Menswear in Ireland January 2017

JANUARY 2017 MENSWEAR IN IRELAND

JAN 2017

THE YEAR THAT WAS

RETAILERS’ REFLECTIONS ON TRADING IN 2016

RAZOR SHARP

HOW SUITS ARE SHAPING UP FOR AW17

SHIRT STORIES

TRENDS IN AW17 SHIRTING

SHOWTALK

THE NEED-TO-KNOW FOR THE KEY TRADE SHOWS

S E E S KO PES MENSWEAR AT M O DA 2 0 17 A W 17 C O L L E C T I O N

1 9 T H - 2 1S T FEB RUARY NEC BIRMINGHAM

STAN D N3 0

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CONTENTS

WELCOME A very warm welcome and a Happy New Year!

As 2017 begins, the opportunities and possibilities are, seemingly, endless.

How the following 12 months will pan out remains to be seen, obviously; but while it’s crucial to look forward, it’s often helpful to look back and reflect.

Reflection is the theme of one of our main features this issue. In ‘The Year That Was’, we’ve enrolled some of the country’s leading retailers to share their views, verdicts and experiences of 2016. From the good to the bad, the expected to the unexpected, the results, which can be found on P.26, are as interesting as they are informative.

Turning in the other direction to look forward, the AW17/18 season is our fashion focus for both this and our February issue. Cue a two-part preview of the leading men’s collections along with a series of trend reports taking in everything from denim and outerwear to, in this issue, suits and shirts.

Indicative of the year’s nascent trade show season, we’ve put together a comprehensive Showtalk section on P.16-17 to give you the need-to-know on the main shows, both at home and abroad.

Elsewhere, we catch up with two of the stalwarts of the Irish fashion industry. Neville Moore of Ulster Stores, the hugely successful parent company of a collection of independent department stores in the UK and Ireland, talks about his business’ past, present and exciting future. On P.23, meanwhile, Willie Heaton – who is now in his 40th year in the fashion industry – gives us an insight to his life outside the workplace.

We’re back again next month when we’ll be concluding our look at AW17/18, and will be focusing on denim and casualwear.

Wishing you all the very best for the year ahead.

Alexander Fitzgerald, Editor mail@skypublishing.ie

COVER IMAGE: Carl Gross Black Line.

CONTENTS 4 NEWS

The latest from the domestic and international fashion sectors

16 SHOWTALK

Guide to the international trade shows

18 MOORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

Interview with Neville Moore of Moores of Coleraine

20 RAZOR SHARP

How suits are shaping up for AW17

23 THE OTHER SIDE OF

Willie Heaton’s life and loves beyond the 9-5

24 SHIRT STORIES

SEE US ON

26 2016: THE YEAR THAT WAS

Menswear in Ireland is produced five times annually. If you would like to receive our next issue, drop us a line on a postcard with your details to: Menswear in Ireland, Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main Street, Rathfarnham, Ireland.

Telephone: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 Email: mail@skypublishing.ie Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre Sales & Marketing Manager: Avril Smith Editor: Alexander Fitzgerald Assistant Editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue Printers: Swift Print Solutions. © All editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publishers, Sky Publishing 2017.

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The key trends in AW17 shirting

Retailers’ experiences of trading over the past 12 months

28 IT’S A WRAP

Cover up in style with AW17’s coats

30 STYLE FILE

Previews of the leading AW17 men’s collections

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 2

CONTACT AND SALES HEADOFFICE GERMANY Venti | GutenbergstraÃ&#x;e 7 | D-26135 Oldenburg | FON +49 (0) 441 2066-0 | www.venti.com Threadweave Ltd | John & Christian Lawlor | FON +353 (0) 1 4569333 | john@threadweave.com

NEWS

NEWS

Under Armour is one of a number of high-profile brands rumoured to be looking to open a city centre store

DUBLIN CITY CENTRE SET TO WELCOME A HOST OF TOP BRANDS RETAILERS USE CHRISTMAS SALES TO RECOUP LOSSES The Christmas sales threw up various bargains in winter clothing, as retailers sought to recoup some of their losses following unseasonably mild winter conditions which resulted in significant unsold stock.

Prior to the sales, industry experts had suggested that say that the decline in preChristmas sales coupled the uncertainty of the UK leaving the EU, would give rise to dramatic price drops. Other forecasters estimated that a whopping €130m would be spent in Irish shops across the nation on St Stephen’s Day, which is on par with last year.

Consumer experts have confirmed that sales across clothing, electronics and fashion have dropped significantly on levels for 2015. This is due to both Brexit and the Black Friday/Cyber Monday phenomenon that picked up considerable traction in Ireland this year.

However, with this in mind, retailers are expected to drop their prices even further in order to recoup the heavy losses made so far in December.

4 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Fresh from welcoming H&M Group’s & Other Stories, Dublin’s premier retail thoroughfare, Grafton Street is set a number of high-profile additions over the coming months.

Several bluechip brands have reportedly toured Ireland recently on the lookout for suitable locations, while a number of others have deals in legals, including Dr Martens, which is understood to be taking the former Sisley store at 59 Grafton Street, and US lingerie mega-brand Victoria’s Secret soon to open in the former BT2 building.

Other retailers believed to be mulling over opening in the capital include Dragon’s Den’s Theo Paphitis’ underwear brand, Boux Avenue - which opened an outlet in Belfast’s Victoria Square last February and American fashion giant Guess, which previously traded on South Anne Street.

The city centre retail mix may also be expanded with the possible arrival of two leading sportswear companies. Having

already opened a highly successful outlet at Kildare Village, Under Armour is tipped to be looking for a city centre premises.

Adidas, meanwhile, is on the lookout for a flagship store with a view to opening in 2018. The German sportswear giant has been looking at possible locations on and off Grafton Street to sell its sportswear, casual wear and footwear.

While Grafton Street has traditionally been the preferred location for many big name brands entering the Irish market, lack of space and rapidly rising rents are proving a stumbling block.

According to a recent Knight Frank report, zone A rents on the street have risen by 25 per cent over the past year to €6,500 per square metre.

Occupiers who locate away from the main drag could be paying about 60 per cent of Grafton Street rents, according to Lisa McGrane, director of JLL retail agency. H&M and Zara are two prime examples of larger multiples who have chosen site further afield – both occupy a South King Street development where they are housed in 2,300 sq m and 2,800 sq m units respectively.

Retailers with smaller requirements have also been driving demand for primes sites off Grafton Street. Premium brands such as Joules and, more recently, Loake have opened on nearby Wicklow Street.

NEW APPOINTMENT AT TALMARC John Keogh has been appointed as Brand Development Manager for Talmarc Clothing.

Based in Blanchardstown Corporate Park in Dublin, the company represents no fewer than ten companies, ranging from full lifestyle to suits, shirts, trousers, denims, leather and casual jackets.

Milestone is one of several brands represented by Talmarc Clothing

NEWS

ARNOTTS EXPANDS ITS BRAND OFFERING Twelve months after the Selfridges Group purchased Arnotts, the iconic Henry Street department store has been steadily expanding its offering with the addition of a new retail brands.

International best-selling beauty brands such as MAC and Charlotte Tilbury are key influencers when it comes to attracting in young customers to the historic store, which opened in 1843.

Factor in other new arrivals, including the NYX make-up brand and Kate Spade, the American accessories brand - whose €435 Candace satchel sold out in a matter of days - and it is understandable that Arnotts managing director Donald McDonald is confident about the store’s future.

“We wanted to get the mix right and we took time to understand what the

CUSTOMERS SCRUM FOR BOWE’S FOOTWEAR AND CLOTHING RANGES It seems that it is not just on the rugby pitch where Monaghan’s Tommy Bowe reigns supreme.

According to accounts recently filed by his company, the sporting star experienced profits of €421,902 for the year ending March 2016.

Recently, the Ulster player has enjoyed a lucrative deal with Co. Monaghan shoe firm, Buddha Brand, and latest figures reveal that Lloyd&Pryce - The Tommy Bowe Collection footwear for gents, ladies and children, delivered €2.6 million of the firm’s €9.3 million revenues in the year ending January 2015.

Additionally, the XV Kings - Tommy Bowe Designs clothing range for men accounted for a further €1.39m in revenues.

6 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

customer was looking for,” said Donald McDonald who is confident about the store’s future. “We have a very distinct proposal here at Arnotts and what we didn’t want to fill it with was whole loads of brands that the customer didn’t resonate with,” he added.

Online figures will be up “hugely on last year”, according to McDonald who confirmed a growth figure of 40 per cent this year. Meanwhile, on the bricks and mortar front, various changes will continue to take place throughout the 270,000 sq ft store.

“We have a whole lot of exciting plans for the next year and it involves moving departments around the store,” McDonald said.

The various changes were about “enhancing the customer experience and journey around the store”, he mentioned.

“We have a whole lot of exciting plans for the next 12 to 18 months and we will be working through those,” he added. “As we change the in-store environment, we’ll introduce the brands that our customers

COTSWOLD OUTDOORS OPENS IN THE CAPITAL Cotswold Outdoors, the popular active clothing and footwear company, arrived in Dublin just in time for Christmas.

