Futura/Menswearin ireland/footwearinireland

FASHION FORECAST

THE LEADING TRENDS FOR AW17/18

SHOWTALK PREVIEWS OF THE KEY TRADE SHOWS

REDUCED TO CLEAR! RETAILERS’ EXPERIENCES OF THE CHRISTMAS SALES

IN THE SPOTLIGHT HOW FASHION IS SHAPING UP FOR AW17/18

FEBRUARY 2017

A R U T FU

S E E S KO PES MENSWEAR AT M O DA 2 0 17 A W 17 C O L L E C T I O N

1 9 T H - 2 1S T FEB RUARY NEC BIRMINGHAM

STAN D N3 0

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EDITOR’S LETTER

A

s a new month begins, so another issue. Our February edition is a fusion of Menswear, Futura and Footwear in Ireland, providing you with the essential need-toknow from the fashion sector at large.

The fashion focus this issue, as in January, is on the AW 17/18 season. The concluding part of our Style File, which rounds up previews of the leading men’s, ladies’ and footwear collections, coupled with various trend reports will provide you with a great insight into how things are likely to unfold, fashionwise, over the coming months.

The Christmas sales may now be over but they are always a helpful barometer of the market. As such, we’ve spoken with 12 retailers from the men’s, ladies’ and footwear sectors to find out how their respective sales went, what sold well and what was slow to shift. The responses, as ever, are fascinating.

Our two interviews come from opposite sides of the country. On P.24, Darren Guest of Pinstripe Punk in Dundalk reveals how he turned his retail dream into reality less than 18 months ago. On P.36, meanwhile, the brains behind Co. Clare’s popular Nozomi shoe store, Mary Ryan, reflects on her business’ success over the years and looks ahead to an exciting future.

Other highlights in this issue include a 2-page edition of Showtalk, which covers the key forthcoming trade shows, and a comprehensive news section to keep you up-to-date on events in the fashion sector.

Enjoy the read!

Alexander Alexander Fitzgerald Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie

CONTENTS

4 NEWS

The latest from the fashion industry at home and abroad

14 SCALING NEW HEIGHTS

The key trends in AW17 ladieswear

16 SHOWTALK

Previews of the leading trade shows

18 REDUCED TO CLEAR

Retailers share their experiences of the recent Christmas sales

22 THE OTHER SIDE OF

How Neal McCotter spends his time outside the 9-5

24 UPTOWN PUNK

Interview with Pinstripe Punk’s Darren Guest

26 SEPARATING THE WHEAT FROM THE CHAFF

The leading trends in men’s separates for AW17

28 SOLE PURPOSE

Trends in ladies’, men’s and kids’ AW17 footwear

35 THE OTHER SIDE OF

Footwear agent Marcus Baker on how he spends his downtime

36 THE PERFECT FIT

Interview with Nozomi’s Mary Ryan

38 STARTING OVER

How 6 footwear retailers fared during the Christmas sales

40 STYLE FILE

Previews of men’s, ladies’ and footwear collections for AW17

published by: Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main St., Rathfarnham, Dublin 14. Tel: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 email: mail@futuramagazine.ie web: www.futuramagazine.ie

Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre features editor: Alexander Fitzgerald sales & marketing manager: Avril Smith, avril@futuramagazine.ie assistant editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue printing: Swift Print Solutions © 2017 Sky Publishing. All Editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publisher.

2 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

Cover: Douglas AW17/18

SHOE.COM GMBH & CO. KG MEMBER OF WORTMANN-GROUP PETER CALVEY PHONE: +353 (0)877 661 928 PETER.CALVEY@SOLIVER-SHOES.COM WWW.SOLIVER-SHOES.COM

NEWS

NEWS RETAIL EXCELLENCE RELEASES CHRISTMAS TRADING STATEMENT Retail Excellence has released its report on sales during the month of December, and the verdict is somewhat mixed for the fashion industry.

During the initial 16 days of December, the ladieswear sector demonstrated extreme volatility with the overall sector being down. However, it was also revealed that businesses embracing social media have been experiencing a sizeable boost.

According to the report, there were “a small number of stores reporting marginal likefor-like gains. It is noticeable that the stores demonstrating growth are those who have placed emphasis on social media.

“These stores report that social media is now a key factor and a large volume of sales are generated by Facebook posts and snapchat blogs.”

Additionally, the report acknowledged that November was a tough month for ladieswear retailers, noting that customers were visibly waiting on Black Friday. They recognised that some businesses in this sector made a conscious decision not to participate in Black Friday, believing that it was important to maintain established sales period for their loyal customer base.

“Some stores reported that trade dropped off two to three weeks before Black Friday as people knew the discounts were coming. There is significant nervousness in the sector with many national operators entering into pre-Christmas sales this week.”

For the period, 17 – 22 December, the ladies fashion sector continued to struggle except where stores had gone into sale, it seems.

“The sale sign in windows is a magnet to the

ARNOTTS USHERS IN SPRING AND SUMMER There was a fashionable turnout at the recent launch of the Arnotts S/S ‘17 collections. Spring at the Henry Street department store is set to bring a fusion of dramatic and bold colours with a hint of summer romance, as well as stunning prints which were seen throughout the event.

Attendees at the event included a selection 4 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

Irish lady who is now totally discount driven.

Again, Black Friday is being cited for destroying sales figures in this the final week up to Christmas.

However, stores who have gone into sale mode are meeting targets but margins, of course, are the victims. This is a trend which follows through both in urban and rural areas.”

In terms of footwear, overall, the sector was trading down on this time last year. The reports highlighted that there was good footfall at the weekends but retailers found it a challenge to translate this into sales.

“As in other areas of retail, online is becoming a key challenge in the footwear sector with many stores who provide an online service reporting a marginal upward trend. Some stores report that the brakes were put on in the run up to Black Friday and although many reported good trading on the day, the sector has been very quiet since then.

“Some stores have made a conscious decision to stay away from participating in Black Friday instead choosing to go into sale in line with standard sales periods.”

The report discovers that in the week leading up to Christmas, the footwear sector experienced very mixed trading conditions.

All in all, the only shining light came in the menswear sector. After a soft quarter three period,

of influencers, including Ciara O’Doherty, Holly White, Leanne Woodfull and Rosemary MacCabe, as well as key media and stylists such as Corina Gaffey, Courtney Smith and Ingrid Hoey. Arnotts Womenswear Fashion Director, Valerie O’Neill, and Arnotts MD, Donald McDonald, were also in attendance.

Fashion brands showcased at the event included new brands Suncoo, Maison Scotch and Karen Millen, while other brands featured included Ganni, Whistles, Tara Jarmon, Marella, Part Two, Pinko, Hugo by Hugo Boss, Strenesse and Marc O’Polo.

menswear began to bounce back. However, there has been a pronounced divide in the level this bounce, with county towns performing very strongly with a fine ‘shop local’ mentality whereas the cities and shopping centres have been slower to witness such improvements due to the high density of competition.

“The mild weather conditions have certainly not helped matters in selling seasonal clothing and this has contributed to the sluggish sales,” the report explains. “The older demographic continues to be one of the best performing cohorts in this category, and with many younger male emigrants yet to come home for Christmas, they will provide a needed boost in sales as they ‘shop local’.

Overall, this sector is trading up, just about.”

Between 17 – 22 December, menswear continued to perform strongly albeit with average transaction values getting smaller as shoppers seek out last-minute presents. On the downside, winter stock continued to perform very poorly with the mild weather not helping and customers anticipating huge reductions post-Christmas.

“Accessories, footwear and smart blazers perform well as shoppers look to dress up for Christmas parties and festive occasions. More emigrants have arrived home now with a sizeable spend on weather appropriate clothing. Winter weddings continue to help drive growth in the sector.”

Cathy O’Connor and Clara Halpin at the launch of Arnotts’ Spring/Summer 2017 womenswear collections

Autumn Winter Collection 2017 www.michaelalouisa.com

MODA UK - Birmingham - Stand T31 February 19 th - 21st 2017

C o n t a c t G r a c e G l o v e r , u n i t 4 3 F a s h i o n C i t y, B a l l y m o u n t , D u b l i n 2 4 . T 0 8 7 6 2 0 3 2 8 5 . E g r a c e m c g o v e r n @ e i r c o m . n e t

NEWS

Godske Group’s new showroom at 41A Fashion City

Liam Lacey, Sales Manager at 41A, Fashion City.

NEW 2ND SHOWROOM AT 41A FASHION CITY FOR GODSKE GROUP. Q'Neel is one of several labels on display in Unit 41A

Godske Group continues to operate from its original showroom at Unit 5 Fashion City

DUNDALK RETAILERS ATTEMPT TO COMBAT CROSS-BORDER SHOPPING According to a recent article in AFP, Dundalk, one of Louth’s principle towns, is feeling the effects of Brexit. With a population of close to 40,000 making it one of the largest towns in the country 6 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

Unit 5 Fashion City

there was much cause for concern in the latter part of 2016 following a mass exodus across the border to take advantage of the weak sterling.

However, ill-prepared to admit defeat, retailers in Dundalk fought back with gift vouchers – an alternative currency aimed at boosting local shopping. Dundalk Chamber of Commerce chairman Michael Gaynor explained to AFP: “The vouchers allow businesses to give their employees up to €500 as a Christmas bonus tax-free, making it a win for employers, a win for employees and a win for local businesses. Sterling is about 10 per cent lower against the euro

The Godkse Group has opened a second showroom at Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24.

Overseen by sales manager Liam Lacey, who was recently welcomed to the Godske Group team, the Danish company’s new premises, No. 41A, is showing collections from a host of the Danish fashion company’s brands, including Godske Classic, Q’Neel, That’s Me, Refa, Molly Jo and La Fame.

The Godske Group continues to operate from its original, longstanding Fashion City showroom at No.5, where Niall Scanlan and Aileen McKay are currently showing the company’s other fashion brands, which include Robell, Habella, Jorli, Kirsten Krog Design, Tia and Frandsen..

compared to before the 23 June referendum.

“The Dundalk vouchers are available online or from the Dundalk Chamber of Commerce’s office and can be obtained either by individuals as regular gift vouchers for Christmas presents or by employers for bonuses.”

As 2016 was drawing to close, vouchers to the value of more than €300,000 had been purchased with the chamber of commerce expecting this to reach over €500,000 by early January.

The border has always proven problematic for retailers in counties like Louth as Northern Ireland has always been in a position to offer more competitive prices.

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7 Futura Magazine | May/June 2016

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 7

NEWS

ILAC CENTRE’S REVAMP IRELAND TO DUE TO BE REVEALED REINFORCE THIS SUMMER STABILITY AS BREXIT TAKES PLACE Work has commenced on Dublin’s Ilac Centre, which will see the addition of five new units to the popular shopping destination. Jointly owned by Hammerson and Irish Life, the results of the revamp are due to be unveiled to customers in June.

Located adjacent to Henry Street, the centre boasts the A-Z of retail brands including H&M, River Island and Dunnes Stores.

The development comes with a tab of €1.5 million and will serve to house the new arrivals, BB’s Coffee & Muffins, book retailer The Works, So Nutrition, and specialist catering equipment retailer, Nisbets.

In an interview ahead of the World Economic Forum, IDA chief executive Martin Shanahan reinforced the message that Ireland is a country that is stable “in every sense” of the word.

“The message we will be getting across…is that Ireland continues to be an extremely attractive place to invest,” Mr Shanahan revealed.

“We will be highlighting the strong run of investment that we have had [over] the last couple of years. We will be highlighting the strong economic performance that Ireland has had in the past three years, the strongest within Europe.

