Menswear in Ireland

OCTOBER 2018

CUTTING A FINE FIGURE

INTERVIEW WITH TONY FITZGERALD OF FITZGERALD MENSWEAR

STYLE ONDEMAND THE BEST NOS COLLECTIONS

VOX POP: NOW AND THEN RETAILERS’ VIEWS ON 21 YEARS OF CHANGE

THE CUSTOMER IS KING

INTERVIEW WITH LOUIS COPELAND OF LOUIS COPELAND & SONS

DISCOVER OUR NEW SPRING / SUMMER COLLECTION WWW.CAMELACTIVE.DE

CONTACT: UK | LONDON & MANCHESTER MARC THOMPSON | PHONE: +44 (0)7887 8811 72 IRELAND DAVID FURLONG | PHONE: +353 (87) 231 1247

WELCOME

Happy birthday, Menswear in Ireland! Yes, it’s hard to believe but, having published our inaugural issue in the autumn of 1997, we’re celebrating our 21st anniversary!

In just over two decades, the changes have been hard to believe – the menswear sector, the retail landscape at large and, indeed, the publishing side of the business have all witnessed widescale transformation. Some good, some bad, of course – but we’re still here, and hoping to have 21 (and many more) years ahead of us!

To commemorate this special anniversary edition, we’ve called in some of the key players (retailers, agents, brand CEOs and even former editors), past and present, from the menswear industry to share their experiences over the past 21 years and document some of the key changes they’re seen in the industry. Their respective experiences are both insightful and revealing, and can be found on pages 2-5 and 15-17.

Two of the country’s leading retailers, Louis Copeland and Tony Connolly, prove to be fascinating interviewees, giving an insight into running a thriving menswear business. Their interviews can be found on pages 18-19 and 24-25 respectively.

While the concept of Never Out of Stock (NOS) collections had yet to be conceived, let alone realised, back in 1997, today they’re an increasingly important offer for many of the key fashion brands. On pages 28-31, we profile some of the leading NOS collections and what they entail.

With so much looking back, it’s no harm to look forward, too. Our next issue, the November/December edition, will see a focus on the leading trade shows for the early part of 2019 – where to go to get the all-important first previews of the new A/W19 collections.

We’ll also be covering the early A/W collections for next year, and will include a round-up of the best Christmas Packs and Gift Sets, as well as promotional POS material for the Christmas Sales and the post-Christmas sell-off. Please note that the copy deadline is 16 November.

In the meantime, on behalf of all of us at Menswear, thank you one and all for your continued support. Without you, we wouldn’t be here.

Best wishes,

CONTENTS 2 ALL CHANGED, CHANGED UTTERLY

As Menswear celebrates 21 years, key players in the industry share their memories

6 NEWS

www.skypublishing.ie

Telephone: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 Email: mail@skypublishing.ie Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre Sales & Marketing Manager: Avril Smith Editor: Alexander Fitzgerald Assistant Editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue Printers: Swift Print Solutions. © All editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publishers, Sky Publishing 2018.

Six Irish retailers reveal how the rag trade has changed over the past 21 years

18 THE CUSTOMER IS KING

Interview with Louis Copeland of Louis Copeland & Sons

24 CUTTING A FINE FIGURE Interview with Tony Fitzgerald of Fitzgerald Menswear

28 NOS COLLECTIONS

Menswear in Ireland is produced five times annually. If you would like to receive our next issue, drop us a line on a postcard with your details to: Menswear in Ireland, Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main Street, Rathfarnham, Dublin 14, Ireland. www.skypublishing.ie

The latest from the fashion sector at home and abroad

15 VOX POP: NOW AND THEN

Alexander Fitzgerald, Editor

SEE US ON

COVER IMAGE: Remus Uomo AW18

The latest Never Out of Stock collections

32 TAKING ON THE BIG BOYS

How Brent Pope’s eponymous shirt and shoe brand is making its mark

34 THE NAME’S BOND

Interview with Brendan Moloney, the new owner of formalwear rental specialist, Bond Brothers

MENSWEAR IN IRELAND: 1997-2018

ALL CHANGED, CHANGED UTTERLY… IN THE TWO DECADES SINCE MENSWEAR PUBLISHED ITS INAUGURAL ISSUE, THE INDUSTRY HAS WITNESSED PHENOMENAL CHANGE, WHETHER IT BE IN PERSONNEL, IN HOW BUSINESSES IS CONDUCTED OR IN THE STRUGGLES INDEPENDENT RETAILERS HAVE FACED. HERE SOME OF THE KEY PLAYERS IN THE SECTOR, SOME OF WHOM ARE STILL INVOLVED, LOOK BACK ON THEIR TIME IN THE TRADE AND SHARE THEIR VIEWS, MEMORIES AND PERSPECTIVES ON THE KEY CHANGES OVER THE PAST 21 YEARS. JUNE CONSIDINE, FIRST EDITOR OF MENSWEAR IN IRELAND I’m forever arguing with time. Where did it go? When will it stop flying like an arrow through my life? Imagine, therefore, my surprise when I was contacted by Menswear in Ireland and asked to write a column for the magazine’s twenty-first birthday.

“You must be joking,” I gasped. “Surely Menswear in Ireland is still only a child or, at most, a teenager? When did it get to be twenty-one?”

That’s the trouble with blinking. You close your eyes for an instant and, suddenly, you’re reeling in the years. As that wonderful performer, Nina Simone, used to sing, ‘Who knows where the time goes.’

So, here I am, staring at the first edition of Menswear in Ireland and it does, indeed, state that it was produced in 1997. That gorgeous hunk on the front cover remains as disturbingly dashing as he did when I decided he should grace the cover of our first edition. Am I allowed to use a word like ‘hunk’ nowadays - or could it be construed as sexist in this era of political correctness? Hopefully not, as many hunks featured on that edition and have continued to do so ever since.

But, I digress. Back to the beginning.

I’m looking back at myself from the editorial pages, twenty-one years younger and looking decidedly calm, despite deadline pressures and the adrenaline rush as I worked alongside Avril Smith (the beating heart of Futura 2 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

and Menswear in Ireland) to launch Ireland’s first dedicated trade menswear magazine.

We’d been having a coffee together one morning when the idea took root.

“We should examine menswear trends in a forthcoming issue of Futura,” Avril said.

“We could put together a supplement on the industry.”

I agreed, willingly. We’d always worked well together. Avail had, and still possesses, the professional skills and intuition of a born advertising executive.

I had, and still possess, a bloodhound nose for sniffing out a throwaway remark and building it into a newsworthy feature.

We set to work and our supplement was going as planned. In fact, it was progressing even better than anticipated.

The enthusiastic reaction Avril received from buyers and manufacturers encouraged her to think beyond this one-off supplement. Why not produce a standalone magazine on a bi-annual basis at the start of the spring and autumn seasons, she suggested.

There is a right moment for everything and, suddenly, this was deemed by us to be the one. More discussions and more cups of coffee followed as we planned how to proceed. We hung out a lot in cafes in those days but we were coffee addicts rather than aficionados.

Starbucks had yet to mushroom on our horizons, beans belonged to Batchelors, and if anyone had described themselves as a Barista, we’d have assumed they wore a wig and hung out in the Four Courts!

Needless to say, coffee didn’t prevent us suffering moments of utter panic as the deadline drew nearer. I remember one frantic phone call to Avril - I think it had to

do with the cover, but it could have been one of many things. All I remember was an overwhelming urge to breathe deeply into a brown paper bag.

Some of the features stand out in my memory. I interviewed Tommy Hilfiger, whose brand was also about to be launched into Brown Thomas that autumn. I sent reporter, Giselle Scanlan, on a stroll through the Hibernian Way and its surrounds where she spoke to Tom Kennedy (Alias Tom) Ian Killock (Monaghans) Susan Horan (Custom Store) Stephen Walshe (Michael Barrie) and Patrick O’Neill (Massimo). Today, reading through their various comments, I’m struck by how little has changed in terms of brand importance, customer service, niche marketing, and the changing attitude of the male customer.

Nor does the magazine look particularly dated since its inception. Many of the brands are still going strong and the sixpack torso, now so ubiquitous, was very much in vogue even then, as evidenced by our undercover story about boxers versus briefs.

Magee was doing what Magee does best – and spring 1997 was a mix of relaxed and classic designs with a new casual, unstructured jacket called Errigal.

Arnotts had opened up their new menswear department and was targeting the young, fashion conscious male with a collection of trend-setting brands. The Cobra group had established its first Irish outlet on Henry Street with more planned in major Irish cities. Gallagher, the Irish shirt and jeanswear company, was opening a retail outlet on London’s Kensington High Street.

Businesses and brands toing and froing, expanding, down-sizing,

MENSWEAR IN IRELAND: 1997-2018 reshaping, constantly evolving and battling the counterfeit market; these were the main stories that featured in our first edition. Sportswear was deemed to be the success story of the 90s, its styles evolving from the demands of snowboarders and rollerbladers, who wanted relaxed, loose sportswear for their leisure activities.

On the home front, the late Charles Haughey’s finances were coming under scrutiny. Little did we realise that we, as a nation, would soon discover that there was more to shirts than plains, checks and stripes, and that a certain brand, namely Charvet, was going to become a whole other shirty story.

I travelled extensively during that time, Germany, London, France, Portugal, Spain. Apart from seeing the finished menswear products at trade fairs, I visited factories and studios to watch the process of spinning, weaving, designing and manufacturing. I felt as if I was in the eye of the industry, not just seeing it in its finished perfection.

I was particularly intrigued by the mannequins on display at the front of exhibitions stands, dressed in suits of powdery blue and soft salmon pink.

I longed to see those colours flowing down Grafton Street, lounging in Irish pubs, streaming from offices across the country. How dull the standard grey, navy and black always seemed when I returned home.

Certain incidents stand out in my mind but the one that still causes me to shiver was my inability to work the German train ticket machines. On one occasion, I jumped aboard a train in Cologne, hoping I would not be caught. The train had no sooner started when three inspectors swept through the carriages checking tickets. Two young women were marched off for questioning but I survived the journey without anyone coming near me.

Imagine my relief when I reached Dusseldorf Central and disembarked.

Imagine, also, my horror, when I realised I’d left my briefcase on the train. I won’t go into all the details of the hours that followed, except to state that when I finally located the lost property office, which was somewhere in the bowels of the station, the first thing I was asked to produce was my ticket! But, being in Germany, where efficiency is the key word, my briefcase was recovered eventually, contents, including my plane ticket and passport still intact. All that was missing was my flight, which had

departed three hours earlier.