Located on the central Trinity Street, the new store is a boon for hikers, climbers, runners, campers and travellers, who will now be able to avail of expert knowledge and experience to help make the most of the outdoors.

With over 70 stores across the UK, including two in Belfast, the popular chain first opened its doors in 1974 and was later named Retail Company of the Year by Go Outdoors in 2005, and subsequently voted Best Chain Retailer

by The Great Outdoors magazine for both 2012 and 2013. It currently employs 1,400 staff members.

are telling us they are looking for. It will be a constant evolution.”

Commenting on behalf of the Selfridges Group, managing director Paul Kelly said: “Arnotts is an iconic shopping destination.

The introduction of these new and exciting brands over the last year, together with the many new retail concepts in the pipeline, will ensure the success of this unique department store long into the future.”

GOOGLE SHOPPING ARRIVES IN IRELAND After years of waiting, Google Shopping has finally arrived in Ireland. Companies and digital marketers will now be able to feature dynamic product adverts that are shown in the search results pages.

Google Shopping is a retail platform that allows customers to compare and search for products in terms of their availability, location and price in Ireland and abroad. This will allow shoppers to find products quickly and easily, and will also enable businesses to attract more potential buyers.

Amongst the benefits for sellers are the increases in traffic to their website, a more visible online presence, and more efficient customer targeting.

NEWS

NEW GLOBAL ONLINE PLATFORM LAUNCHED FOR DESIGN AND CRAFT INDUSTRY The Design & Crafts Council of Ireland (DCCoI) has launched DesignIreland. ie - a new web platform dedicated to showcasing the work of Ireland’s leading designers and craftspeople.

DesignIreland.ie aims to provide customers the world over with inspiration, images and stories about talented Irish designers and their work. Visitors to the site can browse Irish products across three categories - Home & Gift, Fashion &

Accessories and Jewellery – and then link directly to purchase from maker websites or approved stockists.

Arnotts, the Kilkenny Group, Brown Thomas, Irish Design Shop, Makers & Brothers and Stonechat are amongst the Irish companies and stores involved, while international retailer include the likes of Heals, The New Craftsmen and Wolf & Badger in the UK, The Citizenry in the US and Stór in Tokyo. The website also lists where purchases can be made in-store.

Commenting on the launch of DesignIreland.ie, Karen Hennessy, Chief Executive of the Design & Crafts Council of Ireland, said: “This new site forms part of DCCoI’s strategic goal to increase awareness of Irish design and craft at home and abroad, capitalising on the growing international reputation of the sector in recent years.”

CONTINUING TREND FOR CHRISTMAS SALES TO COMMENCE EARLIER It appears that Christmas sales taking place after the big day are a thing of the past, with this year being no different, as retailers hope to drum up business following a sluggish final quarter.

Brexit, the global political scene, and Black Friday, amongst other factors, have led to a sizeable downturn in profits in comparison with this time last year, despite the fact that footfall has improved. While larger, multinational companies and brands can absorb these diminished profits, smaller independents, forced to compete, are feeling the pinch.

With the popularity of online shopping, many stores, including Debenhams, chose to launch their virtual sales on Christmas Eve followed by the equivalent in store on St. Stephen’s Day. Arnotts, on the other hand, kicked off their full winter sale in store and online on 26 December, although they had been offering customers discounts on their seasonal offerings in the weeks beforehand.

8 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

IRISHDESIGNED & OWNED MENSWEAR RANGE LAUNCHES AT AVOCA A new premium casual lifestyle brand has launched for Spring/ Summer 2017 with a range of men’s T-shirts and sweatshirts which are available online and in Avoca stores nationwide.

The brainchild of Dublin designer Mary Harding, Tonn Surf (Tonn is Irish for ‘wave’) is a 100% organic cotton that has been inspired by the waves of the Irish Atlantic coast and Ireland’s 50year surf heritage.

Having spent ten years working in New York’s fashion industry, Harding saw a gap in the market for an Irish Menswear lifestyle brand, which she duly set

about filling, working closely with Irish illustrators and designers.

Highlights in the inaugural collection include super-soft, garment-dyed tees in vintage-style colours, distinctive sweatshirts with Baird McNutt linen in the back necktape, and Magee linen in the V-neck inserts.

“All the graphics relate to Ireland’s surfing history from a print inspired

by Ireland’s first time to host the European Surf Championships in 1972 to a vintage map that highlights Sligo’s many surfing breaks,” explained Harding. “The collection also features wildlife found off our Irish coasts.”

S tephen Lynch, Phone: +3 5 3 (0) 87 25 6 570 6, Email: s tephen@lynchagencies.com

bugatti-fashion.com

NEWS

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 9

NEWS

ESRI FORECASTS CONTINUING GROWTH LED

BY DOMESTIC SOURCES IN 2017 According to Economic and Social Research Institute (ESRI), overall economic growth in Ireland is expected to be robust in 2016 and 2017, with forecasts of GDP growth of 4.2 per cent and 3.5 per cent respectively.

These forecasts have, however, been revised marginally downwards since the beginning of the year, largely as a result of the Brexit referendum and other potential trade-related uncertainty. The lack of clarity surrounding Brexit and the weakening of sterling are likely to hinder Irish export growth in 2017.

The labour market continues to improve and the unemployment rate is expected to reach 6.8 per cent by the end of 2017.

Although the consumer sentiment index has not increased in recent months, the figure remains above the long-term average.

The combination of the above factors, combined with a muted inflation forecast, is likely to support strong consumption growth of 3.5 per cent in 2017.

Author Kieran McQuinn commented: “The outcome of the Brexit referendum was the most significant international development for the Irish economy in 2016. It is increasingly apparent at this stage that it may take some time before the necessary trade arrangements are concluded.

“Until that happens, variables such as exchange rates, stock market returns, producer and consumer sentiment may continue to display heightened volatility. This, inevitably, impacts on our assessment of the trade performance of the Irish economy.”

Dr McQuinn also said: “Given the strong rates of productivity growth and falling levels of unemployment in the domestic economy, it would appear that the Irish economy is at or is very near to its potential level of output.

“From the public finances perspective, the most significant outcome of the recent growth performance is the likelihood of a close to balanced budget in 2016, with the prospect of a modest surplus in 2017 under current budgetary policy.”

10 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Hollister has a presence in Dundrum Town Centre

HOLLISTER IRELAND RECEIVES CASH BOOST According to new company filings, a cash injection to the tune of €3 million has been given to Hollister Ireland by its parent company, Abercrombie & Fitch.

This funding is intended to give a fillip to the company’s balance sheets, which had capital reserves of €7.6 million.

The Irish company boasts a flagship Abercrombie & Fitch store in Dublin’s city centre along with a Hollister store in Dundrum Town Centre. Turnover for the year ending January 2016 was €13.5, down from €14 million in the previous year.

LOAKE SHOEMAKER TAKES ITS FIRST STEPS IN DUBLIN In early December, Loake had its official opening in their new Dublin premises located in Wicklow Street, the heart of Dublin’s ‘Creative Quarter’. The area has been established since Georgian Times and is now home to many niche and artisan retailers, design studios, galleries and fine restaurants, making it the perfect fit for this shoemaker.

The premises has been designed to feel like a traditional gentleman’s shop, with a bespoke oak joinery interior along with fresh coffee on offer. The store offers an extensive selection of traditional and formal styles with particular emphasis on the shoemaker’s premium and mainline Loake 1880 and Loake Shoemaker’s ranges.

Group revenue showed an increase for Joules

JOULES ANNOUNCES REVENUE INCREASE In December 2016, Joules, the British lifestyle brand, provided a trading update covering the 26-week period to 27 November 2016, which is the first half of the Group’s 2017 financial year.

Group revenue for the period increased by 16.2 per cent to £81.4 million, reflecting the brand’s increasing footprint, growing customer base and the strong performance of both new and core ranges across product categories.

Retail revenue increased by 15.8 per cent to £56.7 million, driven by good growth in stores and e-commerce. The Group has continued to expand its retail presence in line with its plans, with the opening of a net 10 new stores during the period.

Wholesale revenue increased by 17.2 per cent to £24.5 million, as anticipated, given the previously reported growth in the A/W’16 wholesale order book across all markets. The brand has continued to develop in international markets including expanded product ranges within key US wholesale accounts as well as the launch of Kidswear in a new partnership with a leading US department store.

Colin Porter, Chief Executive Officer, commented: “The Group has continued to perform well throughout the first half of the financial year delivering strong growth across all channels. This reflects the strong appeal and quality of our products as well as the appeal of the Joules brand to both new and existing customers.

“We look forward with confidence to the second half of the financial year and beyond, despite the uncertain macroeconomic outlook.”

NEWS

CARL GROSS

PANORAMA FASHION PREMIERE MODA BIRMINGHAM CPM MOSKAU CIFF COPENHAGEN HOT I HOT II CPD FASHION WEEK DÜSSELDORF MODEFABRIEK CRÉATION GROSS GMBH & CO. KG // HOUBIRGSTRASSE 7 // 91217 HERSBRUCK // GERMANY // CARLGROSS.COM PHONE +353 (0) 1 6 70 65 25 // E-MAIL: J.GOSSON@CARLGROSS.COM MENSWEAR in Ireland | 11

NEWS

NEW REPORT SHINES LIGHT ON THE GLOBAL FASHION INDUSTRY After a tough 2016, growth in the $2.4 trillion fashion industry may accelerate next year, according to the first joint report from McKinsey and the Business of Fashion.

