JANUARY 2018
STYLE FILE
ROUND-UP OF THE BEST AW18 COLLECTIONS
DRESS FOR SUCCESS INTERVIEW WITH TONY CONNOLLY
FOLLOW SUIT THE KEY TRENDS IN AW18 SUITING
SHOWTALK
PREVIEWS OF THE LEADING TRADE SHOWS
DISCOVER OUR NEW AUTUMN / WINTER COLLECTION PANORAMA, BERLIN: 16.-18.01.18 CONTACT: UK | LONDON & MANCHESTER MARC THOMPSON | PHONE: +44 (0)7887 8811 72 E-MAIL: MARC@ENYALTD.CO.UK IRELAND DAVE FURLONG | PHONE: +353 (87)231 1247 E-MAIL: DAVID@DFURLONG.COM
HALL 4.1, 4.05
WELCOME
Christmas may still be in the rear view mirror and sales signs might still be found in some shop windows, but a new year calls for looking forward – and there’s much to look forward to in 2018! Our focus this issue is on the AW18 season, which is set to usher in a host of impressive new trends, exciting colour palettes and covetable garments. Our Style File section on P.26 provides an exclusive preview of some of the season’s best collections, while a trio of trend reports, covering suits, shirts and outerwear, gives a good insight into what to expect. Elsewhere, with the show season set to kick off, we preview the leading shows relevant to the men’s arena in our Showtalk section on P.20. Our interviews this issue concern a pair of fascinating retailers. On P.16, we catch up with the genial Tony Connolly, who has been a mainstay of the retail sector for many years. On P.24, meanwhile, Anthony Kearns proves an equally fascinating interviewee. Having opened his Tullamore business, Guy Clothing, just seven years ago, he has since two additional stores in the children’s clothing sector and ladies’ and footwear sectors, respectively. In an insightful interview, he talks about his retail vision and explains how keeps the three businesses ticking along. We’re back again next month when we’ll be including a Vox Pop on the Christmas Sales, shining the spotlight on AW18 casualwear and featuring the concluding part of out seasonal preview. In the meantime, a very Happy New Year to all!
COVER IMAGE: Olymp AW18
CONTENTS 2 NEWS
12 BRAVING THE ELEMENTS
Alexander Fitzgerald, Editor mail@skypublishing.ie
The need-to-know from the fashion sector
Key trends for AW18 outerwear
14 EARN YOUR STRIPES
How shirts are shaping up for AW18
16 DRESS FOR SUCCESS
Interview with Tony Connolly of Connolly Man
18 FOLLOW SUIT
SEE US ON
Trends in AW18 suiting
20 SHOWTALK
Previews of the leading trade shows
23 THE OTHER SIDE OF Menswear in Ireland is produced five times annually. If you would like to receive our next issue, drop us a line on a postcard with your details to: Menswear in Ireland, Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main Street, Rathfarnham, Dublin 14, Ireland. Telephone: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 Email: mail@skypublishing.ie Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre Sales & Marketing Manager: Avril Smith Editor: Alexander Fitzgerald Assistant Editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue Printers: Swift Print Solutions. © All editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publishers, Sky Publishing 2018.
70 Waterloo’s Richard Flanagan reveals his varied interests
24 LUCKY SEVEN
Retailer Anthony Kearns reveals the thinking behind his fashion ventures
26 STYLE FILE
Previews of the leading AW18 collections
NEWS
NEWS
Black Friday continues to grow in importance for the Irish retail sector
Paul Galvin
NEW OWNER FOR GALVIN TULLAMORE Galvin Tullamore, one of Ireland’s most celebrated menswear store, has recently finalised its sale. Paul Galvin, the owner of the popular, family-run business — which currently employs 17 staff members is one of the country’s oldest family-owned menswear shops — has decided to retire and has now passed the baton on to one of its long-serving employees, Les Keenaghan. Having first opened its doors in 1950, when it was founded by Galvin’s parents, John and Della, Galvin Tullamore instantly found success amongst customers from all over Ireland. Amongst many other accolades, it won Independent Store of the Year in the prestigious annual Drapers awards in 2015. Recent accounts filed for PMG show up until January 2016, the store had retained profits of €6 million. Galvin is stepping away from the company after more than 40 years. He began working behind the counter alongside his father in 1977 after finishing school. He bought his parents out of the business in 1988, at the age of 28. 2 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
BLACK FRIDAY FULLY EMBRACED BY IRISH RETAILERS Heading into Black Friday, there appeared to be a recognition of the importance of the pre-Christmas sale within the Irish retail industry. In fact, in the lead-up to 8 December, Retail Ireland was confident that it would be a recordbreaker in terms of the discounts being offered to customers. “Retailers have continued to heavily discount products in recent months in order to drive footfall, and with consumer disposable income up 5.4 per cent in the first half of 2017, consumers stand to benefit from even greater spending power,” said Retail Ireland Director, Thomas Burke. However, Burke also acknowledged the pressure events like Black Friday cause for businesses already contending with tight margins. He added: “While Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales are good news for shoppers they do present a challenge for Irish retailers. Total sales in December 2016 fell by 1.2 per cent when compared with the previous month. This fall in sales, in what should be the busiest month of the year for retailers, highlights that an increasing proportion of Irish consumers are now making a significant number of their Christmas purchases in November
in order to take advantage of the deep discounts available in this promotional period. “The question retailers are now asking is whether or not such shopping events are merely displacing consumer spend and reducing margins over the crucial Christmas shopping period.” Lorraine Higgins, the deputy chief executive of representative group Retail Excellence Ireland, recently shared her concerns, referencing the difficulties faced by independently owned shops, but added that “more and more of them were getting on board with the Black Friday concept.” “We’ve seen more people engaging in it than we would have in previous years and it’s not just the high street retailers ... there is a longer lead to the Christmas period, which is probably needed by a lot of retailers,” Higgins told the paper. REI is encouraging people to shop local, supporting jobs in their communities, and despite the challenges retailers face, they are optimistic that the industry is on track have their best Christmas for several years. This sentiment was backed by the CSO’s recent retail sales index that showed the value of sales were up more than 3 per cent year-on-year in each of the first three quarters of this year. However, less positively, according to a poll run by The Irish Independent in the immediate aftermath of Black Friday, just a third of those asked bagged a bargain while over half of readers said they “weren’t bothered with Black Friday at all.”
Le French Flair
Showroom - 42A Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel. 353 1 429 5088 - Mob. 353 86 876 8096 ollie@olliecampbell.ie
www.eden-park.com
NEWS
The Magee team at the Drapers Awards
MAGEE HIGHLY COMMENDED AT DRAPERS AWARDS Magee was highly commended in the Premium Brand of the Year category at the recent 2017 Drapers Awards. The award went to Barbour, which took home the accolade for the second year running. The annual awards ceremony took place in London’s iconic Roundhouse on 30 November. Winners on the night included Joules, which was named as Mainstream Brand of the Year and Fashion Retail Business of the Year (between £101m - £500m turnover), and M&S, which saw off keen competition to pick up the award for Multichannel Retailer Consumer Choice. Described by the judges as a “mainstream brand with a solid identity”, Joules has introduced short-order options for its main partners, enabling it to keep offering new and exciting product. Magee, meanwhile, was praised for showing how a traditional brand can also be innovative; judges pointed to its clever use of social media, and highlighted the brand’s forward-thinking ideas. In the past 12 months, the Donegal-based brand has appointed a new ecommerce team to redesign and re-launch the Magee website.
