MARCH/APRIL 2009
Coastal rainforest
Jewels of history
Geisha renaissance
Premium whisky bars
Electric vehicles
Gastronomy summit
contents
MARCH/APRIL 2009 – Volume 5, Issue 2
A look into life’s dazzling diversity
DESTINATIONS
CULTURE
TRENDS
Port of Dreams 7
Geisha Comeback 12
Power to the Battery 15
By Nicole Fall
By Justin McCurry
By Julian Ryall
Celebrities flock Down Under to this luxury spot where the pristine Pacific waves almost lap against the lush rainforest.
More young Japanese women of late are turning their back on modern careers to become traditional geisha.
Electric vehicles will help make the world a Better Place sooner than we think, thanks to this pioneering company.
STYLE
DINING
TECHNOLOGY
Family Values 18
Most Definitely not Mizuwari 21
The No-frills Netbook 24
By Catherine Shaw
By Justin McCurry
By John Boyd
Being the world’s oldest jewelers with a fascinating history helps this French family owned company buck the economic downturn.
Specialist bars selling premium single malts, in contrast, make the salaryman’s staple of mizuwari taste cheap and nasty.
Small, light and inexpensive, mini-notebooks are unlikely bestsellers that bridge the gap between a PC and a smart phone.
KALEIDOSCOPE LIFESTYLES IS DELIVERED INSIDE: • Wall Street Journal Asia (Tokyo)
HEALTH
LUXURY MOTORS
Haute & Healthy 25
Cadillac Is Back! 28
By Tony McNicol
By Ivan Murzikov
Global superchefs serve up their philosophies and principles to Tokyo for the World Summit of Gastronomy 2009.
The diminishing executive car market long dominated by Europe embraces an unlikely newcomer from the U.S.—the stylish CTS.
KALEIDOSCOPE LIFESTYLES IS PLACED IN THE FOLLOWING EXCLUSIVE LOCATIONS: • Apartments 33 • Oakwood Serviced Apartments • Bureau Shinagawa Residences • Mori Residences • Frasers Place Howff Shinjuku • Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-so • Mandarin Oriental Tokyo • Hilton Tokyo • Roppongi Hills Club
REGULARS FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK 3
• Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Japan
CHOICE CHOICES 4 Moving services. Helping babies. Ginza jewelry. Early learning.
• Yokohama Country & Athletic Club • Tokyo American Club • The British School in Tokyo
Published by: Paradigm, Kamiyama Ambassador 209, 18-6 Kamiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0047, Japan. Tel: (03) 5478-7941, Fax: (03) 5478-7942, E-mail: inquiries@paradigm.co.jp Publisher: Vickie Paradise Green | Editor-in-Chief: Simon Farrell | Editor: David Umeda | Creative Director: Richard Grehan | Art Director: Akiko Mineshima Editorial Researcher: Francesca Penazzi | Advertising Sales: Eileen Chang, Sarit Huys, Helene Jacquet, Leai Kubotsuka
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FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK
Old money, new ideas Two features this issue acknowledge the Japanese appreciation for history, culture and craftsmanship, while two others promote a cleaner, greener option for commuters and travelers. You can’t buy style, some people sniff, it comes with pedigree. Perhaps that’s why the world’s oldest jewelers (page 18) are shrugging off the economic pressures in Japan by confirming their solid presence here. Indeed, it could also be the French company’s fascinating history that commands such a loyal clientele, even in hard times. However, disillusion with the economy and the stress of modern life is perhaps leading a small but growing number of young Japanese women lately to embrace traditional culture as a career. Geisha Comeback (page 12) also offers uninformed visitors guidance on not offending Kyoto’s authentic kimono-clad attractions. It’s back to the future on page 15 with a look at clean energy for cars. With so much focus on this fast-developing subject in the global media, it’s refreshing to take a look at what is actually happening here and now. The conclusion is that drivers may be much closer in Japan to topping up with electricity, supplanting those greasy gas stations. Another notable cultural shift few people will mourn is that of the Bubble era salaryman’s traditional tipple of mizuwari to a more refined
single malt, as our feature about the popularity of premium whisky bars in Tokyo reports on page 21. Finally, think you’ve done all the short-haul trips from Tokyo, such as SE Asia, South Korea and China? Our cover story offers one direct evening flight you may have missed: Port Douglas. As this sleepy village in the far north of Australia just seven hours from Narita has two World Heritage spots with abundant exotic flora and fauna, it enforces an environmental policy to control development, ensuring a certain exclusivity and high standards without the hassles associated with better-known resort areas in the region.
Simon Farrell Editor-in-Chief simonfarrell@paradigm.co.jp
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CHOICE CHOICES
move like a tiger! Relocating to a different culture can be a nerve-racking and stressful experience. It need not be so. The Asian Tigers group’s unmatched expertise in the move management and relocation industry makes any employee transfer a simple and smooth experience. With 27 offices in 13 countries and employing over 1,500 staff, the Asian Tigers group is Asia’s leading moving and relocation group. And they show it by offering a service of unparalleled support in relocating throughout Asia—and to or from anywhere else in the world. With their co-ownership and memberships in the industryrecognized OMNI and FIDI groups, the Asian Tigers group has over 480 partner/affiliated offices representing every country on the globe. They provide certifiable quality standards, services and financial stability with the Asian Tigers group’s industrybenchmark FAIM accreditation. They are the international relocation specialists, and will work with you to plan a great move to or from Japan.