Since those early days, Menswear in Ireland, under the capable hands of editor, Alexander Fitzgerald, has gone on to bigger and better things. So, all that’s left for me to do is wish owner, Pat Codyre, Avril, Alexander and everyone involved in its production a very happy twenty-first anniversary and continued success!

ALEXANDER FITZGERALD, CURRENT EDITOR, MENSWEAR IN IRELAND My relationship with Menswear began when, in 1998, I fortuitously came across a copy in the reception of an office I was working in.

Attracted by its design and content, I made contact with the editor, June Considine, to see if I might contribute to future issues.

Two weeks later, I was given my very first writing commission - an interview with an up-and-coming Irish designer, Sholto Williams. While the piece might not have been shortlisted for any writing awards, it was enough to secure me ad hoc features with the magazine, which, in time, developed to become regular contributions and, eventually, the role of editor.

Much has changed in the interim, not least in how technology has impacted on freelance writing. When I began with Menswear, the final copy (the article itself) would be emailed to the editor, but images, which were invariably too large to send via email, were burnt onto a disc and hand-delivered. Tedious, certainly, but at least it ensured that they reached their destination!

The process of interviews themselves have not changed greatly — the dialogue is usually recorded, albeit now on a smart phone as opposed to a clunky Dictaphone, which was the technology du jour back in the late 90s — although email now plays a far more significant role as the questions (and, sometimes, answers) can be sent back and forth instantly.

Beyond the office, the most notable changes in the menswear sector are undoubtedly on the high street. Where once the independent retailer was king, the past 21 years have seen a number of highly respected stores (FX Kelly on

Grafton Street, for example) exit the market. A corollary to this, of course, is the rise of the large-scale multinationals and the insatiable demand for fastfashion.

The result is, of course, greater choice and, usually, lower prices. But it comes at a price: the lack of any unique identity to a shopping city, the homogenisation of fashion and, perhaps saddest of all, the loss of the personal touch.

LYNN TEMPLE, CHAIRMAN, MAGEE “The menswear industry in Ireland, as in every Western country, has massively changed in 21 years since 1997.

“Global sourcing has brought prices down and some labels have followed this and trade successfully on price. Others, including Magee, have worked hard and invested in developing a brand playing to strengths of style and quality – not the cheapest, but value for money.

“Casualwear, as a lifestyle choice and percentage of clothing spend, has hugely increased and there is some fantastic casualwear on the market, including Magee!

“Despite this, tailored wear has held up extraordinarily well, particularly with the growth of the occasion-wear market for suits and jackets. The business suit market has declined outside professional circles and main centres but is still very much there.

“The independent retail trade in Ireland, through the on-going interest, investment and enthusiasm of its respective owners, has continued strongly relative to its UK counterpart. The latter being squeezed hard by the big multiples, which now, in turn, are themselves under extreme pressure, e.g. House of Fraser, etc. The Irish independent has proven that where good choice and service are given, the customer continues to show loyally.

“Magee, in its seasonal collections and stock-backed garments has done its utmost to reflect many of the above fashion and lifestyle changes with a very strong structured and casual offer from its Design Team.

“Magee has over 150 years of heritage with cloths and garments made primarily from wool and with the increasing emphasis on sustainability will keep MENSWEAR in Ireland | 3

NEWS majoring on this but with a contemporary twist - given by the 5th generation of the Temple family and a great, enthusiastic team.

WOLFGANG DÖRING, FORMER FASHION AGENT As the man who brought Bugatti to the Irish market in 1976, Wolfgang Döring needs little introduction. Now enjoying his retirement, the Dublinbased former fashion agent looks back on his career and shares his memories of how the industry evolved.

“The year 1997 started for me with a big bang; I had to adapt again to challenging changes. The old reliable hotel stockrooms had proved lately to be more and more unsuitable to show Lifestyle concepts - arriving in a customer’s premises with loads of samples became difficult and inconvenient.

“My own quirky showroom in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 proved a suitable venue to present the bigger coordinated product lines. It gave customers the opportunity to see the interconnected style collection before ordering.

“It takes many years of huge effort and cost to establish a menswear brand. Manufacturers support this with brand literature, window display material and shop-fit-outs, and a collection that is worthy to be called a brand name.

A showroom, needless to say, is an important part of this.

“Retailers, realising the importance of menswear brands accepted the transition to a local showroom. However, the success or failure of a brand happens on the shopfloor.

“For me, it was important to meet customers and the staff before and after the showroom selling period in order to promote the brands learn and listen to comments - check the competition - get the staff‘s support to secure special floor space and to fill in any missing stock. I enjoyed every day!

“After the transition from hotel stockroom to showroom, the next transition was to digital technology. Staff today have smartphones or tablets to advise their special clients of the latest trends and in-store events.

“Despite the rise of technology, the 4 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

prime objective in menswear has always been and always will be: GET THE CONSUMER INTO THE SHOP. I was always focused what is happening on the shop floor.

“With electronic ordering, the successful Brand Manager can establish a customer profile and his individual special requirement. These early trend indicators are useful for future planning by manufacturers “In 1997, I managed five quality menswear product lines of these two survived, one being Bugatti. To be associated with this European brand was an honour.

“Today, what do I miss? I miss the people behind the counter because they challenged me every season.

“I am happy, though that I have left Bugatti in safe and highly competent hands. Under Stephen Lynch, the brand continues to go from strength to strength. And long may that continue!”

MICHAEL STAUNTON, FORMER FASHION AGENT Michael’s introduction to sales and to agencies began in 1965 when he was appointed Sales agent for Foxford Woollen Mills; and to menswear in 1968, when he secured the agency for the Dublin-based manufacturer of men’s rainwear, J. Mandleberg. Over the years he established himself as one of the most important players in the sector.

Eight years after starting out in the sector, Michael Staunton’s big break into menswear came in 1973, when he secured the agency for leading French manufacturer Vestra, and in 1974 when, together with Tom Joyce and the late Michael Parsons (Brian McKenna joined the company as a director a short time later), he formed the Derek Michael Agency, which was to become an important part of the menswear scene in Ireland. The Derek Michael office was in Foxford, Dublin 18, and a Dublin showroom opened at 29/30 Dame Street, Dublin 2 in conjunction with Brian V McKenna.

Three further agencies were secured: Kwaspen (trousers), Jean Chatel (shirts), and Bush (casuals). All proved highly successful, particularly Vestra; in 1977,

Derek Michael won the European award for the highest annual sales of Vestra based on population.

Michael officially retired in 2004, following a surprise party at the Hodson Bay Hotel in Athlone, which was attended by his many friends in the trade, and by representatives of the companies he represented.

While he retired officially in 2004, Michael continued working until June 2005 - a total of 40 years of successful trading. Over the following decade he made annual visits to all of his former customers, and was very pleased that practically all had continued to trade despite the recession.

When queried in relation to changes over the years, Michael noted the demise of the stockroom, and the infrequent visits of sales agents, and of company representatives.

He recalls the time when buying was influenced by fabric weight, quality and price. This, he mentions, changed gradually in the late 60s and early 70s, when buyers travelled to London to attend the menswear exhibition IMBEX. “During the following years, attendance by Irish buyers at menswear exhibitions extended to Germany, France, and Italy, and fashion grew in importance, fuelled by the interest of the consumer in fashion, and in designer labels. During this time, retailers updated and modernised their premises, placing Irish menswear retailers on par, with their contemporaries in Europe.

“The next change related to casual wear. Suits were worn to work, in shops, banks, offices, etc., then we had casual Friday, when employees went to work dressed casually, and casual wear became an important part of the male wardrobe.

A further observation by Michael has been the decrease in footfall, which he puts down to “the introduction of online shopping, which has been embraced by the younger shopper, and poses a serious challenge to the menswear retailer in the years ahead.”

He may have finally bid farewell to the menswear sector following a long and successful career, but Michael’s interest remains undiminished – he maintains his annual subscription to Futura and Menswear in Ireland, and enjoys maintaining regular contact with his many friends in the menswear sector.

Congratulations Sky Publishing for your 21 years of Menswear in Ireland.

NEWS

The Euromode team is delighted with this opportunity to thank our clients and friends in the trade for your support over the past 33 years.

Euromode is the leading fashion logistics and forwarding service provider to the Menswear business in Ireland with our unique facilities for storage, pick & pack and the best fashion transport network in Europe.

“Our People Make The Difference�

Tel 01 4599500

www.euromode-eurosped.ie

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 5

NEWS

NEWS MARC DARCY NAMED AMONGST THE WINNERS AT DRAPERS AWARDS Independent fashion retailers, leading brands and agencies came together at a ceremony on 11 September to celebrate the 28th Drapers Independents Awards.

Formalwear specialist Marc Darcy was, for the second year running, announced as the winner of the Menswear Brand of the Year, beating fellow finalists including Tommy Hilfiger, Farah, Barbour International and Remus Uomo. The Manchester suitbased brand, which has expanded into childrenswear in the past year, impressed the judging panel with its high-quality offering and competitive price points, and its ability to cater to its target market.

In the ladies’ section, Mos Mosh saw off the competition — which included fellow

OLYMP FOCUSES ON LEVEL FIVE SMART BUSINESS COLLECTION Following the successful market launch of the its No. Six super-slim business shirt and the exclusive Signature premium range, shirt specialist Olymp is already launching its next product innovation with the 2018 Autumn Collection under the title of OLYMP Level Five Smart Business.

It features a modern body fit shirt, which specifically reflects the general trend towards more casual looks.

OLYMP Owner and CEO Mark Bezner explains: “With the decision to introduce the OLYMP Level Five Smart Business range, we are reflecting the market trend towards a casual style of clothing in the business world, but one which can still be regarded as absolutely appropriate for the office.

6 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Marc Darcy was named Menswear Brand of the Year

finalists Barbour, Bella Freud, Frank Lyman and Ted Baker — to claim the award for Womenswear Brand of the Year.

The prestigious Menswear Independent of the Year award, sponsored by Remus Uomo, went to Psyche, the 40,000 square foot luxury fashion boutique which has stores in Teeside and Middlesbrough.

Irish independents EJ Menswear in Sligo, Galvin Tullamore and McCalls of Lisburn were amongst the category finalists.

Cheshire-based indie Black White Denim emerged as the winner in the Womenswear

“It’s not a question here of either a classic business shirt or a conventional leisure shirt, but a kind of hybrid fashion, which will unite the positive factors from both style directions and therefore reflect the current prevailing fashion taste of the target group to a great extent.”