REMUS UOMO’S EXPANSION CONTINUES Fresh from opening a flagship store in Dublin city centre, Belfastbased Remus Uomo recently opened its first stand-alone in England. Located on Bridlesmith Gate in Nottingham, the 800 square foot premises is home to the award-winning brand’s range of formal and casualwear. In addition to its Dublin and Glasgow stores, Remus Uomo also has a store in Belfast city centre. Its menswear range is currently stocked in more than 300 retailers throughout Ireland and the UK. 4 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
Spending in the clothing and footwear sector increased by 5.6 per cent
GROWTH IN SALES OF CLOTHES AND FOOTWEAR IN IRELAND The latest edition of Visa’s Irish Consumer Spending Index suggests that Black Friday sales encouraged a sharp, year-onyear rise in Irish household expenditure during November, visible across many areas, including the clothing and footwear sectors. The index, which measures expenditure across cash, cheques and electronic payments, pointed to a marked acceleration in the rate of growth in consumer spending. Expenditure was up 5 per cent year-on-year, much faster than the 0.7 per cent rise in October. In fact, the expansion was the strongest since September 2016. Growth in expenditure was broad-based between the Faceto-Face and eCommerce channels, with the expansion slightly faster on the high street. Face-to-Face spending rose 5.1 per cent year-on-year, the sharpest increase for a year-and-a-half. Face-to-face expenditure has now risen in three successive months as the high street mounts a recovery following an 11-month sequence of decline. eCommerce spending rebounded in November following the previous month’s reduction. Expenditure was up 4.8 per cent year-on-year, as Irish online shoppers sought out deals on Cyber Monday. Each of the eight broad sectors covered by the Irish Consumer Spending Index saw increases during November, suggesting that households distributed their expenditure across a range of different products and services. The sharpest expansion was in Household Goods and at 13.7 per cent year-on-year, the rate of growth was the fastest since May 2016. After having been unchanged in October, spending in the clothing and footwear sector increased by 5.6 per cent on an annual basis in November. Expenditure has now risen in the category in seven of the past eight months.
NEWS
STRONG DEVELOPMENT ACROSS DUBLIN’S SHOPPING CENTRES There is plenty of development work currently taking place across Dublin’s many shopping centres. While it waits to discover if it has received the thumbs up for a 27,000-square-feet, multimillion euro extension, Liffey Valley has successfully completed a 16,000-squaremetre extension, which has seen the opening of a new 5,000-square-metre Pennys along with six restaurants. The verdict on their latest application for further development is expected in early 2018. If the West Dublin centre
IRISH ECONOMY LOSES €418M AS A RESULT OF CROSS-BORDER SHOPPING It has always been a controversial subject - Irish shoppers travelling north of the border to take advantage of a weak sterling. And now, it has recently emerged the high price the Irish economy pays for
receives the goahead, the owners intend to redevelop a one-hectare site, removing an existing unit and replacing it with two restaurants and two retail units. Liffey Valley is one of a number Meanwhile, of Dublin shopping centres Blanchardstown that has been redeveloped has just been granted permission anchor store and a multi-storey carpark. to expand the Red Mall section of the Also in south Dublin, Dundrum Town shopping centre, which is expected to Centre has secured planning permission add almost 10,000 square metres of for 100,000 square metres of retail space new retail space. The shopping centre’s on a site next to the original scheme. Central Mall has also received the green Blackrock’s Frascati Shopping Centre, lights for an additional 5,575-squaremeanwhile, is not to be overlooked either metre extension. Work is expected to with its redevelopment currently in full commence in the New Year. swing. Nearby, Dún Laoghaire Shopping Elsewhere, The Square in Tallaght, Centre is also on the verge of a revamp Dublin 24 has also received the go-ahead although it is hoping to secure a new for a sizeable 21,500-square-metre anchor tenant before work kicks off. extension that will include both a new
these bargain-hunters’ buying patterns. Such sprees accounted for €418m in the North in the past year. However, due to the continued uncertainty of Brexit, forecasters have assured the Irish economy that despite cross-border shopping, growth in the Republic is predicted to be close to 5 per cent compared to just 1.4 per cent for Northern Ireland. In fact, according to Economic Eye, Ireland’s retail sector in the Republic has recovered to 2010 levels, with over 10,000 additional jobs expected to be added between 2017 and 2022.
FUTURE OF GARDEUR GROUP SECURED On the evening of 1 December, 2017, the contracts to save Gardeur, the tradition-rich trousers specialist from the Lower Rhine, were signed. With immediate effect, the family-run Duijndam Group from the Netherlands will take over the helm at the Gardeur Group, which filed insolvency proceedings in early October 2017. The aim was to stabilise supply in the short term and reposition and expand Gardeur in the national and international markets in the medium term. Commenting on this development, Steef Duijndam, founder and head of the Duijndam Group, said: “I am happy that the acquisition of Gardeur gives me the opportunity to further build and develop one of Germany’s most popular and renowned textile brands departing from a difficult situation.” 6 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
Shoppers crossing the Border from the Republic have spent €418m in the North in the past year
NEWS
Slow walkers are believed to be one of the biggest bugbears of shoppers
SHOPPING CENTRE INTRODUCES CORRIDOR FOR SHOPPERS IN A RUSH Lakeside Centre in Essex has introduced a 220-metre corridor marked on the ground for people in a hurry. The management team says the idea sprang from the realisation that many shoppers simply do not have the time to leisurely browse the various stores. According to a recent survey by MasterCard, slow walkers are the biggest annoyance of 80 per cent of shoppers.
BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS REFINANCES DEBT
clothing, as well as the operation of a hotel in Blarney, Co Cork. “In the period 2007 to 2011, the group incurred significant trading losses and asset impairments which, taken to together, resulted in the group having a deficiency in shareholders’ funds and being in breach of banking covenants,” directors note in the latest set of accounts. “In more recent years, the group has traded profitably and during the year and subsequent to the year end, has refinanced its banking facilities, which resulted in the group returning to a sustainable financial state,” the directors added.
The Woollen Mills group, whose businesses include Meadows & Byrne, posted an operating profit of €1.8m last year, up from the €803,000 it made the year before. Blarney Woollen Mills has also returned to a “sustainable financial state” after refinancing its bank facilities, the company confirmed. Turnover at the group’s stores reached €17.5m in the financial year to the end of last January, compared to €17.4m in the previous financial year. The accounts note that the principal activity of the group is the Blarney Woollen Mills has returned to a sustainable financial state sale of giftware and
CONSISTENT PRODUCT RANGE LEADS TO RECORD TURNOVER FOR OLYMP New accounts released by Olymp reveal an impressive performance by the shirt specialist. On 31 December 2017, Olymp Bezner KG had achieved an increased turnover of €258 million (€250 million in 2016) – an increase of three per cent compared to the previous year. “The year 2017 was challenging for the entire clothing sector,” said Mark Bezner, CEO and Owner of OLYMP. “In view of these market conditions, we are completely satisfied with the result we have achieved. The demand for our products has increased further. Exports, which make up around 35 per cent of total turnover, have also shown a moderate increase. “The largely stable distribution of sales between home and abroad however, is proof that in the particularly competitive main market of Germany, in which we are able to demonstrate a considerable product presence, we are also succeeding in gaining market shares to the same extent.” The business segment still represents the most important factor in Olymp’s business development. However, in the meantime, the growing trend towards more casual looks in men’s clothing in the professional world has become apparent. In 2017 this also required a significant expansion of the OLYMP leisure collections, which are selling exceptionally well.
8 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
Record results for Olymp in 2017
N O 01
M E N I N O LY M P AUTUMN 2018
NEW LEVEL FIVE SMART BUSINESS
O LY M P LEVEL FIVE SMART BUSINESS
O LY M P LEVEL FIVE CASUAL
O LY M P LUXOR
O LY M P LEVEL FIVE
O LY M P NO. S I X
PA N O R A M A B E R L I N 16-18 Jan. 2018, ExpoCenter City Jafféstraße, hall 2, stand 2.18 CIFF COPENHAGEN 31 Jan. - 2 Feb. 2018 MODA MENSWEAR BIRMINGHAM 18-20 Feb. 2018 O LY M P S H O W R O O M DÜSSELDORF Halle 29, Rheinmetall Allee 3 CONTACT R. E. Flanagan & Sons Ltd. Dublin 17 Phone 01/8 02 20 18 flanagan@olymp.com
OLYMP Bezner KG · Höpfigheimer Straße 19 · 74321 Bietigheim-Bissingen · GERMANY Telefon +49 7142 592- 0 · Fax +49 7142 592-19 · mail@olymp.com · www.olymp.com
CONTENTS
Portwest’s Harry Hughes has been named EY Entrepreneur of the Year
PORTWEST CEO NAMED ENTREPRENEUR OF THE YEAR Harry Hughes, the CEO of Mayo firm Portwest, was recently named EY Entrepreneur of the Year thanks to the meteoric rise of his Mayo-based clothing company, which specialises in safety products and workwear. Employing more than 2,100 people worldwide and selling to more than 100 countries, Portwest enjoyed a €25.6 million pre-tax profit in the months up until February 2017. Accumulated profits were €111 million for the same period. Portwest is owned by Hughes and his two brothers, Owen and Cathal. The trio recently acquired Westport House and plan to invest €50 million into its redevelopment, which will include, amongst other facilities, a museum.
