head: be present.” Georges Braque
65
September 2014 | n°
The tea route Gardens, herbal infusions perfected Yuzu, a very special Pure Indulgence
Contents
3 •
Editorial
4 •
Gardens, herbal infusions perfected
8 •
The tea route
12 •
Yuzu, a very special Pure Indulgence
14 •
Grands Crus Selection
16 •
18 •
Tea in my kitchen
Shopping & New items
19
• Théophile
benefits
We chase after it all year long, and when we stop our frenzied pace, it is there, suspended, or so it seems: time. For each one of us, the holidays allow us to rediscover a slower pace, or at least a more harmonious sense of time, letting us live in the present and appreciate special moments. Before diving headlong back into the rush this autumn, let’s remember we have an ally each time we want to slow down and rediscover the quality of being in the present. This ally is tea. When we prepare and drink tea, with others or alone, we take time out of our daily lives that are often dominated by the need to be efficient and available at every instant. Isn’t that a good thing? Tea has always needed time; perhaps now, it’s our time that needs tea!
The team at Palais des Thés welcomes you back after the summer holidays.
3 •
François-Xavier Delmas, founder of Palais des Thés
Gardens, herbal infusions perfected Inspired by gardens “We all have personal memories of a particular garden and the feelings it evokes. On my travels, I have been moved by the magnificent and extraordinary diversity of each garden, like a unique story of nature and the people that have shaped it. These evocations and memories have inspired our work creating infusions.
First we look for the dominant notes, then we introduce the ingredients that will give the infusion its unique personality. Like a garden where we marvel at the profusion of plants, flowers and trees, we compose our Gardens infusions up to 15 different ingredients in some recipes, to capture the place and season we want to evoke.
When walking through a garden, you are totally immersed in it. You stroll aimlessly, your thoughts wander and your senses become immersed in everything the garden has to offer: shapes, colours, fragrances and sounds.
With Gardens by Palais des Thés, you can recreate the experience of a walk through a beautiful garden. It is a more personal experience than drinking a tea. Caffeine free, Gardens by Palais des Thés can be enjoyed at any time of day – or night.
It is a constantly changing world: a new bud opens, a rose fades. A garden evolves over time, with the seasons and the weather. In a garden, we must accept what nature offers us in the present moment. So every walk brings us something new.
We would be delighted to guide you on some delightful walks for the taste buds with our Gardens infusions, for summer and winter.” François-Xavier Delmas
It is this incredible diversity that inspired us to create Gardens. We wanted to transcribe the unique emotions evoked in each garden by creating a new range of infusions, each one resembling an imaginary garden. We worked as a gardener would, grouping plants, trying out different combinations to achieve the memory and personality of places that have touched us, and the impression of their fragrances that has remained with us.
5 •
Discovering Gardens Changing to reflect the seasons, our collection is composed of seven delicious and fragrant Gardens herbal infusions. Some specifically evoke the summer season with its naturally sweet, delicately acidic and juicy fruits. Other creations will warm up an autumn or winter evening, with their selection of spices and aromatic plants rich in soothing, sustaining qualities. Like herbalist’s recipes, these Gardens comfort and relax us. Gardens are delicious drinks composed only of plants, flowers and fruits. They are caffeine-free and contain no artificial flavorings. The infusions can be consumed by all the family, including children. These infusions reveal their many aromas and flavors when prepared in the traditional way with hot water, but can also be savoured as a delicious cold or iced drink. Find all of Gardens collection on the website at www.palaisdesthes.com
Tropical garden Mango, pineapple, papaya and peach… Ref.DV962X. 5 oz Metal Canister Ref.962. 3.5 oz Pouch Hanging garden Apple, hibiscus blossoms, bergamot, mango and flowers… Ref.DV961X. 4 oz Metal Canister Ref.961. 3.5 oz Pouch Secret garden Crisped mint, lemongrass and yellow fruits... Ref.DV963X. 3.5 oz Metal Canister Ref.963. 3.5 oz Pouch Fruit garden Goji berries, red fruits, date and kiwi… Ref.DV964X. 5.5 oz Metal Canister Ref.964. 3.5 oz Pouch
6 •
Garden of dreams Citrus peel, lemon balm, chamomile and verbena… Ref.DV967X. 1.7 oz Metal Canister Ref.967. 3.5 oz Pouch Spice garden Spices, dates and coconut... Ref.DV966X. 5.5 oz Metal Canister Ref.966. 3.5 oz Pouch Country garden Fennel seeds, peppermint and aromatic herbs... Ref.DV965X. 2.8 oz Metal Canister Ref.965. 3.5 oz Pouch
C h in a Tibet
N ep al In di a
Sichuan
Lhassa
B ut h an B an g la de sh
Yunnan Pu’er
Bu rm a
Viet La os
The tea route In existence for 2,000 years, linking the provinces of Yunnan and Sichuan in China with the highest plateaus of Tibet, the legendary tea route is both beautiful and perilous. This route, steeped in history and bearing the scars of economic and social upheavals, takes us to the very origins of tea.