Classic woven fabrics in particularly fine spins take on an informal look through the use of special finishing processes and a garment wash finish. Special finishing details used in traditional shirt production, such as collar stiffener pockets or short seam stitch lengths, are features of this new range, along with very soft collar structures, to give this modern garment its unique casual character.

“Within the context of the preorders for the autumn 2018 season, OLYMP Level Five Smart Business has already received a pleasing response from our international specialist retail partners,” said Bezner.

Independent of the Year category.

EJ Menswear was amongst the finalists in a second category, Most Influential on Social Media, which was won by multichannel activewear retailer Fashercise. The Sligo-based indie has built up a cult following with its ‘out of the box’ ideas, and is renowned for reacting quickly to events around the world. According to owner Eamonn Cunningham, approximately 30 per cent of the store’s website traffic comes from its proactive social media channels.

NEWS

THIRDGENERATION MENSWEAR RETAILER CEASES TRADING Having been trading for over a century, Allen menswear on Bray’s Main Street closed its doors for a final time in midSeptember.

Set up in 1909, Allen’s had most recently been run by Tom Allen and his wife, representing the third generation of Allens involved in the business.

Following their announcement regarding the decision to cease trading, the Allens received an outpouring of good wishes from the community, including former members of staff and loyal customers, as well as their fellow traders.

The couple had intended to remain open for a few weeks after starting their closing down sale started recently, but the stock sold out in 24 hours. Ina Allen mentioned how the business had made a concerted effort to ensure that vouchers were honoured before they shut up shop for the last time.

The couple’s decision to wind up the shop was based on a number of factors.

“Tom’s health had deteriorated and I’m not getting any younger,” Ina Allen said.

“There’s a limit, and we decided this year not to buy in for Christmas.’

A downturn in trade in recent years also contributed to their decision, with online sales and Dundrum shopping centre increasing in popularity.

The most recent team at the shop included Pat Keenan, who had been at Allen for 23 years, and Raymond McGuire, who had joined the business 18 months ago.

The now vacant premises, which is

situated in the centre of what could be reasonably described as Bray’s Golden Mile, is now on the market through John Doyle of HJ Byrne Auctioneers with a guide price of €500,000.

The location of the two-storied premises is likely to prove a strong draw. It is positioned directly opposite what will be the main access to the proposed Florentine Centre. Adjoining businesses include Reads, Boots and AIB. Footfall in the area is said to be outstanding.

DEBENHAMS NOT SEEKING MAJOR STORE RESTRUCTURING

ICONIC CLERYS PREMISES ACQUIRED IN €63M DEAL International investor Europa Capital has acquired the Clerys premises on O’Connell Street from businesswoman Deirdre Foley’s Natrium consortium for a figure in the region of €63m.

The deal, which is understood to have been completed in late September is expected to see Europa Capital deliver on Natrium’s plan to transform the former Dublin department store through the delivery of a major mixed-use development comprising offices, retail units, leisure facilities and a boutique hotel.

The ambitious project was given planning permission by Dublin City Council in December 2016 despite the objections of former workers who lost their jobs when the landmark department store suddenly changed ownership.

Natrium, which is 20pc-owned by Ms Foley’s D2 Private and 80pc-owned by London-based Cheyne Capital acquired Clerys and its property portfolio in 2015 for a figure in the region of €29m.

Europa Capital is widely acknowledged as one of Europe’s leading investors in the retail, office and residential sectors. The company’s existing portfolio already includes major developments in the UK, France, Germany and Spain.

8 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

There was much confusion over the fate of Debenhams following media speculation that the chain’s adviser, KPMG, was considering a Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA), which allows retailers to avoid insolvency or administration by offloading unwanted stores and securing reduced rents on others. This news led to stocks plummeting.

Debenhams, which has issued three profit warnings this year and whose shares have lost two-thirds of their value, rushed to reassure investors by issuing a statement.

“Anyone who’s actually studied the subject would know we’re not insolvent,” chairman Ian Cheshire argued. “It’s like having a bunch of nosy neighbours watching your house.”

He added: “Somebody sees somebody in a suit going into a room, the second person concludes it’s a doctor, the third person concludes it’s an undertaker and by the time you get to the end of the day, you’ve got cause of death and everyone’s looking forward to the funeral.”

While far from being laid to rest, Debenhams’ unhealthy share price reflects structural shifts in retail and an “extraordinary year of upheaval” in the department store sector.

“We’ve got lots of things we can do. The challenge for us is we’ve identified a new format - now how do we move from the legacy of many years of very long leases?” Cheshire questioned.

In the past, companies such as New Look and Mothercare have made use of CVAs.

Contact: R. E. Flanagan & Sons Ltd. 路 Dublin 17 路 Phone 01/8 02 20 18 路 flanagan@olymp.com 路 OLYMP.COM

Men in OLYMP

NEWS

HOUSE OF FRASER DUNDRUM CONTINUES TRADING AMID UK BUYOUT The Dundrum branch of House of Fraser is continuing trading following the announcement that Mike Ashley’s Sports Direct has acquired all 59 House of Fraser stores across the UK and Ireland for £90m. However, the future of the South Dublin store, which directly employs a total of 146 staff with an additional 400 hired by concessions, hangs in the balance.

House of Fraser employs a total of 17,000 staff members across almost 60 stores and there is much uncertainty over

the long-term future of these jobs and whether Ashley will shut underperforming stores as part of a restructuring programme.

These developments arrive amidst many chaotic changes taking place across the British retail landscape where numerous store groups have gone out of business or announced plans to close shops. Subdued consumer spending, rising labour costs and growing online competition are all being cited as reasons for a downward spiral of fortunes.

EUROMODE STILL AHEAD OF THE PACK Euromode were in our very first issue back in 1997, and we are delighted to see they are still Ireland’s leading specialist transport and logistics company, supporting the fashion industry with distribution networks throughout Europe.

We wish them continued success for the next 21 years and beyond!

NEXT SETS UP IRISH COMPANY IN PREPARATION FOR BREXIT

NEW DUBLIN SHOWROOM FOR REMUS UOMO Remus Uomo has opened the doors to its new showroom in Santry’s Business Park.

Located just a stone’s throw from the airport, the premises joins the company’s extensive portfolio of premium showrooms in other locations, including Staffordshire, Glasgow, Manchester and London.

The new Dublin unit comprises of two permanent 1,400 sq ft showrooms – one dedicated to Remus Uomo; the other shared by premium contemporary-classic brand Douglas, along with the company’s other classic ranges, including Daniel 10 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Grahame and Wellington.

The showrooms were completed and officially opened at the beginning of the trade buying period and welcomed their first buyers immediately after the respective range launches.

“The showrooms will be utilised not only for the forward-selling season but also through current selling and sale periods, so we believe this will be a valuable additional resource for our customer base in the South of Ireland,” said David McGuinness, Head of Sales for Ireland.

“Increased space and purpose-built display fixtures have allowed us to showcase the brands to their fullest effect and we look forward to a busy selling period ahead.”

While the ins and outs of Brexit continue to be debated in the UK, numerous companies - including high-street giant Next - are already putting measures in place to protect themselves from any cross-border customs issues.

Specialising in clothing and homeware, the popular retailer established a company in Dublin in September that will manage any problems that might arise from crossborder customs inside the European Union should a hard border prevail. This will include creating administrative, legal and physical infrastructure.

While Next already operates 28 retail stores in Ireland, a registered European entity is needed for purposes relating to customs duty registration. Aside from the threat of the pound losing its value, thereby affecting the costs of goods, there are also fears regarding queues and delays at ports within the UK and EU. Next anticipates full-year profits of around £727 million, up slightly on the £726.1 million experienced in 2017. The group sources around 10 per cent of its products from the EU and Turkey.

mc cotter agencies ¡ neal@mccotterandson.co.uk ¡ +44 28 9032 7770

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NEWS

CAUTIOUS WELCOME FOR BUBBLE REVIVAL

OLYMP HONOURED WITH MEN’S HEALTH STYLE AWARD Olymp has won the 2018 Style Award from lifestyle magazine Men’s Health.

The Hamburg men’s magazine’s fashionsavvy readers chose Olymp as the clear winner for business shirts in its annual questionnaire regarding readers’ favourite brands in various categories. Readers’ votes at Men’s Health have, for years, been a reliable and trendsetting indicator of current trends in men’s fashion.

The call for entries for the 2018 Men’s Health Readers’ Survey was made in the March and April 2018 issues, the spring/summer issue of the Best Fashion magazine and also via its newsletter and numerous digital channels. Altogether, several thousand readers possessing a strong fashion sense took part in this year’s vote.

With 49.5 per cent, Olymp was awarded first place in the business shirt category. As a result, the Olymp brand was able to record very high approval ratings once again – with its competitors all at a considerable distance – especially in the areas of value-for-money, product quality and comfort.

Mark Bezner, owner and CEO of Olymp, said: “Our repeated success at the 2018 Men’s Health Style Award with our proven business shirt lines is once more a clear acknowledgement of the progressive and timeless brand that is Olymp.

“We will, therefore, keep applying all our expertise, motivation, strength and ideas towards high-quality products, fashion innovations and cutting-edge collections, so that we can offer our customers the highest standards at all times.”

12 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Childrenswear brands have largely welcomed the news that trade show Bubble is to be revived at Pure London in February, but have raised concerns over the timing of the exhibition and warned it may lose relevance as part of a bigger event.

Bubble, which is owned by ITE, was cancelled in April after more than a decade, as a result of consolidation in the childrenswear sector. Going forward, it will take place as part of Pure London, the ladieswear trade show which which ITE bought earlier this year, merging with Pure’s own kidswear section, which was

H&M TO LAUNCH DISCOUNT RETAILER Capitalising on the universal appeal of their stores worldwide, H&M has just introduced a fresh name to their everincreasing portfolio. Called Afound, this new chain of will sell H&M clothing at a discounted price, and launched in Stockholm and Malmö in June - the home cities of the brand.

Aimed at bargain-hunters, and fashioned on the current trend towards outlet stores, Afound will launch in Ireland shortly. It will also be available online.

H&M, which also owns & Other Stories, COS and Arket, trails Zara alone as the biggest clothing firm in the world. In Ireland, the company enjoys an extensive presence with a total of 15 stores scattered throughout the country.

In addition to one & Other Stories store, which opened last year, they boast five COS stores.

introduced in July. The menswear section of Birmingham trade show Moda is also moving to Pure London in February.

Concerns have been raised regarding the timing of Pure, which clashes with the popular trade show INDX Kidswear.

Pure will take place in London’s Olymp from 10-12 February, while the 2-day INDX Kidswear show is scheduled for 1011 February at Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre.

