bruits de palais « Knouıing houı to be surprised at the right time is the mind’s first step to discovery. » February 2016 | n° Louis Pasteur
Spicy Passion Passionately spicy Discovering exceptional teas in Malawi Grands Crus Winter 2016
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Travel, inspiration, discovery Travelling is, first and foremost, about being open to new discoveries. It is also a great source of inspiration, allowing us to take in new cultures, landscapes, flavors and more. Tea takes us on a journey. Drinking tea plunges us into its distant origins, bringing a bit of somewhere else into the home. In this issue, we invite you on a voyage of discovery. We go to Malawi, where François-Xavier Delmas has discovered some incredible teas. You can also learn about the Indian and South African heritages that inspired Spicy Passion, an exciting, creative encounter. All the team at Palais des Thés wish you a wonderful year in 2016, full of discoveries! France 2, a French television channel, sent a team to accompany François-Xavier Delmas, the founder of Palais des Thés and an expert tea sommelier, on his quest to find the best teas in Sri Lanka. The report can be viewed on our Youtube channel.
Contents
PANTONE OR 10123 (PREMIUM METALLIC)
4 Spicy Passion Passionately spicy
12 Time to shop
6
Discovering exceptional teas in Malawi
14 For every dessert there is a tea to match
8 Grands Crus Winter 2016
SATEMWA PLANTATION IN THE SOUTH OF MALAWI
3 •
Spicy Passion Rooibos Chai
Spicy Passion
Spicy Passion Passionately spicy An incredible combination of the emblematic traditions of two fascinating countries, Spicy Passion is a subtle blend of South-African rooibos and the spicy aromas of Indian chai. TWO CULTURES
The first element is rooibos, which comes from the shrub of the same name, and is South Africa’s national drink. It is also known as “red tea” due to the color of the leaves after oxidation. Totally caffeine-free, it is good for wellbeing and rich in antioxidants. The infusion is delicious and slightly sweet. Spicy Passion also contains the warm, rich, spicy notes of Indian chai. An emblematic drink in this country, it is hugely popular across all social strata. Indians have a very particular way of drinking black tea: they infuse it in boiling milk, along with sugar and an astonishing mixture of spices such as clove, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and peppercorns. The blend varies according to the region and the required benefits.
To mark Valentine’s Day, Spicy Passion comes in a limited-edition canister decorated with a magnificent peacock and his peahen. The male fans out his tail feathers to seduce the female. A symbol of immortality in Europe and India, this bird is also widely used to represent love, seduction, marriage and fertility. They can be found in cultures from Ancient Greece to contemporary China. National bird of India, it is worshipped as a sacred creature and is associated with fertility. The peacock is well known for his courtship display, in which he fans and ruffles his extravagant, shimmering train.
A SEDUCTIVE MEETING OF CULTURES
Drawing inspiration from these fascinating traditions, Palais des Thés team have brought these two cultures together in this unusual but beautifully balanced and flavorsome blend. Composed in a spirit of seduction, Spicy Passion subtly charms the senses. Being caffeine-free, it can be enjoyed at any time.
LIMITED EDITION Ref.DV923Z. 120g (4.2oz) canister
Spicy Grapefruit Vodka Makes 4 cocktail glasses - 60mL pink grapefruit juice - 60mL pink grapefruit liqueur - 20mL cane sugar syrup - 120mL vodka - 7g (0.3oz or 2 tbsp) Spicy Passion in a large filter Infusion time: 5 hours Preparation time: 5 minutes Infuse the Spicy Passion in 400mL of cold filtered water for five hours in the fridge. In a large jug or carafe, combine the Spicy Passion infusion with the other ingredients.
The invigorating notes of grapefruit and vodka are the perfect match for the Spicy Passion. A fresh, lively cocktail for two to enjoy. Excessive alcohol consumption is harmful to health; consume in moderation.
