FUTURA MAY/JUNE 2015
IT’S SHOWTIME! PREVIEWS OF THE KEY TRADE SHOWS
KEEPING IT CASUAL
RETAILERS’ VIEWS ON DENIMS AND CASUALWEAR
BUSINESS MATTERS
INTERVIEW WITH SYLVANNA’S SYLVIA SMITH
THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W | 7 – 9 J U LY 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com
NEWS
EDITOR’S LETTER
CONTENTS
W
P.2 NEWS
elcome to the June issue of Futura. As we go to print, news from the industry runs the gamut from the joyful to the disheartening. The closure of some of the Fran & Jane stores across Ireland certainly falls into the latter category. It is, however, countered by news of several new shop openings across the country. Positivity within the retail industry can be witnessed by, for instance, the forthcoming opening of several Skechers stores and, at the upper end of the market, an €8 million refurbishment of the Dublin and Limerick branches of Brown Thomas department store. It’s important to keep things in perspective, though. While the ‘good’ appears to outweigh the ‘bad’ within the domestic fashion sector, the latest retail sales data from the Central Statistics Office (for the period 25 January to 28 February, 2015) show that talk of a broad-based recovery in retail is still premature. Movement is in the right direction, though, so let’s remain positive and hope this upward trend continues. Following requests from several readers to continue with our popular Vox Pop features, we’ve spoken with six retailers across the country to get their views on the denim and casualwear market. Their respective comments, which can be found on page 10, provide a useful insight into the performance of this sector and make for interesting reading. With the trade calendar gearing up for a busy summer, we’ve done the hard work for you and compiled the need-to-know on the main events in the show calendar. If you contemplating a trip overseas to visit one (or more) of these, a read of our extended Showtalk section on page 12 is a must. We’re back again next month when we’ll be looking ahead to the best of fashion for the SS16 season.
The need-to-know from the fashion scene at home and abroad
P.10 VOX POP:
Best-Sellers In Denim & Casualwear
Retailers across the country have their say on how casualwear is performing
P.12 SHOWTALK
Previews of the key events in the trade show calendar this summer
P.16 SHOPCALL
We run the rule over a new boutique in Dublin's Powerhouse Town Centre
P.18 CUTTING A FINE FIGURE
Sylvia Smith in south County Dublin talks about her new ladieswear boutique
Best wishes, Alexander Alexander Fitzgerald Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie
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Cover Image: Camel Active
May/June 2015 | Futura Magazine 1
NEWS
NEWS IRISH FASHION DUO LAUNCH FROCKADVISOR APP Ireland’s leading fashion crusaders, Brendan Courtney and Sonya Lennon, have launched Frockadvisor, an app connecting fashion lovers with their favourite independent boutiques. The app allows users post a photo of garments that they wish to purchase and their favourite boutiques can respond in a ‘fotocon’ (photographic conversation), sending a photo of similar things that they have in stock. For the first time, this gives fashion’s independent stores a chance to compete with the big boys of ecommerce, as well as affording fashion lovers a chance to find something different.
Speaking about the new venture, Brendan Courtney said: “Frockadvisor puts excellent customer service in to your hand. We are a Frockadvisor customer… and we loveit!” Minister for Jobs Richard Bruton TD, whose Department has provided support for Frockadvisor through Enterprise Ireland, added: “Frockadvisor is a dynamic, innovative, fun Irish business, using the latest trends in technology and customer behaviour to support rapid growth. “This is a great example of the type of business we are trying to support through our plan. I have met Sonya and Brendan on a number of occasions
as they have grown their business in recent years, and have always been massively impressed with what they are doing. I wish them every success with this initiative.” The app is currently available on the Apple and Android market and is free to download.
BRAY PRESENTER LAURA WHITMORE TO LAUNCH OWN FURTHER INVESTMENT LABEL PLANNED FOR BROWN THOMAS Not content with its extensive refurbishment to date, Brown Thomas has signalled plans to invest a further €8m on its stores. The high-end department store, which has a presence in Dublin, Cork, Limerick and Galway, has allocated €7m to upgrade one of the two womenswear floors in its 110,000 sq ft Grafton Street flagship. The Limerick store, meanwhile, will benefit from a €1m investment in its beauty department. Work on the two Brown Thomas stores is scheduled to commence in the second half of 2015. 2 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
Former MTV presenter Laura Whitmore has announced that she plans to be the latest celebrity to launch her own fashion range. With over half a million Instagram followers, the 29-yearold, who hails from Bray, Co. Wicklow, has insisted that she will oversee every aspect of the range, which is expected to be revealed sometime within the next year. Whitmore, who got her big break presenting the news for the popular music network, has since found herself fronting the Brit Awards pre- and post-shows on ITV2, as well as several other high-profile presenting engagements including I’m A Celebrity Get Me Out of Here - Now!
Her upcoming clothing range isn’t Whitmore’s first foray into fashion: the former DCU journalism graduate recently walked the runway during London Fashion Week for designer Bora Aksu.
NEWS
W W W.G D S - O N L I N E .C O M May/June 2015 | Futura Magazine 3
NEWS
FRAN & JANE TO STOP MAKING CLOTHES BUT THREE STORES TO REMAIN OPEN Fran & Jane Wholesale Ltd, the manufacturing arm of the well-known ladieswear retail chain, has gone into liquidation. The brand’s SS15 collection, which was designed last autumn, never went into full production. A series of store closures for the company shortly followed. A unit at Dundrum Town Centre closed in early March, following on from the January closure of the Fran & Jane branch at Laurence Town Centre in Drogheda, along with concessions in Brown Thomas, Blanchardstown and Limerick. A total of 24 full-time and part-time jobs have been lost.