Paul Costelloe menswear

BUMPER YEAR FOR PAUL COSTELLO Paul Costello, one of Ireland’s most cherished designers, enjoyed a great year if recent accounts are to be considered.

Accumulated profits at the firm topped the €1 million mark, an impressive jump from the €458,155 experienced last year, and a vast improvement on the €236,649 earned in 2016.

Last year, staff employed by the firm increased from four to five.

Amongst many highlights in the designer’s glittering career, Costello is currently enjoying a high-profile collaboration with Dunnes Store.

NEWS

DECATHLON TO OPEN NINE SHOPS IN IRELAND Decathlon is set to make its mark on the Irish landscape next year with the news that they are to open nine shops across the country. Dublin, Cork and Galway have already been earmarked as likely locations while it is hoped that their arrival will see over 500 new jobs being created.

The low-cost, family-owned French sports retailer — which boasts 1,350 stores across more than 40 countries and was recently voted France’s best-loved brand — was originally set to launch in Ireland in 2008 but that fell by the wayside following the economic crash.

Now, though, it has established its first Irish office (in Sandyford, Dublin 18), has a dedicated Irish ecommerce website, and is close to signing for its first store here, with a view to a 2019 opening.

Once the Dublin store is up and running, the company will then look to open in

OLYMP RECEIVES GERMAN BRAND AWARD 2018

Decathalon is hoping to open its first Irish store in 2019

Galway and Cork. A further two stores may subsequently follow in Dublin, as well as three more around the country.

According to Grandgeorge, Decathlon will distinguish itself from competitors such as Life Style Sports and Sportsdirect by offering only its own brand products for sale in Ireland. This, he stressed, means it won’t be in a “war” with other retailers on prices.

“We will change the market, we will show it cannot be a luxury to practice sport,” Grandgeorge said, adding that Decathlon had committed to offering prices at 20 per cent less than competitors.

For the successful and exceptional brand presentation of its new premium shirt range OLYMP SIGNATURE, German shirt brand Olymp has been honoured for the first time with the German Brand Award 2018 in the competition classes “Excellence in Branding”, as well as “Excellence in Brand Strategy, Management and Creation” by the German Brand Institute and its panel of experts.

The awards were achieved in the categories “Product Brand of the Year” for best product brand, as well as “Brand Creation – Point of Sales” for the successful brand presentation at the point of sales.

Presentation of the prestigious trophies took place in the Palazzo Italia at the Römischer Hof in Berlin, followed by a gala dinner in the Schlüterhof at the Deutsches Historisches Museum.

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NEWS

FAILED TAKEOVER BID FOR FRENCH CONNECTION REVEALED High-street fashion chain French Connection has reported that they received an unsolicited takeover approach from an unnamed US party in 2017, which ultimately proved unsuccessful. This news

came as the company also announced that it suffered annual losses for a sixth consecutive year.

A statement from the company read: “During [2017], we received an unsolicited approach about a potential offer for the Group from a third party in the US. In the interest of all shareholders, we entered a period of full due diligence and negotiation over a number of months. This ultimately did not lead to an offer for the group.”

French Connection, which has a premises in Dublin’s Powerscourt House Centre, reported a loss of £2.3 million

SilverTech’s Organic Basic underwear can be worn for weeks without washing

ORLA KIELY CLOSES RETAIL AND WHOLESALE FASHION BUSINESS In news that came as a great surprise to the fashion industry, Orla Kiely announced that she has closed the fashion wing of her global company.

A note on the designer’s website stated: “Kiely Rowan plc, the retail and wholesale fashion business of Orla Kiely, has ceased trading as of Monday 17 September, 2018. This means our retail stores in London and Kildare and our online business has closed.

“We apologise for any inconvenience caused. Orla Kiely’s Home and Design licensing business will not be impacted, and its selection of accessories and homewares will continue to be sold through its distribution partners.”

The directors of Kiely Rowan Plc decided that the much-loved business should enter voluntary liquidation, blaming the various challenges that the brand has faced in recent years.

Orla Kiely enjoyed universal success with her range of clothing and accessories thanks to her easily identifiable floral prints. Her Stem handbag has become iconic. A-listers such as Kate Middleton and Sarah Jessica Parker were fans of the Irish designers.

14 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

FASHION BRAND INVENTS UNDERWEAR YOU WON’T NEED TO WASH ‘FOR WEEKS’ A Danish fashion brand has caused a stir with its latest innovation - eco-friendly underwear you won’t have to wash ‘for weeks’.

While the idea of underwear that goes weeks without a wash sounds alarming, Organic Basics’ designs incorporate a silver treatment which is ‘naturally anti-microbial’ and, which the manufacturer claims, kills 99.9 per cent of bacteria and fungi.

The fabric technology is inspired by NASA, which uses silver to purify water in the International Space Station. By inhibiting the growth of bacteria, it also stops the creation of any undesirable odours, which could then escape from the wearer’s nether regions.

The revolutionary underwear — which is being sold as “durable, comfortable and odour-killing” — is kinder to the environment, according to Organic Basics, since it reduces the amount of water and washing powder used by the wearer, and is made from recycled materials.

The brand is seeking investment in the product Silvertech 2.0 on Kickstarter where they also claim they are breathable with ‘advanced ventilation in critical sweat zones’, heat regulating, and wrinkle-resistant.

French Connection was the subject of an unsuccessful takeover bid

for the 2017 trading period through to January. The silver lining was that this figure was an improvement on to the £5.3 million loss it recorded in 2016.

NEW JEANS TO LAST HALF A CENTURY A new brand of jeans distinguishes itself from the competition with an astonishing claim: that they will last for 50 years!

According to Deborah Marx, Managing Director of the company, Half Century Jeans are as comfortable as your favourite pair of jeans but built from a special hybrid of materials including Japanese selvedge denim, sourced from Okayama, and ultra durable Spectra fibres, which are 15 times stronger than cable steel.

“These are the closest thing to indestructible jeans available right now,” said Marx. “We are so confident of this that, for the next 50 years, they will be backed with a guarantee of free repair or replacement should anything happen to them.

“As consumers, we need to buy less and buy better, and to stop subscribing to the ‘fast fashion’ mentality that has become so prevalent and has made fashion the world’s second-most polluting industry.”

Using selvedge denim is crucial to the design of the Half Century Jeans because, according to Half Century Jeans, it is more durable, better value in terms of cost per wear, made ethically and looks smarter.

All cotton used in the production of Half Century Jeans is 100 per cent organic, free from pesticides, genetic modification and artificial fertilisers.

VOXPOP

NOW & THEN THE MENSWEAR RETAIL TRADE WAS AN UTTERLY DIFFERENT BEAST 21 YEARS AGO. HERE, SIX OF IRELAND’S MOST PROMINENT RETAILERS ROLL BACK THE YEARS AND SHARE THEIR THOUGHTS ON HOW THE SECTOR HAS CHANGED IN THE INTERIM. Boyle For Men

PATSY BOYLE BOYLE FOR MEN COOTEHILL, CO. CAVAN

Tony Connolly

Pat O’Byrne (right)

TONY CONNOLLY

PAT O’BYRNE

12-14 PATRICK STREET, LIMERICK

TOWNSPARKS SOUTH, TRIM, CO. MEATH

“I started in retail in the late 1950s and in the 1970s, I opened my own store. In comparison to today, things are totally different. Then, your main competition was with other independents – there were no big groups to compete with or online shopping, for instance. It’s impossible to compete with the big groups today because they have so much buying power - they can buy from cheaper countries.

“Recently, I walked down Grafton Street and I didn’t see any independent menswear retailers - it’s hardly surprising given the high rents that exist. In fact, to survive as an independent, you almost have to own your own property. In addition to crippling rents, many businesses also have to pay service charges, which are also very high, so their ability to make a profit is impossible.

“There are several key factors to succeeding as an independent store: offer the very best service possible; quality clothing and value for money.

Also, don’t try to be all things to all people – it’s an easy trap to fall into.

Above all else, remember that the most important person is not the owner or employee but the customer. The service you offer has to be the best.

“I started off 38 years ago and, since then, the menswear independent sector has changed so much – not least because of the rise of shopping centres, discount stores and online shopping. There is also the challenge from high-street stores that stock clothes that are very cheap – we don’t compete with them. We offer quality clothing at a good price. Personal service is key something that I feel sets the independents apart from those stores that we just mentioned, especially the internet.

“It’s difficult to know what the future holds but, being honest, I’d be worried. The younger generations – teenagers and early 20s – aren’t used to service; they don’t want it. They are a different animal.

“We attend showrooms and try to visit as many trade fairs as possible – maybe once a year or every second year – London, Berlin and so on. They have become so fragmented – some fairs show some labels; some show others. We tend to stick to our core brands that have served us well over the years.

“The best piece of advice that I could offer is to stick to your word – whether it’s to customers, suppliers, staff. Your word is all you have.”

CONNOLLY MAN

PAT O’BYRNE MANSHOP

“From 1952-56, I ‘served my time’ with Gargan’s. Following that, I spent 10 years with Murtagh’s in Carrickon-Shannon. After a short stint with Suiters of London, I returned home and opened my own store in Cootehill, where I’m glad to say we still operate from the same site. We also operate branches in both Cavan town and Monaghan town.

“Each generation brings its own challenges - in the early 90s there was no internet to compete with! Looking back at those times now, of course you could say that business was easier but at the time I would never have thought things were easy.

“Currently, we purchase 50 per cent plus of our stock in season, which helps us to react to any changing trend. Also, we plan our forward buys, so we receive stock every month within the season, which helps us maintain a fresh look inside our stores.

“Back in the day, it was imperative that I attended trade fairs because that’s when we placed our orders. I’m now retired from the business, and my son, Patrick, runs the show. He visits Berlin every winter, Florence and other shows occasionally. He tells me that it’s been a long time since he’s placed an order at any of these fairs, though.

“With all the doom and gloom we hear about retailing in the UK, it would be easy to believe that the same is in store for Ireland, but I believe independence is our strength.

As long as we work hard at our businesses and our communities, I’m confident that independent retailing will prevail. I’m an optimist by nature!”

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 15

Gerard Fitzgerald

GERARD FITZGERALD,

GERARD ANTHONY MENSWEAR THE MULVEY CENTRE, CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, CO. ROSCOMMON Garry (left) and Noel (center) Long

GARRY LONG NOEL’S MENSWEAR

WICKHAM STREET, LIMERICK

“The store was opened in 1977 by my father, Noel Long. In 2005, my brother, Bryan, sister, Vanessa, and I joined the company.