“And we will, in the context of Brexit, be highlighting Ireland’s stability as a country in every sense, particularly our stability where it comes to our policy approach to enterprise. We will be highlighting the attractiveness of Ireland in a postBrexit world”.

A recent global report revealed that Ireland ranked as 12th for attracting, training and retaining educated, skilled workers.

However, the report by HR firm Adecco also warned that while Ireland is a magnet for foreign talent, it lags behind in formal education and in “preventing the brain drain of its own top workers”.

“Investors are now clear that the UK will leave the single market,” said Mr Shanahan. “That makes it all the more important that we highlight Ireland’s attractiveness and its continued access to the European market.

“The fact that we are English speaking, have a common law system and then all the traditional attributes that we have around the availability of talent, competitiveness, a consistent taxation regime. We will be making sure that companies are well aware of that.”

PLANNED €150M AW17 HERALDS LIFFEY VALLEY PROJECT POTENTIALLY SIGNIFICANT TRANSITION FOR IN JEOPARDY DOUGLAS An extension to West Dublin’s popular shopping centre Liffey Valley - said to be in the region of €150 million - will face uncertainty should An Bord Pleanála reject a multi-storey carpark planned as part of development, which will also include an Olympicsized ice rink, additional retail and restaurant space.

Speaking on behalf of Liffey Valley, the centre’s director, Denis O’Connell, told the press that the ambitious project will face review should they not receive the green light for the carpark.

An Bord Pleanála has become involved in the deciding the fate of the expansion after the council originally refused permission for the multi-storey carpark that would allow 1,800 vehicles to be parked.

Liffey Valley, which attracted 8.6 million people last year, was acquired in December for €630 million on behalf of Germany’s largest public pensions group, Bayersche Versorgungskammer.

Hines, a US investment firm and former part-owner of the centre, continues to act as Development Manager for the centre.

8 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

Douglas, the premium menswear label from brand house Douglas & Grahame, has launched its latest collection with a move towards a more contemporary look and feel. The progression represents a subtle change to the core design aesthetic, yet is one that signals the beginning of a significant transition for the brand.

“Douglas has always been a popular brand but as men’s attitude to fashion changes, we evolve and grow ahead of those trends,” said Adam Finlay, Creative Director. “Our latest collection demonstrates a more modern sensibility in the brand’s design and is a natural evolution of our offering towards a look which is mature and considered yet contemporary for Douglas in 2017.”

Debuting the new aesthetic direction, the Douglas collection for AW17 features a contemporary mix of fabrics in tailoring and shirting, and sees the pattern story, colour palette and styling notes of the range

Douglas AW17

updated to highlight the more progressive aspect of the brand and appeal to a wider audience.

“We’re very excited by the new look Douglas and are confident the market will be too,” said Finlay. “Our new season lookbook really showcases the range to full effect.”

The new Douglas AW collection can be viewed by appointment at any of the company’s premium showrooms in Manchester, London, Northern Ireland, Dublin, or at the brand’s Midlands headquarters in Shenstone in the UK.

NEWS

NEW COMPANY LOGO FOR CAPRICE DUBLIN GAA DRESS TO IMPRESS WITH BENETTI Continuing its successful sponsorship of the all-conquering Dublin GAA team, menswear label Benetti is ensuring that the All-Ireland Champions cut a dash off, as well as on, the pitch.

CLERYS REDEVELOPMENT FACES OBJECTIONS Some 18 months after its sudden closure, planning permission has been granted to the new owner of Clery’s Department Store for redevelopment - news

The suit specialist’s designs, which are cut in an elegant contemporary fit that complements the physique of the athletes, have proved particularly with the players.

As the holders of the Sam Maguire, the boys in blue will, for a second successive year, be the immaculately-dressed ambassadors for the Irishdesigned Benetti brand.

The current AW17 Benetti range is available from stock at Gosson Agencies showroom in Dublin.

that has been ill-received by former workers of the O’Connell Street clothing emporium.

Natrium, the current owner, has been given the green light by Dublin City Council to proceed with proposals for a new, mixed-use development on the site, which will differ greatly from its previous sartorial incarnation. The revamped premises will now comprise of offices, retail units, leisure facilities and a boutique hotel. There were 28 conditions attached to the Council’s approval.

While many of the 460 formers employees are understood to be objecting to the planning permission in writing, Natrium said in a statement that it aimed to collaborate with Dublin City Council to ensure the redevelopment delivered “significant economic benefits for north inner-city Dublin” - notably, generating employment in the area.

Footwear specialist Caprice has announced that starting from the AW17 sales period, the company’s logo will have more elegance, clearer lines and a custom-made font to underline Caprice’s successful transformation to a higher fashion level over the past few years.

Together with the internationally renowned graphic and design agency Pentagram, which has designed logos for Mastercard and Star Alliance besides many other top shelf brands, the Germanbased shoe manufacturer developed an update of the current trademark.

While the characteristics of the old logo remain, the visual modernisation adequately expresses the future corporate direction. Trend-conscious designs in combination with high-quality materials and the values of the long shoemaker tradition of the company continue to form the basis of every Caprice shoe.

“Our decision to continuously improve our products and react to the ever changing requirements of the market in a thoughtful way was proven to be the right choice,” explained Jürgen Cölsch, managing director of Caprice.

“The success of our last collections shows that we are on the right path and that our design and quality enhancement measurements are being recognised by our customers. Now is the perfect moment to set the tracks for the future and upgrade our corporate design.”

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 9

NEWS

MESSE DÜSSELDORF TRANSFERS SHOE FASHION TO THE IGEDO COMPANY The 2017 edition of GDS, which takes place from 7-9 February, represents the final time that the show will be held at the Messe Düsseldorf site.

For subsequent editions of the show, the Igedo Company will act, on behalf of Messe Düsseldorf, as the organiser of the shoe trade show. This new concept will kick off at Düsseldorf’s Areal Böhler venue in late August/early September, 2017.

Over the past few years GDS and tag it! have been elaborately redesigned in close cooperation with the shoe sector. Although there was a great deal of support for the new concept from all sides, the expectations made of the new GDS have not been fulfilled – something which Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President & CEO at Messe Düsseldorf, attributes to the changes in the shoe sector.

“The sector has radically changed over the past few years and the pace has picked up again. The major event, that GDS has been for over six decades, no longer seems to be the right format for the current challenges within the shoe sector,” said Dornscheidt.

“For this reason we are now taking consistent action with new responsibilities and a new venue.

My thanks go to the great GDS and tag it! team headed up by Kirstin Deutelmoser who have been committed to our shoe trade shows with great dedication and many innovative ideas.”

Kirstin Deutelmoser also sees switching the footwear trade show to the Igedo Company as an opportunity for the sector: “The market is acting ever more dynamically and requires a completely new solution. This can only be successful if it can

be fundamentally rethought without having to take existing structures and traditions into consideration.

For this the Igedo Company is the ideal partner.”

Following the February edition of GDS, Messe Düsseldorf will transfer its responsibility for its shoe trade show to the Igedo Company.

Managing Partner Philipp Kronen is looking forward to offering the shoe sector a new home at Areal Böhler: “I am confident the sector will look favourably on a new concept at such an emotionally-charged location as Areal Böhler.

Furthermore, we have an experienced project manager in the form of Ulrike Kähler who will rise to the challenge of a redesigned shoe fair. After all, she has already proven with Gallery Fashion how a good orders show works at Areal Böhler.”

OLYMP REPORTS STRONG GROWTH DESPITE WEAK MARKET CONDITIONS

The decision to extend their range with the new Olymp No. Six super slim shirt has contributed towards this growth, and since its introduction onto the market in mid-2016, this decision has certainly paid off. The success of this innovation, which offers a super slim shirt for sporty and stylish Marc Bezner, men, is reflected in CEO of Olymp these extremely positive sales figures.

Mark Bezner continued: “Overall, it has been a very challenging financial year. In addition to our most important sales market in Germany, we were also able to record growths in turnover in many export regions such as France, Ireland, the Netherlands, Austria, Switzerland and Hungary.

“Even in the CIS states, the situation, fortunately, seems to becoming a bit more relaxed.

After our business partners, especially in Russia and the Ukraine, had behaved cautiously in the previous season in the course of the political differences and the massive devaluation of the national currency, the situation regarding the early orders for the 2017 spring collection has improved somewhat again and we were able to record slight increases in the order intake.”

CHRISTIAN BÖHM APPOINTED AS FURTHER MANAGING DIRECTOR OF WENDEL

In 2016, Germany’s Olymp achieved an increase in turnover of six per cent. By the year’s end, the clothing company had generated revenues of €250.4 million, up from €237.0 million in 2015. Furthermore, the number of employees has increased by 51 to 810 in Germany and Austria.

The manufacturer, which produces men’s shirts, polos, ties, T-shirts and knitted garments, has also recorded increased pre-order figures in Russia.

Mark Bezner, owner and CEO of OLYMP Bezner KG, had the following to say: “The difficult overall conditions experienced by those who currently operate in the clothing sector are being felt by both industry and commerce alike. The latest media reports were dominated by insolvencies, redundancies, store closures, declines in profits, decreased sales, restructuring measures or similar negative issues.

“Despite this general negative trend, we have grown and are extremely pleased with the increase in sales achieved in view of the surrounding crisis conditions.”

10 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

From 1 June, Christian Böhm will assume the position of Head of Sales and Marketing of Wendel. In this role, the 35-year-old will report to the company’s CEO, Carsten Humke.

Böhm has been working for the subsidiary of the Detmold-based group, Wortmann, since August 2008 with responsibility for sales and marketing of the Marco Tozzi brand. In June 2015, he assumed the position of Head of Sales, which meant he was in charge of the entire Wendel sales team including office and field staff. With the newly created role of Head of Sales and Marketing, Mr Böhm is, in particular, also responsible for the further expansion of the Marco Tozzi brand.

To significantly raise awareness of the brand, the new consumer campaign, which will start at the beginning of the S/S’17 season, will initially be launched in Germany alone, and will then be expanded to cover further markets in the following years.

MICAM 12.02.–15.02. hall 7, K04-K06 • MODA Footwear 19.02.–21.02. hall 17, C20

Wortmann Group Int. Schuhproduktionen, Detmold · Phone: +49 52 31 605.129 · Fax: +49 52 31 605.5.129 · E-mail: sales@wortmann.com · wortmann.com Tamaris Ireland · David Coogan · 10, Shrewsbury Manor · Drogheda, Co. Louth · Phone: +353 41 9847369 · Mobile: +353 86 2779480 · E-mail: david.coogan@wortmann.com · tamaris.com

NEWS

OLDER WOMEN DRIVE DEMAND FOR QUALITY CLOTHING New research from Mintel suggests that ladies north of 55 are currently the driving force in fashion, and are set to be the fastest-growing demographic over the next five years. Their preference for style and quality over low prices bodes well for the value of the market.

According to findings in the report, 44 per cent of women over the age of 55 stated that they would like more stylish clothes for their age. This compares impressively to an average of 32 per cent of all women.

The data emphasises the fact that women of this vintage are drawn to high-quality items with almost 75 per cent of respondents citing product quality in clothing as important - notably higher than the 55 per cent of 16-24s.

In terms of purchases, the research also showed that nearly nine in ten women over the age of 55 have purchased clothing over the past year with four in ten having bought three or four different product styles.

PATENTED INSOLE

BY TAMARIS REVOLUTIONISES WALKING ON HIGH HEELS Tamaris is claiming to have discovered the secret to perfect high heels and is now set to reveal its discoveries to the world.