Contact Asian Tigers today for a no-obligation corporate consultation and/or free estimate for any move. Director of Sales & Marketing, andrew.olea@asiantigers-japan.com or Tel: 03-6402-2371. www.asiantigers-japan.com Asian Tigers Move Management Specialists
cultivating human values Maria’s Babies Society has focused their research efforts on the goal of achieving an ideal balance between academic and creative learning experiences. Their mission is to take full advantage of this once-in-a-lifetime early childhood period to cultivate the individual abilities and fundamental human values of children aged 1-6, within an atmosphere of love. Rich in musical and artistic opportunities, Maria’s Babies Society provides an environment that promotes the development of cultural sensitivity. They have daily concerts and art exhibitions, as well as eurhythmics and violin lessons. The program also begins nurturing a sense of responsibility towards the earth from a young age, as this will be an essential quality of future global citizens. A progressive ecology education program, Green Science, familiarizes children with the nature of
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Japan while promoting a sense of wonder, encouraging children to constantly ask, “Why?” All teachers and staff at MBS are engaged in a consistent daily effort to train children in sound social skills and good manners. This process is also enhanced by the peer modeling that naturally occurs in a mixed-age environment. Based on the British National Curriculum, the educational program at Maria’s Babies Society ensures that children will acquire the high-level academic skills required for their next stage of education. 3-36-20 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3404-3468, Fax: 03-3404-3625 E-mail: maria@mariasbabies.co.jp www.mariasbabies.co.jp
bejeweled Tokyo’s most prestigious shopping district has been home since 1926 to the flagship store of one of the most reputable jewelry retailers in Japan. Well known for an extensive selection of gold and platinum jewelry, GINZA TANAKA also offers a wide range of quality diamond and pearl jewelry. Defining an illustrious history of 117 years at its outlets in Shinjuku, Yokohama Motomachi, and in other major metropolises such as Osaka, Nagoya, Fukuoka and Sendai, GINZA TANAKA will be opening in March its eighth store in the elegant Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-so, with its picturesque Japanese garden and expansive world-class YU, The Spa. As a subsidiary company of the largest precious metal dealer in Japan, Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo, GINZA TANAKA also trades in gold and platinum bullion bars, and coins with individual investors. www.ginzatanaka.co.jp/en/
Creativity, Confidence, Friendship Headquartered in San Francisco, Gymboree is the pioneer and worldwide leader of interactive parent-child early learning programs for children under 1 to 5 years old, and has more than 500 franchises in more than 30 countries around the world. For over 30 years, parents have trusted Gymboree Play & Music to provide a warm community where they can encourage their child’s development. Since its founding, Gymboree’s philosophy has been to focus on the whole child—to support physical, cognitive and social/ emotional skills in a nurturing and fun environment. Its ageappropriate programs encourage children to become engaged and active learners, and expose them to important social interactions and activities such as sharing, taking turns and exploring with their peers. Whether your child enjoys running around in our play classes, moving to various music styles in the music classes or using paint and play dough in the art classes, you will find a class at Gymboree that matches your child’s needs. Free trials are offered daily. Please contact your local site or visit the Web site to sign your child up today! Tel: 03-5449-2311 (Motoazabu), 03-3723-0651 ( Jiyugaoka) www.gymboree.jp
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DESTINATIONS
At this five-star Australian celebrity spot, the sea meets a rainforest. By nicolE fall Port Douglas is not just any old seaside resort窶馬or, for that matter, by any old clump of trees. This sleepy village of around 1,000 permanent residents is, in fact, adjacent to two World Heritage spots: the Great Barrier Reef and the Daintree Rainforest.
Photos Courtesy Tourism North Queensland
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FOR SALE
JAPANESE TRADITIONAL FAMILY HOME Rare opportunity to own a “Registered Tangible Cultural Property.” Built 100 years ago, this original family home is set in beautiful traditional gardens on a large plot measuring 1,500 M2. Asking price 500 million yen (negotiable) For more details on this unique property, please contact Ogawa-no-kiku Co., Ltd. at info@ogawa-residence.com
M ARIA’S B ABIES S OCIETY Cultivating Individual Abilities and Fundamental Human Values Maria’s Babies Society offers a well-researched educational program that balances academic learning and creativity development. Its mission is to cultivate the individual abilities and basic human values of children—thereby molding each child into a confident young student fully prepared to move on to the next stage of education and, ultimately, to cope with the challenges of this rapidly changing world. Features of the MBS program that contribute to fulfillment of our mission: • Learning criteria in all subjects based on the British National Curriculum. • Progressive “Green Science” ecology lessons that stimulate curiosity and nurture a sense of responsibility towards the earth. • Development of cultural sensitivity through daily concerts and art exhibitions, as well as eurhythmics and violin lessons. • Consistent and developmentally-appropriate training in proper social skills.
M ARIA’S B ABIES S OCIETY 3-36-20 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel. 03-3404-3468 Fax: 03-3404-3625 E-mail: maria@mariasbabies.co.jp. www.mariasbabies.co.jp
destinations
The Great Barrier Reef is known worldwide. Its lesser known, but equally beautiful relative, the Daintree, is not only Australia’s largest forest, it’s also the world’s oldest living rainforest, at 140 million years old. Now throw into the mix some modern, manmade features— including a dozen golf courses, a range of five-star luxury resorts, some of Australia’s best restaurants and a year-round tropical climate—and Port Douglas really does begin to sound a bit like paradise on Earth. Also appealing is a convenient seven-hour direct flight from Narita to Cairns that departs every evening, flying into the top right-handside of Australia, or Far North Queensland (FNQ), just in time for breakfast. From the airport, Port, as it is known, is a 45-min drive north along a coastal road that hugs hairpin turns cut out of coastal rock, overlooking mile upon mile of deserted beach. Upon arriving, there are a number of elements tourists notice immediately. Firstly, there are no high-rise buildings. In fact, you will be hard-pressed to find a building with more than three levels at all because local planning regulations stipulate all property has to be built below the top of palm tree-level. This marvelous law has ensured that Port retains its charming backwater image; and a visit to Port’s Four Mile Beach means there are just three views on offer. To the front, looking out to the horizon, the gentle lapping waves of the Coral Sea extend into infinity. To the left and right, buttercup-colored sand beaches scattered with palm fronds stretch for miles on end—and framing the sand, a row of palm trees and the rolling hills of the Daintree forest beyond.
The next thing you might see, or even just hear, is some of Port’s abundant wildlife. Eye-catching green and red lorikeets are a common sight as, too, are flying foxes or fruit bats that grip low tree boughs. This curious creature looks part squirrel, part miniature hand glider. Less common, but certainly omnipresent in Port’s creeks and lakes—and sometimes the sea, too—are its “salties,” or saltwater crocodiles. Beside all bodies of water are bright yellow triangular warning signs; a constant reminder that humans are still relative newcomers in this wildlife-infested, remote region. If that’s scary, skip the next paragraph. For in this part of the world, it’s probably best you avoid the sea entirely for at least four months of the year, during the wet season, when deadly box jellyfish known as “stingers” roam the Coral Sea, potentially killing humans with one sting. At Four Mile Beach, there is a shark net in place so fans of the ocean can swim in relative safety; but the truth is, it’s very unlikely the average tourist will ever see a wild shark, stinger or even a saltie during their time in Port. Unless, of course, you order a crocodile steak sandwich, which is one of the more unusual additions to menus in the area. Talking of food, be prepared for a gourmet experience. There are at least a dozen fine-dining options from which to choose in Port and probably around 50 restaurant choices in total—ranging from local sandwich bars through to family-friendly hotels (i.e., pubs), an astonishing array considering Port’s diminutive size.