JOCKEY LAUNCHES LIMITED-EDITION COLLECTION As part of its 80th anniversary celebrations, underwear specialist Jockey is launching a limitededition Y-Front collection. The new range, which will be on sale from September, will be available in a choice of six colourways. As a limited-edition collection, just 1,000 pairs in each colour will be available to purchase online and in-store. Inspired by classic shapes, the collection includes Y-front short trunks in red, grey and blue, as well as perennially popular prints such as checks and stripes. Speaking about the forthcoming collection, Ruth Stevens, senior brand and marketing manager, said: “It’s a fantastic way to celebrate the rich history of the brand and the impact it has had on underwear design.” 4 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
A separate company, Fran & Jane Ltd, continues to trade with three stores, located at Main Street, Blackrock, Co. Dublin, Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork and Market Street in Clonmel, Co. Tipperary. The Fran & Jane trademark is owned by Ms Fran Nolan who, in 1974, started the Regine fashion label out of which the Fran & Jane label was born,
QUIZ KEEN TO ENTER IRISH MARKET Scottish fashion chain Quiz is said to be on the look-out for retail space in the Irish market. The privately held Glasgow company, which sells ladies’ fashion, footwear and accessories, was founded in 1995 but went into administration six years ago when it was bought by Kast Retail. It currently has a strong presence in Northern Ireland but only a solitary concession store, in Tralee, in the Republic of Ireland. Property advisor CBRE, who listed the store as one of many retailers seeking letting opportunities, also noted that there has been a rise in demand for space in border towns as a result of the strong pound.
with their first shop opening in Cork 13 years ago. At the height of their retail success, Fran & Jane had a chain of 12 shops, including one on London’s famous King’s Road in Chelsea, a concession in Arnotts and a stand-along unit in Dundrum Town Centre. Ms Nolan mentioned how the company did “absolutely everything in our power to keep going. We were just waiting for it to turn but it never came.”
CODY RECEIVES TOP FASHION HONOUR The Kingdom of Kerry recently crowned its queen during their hugely successful fashion week. The prestigious Irish Fashion Designer of the Year award went to Helen Cody, the Dublin-based designer who became the talk of the town earlier this year when she kitted out footballer Stephanie Roche for the FIFA Ballon d’Or awards. Hosted by the five-star Europe Hotel & Resort in Killarney, the event was a celebration of Irish fashion where Cody was presented with her award by Melanie Morris, editor in chief at Image Publications. The designer also wowed the crowd with 16 new outfits in lace, tulle and feathers in a palette of muted pastels. There were also SS15 collections on show from local milliner Carol Kennelly, couturier Umit Kutluk, and designer Helen Steele, who won the KFW Fashion Designer award in 2014.
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NEWS
JANA OPENS ITS FIRST SHOP-IN-SHOP CONCEPT STORE In February, Jana, one of the leading providers of fashionable comfort shoes, opened its first shop-inshop concept in Erlangen, Germany. The modern and functional design of the premises accentuates the excellent value-for-money aspect of the brand and fits perfectly within the retail shop in Erlangen, providing an attractive eyecatcher for passers-by. According to Ulrike Peppel, business manager of Schuhhaus Peppel, the first weeks of sales were very busy. “The new shop-in-shop concept has been well
DUBLIN FASHION FESTIVAL 2015 DATES ANNOUNCED The new dates for Dublin Fashion Festival 2015 have been announced. The hotly anticipated festival, celebrating all things fashion and style in Dublin, returns from Monday, 7 September until Sunday, 13 September. The Festival has grown immensely over the past six years, significantly so in the past two. Originally a four-day festival, it has been extended to seven days to accommodate even more events and promotions and now ranks as a key date in the calendar of all fashionistas throughout the country. Presented by DublinTown, the Festival sees over 6 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
received by customers,” she added. To further expand their presence in stores, Jana has developed a high-quality furniture concept, which presents Jana in an attractive brand world.
200 retailers, restaurants, bars and hotels taking part in one of the city centre’s liveliest week-long events. From daily catwalk shows to fashion styling consultations and various in-store events, Dublin Fashion Festival has something for everyone. Highlights include the popular evening shows, the Young Designer of the Year Award at Bank of Ireland on College Green, and The Creative Quarter Fashion Show at Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, as well some other very exciting night-time shows for fashion followers of all kinds to enjoy. The Director of the Festival, Clyde Carroll commented: “Dublin Fashion has grown immensely over the past six years and the festival itself has blossomed with it. “The festival is a wonderful opportunity to celebrate Dublin city centre and everything that makes shopping and socialising here so special. We are looking forward to an exciting instalment this year.”
NEGOTIATIONS CONTINUE FOR CONTROL OF ARNOTTS The future of Arnotts, one of Dublin’s best-known department stores, has been in the air in recent months but looks to be resolved. Businessman Noel Smyth was revealed to have seen off competition to secure the Henry Street department store in a deal thought to be worth more than €100m. Smyth's Fitzwilliam Finance Partners had already owned 50% of Arnotts, with the other half owned by private equity firm Apollo Global Management. Both sides had been vying to buy the other out, but a statement recently released by Fitzwilliam confirmed that it had taken full control of the business. The statement mentioned how Fitzwilliam would "continue with our plans to develop Arnotts as an iconic retail destination and look for opportunities to develop the adjacent property portfolio surrounding the store as market conditions continue to improve". The deal brings a conclusion to a seemingly ongoing battle that has lasted several years. Smyth is backed by the UK-based billionaire Livingstone brothers through their firm, London & Regional. The brothers are familiar with the Irish market, having sold earlier this year the Intercontinental Hotel in Ballsbridge for €50m after buying it for €15m. Fitzwilliam paid Ulster Bank about €50m for half of Arnotts' debt in 2013. The other half was taken over by Apollo from Anglo Irish Bank. The two sides are both thought to have been keen on taking full control of the business - but now it appears Apollo has agreed to sell their portion of the business. A spokesman for Apollo said they believed "this is a positive outcome for all stakeholders in Arnotts, which should allow for a reduction in the company's existing debt burden and further investment and growth". Although terms of the deal were not disclosed, industry watchers believe Apollo would have been unlikely to sell its stake for less than €100m – a figure that would see the US firm make a profit on their investment of around €55m in less than three years.