High stamp duty rates slammed by Hammerson
DUNDRUM OWNERS SLAM AVOCA APPOINTS INCREASED NEW MANAGING STAMP DUTY DIRECTOR CHARGES In a move that indicates its intention for British expansion, Tara O’Neill, the former Chief Financial Officer of Jamie Oliver’s restaurant group, has been named Manager Director of Avoca. O’Neill’s new role began in October 2017, but it is thought that Simon Pratt, who has now resigned as a director of the popular food and clothing brand, will remain as an adviser for the coming 12 months. The family-run Avoca business — which was founded in 1974 by Pratt’s father, Donald — was sold for €63 million in 2015. Today, it enjoys an annual turnover of €60 million and employs over 1,000 people across its 12 outlets nationwide. Coincidentally, Ms O’Neill hails from Co Wicklow, the county where her new employer was founded.
Hammerson, the British property empire, which owns 50 per cent shares in Dundrum Town Centre, the Ilac Centre and the Pavillions Shopping Centre in Swords, has criticised the recent stamp charges included in this year’s budget, fearing that it will hit the value of its Irish assets. Stamp duty for commercial property in Ireland has increased from 2 per cent to 6 per cent with a spokesperson for Hammerson mentioning how this will directly impact the value of commercial property assets in the country, “including the carrying value of our own Irish assets”. Hammerson added that, despite this, “income returns are unaffected and remain positive for our portfolio.” Before the downturn, stamp duty rates had been as high as 9 per cent.
SURVEY SHOWS MORE MEN SHOP ONLINE THAN WOMEN
More men than women shopped online in 2016
According to Eurostat, more men than women shopped online in 2016. Their recent survey reported that 65 per cent of female internet users shopped online, compared with 67 per cent of males. However, women were more likely than men to buy clothes over the internet - 68 per cent compared with 56 per cent while a much larger share of men bought electronic equipment 31 per cent compared with 17 per cent. Irish people were also keen users of internet banking in 2016, with an average of two-thirds of us engaging in online banking regularly. MENSWEAR in Ireland | 9
NEWS
HILFIGER AIMS TO EXPAND IRISH PORTFOLIO Following an impressive 7 per cent uptick in sales in 2016, global fashion brand, Tommy Hilfiger, is planning to expand its presence on Irish soil. Turnover for the fashion giant soared to €23.6 million in the financial year up until 29 January, and now its Irish directors are said to be eyeing new opportunities in 2018. The focus is thought to be on new stores openings along with launching additional concessional stores. In Ireland, the company currently employs around 200 staff members. It currently has three stores in Dublin along with a strong presence in Cork, Galway, Limerick, Athlone, Waterford and Kildare Village.
SIGNIFICANT GROWTH FOR GALLERY AND GALLERY SHOES The new synergy of the two sister tradeshows Gallery and Gallery SHOES is bringing new momentum to Gallery as an international fashion tradeshow in Düsseldorf, according to the show organisers. “There is a noticeable rise in the demand from the high-end segment,” said Ulrike Kähler, Project Director of Gallery and Gallery SHOES. “The Premium & Agencies area is experiencing the strongest growth. “At the last edition there were 20 agencies, but for the upcoming event we are already expecting 27. That is equivalent to a growth of 35%.”
S4 JACKETS LAUNCHES NEW WEBSITE Men’s outerwear specialist S4 Jackets has unveiled its new upgraded website, s-4jackets.com Designed to portray the brand’s sophisticated, masculine and urban ethos, the site has been revamped by Bremen-based agency, Graphek GBR. The website now communicates and expresses the brand’s philosophy from conception to realisation. As an additional highlights, visitors can discover a blog-area with inspirational entries about everything that attracts men: a broad range from Cars & Mobility trends to Craft Food & Gastronomy to Art & Design, Grooming & Lifestyle. 10 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
Further Irish growth planned for Hilfiger
NEW CEO FOR DIGEL AG Digel AG has successfully completed the search for a new Managing Director. Michael Berngruber, 49, will start his new position as a Member of the Board this November. He will be responsible for the products, sales and marketing. Berngruber joins Digel from the Clinton Group. He was previously working at Tommy Hilfiger in Amsterdam and Hugo Boss in Metzingen. Jochen Digel continues to be a Member of the Board along with Berngruber.
NEWS
CARLGROSS.COM phone +353 (0) 1 6 70 65 25 e-mail J.GOSSON@CARLGROSS.COM MENSWEAR in Ireland / FOOTWEAR in Irelandland | 11
TRENDS: OUTERWEAR
BRAVING THE ELEMENTS Form meets function for AW18 as leading brands usher in a diverse arrange of fashionable and functional outerwear. From luxury fabrics to utilitarian details such as phone pockets and concealed hoods, the new season’s collection of coats impresses on all counts.
NAGANO
CARL GROSS BLACK LINE
MILESTONE
NAGANO
ROY ROBSON
REDPOINT
REDPOINT
DIGEL MOVE
CHRIS CAYNE
CAMEL ACTIVE
REMUS UOMO
Z ZEGNA
S4 JACKETS REMUS UOMO
CLUB OF COMFORT
CORNELIANI 12 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
DOUGLAS
GARDEUR
BAUMLER
DIGEL
CARL GROSS
CARL GROSS BLACK LINE
NAGANO
DIGEL
GARDEUR
CG-CLUB OF GENTS
S te phe n Ly nc h | Phone: +3 5 3 (0) 87 2 5 6 570 6 | Em a il: s te phe n @l y nc hage nc ie s.c om
TRENDS: SHIRTS AW18
EARN YOUR STRIPES Shirting comes to the fore in AW18 with a diverse array of styles and designs. Mixes add excitement to plain-coloured shirts and provide a base for window checks and stripes, while prints are practically ubiquitous, especially florals and geometrics.