KaleidoscopeAD_mar09.pdf
Saint Maur International School Pre-K (Age 21/2 ) to Grade 12 - Coeducational
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Montessori International Primary Curriculum (IPC) International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) International Baccalaureate (IB) Advanced Placement (AP) SAT Reasoning Test SAT Subject Tests PSAT/NMSQT Lions-Quest international programme Trinity International Music Examination
Ecole française de Saint Maur Classes à effectifs réduits et pédagogie différenciée pour une scolarisation de la maternelle au CM2 ● ● ●
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Programmes de l'Education nationale française Professeurs des écoles qualifiés et expérimentés Maternelle en anglais selon la méthode Montessori avec séance quotidienne de langage en français Elémentaire en français avec certaines disciplines et activités en anglais
Quality Education within a Caring Environment since 1872 Accredited by the Council of International Schools & New England Association of Schools and Colleges. Registered as Gakko-Hojin by the Japanese Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology.
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office@stmaur.ac.jp www.stmaur.ac.jp
Ce n a l T tr
83 Yamate-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-8654 Tel: 045 641 5751 / Fax: 045 641 6688
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Por t Douglas Cuisine Nautilus 17 Murphy St. Tel: 07-4099-5330 On The Inlet 3 Inlet St. Tel: 07-4099-5255 The Beach Shack 29 Barrier St. Tel: 07-4099-1100 Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas Resort Davidson St. Tel: 07-4099-5888 Peppers Beach Club 20-22 Davidson St. Tel: 07-4087-1000 Pool 19-37 St Crispins Ave.
Do not miss Nautilus for pre-dinner drinks, though. It’s situated in the center of Port, within a small patch of rainforest. A canopy of trees and romantically lit candles provide a tropical backdrop for yummy cocktails, including Lychee & Lime Caipiroska—a tempting blend of vodka, lychee liqueur muddled with lychee fruit and lime segments. Its menu features a fusion of contemporary Australian and Asian influences, with a produce emphasis on locally sourced seafood and meat. Another stalwart of the local dining scene is On The Inlet restaurant. Shack-like, it features quaint marine-accented interior touches, and is laidback enough to drop in for lunch and leave at chucking-out time some 12 hours later. Views across the Coral Sea and jungle-covered mountains are priceless—as are the freshly caught mud crabs, crayfish, barramundi and prawns cooked any way you want. Also well worth a visit is The Beach Shack, a sandy floor-covered outdoor-style café that is low on pretense, but high on quality. Its staples— wood-fired pizzas and fish-and-chips—takes homestyle cooking to new levels. The daily specials include pan-fried barramundi coated with macadamia nuts and served with mash—a true gourmet feast. Options on accommodations are also plentiful—ranging from Balinese-style villas with private pools at the gated community Balé, through to golf course-views at the Sheraton Mirage resort.
The Sheraton is the town’s best-known hotel, a five-star beachfront property set in 147ha of lush tropical gardens, with 2ha of magnificent blue lagoons that invite a swim. Equally pretty is Pepper’s Beach Club, an Asia-meetsMediterranean resort situated equidistant from Port’s main shopping and entertainment thoroughfare, Macrossan Street, and the beach. Visitors looking for more contemporary-style accommodations will appreciate Pool, a series of hotel-style apartments that feature swim-up rooms, private terraces and a huge 196m swimming pool accented with designer furniture. There are no rules in Port, and visitors are encouraged to be as active or as lazy as they please. Exploring the nearby rainforest, scuba diving off the reef, visiting Aboriginal settlements, playing golf or feeding the kangaroos at the outstanding Natural Habitat wildlife sanctuary are just a few of the many activities in the area. Topping up your glass of wine while you recline by the hotel pool is also actively encouraged. It’s no wonder Bill and Hillary Clinton, Mick Jagger, Madonna, Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sean Penn, Glenn Close, Nicolas Cage and Matthew McConaughey call Port their holiday home away from home.
Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo. Kaleidoscope / 11
culture
geisha comeback By Justin McCurry photoS By Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert
Geishaland this is not, as a surge of young women take up the arts to join the ancient “flower and willow world.�
Last year Kyoto’s maiko population exceeded 100 for the first time in more than four decades.
T
he rise in the number of young Japanese women hoping to become geisha is a welcome development for visitors to Kyoto at a time when, exchange rate woes notwithstanding, tourism to the ancient capital is in the midst of a mini-boom. But the good news comes with a catch. Late last year volunteers in Gion, the best known of the city’s five hanamachi, or geisha districts, began dispensing advice to tourists on the dos and don’ts of a brief encounter with one of the beguiling women of the “flower and willow world.” While much of the blame for indiscretions involving visitors has been heaped, unfairly, on foreigners, such is the geisha’s place in the international tourist consciousness that it was only a matter of time before the culture clash produced some unpleasant side effects. In widely reported breakdowns in etiquette, working geisha—or geiko as they are known locally—and maiko apprentices are routinely pestered as visitors dispense with their manners in an attempt to capture that perfect holiday snap. Misdemeanors range from tugging at the sleeves of kimono costing tens of thousands of dollars, to unsolicited photography—and interrupting conversations between the women and their clients: men, and sometimes women, who have paid large sums for an evening of food, drink and innocent pleasures in the company of geisha. For the savvy visitor, the presence of rude tour groups, often dragged around by an inexperienced guide armed with a loudspeaker, needn’t ruin the geisha experience. Though the yen’s appreciation has inevitably affected tourist numbers to Japan in recent months, in 2007 a record 50 million overseas visitors stayed in Kyoto for at least one night. They came to browse the antique markets, marvel at the shrines and temples, and immerse themselves in the spirit of Miyako in this ancient capital
city (Heian Era, 794-1185). For many, that means a close encounter with a geiko or maiko. Where once visitors might have struggled to obtain more than a fleeting glance of a maiko disappearing behind the wooden slatted doors of an exclusive teahouse, now the possibilities seem endless. Though numbers will never return to their 1920s heyday, when there were about 800 geisha in Gion alone, the past year has seen a steady rise in interest in entering the floating world of tea and flower ceremonies, social engagements, and traditional music and dance. Last year Kyoto’s maiko population exceeded 100 for the first time in more than four decades. In 1965 the city was home to 76 maiko; but by the late 1970s the number had fallen to 28, before recovering to between 50 and 80 for most of the past three decades. The recent revival owes much to the prominence of geisha in pop culture: in films and TV dramas, books—and now in the form of blogs and Web sites as the teahouses attempt to cast off their rarefied image and gently embrace the digitally connected world beyond. The new generation of prospective geiko includes Miehina, the sole maiko resident of Harutomi teahouse in Kyoto’s Miyagawacho district. Just 21, but with four years of hard training behind her, Miehina is still surprised she entered the profession at all.