Developed with

12 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

44 per cent of women over the age of 55 would like more stylish clothes for their age

Another interesting discovery was related to sizing. Almost 25 per cent of ladies in this category wear clothes in size 18, 20 and over. As a result, a number of new specialist retailers have recently launched into the market to cater for the often neglected plus-size category.

According to Mintel, overall sales of womenswear grew by 3.7 per cent to reach £26.9 billion in 2015 with the market forecast to break through the £30 billion mark by 2019.

orthopaedists, Heart & Sole is a patented insole that provides a solution for women who like to wear high heels in everyday life.

“We want to let every woman feel sexy and feminine in high heels without experiencing discomfort,” says Ellen Haselaars, Innovation Manager at Tamaris. “All they need is the right insole in their shoes.

“Let’s admit it: shoes are close to the hearts of women everywhere!”

Haselaars got together with orthopaedists to identify three areas of the sole that stop any pressure points from placing a burden on the foot.

The first area eases any pain in the ball of the foot where most women feel the pressure while the second point supports the natural arch of the foot.

The third area helps to spread the weight evenly across the high heels and therefore to take the strain off the ball. The velours insole itself ensures perfect wearability owing to its flexible and shockabsorbent materials.

There are 17 models in the first Heart & Sole collection and they will be launched in the upcoming A/W’17 season – including high heels and bootees in different materials, and with heel heights of between five and twelve centimetres.

Last year’s show included designs from Giovanna Borza, shown here with model wearing pieces from her collection

ARC FASHION SHOW TO RETURN IN MARCH The ARC fashion show, Ireland’s biggest fashion show, is back with a host of exciting names from the world of Irish fashion. Taking place on Thursday, 2 March at the RDS Main Hall, the event will showcase a mix of the best-established names alongside emerging design talent. All funds raised go to ARC Cancer Support Centres, which offers free counselling and support to those affected by cancer.

Nearly 1,000 attendees are expected on the night to view the latest collections by 26 designers, making it the biggest show of its kind in the country produced by renowned fashion consultant Eddie Shanahan.

This year’s show will see a selection of collections from Irish designers including Helen Cody, Heidi Higgins, Delphine Grandjouan, Emma Manley, Niamh O’Neill and Rebecca Marsden.

It will also include collections from innovative newcomers including Suzie Monaghan cashmere, Kabira Allain, Sarah Murphy and Theo + George among others. As always millinery will feature on the night with spectacular creations by Margaret O’Connor, Caithriona King, Aoife Kirwan, Elaine Keogh, Davina Lynch & Michelle Kearns.

Brown Thomas will sponsor some spectacular raffle prizes as well as providing a selection of fashion footwear to complement the designers’ collections. Attendees will also receive a No7 goodie bag on the night.

All funds raised on the night will go to ARC Cancer Support Centres which offer a range of free support, counselling and therapies to men and women living with cancer and their loved ones. ARC also provides programmes for primary school going children, aged 5 – 11, who have been affected by cancer.

TRENDS: LADIESWEAR AW17

Scaling New

Heights

Bold and brilliant are the buzzwords for AW17, a season where designers have scaled the heights to produce collections that provide a visual thrill and, hopefully, will do the business at the till. Here are the key trends for the season to start swotting up on.

KEEP IT IN CHECK ANIMAL MAGIC

Spot the spots. Are they leopard, cheetah, jaguar, or some other wild cat altogether? Whatever the species, animal motifs are everywhere for AW.

MATERIAL ASSET

The season’s key fabric to note? Velvet. Wear it crushed, coloured or top-to-toe, anything goes – so long as you keep it in pristine condition.

BROCADE PARADE

Burberry, Michael Kors and Mary Katrantzou are jjust some of the bluechip brands pushing the most decadent textile offerings of all – brocades so shimmering and so structured that they look like actual hammered metals. AW17 is, it seems, the season to truly shine.

PURPLE REIGN

The AW catwalks were awash with assorted shades of purple, giving us arguably this season’s stand-out colour Roberto Cavalli’s collection embraces the hue in richer brocades and velvets, while Loewe and Miu Miu are also championing the colour in deep hues. If it all sounds a bit de trop, it’s possible to dip a toe in the purple pond with a popping accessory.

THE NEW NAUTICAL

The neckline to know for AW17? Everywone from Dior to Kenzo and Miu Miu are backing womenswear’s most romantic shape: the sweetheart. Layer it, accessorise it, or just let it show off that décolletage.

Always a favourite amongst designers, the nautical look continues to make waves this season. Whether in the form of Popeye hats teamed with cotton corset belts and charm-packed chokers (Prada), or elegant officer’s jackets with fashionable frogging (Tommy Hilfiger, Dolce & Gabbana), AW17 is a season that, sartorially speaking, sails the seven seas.

ELEVATED SPORTSWEAR

DOWN BUT DEFINITELY NOT OUT

AHEAD BY A NECK

The luxe sportswear revolution is set to continue for AW17, albeit in a slightly modified form. Chic as well as comfortable, it takes the form of super-soft hoodies and anoraks which work well worn with glossy leather skinnies and full skirts.

RUFFLE SOME FEATHERS

Trendy rather than twee, ruffles are gaining increasing momentum, which should peak in AW17. For winter, the options are heavier and cosier – think JW Anderson’s leather layers, or Gucci’s scrunchy knitted capes.

While it never really went away, Prince Of Wales check is being hailed as AW17’s comeback kid, making an appearance all over the tailoring scene on just about every catwalk imaginable. Elsewhere, houndstooth, plaid, tartan and gingham also feature prominently this season.

Down jackets, aka puffas, are set to enjoy another ‘moment’ this season as the couture puffa – a facourite style on the catwalks of DKNY, Stella McCartney and Balenciaga - is (literally) one of the season’s biggest designs.

BACK TO THE 80s BIG MAC

A new autumn season would be nothing without a good coat trend, and for AW17 it is, quite literally, the return of the mac.

The decade that style forgot? Not a bit of it!

From Saint Laurenbt’s oneshoulder party dresses to Marni’s stirrup leggings, AW trends are turning back time in a big way.

How long before the OTT shoulderpads follow suit?

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 13

SHOWTALK

SHOWTALK: Previews GDS

7- 9 FEBRUARY, 2017 DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY For the forthcoming edition of GDS, which will take place from 7-9 February, 2017, the event organisers are anticipating more than 700 brands to exhibit their international collections in the three lifestyle worlds: HIGHSTREET, POP UP and STUDIO. In addition to this, there will be an informative trend programme, while an ancillary show, tag it!, which will feature approximately 150 exhibitors, will run concurrently.

The evolving nature of GDS is indicative of the constantly changing nature of the footwear sector, according to Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President and CEO of Messe Düsseldorf.

Looking further ahead, the event organisers together with the extended Advisory Board have decided to hold the Summer 2017 GDS in early September. Furthermore, the trade show will be held from Sunday to Tuesday in order to also accommodate smaller-sized retailers.

PURE LONDON

LONDONEDGE

Pure London and Pure Man trend-inspired fashion trade shows will take place over three days from 12-14 February, 2017 at Olympia London, welcoming over 800 brands across womenswear, menswear, young fashion, athleisure, footwear and accessories.

For the forthcoming edition, Pure London Womenswear will be defined by new and exclusive brands showcasing the latest trends and movements within the fashion industry. A number of curated show sectors - Pure Premium, Allure, Aspire, Spirit, Footwear, Accessories and New Brands – will showcase a diverse range of styles, while catwalk shows will highlight some of the season’s key trends.

Womenswear will take over the Grand Hall, playing home to contemporary and lifestyle collections, elegant occasion wear and coveted designer pieces from a host of international brands.

A key attraction of the February edition promises to be the launch of a dedicated Athleisure section, as the global demand for fashionable active wear continues to soar. Other highlights will include a keynote talk by Alexandra Shulman, OBE. A respected, leading voice of the fashion world, the editor-in-chief of British Vogue will share highlights of her esteemed career on Sunday 12 February.

Other speakers will include Christina Sheehy, Chief Sub-Editor at Net-A-Porter; Georgie Coleridge Cole, Editor and Founder at Sheerluxe; Lisa Maynard-Atem, Social Media Manager at Harrods; and Sara Maggioni, Director of Retail and Buying at WGSN. Further details are available online at purelondon.com

Following a highly successful September 2016 edition, LondonEdge will be taking up permanent residence at the Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1.

Running for two days this season, from 12-13 February, 2017, LondonEdge attracts key buyers from all over the world to the epicentre of alternative style and culture.

Recorded as one of the original subculture stomping grounds, Islington is filled with delicious eateries, shops and bars that all contribute to making a visit to LondonEdge the ultimate exhibition experience. Moreover, Islington is also a stone’s throw from the iconic bars, markets and music venues of Camden & East London - areas that have always held a special place in the heart of the Team Edge.

Managing Director of LondonEdge, Carole Hunter, is thrilled to be taking up residency at the BDC: “We feel like we’ve really found our personal mecca in Islington - The Business Design Centre and North London feel like home.

“The location is great for everyone involved and this venue offers a convenient, beautiful and sociable environment in which to do business plus, with plenty of underground and mainline stations around, it’s so easy to find.”

Designed by Joseph Paxton for the Great Exhibition in 1851, the Business Design Centre boasts a beautiful glass ceiling, which allows plenty of natural light into the venue. The multi-levelled space creates the perfect backdrop to the show allowing the 170+ collections exhibited to be seen by 1,000s of visitors from all over the world.

Further details are available online at londonedge.com

12-14 FEBRUARY 2017 OLYMPIA, LONDON

16 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

12-13 FEBRUARY, 2017 ISLINGTON, LONDON

SHOWTALK

MODA

19-21 FEBRUARY 2017 BIRMINGHAM, UK Birmingham-based trade show Moda has confirmed a strong line-up across each of its five product sectors. The UK’s most comprehensive fashion event will launch AW17 with a bolstered line-up for the new season and the development of each of its specific platforms targeting niche departments within the apparel trade.

Lily & Me, Braintree, Marble, Latte, Sahara, Bianca, Tinta, Dents, Eliza Gracious and Peace of Mind are just some of the womenswear and accessories labels already confirmed for the three-day February event, while Frank Lyman will make a return to the show following its successful debut last season.

Moda Woman is set to bolster its presence with a clutch of exciting new signings across the entire spectrum of the trade. Moda White will represent the show’s go-to area for contemporary and directional womenswear labels, with a line-up that features new arrivals such as Slow Clothes, French Dressing Jeans,

Mama B and Steilmann, which relaunches to the industry following its absence last season.

The popular Moda Footwear, meanwhile, has confirmed over 250 collections for

February, with Tamaris, Skechers, Dr. Martens, Mustang, Josef Seibel, S.Oliver and Caprice amongst the comprehensive line-up.

Further details are online at moda-uk.co.uk

in the Casual sector. Artisanal products made with carefully sourced materials will be shown within the Contemporary sector.

Lastly, children’s footwear will be organised within the Kids sector, located in the area connecting halls 5 and 7. MOMAD Shoes will also feature a selection of firms presenting Bags and Accessories

As with previous editions, MOMAD Shoes will once again include a buyers’ programme, which, this time around, will focus on the geographical areas of the Middle East and Latin America. Alongside the sales exhibition the Show will offer an engaging programme of conferences aimed at the professional visitor, complementing their visit.

MOMAD SHOES 4-6 MARCH, 2017 MADRID, SPAIN

Scheduled to take place from 4 to 6 March at Feria de Madrid, the third edition of MOMAD Shoes is expected to exceed the 500 brands exhibited at its last show. This growth, according to the organisers, can be put down to the incorporation of new firms that are confident that the show will serve as a platform to promote their products in the Spanish and Portuguese markets.