PURE
CASAMODA
CAMEL ACTIVE
ETERNA
OLYMP
HATICO
DIGEL MOVE
CG-CLUB OF GENTS
CASAMODA
SEIDENSTICKER
SAVILLE ROW BY CLUB OF GENTS
CG-CLUB OF GENTS
DOUGLAS
CAMEL ACTIVE
OLYMP
PURE
VENTI
EDEN PARK
PADDOCKS
BUGATTI
DOUGLAS
VENTI
PURE
DIGEL
ETERNA
SEIDENSTICKER 14 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
REMUS UOMO
HATICO
MEN COLLECTION AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018
Ollie Campbell Ltd. Phase 4 | 42A Fashion City | Ballymount, Dublin 24 Phone: +353 142 950 88 | Mobile: +353 868 768 096 ollie@olliecampbell.ie
INTERVIEW
DRESS FOR SUCCESS SINCE IT FIRST OPENED ITS DOORS IN 1970, CONNOLLY MAN HAS SUCCESSFULLY EXPANDED ITS PORTFOLIO AND NOW BOASTS AN IMPRESSIVE SEVEN STORES ACROSS THE COUNTIES OF LIMERICK AND TIPPERARY. HERE, TONY CONNOLLY, THE MAN WHO DESERVES THE LION’S SHARE OF THE CREDIT FOR ITS SUCCESS, SPEAKS TO MENSWEAR ABOUT A CAREER AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF MEN’S FASHION Tony Connolly’s rise to the top of the Irish drapery world did not come overnight. The Munster man got his first taste of fashion in the late ‘50s where he cut his teeth as an apprentice in Kingston’s of Limerick. He remembers them as a great company to work for and he fell in love with the machinations of the fashion business from the start. His dedication and passion was clearly evident to his superiors and, a short time later, the talented fledgling was effortlessly making his way up the proverbial ladder to success. He was appointed both manager and buyer of Kingston’s new fashion shop, where he worked with them right through the Sixties, a time when young fashion clothing really began to take off. It came as no surprise to anyone that, one day, Connolly wanted to branch out on his own, and so, he marked a new decade by launching his first menswear store in Limerick City, Connolly Man. “We opened the first shop in 1970 on William Street with a mix of both young and basic fashion,” Connolly recalls from his office in Limerick. “The city had three clothing factories at the time - Danus, Limerick Clothing and Crescent Clothing. These were the source of supply for the more conventional suits, sports jackets, slacks and coats. We were in a position to top up on a weekly basis.” This store, currently located on Limerick’s main thoroughfare, Patrick Street, was just the beginning of Connolly’s master plan for provincial 16 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
Tony Connolly
domination. “I guess it was a slow and steady expansion,” says Connolly when quizzed about his initial approach to growing his business. “The risks were more measured in the beginning. The first store was trading well and I was surrounded by good people - that gave me confidence. “The discretion available to agents, creditors, and banks, ‘back before’, was so supportive, too.” Across his seven stores, Connelly reports that the majority of his customers hail from Limerick and Tipperary, but he is also quick to mention that they do have customers coming from all over Munster. “We’re always delighted when locals now living in other counties and countries still choose to wait to shop with us when they are home,” he proudly mentions. Connolly Man caters for the entire spectrum of menswear and fashion, and attracts customers from every age group
while appealing to a variety of tastes. Brands such as Wrangler, Calvin Klein and Bugatti sit alongside the likes of Magee, Jockey and Douglas. Connolly comments: “I think many of our customers are proud to support local enterprises. They like forming a relationship with their salesperson and expect good service, variety and quality. It’s nice to see so many different generations of men comfortable in the same store.” The early days are in stark contrast to how his businesses operate today with Connolly stressing how the landscape has dramatically altered since the Seventies. While he believes that, overall, customers’ spending patterns haven’t changed too much – “the busy times are still the busy times, the quiet times still remain quiet” – for the most part, the fashion industry has been greatly re-imagined. “Back then, most of our suppliers were
INTERVIEW Irish companies,” he says. “Unfortunately, now, very little menswear is produced in Ireland or, indeed, Western Europe. Having said that, we still have a superb selection of Irish suppliers with quality merchandise that is made abroad.” He continues: “That is just one difference – there are many others. Another example – we had very few UK multiples back then. Independents were the dominant group and your main competition. Today, many brands that supply us have their own stores trading alongside us.” “The advent of out-of-town retail centres and outlet villages throughout the country has, no doubt, affected the growth of the major cities and larger rural centres,” he adds. “Some small towns have been so very badly hit. The road network is much better so shoppers travel for a change of scene and a larger selection.” Connolly also acknowledges the volume of sales that are now achieved online, which has proven to be a serious competitor for everyone in the trade. “To be honest, online business is not especially important to us, overall. We have a PayPal link on our website for vouchers and deposits. Our offering is different insofar as our variety is large but quantities small. It’s a store for browsers and those who enjoy the shopping experience, and are reassured of quality assistance.” Of course, it isn’t just the business model that is evolving and shapeshifting – so, too, are men’s fashion tastes, which are, according to Connolly, constantly changing. “Neat fitting suits and jackets, slacks and shirts are now being asked for by every age group. But, I have seen it all before in the sixties with mohair suits and drainpipes. Nothing surer, but that will change and come back around! No doubt we’ll see flares again!” The stores are the recipients of constant refurbishments and upgrades - “when you finish the last, you’re back onto the first!” – a testament to Connolly’s unrelenting commitment to his emporium and his desire to keep ahead of the competition. After seven decades in the fashion industry, Connolly appears to have little interest in slowing down. While he now shares the running of the businesses with his son, David, and daughter, Noelle, Connolly is just as active as those aforementioned early days. “Today, my schedule mainly involves keeping in touch with my work colleagues, both by phone from my office, and visiting every store frequently. I have a very good
The original Tony Connolly premises on William Street in 1970
team running the shops. My children are involved and have taken control of the day-to-day running. “I enjoy meeting our customers and spending as much time as possible on the shop floors, mainly on the busier days. I really enjoy being around the stores on a good Saturday, which is still our busiest day, and I love the Christmas buzz and the January sales.” It is no surprise that Connolly enjoys being on the floor seeing as the stores are noted for their dynamic and friendly atmospheres, something, the businessman notes, is a credit to his staff. “We have a very good team at present,” he states. “Some have been with us for 30-plus years while others are reasonably new to the organisation, having joined in recent years. I am constantly getting
feedback from customers and praise for the salespeople that served them. It’s very reassuring going forward, knowing that this is the area where we independents can beat the big boys!” This fighting spirit shows absolutely no sign of waning. Maybe he finds inspiration and strength from the Munster rugby team who, in conjunction with Skopes, Connolly Man exclusively kits out. “The very core of our business is our genuine commitment to the highest standards of customer service and aftercare. If we can hold this mission true and live it every day, listen and adjust to our customers’ needs, get the basics right in terms of variety, quality and value, then I think the future is safe. “We take pride in our good name.” And, a good name it most certainly is. MENSWEAR in Ireland | 17
TRENDS: SUITS AW18
FOLLOW
SUIT
ATERLIER TORINO
BAUMLER
Evolution, rather than evolution, once again appears to be the overriding principle when it comes to men’s suiting for AW18. Sure, there are some subtle tweaks, some discrete modifications in terms of details such as lapel length and trouser silhouette; but, for the most part, the season’s suits adhere to the tried-and-tested formula: two-button jackets and slim tailored trousers. After all, if ain’t broke….
WILVORST
CARL GROSS BLACK LINE
CG-CLUB OF GENTS
DOUGLAS
REMUS UOMO
REMUS UOMO
CARL GROSS
CG-CLUB OF GENTS
DIGEL MOVE
RED SUITS
CARL GROSS BLACK LINE
GALA
DIGEL
18 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
NAUTICAL & CLASSICAL MENSWEAR FOR AUTUMN / WINTER 2018.
Derek Eakin Ltd, Shercock Road, Cootehill, Co. Cavan P: 00 353 49555 2285 M: 00 353 87699 2865 E: jony@derekeakin.com www.chriscayne.com
TRADE SHOW PREVIEWS
SHOWTALK FEAST OF FABRICS AT TEXWORLD PARIS
The next edition of Texworld Paris, the international fair for fashion, fabrics, trims, accessories, will take place from 11-14 February, 2018 in Le Bourget, Paris. With over 600 international suppliers and approximately 1,000 exhibitors from 25 countires across the globe, the biannual show is a must for fashion insiders looking to meet to carry out business in the field of fabrics and clothing. As ever, the show organisers’ aim continues to be to develop a new approach, a different way of exploring the aisles and discovering the trends, creating a true call to the senses. As such, the four-day show is renowned for the ease with which it provides visitors and exhibitors with the latest trends.
SEPTEMBER TO WITNESS DEBUT OF LEATHERWORLD PARIS
The debut of Leatherworld Paris will take place from 17-20 September, 2018. Organised by Messe Frankfurt France, the four-day show will focus on hides, materials and leather goods. Leatherworld Paris will be collocated with Texworld, Apparel Sourcing, Shawls & Scarves and Avantex Paris which take place twice a year at the Le Bourget fairground and attract thousands of professional visitors from all over the world.