It appears that fashion is one of the past decade’s rare economic success stories.

Over that period, the industry has grown at 5.5 per cent annually, according to the McKinsey Global Fashion Index, and is now estimated to be worth $2.4 trillion. In fact, it would be the world’s seventh-largest economy if ranked alongside individual countries’ GDP. Yet, 2016 was one of the industry’s toughest years. Terrorist attacks in France, the Brexit vote in the United Kingdom, and the volatility of the Chinese stock market have created shocks to the global economy. At the same time, consumers

have become more demanding, more discerning, and less predictable in their purchasing behaviour, which is being radically reshaped by new technologies.

Additionally, companies have also been looking inwardly, implementing changes to the core operations that are reshaping the entire fashion system, from shortening the length of the fashion cycle to integrating sustainable innovation into the core product design and manufacturing processes. Perhaps unsurprisingly, 67 per cent of executives said conditions for the fashion industry have worsened over the past 12 months.

This fact is clearly borne out in the industry’s financial performance. Sales growth seems set to slow to a mere 2 or, at most, 3 per cent by the close of 2016, with stagnating profit margins. Speculation and uncertainty over the repercussions of the US election outcome could further dampen consumer sentiment and affect sales. This is in stark contrast to the fashion industry’s performance over the previous decade, which saw the industry expand at 5.5 per cent annually.

Yet this sluggish overall growth masks some big winners: affordable luxury, value,

and athletic wear. Affordable-luxury players benefited from consumers trading down from luxury, particularly among Chinese consumers.

In 2016, the 8.0 to 8.5 per cent growth for athletic wear is more than double any other category. This is consistent with its 10 per cent CAGR of the past decade, driven by consumers’ more active lifestyles, the rise of “athleisure,” emerging brands in the high-end segments, and product innovations.

Looking ahead to 2017, the report doesn’t express the hope that the volatility and uncertainty will lessen. In the same breath, their findings state that fashion companies are hopeful they can improve their performance through a combination of organic growth and leveraging new technologies. Successful companies will invest more to nurture local clientele: 2017 will be the year of organic growth by deepening relationships with existing clients, rather than through geographic, channel, and store network expansion. And digital innovation will go behind the scenes: digitisation will be the key to supply-chain efficiency, lowering procurement costs, and the enhancement of sourcing opportunities.

AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 NOW SHOWING.

Talmarc Clothing Ltd 242 Blanchardstown Corporate Park 2, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland Office: +353 1 88 55515 Fax: +353 1 88 55536 Mobile: +353 86 252 4707 Email: talmarcsales@eircom.net 12 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

www.alberto-pants.com

Keep the Elegance…

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NEWS

For w h o lesale enquiries, pleas e contact Oll i e Ca m p b e l l o l l i e @o l l i e c a m p b e l l . i e - + 3 5 3 ( 0 ) 8 6 8 7 6 8 0 9 6 MENSWEAR in Ireland | 13

NEWS

PURE MAN LAUNCHES PREMIUM CONCEPT AREA Vacancy rates on St. Patrick’s Street, Cork’s main thoroughfare, stand at just 7 per cent

CORK CITY EXPERIENCING STRONG RETAIL GROWTH Its residents often joke about suffering from an inferior complex but it seems that business is nothing short of superior in the country’s second city, Cork.

Vacancy rates on St Patrick’s Street, the city’s main thoroughfare, stand at just 7 per cent, the lowest rate in 18 months. New to street include fashion chain Superdry, who now occupies 371 square metre premises, which comes with a €395,000, 10-year lease.

One of the main challenges facing properties in the heart of the city is that they have a tendency to be in need of costly refitting and updating – not to mention high rental rates, as illustrated in the case of Superdry. And so, to keep up with demand from multi-national companies, keen to make their mark, there is much activity in the city’s property market in terms of sales and the repurposing of buildings.

The likes of Merchant’s Quay and Opera Lane have experienced excellent growth in recent times, welcoming the likes of Tommy Hilfiger, Next, New Look and Gap.

HigHligHts Autumn / Winter 2017

17. - 19. Januar 2017 Halle 2 stand 2.05

www.meyer-hosen.com

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Pure Man is diversifying its offering for 2017, with the forthcoming event – which will run from 12-14 February - set to welcome over 100 handpicked international menswear collections.

Menswear indies, and those looking to introduce a fresh menswear offering to their stores for 2017 will be able to source the latest in men’s apparel, footwear and accessories from heritage new and emerging brands, with cross-over buyers benefiting from the show’s prime location alongside Pure womenswear.

February will also see the launch of Concept, a brand new premium area housing niche brands in a pop-up environment, most of which will be exhibiting for the first time.

“Since its inception, our menswear offering has grown from strength to strength,” said Adam Gough, show organiser. “We have now introduced a new premium concept area, which has attracted brands that wouldn’t usually showcase their latest collections at any tradeshows “Buyers will continue to see Pure Man evolve over the next few seasons as we continue to add new categories,” he added.

NEWS

A U T U M N W I N T E R 2017 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT O U R D U B L I N S H O W R O O M , FA S H I O N C I T Y P L E A S E C O N TA C T: N I A M H D O N N E L LY

E : TRADE@JOULES.COM

T: +44 (0) 7580 993642 MENSWEAR in Ireland | 15

SHOWTALK

SHOWTALK LONDONEDGE

PREVIEW

12-13 FEBRUARY, 2017 ISLINGTON, LONDON

Following a highly successful September 2016 edition, LondonEdge will be taking up permanent residence at the Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1.

Running for two days this season, from 12-13 February, 2017, LondonEdge attracts key buyers from all over the world to the epicentre of alternative style and culture.

Recorded as one of the original subculture stomping grounds, Islington is filled with delicious eateries, shops and bars that all contribute to making a visit to LondonEdge the ultimate exhibition experience. Moreover, Islington is also a stone’s throw from the iconic bars, markets and music venues of Camden & East London - areas that have always held a special place in the heart of the Team Edge.

Managing Director of LondonEdge, Carole Hunter, is thrilled to be taking up residency at the BDC: “We feel like we’ve really found our personal mecca in Islington - The

Business Design Centre and North London feel like home.

“The location is great for everyone involved and this venue offers a convenient, beautiful and sociable environment in which to do business plus, with plenty of underground and mainline stations around, it’s so easy to find.”

Designed by Joseph Paxton for the Great

MODA

PREVIEW

19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 BIRMINGHAM, UK As it gears up for its February 2017 edition, Moda has confirmed a raft of early signings across each of its five product categories. The Birminghambased, bi-annual trade show has welcomed back a significant percentage of its summer exhibitors as it prepares for the A/W 17 edition of the show.

The forthcoming show will also boast a bolstered line-up for the new season and the development of each of its specific platforms targeting niche departments within the apparel trade.

In the menswear realm, brands including Olymp, Wrangler, Fynch Hatton, Gibson London, Gurteen, Johnston’s of Elgin, Geographical Norway, Hattric, Tom Hagan and Lambton Tailoring have been confirmed.

Over in Moda Footwear, which will showcase over 250 collections for February, new arrivals can be seen

16 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Exhibition in 1851, the Business Design Centre boasts a beautiful glass ceiling, which allows plenty of natural light into the venue. The multi-levelled space creates the perfect backdrop to the show allowing the 170+ collections exhibited to be seen by 1,000s of visitors from all over the world.

Further details are available online at londonedge.com

across the entire spectrum from comfort leader Hotter to directional Italian sneaker label Candice Cooper.

Exhibitors and visitors within the footwear sector will also have the chance to celebrate outstanding achievement at the Footwear Industry Awards, which will take place on the Sunday evening of Moda Footwear at the nearby National Conference Centre.

Elsewhere, Edit will diversify across both menswear and womenswear for the new season. Introduced as a new concept last year, this exciting platform

is a pared back area presenting niche and undiscovered labels within an entirely product-focused environment.

The concept was so well-received within Moda Woman that it was rolled out to Moda Gent last season, and both sectors will once again host the popular platform for autumn.

Confirmed exhibitors within Edit include Arc Minute, CuffsCollars, Peter Werth, the Blue Shirt Company, Gresham Blake and Surf Perimeters for Moda Gent, and Fee G and Olvanhill for Moda Woman.