“I asked my dad about the differences between now and then, and he tells me that, today, we face increased competition from UK multiples along with single-branded stores and, of course, online. Competition is fierce now, but the key principles to succeeding remain the same as they did in 1977. “[In order to succeed], service and product are key. Value for money does not just need to be monetary in the sense of actual cash in your hand. Noel’s and Club Dangan have always carried only quality products; and giving the customer that little point of difference is what sets all independent menswear apart from larger retailers.

Here at Noel’s and Club Dangan, we focus daily on delivering this to our customers.

“For us, Berlin and Birmingham are regularly visited. The buying department is hoping accounts let us go to a few more next year! In all seriousness, attending these events is invaluable. Even to compare notes with fellow retailers is always worthwhile and enjoyable.

“I am very excited and optimistic about the future and, in particular, the next 18 months. Our sector, retail, certainly hasn’t enjoyed the revival quite as quickly as other sectors such as hospitality and the motor trade. But, I do believe the next year or so will be positive for our trade.

We have expanded into Ennis with Club Dangan and CD2 now under the umbrella of Noel’s. I believe our five stores - with the partnerships we have formed from a supply point of view - strengthens my optimism.

“My advice: take nothing for granted is probably the obvious one but I would actually say to be as positive and resilient as possible. I entered the trade directly from college in 2005 and enjoyed the first few years - in all honestly, they were actually easy. The economy as we all know was flying but since then it has been tough. Like most (or maybe all) readers of this magazine, lots of different obstacles were put in front of us during the downturn but we have managed to come through it. Having a strong team in place and partnering with supportive accounts have allowed us to grow the group to five stores.”

“We started in 1987. The past few years have been the toughest. We are situated in the west and haven’t experienced the same boom as businesses in the east of the country.

It’s difficult to experience growth.

Things are very different nowadays – particularly online shopping. We have a website and social media presence, but we don’t compete with online shopping yet – it involves a large capital investment and I’m not yet convinced of the return. We’ll see.

For us, the shopping experience is about the personal, hands-on approach – knowing your customers by their first names. We remember their sizes and spending habits. We have a loyalty-based system where we reward customers for their business, and it also helps us keep track of what they bought on previous occasions.

“Interestingly, 60 per cent of our business is from women, buying for husbands or sons. Men come into the store on Sundays – when they are relaxed, they buy!

“The reason we survived is because we changed our model - initially, we were small and if I continued in that way, we would have closed.

Customers’ expectations have changed – they want variety. They want a space that allows them to browse and not be intimidated – but they also want personalised service.

Parking is also important.”

VOXPOP

Patrick Bourke

PATRICK BOURKE PATRICK BOURKE MENSWEAR KILRUSH, CO. CLARE

‘The Kilrush store was opened 90 years ago in 1928 while the Ennis branch is 21 years this year – so it’s not just Menswear who is celebrating an anniversary! I’m 44 years in the industry. Over the years, we’ve carried out numerous changes to the properties – revamps, extensions, additional floors.

“Twenty-one years ago, there wasn’t as much demand on a weekly wage; today, there are so many expenses – mobiles, multi-channels TV packages, eating out. Back then, all the staff would bring their lunch – today, they are always heading out!

I’m not sure if clothing has the same prestige as it did years ago – it seems that customers aren’t willing to pay the premium prices any longer. They are always searching for value.

“The business suit sector has decreased incredibly – in this day and age, younger men aren’t wearing suits to work as frequently as they used to; they might wear chinos and a shirt instead. The old guard – bankers, teachers, solicitors – are retiring now and the younger bracket opts for more casual choices.

“That’s the key to staying in business – you have to stay relevant and inventive. In Ennis, we now have a barber and that’s brought the average [customer] age down by 15 years! There’s also a new café there. We have tailors working on the floor – we are creating a bit of theatre. It’s an experience. We are also introducing men’s gadgets – Apple watches, Smart watches and so forth.

“We mostly attend the majority of trade fairs in February – it’s just far too busy here in the summer. Florence, Düsseldorf – Moda less often. We visit showrooms in London, Dublin and Belfast.

‘Advice? Honesty to customers. Being straightforward.

Forward thinking – you can’t sit on your laurels. Something that works today might not work tomorrow. And, consistency – you can never take your foot off the pedal.’

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RETAILER INTERVIEW INTERVIEW

THE CUSTOMER IS KING MENSWEAR RECENTLY HAD THE PRIVILEGE OF SITTING DOWN WITH LOUIS COPELAND WHO, ALONG WITH HIS BROTHER, ADRIAN, IS THE THIRD GENERATION OVERSEEING ONE OF IRELAND’S MOST ICONIC FAMILY BUSINESSES, LOUIS COPELAND & SONS. TAKING A BREATHER FROM KITTING OUT HIS STYLISH CUSTOMERS, THE DUBLINER REFLECTED ON THE COMPANY’S LEGACY WHILE ALSO GIVING US SOME INSIGHTS INTO HOW TO SUCCEED IN THE EVER-CHANGING FASHION INDUSTRY In Ireland, when you think of men’s fashion, there’s one name that automatically springs to mind: Louis Copeland. The genesis of the much-loved business can be traced back to the early twentieth century when Hyman Coplan travelled from his native Lithuania to the Emerald Isle where, along with his new wife, Harriot McCarthy, he opened a clothing workshop on Capel Street in 1908.

Thanks to their son, Louis, in 1933, this venture expanded, adopting a name that, to this day, is synonymous with quality, style and elegance: Louis Copeland & Sons.

Over the decades, high-profile names such as Pierce Brosnan, Richard Harris, Dan Ackroyd, Bill Clinton, Ronald Regan and Conor McGregor have all been suited and booted by the family-run business. Currently overseen by Louis’ sons – another Louis and Adrian – it employs north of 70 people and, simply put, is deemed nothing short of a national 18 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

institution, boasting five stores between Dublin and Galway – and that’s saying nothing of their state-of-the-art online store.

“In the early 1960s, I started working in the tailor’s workshop, sweeping the floor, and learning what I could along the way,” Copeland recalls. Despite being in his late sixties, the award-winning entrepreneur is showing no signs of slowing down. “As you can imagine, a lot has changed since then.”

He continues: “Nowadays, I definitely think men are more stylish – in the advent of the internet and social media like Pinterest and Instagram, as well as television and magazines, men are much more aware of fashion and what looks good. They are tuned into celebrities and footballers – what they’re wearing.”

This, he suggests, is in stark contrast to the olden days.

“Back then, they didn’t have a clue,” he jokes. “A man would put on a suit and as long as it went over him, he was happy!

If it was the size of a tent, he didn’t care!

Today, men are much more aware about the fit of a suit.

“Men are more into their figures – going to the gym regularly – so now there’s a demand for sizes such as slim and super slim,” says Copeland - who is also a fan of the gym, which might go some way to explain his knows-no-bounds energy.

If men are more eager to dress to impress, when it comes down to spending habits, are they more willing to part with their hard-earned money today than in the times gone by?

“I don’t think men are as priceconscious as years ago,” says Copeland.

“Now they’re much more open to better quality and are willing to pay more; they are more educated in the field of fabrics, for example.”

He adds: “There’s one mistake that retailers often make – they cut the price, but that’s the wrong road. Customers

RETAILER INTERVIEW

Adrian and Louis Copeland

want quality – they know how it’s made.

They want a better fit. If you trade down, there will always be someone who will offer it for less.”

In addition to a shift in his customers’ spending patterns, Copeland believes there are numerous other changes evident in the current retail landscape in comparison with the past decade and beyond.

“The challenges in retail today are different to those in the 1990s,” he says candidly. “In the 90s, it was all about having great stock, great people and offering great service. Today, while all of that is still essential, it’s not enough.

Today, customers are looking for a unique, friction-less, omni-channel experience, that’s why we are focused on digital media and our website.

“The bigger stores are stronger than ever, meaning that independents need to have a distinct point of difference – you just can’t be run of the mill! Service is more important than ever.”

In fact, it’s this service that has allowed Louis Copeland & Sons to stave off the threat from the likes of fast-fashion retailers such as Penneys and Zara.

“We are in a different section of the

market to the fast-fashion retailers,” Copeland mentions. “While they focus on quick stock turnover, we focus on offering the best service and a premium product.

“We are always learning – from the fastfashion retailers, we learnt to adapt to the ever-quickening pace in retail, with quick stock turn and always focusing on new trends and adding them to the business quickly, to stay current.”

Copeland explains that the business sees itself as “curators”, travelling the world and buying from the very best suppliers, and describes the importance of collaborating with suppliers who are experts in their fields.

“The shirt factory that produces our shirts have been in business for over 40 years and only make shirts, they truly know how to make a shirt!” he explain. “So, it is a combination of unique stock and a unique experience in-store that set us apart.”

Speaking of manufacturing their own wares, 60 percent of Louis Copeland & Sons’ stock is now their own brand.

Over the past 10 years, they have been developing various collections with some of the leading manufacturers in Italy.

Copeland reports: “There are a lot of brands in the market who are going on their name but aren’t necessarily good quality or a good price. We manufacture our own suits and are involved in all aspects of the process.”

Elsewhere, their main brand would be Canali, who, according to Copeland are “great people and a family business.

We’ve had fantastic success with them for over 30 years.”

In terms of trade fairs, they go to Pitti in Florence, which, Copelands tell us, “is, by far, our favourite show for premium menswear. We meet our suppliers, look

for new trends as well as gathering ideas for our own Louis Copeland collection.”

If ever there was a person wellpositioned to advise the men of Ireland on the one must-have staple for every wardrobe, it’s Copeland.

“For me, the Swiss Army Knife of fashion is the plain navy suit – it should be in every man’s wardrobe!”

Looking ahead, Copeland’s thoughts on the future for the independent retail industry are, as you’d imagine, insightful but also come with a measure of caution.

“Independent retailing is becoming increasingly difficult when you’re competing with big non-indigenous companies with lots of resources,” he warns. “We need to be individual and show our personality.”

More personally, he adds: “We [will continue] to take the time to curate a really excellent collection each season and offer a unique experience and range to our customers and continue to offer excellent service.”

Having enjoyed so much success over the decades, it us understandable that Copeland struggles to name a single highlight. Eventually, he decides on winning Retailer of the Year in London exactly 20 years ago in 1998.

“It was a great prize - and an honour to be recognised in the UK. Also, surviving 10 years of recession – that’s definitely a highlight! To survive, you have to be big on service.”