The creation of the tea route
Tea becomes a currency
Tea became popular in China in the seventh century, under the Tang dynasty. Its consumption rapidly extended westwards to Tibet, then Mongolia, where the caravan trade, which lay at the origins of the tea route, was a strong influence on its spread. Tea was introduced into Tibet in the year 641, when the Chinese princess Wen Cheng married Tibetan king Srong-Btsan Sgam-po. She brought with her tea from Sichuan, and introduced the Tibetan population to this drink. At the time, tea took the form of compressed, roasted bricks which were then crumbled into powder and stirred into boiling water. Some ingredients were added, such as salt or spices. Tibetans developed a taste for this beverage, which they mixed with yak’s butter to make a comforting drink with a strong, salty, slightly greasy flavor. Due to the climate of their country, which was not conducive to farming, their diet consisted almost entirely of meat. So tea was an excellent addition: it was not just a stimulant, but also helped them digest the meat. It was probably these benefits that made tea an essential drink for Tibetans.
The Chinese made the most of tea’s popularity in Tibet and then Mongolia and used this everyday drink for trading. Tea became a currency. To develop Chinese military power, Yunnan and Sichuan tea was exchanged for Tibetan and Mongolian horses, reputed to be the best. One horse was worth around 60kg of tea. This marked the start of the Cha Ma Gu Dao (literally, the “tea-horse caravan route” in Mandarin), which was travelled for more than 15 centuries. As well as its influence on the development of China through the ages, this route also led to the spread of trade between the empire and neighbouring countries. In the 11th century, tea “cakes” became the main product traded between China and Tibet, and the route was the primary artery for trade in South-East Asia. For reasons of practicality and transport, green tea was compacted into cake form, each weighing between 500 g and 3 kg. These were sewn into bags made of animal skin, and transported in caravans by mules and yaks to the capital of Tibet on a long journey of six months. During this time, the tea cakes were in contact with the animals, as well as the heat and humidity, and they fermented slightly and acquired their unique aroma. Today, we call this type of tea raw Pu Erh, which takes its name from the eponymous town situated on the plains of Yunnan.
Chengdu
tnam
Routes used to transport tea from Yunnan and Sichuan to Tibet.
9 •
A seller of fresh leaves that will be used to make Pu Erh.
The tea route: a cultural melting pot Thousands of caravans followed this 2,250 km route linking the town of Pu Erh with Lhassa in the high Tibetan plateaus. The Cha Ma Gu Dao was also an opportunity for people from different ethnic groups and cultures to meet and mingle. Even today, over 60 different peoples use this route, which has been one of the richest sources of cultural diversity in China. It was in regular use up until the 1950s and has been preserved today. Tea remains very popular in Tibet where it is still consumed in the traditional way, blended with yak’s butter. This is a high-consumption beverage: Tibetans each drink between 30 and 50 cups a day! Until a few years ago, Pu Erh was mainly consumed among the Chinese diaspora. Since then it has become incredibly popular in continental China, due to its ancient history and its beneficial qualities recognised by Chinese medicine.
Bamboo Tea Knife Ref.W742. Galet of black Pu Erh Meng Hai Shu Cha Ref.284.
The galet of Pu Erh is broken using a bamboo knife.
10 •
Two types of Pu Erh: compressed, above, and loose, opposite.
Raw and cooked Pu Erh There are two types of Pu Erh. Raw Pu Erh is a compressed green tea that ferments over time due to the natural presence of micro-organisms. Cooked Pu Erh, also known as black, is more recent: in 1973, the Kumming factory tried to reproduce the natural process of ageing and fermentation in raw Pu Erh, and developed an accelerated fermentation method that it applied to green tea. This process results in teas that are quite different to raw Pu Erh: the humid aromas of undergrowth and cellar are more present, and the animal notes are more pronounced.