NEWS
EXCITING DEVELOPMENTS FOR SKECHERS IN IRELAND Skechers Retail is putting its best foot forward and implementing a roll-out of stores around Ireland. Having recently opened the ninth Irish Skechers store in Cork city, businessmen Sunil Shah and Paul Gallagher will shortly be opening a tenth store in Whitewater Shopping Centre. A further two stores, including one on Belfast’s popular Donegall Place, will be opened in Northern Ireland before the end of 2015. Skechers has been trading successfully in Ireland since launching on Dublin’s Henry Street in October, 2010.
CSO NUMBERS REVEAL RETAIL REMAINS FLAT Retail Excellence Ireland has said that the latest retail sales data from the Central Statistics Office for the period 25 January to 28 February of this year show that talk of a broad-based recovery in retail is still premature. REI Deputy Chief Executive Seán Murphy said that this data showed only a marginal increase in retail sales, which reflected a flat trajectory in consumer spending since January. “Annualised growth of retail sales volume, excluding motor trades, was 4.8 per cent, while the annualised value increased by only 0.7 per cent excluding motor trades,” Murphy said. “This continues to reflect discounting by retailers to attract spend. It also shows why retailers are extremely nervous about any talk of Government mandated wage increases in the absence of a broad-based recovery in the domestic economy.” Murphy also added: “As long as the data remains flat, we cannot afford to be complacent. The domestic economy is growing but only after an unprecedented collapse. Retail is still dealing with one of the highest VAT rates in the world at 23 per cent. This again is inhibiting spend as consumers juggle to balance household budgets. “This is why we must retain the nine per cent VAT rate on hospitality. This also supports retail. We must also focus on putting more money into consumers’ pockets,” he concluded.
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DEREK EAKIN LTD Tel +353 (0) 49 555 2285 email: schoolwear@derekeakin.com web: www.derekeakin..com May/June 2015 | Futura Magazine 7 Hunter 1/2V.indd 1
27/05/2015 15:49
NEWS
FASHION TOO SLOW TO DUNDRUM TOWN EMBRACE TECHNOLOGY CENTRE’S EXPANSION PLANS HALTED Eddie Mullon, founder and CEO of Fashion GPS, has recently discussed the industry’s inability to keep up with the speed at which technology is advancing in recent years. Writing for The Business of Fashion, Mullon claims that, “there has been surprisingly little innovation in the solutions that power the operational backbone of the fashion industry.” Mullon concedes that updating these systems takes both time and money but it is a challenge that brands and retailers must embrace head-on, otherwise they won’t be able to compete in this ever-changing era. “A key consideration for a brand in 2015 is how to properly monitor the flow of products and information through critical business departments and processes,” Mullon notes. “Information is pushed, pulled and shared at each juncture and technology needs to efficiently display this data in order to help designers, press and buyers make better decisions, whether that’s at a runway show in Paris, a tradeshow in Berlin or a press day in London. “What’s more, the process of launching products encompasses more than just PR and marketing. It begins at the very point of a product’s inception and continues throughout the development, production, buying and merchandising processes, into PR and marketing and onto retail.” Mullon praise some of the world’s biggest brands and retailers, such as Burberry, Kate Spade, Levi’s and ASOS, who embrace new, tech-enabled methodologies that promise to deliver back-end efficiencies. PLP (Product Launch Planning) systems like what Fashion GPS offers increase visibility and real-time data harvesting in order to facilitate reactive process innovation, according to Mullon. “These systems are critical to providing real-time feedback, so that the industry can react and deliver almost instantly. This encourages smarter, informed decision-making, resulting in more relevant products and services,” he explains. Mullon points out that it’s impossible to predict what the fashion industry will look like in the future, but is certain that it will only become more complex. He believes that now is as good a time as ever to prioritise technology investments and, as an industry collective, businesses should be aiming to establish the kinds of standards and processes, which will enable everyone to collaborate more effectively in the future. 8 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
The owners of Dundrum Town Centre, the country’s largest shopping centre, have been told they cannot proceed with a planned one-millionsquare-foot expansion because of flood fears for neighbouring shops and houses. Despite obtaining planning permission just over five years ago, officials at Dún Laoghaire Rathdown county council recently turned down an application from developer Joe O’Reilly, whose Chartered Land built the shopping centre during the Celtic Tiger era. One of Europe’s most successful shopping centres and boasting high-profile tenants such
as Harvey Nichols, Next, Timberland and H&M amogst its 100-plus shops, Dundrum Town Centre now belongs to the State and is controlled by the National Asset Management Agency (Nama). The proposed second phase of the shopping centre would have involved building on the old Dundrum shopping centre, which was built in the 1970s. Permission was sought for the construction of a large store and 77 smaller shops, as well as amenities including nine restaurants, a 96-room hotel, 40 apartments, a medical centre and a 1,900-space car park. A new library was also planned. The council blamed “an increased flood risk to surrounding property” for the decision to refuse planning; the shopping centre itself was flooded in 2011, although this was not a factor in the centre being refused planning permission for the expansion. The decision is a setback for Nama, which is expected to put Dundrum Town Centre on the market later this year for more than €1bn.