5 •
Discovering exceptional teas in Malauıi There are always good surprises to be found in unexpected places, which is why Palais des Thés - particularly its founder François–Xavier Delmas – constantly travels the world. Recently he discovered some very high-quality teas in Malawi, Africa.
Today, the African continent is one of the key players on the global tea market. Since tea was introduced there at the beginning of the 20th century, production has grown substantially, mainly generating CTC* black teas for mass consumption. Grown in countries such as Kenya, Malawi, Uganda, Tanzania and Rwanda, African tea is mostly destined for export.
so we can offer the very best teas” explains François-Xavier Delmas. The plantation is located near the town of Thyolo at an altitude of 1,100 metres, on the high plateaux in the south of Malawi, where all the country’s teas are grown. They come from descendants of the first tea plants to be cultivated in the whole of Africa, in 1878. Today, Malawi is still the second biggest producer of African tea, after Kenya, with 50,000 tonnes per year. The subtropical climate is perfectly suited to growing tea plants, which must nonetheless be selected for their resistance to the severe drought that lasts for half the year.
Alongside this mass production, different types of tea are emerging. Like other regions of the world, such as Nepal, some plantation directors have been trying to improve quality over the past few years. “It is very likely that great teas will emerge in Rwanda, Kenya and Burundi” says François-Xavier Delmas. He has discovered some very special teas in Malawi, which are worthy of being included in the company’s prestige Grands Crus collection. Mr. Delmas travelled for 24 hours, including three flights and three hours in a 4x4, to reach the domain of Satemwa, which produces these teas.
On the large plantations of Satemwa they grow coffee and CTC* teas, but the owner, Alex Kay, is passionate about tea, and has set aside a small plot to develop very highquality whole-leaf teas that are processed by hand. Drawing inspiration from recognized expertise, he has carried out extensive research and experimentation to create his own teas, in his own style. He has also brought in specialist equipment, some of it from China and Taiwan. Unusually, he produces a wide range of tea colors: dark, black, green, semi-oxidized (oolong) and white.
“This is really what our work is all about, uncovering special teas that you won’t find anywhere else. We travel to meet passionate producers, and form long-lasting relations with them that go way beyond a commercial agreement. We are almost the only ones who do this. We talk with them, we support them. We observe the way they work, and pay close attention to ethical aspects. We do all this
The example of Satemwa may attract other producers in Malawi and Africa and, as has happened in Nepal, could lead to the development of high-quality plantations, which can only be a good thing.
What led François-Xavier Delmas to Malawi? It is “the same for all my trips: a number of pointers that encourage me to investigate, information gathered, people I meet, quality samples I taste...” he explains.
6 •
*CTC (crush-tear-curl): a technique which chops the leaves finely then rolls them into tiny balls.
TEA GROWS ON THE HIGH PLATEAUS OF MALAWI
THE WORK OF A MAN
GREAT CARE IS TAKEN WITH WHOLE-LEAF TEA
Alex Kay’s passion and hard work lie behind the emergence of very fine teas in Malawi. As the third generation at the head of the family plantation, this eldest son soon abandoned his economics studies to devote himself to what he truly loved: tea. Not satisfied with producing industrial tea, he spent time researching and experimenting in search of exceptional teas.
Discover our selection of Grand Crus from Malawi on page 9.
PLUCKERS GATHER LEGENDE CO URTE
FOR THE TEA TO BE WEIGHED
7 •
Grands Crus Winter 2016
HUAN TEAPOT - 0.7L Ref.M096. JIN HOU TEA GOLDEN MONKEY (see on page 10)
8 •
For winter 2016, we invite you to discover three delicious and impressive teas from Malawi, as well as some magnificent teas from China. These two countries offer wonderful tasting experiences with a variety of colors and flavors. We are also presenting a very special selection of our finest Grands Crus.
Grands Crus Winter 2016
Grand Crus from Malawi THYOLO OOLONG One of our recent favourites. This oolong, with large, loosely rolled olive green leaves, enchanted us with its powerful presence and rich aromas. It offers vegetal, camphor, floral and fruity notes, sustained by a delicate astringency. This rare and unique tea is produced in small quantities; don't delay in tasting it.