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CULTURAL LINKS A Sights and Nights walking tour, followed by drinks, snacks, dance and chat with maiko or geiko costs ¥50,000 per person, with discounts for groups. The full VIP treatment, which includes walking tour, two hours of geisha and maiko live entertainment, chat, food and drink, costs ¥120,000 per person. Peter MacIntosh acts as interpreter for both options. www.kyotosightsandnights.com/ Bar Hanagumo hanagumo.com/ Hairstyle museum www6.ocn.ne.jp/~yamato93/ Handicraft center www.kyotohandicraftcenter.com/ General geisha site www.immortalgeisha.com/ .
“It wasn’t that I didn’t want to become a maiko,” she says. “I just didn’t think I could. I wasn’t mentally prepared for all the training involved.” She finally overcame her reticence after accepting that, once ensconced in Harutomi under the watchful eye of her retired geisha “mother,” life would never be the same again. “I knew that if I was to become part of this, things would be totally different for me than they are for other girls,” says Miehina. The daily routine of trainees can be grueling. Though they have a roof over their heads and are well looked after, they can go six years without a salary and often work 25 days a month. Miehina is rarely in bed before 3 a.m. and has just two Sundays off a month. Qualification as a geisha (literally, person of the arts) requires learning the three-stringed shamisen, the tea ceremony, flower arranging and a raft of other skills—and to hold their own should conversation with clients turn to politics or the stock market. One of her regular patrons is Peter MacIntosh, a longtime Canadian resident of Kyoto and an authority on all things geisha. MacIntosh has used his knowledge to build a business that includes a bar, walking tours of the geisha districts, filmmaking, consultancy and the rare opportunity to spend an evening in the company of a geiko or maiko. “I prepare people for what’s coming so that when they meet a maiko on the street they know what they can and can’t do, and use their brief time to ask her questions I can’t answer,” he says of tourist etiquette.
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“When they are promoted as symbols, then it’s natural for people to want to get up close,” says MacIntosh. “But this isn’t Geishaland.” For those with time, the full geisha experience wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Tetsuo Ishihara’s Museum of Traditional Hairstyles—run by one of the few remaining maiko hairdressers in Kyoto—or the many kimono and ornament shops in the area. If en route you pass a geiko or maiko, MacIntosh has a few tips to ensure the encounter is memorable for both parties and for the right reasons: don’t touch her, and if she is with a customer, ask his permission to take photographs. “Don’t ask the maiko because she’s on the clock,” he says. “The client is paying for her time.” At Hanagumo—the bar MacIntosh runs in a 100-year-old building once occupied by a teahouse—the services range from an hour to 90 minutes with a maiko over light food and drinks, while more lavish affairs, including dance and shamisen performances, are held at a local restaurant or teahouse. “It’s not cheap,” he concedes, “but remember you’re being entertained by highly skilled women dressed in what are essentially museum pieces. “And remember when a maiko or geiko is with you,” says MacIntosh, “they know how to make you feel like you’re the only person in the room.” Justin McCurry is The Guardian’s Tokyo correspondent.
trends
power to the battery! By Julian Ryall
The reality of everyday electric-powered vehicles is closer than you think.
Shai Agassi has a pretty simple ambition; he wants to make the world a better place. Formerly an executive with SAP AG, Agassi found his imagination piqued by a simple question posed at the 2005 World Economic Forum in Davos: “How do you make the world a better place by 2020?”
Photos Courtesy Better Place
It is a question that many have contemplated but few attempted to conquer. Agassi set out to do the latter and, in 2007, created Better Place—with the ambition of freeing vehicles from their dependence on oil, reducing harmful emissions and ushering in a new era of sustainable mobility. In a very short space of time, he and his team have made some impressive advances around the world. Last year, Israel became the first country in the world to embrace the Better Place model of constructing a network that encourages large-scale adoption of electric vehicles. Working with Renault-Nissan Alliance, similar progress has been achieved in Denmark, Australia, California and Hawaii. Essentially, the batteries of a zero-emission vehicle need three elements to ensure optimum functionality: charging spots, battery switching stations and the software required to automate the process. Charging spots keep batteries topped up with power so they constantly have the energy to travel 100 miles (160km). They can be located beside your parking spot at the office, outside shopping malls and restaurants, or at home. You just plug the car in. For journeys beyond 100 miles, battery-switching stations will be constructed alongside roads. The changeover will be completely automated, so the driver need not have to step outside the vehicle.
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Minister of Environment Tetsuo Saito and former Formula 1 driver Ukyo Katayama
As an added bonus, since most electric vehicles will likely be recharged in the evenings at home, energy from renewable sources— such as solar power or wind energy—could be used to top up the car. The government of Japan now has recognized the benefits of making this country a better place. The company was named in December as a participant in the first government-led electric vehicle project in Japan this century. “We were very honored to be the only foreign company invited by the Ministry of Environment to participate,” says Kiyotaka Fujii, president of Better Place Japan and head of business development for the Asia-Pacific region. “Better Place is building the world’s first battery-switch station for electric vehicles to showcase this technology in the world’s biggest auto-manufacturing nation,” says Fujii. “The switch station is an important part of our network, one of the main goals of which is convenience. The station acts as a range extender, giving drivers the option of extending a trip beyond the 160km range of a fully charged battery.” To be unveiled in April in Yokohama, the station automatically exchanges or switches your depleted battery for a fully charged one in less time than it takes to fill your gas tank. The ministry issued a statement that set out its aim of having half of all the new vehicles sold in the year 2020 be powered by electricity in order to inch closer to the carbon-free society the government is desiring. Under a feasibility study, more than 50 electric vehicles—including a battery-exchange vehicle—will be used by local government officials.