AUTUMN COLLECTION 2 0 17

in

OLYMP Luxor

OLYMP Level Five

OLYMP Level Five

OLYMP Nยบ Six

OLYMP Level Five Casual

OLYMP Level Five Casual

OLYMP Casual

ExpoCenter City, Jafféstraße Hall 2, Stand 2.09 17-19 Jan. 2017 CIFF Copenhagen 1-3 Feb. 2017 Moda Menswear Birmingham 19-21 Feb. 2017 OLYMP Showroom Düsseldorf Halle 29, Rheinmetall Allee 3 Contact R. E. Flanagan & Sons Ltd. Dublin 17 Phone 01/8 02 20 18 flanagan@olymp.com

OLYMP Bezner KG · Höpfigheimer Straße 19 · 74321 Bietigheim-Bissingen · GERMANY Telefon +49 7142 592- 0 · Fax +49 7142 592-19 · mail@olymp.com · www.olymp.com

SHOWTALK

PREVIEW

GDS

7- 9 FEBRUARY, 2017 DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY For the forthcoming edition of GDS, which will take place from 7-9 February, 2017, the event organisers are anticipating more than 700 brands to exhibit their international collections in the three lifestyle worlds: HIGHSTREET, POP UP and STUDIO. In addition to this, there will be an informative trend programme, while an ancillary show, tag it!, which will feature approximately 150 exhibitors, will run concurrently.

The evolving nature of GDS is indicative of the constantly changing nature of the footwear sector, according to Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President and CEO of Messe Düsseldorf.

“Three years ago we have agreed with trade and industry to pitch GDS as a communications and information platform at earlier dates – in keeping with the then status quo. Many things have happened in the meantime and the shoe market is highly dynamic. Whoever you talk to – all confirm that the market is governed by great insecurity.

“Even though the needs of the individual market players vary extremely, one insight emerged clearly in the in-depth conversations with the extended circle of advisors: the sector wishes to have a strong international GDS. Looking further ahead, the event organisers together with the extended Advisory Board have decided to hold the Summer 2017 GDS in early September. Furthermore, the trade show will be held from Sunday to Tuesday in order to also accommodate smaller-sized retailers.

Dornscheidt does not consider the fact that the GDS dates might clash with the packed event agenda of the extremely busy Messe Düsseldorf exhibition centre an obstacle.

“Messe Düsseldorf’s motto reads: ‘We are a reliable partner for the industry.’ Therefore, we will react in the correspondingly flexible manner and actively co-manage change in the footwear sector although this may mean that we will probably have to opt for another venue.”

Further details are online at gds-online.com

PURE MAN 12-14 FEBRUARY 2017 OLYMPIA, LONDON

PREVIEW

Pure London and Pure Man trend-inspired fashion trade shows will take place over three days from 12-14 February, 2017 at Olympia London.

The AW17 edition features premium, new, emerging and established brands and designers, showcasing menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories.

For the forthcoming edition, Pure London Womenswear will be defined by new and exclusive brands showcasing the latest trends and movements within the fashion industry. A number of curated show sectors - Pure Premium, Allure, Aspire, Spirit, Footwear, Accessories and New Brands – will showcase a diverse range of styles, while catwalk shows will highlight some of the season’s key trends.

Pure Man, which has always featured mid- to high-end menswear fashion brands from apparel to footwear and accessories, is diversifying its offering for 2017, with the February event set to welcome over 100 exciting handpicked international menswear collections.

As a boon to many visitors, menswear indies, and those looking to introduce a fresh menswear offering to their stores for 2017, will be able to source the latest in men’s apparel, footwear and accessories from heritage new and emerging brands, with crossover buyers benefiting from the show’s prime location alongside Pure womenswear.

February will also see the launch of Concept, a brand new premium area housing niche brands in a pop-up environment, the majority of whom will be exhibiting for the first time. Among the line-up is Carrera Jeans, which will present its heritage line of denim alongside other pieces inspired by directional trends for AW17. Elsewhere, Esre Denim will unveil their latest range of fashion-meets-function apparel, while London-based Greek designer Aristides Vanis will present his eponymous collection featuring bold, eye-catching prints.

The accessories line-up in Concept includes watch specialist Telm London and Swedish brand Suedebird, whose stylish collection includes weekend bags, backpacks and smaller travel bags. The wider Pure Man offer will range from clean-cut tailoring to edgy contemporary pieces and cool casualwear. The awardwinning Remus Uomo label will return to the show with designled, formal tailoring and off-duty casuals; while softly-tailored suits and ultra-modern silhouettes will be showcased by Original Penguin. “The curated edit for 2017 is exciting and fresh - we have a great mix of international brands which are exclusively showcasing at Pure Man,” said Adam Gough, organiser of Pure Man. “Since its inception, our menswear offering has grown from strength to strength. We have now introduced a new premium concept area, which has attracted brands that wouldn’t usually showcase their latest collections at any tradeshows. Buyers will continue to see Pure Man evolve over the next few seasons as we continue to add new categories. “ Other menswear brands in the mix include Bellfield, Cheap Monday, Dedicated Brand, Eyelet Milano, Canadian Peak, Geographical Norway, FALKE, Michael Linnell, SLYDES and Tombag, with fashion- forward footwear and seasonal accessories offering retailers the perfect add-ons for AW17.

Further details are available online at purelondon.com

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 17

INTERVIEW

MOORE THAN MEETS THE EYE ORIGINALLY FOUNDED IN 1925, ULSTER STORES IS THE HUGELY SUCCESSFUL PARENT COMPANY OF A COLLECTION OF POPULAR, INDEPENDENT DEPARTMENT STORES - MOORES OF COLERAINE, PORTRUSH’S THE WHITE HOUSE, DE GRUCHY BASED IN ST HELIER IN JERSEY, AND CLARES OF LLANDUDNO IN WALES. EACH OF THESE STORES IS DIFFERENT AND HAS A PRODUCT MIX UNIQUE TO THEM. WITHIN THEM, CUSTOMERS WILL FIND A FINE SELECTION OF LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS COVERING THE VERY BEST OF FASHION, COSMETICS AND FRAGRANCES, JEWELLERY, ACCESSORIES AND HOMEWARE PRODUCTS. MENSWEAR SPOKE TO ITS CURRENT OWNER, NEVILLE MOORE, TO DISCUSS ITS PAST, PRESENT AND EXCITING FUTURE To discover the genesis of the booming Ulster Stores, the parent company of four stores spread across Northern Island, Wales and the Channel Islands, Neville Moore, its current owner, takes us back a sizeable 90 years. The original business, Moores of Coleraine, was started by his grandfather, in 1925. Unfortunately, tragedy struck when the entrepreneurial Cavan man passed away within the first 12 months of the business venture launching and, as a result, Moore’s grandmother had to take over the running of the shop in addition to managing everything else.

“Those were very difficult times,” Moore imagines, “but she knew that the business had to succeed in order to support the family, so she worked hard, had the vision and drive to succeed. I do think that spirit has continued through to the current day.

“As a business we have always embraced change and looked to the future, which I think has stood us in good stead.”

It was Moore’s father, John, who developed Moores of Coleraine as a store. He came into the business in the challenging period following the Second World War and one of his first successes was to purchase silk army surplus 18 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

parachutes and then make them into skirt lengths, which were then sold by mail order via the London Times.

“I can still recall the story he told me of his delight when the first post arrived in such quantity that he couldn’t open the door of the shop,” Moore fondly remembers.

John Moore used this industrious spirit to acquire neighbouring premises and developed Moores into a department store by the early 1970s. The success of this growth came as a result of the addition of new departments and the expansion of existing ones like menswear.

“Fashion’s influence on retail has played a huge part in our growth,” Moore mentions, “and I think the ability of our buying team to build brand relationships and buy the right merchandise in a fastchanging market has been an important part of our growth story.

“In terms of headcount, we have gone from a one-man band in the beginning to now employing in excess of 500 people.”

In the early 70s, the business then acquired the Whitehouse department store in Portrush some 11 kilometres away.

Whilst being physically close, it was a very different area since it was in a resort town, but, according to Moore, it integrated very

well with Moores in Coleraine.

“Indeed, the positive influence of tourism on the business’ performance is what lead us to make an acquisition in a seaside resort in North Wales - Llandudno in 2002,” Moore continues. “The store was a family-owned department store with many similarities to our own business. We invested in a store refurbishment and the sales and performance improved quite quickly.

“In 2006, using the same strategy of the influence of the coast and tourism, we acquired de Gruchy in Jersey. We are currently completing a £15 million redevelopment of the site and are delighted with how the store is currently performing.”

Moore adds: “It can be a challenge to operate businesses in different jurisdictions but I actually think it has also diversified our risk as we are not completely dependent on one region. Yes, it does require travel to stay in touch with what is happening on the ground, but we now have very good systems and stock control, and communication with new technology is much easier.”

Moore explains that organisation is key, agreeing on visits and meeting dates well in advance.

“It is important to still have time on the ground and I try to make sure that this

INTERVIEW

Neville Moore

happens whenever possible. It is also important to recognise that there is a very good team of people in place to run all aspects of the business and my job is to support and help develop them in their role as much as possible.

“With some of the development projects over the last two years, I have had more time away than usual.”

In terms of stock, Moore’s buying team keeps a close eye on the tastes of their customers and they are always happy to adapt accordingly. Over the last number of years, he mentions that they have definitely witnessed an increase in the strength of lifestyle brands.

“We were disappointed when State of Art withdrew from the market but have now replaced this very successfully with Gant,” he says. “This business has grown significantly over the last few seasons and we now stock it in men’s, ladies’ and kids’ [clothing].

“There has been a pick in a sharper look for men, so we have seen formal sales improve and we have reflected this by bringing in new brands such as Eton Shirts.