Brands taking part in MOMAD Shoes for the first time will join prestigious Made in Spain footwear sector stalwarts that have once again signed up for this edition, including Mascaró, Mayoral, Pons Quintana, Pura López, Robert Clergerie, Lodi & Gadea, Chie Mihara, Pertini, Luisetti, Victoria, Exé, Chica 10, Xti, , Coolway and Mustang¸ among others.

The exhibition’s offering - which will occupy Halls 5 and 7 of Feria de Madrid, covering a net floor space of 9,000 square metres - will be broken down into sectors based on product type. Hall 5 will house all the footwear and accessories brands within the urban, youth, sport and trendy segments, in the Fast & Young sector. Hall 7, meanwhile, is where the main footwear and bags brands will be within the Espacio Metro space.

Elsewhere, informal, urban, physiological and comfort footwear will be displayed

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 17

VOXPOP

The traditional Christmas sales may have taken a hit from Black Friday but the fashion world still loves a good bargain.

So how did the nation’s indies fare, and what are their hopes for the year ahead?

We asked six menswear and ladieswear retailers throughout Ireland to share their respective experiences and aspirations.

Reduced To Clear!

AOIFE MYLERHERLIHY

OWNER OF MODA MAIN STREET, MALLOW, CO. CORK “Our sales this winter were pretty good – we felt, in general, there was a pickup in business from previous years.

In 2016, we really dedicated a lot of time focusing our brands, putting more of an emphasis on our casual options, which appeal to customers in the winter season, particularly during the sales.

“We started on 27 December as we do every year. Apart from Black Friday, which was reasonably successful, we didn’t have any other sales this season.

Speaking of Black Friday, I feel that

10 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

they are more popular in cities than towns. Earlier in the year, however, we had several other promotions and sales.

“We sell online but, of course, can’t compete with the big powerhouses.

Overall in 2016, we were happy although we found the summer difficult. I think the weather plays a part in that but also I have noticed that our customers are more inclined to purchase casual footwear in the winter months while the summer sees interest focused on occasional wear for weddings and such.

“Looking forward to 2017, we are optimistic. We think we have now got it right with our brands and are hoping for a ‘little and often’ approach from customers over the year.”

DAVID O’CONNOR

GENERAL MANAGER AT LOUIS COPELAND CAPEL STREET, DUBLIN 1 “This year, the lead up to Christmas was flat but as soon as we hit 22 December - and customers could not buy for Christmas online any longer - our physical stores were very busy. After-Christmas sales were very positive. Overall, we were very happy with the Christmas season.

“Our website business continues to grow and was good for the full Christmas season.”

VOXPOP

JOHN WALDRON

OWNER OF JOHN FRANCIS WALDRON NORTHGATE STREET, ATHLONE, CO. WESTMEATH

EMMA AHERN

PROPRIETOR OF BROCADE & LIME 4 CORNMARKET STREET, CORK “Our winter sales began a little earlier this year, the week before Christmas.

Usually, we kick off around Stephen’s Day. Funnily enough, despite the early start, it was the week following Christmas that proved most popular – and even funnier again, our Black Friday weekend in November was actually busier than our Christmas sales! Black Friday is relatively new for us, we only started taking part last year but it’s been such a success so far.

“For our winter sales, we offered a range of discounts, depending on stock – all the way up to 70 per cent. We are a vintage store and during these sales, the 40s era was, as always, very popular with customers.

We had high hopes for velvet but it didn’t sell as well as we hoped. Fur was another area that was slow – I suppose that has something to do with the fact that it’s so widely available on the highstreet. While it wouldn’t have the same quality as our stock, it is cheaper and, as such, perfect for ladies who want to wear it as a one-off occasion.

“The boutique has been doing really well but we are always looking for other avenues to generate business.

We have an event space upstairs with a Champagne bar, an Art Deco cinema and a parlour for hair and make-up.

“Recently, we have started doing themed hen parties, small weddings and birthdays as a way of complementing the boutique, and that is all going really well so far. Elle magazine gave us a wonderful shout-out a couple of years ago and that has been a godsend in terms of bringing awareness to our boutique.”

JULIANA WALTERS OWNER OF PLACE 5 JOHN STREET, GOREY, CO. WEXFORD

“We started our sales on 27 December, which was the same as last year. We offered discounts between 35 per cent and 50 per cent. Needless to say, the bigger discounts saw the most demand with items over 50 per cent flying out the door.

“A lot of retailers in this area enter sales well before Christmas but we never succumb to the pressure. Our advantage is our range of accessories – 40 per cent of our business, in fact.

“Usually, a month before December, we have a one-day sale with 10 per cent discounts but, this year, we didn’t do it - although we took part in Black Friday in November and offered 20 per cent. It worked well, although I suspect retailers in cities would have more to celebrate than those of us in regional areas.

“We have an online store where our winter discounts are available, but the nature of our store means that fit is key so customers prefer to try items on in person – we often have online purchases returned to us on account of fit not being right.

“We are currently planning our brands for the coming seasons and are extremely optimistic – we can’t wait for our S/S stock to arrive. In saying that, the ladies’ fashion industry is under a lot of pressure at the moment – it is a saturated market and the customer has become extremely savvy. We need to continue to offer them something different. That’s my job and if I do it well, then it will be a good year for us!”

“We were quite happy with our sales overall. We started promotions in early December and while the initial stages were a little slow to start, they picked up during the latter two weeks prior to Christmas. We then entered our full sales just after Christmas.

“Big sellers for us were sweaters, slacks and shirts although we thought our range of suits might have garnered more interest.

“We offered discounts between 40 and 50 per cent and have just finished up with the majority of our winter stock greatly reduced, so, all in all, we are very happy.

“This year, we have major plans for the store with a big revamp taking place. We are getting new flooring and will also extend out the back. We don’t have any new brands planned as I try to keep accounts to a minimum. I support our suppliers and they support me. Wedding season is about to begin and we’re really looking forward to it.”

Shirts sold well at Monzo in Swords, Co. Dublin

DANIELLA SOARES

ASSISTANT MANAGER AT MONZO 6 THE PLAZA, MAIN STREET, SWORDS “We have enjoyed a really good winter season with the sales being extremely popular with customers. We started our promotion on Black Friday and continued until the end of January.

“Initially, we offered 20 per cent discounts, which increased to 50 and 70 per cent discounts after Christmas. We usually start winter promotions in the second half of November.

“To begin with, there was great interest in our collection of shirts and jumpers but we noticed that we didn’t have many takers for our heavier items such as winter coats. I think the weather wasn’t too bad over the past few months, which will always put a damper on outerwear. In saying that, interest in coats picked up in January.

“We have recently opened up a second store in Swords – our fourth overall - and are really looking forward to seeing how it goes in 2017. Up until now, men weren’t well represented in the Swords area with very few options available. We have new labels there from London Brogue and Lerros, as well as more formal options such as Herbie Frog and Lambretta. So far, so good!”

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 11

AGENT PROFILE

THE OTHER SIDE OF… With a portfolio of brands that includes Eterna, Brax, Eduard Dressler and Prime, Neal McCotter of McCotter Agencies needs little, if any, introduction.

James Street South

Brunello Cucinelli

New York

Dream machine: 1960s E-Type Jaguar

Neal McCotter

Having cut his teeth in the fashion industry as a teenager, when he and his brothers worked in one of Northern Ireland’s leading independent menswear retailers, Bogart, during the summer and Christmas holidays, McCotter liked what he saw.

After graduating from university, he recalls how he “spent some time working with Frank Heavey and my Dad [Bill McCotter] to test out if I would be interested in coming into the industry. I loved the work and customers so I joined the business!”

While work is a passion, there’s plenty to fill the Belfast-based fashion agent’s time beyond the office. Here he gives an insight to what makes him tick beyond the 9.5.

Slamdunk!

The West Wing

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? James Street South: amazing food in the coolest surroundings. The chef Niall McKenna is a good friend and a top restaurateur.

FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? New York. I’m not a beach bum’ I love the buzz of the city and always catch a Knicks game.

FAVOURITE TV SHOW? The West Wing. I still re-watch the box set.

FAVOURITE FILM? The Usual Suspects. The plot is so original and the twist is still cool.

FAVOURITE ACTOR? There’s no one actor in particular that I like. I’ll watch anything, to be honest.

FAVOURITE BOOK? I’m not a big book reader; I love reading newspapers and good journalism. I’m 22 Futura Magazine

The Usual Suspects

Family time

Brunello Cucinelli. I don’t get too worked up about brands or designers. I prefer to look for the quality and feel of the fabrics and cut.

Cucinelli has a very nice mix of these.

international caps - and when I retired two years ago, I was appointed head coach straight away. It meant I hit the roads of Ireland every weekend for a game, which was a bit of a bus man’s holiday but I loved it.

I have finally taken a break now and I’m trying to coach my 16-month son now so he can play in the NBA. He’s keen but has a long way to go!

FAVOURITE CAR?

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME?

BMW. I’ve driven BMWs for quite a while now and they are great cars. If money was no object, I’d love a 60s E-Type Jag for the weekends! I’ll keep saving...

I don’t like to look much further than three to five years at a time. The industry is changing so rapidly and we need to be flexible and adapt to changes very quickly. Predicting 10 years down the road is impossible.

interested in politics, current affairs, economic issues and I’m sport-mad.

FAVOURITE DESIGNER?

HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB? It’s not that relaxing, admittedly, but I played basketball in the Premier League of Ireland for 18 years - I’ve won All Ireland titles and

IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE… At home with my family.

INTERVIEW

Uptown Punk Less than 17 months ago, Pinstripe Punk, a trendy menswear store, opened its door in County Louth’s bustling town of Dundalk to much fanfare. Boasting a fine selection of exclusive and individual labels, the emporium is already enticing stylish customers from both sides of the border. Menswear spoke to proprietor Darren Guest, who reflects back on the store’s full first year in business and discusses the pay-off of following your dreams and taking a risk in the fickle fashion industry.

T

he Corrs might currently be County Louth’s most famous children, but if a certain, young entrepreneur continues at his current pace, the sweetvoiced quartet might have stiff competition on their hands.

Darren Guest, owner of Dundalk’s fashionable Pinstripe Punk, is a man on a mission. Having first opened its doors to delighted punters in August 2015, the Leinster man’s bold and singular vision for this unique store was to provide the area with affordable, original and quality garments, targeting the 20 to 50 age bracket. As such, what sets the store apart from the competition is that it focuses more on the product itself, rather than cluttering its shelves with the usual heavily-branded, logo-driven offerings.

“Scandinavian style has played a major role in the way we buy, and what we buy,” the energetic businessman explains. “Their clean, 24 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

easy-to-wear, functional fashion is something that I wanted to bring not only to Dundalk but Ireland as a whole.

“Concept stores don’t exist in Ireland, bar a few unique independents dotted around the country - this is a new type of clothing store, more commonly associated with London’s diverse Shoreditch High Street.”

Having the courage and temerity to launch a clothing store during a somewhat tricky economic climate was the result of many years cutting his teeth in various aspects of the industry – a period that afforded Guest insights into many aspects of the business.

While studying in Dundalk Institute of Technology, he started working as a part-time sales assistant in River Island, as well as doing some part-time modelling for events such as fashion shows, photo shoots for advertising campaigns, and fashion photography for online websites.