The scheme ends in the summer, although Fujii hopes the study will demonstrate possibilities for the future. “Beyond the study, we believe the collaboration between the public and private sectors represented by the ministry project will be just the start, and will provide impetus for the adoption of electric cars and related infrastructure in Japan,” he says. “One day, we hope to play a role in helping Japan reduce its oil dependence and harmful emissions, and move toward sustainable transportation.” The benefits are clear, the company says. Reducing oil dependence benefits the Japanese economy, the environment and the health of citizens, while constructing the infrastructure for electric cars creates jobs. Electric cars are also quieter than their gas or diesel counterparts; cheaper to own and operate; more reliable because they involve less maintenance than gas-powered vehicles; and have equal, or even better, acceleration and performance than conventional cars. “Awareness, interest and receptiveness seem to grow every day,” says Fujii. “Momentum behind electrification of the automobile is accelerating faster than we predicted one year ago. In public and private sectors worldwide, electric vehicles increasingly are seen as a viable, scalable and sustainable alternative to petrol cars and the harmful emissions they generate.” That message has clearly resonated among the biggest names in the auto industry, with most major automakers having participated in the January North American International Auto Show in Detroit that
emphasized electric cars as an intensifying strategic component of their technology and product roadmap. At the moment, Israel leads the world with its commitment to Better Place’s electric vehicles, and construction of charge spots and battery-switch stations predicted to increase over the next two years—and commercial availability commencing in 2011. Before the electric vehicles hit the road, it is vital to have the infrastructure in place, according to Better Place, in order to ensure that the transition is as seamless as possible—and to avoid shortages or queues at battery stations. As soon as the model has been proven to be functional, then it can be applied on a much larger scale. The encouraging response to Better Place’s concept has been the question, “Where can I buy a car?” “The recent volatility in oil prices has not fundamentally changed that dynamic,” says Fujii. “Regardless of price, we believe reducing dependence on oil and polluting emissions is a necessary move. The price of oil dropped because of the current economic challenges, not because more oil was discovered. “Many governments around the world are increasingly looking to green infrastructure projects to create job growth and build,” he says. “They want a future planet for their children.”
Julian Ryall is The Daily Telegraph’s Tokyo correspondent.
Reducing oil dependence benefits the Japanese economy, the environment and the health of citizens, while constructing the infrastructure for electric cars creates jobs.
style
family values The fascinating story behind the world’s oldest jewelers.
I
n Japan, multi-generational, family-run businesses are pretty much par for the course—where long-term success is often measured over centuries, not decades. Perhaps that is why Mellerio dits Meller, the world’s oldest jewelry company, considers Japan one of its most important markets outside of France. The story of how the family business began is almost like a fairy tale. Legend has it that a young chimneysweep from the Mellerio home of Lombardy, Italy, reported a plot he had overheard to assassinate King Louis XIII. A grateful Regent granted protection to the village; and a unique privilege of working in France without paying taxes, including Paris, the ultimate market of the day.
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Photos Courtesy Mellerio dits Meller
By Catherine Shaw
“We’ve got a very long history and we’ve come to understand that the Japanese like what we are, especially since craftsmanship is held in such high regard.”
In response, an adventurous Mellerio left his home at the start of the 16th Century, crossing the Alps on foot to reach Paris. Jean-Baptiste Mellerio’s humble beginnings involved selling jewelry close to the gates of the Château de Versailles. By the end of the 18th Century, the Mellerio family was famous in Paris, thanks mainly to his descendent Jean-Baptiste. Marie-Antoinette found him particularly entertaining, and so allowed Mellerio to carry out the family business within the palace. The family has gone on to enjoy the patronage of many famous jewelry aficionados, including the Empress Josephine Bonaparte. How does one deal with the pressure of being the 14th generation in the Mellerio family business—especially when facing the worst economic recession of modern times? Mellerio is less affected by the market downturn than the large brands. Says co-director Olivier Mellerio during one of his regular visits to Tokyo: “Our market is very different; our clients are also affluent but older, so we don’t rely on quick and heavy sales.” Japan has been a learning experience for the Mellerio brand, he adds. “It is a very difficult and demanding market, so I think we’ve learned a lot working here. For instance, we have a store at Wako, right in
the heart of Ginza. Wako has just remodeled the store, and were very demanding about every detail,” Mellerio says. “Even from a very early age, Japanese learn what quality is; and Wako is a pure example of this. Their constraints are almost more than any other country, but it is good for our company to set the highest standards.” The experience of Japan’s Bubble economy [mid- to late-1980s] also had an interesting impact on the Mellerio business, he says. “That time pushed consumers to make a choice between marketing brands, between those with no substance and those with authentic history and substance,” says Mellerio. “So that was good for us.” Mellerio happily admits his company does not enjoy the worldwide fame or brand awareness of bigger companies like Cartier or Tiffany. We are still a family-owned company and very traditional. We’ve got a very long history,” he explains, “and we’ve come to understand that the Japanese like what we are, especially since craftsmanship is held in such high regard.” Besides, there is already a backlash against well-known brands that are everywhere and, therefore, “not very exciting,” warns Mellerio. “Japanese are now looking for something distinctive. We don’t have the pressure to grow for growing sake. It is more important to stick to our values.
Kaleidoscope / 19
“We even have pictures of the bracelet Marie Antoinette bought from Mellerio and gave to one of her confidantes before she was led to the scaffold.”
“Of course, we also need to invest, but at the same time we must remain comfortable with quality and at the same time be elegant, not flashy,” he continues. “If you grow too quickly, you lose the balance and lose control.” Mellerio dits Meller’s sustained success lies with an established clientele, especially in France where noble families tend to buy madeto-order creations for weddings and special gifts. “This has been our base for centuries: wedding rings and jewels that are handed down through life by families,” says Mellerio. “The quality of the stones and the savoir faire is extremely important.” The true value of jewelry lies with the reputation of the company— as much as in the craftsmanship and quality of stones used. Famous auction houses such as Sotheby’s rely heavily on the vast Mellerio records on every piece ever sold. “They call us nearly every month to know if we can find out when the jewelry was made and who it was close to,” he says. Mellerio believes even emerging luxury markets like China are beginning to learn the value of a brand. “I remember 20-30 years ago when we went to Hong Kong. Wealthy people were always talking about price. They looked at magazines and had the jewelry copied by their local jeweler,” he says. “This has totally changed now. They understand the value of the jewelry is the value of the brand. “If you want to sell it after some time and it is not signed, it has only the value of the stones,” says Mellerio. “Even then, you have some difficulty getting the right price. “Come to Paris. I’ll show you records of pieces dating back centuries,” he continues. “We even have pictures of the Mellerio bracelet Marie Antoinette gave to one of her confidantes before she was led to the scaffold.” History, indeed. Catherine Shaw is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.