Moores will also be introducing Hackett from Spring ‘17. Men’s accessories have also become very important again.”

For inspiration, the buying team attends a number of trade shows while also scouring the high-street. Most of their buying takes place in showrooms in Dublin or London.

“There are some brands where we still need to visit their showrooms in Europe, which also provides an opportunity to see what is happening in those local marketplaces,” Moore reveals.

While he no longer takes part in buying appointments, Moore does spend plenty of time with his Head of Buying and the

buying team. He also plans to attend a couple of trade shows this spring so that he can stay in touch with what is happening and suss out additional opportunities for the business.

“If we are trying to build a new brand relationship then I will, quite often, go along to meet them,” Moore says.

Each of their four stores offers a bright and modern shopping environment, yet each has been sympathetically modernised, so as to retain their original heritage features - playing off the tensions and feelings that are created when mixing the old and new.

“I think store layout is critical to not only making the customer’s journey easier but also to excite them with product and what’s new. We now have very good visual display teams and they put a lot of effort into our display windows and in-store presentation.

We are constantly looking at what other department stores and retailers are doing so that we can learn from them.

“We also belong to Associated Independent Stores (AIS) and find that we can also learn from other members. We have recently started a new relationship with the design company, Caulder Moore, and are looking at some exciting new store layout opportunities.”

In terms of having an online and social media presence, Ulster Stores is extremely active. Moore recognises that the recent growth in technology has really changed the game for many sectors including retail and says that social media and new media has really altered how they market the business.

“It’s not everything that we do, and there is still a place for traditional advertising, but it has definitely made everything much more accessible and instant, which can be good and bad,” he reports.

“We have sold online for a number of years and that’s a growing part of the business. We have just invested in a new web platform and, with this, we will have dedicated sites for each store. We have a corporate site and have just launched Moorescoleraine.com, which will be transactional in the spring.

“However, I think our heart will always lie in the High Street - you are closer to the customer. It’s up to us to make our store experience compelling enough to ensure that people visit. Ultimately, I think for the customer it will be a marriage of the two.”

Now in their tenth decade, Ulster Stores has weathered many storms and, as such, is well prepared for any blips on the radar, including the uncertainty post-Brexit.

“Apart from a small blip at the time of the referendum, business has been good this year, which indicates that customer confidence has not been adversely impacted to date,” Moore suggests.

“There has also been some benefit to retailers in the North, in the short term at least, in the Euro/sterling exchange rate.

I think we can expect some inflation over the next 12 months and increased volatility in consumer confidence as the Brexit negotiations work their way through.”

With such a dynamic and demanding empire to run, does Moore and his 500-strong staff find time for any fun?

“There is always time for fun and it is important not to overlook this,” he states.

“We have made a real effort with our after Christmas party this year to freshen the format and make sure that it is fun. If you look at a brand like Ted Baker that is always trying to do things in a fun way, I think we could all learn from that.”

Luckily for all his many customers, Moore never considered any other avenues to pursue as a career but he does disclose that people have often told him that he would make quite a good poker player!

“But, I think that’s more from keeping my ‘hand hidden’ rather than a career opportunity!”

Looking ahead to 2017, Moore stresses the need to remain relevant to their customers. They are currently looking at how to develop Moores of Coleraine for the next generation, both in store and online.

“How can we introduce more services and brand partners? I think there is still plenty more opportunity to grow the business.”

And as a final word, what advice would Moore give to up and coming entrepreneurs?

“I would say look for good advice, listen twice as much as you talk and trust your gut instincts.”

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 19

TRENDS: SUITS AW17

Skopes

Digel Move

WALK THE LINE Although they never truly went away, stripes are set to make something of a comeback. On the key catwalks, designers such as John Varvatos and Tom

Wilvorst Corpus Line

RAZOR SHARP

R

elax, stop holding in your gut, and pour a celebratory beer. Those uncomfortable, skinny-fitting suits so beloved of the younger generation are about to take a back seat, sartorially speaking, for the forthcoming AW17 season, if the catwalks and leading trend forecasters are to be believed. The forthcoming season is set to usher in a host of sharp suits that, although far from loose-fitting, are less slim-fitting than in recent seasons.

20 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Baumler

Red

SLIM NO LONGER ‘IN’ Robin McGowan, co-founder of made-tomeasure tailor Institchu, is one of a number of style commentators who believe that the super-slim look will no longer in fashion for the forthcoming AW season.

“We‘re already seeing a move away from this cut as men begin to embrace a more relaxed suit,” McGowan says. “They will still be slim fitted, but certainly not skin tight. And in line with the slightly looser fit, we‘ll also be seeing wider lapels and longer jackets and pants.”

Bespoke tailor John Cutler of J.H. Cutler, meanwhile, takes a similar stance.

“Suit fashion is a seven-year cycle,” he explains. “I believe it‘s driven by the big manufacturers to keep people buying their

Ford are at the vanguard of the pinstripe procession. Elsewhere, Prince of Wales checks made their presence felt and are expected to be something of a tour de force for AW17.

Benvenuto Black

products. The general public suddenly believes that the tight-fitting jacket they are wearing just doesn‘t cut the mustard anymore, and so they feel the need to buy something else.”

“The tight-fitting suit with its slim, short trousers has been on trend for a while now, and so we‘ll see things getting wider again.

On the catwalks in Europe, we‘re even seeing bell bottoms. I don‘t think we‘ll quite get to that here, but suits will definitely get easier; lapels wider, and more room across the back and shoulders.”

Style commentator Matt Jensen agrees that suits will remain slim, but not skinny, as the average man looks towards comfort and a more conservative aesthetic.

TRENDS: SUITS AW17

Skopes

Digel Move

Roy Robson

Red

Magee

Skopes

ON THE DOUBLE Double-breasted tailoring, although gathering in momentum in recent seasons, is bigger than ever, with designers responding to the fact men want suits that flatter and fit, rather than drown.

While it remains decidedly niche, albeit significantly less so than in previous years, brands such as Baumler and Wilvorst are just two of many who are pushing this style for AW17.

22 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

SEASONAL COLOURS Like many style commentators and trend forecasters, McGowan says a more subdued colour palette will be evident for AW17.

Whereas the bright navy suit has topped the popularity stakes in recent seasons, he believes that it “is on the way out as we move towards greyer colours, especially charcoal, and I think men will start to look towards various shades of olive green as well.”

Shades of emerald and khaki green are Jensen’s tips for the most popular seasonal colours in suiting. He also predicts a rise in the demand for earthy tones, monochromatic greys and muted blues.

Digel Move

IN THE MIX Mixing it up could also be on the cards for AW17, as men experiment with different fabrics and textures, often at the same time.

“Why stick to a suit of just one fabric or colour?” McGowan says. “Pair a navy blazer with grey or charcoal trousers for a more individual look. It‘s all about finding your own individual style. Stripes, patterns, subtle weaves; it‘s all possible.”

AGENT PROFILE

THE OTHER SIDE OF FASHION RUNS INDELIBLY THROUGH WILLIE HEATON’S BLOOD. TRUE TO FORM, AFTER COMPLETING HIS EDUCATION, HE WASTED LITTLE TIME IN JOINING THE FAMILY’S CLOTHING BUSINESS, SAVILLE HEATON & CO., WHICH MADE HIGHQUALITY MEN’S TROUSERS IN LEEDS; AND HAS REMAINED IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY TO THIS DAY.

Willie Heaton at Royal Ascot

A

s one of leading fashion agents in the menswear sector, Heaton’s achievements are considerable.

Almost 40 years ago, he introduced the Club Casuals trouser brand into Ireland, and has been actively supplying shops and stores across the country ever since. No less impressively, he created the Oakman brand in the late 80s, continuing to expand the company by introducing highly popular co-ordinated collections of men’s casualwear.

More recently, Heaton established WDH Menswear Agencies in 2014, which now works closely with what he describes as “several really good European menswear brands”. Not one to take his foot off the gas, he currently represents two brands in Ireland – REDPOINT, a jackets and jeans specialist, and Allsize, a plus size specialist.

Despite his many achievements, Heaton remains refreshingly humble about his success. Indeed, as he enters his 40th year in the Irish menswear sector, he mentions “how my friends and customers often remark that I’m just now finally getting the hang of it!”

There is, of course, much more to the man than his passion for fashion. Here, he shares an insight into what makes him tick outside the working week.

Roly’s Bistro

Licence to thrill: Daniel Craig

Jamaica V8 Vantage

Henry Heaton’s REDPOINT-sponsored car

Paul Smith OBE Scuba diving in Jamaica

FAVOURITE ACTOR? The aforementioned Daniel Craig – the best 007 there has been!

FAVOURITE BOOK? Mr Selfridge - the true story of the pioneer of the legendary department store. A brilliant read!

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Roly’s Bistro in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4: fantastic food and a great ambiance.

FAVOURITE DESIGNER? Paul Smith for his sharp, contemporary fashion.

FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? Jamaica for its friendly people, weather and, of course, fantastic scuba diving.

FAVOURITE CAR? Aston Martin V8 Vantage – a classic thoroughbred two-seater.