The then up-and-coming fashionista also worked in the menswear shop, Tony McDonnell – which just a stone’s thrown away from Pinstripe Punk - for the best part of 10 years, where he looked after the casual department while also being given the responsibility of handling the buying for the popular store.

“I suppose this is how I got involved in the industry,” says Guest. “From then on, fashion has always been a part of my life.”

Despite his exceptional resumé, Guest had the humility to concede that anybody starting off will be faced with various obstacles, and while launching Pinstripe Punk, he quickly discovered that he was no exception.

“The main challenge starting the business was getting the right mix of brands, which had to fit into our concept and ideology of what our store should be stocking,” he recalls.

“With eight other independent menswear

INTERVIEW

stores in the area, as well as your high street usuals, we had to be completely different.

“I knew that if we stuck to our principles of selling high quality at affordable price points, our unusual brand list would work.”

Guest also cites the importance of implementing the many marketing tools that are available to businesses and, in particular, he gives a large tip of the hat to social media.

“Facebook and Instagram would be our most-used tools,” he mentions. “We keep our news feeds and pages interesting and unique by incorporating music, food and drink, sport and news. Our social media accounts aren’t just a snap of a garment with a description; they’re an insight into Pinstripe Punk, and our customer buys into this.”

In terms of the store’s price points, Guest believes that being competitive in today’s economic climate is vital.

“While some feel stocking ‘cheaper’ labels is the answer, being competitive by offering value for money has been our philosophy and approach from Day One.” In addition to these attractive prices, what really sets Pinstripe Punk apart from competitors is the aforementioned range of exclusive garments. Currently, they are stockists of more than 20 labels, six of which are not to be found anywhere else on the Emerald Isle.

“Offering our customer a unique brand mix is one of our main selling points,” Guest

mentions. “Our brand list includes Scotch & Soda, Samsoe Samsoe, Psycho Bunny, Carhartt WIP, Peter Werth, Loake Shoes, Clarks Originals, Matinique, Bellfield, Rains, Andersons, Cheap Monday, The Blue Uniform, Neuw, Gloverall, Bjorn Borg, Fila, Ellesse, Burlington and Magee.”

He also recognises the importance of providing customers with a cool and trendy environment that helps remove the dread that men often associate with shopping. One step over the threshold and you feel like you are in a funky bachelor pad!

“Our store design and quirky layout is also a point of difference: a relaxed atmosphere, cool tunes, and if you fancy a beer or coffee we are more than happy to oblige.

“We’re extremely proud of our store design, which features scorched timber fittings, cast iron railings and original red brick wall. The fit-out is quite minimal, which adds to the character and atmosphere in the store.”

But, no business, no matter the look or content, is going to prove successful without a strong, knowledgeable staff on the floor.

Having spent years in men’s retail, Guest was fully aware of this and has ensured that his team is armed with all the expertise needed to make the customer’s shopping experience as pleasant and effortless as possible.

“We give our staff extensive training into our product offering, which gives them the

confidence in what we’re about and what we sell,” he explains.

Since opening in the autumn of 2015, the booming enterprise has evolved, as every business should. Learning from season to season is a must, Guest acknowledges - adding new labels, and removing any that haven’t worked is “part and parcel of this industry”.

“We’ve added in new services such as personal tailoring, as well as off-the-peg suiting, which is a new dimension for the business. This has brought in a different consumer entirely and has been a huge plus point over the last six months. We’ve also added an online store, which allows us to sell on an international scale.”

Reflecting on their inaugural year, Guest admits that it has been nothing short of “crazy”, but admits that he wouldn’t have it any other way.

“It’s been very positive. Our store is well ahead of what we wanted to achieve in our first year,” he reports. “Becoming established takes time, but we’ve got customers that travel from Dublin, Belfast and other areas so the name seems to be spreading, which is great.”

Looking ahead to the future, the ambitious and determined chap reveals that their main focus at the moment is developing their online presence and, all going well, possibly expanding and moving to a bigger premises.

“But, for the time being,” he laughs, “we’ll make do with No.5 Crowe Street!”

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 25

TRENDS: MEN’S SEPARATES AW17

Benvenuto Purple Gardeur

Separating The Wheat From The Chaff An increasingly important component of men’s wardrobes, separates are set to impress for AW17. The very best blend form and function while marrying some of the season’s key colours and fabrics.

Digel

Gardeur Nagano

Nagano

Douglas

Digel Move

Alberto Baumler

Magee Roy Robson

Skopes

CG-Club Of Gents

Eden Park Benvenuto Black

Bugatti Digel S4 Joules

Camel Active

Magee

26 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

Digel

Bugatti

Carl Gross

Eden Park

TRENDS: MEN’S DENIM AW17 Bugatti

B.bros

Kenzo

Kenzo

Kenzo

All in The Jeans

Givenchy

Nagano

Meyer

Kenzo Digel

Julien

Alberto Hajo

Boris Bidjan

Givenchy

CG-Club Of Gents

Alberto

Phillip Lim Gardeur

ON THE CATWALK A wholly eclectic affair, menswear AW17 offers up a mixed bag of looks and styles, not least when it comes to denimwear.

While many brands Phillip Lim appear content to tread a safe path, others have embraced a more radical approach. Innovation was certainly order of the day at Paris Fashion week, which showcased some fresh looks from the famous – Kenzo and Givenchy and the (yet) not so famous brands, as well as some non-conventional denim newcomers such as Adidas.

The key trends discernible are strong indigo tones, some interesting indigo rainbow wash looks from Kenzo, graphic looks on denim by Givenchy, glazy shiny looks from Philip Lim and, interestingly, some ‘wet looks’ in overalls and bomber jackets from Boris Bidjan.

Club Of Comfort

Joules

PLAYING IT SAFE

Camel Active

Carl Gross

Benvenuto Black

Bruhl

Roy Robson

Away from the catwalk, it’s a far more conservative approach for AW17 denim. Brands such as Carl Gross, Camel Active, Bugatti, CG – Club of Gents and Digel have all adhered to the tried-and-tested formula of predominantly slim-fitting and straightleg jeans, which are offered in various shades of indigo. After all, if ain’t broke….

There is, of course, some concession to variety, most notably in the form of some lighter washes, various forms of distressed detail and, less prominently, assorted black jeans. In the main, however, denim designers are treading a safe path – and one that has fared them well in recent seasons. A season for evolution, then, rather than revolution.

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 27

FOOTWEAR TRENDS AW17

SOLE PURPOSE

Daringly diverse and, for the most part, fusing form with function, the shoe selection for AW17 is one of the most impressive – and extensive - in recent seasons. Trends are as different as they are discernible, resulting in a smorgasbord of styles and, crucially, a wealth of choice for retailers and consumers alike. While some may argue there are many more, we’ve narrowed down to key trends in ladies’ footwear to a justabout manageable 22. Look, learn and lust!

Jana

CLASSIC PUMPS

LATEX SHOES & BOOTS

The classic pump was to be seen everywhere on the AW17 catwalk shows. It was back in style and seen complementing everything from cropped pants and flared trousers to leather leggings. Proof, if it were needed, that this timeless shoe style is never really out of fashion.

A highly practical material that stretches out and encapsulates the leg, whether in a bootie or thigh-high style, latex is, perhaps not surprisingly, embraced by myriad designers for AW17. The result is a series of looks that are slightly futuristic yet also utterly contemporary.

ANKLE BOOTIES CHUNKY-HEELS

A fashionable yet wonderfully functional alternative to stilettoes, the chunkier style of heel offers significantly more stability in the long-run, while still looking stylishly sexy.

PEEP-TOE SHOES & SANDALS

A surprising style for the cooler months, admittedly, but the peep-toe is here to stay for another AW season yet. This time round, however, designers are more playful with their respective designs. Narciso Rodriguez, for example, is showcasing the opentoe idea, but goes for the peep version, rather than baring everything. Open toes designs, meanwhile, are embraced by the likes of Giambattista Valli, Rodarte, Francesco Scognamiglio and Dries Van Noten.

28 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

Booties are set to be big for AW17 - and with good cause, too! They are just high enough to endure the inclement weather and keep the feet warm, while ensuring maximum style points for the wearer. And there’s a wealth of choice for the season – everything from wool and leather booties from the likes of Hugo Boss to furry designs by Fendi.

LACE-UP, GLADIATOR-STYLE FOOTWEAR

A mainstay of summer, the must-have gladiator shoes are taking on exciting new forms for AW17, as the lacing idea is evolved to add character to a whole slew of different fashion house footwear designs.

GEOMETRIC SHAPES

While chunky heels are in, some of the fashion houses have opted to add more character to them and, in the process, creating eye-catching designs with exciting geometric shapes.

REPTILE SHOES

Not just for handbags, exotic prints are increasingly prominent in some of the most adventurous footwear collections. Some designs, such as those by Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem, have multiple textures to them, with the tops appearing like alligator skin. A different aesthetic is provided by, for instance, Haider Ackermann whose avant-garde boots boast beautifully scaled snakeskin designs.

FOOTWEAR TRENDS AW17

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 29 Marco Tozzi Wendel GmbH & Co. KG, Detmold, Germany | tel.: +49 5231 605-01 | fax: +49 5231 605-152 | e-mail: info@marcotozzi.com

FOOTWEAR TRENDS AW17

NARROW & LONG

A form of footwear that is likely to prove as divisive as Marmite, the narrow-and-long style of the quirky pointy-toe shoe is set to be hugely popular for the forthcoming AW season.

Mephisto

STOCKING BOOTS

Comfortable and glamorous, the stocking boot’s continued popularity is hardly surprising. Little wonder, then, that it’s a look beloved of designers of the calibre of Givenchy, Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior, all of whom showcase this trend in their respective AW collections.

Mobils

LOW-HEELED SHOES

While many of the shoes showcased on the AW17 catwalks have rather high heels, others are pretty short or almost flat. Designers such as Michael Kors and Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem prove that it’s a style that can be desirable rather than dowdy.

SLIPPERS, SLIDES & MULES

Not an obvious theme for AW, the popularity of the triumvirate of slippers, slides and mules suggests that these styles will be surprisingly popular come AW17.

FURRY FOOTWEAR

The hard-to-miss furry footwear trend of SS has snowballed into an even bigger style for AW17. Furry slides, which Gucci embraced to great success, are likely to be one of the key designs alongside trendy Moroccan mules.

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BEJEWELLED SHOES

Bling is in for AW17 – at least when it comes to footwear. An extensive line-up of jewel-patterned or bead-embellished shoes made a glamorous addition to many of the leading catwalk shows, including Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana.

SPACE-AGE FOOTWEAR

Since many of the designers were looking forwards instead of focusing on the past, it’s only right that AW17 ushers in various footwear designs that take into consideration heelless platforms with quirky, bizarre and entirely space-age geometric shapes.

FOOTWEAR TRENDS AW17

John McHugh | +353 87 2628467 | john.mchugh@caprice-schuhe.de | www.caprice.de Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 31

FOOTWEAR TRENDS AW17

PROMINENT TOECAPS

A quirky but welcome trend for AW17 is the prominent toecap. Executed well, this look adds colour and contrast to footwear, elevating the ordinary to the extraordinary.

THIGH-HIGH BOOTS

Many of the boots spotted on the international runways ended either at the centre of the thigh. It’s not a style that will be universal in appeal but when executed well – look to Dior’s marble-patterned designs for a prime example – it’s a style that exudes panache and confidence.

GRAPHIC SHOES

Many of the AW17 shoes and boots to feature in the catwalk shows actually included some form of graphic component, whether it came in the shape of patching or marbles or any other form of graphics, such as the MSGM zigzags on heels and toecaps or Fendi’s eye-catching ankle booties with a graphic pattern in the middle.