Ref.544A15.
SATEMWA DARK TEA Although this dark tea cannot be called a “Pu Erh”, as the name is specific to China, it is equally delicious. Balanced and harmonious, it develops notes of undergrowth and moss, which are then sweetened by lovely aroma of yellow fruit accents. This Grand Cru, with its subtle umami and sweet flavours, finishes on notes of liquorice and damp earth. A real journey for the taste buds.
Ref.540A15.
ZOMBA GREEN This elegant green tea has very harmonious aromas. Its pronounced vegetal and slightly floral notes transport us into nature. A touch of acidity and astringency give it a lovely finish in the mouth, which may evoke the freshness of some green Pu Erh. A delightful discovery!
Ref.541A15.
All the teas featured on these pages are Grands Crus harvested in very small quantities, available for a specific and limited time with no guarantee of future availability. Available until the batch has gone, these teas may suddenly go out of stock.
9 •
Grands Crus Winter 2016
Grands Crus from China Exceptional Grand Cru GALET OF PU-ERH - NAN NUO SHAN XO MILLESIME 2000 This rare 16 year-old Pu Erh galet is undoubtedly in a class of its own. The flavor could be compared to that of an old wine or great Armagnac. Its well-structured, silky texture releases clean, lively and powerful aromas. Deep animal, undergrowth (moss), wood and mushroom notes are revealed, complementing each other to create an exceptionally harmonious effect. A real treat for fans of Pu Erh!
Ref.C341A15. 360g (12.7oz) galet ANXI TIE GUAN YIN
JIN HOU GOLDEN MONKEY
Produced in Anxi, this delicious oolong is only lightly oxidized (10%). This technique results in a Grand Cru that is very different from traditional Tie Guan Yin. Intensely floral with flavoursome, fruity notes, this tea is highly sought-after in China.
Originally from Yunnan province, this is a delicate black tea with finely processed leaves. According to legend, the tea used to grow in inaccessible places, so monks trained monkeys to pick the leaves. This tea has flavorsome notes of honey, wood and malt.
Ref.2664A15.
Ref.2197A15.
Our special selection of Grands Crus
available throughout the year
GYOKURO HIKARI Gyokuro Hikari, meaning “dew drops” and “light”, is one of the most prestigious and sought-after Japanese green teas. It is made using a special method that deprives the plants of light for three weeks before harvest, with canvas sheets or straw. This creates marine and vegetal notes sustained by a mellow quality and an incomparable delicacy. A must-try Japanese tea.
Ref.300.
PERLES DE JASMIN This Grand Cru is processed in two stages, which demands an incredible amount of work. First, the leaves are rolled individually into balls, in April, with the green tea Green Needles harvest, then stored until August when the jasmine is picked. Large quantities of the extremely fragrant fresh flowers are mixed in with the tea repeatedly. This Grand Cru has no bitterness, and develops an exceptional floral note during the finish in the mouth. Essential!
Ref.248.