When probed about the most important lesson learned in his years involved in the rag trade, Copeland’s response is short but, like one of the business’ mostfamous admirers - a certain MMA fighter - it packs a punch.

“The customer is king, never forget that.”

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 19

TRADE SHOW PREVIEWS

SHOWTALK PANORAMA BERLIN PROMISES TO BE MORE THAN JUST A TRADE FAIR

For the people who run Panorama Berlin, organising the kick-off event for a successful new season is a big responsibility and takes a lot of motivation.

“We see ourselves as drivers of innovation and as a window onto new trends,” Jörg Wichmann, the CEO of Panorama Berlin, reported. “Using a solutions-oriented approach, we focus on exciting topics. Our goal is to be more forward-thinking and to set new impulses.”

Wichmann and his team convened as a think tank and examined the trade-show business, the retail market and consumers while analysing the fundamental changes in these areas.

“Traditional trade show concepts are losing their appeal,” Jörg Wichmann added. “We’re dealing with an audience that needs trade shows but doesn’t love them anymore. The future brings challenges which will clearly change the industry; this is why we need new approaches and new concepts.”

The result - a completely revised concept for Panorama Berlin, which will run from 15 – 17 January 2019 under the motto, Panorama Expedition - all in an Arctic-inspired setting. The shift will be apparent in the 7 halls that are being re-conceptualised. The aim is to present relevant brands and straightforward messages. With clearer brand presentations, trend capsules and limited editions that are exclusive to Berlin, fashion will be showcased in an exciting lifestyle context.

According to organisers, Panorama Berlin enjoys “a dialogue with the community on a 24/7 basis, 360 days a year”. This, they say, sums up Panorama Berlin’s new communications concept and clearly sets it apart from other trade fairs that only offer a market overview twice a year. It means that Panorama Berlin will run its own online magazine covering the full range of products in the fashion and

20 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

lifestyle worlds. This makes Panorama Berlin a trend hub that features a range of topics – all in addition to its regular trade fair activities.

What’s more, Panorama Berlin will increase its social media presence and send B2B newsletters throughout the year on a variety of topics and present solutions, innovative ideas and exciting content.

Jörg Wichmann explained: “We are looking at things from the consumer’s point of view and incorporating the new trends into the design. Things have changed from the way they were a few years ago.

Today, events and entertainment have a completely different status in the fashion community. Consumers are interested in emotions, in experiences when they go shopping.”

Panorama Berlin plans to intensely incorporate this development into its next edition, which will have entertainment, infotainment and matchmaking/community as its three pillars that form its new core.

Hall One will include both established brands and new collection concepts with great growth potential. Hall Two will present menswear trends from formal to minimalist.

In Hall Three, the womenswear will range from daywear to athleisure and glamour.

Elsewhere, the exhibitors in Hall Four are set to offer looks for individuals, ranging from outerwear to sports, while in Hall Seven, cooperation partner XOOMwill present a relevant portfolio of green fashion brands.

A hall dedicated to ‘infotainment’ and offering opportunities to turn POS into a POX will be available in Hall five, and will be named Retail Solutions. Hall Six, meanwhile, will focus on showcases, food and sports, art and music, activity and incentives.

“We really drive home the festival theme,” promises Jörg Wichmann. “The retailer has more ‘A-ha’ moments and is filled with ideas to implement in his own business with customers. For brands that stage their customers’ lifestyles at the fair, it’s crucial for them to make sure that their image matches that of their customers.”

He added: “Here’s the action and this is the stage for brands and entertainment that target the street, sports and active audiences. All implemented authentically and highly emotionally.”

MODA GENT MOVES TO PURE LONDON

Pure London, the largest festival of fashion in London, announced that the menswear section of Moda, Moda Gent, will re-locate to Pure London and join the Pure Man line-up for the February 2019 show.

The move comes following the sale of Pure London to the ITE Group and aims to present a stronger menswear offering in London and continue Pure London’s long-term strategy to create a unified Festival of Fashion delivering collaborative solutions to meet buyer’s needs across all sectors.

Since its launch in 2016, Pure Man has grown rapidly and, now featuring its own entrance, showcases over 100 new and existing menswear brands offering classic to cutting-edge menswear, sportswear and accessories.

Adam Gough, Head of Menswear at Pure London, revealed: “We are excited to welcome Moda Gent to Pure Man from next season. With the menswear market projected to grow by 30 per cent to £15bn by 2021, the relocation of Moda Gent will give buyers more choice and a platform to discover mid to high-end menswear brands, emerging designers, trend-led designs, backto-basics essentials, accessories and footwear all under one roof.”

Moda Gent Event Director, Silvia Collins said: “We’ve enjoyed huge success with menswear at Moda over the years, but as the market changes so do the demands of our brands. New business is at the top of everyone’s agenda at the moment and exhibitors have been asking us for an event in London for some time.

“With Pure Man now part of the ITE portfolio this is finally possible, with the show offering menswear brands access to a fresh audience of both domestic and international buyers.”

The next Pure London takes place at London Olympia between 10-12 February, 2019.

PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

TRADE SHOW PREVIEWS

EXPEDITION 15—17 JANUARY 2019

FASHION | LIFESTYLE | ENTERTAINMENT | COMMUNITY MENSWEAR in Ireland | 21

RETAILER INTERVIEW

BETTER

BY DESIGN Here, Matinuque’s designers Jan and Lotte share an insight into the brand and the design process.

What is the hallmark of Matinique?

Matinique is a great brand with a broad appeal and a strong core with focus on consistency.

The essence of mixing formal and casual elements leaves a lot of room for new developments and seasonal interpretations while still staying true to the brand. Quality and comfort are paramount, as well as investigating new silhouettes, and innovative performances in fabrics and details. We are constantly developing and adding new layers.

22 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

ONE OF THE BEST-SELLING BRANDS IN IRELAND IN THE 80s AND 90s, MATINQUE HAS BEEN RELAUNCHED ON THE IRISH MARKET BY GREY LAKE AGENCIES.

Where do you travel to get your inspiration?

We travel all over the world - London, Paris, Milan, Shanghai, New York - but we always return to Tokyo for the vibrant creative mix of new and old, techni­cal and broken in.

Often inspiration comes from little things in your daily life or from big new developments in production techniques.

Inspiration is everywhere.

Has anything changed fundamentally in how you work with the collections now versus 10 years ago?

Over the last decade, the design process has become more integrated with other areas within the organisation. We work

very closely with sales, marketing, and production to achieve the ultimate collection for the brand and our customers.

The pace is quicker now than it was 10 years ago. However, there is a strong trend towards integrating sustainable methods in the development and production process.

On that note, we also have a strong focus on developing garments that will last in both quality and design.

We welcome our new agent

GREY LAKE AGENCIES LTD.

FOR APPOINTMENTS PLEASE CONTACT JAMES CONWAY: James@greylakeagencies.com / Phone: 00353894897703 / Dublin showroom Grey Lake Aqencies Ltd / Unit 12A, Fashion City Ballymount, IE-CO Dublin, Ireland MATINIQUE-SALES@DKCOMPANY.COM / WWW.MATINIQUE.COM

RETAILER INTERVIEW INTERVIEW

CUTTING A FINE FIGURE TO MARK OUR LANDMARK ANNIVERSARY, MENSWEAR IS CHATTING TO SOME OF THE COUNTRY’S LEADING RETAILERS WHO HAVE ENDURED THE TEST OF TIME SUCH AS TONY FITZGERALD, OWNER OF FITZGERALD MENSWEAR - A CLOTHING EMPORIUM PEPPERED ACROSS THE SOUTH OF THE COUNTRY It’s hard to meet someone in the menswear retail sector as well-known as Tony Fitzgerald, the owner of Fitzgerald Menswear. Originally founded by his late father in 1962, today, the portfolio has impressively grown. In addition to the main chandelier-adorned store in the centre of Waterford, the family-run business also has a strong presence in 24 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

other towns such as Wexford, Clonmel and Dungarvan. Aside from Fitzgerald Menswear, the names over these doors include Heroes and Evolution.

Despite decades kitting out the men of Munster and Leinster, Fitzgerald shows absolutely no signs of slowing down. He humbly describes himself as a “simple suit-and-tie man”, and when Menswear

telephones for a chat, he is in the middle of a buying session with an agent and promises to call us back as soon as he is finished. However, before hanging up, the businessman can’t resist discussing his views about the need for a proper men’s trade show in Dublin - possibly inspired by his current task of selecting new collections for the upcoming seasons.

“There are huge costs involved in transferring from Birmingham to London,” he says. “Surely Dublin should be the venue, considering that people travel from all ends of Europe to Florence in January a show that you really cannot purchase at.

I have received positive vibes from agents and companies in the UK on this as an international show.”

As he speaks, his voice is full of youthful enthusiasm, easily mistaken for someone starting out in the industry. When it comes to Fitzgerald, that old cliché about age being just a number certainly has merit.

Not wanting to get on the wrong side of the fashion agent, we promise to continue the conversation when Fitzgerald’s schedule is less hectic - although, by the sound of things, free time is certainly not something you’d associate with this tireless fellow, who, to this day, continues to be active in many aspects of the dayto-day running of the business.

“My father originally opened the store in 1962 and it has continued to be a success ever since,” he proudly reveals. “I first joined the business when I was 16.”

Over the course of more than half a century, Fitzgerald feels that the retail industry in Ireland is drastically different from earlier decades - particularly from the nineties when Menswear In Ireland was first published.

“So much has changed since the 60S, and even since the 90S,” he continues.

“There was an amazing ability to make a profit pre-Celtic Tiger but, today, the mark-up is precarious, and I attribute that to excessive sale times and special offers, which cuts out the opportunity to make a profit. I’ve seen the best of quality menswear that is not seasonal being sold off - barely making cost and VAT.” With defiance clearly evident in his voice, he adds: “We don’t do special offers throughout the year, and we are moving away from seasonal sales - we didn’t go into sale this summer, for example. To put it bluntly, we aren’t going to fight for that particular market - there’s simply no point. There’s also the other extreme - the upper-end suit market, which is more niche. That’s not us either.”

RETAILER INTERVIEW

A fertile source of employment for the south of the country, Fitzgerald Menswear caters not just for the casual market but has also carved out an award-winning reputation thanks to their formalwear offering, including the all-important wedding market.

Elsewhere, in terms of stock, a glance at their impressive website and social media pages reveals a catalogue of well-known labels including Ted Baker, Lacoste, CasaModa, Venti, Barbour, Magee, Herbie Frogg, Gant, Michael Kors and Fynch Hatton, as well as footwear brands such as Goodwin Smith, Magnanni and Lloyd & Pryce. With additional services such as suit hire and tailoring, it’s safe to say there’s a little something for everyone.