FAVOURITE TV SHOW? Breaking Bad - it’s the best thing I’ve ever seen on TV.

HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB? I’m blessed that I love working in the fashion industry and look forward to meeting new challenges each season.

Outside of the job, my other passions are motorsport and scuba diving.

Our son, Henry, age 25, competes in the

FAVOURITE FILM? Layer Cake (2004) - brilliant acting by Daniel Craig.

Vilamendhoo

Caterham Supersport Championship, where he recently came third. REDPOINT now sponsors Henry’s car as the media coverage generated provides the perfect vehicle for promoting the brand to a wide audience.

From April to October, the Championship consists of one round each month in the UK and Europe at iconic racing circuits including Spa in Belgium, and Brands Hatch and Silverstone in England. My family and I are the ‘garage support team’ – it’s an exciting sport which we enjoy with friends and customers.

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME? I plan to be involved in fashion and motorsport.

IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE….

I’d be in the Maldives on one of the tiniest islands, Vilamendhoo, enjoying being truly away from it all.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 23

TRENDS: SHIRTS AW17

SHIRT STORIES

C

hecks, stripes and a smorgasbord of prints and patterns sums up the mood for AW17 shirts. There’s plenty to tempt traditionalists – a plethora of plains are readily available, while checks (both large and small) and stripes provide conservative alternatives – but also a wealth of options for the more fashion-forward, younger male.

Whether casual or dressy, the season’s shirt offerings are notable for their variety. Dark hues provide a welcome break from the recent dominance of pastels, while oversize prints add a funky casual choice.

For the less daring yet still

Arrow

CasaModa

Digel

Pure

Olymp

Camel Active

CG – Club Of Gents

Marvelis

Marvelis Olymp Venti

Hatico

PLAIN SAILING

CHECK MATES

PRINTS CHARMING

LINE ‘EM UP

Bugatti

Olymp

Rich Friday

Hatico

Digel

Venti

Venti CasaModa

Eterna Olymp

Pure

Bugatti CasaModa

24 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Hatico

VOXPOP

2016 THE YEAR THAT WAS IT’S A YEAR THAT SEEMED TO PASS BY IN A FLASH, BUT HOW WERE THE PAST 12 MONTHS FOR RETAILERS IN IRELAND. WE SPOKE TO FIVE RETAILERS ACROSS THE COUNTRY TO GET THEIR VIEWS AND VERDICTS ON THE YEAR THAT WAS.

Farah Vintage was a big success for McCalls of Lisburn

MARK MCCALL OWNER, MCCALLS OF LISBURN, CO. ANTRIM

“Where did 2016 go? It’s been another busy year for us and we’re enthusiastic about the uplift in business this year. McCalls opened in April 1956, so 2016 was our 60th anniversary year. We made it to the finals of the National Drapers Awards and we commissioned a special photo shoot and PR project to promote the milestone.

“We introduced Farah Vintage for A/W 16 and it’s off to a fantastic start.

The fits and price points are great and we’re seeing a younger customer in-store buying it. We’re always trying something new. In November, we had our Tommy Hilfiger shop-in-shop installed on part of our casualwear floor; it’s got off to a tremendously positive start and we’ve had great support from the brand in terms of merchandising, too.

Lacoste was one of a number of new additions to Arnotts’ menswear range

VALERIE O’NEILL MENSWEAR DIRECTOR AT ARNOTTS, DUBLIN

“Looking back on business for 2016, menswear continued its success this year. In terms of highlights, swimwear in spring was particularly strong. Even with a mild winter, men have invested in outerwear.

“This year, we introduced numerous

26 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

new brands into our brand mix, such as Lacoste, Armani Jeans and Antony Morato. Another area that was important for us was our menswear presence online, which continued to grow in keeping with the store.

“Looking ahead to 2017, we are very excited about the introduction of Armani Collezioni and Scotch & Soda for S/S 17.”

“Towns and cities certainly have their challenges with regards to footfall, but we’ve definitely seen a trend for customers to spend more on each visit. They are particularly interested in the nicer pieces and willing to pay for the right products. Anecdotally, customers are heading North with the exchange rate change but this is more beneficial to the border towns than our own. More concerning is the price increases from some suppliers.

“Keeping inflation at bay will be a challenge for 2017 because of the above. But we’re forging ahead with further investment in our store, this time in our wedding hire department.

Roll on 2017!”

VOXPOP

MARK MCCLOSKEY OWNER, EVOLVE,

LETTERKENNY, CO. DONEGAL

Suits from Remus Uomo were a hit at McDermott’s Menswear

Check suits have soared in popularity thanks to the ‘McGregor’ effect

GERARD MCDERMOTT

PAUL DUNNE

OWNER, MCDERMOTT’S MENSWEAR, OLDCASTLE, CO. MEATH

“In 2016, things picked up a little for us. Nothing major or huge, but definitely better than the year before.

Suits were a big player for us this year with brands like Benetti and Remus performing really well. Jeans also proved popular. We found it difficult to shift heavier outerwear like coats, which is, I suspect, on account of the fact that the young men can’t bring them into nightclubs – so they opt for jackets instead.

“In terms of market spend, it’s more or less the same as 2015 but you can tell that people can afford a little more these days. In saying that, provincial towns like Oldcastle suffer as we can’t compete with online shopping or big shopping centres.

“It will be interesting to see what effect Brexit will have on business here in Meath. I think everything is still very much up in the air, which is in itself problematic because the doubts and indecisiveness that are currently out there can put a damper on customer confidence. So far, it’s hard to judge.

OWNER, JACK DUNNE & SON, GOREY, CO. WEXFORD

“Business in 2016 has been good – the first half, in particular, was strong and much better than the previous year.

Speaking to a few other people in the industry, there appears to be a general consensus that the second half of the year was flat, although I’m not quite sure why. October wasn’t great for us, unfortunately, but, all in all, I’m happy.

“We have a good presence online – along with our website, we are active on social media. I feel you have to be economic with the amount you post on Facebook – people become cautious and fed up if you are overly commercial, posting things every day. We are a little more selective once a fortnight.

“A brand that has really stood out for us is Bugatti. It keeps improving year on year. Suiting and formal wear were very strong for us this year, especially amongst younger people. Credit has to go to Conor McGregor who has been very influential and has made check suits a must-have. People are now opting to purchase formal wear rather than renting them.

“We had a revamp in the store a couple of years ago so there wasn’t much demand for change this year.

We have a presence on social media but an online store isn’t something that would work for us.

“Something else we’ve noticed is that there has been an upturn in the popularity of Black Tie – a few local companies had Black Tie Christmas parties, for example. This area suffered a lot during the recession but it seems to have come full circle again. Next year, we are going to invest a lot in Black Tie.

“We’re looking forward to 2017.

Every year will bring new challenges and opportunities, but we’re ready!”

“In 2017, I plan to keep things tight and will focus the brands we stock – the ones that work and the ones that don’t.”

“The first six months of 2016 were particularly strong – a continuation from a strong 2015. Casualwear saw an increase while suiting also remained strong, with people opting to buy suits for weddings over hiring when getting special packages.

“We launched our online store in November. It has performed better than expected with very little promotion. It will take a lot of work and dedication in 2017 to get it to the point we want to.

“We introduced some more casual brands, the likes of Sik Silk and 11 Degrees, both of which performed very well. We also took on Farah Tailoring, which did very well instore at a good price point.

“We also rested a few brands that did not perform for A/W’16, as well as consolidating our footwear offering by making it more focused – as such, we now carry less stock in this area.

“The last six months have been challenging with Brexit and the sterling rate dropping. Being so close to the border, we’ve seen an impact with fewer people travelling here from the North. Also, with the national media painting an untrue and impartial picture, it’s hard then to change the mindset of people that are being told to go to the North to spend their money. On the upside, we opened a store in Derry last October and this has seen a steady increase.

“Looking ahead at 2017, we are hoping for more of the same. It’s going to be a year to approach with caution I feel. We are adding another 2,500 square foot retail space to our store in the first quarter to enhance the customer experience in store. And along with putting a push online, it will be an exciting year nonetheless.”

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 27

TRENDS: OUTERWEAR AW17

Carl Gross Black Line

Hajo

Magee

Bugatti

Digel

Joules

Milestone

Nagano

Benvenuto Black

Camel Active

Benvenuto Purple

Eden Park

Digel Move

Milestone

Bugatti

Baumler

S4

IT’S A WRAP

O

uterwear for AW17 is a pleasing fusion of form and, crucially, function. Whether it’s tailored pieces for a working wardrobe, or more relaxed smart-casual designs for weekend wear, options abound throughout the key collections.

From single-breasted, three-quarter length overcoats and car coats to padded down jackets and cropped bombers, there’s a wealth of choice whatever your sartorial taste. Staying warm has never been more stylish!

Joules

28 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

IT’S AUTHENTIC, NEW, VINTAGE, GLOBAL, WOMENS, RETRO, LIFESTYLE, MENS, CREATIVE, DARK, CURRENT, ROCK, NOW...