INTERNATIONAL AUDIENCE EXPECTED AT APPAREL SOURCING PARIS
Hailed as the première European trade fair for worldwide apparel sourcing, Apparel Sourcing Paris will take place in Paris from 11-14 February, 2018. The bi-annual show — which was first held in September 2011 — is acknowledged as one of the key events to find the best solutions in fashion and fashion accessories sourcing. Considering the keen interest in garment manufacture at the heart of Texworld, Messe Frankfurt France has decided, in order to respond better to buyers’ demands, to reorganise the clothing manufacturers as a whole, with the addition of fashion accessory manufacturers. Apparel Sourcing Paris will take place on the same dates and at the same location as Texworld Paris in the interests of saving time and limiting distances for visitors. In keeping with recent editions, the show organisers are expecting to attract in
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the region of 680 exhibitors from 20 countries. Further information is available online at apparelsourcing. fr.messefrankfurt.com
TRADE SHOW PREVIEWS
DYNAMIC PROGRAMME PLANNED FOR MODA GENT
Moda has revealed details of its biggest and most dynamic content programme to date ahead of its AW 18 edition, which will take place at Birmingham’s NEC on 18-20 February, 2018. Over the three days, Moda will host a brand new content programme this season in conjunction with market leading trade titles WWB and MWB. A content-rich schedule has been designed by the show’s organisers to help retailers to take advantage of new digital trends that will help to maximise their business. The new features will add live and interactive elements to the show; for the first time, retailers will be shown how to boost their sales by tapping into the internet traffic that can be directed towards sales through inspirational visual styling and promotion. The February edition will see Moda put styling and flatlays in the spotlight with its first-ever live photoshoot, which will enable exhibitors and visitors to watch and engage as a real photoshoot takes place on-site. The aim, the organisers explain, is to inspire viewers with regard to props, styling, photography and product presentation. “Fashion is a visual industry, and we are bringing styling into the spotlight with an interactive event that we hope will appeal to visitors and exhibitors alike,” says Victoria Jackson, editor of MWB. “Simple props and presentation can really increase the appeal of a collection on social media platforms, and we hope that brands and retailers alike will be inspired from both a styling and
merchandising perspective as they head into the new season.” Visitors will also have the chance to engage more directly with Moda’s line-up of seminar speakers with the development of the show’s workshop area. Introduced last season to give buyers the opportunity to speak to industry experts following their on-stage presentations, the workshop area will evolve for the new season with an appointment system, whereby visitors can be guaranteed free, expert advice during their visit to the show. As part of the menswear focus, a panel discussion focusing on the New Dandy and the direction of menswear will headline the seminar programme. Led by leading fashion and lifestyle blogger Carl Thompson, Marc Darcy’s creative director Karen Johal and Master Debonair owner Simon Whittaker, the discussion will refocus the subject of all things menswear by highlighting the looks and styles that are guaranteed to secure a market share on a competitive high street. Further details are available online at moda-uk.co.uk
BIGGER AND BETTER JANUARY EDITION OF INDX MENSWEAR
Solihull’s Cranmore Park will once again play host to INDX Menswear for its forthcoming January edition. The three-day, buyer-focused show — which runs from 28-30 January, 2018 — will showcase some of the best trends and fashions for the AW18 season in advance of the frantic February buying period. As part of the INDX group of fashion shows, the January edition follows on from the SS18 show last July, and will boast more space in an expanded format, a greater range of brands covering two ground floor showrooms, and a host of domestic and international buyers. The AW18 show will also continue with the highly successful addition of an extra day, making it three days in total, including a Sunday opening to accommodate the demand from both exhibitors and buyers. INDX Menswear will bring together over 100 UK and International brands, whose collections are relevant and proven to perform well in independents. Confirmed exhibitors include the likes of Farah, CasaModa, Wrangler, Original Penguin, Ben Sherman, Joules, Skopes, Wrangler and Jack & Jones; while seasonal accessories from brands such as Calvin Klein, British Boxers, HJ Hall and Jockey will be on display. German trouser brand Meyer, meanwhile, will make INDX Menswear their exclusive UK trade show The extended brand presence at INDX Menswear has become much more significant to the increasing number of
independent retail buyers visiting the show, helping them to make informed decisions when placing their forward and seasonal menswear orders. Brands exhibiting in the most recent edition have been quick to praise the show. “I’ve been attending the menswear show since the early 1980’s and it just keeps expanding and improving,” said Andrew Kells, menswear buyer at SD Kells. “It’s a must for any independent menswear who values the continuing growth of their business.” Ann Felton, buyer at Ulster Stores also highlighted the significance of the show: “The INDX Menswear Show is an important part of my buying calendar. It enables me to meet and place orders with several key suppliers in one location, as well as scout for new opportunities.” Online registration is open to all independent buyers and is completely free including refreshments, lunch and on-site parking. Further details online at indxshow.co.uk/menswear
MENSWEAR in Ireland | 21
TRADE SHOW PREVIEWS
DEDICATED ENTRANCE FOR PURE MAN
Fuelled by its continued growth, UK menswear trade show Pure Man will feature a dedicated entrance for menswear buyers at its forthcoming show, which will take place from 1113 February at London Olympia. Launched in 2016 and now celebrating its fifth season, Pure Man is growing rapidly and is expected to showcase over 100 new and returning menswear brands, which will cover everything from classic to cutting edge menswear, as well as sportswear and accessories. Pure Man serves the growing demand for menswear from fashion retailers, having identified a gap in a market that is expected to grow significantly over the coming years. Showcasing mid to high-end menswear brands offering newness, emerging designers, trend-led designs, back-tobasics essentials, handpicked accessories and footwear, Pure Man has been attracting more and more buyers over the seasons, most appreciating that 70% of the brands are new and/or exclusive to the show. Co-located at Pure London and its new, ancillary sourcing event, Pure Origin, buyers at Pure Man now include retailers expanding into this burgeoning sector, alongside buyers who already carry both genders and for whom the show is
an unrivalled cross-buying opportunity. “Menswear is definitely having a moment and all the indicators are showing exponential growth,” said Adam Gough, Head of Menswear. “We are really excited to have our own dedicated entrance this season and visitors will be welcomed by a host of exciting international and UK brands. We have plenty of Pure Man exclusives too that I’m sure will excite buyers looking for something fresh.” New brands joining an already extensive line-up for February 2018 including Swedish outwear and footwear brand Tretorn, iconic French brand Chevignon and tailoring specialist Lords & Fools pieces. Elsewhere, British shirting company Jack Carter London will be launching its new collection of polo and short sleeve shirts, shorts, trousers, jumpers and jackets. Other menswear brands making their show debut brands include Oliver Strelli, Broker Jeans Spirit, Rupert & Buckley, AVERSE, TAGS, and Turkish brand Avva. A host of returning brands, including Poetica Jeans, Noble Wilde, urban lifestyle label Robot Brands and Barror London, will also be showing their respective designs Pure Man will take place from 11-13 February alongside Pure London and new sourcing event, Pure Origin. Further details are available online at purelondon.com
DIVERSE EXHIBITOR MIX LINED UP FOR INDX WOMENSWEAR & FOOTWEAR SHOW EXCITING PROGRAMME LINED UP FOR AVANTEX PARIS
Launched in 2015 by Messe Frankfurt France, AVANTEX is more than just a professional trade fair - it is truly a gathering. A well-designed programme of events by the show organisers coupled with a strong exhibitor list will ensure that the forthcoming edition — which takes place from 11-14 February, 2018 at Le Bourget, Paris — will, as ever, bring together experts and well-known players in the industry. Over the show’s four days, a packed programme will provide visitors with the need-to-know on everything from fibres to finished products, and will answer the needs of the entire gamut of ‘Fashion Tech’. Avantex Paris will be held concurrently with other Shawls & Scarves Paris, one of Europe’s leading accessories showcases, and Texworld Denim Paris, which will focus on designs and collections in the denim sector. Further information is available online at avantexparis.com
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Taking place from 6-8 February, 2018 in Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre in Solihull, INDX Womenswear & Footwear will provide an informal and professional buying environment, and present a focused exhibitor selection across womenswear, headwear and footwear. Dedicated to meeting the varied requirements of today’s indies and curated by experts in this sector, the three-day show will provide a stylish showcase for leading names, international labels, forward order ranges and short order collections. Brands confirmed for the February edition include Double Two, Ellamoda, Godkse, Levi’s, Michaela Louisa, S.Oliver, Steilmann and Alice Hannah. INDX shows are curated specifically and exclusively for retailers within the independent sector, attracting buyers from department stores, shops and boutiques all across the UK and Ireland. Visitors can avail of complimentary on-site parking, free admission and free exhibition guides, as well as complimentary lunch and refreshments. Further details are available online at indxshow.co.uk/menswear
AGENT PROFILE
THE OTHER SIDE OF WITH OVER TWENTY YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN THE RAG TRADE, WHAT RICHARD FLANAGAN DOESN’T KNOW ABOUT THE INDUSTRY IS PROBABLY NOT WORTH KNOWING.