QUALITY & COMMITMENT SINCE 1980 Based in Co. Cavan, Derek Eakin Ltd. is one of Ireland’s leading schoolwear specialists. The company, which was founded in 1980, boasts an extensive range of children’s schoolwear, encompassing everything from shorts, blazers, ties and trousers to skirts, blouses and polo shirts, and is the Irish distributor for the renowned Hunter Schoolwear. The principal player in the Irish market for uniforms and schoolwear, Derek Eakin Ltd. prides itself on its second-to-none customer service and its NOS (never-out-of-stock) collection, which ensures that garments are available throughout the year Business for Derek Eakin is on the up as parents have recently been displaying a return to purchasing higher quality generic garments, such as blue or white shirts, grey or navy trousers and plain pullover. Indeed, according a company spokesperson, for the first time in a number of years, shops are forward-booking stock of generic
garments, which, in turn, helps Derek Eakin gauge what stock is required. To facilitate storage and display, the company has a vast warehouse extending to over 30,000 sq. ft. in Cootehill, Co. Cavan, where customers can view the full range of schoolwear. Alternatively, a visit from one of the company’s sales representatives can be scheduled. Further details online at derekeakin.com
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VOXPOP
VOX POP: Jeans & Denim EOIN PORTER
LEONARD WATSON CLODAGH ROCHE
SALES ASSISTANT AT RYLE’S MENSWEAR, 49 ASHE STREET, TRALEE, CO. KERRY
OWNER OF WATSON’S MENSWEAR, 7 UPPER MAIN STREET, LETTERKENNY, CO. DONEGAL
What jeans brands do you stock? A wide range of international brands, including Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Sixth Sense and Bugatti. What sort of price points do these sell for? Prices for these jeans are typically range between €70 and €149. What is the best-selling brand? Why does this work so well for you, do you think? Tommy Hilfiger is probably our most popular brand as customers are attracted to both their branding as well as their price. Is price a major factor when customers are buying a brand? It would influence some customers but, overall, fit is probably the most important factor for them. Are customers increasingly brandaware, do you think? Yes, definitely. With the rise of social media, there’s very little people don’t know about, and fashion is no different. What brands are offering you an allyear-round stock service? Actually, for us, most of our stock arrives on a seasonal basis. Does this help you when deciding on what brands to stock? Obviously, we would prefer that we had the option of all-year-round stock but I suppose we’ve become used to the system and just accepted it as being so. Maybe things will change. Is there anything brands could do differently to help increase sales? For customers, brands should continuously strive to enhance brand awareness through the media and their online presence. For retailers, they should really try and offer more reasonable credit terms.
10 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
What jeans brands do you stock? We have numerous brands available here, such as Mish Mash, Superdry, Wrangler, Guide London and Voi. What sort of price points do these sell for? Our ranges of jeans would be priced between €69.95 and €89.95. What is the best-selling brand? Why does this work so well for you, do you think? Superdry is very popular with our customers. The reason for this is on account of the fact that the brand just gets it right in terms of cut, fit, price and trends. Is price a major factor when customers are buying a brand? Definitely. Price will always play a part when it comes to selecting jeans - and clothes in general. Are customers increasingly brandaware, do you think? Without a doubt, which is probably on account of sites like Facebook and Twitter and social media across the board. What brands are offering you an allyear-round stock service? Most of our brands offer this service – Superdry, Guide London, Mish Mash. Does this help you when deciding on what brands to stock? While it’s not the be all and end all, it most definitely helps. Is there anything brands could do differently to help increase sales? I suppose there are many things brands could do whether it’s advertising or better prices but, in general, I think they should aim to carry more stock.
OWNER OF MUSE BOUTIQUE, 92 THE QUAY, WATERFORD, CO. WATERFORD What jeans brands do you stock? We have an exclusive on Donna Ida Jeans, a brilliant high-waisted brand that’s proven extremely popular. Some of our other successful labels include J-Brand and Marc by Marc Jacobs. What sort of price points do these sell for? These labels would carry mid- to highend prices, starting at €175 up to €255. What is the best-selling brand? Why does this work so well for you, do you think? Both Donna Ida and J-Brand do extremely well for us with J-Brand boasting a strong following on account of their fit and durability. Is price a major factor when customers are buying a brand? It does come into it, but purchasing jeans is an extremely personal experience – you can never talk someone into buying a pair. They either love them or they don’t. Are customers increasingly brandaware, do you think? Yes, particularly when it comes to highend brands. I suppose social media plays a large part in that. They are also more price-conscious as well and use the internet to find the best bargains. What brands are offering you an allyear-round stock service? Most of our brands offer all-year-round stock services and not just four drops a year. This is really important for us as Ireland has such unpredictable weather and stock has to reflect this. Does this help you when deciding on what brands to stock? It’s really important for me to have a good relationship with my suppliers and I’ve definitely chosen brands in the past based on this. Some brands can be demanding and often it’s just not worth it.
VOXPOP
EDWARD DONNELAN PAM TREACY
DYMPNA MANNION
OWNER OF EDWARD DONNELAN & CO., MAIN STREET, ROSCOMMON, CO. ROSCOMMON
OWNER OF HIGH STREET, UNIT 16 / 18, VIRGINIA SHOPPING CENTRE VIRGINIA, CO. CAVAN
OWNER OF THE STYLE EMPORIUM, GROSVENER HSE, GRATTAN ST, SLIGO CO. SLIGO
What jeans brands do you stock? We offer a wide variety of French brands as well as other well-known labels such as Mos Mosh.
What jeans brands do you stock? Over the years, finding jeans that fit women’s shapes and sizes has been very difficult but, recently, I have found that Zerres has really appealed to my customers, so I’ve put all my energies into them.
What jeans brands do you stock? We have a wide-range of brands available including Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, Diesel and Superdry. What sort of price points do these sell for? They would start at €69.95 and go up to €120. What is the best-selling brand? Why does this work so well for you, do you think? Levi’s would be our best-selling brand and have proven popular with customers for a long time. They are a well-known, reliable brand who continue to grow and expand. Is price a major factor when customers are buying a brand? Customers always want value for money but they might spend extra on brands they know and trust. Are customers increasingly brandaware, do you think? Yes, most definitely. A lot of their knowledge comes from the internet. Jeans is an area that appeals to a lot of younger people who are quite savvy when it comes to social media where so many brands are present, so it makes sense that these customers are as brand-aware as they currently are. What brands are offering you an allyear-round stock service? The majority of our brands offer allyear-round stock service. Does this help you when deciding on what brands to stock? It’s definitely a major factor. Consistency is very important to us. Is there anything brands could do differently to help increase sales? Aside from offering more discounts, brands should continue to develop brand awareness amongst customers, whether that’s promoting through the media or social media. They should also work directly with staff in-store.