Yuzu,
a very special Pure Indulgence The latest addition to the Pure Indulgence collection of quality teas combined with unique natural aromas, Yuzu is an exceptional, fine, delicate composition celebrating two of the most precious flavors in Japan: Shincha tea and yuzu.
To create this flavored “grand cru”, we have selected an excellent Shincha tea. Shincha, which means “new tea”, is a green tea from the first and best harvest of the year, which takes place in April. With its exceptional vegetal freshness, it is considered one of the finest, most delicate green teas in the world. We have chosen to combine this tea with yuzu, a citrus fruit similar to lemon and mandarin that is highly prized in Japanese cuisine. Its rich flavors and powerful zesty notes have made its reputation around the world. In recent years it has been used as an ingredient by some of the leading chefs in the West. To create our Yuzu tea, we wanted to use the fruit in its natural state. So, to flavor our Shincha, we took only the zest, which we added to the tea in two different forms: in tiny pieces of peel, and in a very fine powder, obtained with mills that are normally used to produce Matcha, Japan’s ceremonial tea. In just the right proportions, the tea and zest blend to create the perfect balance. To appreciate the rich and delicate qualities of Yuzu, the tea should be prepared with particular care. We recommend three methods:
Western steeping in a teapot • Prepare your tea in a 10-ounce teapot. • Add 6 g (0.2 oz.) of tea to a filter large enough to allow the tea leaves to fully expand and release their flavor. • Fill the teapot with pure water heated to 70°C (160°F). • Steep for 2 to 3 minutes. Steeped for 2 minutes, Yuzu is expansive, refreshing, and mellow. Its slight astringency enhances the zesty flavors of the citrus, making a perfect foil to the floral and plant notes of the Shincha. Steeped for 3 minutes, Yuzu reveals a stronger personality, intense and aromatic with a more pronounced presence in the mouth.
Japanese preparation in a Kyusu The Kyusu is a Japanese teapot traditionally used to prepare green tea. This method produces a series of 3 different infusions, each of which reveals a different facet of the tea’s flavor profile. • Add 10 g (0.35 oz.) of tea to the Kyusu. • Pour 7 ounces of pure water heated to 70°C (160°F) over the leaves. • Cover the teapot with the lid and steep for approximately 1 minute to produce the first infusion. • When the time is up, pour the brew into cups, taking care to distribute it evenly—the final drops are the most concentrated. • Steep the second infusion for 45 seconds and the third for 30 seconds.
Frozen preparation Simply infuse 0.2 oz. of tea in half a litre of water at room temperature during 40 minutes, then place in the fridge to chill.
12 •
Yuzu Ref.726. 3.5 oz Pouch
Yuzu Limited edition Ref.DV726X. 6 oz Metal Canister presented in a case
To celebrate this tea, we have created a limited edition in a precious packaging.
Grands Crus Extract of our selection TAIWAN SHAN LIN XI GAO SHAN CHA Ref.2665A14.
DARJEELING MARGARET’S HOPE DJ 219 PURE AV2 S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 Ref.0186A14.
CHINE HUO SHAN HUANG YA Ref.209A14.
JAPON TAMARYOKUCHA PREMIUM ICHIBANCHA 2014 Ref.3068A14.
14 •
DARJEELING ROHINI DJ 45 Ref.0185A14.
Warning! All the teas presented in these pages are rare and ephemeral teas, harvested in very small quantities and available at a given moment without the guarantees of a sustained supply. Available until the batch have gone, these teas may therefore go out of stock very quickly.
Find the rest of our selection in store and at www.palaisdesthes.com
TAIWAN SHAN LIN XI GAO SHAN CHA This tea, grown in the Shan Lin Xi mountain range in Taiwan, is plucked and processed entirely by hand, and is wonderfully well balanced and smooth. We love its powerful, richly aromatic notes and creamy texture in the mouth. Its sweet, delicious scents of butter and vanilla, then flowers and fruit, are maintained by a round, opulent sensation. This is a fantastic oolong that fulfils all its potential, and is best prepared using the Gong Fu Cha. Ref.2665A14.