Crawford Gallery, Cork
The Godfather
Venice Beach, LA
Leonardo DiCaprio Richard Flanagan
Having started out in 1996, when he worked alongside his father, Michael, overseeing the importation and distribution of brands such as Peter England (shirts) and Point of Italy (knitwear), he moved in 2004 to start working with Pal Zileri. A further move, in 2008, saw Flanagan relocate to Dublin 4, where he began working with John Greif at the prestigious fashion agency at 70 Waterloo Road (70waterloo.com). There, he currently looks after a portfolio of blue-chip menswear brands including Baumler, Red Select, Féraud, Lambretta, After Hours, Hiltl, Oscar of Sweden and A Fish Named Fred. Flanagan’s undoubted passion for fashion is balanced by his various out-ofoffice interests. Here he shares an insight into what he enjoys beyond the 9-5. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Crawford Gallery in Cork – the best breakfast anywhere! FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? Venice Beach, Los Angeles.
Brunello Cucinelli
Peaky Blinders
Sing Street 1960 Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato
FAVOURITE TV SHOW? I’ve just finished watching Ozarks and Peaky Blinders on Netflix – both excellent! FAVOURITE FILM? The Godfather (1971) is a classic, but for a more recent movie, I really enjoyed Sing Street (2016). FAVOURITE ACTOR? Leonardo DiCaprio. FAVOURITE BOOK? Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. It’s a bit of an epic, but very enjoyable, nonetheless. FAVOURITE DESIGNER? Brunello Cucinelli. Unfortunately expensive!
FAVOURITE CAR? 1960s Aston Martin. HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB? I like to cook. I also enjoy swimming, walking and playing the guitar (badly). WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME? I love what we’re doing at the moment. If we could grow the brands even more, especially Lambretta and After Hours, I’d be delighted. IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE…. Venice Beach, LA!
MENSWEAR in Ireland | 23
INTERVIEW
LUCKY SEVEN JUST SEVEN YEARS AGO, GUY CLOTHING OPENED FOR BUSINESS IN TULLAMORE UNDER THE WATCHFUL EYE OF OWNERS ANTHONY AND KARA KEARNS. NOT CONTENT WITH TAPPING INTO A BUOYANT MENSWEAR MARKET, THE DYNAMIC DUO HAVE SINCE OPENED TWO ADDITIONAL STORES IN THE CHILDREN’S CLOTHING SECTOR AND LADIES’ AND FOOTWEAR SECTORS, RESPECTIVELY. HERE, ANTHONY KEARNS REVEALS THE THINKING BEHIND HIS FASHION VENTURES, HOW HE KEEPS THE THREE BUSINESS TICKING ALONG, AND HOW HE IS APPROACHING THE FUTURE
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How did you get involved in the fashion industry?
What is your principal target market? Has this always been the case?
Both my wife, Kara, and I had built up many years’ experience in retail – myself, in the grocery side; Kara in ladies’ fashion. We spotted that there was a demand within Tullamore for a men’s store, and from that we put our experience together and opened Guy Clothing. I would be very savvy in terms of the accounts and buying, whereas Kara thrives on the visual aspect of the business, so together we make a great combination for operating within the fashion industry.
Initially, our primary target market was for the everyday casual lifestyle end of the market, catering for the young generation. But within the first year, we developed a large customer base for the formal wear and footwear department; and to cater for both young and old. We reacted quickly to this demand – we began stocking a wide range of suitable brands in order to cater for events such as weddings, graduations and business attire. Further to that, we spotted an opportunity in the plus size section of the market, and so stock sizes up to 9-XL and 64-inch waist.
When did you open for business? Guy Clothing began its journey in October 2010, opening its doors in The Bridge Centre, Tullamore. Opening in the height of a recession was tough, but we believed there was a major gap in the Midlands offering a high level of customer service, quality menswear product at affordable prices. We were confident that we had the correct mix to make it a success. Following on from the successful opening of Guy Clothing, we expanded our offering to the ladies of the midlands, opening KODE Clothing & Footwear in a separate premises in Tullamore in 2010. We also have a kids’ store, K&G Kids, also in Tullamore.
How do you market the shop and attract new customers? We have a considerable budget for marketing where we allocate a large percentage of this to radio advertising and, of late, we have been putting a big emphasis on all social media platforms, such as Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Snap Chat. We are extremely active in our sponsorship of local community and sporting organisations; and have many well-know brand ambassadors, from sporting and entertainment backgrounds, whom we work closely with to advertise our brand on a national scale.
INTERVIEW
Is there much competition from other stores in the area? Being in the centre of Ireland, The Midlands, we are only a short distance to city locations where the customer can find any number of high street and chain stores. However, these stores are unable to match the level of customer we provide. Furthermore, in our newly relocated store, we are able to give our customers a vast shopping space of 8,000 sq. ft. spread over two floors, thereby providing a luxurious shopping experience with over 80 brands throughout clothing, footwear and accessories.
How do you intend on being competitive? We are constantly moving with the everchanging fashion environment. We work hard with our suppliers to secure the best brands and top-quality at the best possible price for our customers. We respond as different trends come and, by way of keeping up with these trends, we travel to many trade shows, including MODA and Panorama, throughout the UK and Europe. We are confident that by offering value for money alongside good shopping experience and putting customer service first that we will always remain competitive.
What is different about your business, compared to your competitors? Have you a Unique Selling Point (USP)? We differ to our competitors in many ways. Firstly, we open seven days a week, with late night shopping on Thursdays and Fridays. We offer our customers a deposit system all year round. We provide an in-store express tailoring service where
customers are provided with their perfect fit every time. We also have an in-house coffee service where customers can ‘sip while you shop’ or while they wait on alterations. We pride ourselves on a very high standard of personal customer service, which our 15 members of staff work tirelessly to maintain, ensuring that our customers are always happy. Kara and I both work on the shop floor every day, which allows us to stay closer to our customer and to remain in touch with their needs and wants.
What are the key brands you sell?
Were there any pivotal decisions that significantly changed the direction of the business?
We are open seven years in October and we have obviously adapted and evolved over the years; but, thankfully, we have grown year on year with double digits recorded each year over the last four years.
We undertook the decision to relocate our store in October of 2014 from a 1,500-sq. ft. unit in the local shopping centre to an 8,000-sq. ft. unit on the main street. This required a major fit-out with specialist design work. We hired James O’Connor of fitout.ie, whom we worked closely with throughout the project. We invested heavily in creating a unique store where the entire building was brought up to a modern time standard where no expense was spared. This new space has resulted in our business growing substantially, and has allowed us to expand our offerings to wedding/formal hire as well as carrying a much wider range of clothing and footwear. James, Kara and I worked tirelessly alongside a designer brought on board to redesign the shop fit and style that we believed would work for our customers and, ultimately, give us the modern and spacious shop which we have today.
In our suit department, we heavily invest in Benetti as our number one suit brand - an Irish company offering precision tailoring and promising fabrics- and also in Gibson & Scott. Fynch Hatton and Eden Park are brands we have invested in for our Smart Casual offering. In our urban and young man’s casual wear, Bee Inspired and Bewley&Ritch are two of our strongest sellers.