What sort of price points do these sell for? They range between €49.99 and €120. What is the best-selling brand? Why does this work so well for you, do you think? Mos Mosh. I think their appeal lies in the fact that customers trust them as a brand and get a lot of wear out of them. Is price a major factor when customers are buying a brand? I find that price becomes a factor if customers have to get them altered – for example, if they’ve to get them turned up, they probably won’t spend more than €50 or €60. But, if they’re the right fit, then customers are prepared to spend more. Are customers increasingly brand-aware, do you think? Definitely. They’re also becoming extremely price aware. They will know all about the latest collections and trends and how much they should be expected to pay. What brands are offering you an allyear-round stock service? Most of brands would offer an all-yearround stock service. Does this help you when deciding on what brands to stock? Most definitely. Mos Mosh is fantastic when it comes to ordering, which really strengthens my relationship with that brand. Is there anything brands could do differently to help increase sales? I think it’s essential that brands are constantly looking for opportunities to promote their brands, whether it’s on shows like Xposé and Ireland AM, on social media or in print. I’ve found that there is a recognisable spin-off from this type of advertising, particularly spots on television.
What sort of price points do these sell for? They usually sell for €90.95. What is the best-selling brand? Why does this work so well for you, do you think? Zerres has proven really popular for us because their designs are realistic with shapes and sizes fitting the ‘average’ woman. Is price a major factor when customers are buying a brand? Customers will spend a lot of time looking for the perfect pair of jeans and when they finally find them, they are willing to pay for them – price is secondary, while shape and fit are the primary factors. Are customers increasingly brandaware, do you think? I’ve found that our customers have little interest in brands and labels – that sort of nonsense went out the window when the recession kicked in. They’re looking for value for money and clothes that will last the long haul. What brands are offering you an allyear-round stock service? For the most part, we get our stock on a seasonal basis. Does this help you when deciding on what brands to stock? There are many factors that retailers like me consider when deciding on what brands to stock. It’s really important to have a positive relationship, otherwise, it’s not worth the hassle. Is there anything brands could do differently to help increase sales? I think lots of brands need to engage with the real world more. They need to start designing collections for real, everyday women that are priced reasonably.
May/June 2015 | Futura Magazine 11
SHOWTALK
SHOWTALK: EW PREVI
BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN TO RETURN IN JULY EW PREVI
AMBITIOUS PLANS FOR PANORAMA BERLIN’S JULY EDITION 8-10 July For the forthcoming summer edition, which will be held over three days from 8-10 July in Berlin’s ExpoCenter, Panorama Berlin has re-arranged its brand portfolio to focus on the most relevant international brands and trends for the SS16 season. Due to the continued high demand, Panorama Berlin will, once again, be extending its exhibition space by another hall with some 6,000 square metres of space. An extensive exhibitor list will see approximately 400 women’s and men’s 12 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
collections, as well as shoes and accessories displayed over 40,000 square metres. A host of brands, including Base London, Delicate Love, Jeffrey Campell, Pantofola D’Oro, Shoe Biz, Vera Mont and Zabaione, have already confirmed for the July edition. A new addition to Panorma Berlin will be NOVA, which will provide a large showcase in hall 1.2 for a fusion of an eclectic range of currents and discipline. This area, according to Joerg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin, will facilitate “opening up new possibilities to provide certain products and exhibitors with a customised presentation opportunity within the Panorama Berlin context.” The show’s popular series of lectures, which are free of charge and cover a range of different topics, will be continued. The full lectures programme, as well ad further details of the July show, can be found online at panorama-berlin.com
Following a spell of uncertainty, Berlin’s Bread & Butter has emerged triumphant and will take place between 7–9 July at the former airport Berlin-Tempelhof. The new concept is based on the question the organisers have asked themselves: How can we realise an inspiring leading trade show for fashion and urbanwear, just like Bread & Butter used to be for a long time in Barcelona and Berlin? According to those behind the upcoming event, everyone speaks of a modern urban lifestyle, but what is it that’s interesting for people in the world’s metropolises such as Tokyo, New York, London or Berlin? Bread and Butter will then strive to reach those who do not live in such an environment, but who still want to follow that lifestyle. And so, Bread & Butter’s itinerary will be filled with presentations of urban and contemporary brands, mixed with real novelties that inspire and motivate the buyers. What’s more, there will be free spaces at Tempelhof for young, national and international companies; the aim is to open up business opportunities for such companies, offer networking possibilities for retail and industry, and win investors and sponsors.
SHOWTALK
EW PREVI
9-11 August 2015 NEC Birmingham Apply to exhibit at moda-uk.co.uk Woman Lingerie & Swimwear
PURE LONDON POSTPONES ADDITION OF DEDICATED MENSWEAR SEGMENT
Accessories Footwear Gent
The summer edition of the biannual trade show, Pure London, will take place from 2-4 August, 2015, at London’s Olympia. The forthcoming event had originally been scheduled to launch Pure Menswear, a dedicated space focusing on menswear. However, the launch has been moved from the August edition of the show to the February 2016 show, with the organisers mentioning how Pure London “is focusing its energies on a larger launch for Autumn/Winter 2016 featuring 60 brands.” Organisers at i2i Events Group are, nonetheless, “fully committed” to introducing menswear, which is described as an important growth area for the show. The company also said they have had requests for a show from the core menswear industry, who mentioned how, “they want a Central London trade event alongside womenswear and lifestyle brands.” Pure is now taking enquiries from menswear brands and showrooms for the February 2016 show. In the meantime, the forthcoming August edition is expected to bring together nearly 800 brands in its current configuration. Further details online at purelondon.com
20th ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS FOR PORTUGAL FASHION REVIEW The 36th edition of Portugal Fashion, which took place between 25-28 March, marked its 20th anniversary. Since its creation in 1995, Portugal Fashion has enabled local designers and brands to consolidate their position in the fashion world, assisting them to develop new technical skills, while enabling them to create new professional opportunities at home and abroad. The theme of this landmark edition was ‘Reflector’, which aimed to literally reflect on the past two decades, while also celebrating creativity, shapes, textures and colours. Divided into eight different catwalks, six different buildings and lasting for four days, the edition also introduced a variety of trends for winter 2016.