10 •
Our selection of Grands Crus is constantly evolving and expanding as we discover new teas and gardens on our travels. To find out about our new arrivals as soon as possible, please sign up for our newsletter via our website palaisdesthes.com
Grands Crus Winter 2016
Tasting notes Jukro Origin: Korea Color: black tea Water temperature: 90°C / 195°F Infusion time: 4’ Quantity for the teapot: 6g for 30 cL
Ref.280. From the highest gardens in Korea, situated at an altitude of 900 metres, this Grand Cru is a true exception among Korean teas, as it is the only black tea produced in the whole country. Using knowledge and skills handed down over three generations, Cho Yun-Seok is the passionate farmer who has produced this tea. Keen to break away from tradition, this tea explorer set about creating a black tea. His attempts were a success, and today, Jukro is considered to be one of the finest teas in the world. Dry leaf: Appearance: long, delicately rolled leaves, a beautiful brown color. Color: dark brown with a few golden glints. Aromas: very intense with notes of fruit (cooked fruit, jam), chocolate and vanilla right from the start, combined with burnt, milky (butter) notes. Infusion: Aromas: flavorsome vanilla notes to start, followed by a rich, complex bouquet of pronounced fruit (candied citrus, jam) that develops over underlying milky, and pronounced cocoa (cocoa bean) notes. Liquor: Coolor: a gleaming, coppery liquor. Texture in the mouth: a supple texture, full in the mouth, with a greasy feel that reinforces the milky sensation. Flavor: slightly sweet. Aromas: many notes: pronounced fruit (cooked fruit, jam) and vanilla to start, followed by milk (warm milk), chocolate and burnt notes such as roasted cocoa bean and caramel. These are joined by floral (dew) and dark honey hints. Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: the notes are longlasting, round and flavorsome, leaving a chocolaty impression. Very harmonious woody, vanilla notes. Our opinion: Plucked and processed entirely by hand, Jukro is astonishing, with a harmonious succession of delicious round, powerful notes. The amazing bouquet of cocoa and vanilla recalls the fragrance of the finest Qimen teas, while its richness and intensity evokes the best dark Oolongs. This tea is very unusual and offers a truly gourmet experience!
11 •
Time to shop Our Valentine’s Day selection SPICY PASSION Spicy Passion is an unexpected love match between rooibos, a caffeine-free South African plant, and the traditional Indian chai tea recipe. With its notes of ginger, cinnamon, and cardamom, it stimulates the senses for a deliciously sensual experience.
QING TEACUP - 10cL Taking its name from the Qing dynasty (1664-1912), the shape of this cup is typical of the porcelain manufactured at this period. Ref.N129.
Ref.DV923Z.
120g (4.2oz) canister
Our gourmet and spicy selection CHAI IMPERIAL A delicate black tea containing a sumptuous blend of green cardamom, pink peppercorns, cinnamon, ginger and orange zest. Ref.DV771X.
100g (3.5oz) canister Ref.D771N.
20 muslin bags
ROOIBOS DES VAHINÉS On a base of rooibos, the gourmet notes of almond and vanilla pod mingle in this mellow, warming blend. The tea, with its island flavors, is totally theine-free and can be enjoyed at any time of day or evening. Ref.DV856X. 100g (3.5oz) canister
12 •
Ref.D856N. 20 muslin bags
DRINK IT INDIAN-STYLE CHAI LATTE RECIPE
(serves 3) - Place 25cl water, 25cl milk, 30g (1.06oz) sugar and 10g (0.35oz) Chaï Impérial (or 5 tea bags) in a saucepan. - Bring to the boil and leave to simmer for 3 to 4 min. - Drink.
Celebrate chinese neuı year Introduction to Chinese teas
The historical and mythical birthplace of tea, China offers the largest and most varied palette of teas in the world. Its tea plantations are concentrated in the south-eastern provinces, where the contrasting climate conditions produce quite varied harvests. Discover our selection to learn about Chinese teas:
LONG JING
THÉ DU TIGRE
GRAND YUNNAN IMPÉRIAL
Also known as “Dragon’s Well”, Long Jing is one of the best-known Chinese green teas, appreciated around the world.
Thé du Tigre is a delicious smoked black tea. The superb leaves are processed in the traditional manner, over a fire of spruce roots.
The character and subtle quality of this floral, sweet black tea have earned it the name “the mocha of teas” or “surgeon’s tea”, because it awakens without over stimulating.
Ref.DV198X.
Ref.DV271X.
Ref.DV220X.
100g (3.5oz) canister
100g (3.5oz) canister
100g (3.5oz) canister
Ref.D198N.
Ref.D271N.
Ref.D220N.