How has business been for the store since opening?
What are the most important lessons you’ve learnt in business over the years, and that you have applied to the new store? We knew entering business that you have to work hard, be passionate, enthusiastic and, most of all, love what you do. All of the above is constantly being reaffirmed to us with our daily dealing, both customerand business-wise. Most importantly, customers are number one and they are at the forefront of everything we do.
Having already branched into ladies’ and childrens’ wear and footwear, what’s next on the horizon? We’re opening another branch in Athlone by Autumn 2017 and are planning to launch a new and improved website within the next six months. We’re also constantly reviewing and improving our brand selection with our customer base in mind. MENSWEAR in Ireland | 25
COLLECTION REPORTS
Masculine shades, luxurious fabrics and a diverse mix of stylish casual and formalwear - AW18 ticks all the boxes for covetable menswear.
BRUHL
ALBERTO Alberto launches into AW18 with a free and easy vibe and plenty of momentum. Diversity is the order of the day: fabrics range from cosy wool and flannels to selvedge denims and the newly launched corduroy styles, while a masculine mix of chalk stripes, check, salt and pepper and herringbone designs are all prominent. A muted palette exudes timeless luxury. Key shades include petrol blue, anthracite, grey, navy, brown, green, black, tobacco and ochre. Contrasts are provided by Pistachio and a bright shade of blue. 26 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
The core AW18 collection shows with a clear emphasis on innovation, reflecting Bruhl’s aim of offering trousers with a perfect fit, combined with style, in the best fabrics. New for the season is the sustainable ‘Future Pants’ theme, which features flat and denim, without cotton but with a handle and look like cotton. Both fabrics are equipped with Dual FX as high-stretch, thereby offering high comfort. Additional highlights include Natural Thermo Pants, which have a warming handle function, but without bonding or lining; and Polar Denim, the second generation of denims with microfine polar fleece on the back of the fabric. Trend colours for the season include autumnal burnt tones, khaki, greige and medium blue.
COLLECTION REPORTS BUGATTI A new season ushers in a host of pleasing styles and designs for Bugatti. Modernity is to the fore for the brand’s collection of coats where wool coats display stronger patterning, particularly oversize checks, herringbones and bouclés. Highlights here include the Flexcity theme, which features ultra-comfortable, modern, fitted coats. Cotton/cashmere mixes give a fluffy yet sophisticated feel to a comprehensive knitwear range in which expressive 3-D structures and patterned knits are key pieces. Shirts, meanwhile, adhere to a relaxed yet smart theme, and are based around a palette of pale naturals and shades of blue and rusty red. In addition to Bugatti’s formal styles, AW18 sees the launch of suits in the relaxed WASH & WEAR series, which are available as a complete suit or as separates.
GORDON SHANNY Phone: 061 349090 · Fax: 061 341366 Mobile: 086 815 4555 · E-mail: gordonshanny@eircom.net www.c-bruehl.com MENSWEAR in Ireland | 27
COLLECTION REPORTS
CAMEL ACTIVE AW18 is a season of contrasts for Camel Active. Freshly interpreted, tailored classics meet innovative sportswear materials and heavily treated workwear, resulting in a clean look that combines casual tailoring with functional details, different material combinations and hybrid solutions. Pattern takes centre stage this season: multicoloured Ikat intarsia, travel and library checks feature alongside preppy stripes and athletic folk impressions. Camouflage is used in the background on accessories and in the linings of jackets, as are subtle all-over prints in garments. Outerwear impresses with its diversity: new Parka styles are clean and have fewer pockets, while college blousons made from lambskin leather add a retro touch. Sports academy and folk themes characterise shirts and knitwear. Traditional college sweatshirts in US university colours are the season’s masculine all-rounders, while check shirts boast a new look with assorted multi-colour placements, a wide range of proportions and geometries, and heavily washed materials.
CARL GROSS A progressive AW18 collection ushers in a wealth of change for suiting. Checks are predominant - fine Vichy checks, subtly coloured Madras, window checks and houndstooth patterns – and have been freshly reinterpreted through new blends, bouclé, kemp and knit looks and coloured inserts. In terms of silhouette, the fitted look is maintained in narrow two-button model for jackets and blazers, whether in the Modern-Fit or Sharp-Fit variant. Wider lapels and trousers with waistband pleats modify the silhouettes and looks subtly yet significantly. The range remains as soft, lightweight and comfortable as possible. Sporty elegant coats such as short paletot types in blurred herringbone designs and car coats in window checks are some of the highlights in outerwear. Elsewhere, roll-neck sweaters, round-necks and turtlenecks are stylish alternatives to shirts. A homogeneous bicolour look pervades the collection. Grey, black and navy are paramount, while shades such as caramel, camel and chocolate provide flair. 28 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
Inspired by retrospect, Milestone’s designers have filtered and mixed unconventional styles, and continue to focus on slimmer silhouettes, which offer a high degree of comfort. Premium lambskin and sheepskin fabrics are used for the timeless/classic style, while innovative washed materials are key for sportier models. Flexible and rich fabrics and textured surfaces are predominant. Street style influences the sporty trends and their accents, and is evident through patterns, weaving textures, and tiny jacquards, which are a colourful mixture of fantasy and comfort. A broad palette incorporates orange, camel, purple cacao and deep brown, as well as navy blue tones. Lively accent colours add further visual interest. The clean look is enhanced by smooth cotton and synthetic fibre fabrics.
Derek Eakin Ltd, Shercock Road, Cootehill, Co. Cavan P: 00 353 49555 2285 M: 00 353 87699 2865 E: jony@derekeakin.com www.chriscayne.com MENSWEAR in Ireland | 29
COLLECTION REPORTS
MILESTONE
COLLECTION REPORTS
DOUGLAS
CHRIS CAYNE AW18 sees Chris Cayne utilise a mix of the brand’s most successful fabrics, with innovative structured fabrics, floral prints and micro patterns, which are showcased on a diverse range of stylish yet comfortable shirts, cardigans, pullovers and polos. The seasonal palette incorporates traditional colours such as navy, leather and cognac, which are teamed with bright winter shades such as pomegranate and burnt ochre, as well as bright highlights. AW18’s artwork and details, meanwhile, are inspired by college and nautical sports.
Inspired by the Zen-like simplicity of modernist architecture, coupled with a progressive appreciation of heritage fabric design, Douglas has created a uniquely modern yet uncomplicated collection for AW18. Renowned heritage fabric mills deliver up-to-date takes on fabrics such as tweeds in Donegal, Prince of Wales check and Herringbone patterns, while a strong knitwear line — which incorporates shawl collars, turtlenecks and full- and half-zip sweaters — utilises cashmere and lambswool. Elsewhere, Tencel, a natural fabric with innate crease-resistance qualities, is put to use in shirting. A broad palette sees deep masculine tones of rich navy, grey and mid-blue balanced by earthy accent shades of burgundy, khaki and cashew, which come through in trim details and co-ordinating shirting and knitwear.
COLLECTION REPORTS EDEN PARK Once again, Eden Park has mixed its signature trademarks with the latest trends to create an impressive collection for the new AW season. A fresh aesthetic for AW18 sees the brand combining traditional French tailoring and workmanship with more urban looks to infuse its essentials with a fresh, contemporary spirit. Emphasis is placed on comfort as well as style, while subtle detailing is notable throughout.
AW
18
MODERN. URBAN. FUNCTIONAL.
Lynch Agencies Paul Lynch 62A Lower Camden St IRL-Dublin 2 M: +35 38 71 46 65 28 paul@lynchagencies.net
www.s4-jackets.com MENSWEAR in Ireland | 31
COLLECTION REPORTS
ETERNA With new colours, fabrics and colour combinations, Eterna’s AW18 collection reflects the spirit of the times. The trend toward a more casual look requires an uncomplicated, soft look and feel, as well as a sense of well-being. The ‘Colourful Life’ range, for example, offers a light, cuddly twill in rich autumnal colours such as curry, burgundy, forest green and denim blue. The Young Flannel range, meanwhile, combines mélange yarns with bold primary colours in new checks, softly brushed for enhanced comfort. Likewise, jersey and corduroy shirts sport a soft, warm surface. The trend toward a more casual look pushes shortened torso lengths in the City range and adds to the layered look. The pullover shirt in a denim look in a new silhouette, meanwhile, serves as a trendy casual shirt.