Heart of Fashion May/June 2015 | Futura Magazine 13
SHOWTALK
FORTHCOMING MOMAD METRÓPOLIS TO FEATURE NEW LAYOUT The 15th Momad Metrópolis will take place from 11-13 September at Feria de Madrid and one of the most significant changes this year is that footwear collections will be concentrated in one hall - Hall 4. Within this area, the collections will be divided into several sections: The Metro, which will showcase high-end, trend-setting collections; The Cosmo Casual will feature informal, urban and comfortable footwear; Fast & Young will present an urban street concept, while Cosmo Kids will present
DATES CONFIRMED FOR 2016 EDITIONS OF GDS
children’s footwear. Leather goods and accessories will also be located in Hall 4. Another of the changes to the layout of the trade show is that Momad showrooms will move from Hall 2 to their own space in Hall 12. This will allow national and international high-end brands to form part of the event, while maintaining their exclusivity with a separate access and distinct décor. Intergift, Bisutex and MadridJoya will run alongside Momad Metrópolis and for these few days, Feria de Madrid will become the biggest showcase for fashion and trends in Southern Europe. The February edition of Momad Metrópolis brought together 1,200 brands across textile, footwear, kids’ fashion and accessories, representing an increase of 14 per cent in the number of exhibitors from 2014.
will also be a return of the 20 international Design Trendsetters, who will be exhibiting their respective 2016 summer collections. The forthcoming show will see the popular POP UP area and catwalk relocated to Hall 10, thereby moving closer to the trade show action. The scene area RICHTIG WICHTIG will also The summer edition of GDS, the Global move to Hall 10 to celebrate its second edition. Destination for Shoes & Accessories, and tag After paying tribute to Paris at the last edition it! – The Private Label Show will take place of GDS, this area will be ‘very British’ for the from 29 to 31 July in Düsseldorf. As the organisers put their finishing touches July show; London calling is the motto for the new season. to the show, visitors have much to look forward  Further developments that will be to over the three days. Highlights promise to be evident at the forthcoming show include the many and will incude the STUDIO area, which expansion of the Concept Area in Hall 5’s will showcase new high-end collections such as HIGHSTREET space. Italy’s bag label Aurora Iceberg from Italy, Mer du Sud from Spain and Prestige and men’s shoe manufacturer I Maschi Intramontabile from Germany. Gold are just two of the many newcomers Elsewhere, APICCAPS will once again that will make their GDS debut. A number of present a selection of young, promising Polish designers will also be exhibiting their designers from Portugal as part of its collections here, having been selected in ‘Portuguese Young Talents’ scheme. Following cooperation with the fashion trade fair HUSH Morrison Estates REVISED.pdf 10:42 the successful debut in February 2015, there1 19/01/2015
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Warsaw, which particularly promotes young designers from Poland. As ever, GDS will pay particular attention to trends, specifically in Trend Spots in Hall 5, which will be grouped into a separate area providing important information on seasonal trends for S/S 2016. Here trends will be featured in an atmospheric setting that strikingly illustrates design objects and colours in distinct visualisations. Further details are available online at gdsonline.com and tag-it-show.com
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SHOWTALK
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LONDONEDGE RETURNS TO ISLINGTON FOR SEPTEMBER EDITION Having relocated to Kensington Olympia for the recent February edition, LondonEdge will be returning to its usual venue of Islington’s Business Design Centre for its September edition. The forthcoming edition of the popular show — which ranks as the only tradeshow that powerfully represents authentic subculture fashion — will take place from 6-8 September when it is expected to attract a global audience and will host over 150 exhibitors, including a diverse mix of established and up-and-coming brands. “It is an absolute pleasure to be returning to the Business Design Centre and to North London,” said Carole Hunter, managing director of LondonEdge, who hopes to build on a successful February edition, where attendance figures reflected an increase of 9% on the previous season. “It offers LondonEdge, its buyers and exhibitors a beautiful, sociable environment in which to do business.” With 94% of the floor space already allocated, this September edition is set to deliver an exciting dynamic to the fashion trade show scene making LondonEdge September a key date in the diary for those at the forefront of fashion buying. Further details online at londonedge.com/visitors
SAATCHI GALLERY TO HOST SCOOP INTERNATIONAL London’s iconic Saatchi Gallery will once again host the autumn edition of Scoop International. The premium womenswear and accessories tradeshow held will take place over three days from 4-6 August, 2015 when it will showcase collections from a host of industry leaders. Since its launch in February 2011 by fashion industry expert Karen Radley, Scoop has consolidated its reputation as an international design-led and London-based exhibition for niche designers; one where labels do not have to battle one another for attention and where the diverse brand offering guarantees visitors something they have not seen elsewhere. Today, Scoop has become a key destination for showcasing over 250 international contemporary collections, including De’Hart, Pyrus, Paul & Joe, Goat, Agnelle, Duffy, Transit, Samantha Sung and Vivienne Westwood. Scoop London, meanwhile, will take place from 20-22 September and will have an entirely different line-up of labels to London Fashion Week. Labels and brands confirmed for the September edition include Karina IK, Cristina Diez, Chillerton Shoes, Kate Spade, My Name is Lolo, Giulia Barela, Fera Jewellery, Sweety Jane, Mathilde Danglade, Heidi Higgins, Delan, WS Studio, BDBA, Forms Studio and Loxley England. Further details online at scoop-international.com
HUGE LINE-UP OF BRANDS CONFIRMED FOR 28TH EDITION OF MODA As the UK’s leading fashion trade event, Moda — which will take place from 9-11 August at Birmingham’s NEC — is acknowledged as the essential destination for buyers looking to explore new brands. Moda’s B2B fashion exhibition incorporates five shows in specialist sectors including womenswear, menswear, footwear, lingerie and swimwear and accessories, and will see over 1,450 brands in attendance, meaning that there’s something to suit every buying need. A strong international presence at Moda Gent fashion exhibition will ensure a dynamic and contemporary mix of labels, including Camel Active, Meyer-Hosen, Olymp, Eterna and Casa Moda. The line-up at Moda Footwear, meanwhile, will include brands such as Sebago, Lemon Jelly, Dr.Martens, Birkenstock, Peter Kaiser, Högl and Fly London will be amongst the line-up showing at Moda Footwear. Product areas here will enable buyers to navigate through the different shows to various platforms including Select, which will showcase a contemporary mix of men’s urban clothing and footwear, and Mini Moda, where children’s footwear will be on display. Elsewhere, the Loft, which showcases an edited selection of brands in a pop-up market place, will return for the August edition, following the resounding success of its inaugural launch in February 2015. This recent addition the show promises easy access to a host of consumer name brands specialising in short order and trans-seasonal stock. The forthcoming show will also see the return of the BE2B Hub, which will bring leading e-commerce technologies, retail services and in-store product providers together in one easy to access pop-up area at the show. The BE2B Hub will play host to the retail oriented seminar programme offering ever popular and informative seminars by industry leaders, enhancing the over-all visitor experience. May/June 2015 | Futura Magazine 15