POSITIVELY QUIRKY

Quirky shoes come in all shapes and sizes but the best styles stand out for all the right reasons. Prime examples? Jason Wu’s stunning sculptural heels, Miu Miu’s flats with large buckles and the funky heels of some of the best designs by Acne Studios.

TWO-TONE SHOES

Two-tone designs cropped up on just about every catwalk, from Chanel to Prada, proving their undoubted popularity for AW17. While some appeared in marble styles, or with the soles a colour different than the actual body seen from the top, others featured caps or are more geometric in design, preferring straight lines to curves.

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ICE SCULPTURE HEELS

While block heels are always expected to be ‘in’, designers’ willingness to play around with the concept and, in the process, create delightfully fresh ideas is a welcome surprise for AW17. Expect the brilliantly different ice sculpture-heeled boots by the likes of Fendi and Roberto Cavalli to top the must-have lists of many a footwear fashionistas.

SPORTS-INSPIRED SHOES

Sneakers have been having what style commentators call ‘a moment’ for several seasons now. And a glut of subtle but significant modifications to this popular shoe style is likely to ensure their popularity for many a season to come. Some of the best examples include Markus Lupfer’s embroidered sneakers with their Marsala colour and white contrasts; and Tommy Hilfiger’s colour-blocked leather designs with lace-up details on a wedge.

FOOTWEAR TRENDS AW17

SIZING UP THE COMPETITION Trends: Children’s Footwear BOHO CHIC

One of the hottest trends for girl’s shoes is Bohemian Flair. Think fringed suedes, tasteful embroidery and cool denims - these finishings offer a refined yet boldly colourful update on an everlasting trend. Textured materials played into the look.

Blowfish, for instance, have a macramé lace-up style, while MIA’s thong sandal makes use of a striped, crocheted upper. Other footwear brands getting in on the act include Report, who have opted for playful beading on a double-strap sandal. Other features of this trend include an update for denim in the form of floral embroidery, and the inclusion of several gladiator-style sandals in a tall silhouette with ribbon laces.

(from top) Double-strap denim sandal, slingback with embroidery, denim lace-up

(from top) Crocheted knit thong, beaded doublestrap sandal, lace-up with multi-coloured stitching.

KEEPING IT CASUAL

Whether in denim or leather, lace-up or Velcro, the latest crop of boys’ sneakers will leave toddlers trendier than their parents. What’s notable is that a host of key trends seen in menswear have made their way into the kids’ sneaker market. All-over colourways take their cue from a prevalent sneaker trend, while the prominence of denim Velcro style is a playful take on the trending material in the adult footwear arena. Laceless sneakers are also set to be a key style for the season. Numerous brands are introducing easy slip-on-and-go styles, offering it in either a canvas or rubber finish.

High-top trainer with denim detailing, leather low-top court sneaker

Visit us:

Perforated two-tone rubber slip-on

ADRIANO

MODA

FOOTWEAR 19. – 21.2.

Booth: D11 TRECY

MEPHISTO IR • Kristian Schnittger • Tel. +353 (0)86 8164003 • ks@adarebrands.com

www.mephisto.com

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 33

TRENDS: MEN’S FOOTWEAR

STEPPING OUT The AW17 men’s shows at the recent Milan Fashion Week provided a bevy of new shoe trends. Overall, the season proved to be surprisingly understated and polished – but there were shoe innovations galore.

LOAFING AROUND

The essential loafer got an update with clunkier silhouettes.

The heavy-duty styles had refined detailing such as kiltie uppers or coloured leathers.

PUNK PHASE

Dress shoes went edgy with heavy metal studding and punchy colour accents. While they added a dash of cool, they can be easily worn with a suit.

FURRY FEET

The fur trend continued to dominate in new, unexpected versions.

The finishes included patchwork shaggy furs and understated ponyhair applications.

TAKE A HIKE

The lug-sole hiker appeared in several different interpretations.

The adventure-seeking styles ranged from true performance wear to more high-end takes.

SPORTS CLUB

Must-have sneakers were debuted in performanceready materials. Still, sleek shapes and tasteful hues gave them more of a fashion spin.

YOUR CONTACT

34 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

Talmarc Clothing Ltd 242 Blanchardstown Corporate Park 2 Blanchardstown | Dublin 15 *T: +353 1 8855 515 | *F: +353 1 8855 536

www.lloyd.com

AGENT PROFILE

THE OTHER SIDE OF… Having begun his career back in 1997, when he worked at ECCO’s wholesale warehouse in his hometown of Shepton Mallet in Somerset, England, Marcus Baker is now the sales manager for Legero (ladies’ and men’s footwear) and Superfit (children’s shoes) for Legero Schuhfabrik GesmbH of Austria.

Gasthof zum Sternwirt

Michael J. Fox in Back to the Future (1985)

Marcus Baker Dream holiday

A recipient of many awards — he won the ‘Platinum Shoe Award’ in 2013 and 2015, and was awarded the ‘Leader in Customer Service Award’ at the 2016 UK & Ireland Footwear Awards – he’s recognised as one of the best in his field. There’s far more to the Mr M. Baker than just his ‘day job’, though. Here, he gives in an insight into his loves and likes.

Hot wheels

Sue Barker, host of A Question of Sport

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Gasthof zum Sternwirt in Graz, Austria The food at this restaurant is very good - the best salads, typical Styrian dishes and steaks I have ever tasted.

FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? Any type of ocean cruise, visiting a different city and country each day.

FAVOURITE TV SHOW?

Tom Cruise in Top Gun

FAVOURITE CAR?

BBC’s A Question of Sport.

If I was able to choose one car it would be a Range Rover sport.

FAVOURITE FILM?

HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB?

Top Gun (1986) with Tom Cruise and Kelly McGillis.

I cycle in the evenings when I am home and enjoy watching sport, especially rugby union, cricket and darts. Having a job that involves travelling does mean that I enjoy being home with my family and spending time with them.

FAVOURITE ACTOR? Michael J. Fox in the 1980s (Back to the Future 1,2 & 3)

FAVOURITE BOOK? I don’t really read much, but if I do it is normally an autobiography about a legend from Rugby Union; the last one I read was Lion Man by Sir Ian McGeechan.

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME? I hope I will still be with Legero - as one of Europe’s established footwear manufacturers, I see a continuation of our product meeting the requirements of our stockists and consumers offering style, fit and value for money.

Island life

IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE….

With my family on Ascension Island in the mid-Atlantic. I was posted there for six months when I was 19 and it is just the most fantastic place to visit: great climate and isolated, with things like TV and telephones being limited (well, they were when I was there!).

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 35

INTERVIEW

The Perfect Fit Hidden treasures are often found in the most unexpected of places. Take Nozomi, the hugely popular footwear store in Co. Clare. Entering its fourth decade, the stylish business continues to go from strength to strength, garnering interest from customers the world over. Here, its owner, Mary Ryan, reflects on the business’ success as well as looking ahead into what might lie in store in the future.

N

ozomi, the footwear specialist, with a prime location on Ennis’ bustling O’Connell Street, has been tending to the needs of stylish women from Co. Clare for over 30 years. Throughout the decades, the store, which is owned and managed by Mary Ryan, has become something of an institution in the Banner County and, indeed, beyond.

“I always had a passion for fashion particularly shoes - from a very young age,” Ryan reveals. “Maybe that goes back to my great-aunt Mary being a designer in New York back in the day.”

Aside from inheriting her namesake’s flair for fashion, it seems Ryan’s family has influenced the business in many another way, notably its unusual name.

“My mom was a very keen gardener and as a little girl when I wasn’t climbing trees I used to play in the garden where my mom had lovely rose beds,” Ryan recalls. “There was one in particular which she seemed to be giving more attention to - it was a bit different from the others and needed more pruning. It was called the Nozomi rose. I love

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the name!”

And just like a flowerbed, the store’s clientele comes in all shapes and sizes, from young mothers to great-grannies, students to entrepreneurs, along with professionals from all sectors, whether they be accountants, barristers, dentists, nurses, teachers or artists.

And despite the perceived limitations of being based in the South West of Ireland, their loyal customers come from near and far, whether it’s Co. Clare or Orange County.

“Our clientele comes from the length and breadth of Ireland, and during the holiday season, we enjoy many American, English, Australian and European visitors who love to take a piece of Nozomi home with them,” Ryan explains.

“Nozomi enjoys a niche business and, fortunately, was not affected too much by the recession. We surfed the high waves - got in the tunnel here and there - and happily came to the top again.”

The footwear emporium enjoys an excellent reputation for being an occasion specialists and events such as weddings or the

races are particularly important to them. “[We work with] the bridal party, including the bride and wedding guests, [and cater for] the races - Ascot, Cheltenham, the Curragh, Punchestown and, closer to home, Galway.”

Ryan, who cites Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik as personal favourites, is extremely active in sourcing the store’s stock.

“I travel extensively throughout Europe to visit the factories and meet with the designers to create many very beautiful hand-crafted pieces,” she says. “I am always looking for something different for my customers.

“I source my collections directly from the artisans in the hills of Tuscany, Italy who have generations of shoe-making in their genes to France, Spain, Germany, Austria, the Netherlands all the way down to the Southern Hemisphere - Australia and New Zealand.

“I also attend the fairs in Garda, Milan, Paris, Düsseldorf, Madrid and London.

I attend the fashion shows at these fairs keeping a sharp eye on new trends and colours for the coming seasons.”

INTERVIEW

She adds: “We have our own in-house fashion consultants to advise on colour, style and, most importantly, suitability for each individual.”

From flats, heels, boots and elegant wedding shoes to comfort footwear and even wellies, Nozomi’s stock is as extensive as it is impressive. Key labels include Peter Kaiser, Le Babe, Marco Moreo, Think, Paul Green, Birkenstock, Hunter, Renata / Marian, Wolky, HB Espana, Alberto Zago, Jose Saenz and HB Italia.

Prices run the gamut, from purse-friendly to splash-the-cash. The cheapest shoes retail for approximately €75, while big spenders can pick up a pair of designer heels for €299.

Sizes, meanwhile, are similarly diverse: shoes are available from sizes 2.5 up to 9.5.

In addition to an extensive range of shoes, Nozomi also carries a selection of designer handbags and accessories, including pretty parasols handcrafted in Italy.

However, it’s not just important events where Nozomi emerges triumphant; the store also cater for other occasions whether it be hiking in the mountains, walking and everyday smart casual, which can take you from the office to an evening out with friends.

“Nozomi is a stockist of specialised walking shoes,” Ryan explains. “The shoe or boot has a removable footbed, which allows the person to wear their orthotic (prescription insole made for them specifically by their podiatrist) with ease and glamour. I sourced these in the Netherlands and Austria.”

While social media is essential to the success of the business, Ryan highlights their popular window displays – which have secured the store a number of awards - as one of the keys to their success.

“Our window display is very important after all, it is the silent salesman!” she jokes.

“Unlike many footwear retailers who often cram as many shoe styles as they can into a window display, Nozomi’s approach proves that less really can be more. The overall effect is eye-catching and inviting, rather than overwhelming. The result is a display that intrigues the passer-by and begs them to look further.

“We are the proud winners of many window display competitions over the years.”

The attention to visual detail is, of course, continued inside the store, too. Beyond the entrance, Nozomi features a Milaneseinspired décor, which provides an elegant break from the average shoe retailer. Oatmeal carpet provides a cosy surface underfoot while bespoke mahogany display units, occasional with a mirrored rear, provide ample display space.