“Location is always key,” Fitzgerald asserts. “We have always positioned ourselves close to stores like Pennys, which has increased our foot-fall.”

While his animated tone suggests that he is content with the current performances of his business, it soon becomes apparent that Fitzgerald continues to have as much interest in growing and strengthening his business today as he did when he was a youngster.

Now, however, he is ably supported by the next generation of the family thanks to his daughter, Aoife, who gave up a career in aviation to join him.

“She is keen to continue the business with a very supportive staff in the stores, Heroes and Evolution,” he mentions.

A second daughter, Heather, looks after the merchandising and the window

displays which, according to Fitzgerald, are high-street standard and have received international awards. The proud and loving father also remembers his son, Bryan, who sadly passed away at a young age.

Commenting on the industry, Fitzgerald uses the word “precarious”- particularly in today’s ever-evolving landscape.

“You have to live it, love it and dream it.

You always have to be watching, seeing, studying and paying attention to every single detail - not just the clothes on the railings but the store itself. The décor, the layout, the staff. Service is something that all retailers discuss but it’s now a given as customers are more demanding. “[Now that we’re competing with fastfashion and internet shopping], service is more important than ever. It’s just something that you can’t take for granted.

Just because someone has been coming into your store for 20 years doesn’t mean that they are going to keep coming back.

You need to be constantly giving them new reasons to return.”

A word that crops up time and time again in interviews with retailers is ‘trust’ - and over the course of our conversation

with Fitzgerald, it is used more than once.

“When men are dressing for a big occasion or are preparing to spend a lot of money, they need to be able to trust you.”

Looking ahead at the future, Fitzgerald is preparing to tread carefully – not only on account of Brexit, which he feels isn’t properly understood by the British government yet but, also, because of the rise in online shopping.

“I do have concerns for all our futures with online trading,” he reveals. “I see the young fashion trade being hit enormously.

This showed itself in the snow storm earlier in the year. [We lost] seven days trading [but] the young people purchased online - this put manners on our ability to get a mark-up.”

Having celebrated numerous expansions, milestones and, like Menswear, landmark anniversaries, Fitzgerald ends our exchange with some unexpected advice.

“Groucho Marx, the comedian once said: the secret of successful business is honesty and integrity and if you can convince the customer opposite you that you’ve got that going for you – you have it.”

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 25

NOS COLLECTIONS

Never Out of Stock (NOS) has become a buzzword in recent seasons, with all the major players offering a comprehensive NOS collection for retailers to call upon at short notice.

BRAX BRAX’s NOS offer continuously grows season after season, resulting in comprehensive stock range for the contemporary man.

All BRAX garments are created using exclusive fabrics and innovative production methods to ensure unrivalled comfort and a perfect fit.

The yearly NOS highlights include the classic Masterpice denim named COOPER, the modern fit 5-pocket denim CHUCK, with the Hi-Flex function for maximum flexibilty in every situation, and the smart chino denim EVEREST, which has a relaxed, casual look.

All denims contain a balanced ring structure with slight crosshatch effects, different modern washes and colours from regular indigo to perma black.

The seasonal NOS services include a line of modern fit chinos and 5-pocket pants in a vast selection of colours and an impressive wool-mix. Also included are a range of polo shirts, V-neck sweaters, zipper jackets and belts, in assorted seasonal colours.

26 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

NEVER OUT OF STOCK BRAX NOS

FULL RANGE OF CHINOS AVAILABLE IN A SELECTION OF COLOURS EX STOCK MENSWEAR in Ireland | 27

Contact: Derek Eakin Ltd, Cootehill, Co Cavan, Tel: 00 353 49555 2258 Mobile 087 6992865 E: jony@derekeakin.com

NEVER OUT OF STOCK DOUGLAS & GRAHAME Douglas & Grahame’s stock service facility offers a high-quality range of menswear, boyswear and school uniforms in a variety of fits from their award-winning portfolio of brands, including Remus Uomo, Douglas, Daniel Grahame, Wellington and 1880 CLUB. With a dedicated 140,000 sg ft headquarters in Northern Ireland, which includes a dedicated global logistics centre, Douglas & Grahame is widely considered to have the most reliable stock support service in Ireland. The company also prides itself on offering even greater flexibility and service to its customers with the development of a 24/7 trade customer support website, allowing all customers to check stock availability for any product at any time and place orders when it is convenient for them.

As well as allowing users to submit replenishment orders online, customers can browse for new products and even look for products in specific sizes with the site’s new “Size Search” facility. This new functionality allows users to satisfy any customer order, effectively creating an easy to use ‘infinite aisle’ in their shops.

The site also offers downloadable marketing resources such as lifestyle and ecommerce imagery in one easy to use service. Existing customers can register for an account online at wholesale. douglasandgrahame.com​ 28 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

NEVER OUT OF STOCK OLYMP Olymp trade partners benefit from an extensive Never-Out-of-Stock (NOS) programme, which permanently holds several hundred thousand items of shirts ready for dispatch at the central warehouse in Bietigheim-Bissingen/Germany, enabling immediate further consignment of the current collection.

Available through R.E. Flanagan & Sons in Clonshaugh, Dublin 17, the NOS range collections include the Luxor range of 100% cotton, non-iron, wrinkle-free business shirts; the pure cotton Tendez range of business shirts; the slim-fit Level Five range; and the super-slim No. Six range. Also included is a comprehensive range of pure silk ties and an exceptionally high-quality knitwear collection, which includes jumpers, slipovers, cardigans and waistcoats for business.

The total assortment of merchandise in storage ranges from several shirt lines, numerous types of fabric, variations in style and collar shapes, various different arm lengths, 17 sizes and special sizes (from collar size 36 to 54 cm or XS to 6XL respectively), as well as knitwear, T-shirts and tank tops, ties, bow ties and pocket squares in addition.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 29

COLLECTION REPORTS

SEA BARRIER A full range of Sea Barrier Italian chinos ex-stock is available from Derek Eakin Ltd. with a next day delivery.

The high-quality trousers are available in a comprehensive range of sizes and colours, including seven different coloured plain fabrics, 3 micro-printed fabrics and two check fabrics.

All styles offer attractive price points with a good mark-up to retailers.

All chinos in the Sea Barrier collection are made using stretch fabrics in a modern fit. The trousers are available in a full rage of sizes from 30’-46” waist, and in leg lengths of 30”, 32” and 34”.

Prices start from €23.50, giving the opportunity for the retailer to make a minimum of a 3 mark-up.

The current stock range is available to view with Jonathan Eakin of Derek Eakin Ltd.

The 70 Waterloo Road team in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 is now offering four options in Lambretta three-piece mix-andmatch suits plus two tuxedo and dinner wear options, ensuring a 24-hour turnaround on all NOS orders.

A wide range of sizes is available, ranging from 34 to 52 in regular, short and long.

Also available is a comprehensive seasonal stock support on selected lines, all of which can be viewed online at www.70waterloo.com The NOS collection is available to view with Ash Stephenson at 70 Waterloo Road.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 31

NEVER OUT OF STOCK

LAMBRETTA

RETAILER INTERVIEW when I started, so I had to learn about everything from material selection right through to invoicing.

I do everything now from design, packaging right through to sales. I have a team that looks after the new POPE shoe collection because it is their area of expertise, and they are brilliant. But I am hands-on in everything, and I’m learning more about the trade every day.

Brent Pope

What’s the hardest part of the process?

TAKING ON THE BIG BOYS RUGBY TELEVISION ANALYST, JOURNALIST, CHARITY WORKER, CHILDREN‘S BOOK AUTHOR, AND AFTER DINNER SPEAKER BRENT POPE ADDED ANOTHER STRING TO HIS ALREADY IMPRESSIVE BOW WHEN HE LAUNCHED HIS EPONYMOUS RANGE OF MEN’S SHIRTS (2013) AND SHOES IN 2017. HERE, THE NEW ZEALANDER TALK TO MENSWEAR ABOUT THE BUSINESS’ ORIGINS, ITS GROWTH AND THE STRUGGLES HE ENCOUNTERED ALONG THE WAY Congratulations on the success of POPE shirts and shoes, Brent. How did the launch of your collection come about?

I guess it always on the cards for me.

Ever since I was a teenager, I have always loved clothes - for me, it gave me more self-confidence in how I looked, because, like a lot of teenagers, I always struggled with my appearance: I felt that if I dressed well, then I could make the best of myself.

I still believe that now. Whenever I go out, I guess you could say I’m overdressed rather than under-dressed; clothes show more about a person than you think.

Over the years, I was always wearing top brands on the television, and would often be asked by viewers where they could buy a particular item I had worn.

And, then, one day I thought to myself: why am I promoting all these other brands, why can’t I do this myself? I know fashion, and I believe I have a good eye for style, so I created POPE Shirts in 2013, which became a huge success.

32 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Did the reaction to your shirts collection inspire your move into footwear?

Well, four years after creating POPE Shirts, I thought about where to go next.

My father had always taught me how good shoes are the most important thing in a man’s wardrobe – they show that he takes pride in himself, if they are stylish and polished.

Also, I’ve loved the feel and look of new shoes, even little things like the string bag they would come in, so I started to design my own shoe collection - shoes that would complement what my POPE brand which is all about: style, comfort and classic looks.

What difficulties or obstacles did you encounter when you started out with the collections?

Plenty! I was told by lots of people not to do it, that it was too risky. But I have been told that all my life about a lot of things, so that just spurred me on to succeed.

I knew nothing about the rag trade

The hardest thing, I guess, is marketing and keeping the brand alive; I don’t have the budgets of big brands to drape a building or advertise on television, but in some regards I can offer more on quality, if that makes sense.

I have to find creative ways of looking at marketing – for example, my recent idea of combining my shirts and shoes with street magic.

Who is your target market?

Older men in Ireland are getting far more stylish nowadays, and my designs are classics with a timeless elegance. I take a lot from Italian design- quality, crisp tailored shirts and quality classic shoes like brogues or Chelsea boots.

Last season one of my biggest sellers was a blue suede boot. This year it might be the leather loafer that my customers go for.

But, within the whole range, there is a shoe style to suit any age and any occasion.

For the shirts, the target market is men aged from 35 up to 70 because, again, I keep the shirts simple, high-quality and classic.

The designs, whether they are shirts or shoes, also offer excellent value, too – prices are particularly competitive give the materials used. The shirts are manufactured in Turkey using high-quality, 100 per cent cotton materials from the top fashion houses in Europe, while the shoes are made from the finest leathers and suedes in Portugal.