20 muslin bags
20 muslin bags
20 muslin bags
Discover the art of Chinese tea
There is a Chinese art of tea which involves infusing the leaves in teapots made from Yi Xing clay (which comes from a town west of Shanghai). This clay has many properties that make it excellent for oxygenating tea. It also releases the aromas more than any other type of material. Yi Xing clay has a “flavor memory”, meaning a particular teapot should always be used to prepare the same type of tea.
HUAN TEAPOT - 0.7L
HUAN TEACUP - 20cL
A beautiful combination of Yi Xing clay and coppery metal, the HUAN teapot continues a tradition of craftsmanship perfected over many generations. Ref.M096.
Crafted with the greatest care by the artisan potters of Yi Xing, this cup has a smooth and silky finish, and a unique character. Ref.N006C.
13 •
Tea and dessert pairings
For every dessert there is a tea to match When it is time for dessert or a sweet snack, tea and pastry offer superb pairings that bring out the flavors of each. So which tea goes with which pastry?
FINANCIERS AND DONG DING Dong Ding is the perfect match for a financier. The oolong tea and the financier are both smooth and melting, harmoniously blending their milky, vanilla notes. The financier seems lighter, and the tea develops delicate notes of flowers and frangipane.
Dong Ding is considered by connoisseurs to be one of the best oolongs from Taiwan. Silky yet lively, it has lovely floral, fruity and woody notes.
Ref.264.
CANNELÉS AND THÉ DU HAMMAM BLACK LEAF Cannelés go particularly well with Thé du Hammam Black lack Leaf. Their delicious notes of fruit, vanilla and spices are the perfect match. The tea seems to be sweetened by the pastry, and its hints of cooked fruit and rhubarb jam are accentuated.
Thé du Hammam Black Leaf is a delicious combination of a deep yet delicate Chinese black tea with flavors of red fruit, rhubarb and flowers. Ref.855.
CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES AND JUKRO Savored with a cup of Jukro, chocolate truffles become intensely cocoa flavored. The heat of the tea melts the truffle which turns creamier and releases its intense fragrances in complete harmony with the Jukro’s notes of cocoa and vanilla.
To find out more about Jukro, see page 11 of this issue of Bruits de Palais.
Ref.280.
14 •
Visit our stores in March to discover our delicious tea and chocolate pairings
THE THÉOPHILE CARD The Théophile card gives you access to a number of benefits, available on our website, mail-order purchases and in Palais des Thés stores: - enjoy a 10% discount on all purchases for one year (except books: maximum legal discount of 5% applies), - take advantage of preferential rates for a number of special offers and receive exclusive gifts, - receive our Bruits de Palais newsletter, giving you a sneak preview into new teas and keeping you up-to-date with the latest tea-related news. By spending €80 on loose tea in the year, you automatically renew the benefits of your card for the following year.
Important: each time you visit the shop, remember to present your Théophile Card so that your purchases can be recorded. For your orders on the Internet, register your card in your customer account. For your orders by post, write your card number on your order form. The Théophile Card cannot be used in the United States.
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François-Xavier Delmas’ blog discoveringtea.com
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Photo credits: Palais des Thés photographic background: François-Xavier Delmas. Except: ZORAN p2, p11, p14 ; K. Manchego p2, p5, p8, p9, p10, p12, p13, p16 ; Presswall (Charly Pouplin) p10, p13, p14 ; Image source (Getty Images) p5 - Design: ZORAN. Bruits de Palais is printed on paper from sustainbly managed forests. It is certified as being whitened with a chlorine-free bleach. 100% vegetable inks.
LIMITED EDITION
Spicy Passion Passionately spicy Let yourself be seduced by this subtly spiced creation. Spicy Passion is a bold combination of two drinks that are typical of their countries: South African rooibos and Indian chai. To mark Valentine's Day, a pair of peacocks – a sacred bird in India and a symbol of seduction – embellish a beautiful limited-edition canister. Available as 120g (4.2 oz) metal canister Ref.DV923Z. or loose leaf Ref.923. To find out more about the tea and discover a cocktail recipe, see on page 5.
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