LIFESTYLE FASHION TRADE SHOW

SUNDAY 1 2 T H M O NDAY 1 3 T H FE B R UARY 2 0 1 7 BUSINESS DESIGN CENTRE Islington, London, N1 0QH. Running concurrently in London with Pure Womenswear.

Trade Buyers Only. info@londonedge.com

REGISTER ONLINE FOR YOUR VISITOR E-TICKET NOW.

COLLECTIONS

STYLE FILE PREVIEWS OF THE LEADING

AW17 MEN’S COLLECTIONS

ALBERTO Warm, super-soft wool and flannel pants are making a great comeback and feature prominently in Alerto’s AW17 collection.

The season sees the Mönchengladbach-based trouser specialist change the cut of its pants - sometimes subtly, sometimes radically. One example is ‘Baggy’, the dramatically altered variation on sweatpants that now features pleats and comfortable elastic at the waist and hems.

Stand-out designs include classic wool pants made of high-quality Italian fabrics containing fine silk and Spandex; and the Lefthand Coated jeans which have a matte coating that feels pleasant to the touch.

Elsewhere, deluxe denims are a style essential for AW, appearing in assorted designs boasting sophisticated details, elaborate washes, ingenious surface treatments and high-quality Italian fabrics.

Plain colors for the season winter are out.

Instead, elaborate color schemes in tweed look, traditional checks or outsize plaids create extravagant, dandified or rough, military-inspired looks highlighted with matte-finished buttons.

30 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

BENETTI Available from stock at Gosson Agencies’ Dublin showroom, Benetti is offering a full stock service on the AW17 range of men’s suiting.

A comprehensive collection that is defined by its quality and style as well as its ultra-competitive prices and extremely attractive margins, the range boasts suits for every occasion in a fine range of fabrics.

Colours are in keeping with the season and include assorted greys and blues. The new collection also features an extensive choice of suits in smart checks and versatile fabrics.

A comprehensive range of knitwear in assorted colours, all from stock, is complemented by assorted shirts to match, all in fits suited to the Irish man.

COLLECTIONS

S4 - 100% MAN Clean. Clear. Urban.

A / W 17

BUGATTI

Lyn ch Ag en cies

W W W. S 4 -JAC K E TS .CO M

Innovative functions, new designs and surprising details are key to Bugatti’s AW17 collection.

Small patterns and subtle business stripes are apparent in suiting, where jackets reveal new sporty sides, such as nylon waistcoats and soft inside collars.

Knitwear provides a fashion highlight, boasting casual pullovers in knit looks and 3D structure, while casual shirts are enlivened by expressive, modern patterns lend shirts contemporary sophistication.

Elsewhere, Bugatti’s trouser collection displays plenty of innovation and includes the new City Five Pocket style. Outerwear is similarly impressive and notably diverse. A stand-out style is the innovative energy jackets, a functional design equipped with a power bank for charging mobile phones.

A diverse palette sees typically autumnal tones including black, navy and grey accompanied by lighter colours, such as dust-white, silver and greige.

Pa ul Lyn ch 62 A Lowe r C a m d e n St I R L- D ublin 2 M : +3 5 3 8 7 1 4 6 65 28 pa ul @ lyn chag e n cies . n et

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 31

COLLECTIONS

BRÜHL Inspiration and innovation for Brühl in AW17 come from the label’s new qualities and, in particular, new surface finishes.

Both the cut and the fabric exude practicality, while a reliable fit is a matter of course. Silhouettes remains business-like, and attention has been paid to details such as matching inner and pocket linings.

Importance is given to the fabrics in the range. Special dyes and emerised finishes give trousers an unusual feel and high-calibre aesthetic. Elsewhere, cotton is mixed with modal and Tencel to create a temperature-regulating, easy-iron fabric that is soft and voluminous.

A key addition for AW17 is the Polar Denim segment, a new generation of thermal fabrics containing a polyester with super-soft threads that regulate the temperature on the inside while producing a cosy feeling.

Blues are predominant for AW17, while other significant shades include various greys, warmer tones such as oxblood and berry, and military green.

B.BROS Bruhl’s label aimed at more progressive, fashion-conscious men, B.Bros’ AW17 range is characterised by distinctive finishes and a masculine palette.

Minimal prints and modern fabrics are important for a season in which the theme for the collection is the English country gentleman. Key colours range from grey, silver, indigo and night blue through to warmer autumnal tones of wood, khaki and burgundy.

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COLLECTIONS

CARL GROSS Carl Gross’ Premium Line is characterised by superior Italian fabrics, innovative finishes, finely nuanced interiors and sartorial tailoring. This is reflected in the AW17 suits, which feature a slim silhouette with a well-proportioned, body-hugging torso, and is based around a palette of grey, camel, chestnut, blue and Bordeaux.

Single-breasted designs are dominant this season, while three-piece and double-breasted options add diversity. Check patterns, meanwhile, are omnipresent, while pinstripes in various colours and large-size repeating patterns enliven the Modern Business suits.

In addition to sporty jackets, the AW range sees an expansion of the coat and leather jacket ranges. Short, elegant paletots in soft-wool feature alongside casualoriented car coats in herringbone looks.

In terms of colour, a masculine palette is prevalent in which grey, blue, chocolate, camel and burgundy provide accents.

Autumn/ Winter 2017 now showing.

Talmarc Clothing Ltd 242 Blanchardstown Corporate Park 2 Blanchardstown Dublin 15 Ireland Office: +353 1 88 55515 Fax: +353 1 88 55536 Mobile: +353 86 252 4707 Email: talmarcsales@eircom.net www. milestone-jackets.com

COLLECTIONS

CASAMODA For AW17, CasaModa finds inspiration in Sweden’s colours, combining classic masculine shades with exciting accents. The most apparent facet of the collection, however, is it diversity, with three different delivery dates offering up their own key pieces and palettes.

Earthy natural shades such as cool Nordic emerald and marine are complemented by fashionable violet accents in the first delivery, while assorted greys, royal blue and rust shades are key in the second, where stand-out designs include re-interpreted classics such as checks and stripes in red and royal on a marine and grey blend background. The palette of the third delivery is based around assorted blues and reds, which create masculine, sporty looks.

Alongside the Comfort Fit, emphasis is also on a wide range of casual fit shirts in the CasaModa’s Sports category. The bestselling multicolour check is continued in seasonal colour combinations and supported through the newly designed Oxford Mono. A minimal print as well as a stripe and shaft pattern completes the range.

Business shirts in the Premium collection boast exceptional care properties. A Modern Fit caters to the slimmer silhouette, while a Comfort Fit offers a high degree of comfort, even up to 7XL.

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CG - CLUB OF GENTS For AW17, CG-Club of Gents derives its impulses from the Brit Pop movement of the mid-90s. Key to the look are new silhouettes, exacting details, innovative finishings and fashionable styling.

Three-piece models are the focus for an extensive suiting collection in which jackets appear with one or two slits and narrow lapels, and trousers are available with or without turn-ups. Patterns are favoured over plain fabrics, while bicolours in masculine-melange shading, pepper and salt looks and Prince-of-Wales checks are on-trend.

Finely-structured shirts impress with shark or small button-down collars.

Jackets, meanwhile, showcase vibrant looks and structures, assorted patterned fabrics and, occasionally, multi-coloured pinstripes.

The Brit Pop influence is readily apparent in a trousers range where new silhouettes ensure a style upgrade and slightly wider legs are favoured over the slim-fit.

A masculine and classic palette flows pervades the collection. Blue, grey, black in highly varied shades and tones intermix to good effect, while Bordeaux provides a distinctive accent.

COLLECTIONS

ETERNA Two trends shape Eterna’s AW17 shirt range: the Formal Wear line for the office is more relaxed, while casual shirts are smarter.

At the same time, there is a greater demand for functionality and new fabric characteristics. As a result, jersey and bi-elastic materials now feature strongly.

Sharp silhouettes with a modern look and perfect fit characterise Eterna’s Slim Fit and Super Slim ranges. Here, colour trends are minimalist while prints are very graphic and at times appear to be drawn by hand. Mandarin collars and small button-down collars emphasise the clean lines of this new look.

Different colours predominate within the collection. The first delivery sees a focus on a discreet berry shade and dusty Nemo Green, which are supported by various dark blues. Here, new graphic prints, stripe variations and large, monochrome open checks are attractive alternatives to monochrome designs. A later delivery, meanwhile, reflects multifaceted plays on colour with deep tones. Grapevine and purple are teamed with light walnut brown and medium grey.

EDEN PARK Eden Park’s AW17 collection has a decidedly modern appeal, in terms of style as well as the choice of fabrics and textiles.

A new take on the label’s renowned sporting touch, with the emphasis on jackets, runs throughout the collection - and a multitude of features.

The Sports line, which is made up of three distinct themes, remains traditional and upholds Eden Park’s codes. Key pieces include 100% marled cotton hooped jerseys, patched padded nylon jackets and cut-andsew blazers, with the front, sleeves and back in three-tone wool canvas.

A strong knitwear range features everything from classic polonecks and cardigans to V-neck sweaters, many of which revisit Eden Park’s familiar rugby stripes.