Additionally, space is intelligently used, allowing for a huge range of footwear to be displayed. Impressively, the respective shoes and boots are all easy access, which makes for an enjoyable shopping experience for our returning customers.

Nozomi currently employs four staff.

A genuinely warm welcome is extended to everybody who steps into the store, all

customers are encouraged and invited to browse at their leisure and to avail of any assistance should it be required.

“Our customers love the shopping experience of Nozomi,” Ryan reports.

“With our wonderful staff, elegant interior and, crucially, a superb selection of shoes, it’s hardly surprising that Nozomi ranks as a destination footwear retailer, attracting women from all over the country.

“It’s not always easy catering to a diverse clientele but the store does it admirably, providing stylish and extensive choice for both the style-conscious femme fatale and the mature female shopper.”

The business has also embraced the importance of generating awareness amongst returning customers as well as enticing new ones. Not only are their social media pages active and appealing, the store has featured on TV3’s Ireland AM with Celia Holman Lee on many occasion – a programme that can attract north of 150,000 viewers. “[Ireland AM] is always a huge success story for us. Celia is a truly amazing, inspiring lady and is a wonderful ambassador for fashion in its entirety.”

It seems similar words could be used to describe Mary Ryan also.

And to the future?

“Nozomi has been in business for over 30 years and we are now looking forward to the next 30!” Ryan laughs.

Futura suspects that this Munster rose will continue to bloom for some time to come.

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 37

VOXPOP

Starting Over As the Christmas sales wind down, we spoke to six independent footwear retailers across the country to find out how they found the sales period, what sold well, what was slow to shift and, looking forward, how they’re approaching the year ahead.

MICHAEL GLEESON

OWNER OF MICHAEL GLEESON SHOES WILLIAM STREET, LIMERICK, CO. LIMERICK “Winter sales in Limerick started extremely early this year – in and around 8 December. I notice Low boots were surprisingly slow that sales are starting to shift at Michael Gleeson Shoes earlier and earlier each year, which really pleased with the lift we experienced over compromises profits. Our own sales the year. didn’t set the place alight and were “Black Friday disappointed – I suppose particularly sluggish to begin with customers are spoiled when it comes to although during the first two weeks sales and don’t get excited about them after Christmas, things really improved. anymore. There seems to be sales taking “In terms of the popularity of stock place all year round these days. during our sales, high boots proved “2017 is already proving difficult disappointing although low boots were when it comes to ordering stock steady. Coat shoes were extremely slow as there doesn’t appear to be any while our casual stock was good. established trends yet, especially “Rather worryingly, something we noticed in 2016 was a decrease in business for autumn – it’s hard to know what direction things are going to take. across children’s footwear. More positively, Nonetheless, we will battle on and aim we have found enormous success in an to fight another day!” area we call ‘problem feet’ and were really

38 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland

BRENDAN MCGUIRES

CO-OWNER OF GERRY MCGUIRES RAHILLY STREET BALLINA, CO. MAYO “Our winter sales were extremely busy for us this time around. We started on 27 December, which was the same date as previous years. Initially, we offered a 50 per cent discount on old stock with a 30 per cent discount on newer items. As the sales progressed, these discounts increased.

“We stock both shoes and designer handbags and we noticed that handbags, in particular, proved extremely popular with our customers.

“These sales took place at the end of a successful year for us – we’re very happy with how things went in 2016. The first half of the year especially was great for us although the second half wasn’t as good.

“Looking ahead to 2017, we’re extremely optimistic and hopeful, and we have a few plans that we are currently advancing.”

Discounts of 30% were offered on newer items at Gerry McGuires

VOXPOP

JENNY CONLAN

MANAGER OF GRAHAM’S SHOES TULLOW STREET, CARLOW, CO. CARLOW “Our winter sales went very well for us this year.

We’re currently coming towards the end of it and aim to finish just before our new S/S stock arrives, around the end of January or start of February.

“We started our initial sales during Christmas week but launched them properly on 27 December, just like we have done in previous years.

“The main seller for us was our collection of boots, particularly winter boots and ankle boots. We offered discounts from 20 per cent to 50 per cent along with 70 per cent for our clearance items.

Over-the-knee boots proved a great success for Shoe Rack in Wexford

“Promotions outside of the traditional summer and winter sales are important to us. Along with events like Black Friday, we have ‘spot days’ where we will run brand promotions or offers on certain lines and ranges. We would also have promotions to tie-in with events such as weddings, communions or confirmations.

“Overall in 2016, we were very happy with business, although it was slow to begin with. The summer was even slow but, thankfully, we really picked up in the second half.

“There is wonderful excitement in the store at the moment. We have two new brands arriving and lots of plans in place for various promotions.

I think you have to be optimistic and confident when starting a new year, don’t you?”

Discounts of up to 70% were available at Genius Crafted Footwear

TRÍONA BRENNAN SHANE KINSEALA STAFF AT SHOE RACK 67 MAIN STREET, WEXFORD, CO. WEXFORD

MANAGER OF GENIUS CRAFTED FOOTWEAR 14 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2

“We started our winter sales the week before Christmas and it was absolutely magnificent! Our stock flew off the shelves with customers delighted to get their winter boots at discounted prices. We usually start our sales before Christmas, although the exact date changes every year.

“During our winter sales, boots proved to be the hero product for us – Christmas boots and over-the-knee boots. We also did strong business with our range of going-out shoes.

“The discounts we offered varied – from €10 on some items, which translated to 10 or 15 per cent, to 50 per cent on others. We also have an online store where customers can also avail of the winter sales.

“During the year, we did Black Friday with 50 per cent discounts across some ranges. Brogues and ankle boots proved extremely popular. Over the coming months, we are going to introduce new labels such as Superdry for S/S. We are looking forward to another busy and successful year!”

“Our winter sales started on 27 December, like every year, and wrapped up towards the end of January. They proved very successful initially with a great burst of enthusiasm from customers, which continued until the third or fourth of January. Around that time, we find most people are licking their wounds post-Christmas.

“We offered extremely sizeable discounts – all the way up to 60 and 70 per cent. We had huge interest in our winter boots – an area we specialise in - and I only wish they were that popular at full price!

“We have an online store where the sales were available as well. We are finally happy with our online presence after investing much time and effort into getting it right. We now have the core configuration and will continue to refine it over the coming year. We are very optimistic about 2017 and have already tuned ourselves into S/S mode.

“In saying that, you always have to be mindful of the many challenges that all retailers continue to face.”

Discounted boots proved particularly at Greenes Shoes in Letterkenny

LAURA MOORE

STAFF AT GREENES SHOES MARKET CENTRE, LOWER MAIN STREET, LETTERKENNY, CO. DONEGAL “We started our winter sales this year towards the end of November, which is a little bit earlier than previous years but, overall, we were very happy with how things have been going.

“We offered a 20 per cent discount on our year-round stock with bigger discounts available on our more seasonal options like boots. These items, in particular, proved very popular with customers. As the sales continued, the discounts became even greater, which has really helped sustain interest from customers. We also have a strong online presence and customers were able to avail of our sales on our website.

“Just before we entered our winter sales, we took part in Black Friday and Cyber Monday and they were a great success for us.

“At Greenes, we are always committed to being up-tospeed on the latest brands and ranges and 2017 will be no different with some lovely stock soon to arrive. There is a general air of positively in the store, which is great!”

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 39

COLLECTIONS AW17

STYLE FILE

DOUGLAS Douglas’ AW17 collection heralds an exciting move towards a more contemporary look and feel. The progression is a subtle change to the core design aesthetic yet signals the beginning of a significant transition for the brand.

The new range sees a modern mix of fabrics in tailoring and shirting, striking a balance in use of the brand’s popular slimmer and tapered fits in suits and jackets. The patterns, palette and styling of the collection have also been updated to highlight the more progressive aspect of the brand and appeal to a wider audience.

Core masculine colours of navy, greys and blues are updated with flashes of burgundy and warming earth tones. Pattern remains important to the tailored collection; a contemporary mix of geometric, check and abstract designs feature prominently while a greater variety in fabric interest and texture is apparent throughout.

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COLLECTIONS AW17

FABER Faber’s AW17 knitwear coordinate collection is grouped into four fashion themes, each with its own distinct look.

Fuchsia, blue, cream and black are the basis for the first theme which features sophisticated, wild animal patterns, stripes made of extraordinary hairy yarns mixed with cotton and houndstooth in cream and black.

A sophisticated palette of night blue, light blue, silver, cream and cognac provides an elegant foundation for the second theme, which is characterised by twisted yarn techniques, wonderful gradations and cashmere-cotton blends with fashionable prints and decorations.

While the third theme is a very bright with lots of interpretations of animal patterns, the fourth theme has a pastel aesthetic where soft colours and cashmere blends merge beautifully.

GODSKE CLASSIC In keeping with its reputation for beautiful, high-quality fashion with an excellent fit. Godske Classic’s AW17 collection ushers in a series of feminine pieces that is targeted at the style-conscious adult woman.

Looks are predominantly classical yet minimalistic, making the garments ideal for all manner of social occasions. Bold patterns play with scale, making for plenty of visual interest, while colours range from bright and bold to tastefully discreet.

Garments in the collection, which Liam Lacey is showing at Unit 41A in Fashion City, are available in sizes from 34 through to 56.

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 41

COLLECTIONS AW17

JÓRLI

SKOPES Tailored, fitted statement jackets and overcoats with luxury trims, estate tweed blazers and heritage-inspired linings are just of the highlights in Skopes’ AW17 collection Ideal for dressing up or down, suits come with optional waistcoats and are available in mix-and-match, while stretch-waist chinos and soft cotton needle cord trousers look stylish in earthy neutral tones.

The Heritage story continues across the expanded range of seasonal mix-andmatch suits, where brushed tweeds and smaller scale dogtooth checks in short fitted jackets offer a contemporary twist on a classic theme.

As ever, Skopes carries many lines up to size 62” from stock, with a Special Ordering Service catering for 72” chest and extra-tall jackets and trousers.

MICHAELA LOUISA Available through Grace Glover in Unit 43 Fashion City, the AW17 collection from Michaela Louisa appeals to women looking for that special occasion outfit at a great price point.

The new range – which is available in sizes 8 through to 20 – includes fashionable day dresses with that all-important arm coverage, beautiful fur stoles and stylish coats. Covetable alternatives to dresses are also readily available and include a number of dressy pants and embellished tops.

High-quality fabrics and carefully selected seasonal colours ensure that the collection features a host of pieces that provide the perfect solution to women seeking outfits that can be worn time and time again.

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Available through Niall Scanlan and and Aileen McKay at Unit 5 in Fashion City, Jorli’s new collection for AW17 provides a wealth of sartorial choice for younger, fashion-conscious woman who prefers a feminine look with a quirky touch.

Garments in the range – which are available in sizes 34-56 - are made in luxurious materials with a finish that gives the respective styles an exclusive look.

Designs reflects current trends and are heavy on eye-catching details.

Patterns are particularly prevalent and appear in various forms, from colourful and elegant to playful. Colours, meanwhile, range from the discreet to the daring, making for a visually eclectic collection.

COLLECTIONS AW17

Q´NEEL Specialising in stylish fashion for women with curves, Q’Neel’s AW17 collection – which is being shown

by Liam Lacey at Unit 41A in Fashion City - features a host of designs that provide looks for every occasion, from glamorous parties to low-key relaxing.

From dresses and tops to trousers and capes, garments in the AW collection are designed in comfortable materials that cling to the wearer’s figure. Available in sizes 36-58, each piece has been developed to fit the feminine silhouette, thereby ensuring a perfect fit, no matter what the wearer’s size.