DARJEELING MARGARET’S HOPE DJ 219 PURE AV2 S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 Once again this year, the Margaret’s Hope garden has delivered a second flush that lives up to its reputation. This unusual Darjeeling, composed only of AV2 leaves, has the typical characteristics of this excellent cultivar in terms of its very creamy texture and the rose, brioche notes. Enjoy this subtle tea now, with its bouquet of flowers, yellow fruits and wax notes that succeed one another harmoniously. The tasting concludes in style with a delicious finish in the mouth. A must for summer 2014. Ref.0186A14.
CHINE HUO SHAN HUANG YA
JAPON TAMARYOKUCHA PREMIUM ICHIBANCHA 2014
This new-season China green tea comes from the yellow mountains of Anhui. Historically, it has been one of the rarest teas from the region, and was traditionally bought as an offering for Chinese dignitaries, as a sign of respect. In recent years it has been possible to source small quantities of this prestigious tea, and we are delighted to be able to introduce it to you.
This Tamaryokucha plucking, of a remarkably high quality, presents all the characteristics of this tea type: well balanced marine and vegetal notes, reinforced here by the powerful quality of new-season teas. This plucking is wonderfully rich and complex and has the typical freshness of ichibancha teas. The smooth, sweet start makes way for livelier, much more powerful aromas that develop very harmoniously. This vegetal, fruity new-season Japanese tea should be tasted without delay.
Very elegant, it has lovely vegetal, mineral and marine notes that are perfectly balanced with the smooth, delicate texture. Ref.209A14.
Ref.3068A14.
DARJEELING ROHINI DJ 45 We love this 45th batch from the Rohini garden in Darjeeling with its fruity bouquet and well balanced notes that form a perfect, unbroken succession. This “Grand Cru” has a lovely sweet quality with aromas of wood, honey and stewed fruit, with a touch of spice. Its delicate astringency creates a lovely lingering presence in the mouth. A very fine tea that will impress fans of second flush teas.
NEPAL ARYA TARA S.F.T.G.F.O.P.1 A second flush from Nepal with notes of wood, spices and fruit that linger with a delicious sweet flavor. This easy-drinking tea is a good introduction to teas with more burnt-type notes. Try it! Ref.0835A14.
Ref.0185A14.
Our selection of Grands Crus is renewed and extended in line with our travels and discoveries. In order to find out about our arrivals as soon as possible, we invite you to register for our newsletter on our website, www.palaisdesthes.com
15 •
Shopping & New items Hokusai Tea* Ref.DV853X. 3.5 oz Metal Tin
Homage to Hokusai Hokusai tea is an exclusive creation from Palais des Thés, conceived in partnership with the Réunion des Musées Nationaux to accompany the HOKUSAI exhibition that will take place at the Grand Palais in Paris from 1st of October 2014 to the 18th of January 2015. This flavored creation, inspired by the work of Hokusai, expresses both power and refinement through a combination of a fresh and delicate Sencha green tea with flowers, citrus and a hint of ginger.
*Available in participating stores only.
Hokusai
Japanese cast-iron teapot To prepare Hokusai tea in the best possible way, we recommend our Taira Nami cast iron teapot decorated with the iconic wave motif. • Created exclusively for Palais des Thés • Comes with a stainless steel filter • Enamel finish with the inside protected by a food-safe varnish. • Color: Aozumi • Capacity: 1,2 L
Ref.M216C.
16 •
Katsushika Hokusai - The 36 views of Mount Fuji: The Great Wave off Kanagawa Tenpō era, circa year 2 (circa 1831). Print, Oban, nishiki-e format. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (musée Guimet, Paris) / Harry Bréjat
Tea without the wait Discover a new way to make tea with this hot water dispenser: • Water heated to the required temperature in just 25 seconds. • Temperature adjustable from 60°C (140°F) to 100°C (210°F) to suit all types of teas and drinks. • Two adjustable volumes (100 ml and 200 ml) for dispensing just the right amount. Everyone can make their tea without waiting. Now it’s easy to enjoy different teas throughout the day! The adjustable temperature feature guarantees a reduction of up to 20% in energy consumption.
Hot Water Dispenser Discover it along with a selection of teas and objects perfect for the workplace:
Capacity: 1,7 L Power: 2200 W Weight: 2,1 Kg L 155 x H 265 x D 280 mm Ref.M189G.
My tea for the Brunch Ref.DMTP4.
My tea for the Office
Double Walled Glass Mug with Strainer
Ref.DBUR.