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dining
most definitely not mizuwari Peaty, smoky, peppery and flowery, premium single malts have supplanted mizuwari in specialist bars for Tokyo’s whisky cognoscenti. By Justin McCurry photos By Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert
T
he painstaking process of turning grain into liquid amber may have begun thousands of years ago in Scotland, but Japan’s prodigious thirst for fine whisky has turned Tokyo into the best place on Earth to sample a drop of the best the mother country’s distilleries can offer. Whether it’s the comfort of a peaty, smoky Bowmore or Lagavulin, or the refreshment that comes with a light, flowery Glenmorangie or Macallan, the Japanese capital is without peer. Predictably, the requirements of an exceptional whisky watering hole differ from one drinker to the next; but by most people’s reckoning, Tokyo is home to around 50 such bars—each stocking at least 100 malt whiskies. Here, in the midst of the world’s biggest metropolis, it is possible to be transported to the great whisky distilling regions—the Highlands and Lowlands, Islay and Campbelltown—in the time it takes the first drop of lovingly tended malt to trickle down the throat. Twenty years ago, whisky drinking in Japan invariably meant a tumbler of a cheap, blended variety supped with copious amounts of water or ice—or both—the setting a karaoke snack bar where the whisky list was secondary to the song collection. It was a time when salarymen toasted their Bubble-derived prosperity with Nikka Black, and visitors to Japan were told no present would make their hosts happier than a bottle of Johnny Walker Black Label. Thankfully, whisky drinking in Japan has since undergone dramatic changes. While Joni Kuro can still hold its own among more refined whiskies, contemporary tastes are more eclectic and sophisticated— and, yes, more expensive. The catalyst for change was the collapse of the mass market for blended Japanese whisky and the gradual relaxation of punitive taxes on imported alcohol during the 1990s. While the search for new consumers has made Japan a leading producer of its own single malts, including several international award-winners, it is to whisky’s birthplace to which many Japanese connoisseurs turn first. Experts attribute the plethora of drinking options to whisky’s long association with glamor, the exotic and the unknown—from the time it was brought to Japan by Commodore Perry’s black ships to the whisky boom of the 1980s economic Bubble. Those deep roots have enabled whisky to tap into the modern penchant for luxury and perfection, according to Chris Bunting, an expatriate Yorkshireman who is writing a book about Japanese alcoholic drinks. “Japanese people are prepared to pay premium prices for premium alcohol in premium settings,” he says. “Specialist bars are part of a brutally competitive sector, and they really have to go out of their way to establish themselves as the best in the field, or sink in a sea of also-rans.” Entering a specialist bar for the first time can be an intimidating experience for even the most adventurous drinker. That sampling a modest number of decent malts can result in a hefty bar bill only adds to the sense of trepidation. As a general rule, opt for labels costing around ¥1,000 to ¥1,300 for a single shot of a whisky aged 10-12 years. “If you spend that much you’ll get a glass of good stuff,” says Bunting, who blogs about whisky at Nonjatta. “If you spend ¥5,000 you’ll get an exceptional, and probably very old, whisky. But by going for a younger drink, you’re not compromising in any way,” he says. “If it’s Japanese or Scottish, the production level will be very high. Just give it a try.” Bunting’s personal recommendations include Hakushu, a 12-yearold single malt by Suntory that he describes as “quite light, not terribly peaty or aggressive, more light and peppery”; or a 12-yearold Highland Park that offers a diametrically different adventure for the palate, with its smoky, heavy flavors. The great, unresolved debate among whisky drinkers is how much, or little, adulteration should be permitted before the liquid makes the
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“Japanese people are prepared to pay premium prices for premium alcohol in premium settings. Specialist bars are part of a brutally competitive sector, and they really have to go out of their way to establish themselves as the best in the field—or sink in a sea of also-rans.” journey from glass to mouth. Yet, on this point there is a surprising degree of flexibility among Japan’s whisky-drinking fraternity. If the strength is overwhelming—remember that some single malts contain 60% alcohol—then a splash of water is perfectly acceptable; but lighter varieties of about 40% should be drunk as they are. That said, there are a couple of faux pas that even the novice should avoid. Mizuwari, the Japanese staple comprising two parts water to one part whisky, is best left to the patrons of Ginza snack bars, while ice, though sometimes refreshing, can kill the delicate flavor and aroma of a single malt. Of course, whisky needn’t always be consumed amid the conviviality of a well-stocked bar; by its very nature, it is also a drink that suits moments of solitude, whether as a medicinal dram before bed or as, perhaps, the most civilized form of postprandial relaxation. Fortunately, many of Tokyo’s liquor stores are as serious about their whisky as they are about sake and shochu (Japanese spirit, commonly distilled from barley, sweet potato or rice). The obvious choice, for its centrality, and its big and eclectic selection of single malts, is Hasegawa Liquors, a family-run store inside the Yaesu basement of Tokyo Station, where, for a modest sum, shoppers can taste samples; or Tanakaya in Mejiro (JR Yamanote Line), home to what Bunting describes as a “formidable” range of single malts. When Tokyo’s whisky cognoscenti discuss their favorite watering holes, talk inevitably turns to Mash Tun. The cozy, dimly lit bar, tucked away along a quiet street a few minutes’ walk from Meguro Station (JR Yamanote, Tokyo Metro Namboku or Toei Mita Lines), boasts
WHISKY BARS Mash Tun www.themashtun.com/ Caol Ila http://caolila.jp/ The Helmsdale www.helmsdale-fc.com/index.html Zoetrope http://homepage2.nifty.com/zoetrope/ WHERE TO BUY Hasegawa Liquors www.liquors-hasegawa.com/ Tanakaya 3-4-14 Mejiro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo Tel: (03) 3953-8888 WHISKY BLOG AND INFORMATION Nonjatta http://nonjatta.blogspot.com/ Whisk-e www.whisk-e.co.jp/
more than 400 Japanese and Scottish whiskies, 300 of them single malts. Its affable owner, Toru Suzuki, concedes that interest in hard liquor has waned in recent years, though Suntory and other distilleries are falling over themselves to make converts out of the younger drinkers. Suzuki, who regularly visits Scotland to add to his stock, goes out of his way to put beginners at ease. “I usually ask them what they usually drink—beer or wine or whatever—then make a few suggestions depending on their answer,” he says. “Single malts are best drunk straight, but I have no objections to people adding a little water,” Suzuki adds, as he places a tiny jug of water on the bar next to samples of two of his recommendations for the newcomer: a 10-year-old Laphroaig and a 14-year-old Clynelish. Though his business depends on a loyal, mainly male, following, Suzuki says women often make the canniest drinkers. “Sometimes the men come in and pretend they know everything, but the women take their time and know the right questions to ask,” Suzuki says. “They also tend to be more adventurous.” A few stops down the Yamanote Line, Caol Ila, named after the ancient distillery on the isle of Islay, is a less genteel affair that stays open until the wee hours and resounds to the chatter of Shibuya’s bar and restaurant staff enjoying an after-work tipple. “Compared with 10 years ago, the Japanese drink a good deal more single malt,” says manager Masahide Kobayashi. “They used to like blended whisky, but single malt is the real thing. I think it taps into the Japanese liking for pure and simple tastes.” Kobayashi’s collection is dominated by a 12-year-old Caol Ila that is so popular among regulars that they get through 800 bottles of the stuff a year. “It’s known around the world and has really deep roots,” he says. “I usually serve this first to a new customer and then ask if they want something dryer or a little more hard-hitting.” Kobayashi’s selection extends to several distilleries and drinks other than whisky; but if it’s a casual quaff of a generic blend mixed with soda you’re looking for, it might be best to go elsewhere. “The days when salarymen drank cheap mizuwari in pubs are over,” Kobayashi says. “Blends and bourbons have their charms, but the future is single malt.”