ETERNA Two trends shape Eterna’s AW17 shirt range: the Formal Wear line for the office is more relaxed, while casual shirts are smarter.

Sharp silhouettes with a modern look and perfect fit characterise the Slim Fit and Super Slim ranges where colour trends are minimalist and prints are very graphic. Mandarin collars and small button-down collars emphasise the clean lines of this new look.

A varied palette is used throughout. The first delivery places emphasis on discreet berry shades,dusty green and dark blues and sees graphic prints, stripe variations and monochrome open checks as stylish alternatives to monochrome designs.

A later delivery, meanwhile, reflects multifaceted plays on colour with deep tones. Grapevine and purple are teamed with light walnut brown and medium grey.

MICHÈLE JOULES For AW17, Joules delivers a stylish fusion of trend-led lifestyle and practical wear garments.

Inspiration is drawn from stolen trips to the great British coast. Nautical blues and striking reds sit in a variety of floral and abstract patterns, for an urban take on autumnal walks along the shore. Elsewhere, the influence of the seaside is apparent in interpretive botanical seaweed design in dusty pinks and greys – creating colour-clashing combinations perfect for transitional dressing as the summer draws to a close.

Fashion highlights include the Arvia tunic, which combines the capsule’s bold colours of navy and red, creating interest with a hotchpotch pattern and contrasting seam detail; the Lillian leggings with their feminine silhouette and placement prints; and the textured Harper skirt.

Influences from activewear make themselves felt in Michèle’s AW17 skirt collection: super stretch, technical cloths deliver the perfect comfort of wear, while high side slits with contrast piping are used as well as open edge finishes.

In the trouser range, jerseys and high-tech fabrics dominate while versatile, technical qualities in a variety of weights and surface textures form a bridge between casual and sportswear.

Equally apparent is the use of piping, elastic bands and overlock seams, which inspire narrow silhouettes, introducing a youthful aesthetic to the clothes.

Trouser shapes are varied, ranging from narrow, often ankle-length styles to soft draping Marleneinspired shapes. Narrow turn-ups and higher waistbands create a boyish look and form an exciting contrast to feminine shapes.

Futura | Menswear in Ireland | Footwear in Ireland 43

COLLECTIONS AW17

THAT’S ME Available in sizes 36-58, That’s Me’s AW17 collection provides covetable fashion for the larger plus-size lady that seeks to exude a stylish yet casual expression.

Clothes in the new collection – which Liam Lacey is showing at Unit 41A in Fashion City - are made in comfortable cuts, using highquality materials such as soft wool and jersey. Each piece, meanwhile, boasts That’s Me renowned excellent fit. The component designs, which include relaxed pants and flattering dresses, reflect current trends with a charismatic, feminine edge that gives a stylish and personal look.

TIA Specialising in fashion for the chic and festive woman, Tia’s AW17 collection – wwhich is available from Niall Scanlan and Aileen McKay at Unit 5 in Fashion City - is a celebration of feminine elegance fused with current trends.

Glamorous fabrics combine with feminine details and cuts on a series of diverse range of partywear pieces, including bootcut trousers, knee-length dresses and faux fur stoles, that are offered in sizes from Tia is available in sizes from 36 through to 48.

Pattern plays a key role in the collection, adding visual interest to everything from dresses to tops and outerwear.

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KIRSTEN KROG Specialising in beautiful occasionwear for small, medium and larger sized women, Kirsten Krog impresses with an AW17 collection that includes a wealth of high-class partywear.

Available from Niall Scanlan in sizes from UK 6 through to 30, all designs in the new range reflect the label’s focus on fit. As ever, Kirsten Krog grades all of its styles after a size UK 16.

Cleverly, patterns and details on the clothing have been deliberately located in places that accentuate the wearer’s figure, creating an illusion of a well-proportioned body.

COLLECTIONS AW17

SOLE TO SOLE CAPRICE With over 200 different models, the AW17 collection from Caprice features fashionable footwear styles to appeal to a diverse clientele.

Feminine last shapes become little works of art, thanks to attractive leather diversity and new lightweight bases. Elsewhere, long-shaft boots with decorative elastic elements provide a fashion highlight, while glamorous shoes in the new ‘Caprice Premium’ product line show how classical elegance and contemporary styles can merge.

Detailing is particularly important this season. Small accessories such as pendants, jewellery parts and zippers in shiny silver and gold feature prominently and enhance the appearance of various shoe styles.

In terms of colour, warm shades of maroon and cognac provide a colourful contrast to the dominant neutral and dark colours that are predominant. Key fabrics, meanwhile, include velvety suede, expressive patent leather and super soft nappa.

LEGERO The new Legero AW17 collection is casual, cool and cosy. It offers easy, intelligent comfort and protection – above all a result of GORE-TEX – and boasts additional functional features: all models are manufactured with directly injection-moulded, lightweight PU soles, convince with reliably excellent fit due to comfort lasts, have exchangeable insoles and are easy to put on.

The collection is based on three mood themes, each with its key component designs and unique palette. Whereas Urban Outdoor, the first theme, embodies a casual, urban everyday look for all occasions, Casual Comfort is heavy on authenticity and places the focus on athleisure and a relaxed lifestyle for both work and leisure. The final theme, Dress Casual, is a more playful and fashion-oriented variation of these two trends and offers novel boot designs with striking and interesting details, such as patent leather and crepe looks.

Fashion highlights include the Campania boot, which features a trendy crepe-look sole, is offered in different shaft lengths, with or without cuffs, and in a selection of suede colours, including black, navy blue, oxide grey/asphalt and ochre/ cinnamon.

LLOYD SHOES The casual business look continues to gain ground Lloyd’s AW17 collection in which new designs are marked by mixed materials and styles and, consequently, offer greater diversity and individuality.

Various leather and outer finishing along with unconventional embossing result in a distinctive style. Hand-finished models and new strongly masculine designs add plenty of visual interest, while fashion highlights include desert boots, trendy Chelsea boots and buckled shoes.

A new addition for AW17 is the sports-casual X-Motion series, which features a futuristic and supremely comfortable three-component sole, familiar flexible Strobel construction, removable high-tech insole and fashionable styling.

Lloyd’s colour palette ranges from numerous shades of wood, earth and mud plus wintery grey and nude hues to assorted shades of blue and nuances of warm Bordeaux and green.

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COLLECTIONS AW17

MARCO TOZZI The sporty casual look is an important component for Marco Tozzi’s AW17 collection.

In addition to stylish yet sporty low shoes, new slip-ons and lace-ups on fresh sole concepts are key to the range. The more fashion-forward styles, meanwhile, include lace-up, Chelsea and ankle boots.

An emphasis on high-quality materials is apparent throughout the range. Classic brush-finished materials, innovative uppers with colour gradients and brushed metallic all feature prominently. In a nod to the colder months, the collection also features fur trimmings as well as wool linings on the outside of certain styles or doubleface variations.

A broad and varied palette ranges from cognac and Muscat tones to Bordeaux, grey/steel and assorted dark blues. Accent colours include ice, rose, taupe and mauve.

MEPHISTO Style combined with comfort sums up Mephisto’s AW17 collection for ladies.

Designs for the active range, Allrounder, are vibrant and trendy with a comfortable fit. All contain the Mephitex breathable lining, which guarantees that footwear remains waterproof yet breathable.

Fashionable options abound in the boot range, which includes French designs and soft burnished calf leathers in a selection of on-trend colours.

Equally imressive is an extensive men’s range that sees the introduction of more formal styles featured in the collection. Goodyear-welted shoes ensure craftsmanship while attention to detail remains key.

MOBILS

S.OLIVER The ladies’ range from s.Oliver’s Red Label AW17 collection features a diverse range of footwear styles that encompass everything from over-the-knee boots and lace-ups to sneakers, slippers and feminine heels.

The collection focuses on typical autumn shades such as uses khaki, cognac, saffron and navy.

Black and grey are also key, while Bordeaux makes a statement and spices up the muted colours.

Fashion highlights include biker and lace-up boots, which are designed to be worn with trendy bomber jackets and mum jeans, as well as satin-lace-ups and patent leather boots.

Elsewhere, slippers and sneakers in exciting material combinations with felt or brushed surfaces create a new look without losing the authentic and sporty DNA of the collection.

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COLLECTIONS AW17

S.OLIVER (MENS’)

S.OLIVER (CHILDRENS’)

Available in sizes 40-46, s.Oliver’s men’s collection for AW17 is tailored perfectly to the rugged, urban man who feels just as at home in the great outdoors as he does in the busy city.

Boots run the gamut from Chelsea boots and low-cut models to boots with crèpe soles. Elsewhere, assorted brogues provide a classy form of business shoe while heavy, warm-lined boots with raised lasts provide a functional option for the great outdoors.

Simple lines characterise the collection. Interest is added, variously, with coloured edges, animal prints and embossed leather. Neoprene, felt and wool looks mixed with waxed leather or washed suede prove a nose for trends.

The palette is dominated by cognac tones in all variations, although wintry colours such as grey, olive, navy and black are key to the collection.

From sporty sneakers to biker style boots and unisex models, the s.Oliver RED LABEL children’s collection for AW17 showcases a wide range of new trendy styles and uses exciting material mixes with felt and knitwear alongside targeted, subtle decorative elements to create styles that are anything but childish.

Cute girls’ biker boots display a new more robust design and masculine shape.

Boys, meanwhile, can look forward to trendy trainers and rugged lace-up boots. Unisex options such as nubuck leather lace-up boots also key to the collection, epitomising the brand’s cool streetwear style.

Various red shades along with pink and purple make a bold statement in the girls’ palette, where they are in harmony with black and brown. For the boys, colours are based around autumnal shades such as olive and khaki.

SUPERFIT The AW17 Superfit collection is structured around three focal themes: Urban Casual, Street Sports and Winter Fun. The result is a comprehensive, trendy range that caters to boys and girls in any age segment, from babies to teens.

Whereas Urban Casual has an outdoor focus and features very casual designs, many with deep sole profiles to ensure firm grip, Street Sports is a broader range that extends from first-steps footwear for toddlers to sporty low-rise shoes for older kids.

The third theme, Winter Fun, comprises cuddly-warm, weather-proof winter footwear with a fresh, modern slant and many new, visually appealing details, such as star motifs on the soles for playful girls.

Throughout the entire range, various models catch the eye. Saturn, for example, is a new first-steps design for very young children that have just begun to crawl and require maximum comfort. Correspondingly, footwear here is super-soft and made from flexible natural rubber in eye-catching colours.

Elsewhere, Jupiter, a year-round shoe for active boys who like to spend lots of time outdoors, also catches the eye. This utilises a palette composed of shades of blue and green that range from cobalt and aqua to olive and medium green, while colour accents for the soles include neon green, orange or red.

TAMARIS For AW17, Tamaris has created a richly diverse world of fashionable footwear for women of all ages.

Sturdy biker boots make their fashion comeback, while wind- and weather-proof high-top sneakers stand out thanks to casual creeper and shell soles, as well as new fashion uppers. Elsewhere, studs are used great effect, appearing on the shafts of biker boots and ankle boots, as well as on classic loafers.

Ladies’ ankle boots have a rather more reserved look, with a greater focus on upper materials. Exciting new accents are created by mixing and matching suedes and lustrous snake textures.

In keeping with the diversity of shoe styles, the seasonal palette is similarly broad.

Classics such as black and charcoal are practically ubiquitous, while shades such as olive, Bordeaux and navy provide stylish alternatives.

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