What would you say is the USP of your collections?

I would like to think the fit in both shirts and the shoes. For the shirts, I spent a year and a half making sure that the fit was perfect.

Men’s shapes are changing, as, indeed, are the size of their feet. My shirts are designed to fit a huge range of body types, from the small, slim customer to someone that is 6ft 5” tall with very long.

Particular attention has been paid to the cuffs and the collars, which are beautiful and can be turned up.

The attention to detail on the footwear

RETAILER INTERVIEW collection is just as important. The shoes are super-comfortable and are available in sizes up to 47. It’s vital that they feel good as well as look great, so they are made using soft leather, which makes for a really comfortable fit.

At this stage, I get hundreds of people asking where they can get great shoes up to size 15, so I’m looking at going even bigger in terms of what I offer in the way of stylish shoe in large sizes.

Where are the designs sold?

The shirts and shoes are sold nationwide and in the best retail outlets in the country. I have about 50 outlets for the shirts, while the shoes are stocked in over 100 stores across Ireland. They have been a huge success with repeat customers and new clients coming on-board every year.

How do you remain competitive when trading in the market against international brands?

Loyalty is key. I know that the quality of my range is comparable to any brand in the same price range, if not better.

I hunt down the very best materials, leathers, etc. that I can get. It’s important to me that the POPE brand represents really good value for money. And it seems to be working: the feedback is that the price point is excellent, and the number of loyal customers is expanding.

I have been approached by some of the biggest stores in the world to take the brand, but I want to keep things Irish at this stage; although I may roll out some shoe and shirts in New Zealand next season.

What have been the stand-out successes in the collections to date?

In the shirts, the classics always work well: the crisp whites, the light pinks, the blues, etc. You can never go wrong with those colours!

In the shoes, the classic leather brogues and the causals have been the best-sellers so far.

The suede boots and burgundy brogues, for example, went down a treat last season. This season, the causal collection and leather loafers look winners.

Trend are constantly changing, though, so every year I travel to New York for fashion week so that I know what the best-dressed men are wearing.

What’s next in the pipeline for you?

To produce beautiful shoes up to, say, size 15. I have noticed that young men have bigger feet nowadays. A lot of GAA and rugby players come up to me all the time and tell me how they love the show styles but can’t wear them, as they’re a size 13 or 14. I’m already covering up to size 47 in some of the popular shoes, but expanding to offer even larger sizes is something that I am looking at.

Clothes-wise, I plan to offer more party style shirts to go with the classics: retro T-shirts, POPE coats and blazers and a surf shirt brand.

I work a lot in the mental health space and would like to somehow combine that in my brand. I’m just not sure how to do it yet - but I will find a way!

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MENSWEAR in Ireland | 33

RETAILER INTERVIEW

THE NAME’S BOND MENSWEAR IS CONSTANTLY FINDING INSPIRATION FROM ENTREPRENEURS THE COUNTRY OVER - MEN AND WOMEN WHOSE DETERMINATION AND DRIVE ALLOWS THEM TO OVERCOME OBSTACLES AND CHALLENGES AND EMERGE TRIUMPHANT IN THE NOTORIOUSLY VOLATILE RETAIL SECTOR. BRENDAN MOLONEY, THE NEW OWNER OF FORMALWEAR RENTAL COMPANY, BOND BROTHERS, IS ONE SUCH EXAMPLE For those who haven’t yet had the pleasure of meeting him, Brendan Moloney’s sheer enthusiasm for life and singular vision for success is so convincing and rousing, he renders the listener with goose-bumps.

“It’s easy to be enthusiastic when you love what you do,” he reveals to Menswear over the phone, his voice so animated, it could be used in a cartoon.

“I am always getting excited by the work, by the customers, by the happiness they get from being well dressed on a special occasion. I am extremely driven as a person; I always have been.”

By work, Moloney is referring to Bond Brothers, the much-loved formalwear company based in the affluent south Dublin suburb of Goatstown. For several years, the enterprise has prided itself on providing a super customer service together with a impressive collection of both classical and modern formalwear.

In terms of their wares, customers are treated to garments that are rich in colour, lavish in texture and cutting-edge style, all of which is guaranteed to produce a 34 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

stylish ensemble.

Originally working in construction, Moloney explains that he quickly tired of the challenging conditions of being outdoors, and in 2004, he decided to change lanes and began working with Bond Brothers.

“I have always been interested in men’s clothing and fashion. I originally worked in construction, fitting windows, but I was never into the messy and dirty side of it the soaking wet! I wanted a change. Back then, things in Ireland were booming, so it was a good time to take a risk.”

The store was then owned by Colm O’Rourke, and Moloney started out as a shop assistant. But, in no time, he was making his presence felt and when the business was sold to Gavin Divilly in 2011, Moloney ascended the proverbial ladder and was promoted to General Manager.

Embracing the new role with gusto, he brought about numerous changes and improvements - notably the suits they stocked. But, this wasn’t enough for the ambitious Dubliner.

“I always knew that I would own the

store one day - I wanted to have my own shop and I knew I’d get there eventually,” he recalls. “I wanted to do it for myself - to be honest, I was sick of working for others. I got some encouragement [from friends and family] and the right time came and I made Gavin an offer.”

When we speak to him, Moloney’s status as the store’s new owner is just a month old, but having acquired so much experience over the past 14 years, the transition is proving seamless.

“Everything is going great so far.

Owning the store is, by far, the highlight of my career,” Moloney says. “To be honest, it’s taken me a couple of weeks to get my head around working for myself - not having to answer to others, paying bills myself, looking after invoices - but, it’s fantastic, if a little stressful initially!”

Seeing as he was been so involved in the growth of the original business over the years, Moloney decided to keep the original name. And, if ever there was a time to invest in the world of men’s formalwear, it’s now seeing as the sector is currently thriving - a fact that certainly

RETAILER INTERVIEW isn’t lost on Moloney.

“For the past two or three years, guys have become so much more trendy and stylish. They want to look well and are prepared to invest the time,” he says.

“You could call it the ‘Conor McGregor effect’ - young guys are looking after themselves. Teens, young guys are going to the gym, eating healthier than years ago.

As a result, today, the shape and fit of the suit is a big aspect for them and a lot of guys want them really tight - although there is a fine line between being tight and being too small, I keep warning them!”

Bond Brothers specialises in dressing grooms-to-be and their wedding parties.

Moloney explains that the shop’s mission is to create timeless, classic looks and not something that will date in a few years.

“That makes us different to retail. There is fantastic men’s fashion out there at the moment - boat shoes with tassels and no socks, for example - but these styles come and go. We stick to our original goal, which is to create an outfit that will look great in photographs in years to come.”

In addition to a strong south Dublin clientele, customers come from all over the country; Bond Brothers even sends kilts to wedding parties in counties such as Cork and Galway - and with Ascot season fast approaching, they are busy dressing men from Meath and Kildare.

In terms of stock, the main brand sold is Wilvorst, although Moloney his team collaborate with agencies and visit various trade fairs, such as bridal shows in Harrowgate, to ensure that they are constantly discovering new styles and flourishes.

Moloney concedes that their suits are a little more expensive than rival businesses - around €165 per groom - but he reports that customers are happy to pay the additional money on account of the excellent quality they receive.

“We are about €20 or €30 dearer than some of our competitors but everyone who comes in to us will book with us.

Ninety per cent of our rental suits are made from pure, new-fine wool sourced in Italy by our main suppliers,” says Moloney.

“The bride-to-be is very involved in the process - we recommend that she comes in to help make the decisions. When you have a large group of men, there will naturally be lots of opinions so we advise the bride-to-be to get her say in first, which really helps with the overall process.”

While the importance of customer service and high-quality garments cannot be over-stated, the 37-year-old reports

Brendan Moloney

that one of the keys to Bond Brothers’ success comes from the candid honesty they offer.

“We never try to sell something for the sake of selling it,” Moloney mentions.

“Aside from the quality suits, the reason we experience such strong word-ofmouth is down to the service we give. Our customers trust us and leave confident that they look good.

“In this business, there are too many guys racing to the bottom. They are compromising on good quality just so they can sell suits for €120. As a country, we are letting ourselves down - renting cheap suits.”

Moloney reveals their suits would usually last a six-month season before selling them “either to the trade or to the general public. If there is any sign of wearand-tear, they’re gone.”

In addition to weddings and races, Bond Brothers are busy dressing men for corporate events such as charity balls, and they also recently secured a contract with a leading 5-star hotel, kitting out staff members - from concierges to bellboys and everyone in between.

Moloney is acutely aware of the importance of social media and is currently developing their various channels.

“I’m taking it all up a notch at the moment. The likes of Instagram and Facebook play such a big part in today’s world. We are aiming to upload more images - particularly photos of real grooms wearing our suits. Nothing quite beats a professional photograph of a bride and groom!”

As to the future. Moloney reveals that he has plenty of plans afoot including expanding the business in Dublin and in different counties. He is also in the middle of looking at new ranges - and while he doesn’t want to give too much away, he lets it slips that he is currently collaborating with some of Europe’s top fashion houses to develop his own range. Where does he find the energy and inspiration, one wonders?

Well, it turns out that Moloney is constantly finding inspiration from his customers - listening to their stories and learning about their lives - both personal and professional.

“Lots of the guys we dress are doing really well for themselves. I get excited speaking to them and learning from them.

One thing I’ve learned is that the business world is tough for everyone but I’m determined to make it happen.”

Menswear does not doubt this for a moment.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 35

INDUSTRY SERVICES INFORMATION

CARRIER BAGS

ACCESSORIES

NEXT ISSUE November / December 2018 Our next issue will focus on Trade Shows for the early part of 2019 - where to go to view the new A/W 2019 collections.

In our next issue we will also feature the early A/W collections for next year with a round up of Christmas Packs and Gift Sets + Promotional POS material for SALES - the post-Christmas sell-off.

Copy Date

16 November, 2018 For advertising contact Avril Smith on avril@futuramagazine.ie

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School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets, Softshells, Embroidery, Scarves and Ties MENS KNITWEAR. Year round full stock service.

AGENTS: SAMMY FARRAR 01 671 5199 EAST/SOUTH ALBERT SHERLOCK 087 202 7518 WEST/NW JEFF FARRAR 01 671 5199 N EAST Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare.

T:(045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie

004420 8417 0660

E: sales@propress.co.uk www.propress.co.uk

www.1880club.com Douglas & Grahame 048 - 9332 7777

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 29 37