Justin McCurry is The Guardian’s Tokyo correspondent.
“ The days when salarymen drank cheap mizuwari in pubs are over.”
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technology
the no-frills netbook Smaller than a PC, larger than a smart phone, mini-notebooks are the season’s surprise bestsellers. By John Boyd
lets you hook to a router. For full mobile wireless communications, you need to plug in a wireless data card. Some models also accept a PC card, while SD memory-card slots are common as well. The push is on for manufacturers to differentiate their designs among the many models on the market. Some netbooks now sport 10-inch or even 12-inch displays, pushing the devices into notebook territory—at least in size, if not power. Standing out from the crowd on account of its slim business envelope size and modest weight (634g), Sony Corp.’s recently launched, stylish Vaio P model boasts more memory and a higher resolution display than the competition, and comes with built-in wireless WAN, WiFi, Bluetooth and 1-Seg TV. But all this commands a list price of ¥99,000, about double that of many competing models. Netbooks have their critics. One complaint is a stingy battery life. Typically, the low-end models run between 2-3 hours before needing a recharge, depending on the tasks, while the more expensive models can double those numbers, but are a little heavier. Prolonged use of the paired-down keyboard surely will tire anyone whose hands are bigger than a child’s, while some users grumble about netbooks running uncomfortably hot. Not surprising, power users turn up their noses at such underpowered toys. Nevertheless, for no-frills, convenient computing at a low price, netbooks are proving their worth. John Boyd is a freelance technology writer based in Kawasaki.
Photos Courtesy Sony Corp.
They are small, light and inexpensive, so no wonder they are the fastestselling gizmos of the moment: netbooks—or mini-notebook PCs, as they also are called in Japan. Most major computer manufacturers have several models on the market—Apple Inc. being one notable exception. If you are looking to check your e-mail, surf the Internet—or deal with short documents on something larger than a smart phone, but smaller than a notebook PC—you will be spoilt for choice. Taiwan’s ASUSTek Computer Inc. got the silicon ball rolling some 18 months ago when it launched an eye-catching little portable that sported a 7-inch display and a scrunched-up keyboard—at a diminutive price. Since then, this Lilliputian idea has caught on big with manufacturers—to the extent that netbooks now have assumed a category all their own, and have become more practical in the process. Typical models in Japan have a 9-inch display, 1 gigabyte of memory, a hard drive of either 60 or 120 gigabytes and a price-tag starting from around ¥40,000. A few, such as Toshiba Corp.’s new NB100 series, provide an optional solid-state drive (SSD) composed of flash memory, which make for a lighter, more rugged and energy-efficient product. Most ship with Microsoft Corp.’s Windows XP operating system (OS) installed and run on a low-power Intel Corp. Atom processor. A major attraction is their being lightweight: usually around 1kg. As the name suggests, these handy little tools provide good connectivity for their size. Netbooks are WiFi-enabled, so you can take advantage of hot spots around town—an Ethernet connection also
health
haute healthy
& cuisine Tokyo hosts the World Summit of Gastronomy 2009. Words and photographs by Tony McNicol
JoĂŤl Robuchon
T
okyo is rapidly becoming known as a world capital of fine cuisine—if not the world capital. Restaurants in the city have a galaxy of Michelin stars, far more than New York and London, and even Paris. So what better location for Asia’s first World Summit of Gastronomy? Held over three days in February, the event featured speeches and cooking demonstrations by 21 titans of the kitchen—including Joël Robuchon, Heston Blumenthal, Nobuhisa Matsuhisa, and Ferran Adriá. But the event wasn’t just about haute cuisine—it also offered healthy cuisine. Set up by Yukio Hattori, the principal of Hattori Nutrition College in Shibuya, its perky slogan was “Let’s Shokuiku! [food education].” (As well as being a leading exponent of shokuiku, Hattori is, perhaps, best known to English viewers as a commentator on the popular Japanese TV show, Iron Chef.) “Much of a person’s life is determined by the time they are eight years old,” Hattori told Kaleidoscope backstage, “That’s why parents need to teach their children how to eat when they are young.” But what has shokuiku got to do with avant-garde and, sometimes, calorific haute cuisine? “I want to change the chefs attending this event as well,” laughed Hattori. “Some of them say that healthy food doesn’t taste good. But that’s not true.”
Despite its reputation for healthy eating, Japan isn’t immune from the rising obesity rates afflicting developed countries. Japanese people eat relatively large amounts of fish and rice, but also rival the West in their appetite for fatty, high-carbohydrate food. In 2005 the Japanese government attempted to deal with the problem by passing the “Basic Law on Shokuiku.” The legislation focused on food education in schools, positioning shokuiku as the foundation for “intellectual, moral and physical” development. Some unpalatable statistics make the need for shokuiku clear. For example, between 1976 and 2004, the number of Japanese families eating together every day dropped from 36.5% to 25.9%. A 2005 survey found that three in 10 males in their twenties, and a quarter of women in their twenties, skip breakfast. Other government statistics show that around 30% of Japanese men between the ages of 30 and 60 are overweight. Not surprisingly, so-called lifestyle-related diseases are on the rise. Half of Japanese male adults have, or are in serious danger of developing, the so-called “metabolic syndrome.” The Office for Food Education Promotion, from the Cabinet Office, had a booth at the summit. “The biggest effect of the law is that now people know what shokuiku is,” said Yoshinori Sato. “According to our survey, 75% of people in Japan are concerned about shokuiku.”