GORDON SHANNY Phone: 061 349090 | Fax: 061 341366 Mobile: 086 8154555 e-mail: gordonshanny@eircom.net www.c-bruehl.com

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COLLECTIONS

HAJO Inspired by the ‘Golden City’ of Prague and divided into three disparate fashion themes, Hajo’s AW17 collection impresses with its diversity and quality.

A number of key points characterise the collection. Decoration with labels and patches has been reduced, while moss embroideries and applications of chenille make a welcome return.

The use of an unseasonably warm palette is also evident. Black as a basic colour is, of course, still evident, but a warm, friendly aesthetic is achieved by bright and neutral accents of shades of mineral colours. Blue is also prominent for AW17, particularly in bright tones and, frequently, in combination with grey and brown.

Hajo’s sweatshirts provide one of a number of fashion highlights, featuring details such as padding, quilting and stitching.

JOULES Joules focus on classic, simplistic style for AW17. The collection is inspired by rural weekend retreats in the great outdoors along the British coast.

Dark hues of navy and grey dominate the colour palette, seen throughout structured coats and tailored blazers. Pops of colour such as oil yellow and rhubarb maroon are injected through the collection where casual-comfort remains unrivalled in 5-pocket-jeans and chino trousers.

Off-duty layering is key for easyto-wear style on casual occasions.

Classic stripes and checks continue to reign in the shirting collection, perfect styled under a cable knit jumper for extra warmth on the coldest of days.

Fashion highlight include the tailored Langworth tweed blazer, the lightweight Farrington bomber jacket and the classic fit Lambert shirt

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COLLECTIONS

MAGEE Magee’s AW17 collection includes a stylish menswear line, New Tradition, which pays homage to the Donegal brand’s distinctive heritage in quality luxury fabrics and expert tailoring.

Styling is contemporary with subtle geometric woven, knitted and printed fabrics expressing a retro trend for both casual and tailored pieces.

A second line, Winter Haven, is similarly impressive and takes inspiration from Ireland’s ethereal autumn landscape. The collection encapsulates luxurious elegance through its appreciation of quality, longevity and timeless style for the contemporary gentleman.

Fabric colours are harmonious and feature exaggerated weave structures, high texture and subtle checks, each piece is designed to empathise our unique heritage with modern styling.

MEYER Meyer’s AW17 collection showcases a diverse collection of trousers in high-quality fabrics that are rich in detail.

Different product lines boast their own respective characteristics. The Diego range, for example, features a highquality Liberty London fabric with matching belt, while the popular Thermo trousers in the Sierra line come with a new skinfriendly cotton lining and an extra-large mobile phone pocket.

All items in Meyer’s Exclusive line focus on special and unusual fabric qualities. High-quality Supima Cord, a special cotton quality with wool, and an innovation from Loro Piana, pure wool with super-stretch effect, are both prominent.

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COLLECTIONS

MILESTONE Milestone’s AW17 collection is indicative of the brand’s clear commitment to different style collections: sometimes chic, sometimes timeless, clean and modern or new nostalgia. As a result, diversity runs throughout the range, whose component designs encompass everything from bold colours to neutral tones, single colours to prints, and smooth to structured finishes.

Premium materials such as fine wool and leather are used for timeless, classic-styled outerwear, while sportier models make use of innovative technical materials. Focus is placed on slimmer silhouettes throughout.

Some key details are readily apparent in the range. Classic patterns such as checks, salt and pepper and herringbone feature prominently, while a strong use of spandex ensures snugness, even with narrow silhouettes.

In terms of colour, muted tones dominate: urban grey and blue in various shades, natural hues of brown, from beige to mud, as well as the perennial classics of navy and black.

REMUS UOMO Remus Uomo’s AW17 collection brings together a range of influences encompassing the art moderne movement of the 1930s, the timeless style of the 70s and touches of the sports-luxe trend.

The need for greater comfort in what men wear everyday continues to gain momentum and the latest collection from the Drapers Independents ‘Menswear Brand of the Year’ offers comfort and flexibility in wear through key layering pieces inspired by sports-luxe. This trend is referenced across the collection, which includes jersey outerwear, stretch suiting and shirting and feature drawstring and double pleat trousers.

When coupled with the styling references of the 70’s, the fusion creates a rich and contemporary layered look.

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OLYMP Olymp’s AW17 collection is indicative of the growing desire for authentic, sensual and tactile experiences, which is seen as a reaction to increasing digitalisation. The result is an extensive range of casual and formal shirts that marry form with function and incorporate a selection of elegant collar styles.

A varied palette encompasses everything from black, which is combined with camel and magenta tones to create stunning contrasts, and grey to velvet blue, brown, amber and blueish green tones.

While monocolour shirts are readily available, there’s plenty of visual interest, too. New types of prints inspired by the world of tapestry, modern paisleys and new graphics characterise the look of the latest patterns. Elsewhere, matt/gloss effects in the form of jacquards and satin introduce a ray of light.

New compact Kent collar styles have been specially developed for this theme and underline the masculine look.

Olymp’s shirt collections are complemented by coordinating sweatwear and knitwear ranges.

AW17 sees the introduction of innovative embossed-pattern fabrics in jackets, as well as the continuation of print patterns in formal and casual tailoring. In knitwear, meanwhile, a mix of chunky and fine knit structures creates style and versatility.

The non-conformist flavour of collection is accentuated by a use of bold pattern. Art-Deco inspired geometrics are seen across formal and casual tailoring with printed wool fabrics in jackets and elsewhere, in suit linings and trim details. The theme makes for easy co-ordination across the range using similar motifs in shirts and knitwear.

Remus Uomo’s seasonal palette sees masculine navy, blue, grey and charcoal accented and deepened by claret, forest green and just a hint of caramel.

COLLECTIONS

S4 A collection that epitomises urban fashion, S4’s AW17 offering fuses city styling with contemporary design, new linings and high-quality outerwear fabrics.

Water-repellent wool effect and actual wool, often in combination with polyesters or bonded with jerseys, are predominant in collection, while natural stretch is a feature throughout the collection.

Key innovations for AW include the stuffing of real down into channels woven directly into the outer fabric, thereby preventing the down from escaping between the stitches; and enhanced, lighter quilting.

In terms of style, the range runs from waistcoats, through betweenjackets, to new sports coats and breathable, water-repellent bomber jackets. The seasonal palette, meanwhile, focuses on light eggshell, grey, beige and mixed woolly tones, while accents are provided by red, amber yellow, and deep sky blue.

SKOPES Tailored, fitted statement jackets and overcoats with luxury trims, estate tweed blazers and heritageinspired linings come together for Skopes’ AW17 collection in an impressive offering that is rich in colour and texture.

Ideal for dressing up or down, the new season’s suits come with optional waistcoats and are available in mix-andmatch for optimum versatility. Elsewhere, stretch-waist chinos and soft cotton needle cord trousers appear in earthy neutral tones, providing a perfect base for layering.

The Heritage story continues across the expanded range of seasonal mix-andmatch suits, where brushed tweeds and smaller scale dogtooth checks in short fitted jackets offer a contemporary twist on a classic theme.

A long-established supplier of ‘Kingsizes’, Skopes carries many lines up to size 62” from stock, with Special Ordering Service able to cater for 72” chest, and extratall jackets and trousers.

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COLLECTIONS

VENTI VAN GILS

Van Gils showcases a continuation of the sophisticated tailored look for AW17. Blues and greys, combined with winter whites in mélange and flannel qualities, structured fabrics, combined with broader lapels and pleated trousers provide a rich and luxurious appearance. Colour is added in flashes of winter-warm stones and camels, teal-blues and rustic-brown palettes.

In addition to the popular ‘Wet Suit’ and ‘Travel Tailoring’ programme, the collection features a broad range of well-fitted single and doublebreasted suits along with an extended range of half-lined and unconstructed jackets in soft and washed qualities. Garment-dyed, velvet and corduroy are all key, some with shawl collar and patch pockets give the designs a contemporary, yet everyday feel.

Notable fashion highlights include the use of exploded patterns for suits, jackets and coats, as well as large, outspoken checks, bold birds-eyes, and an array of pied-de-poule in all scales.

A new addition for AW is a Tailored Sportswear Line in close cooperation with DJ Dannic, a leading Dutch DJ. This specific capsule, ‘Van Gils X Dannic’, boasts a softer and more relaxed feel and features slimmer jackets mixed with lean smartjoggers with garment-washing and dyeing effects.

Inspired by various divergent sources, Venti’s AW17 collection comprises a number of different lines, each with its own unique colour theme and fit.

The business range, Venti Edition, for example, sees new NOS items enhanced with multi-coloured prints. A handsome palette of Emerald, Rust, Olive, Sulphur, Berry and Electric Blue creates a resolutely masculine aesthetic.

In the Body Fit category, meanwhile, slim-fit shirts in the season’s trend colours are complemented by matching ties and bow-ties. Also new for AW17 is the non-iron Sneaker shirt, which boasts vertical as well as horizontal elasticity, ensuring optimal wearing comfort and total freedom of movement.

Adding further visual interest to the collection, the use of multi-coloured buttons, in particular, creates a semi-dressed feeling and interprets classic patterns in a whole new way.

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AW 17/18

12–14 Feb 2017

Olympia London

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