SHOPCALL
Jennifer Rothwell Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin 2 Having recently opened a flagship store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, award-winning Irish fashion designer, Jennifer Rothwell has tapped into a strong demand for her designs. But how does the new boutique – which also sells a selection of pieces from a clutch of emerging and established Irish designers - measure up for our mystery shopper? THE DESIGNER Born in New York and raised in Dublin, NCAD graduate is a fashion designer making waves on both the domestic and international fashion scenes. Having cut her teeth worked in the fashion industry in New York for more than ten years with high-end couture brands such as Calvin Klein, Norma Kamali and Katayone Adeli, she set up her own label in 2006 to great critical and commercial success. Over the past nine years, Rothwell – who is a mentor with the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland and Dublin City Local Enterprise Office - has attracted a loyal following and has become known for her innovative design, colourful prints, and use of luxurious fabrics. Elegant yet timeless, her collections are produced locally at her studio in Dublin.
THE LOCATION JRothwell is located on the second floor of the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin 2, where it is open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm, with late opening until 8pm on Thursday. It might be out of immediate sight but its central location ensures that enjoys a regular flow of customer traffic. A Thursday lunchtime visit found the boutique a hive of activity as excited shoppers tried perused the stock and, in some cases, exited with beautifully wrapped and packaged purchases.
FIRST IMPRESSION A glass door and floor-to-ceiling glass windows leave the casual passer-by in little doubt as to 16 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
what JRothwell sells. A clean-lined, paredback contemporary – pale wooden floors and a neutral cream interior lit by spotlights – lets the product really stand out.
DISPLAY & PRESENTATION In a word: immaculate.Organisation of the stock is simple yet effective: garments are hung collectively according to style and colour, allowing the browser to see at a glance what she likes. Chrome hanging racks running along either side of the boutique are the display mode of choice, while six freestanding glass cabinets with shelves are used to hold elegant headwear and a small selection of jewellery. Elsewhere, a three-tier custom-made display unit with a built-in seating area in the middle of the boutique is used to display jewellery, scarves and bags; while three wooden shelves on the middle wall behind the island are used to showcase accessories.
THE STOCK Rothwell’s creations – which run the gamut from printed and jersey pieces to silk occasional wear and beautiful bridal and evening wear collections - account for the majority of stock at the boutique, However, a selection of carefully curated pieces from other labels adds variety to the mix. Indeed, in addition to Rothwell’s own designs, the flagship boasts pieces from some of Ireland’s other leading designers, including milliner Martha Lynn, accessory designer, Susannagh Grogan, scarf specialist Brendan Joseph and jewellers Eily O’Connell and Vivien Walsh. The impeccably edited selection is impressive and offers an excellent choice of garments and styles at varying price points. Indeed, by bringing together some of the finest of Irish design talent under one roof while providing a wonderfully personal service,
JRothwell offers a superb shopping experience.
CHANGING ROOMS While the boutique may be compact, it doesn’t scrimp on dressing room space. A rectangular fitting room area leads off the back of the shop floor and incorporates a fitting room on either side, as well as a central area with a full-length mirror.
STAFF Groomed and trained to perfection, staff in the store are an absolute credit to the designer. Customers’ enquiries were skilfully handled, advice was offered on particular styles of dresses and help was gently given. Most pleasing of all, however, was the lack of any overbearing pressure to make a purchase. Customers seemed to enjoy casually perusing the rails without having intimidating sales staff breathing down their neck. As a result, there was a wonderful energy the space, one where visitors could very easily be converted into customers.
VERDICT Proving that small is indeed beautiful and that the best things often come in bijoux packages, JRothwell is an exciting and welcome addition to the city’s retail landscape. Beautifully edited stock is complemented by immaculately mannered staff that are a credit to the store. The result? A memorable shopping experience – for all the right reasons.
For all wholesale enquiries, please contact Ollie Campbell Tel: 00353 1 429 5088 / 00353 86 876 8096 www.uk.eden-park.com Facebook/EdenParkUK
INTERVIEW
Cutting a fine figure In the space of just five short years, Sylvia Smith has taken her 33 years of retail experience and channelled them into opening Sylvanna, a successful fashion boutique in Dún Laoghaire. Fresh from bagging a prestigious Best Boutique nomination from The Irish Times newspaper, the affable proprietor took time to chat with Futura about her new venture Boutique owner, Sylvia Smith, started learning her trade when she was just a teenager. At the tender age of just 17, she got invaluable experience working in Roches Stores in Dublin’s city centre, working across all their departments. Even though Smith spent many years surrounded by the latest styles and fashions, the Dubliner admits that she never set out to open her own boutique. However, sometimes life presents opportunities that can’t be refused and when she began working in a cosy boutique above Dún Laoghaire’s much-loved store, Tierney’s, such an opportunity arose, so Smith put in a request to rent the space herself and in 2010, the premise became Sylvanna. A mere two years later, the business had the good fortune to be nominated for Best Boutique in The Irish Times, a select list and a huge honour. “The nomination was a great sense of accomplishment: to know people liked our shop enough to vote for us,” Smith acknowledges. “I have no idea how we did get nominated, but just to say that we were was a great boost.”