GURTEEN Available through Tony Donnelly, Gurteen’s AW18 collection blends fashion with commerciality. Jackets impress with their diversity, appearing in assorted styles from plains to semi-plains and tweeds. Pure wool jackets with colourful linings and smart buttons are a particular highlight. Trousers are similarly diverse for AW18, encompassing needle cord and stretch cord as well as cotton prints in narrow silhouettes and the everpopular Longford stretch waistband chino. Shirting, meanwhile, sees a vast range of style available in both cotton and poly cotton options.
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Both classical and casual in style, Sea Barrier’s new range is inspired by city living. Available from Derek Eakin Ltd., the Italian brand has used comfortable textiles and materials to produce a highly wearable range with an emphasis on attractive detailing and competitive pricing. The collection — which is designed to have broad appeal across the menswear market —comprises jackets, outerwear, trousers, jeans and shirts, well as polo shirts and beachwear, allowing for a completely coordinated look in men’s fashion.
COLLECTION REPORTS
SEA BARRIER
Autumn/ Winter 2018 now showing. Talmarc Clothing Ltd 242 Blanchardstown Corporate Park 2 Blanchardstown Dublin 15 Ireland Office: +353 1 88 55515 Fax: +353 1 88 55536 Mobile: +353 86 252 4707 Email: talmarcsales@eircom.net MENSWEAR in Ireland | 33 www. milestone-jackets.com
COLLECTION REPORTS
OLYMP The new AW18 season sees new yarn developments such as mélanges or moulinés create lustre and special effects. Reconfigured paisley patterns and floral-inspired prints create visual interest, while motif prints are positioned or printed on structures. Checks, meanwhile, are highly coloured with gradients or completely classic, for instance, appearing in the form of Glen checks. Highlights include the new Level Five smart business shirt, which has a body-fit design and boasts finishing details associated with traditional shirt production such as collar stiffener pockets, short seam stitch lengths and very soft collars. Assorted colours provide the foundation of the collection. Cool, technical blue and grey tones are accentuated by purple and neon yellow. Elsewhere, dark red, blue and aqua green are combined with muted rosé and cognac.
CG-CLUB OF GENTS Inspired by the Brit-Pop lifestyle, the AW18 collection takes its cue from the Eighties and Nineties, creating a dedicated identity and a consistent, visible brand message. Checks are hugely significant for the season, appearing in various newly interpreted check types — such as Black Watch, Prince of Wales check, shadow check and large-format window check, which emphasis the Brit-Pop aesthetic — in threepiece suits and single-breasted jackets, either with patch pockets or with flaps. Chalky pinstripes, in a wide range of formats, are also prominent. Discreet awning stripes in British shading complete the patterns of the classic garments. Multicolour overchecks in discreet colours alternate in shirting with a variety of minimalist designs, mostly against a dark background, down to fine houndstooth patterns, melange stripes with coloured chenille inserts and floral all-over prints. 34 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
The deepening, immersive relationship between man and nature is provides Remus Uomo’s inspiration for AW18. Organically forming geometrics are a recurring motif in print and jacquard patterns. Coupled with the manmade geometry of stripes, these form the major pattern theme of the range. Layering is at the core of the collection: lightweight jackets are styled under overcoats while ‘overshirts’ double as outerwear. Casual suiting sees suit jackets with softer shoulder lines and casual trim details paired with feature trousers and worn with knitwear for a new take on the office uniform. Tailored coats show a similarly relaxed edge, with softer lines and jersey fabrics part of a collection that also features quilted and bomber-style jackets. The seasonal palette sees cobalt, ink blue and cloud grey accented by earthy burgundy and port red, while olive and moss greens continue the nature theme.
STAND 2.19
COLLECTION REPORTS
REMUS UOMO
SMART WINTER
AUTUMN/WINTER 2018 NOW SHOWING.
Talmarc Clothing Ltd 242 Blanchardstown Corporate Park 2, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland Office: +353 1 88 55515 Fax: +353 1 88 55536 Mobile: +353 86 252 4707 Email: talmarcsales@eircom.net
www.alberto-pants.com MENSWEAR in Ireland | 35
COLLECTION REPORTS S4 JACKETS For AW18, S4 Jackets remains true to itself while at the same time taking things up a notch. Smart outer fabrics, premium-quality materials, clean contoured cuts and stylish extras define the collection. Casual, bulky quilted jackets in short cuts appear alongside trendy mediumlength and long parkas with stylish fakefur collar trims in the Retro Sports and Athleisure Wear lines. Fashion highlights include classic pea coats and smart single and double-breasted wool coats. Advanced textiles are notable throughout the range. PrimaLoft padding ensures warmth and comfort, which is enhanced by windproof, rib knit cuffs on the sleeves and highfastening stand-up collar designs. Distinctive nuances of blue and elegant mĂŠlange fabrics setting the colour tone: from cool ice blue and sapphire to dark navy and elegant shades of grey, spanning silver to anthracite. Warm, natural tones are also important. 36 | MENSWEAR in Ireland
SEIDENSTICKER The central idea of the AW18 collection is based on three stylistic mindsets, each with a strong visual identity reflecting the important facets of an increasingly global culture of taste. The first basic attitude harmonises modernity and a sense of tradition for a more formal look in which sartorial aspects and perfect proportions are key. The second, marked by an openness to various influences, mixes classic and more relaxed elements. The third, meanwhile, focuses on the coexistence of authenticity and well-informed sportiness. These three mentalities form the basic structural framework of the collection, and play a role in all five core themes. They function in a self-contained manner, as well as overlapping with each other in an exciting and well thought-out way. The collection is divided into three coordinated colour schemes, each of which is accompanied by a neutralizing palette of grey mĂŠlanges.
18–20 February 2018 NEC Birmingham
Apply to exhibit or register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk
JANUARY 2018
INDX MENSWEAR
A BESPOKE TRADE SHOW FOR INDEPENDENT RETAILERS
MENSWEAR IN IRELAND
28 - 30 January 2018
free entry free refreshments free lunch free parking
register now www.indxshow.co.uk
• Arena • Ashwood Leathers • Atelier Torino • Baileys • Ben Sherman • Boardmans • Bown of London • British Boxers • Bruhl • B.Bros • Buckle 1922 • Calvin Klein* • camel active • Casamoda • Chris Cayne • Colours & Sons • Comfy Balls • Crew Clothing • Digel • Double Two (Paradigm - Bar Harbour) • Duke • Failsworth • Farah Classic • Farah Jeans • Fraas • Fulton • Fynch Hatton • Gabicci Classic • Gabicci Vintage • Geox • Giordano • Glenmuir • Guide London • Gurteen • Hatico • hattric • Herbie Frogg • HJ Hall • Hunt & Holditch • Jack & Jones • Jockey • John White Shoes • Joules • Just Sheepskin • Knightsbridge • Levi’s* • Lizard King • LA Smith • Maddox Street • Mag Mouch and Sophos • Meyer • MMX • Musto • Oakman • Olymp • ONLY & Sons • Original Penguin • Osan (Pringle/Jeff Banks/Glenmuir)* • Pasquale Cutarelli • Peter England • Peter Gribby • Pure • Redpoint • Rich Friday • Rocola • Rupert & Buckley • Saint Hilaire • Scott by The Label • Seidensticker • Selected • Skopes • s.Oliver • The British Bag Company • Thomas Kirkwood • Tilley • Tootal • Totes • Trapper Leathers • Tresanti • Trespass • Venti • Viyella • Weird Fish • Wrangler *socks/underwear
Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF | T: 0121 683 1417