“If we don’t understand the principles of cooking, then we become slaves to recipes. The more accessible I can make what I do, maybe the more adventurous people might become.” Heston Blumenthal
But he stressed that knowledge itself isn’t enough, and actually changing eating habits may be harder. The recession poses a problem, furthermore; consumers may be less willing to pay for high-quality food, said Sato. After his cooking demonstration, the chef and owner of the Nobu restaurant chain explained a practical approach to shokuiku. “For me, shokuiku means that I have to educate my staff,” said Nobu. “I have chefs from all over the world. For example, Japanese chefs know how to prepare fresh fish, but British people still do not. Even Americans do not. “For me, that is part of shokuiku,” he said. Spanish chef Ferran Adriá explained that the key to improving the public’s diet was “education, education, education.” But, he added, in many countries in the world the problem was not that children were eating unhealthy food, but that they still don’t have enough food. During a panel discussion involving Nobu, Adriá, Robuchon and Blumenthal, host Hattori quipped that some Japanese hospital food might make you ill. Blumenthal described his work with the National Health Service in the UK to improve hospital fare. But he also worried about the effects of the global economic downturn.
“In a financial crisis as bad as this one, it is very important for people to be able to cook,” the UK chef said later at a press conference. “If you can get kids more excited about eating and tasting, then you are half way to getting them interested in cooking.” Blumenthal stressed the need to grasp the science of cooking. “If we don’t understand the principles of cooking, then we become slaves to recipes,” he said. “The more accessible I can make what I do, maybe the more adventurous people might become. “And that is always going to be a good thing,” Blumenthal continued. “We are put in a position where we can motivate and influence the public. That’s more important than what we do in our restaurants.” Owner of 18 Michelin stars, Robuchon was less sure about allowing health concerns to have such an influence on his menu. During the panel discussion, he said that his chefs are trying to use less fat and oil. But it’s not always clear what healthy food is, he claimed. Robuchon alluded to the famous “French Paradox”—namely that French people have relatively low rates of heart disease, despite consuming lots of fatty food. He told the audience that his grandmother had died 10 days before the summit. “She was 106 years old,” he said, “and she ate lots of butter.” Tony McNicol is a freelance writer and photographer based in Tokyo.
“Much of a person’s life is determined by the time they are eight years old. That’s why parents need to teach their children how to eat when they are young.” Yukio Hattori
Nobuhisa Matsuhisa
Ferran Adriá
LINKS Hattori Nutrition College
http://www.hattori.ac.jp/
Tokyo Taste The World Summit of Gastronomy 2009 http://www.tokyotaste.net/en/index.html Joël Robuchon restaurants in Japan
http://www.robuchon.jp/
Luxury motors
cadillac is back!
After trying to crack the executive car market outside of America for years, the CTS may have finally succeeded.
By Ivan Murzikov
Courtesy General Motors Corporation
Looking for an upmarket, high-performance luxury saloon? Then most likely you are going to turn to the German Big Three of Mercedes-Benz (E-Class), BMW (5 Series) and Audi (A6). These are the major players in a diminishing market. But of late, the Germans have not had it all their own way. Savvy consumers have discovered that they can have the same quality, more standard luxury features and similar performance wrapped in even more stylish body styling. I’m talking, of course, of the likes of Lexus’ highly-acclaimed GS, and Jaguar’s smash-hit XF. But now there’s another contender, and it’s from America of all places. Why should a serious rival from the U.S. cause such waves? Well, American luxury cars never have gone down well outside of their motherland, mostly because they were lumbering tanks with too much chrome, too much wallow, too much fake wood and zero dynamic ability. Oh, and they were mostly ugly, too. The new Cadillac CTS is the result of a different approach. Honed on the fabled German Nürburgring racing circuit and benchmarked against the best handling cars in its segment, it promises to be a seriously fun driving machine. My drive, through the busy streets of London—and then on some of the twistier and more testing country roads nearby—proved that the promise has been fulfilled. The CTS is a “manly” car, with a heaviness to the major controls that most enthusiastic drivers appreciate. The steering is direct, the ride firm and the brakes eye-poppingly powerful. It comes with the usual stability control systems, of course. But you can switch off the electronic nanny and have proper rear-wheel drive fun with this car—in the same way you could with a BMW 5 Series, always considered the benchmark in this segment. It’s got a good engine, too. The 3.6-liter V6 punches out 229 kW and 370 N.m of torque, enough to propel the CTS to a top speed of near 250 km/h after blitzing the benchmark 100 km/h sprint in only 6.3 seconds. The engine is mated with a six-speed automatic transmission that offers steering-wheelmounted shift paddles for a real race car-like feel.
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Inside, it is a really nice place to be. Depending on which boxes you tick on the options list, it is also very extensively equipped. Among the available features are heated and ventilated front seats, a smart full-color pop-up screen for the navigation system, and high-power multimedia system with a built-in hard drive for storage and dual-zone climate control. There are also a number of trim options. The car I drove had very smart cream leather, traditional wood and black leather fittings—combining with the aluminium center hangdown section of the facia to create a nice mixture of traditional luxury car elegance and modern high-tech. But what about exterior styling, a high-interest matter for the folks who buy in this segment? Let me put it this way. The CTS will definitely get you noticed. It is a strikingly bold design with sharp creases and lots of brightwork. Of course, there are some tacky elements, such as the LED rear lamps, for example; but overall, this is a car that will get the neighbors’ curtains to twitch with envy in a way no E-Class, 5 Series or A6 can do. Certainly, in style-obsessed London, it caused a stir. SPECIFICATIONS Engine:
3.6-liter V6
Transmission:
6-speed automatic
Max Power:
229 kW
Max Torque:
370 N.m
0-100 km/h
6.3 sec
Top speed:
241 km/h
Length/Width/Height:
4.87x1.84x1.47m
Price (incl. tax)
Model 28 ¥4,950,000 Model 36 ¥6,200,000
Ivan Murzikov is an international freelance motoring correspondent.
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