STANDING OUT FROM THE COMPETITION While modesty and humility might prevent the sartorially-savvy businesswoman from waxing lyrical about her own boutique, it seems readers of the aforementioned national 18 Futura Magazine | May/June 2015
newspaper have no such problem expressing their praise. Impressed by Sylvanna’s wide range of carefully-selected, affordable clothes that cater to women of all shapes and sizes, customers voted en masse, resulting in the boutique achieving this deserved recognition. And it seems that it’s this diversity and price-friendliness that sets Sylvanna’s apart from competitors. “Because we sell from size 8 to size 24 and cater for the younger and older generation, we find we have a wide variety of customers,” Smith explains. “Originally, I wanted to target the 35-year-old and upwards bracket as I felt that’s where the gap in the market was; however, depending on what’s in stock, we do get younger customers mostly due to the cheaper inspired dresses that seem to be the trend at the moment. “With the recession, the average spend has decreased to around €45. However, most of the year, we have sale rails from €10 upwards, which increases customer spending. Also, as we take deposits, we find the customer may pick up the dress or coat that was just outside their
budget and pay of in instalments.”
NO TWO DAYS ARE EVER THE SAME And despite the fact that Smith had a mountain of retail experience over the years, she is still taken by surprise by how varied it is, running her own business. “Each day is different,” she reveals. “Some days you can be just matching up shrugs or fascinators to a dress that a customer is restyling for the next wedding she is going to. “Other days, we can be filling up the fitting room with every size 10 dress we have, while a customer is busy trying them all on before she decides which one is the right one.”
THE PERSONAL TOUCH In addition to being the supplier of these in-demand garments, Smith prides herself on offering her customers something that will always prove to be invaluable: the personal touch. “We always encourage the customer to bring in her own shoes and try on the whole outfit. It never matters to us that the dress may not have been bought from us as she will keep
INTERVIEW
us in mind for the next occasion,” she mentions. “We are well known for having bags and shrugs in lots of colours to match up with something they already have and that helps them keep the cost down.” Which is probably why customers of the Dún Laoghaire boutique are now coming in their droves from further afield. “We have noticed lately that some of our customers are travelling from Northern Ireland – they usually stay in the nearby Royal Marine hotel,” Smith observes. “We also have day-trippers, maybe a group of friends who come on the DART and have a wander around Dún Laoghaire and maybe have lunch, then call in to us for a chat and a look through our reduced rails before heading back to the city centre or Malahide or Greystones.”
A CHANGING MARKET And while Sylvanna has only been in business for a relatively brief period, its genial owner has seen many changes within this time in terms of the tastes and demands of her customers. “Now, it’s about comfort,” she explains. “Many women would pop in at the weekend and purchase a top to go with jeans or black trousers which they already have. Before, a woman would come in and buy a full outfit. “Also the trend of leggings and boots in the winter and a tunic top is always a safe bet. Loose-fitting always seems to be the bestseller as it can hide everything for the mums on the go! In the summer, a brightly coloured top and white linen trousers along with the three quarter lengths in a wide range of colours would be our bestseller.”
SURRISE HITS According to Smith, one of the most rewarding aspects of being in the fashion
industry is its ability to continuously take you off guard. “Our biggest surprise was the popularity of skull bag, which was inspired by Alexander McQueen. We found this to be very successful over the Christmas period of 2012. That snowballed into skull scarves, bracelets - you name it. If it had a skull on it, it sold - and it still sells now, albeit in much smaller quantities. “The most recent popular tend was the maxi dress and I think it’s safe to say we will be seeing it again this summer,” Smith asserts.
MARKETING THE NEW BUSINESS But with any new business, generating awareness for your store can take time and lots of hard work, a challenge that didn’t phase this boutique owner in the slightest. “To begin with, we found getting people to come upstairs quite difficult. To tackle this, we made flyers, developed a Facebook page and did many other things, but our best advertisement was word of mouth. “And the last time we had the bad snow in late 2010,” Smith recalls, “I had a few days with no sales at all - not good in my first year. So, we approached a few local business women who could not find anywhere to shop for gifts for their staff to come in and buy at a discount price. We figured that moving stock and having something in the till was worth the discounts and they have all stayed customers since.”
THE POWER OF AN ONLINE PRESENCE Something that has really taken off over the past number of years in the industry is having an online presence, although apart from an active and popular Facebook page, Smith believes her customers appreciate the one-to-one interactions that come with in-store shopping. “I have found that customers like to try
on the clothes and touch the fabric before they make up their mind. Most like to shop in person as retail therapy makes you feel good. Also, to get the personal service and advice instead of just looking at a photo is something that will never go out of fashion, so to speak!” Even though she has found such immediate success, Smith does not see herself as someone that might be able to give advice to up-and-coming entrepreneurs and fashionistas. “I don’t think I could advise an entrepreneur but there is an old saying - ‘If you love what you do, you will never work a day in your life’. And you have to be a people person - know your customer, and be prepared to give them your time,” she says. And to the future. Smith has recently taken advantage of a funding initiative that supports the opening of new businesses and just launched a second boutique, also on Dún Laoghaire’s busy George’s Street, called Enchanted. “People said I was mad opening up another store but I love Dún Laoghaire – it’s where I grew up – and I want to see the heart of the town busy and alive again. I want to give back,” she says. Having achieved so much so soon, surely the world is Sylvia Smith’s oyster. “Who knows what the future holds? Staying open is an achievement in itself these days! But our initial success is not just down to me - it’s thanks to the friendly staff also. “But I hope to stay loving what I do and hope that other people love it, too. I trust I will never tire of getting a buzz from the simple things like seeing customers walking around holding my shop bags.” And seeing as she is such an exemplary example of a positive and successful independent retailer, we hope Smith never tires of it, too. May/June 2015 | Futura Magazine 19
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