Capacity: 0,35 L
Shiraore Teapot Capacity: 0,35 L Stainless steel filter included
Ref.N301.
Ref.M017.
Kettle teapot With this new kettle teapot, your most precious tea will always be perfectly brewed! Choosing the ideal temperature for each type of tea: black tea, green tea, oolongs, white tea or infusion is simple, thanks to the five preset programmes. Highly adaptable, this kettle teapot also features a further four fully personalisable programmes, so you can prepare your favourite teas just the way you like them! The temperature varies between 50°C (120°F) and 100°C (210°F), to ensure you bring out the best flavors and aromas of your tea. Discover it along with:
Kettle teapot
Pu Erh Impérial
Sencha Ariake
Ref.M189F.
Ref.DV215X. 3.5 oz Metal Tin
Ref.DV302X. 3.5 oz Metal Tin
For more information, visit our stores and website at www.palaisdesthes.com
Darjeeling Margaret’s Hope Ref.DV018X. 3.5 oz Metal Tin
17 •
Tea in my kitchen A few tips to enhance your dishes with tea.
Flavor orange sauce with Earl Grey
Enhance vanilla ice cream with Matcha
Add an infusion of Earl Grey tea to orange sauce to accompany magret de canard – duck’s breast – and enrich the flavor of this delicate dish.
Sprinkled over vanilla ice cream, Matcha adds a delicate flavor and a touch of originality with its green colour.
Earl Grey Impérial Ref.D800AM. 3.5 oz pouch
Scent crème anglaise with delicate Fleur de Jasmin Infuse the jasmine tea in warm milk, then make your crème anglaise. Its sweet and delicate aroma is perfect for flavoring floating islands and light cakes.
Fleur de Jasmin Ref.D252AM. 3.5 oz pouch
Matcha for cooking Ref.C232. 1.7 oz pouch
Matcha salt makes a refined condiment for fish and white meat Matcha can be mixed with table salt to create a delicious condiment that complements fish, white meat or a salad of green vegetables.
Matcha for cooking Ref.C232. 1.7 oz pouch
Add interest to fish baked in foil The flavor of smoked tea goes very well with the iodine notes of fish and seafood. Add half a cup of Lapsang Souchong infusion to fish when baking in foil to bring out the smoky, woody flavors.
Grand Lapsang Souchong Ref.D240AM. 3.5 oz pouch
18 •
To find out more, discover the “Cooking with Tea” and “Lunch and Tea combinations” modules offered by Palais des Thés’ Tea School, at www.ecoleduthe.com.
The Théophile card The Théophile card gives you access to a number of benefits, available on our website, mail-order purchases and in Palais des Thés stores:
- enjoy a 10% discount on all purchases for one year (except books: maximum legal discount of 5% applies), - take advantage of preferential rates for a number of special offers and receive exclusive gifts, - receive our Bruits de Palais newsletter, giving you a sneak preview into new teas and keeping you up-to-date with the latest tea-related news… By spending €80 on loose tea in the year, you automatically renew the benefits of your card for the following year. Important: each time you visit the shop, remember to present your Théophile Card so that your purchases can be recorded. For your orders on the Internet, register your card in your customer account. For your orders by post, write your card number on your order form. The Théophile Card cannot be used in the United States.
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François-Xavier Delmas’ blog: www.discoveringtea.com
19 •
Palais des Thés has perfected the art of the herbal infusion with its collection Gardens Discover our blends inspired by beautiful gardens, composed of seasonal fruits, flowers and herbs. Caffeine-free, healthy, light and delicious, these seven herbal infusions can be consumed as often as you like. Tropical garden, Hanging garden, Secret garden, Fruit garden, Garden of dreams, Spice garden and Country garden. Discover the whole collection of Gardens on page 5 of this Bruit de Palais.
www.palaisdesthes.com
Photo credits: Palais des Thés photographic background: François-Xavier Delmas. Except : Arié Botbol p4 ; Adrien Raderscheidt p4 ; Charly Pouplin p12, p14 ; Kenyon Manchego p2, p6, p10, p13, p16, p17, p19 ; Marc Brunet p17 ; Frédéric Lucano p17, p20 ; Riviera & Bar p17 ; GettyImages p1, p7 — – Design and illustrations : A&M creative – Bruits de Palais is printed on paper from sustainably managed forests. It is certified as being whitened with chlorine-free bleach. 100% vegetal inks.
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