Futura/Menswearinireland August 2016

FUTURA AUGUST 2016

THAT SUMMER FEELING: SS17 IN FOCUS TRENDS REPORTS: CASUALWEAR, DENIMS & SEPARATES

BREXIT: ITS POTENTIAL IMPACT ON IRISH BUSINESSES

VOX POP: BUSINESS IN 2016 SO FAR

ONE STEP AHEAD: THE FINEST SS17 FOOTWEAR

EDITOR’S LETTER

CONTENTS

s the dust settles following the recent referendum vote

A

4 NEWS

in the UK, the immediate reaction among many figures

in the fashion industry, both at home and abroad, was

one of despondency and despair. “It’s a tragedy,’ Dame Vivienne

10 NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

Westwood tweeted, while Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson described it

as “a nightmare”.

Across the Channel – and, indeed, the Irish Sea - there was

The need-to-know on the domestic and international fashion front

Retailer and fashionista Sadhbh Fahy talks about her new D4 ladies’ boutique, Electra

similar disbelief, with fashion executives expressing their concern

12 VOX POP:THE YEAR SO FAR

that it would become difficult and expensive to export European

From the recent summer sales and the importance of social media

and Irish goods to a UK market with diminishing post-Brexit

to hopes for the remainder of 2016, six footwear retailers share

consumer confidence.

their views of the year to date

The initial repercussions were, admittedly, drastic. Share prices for the likes of Next, Debenhams and Marks & Spencer tumbled on the result, while Sterling fell on the international currency market. Two

14 SHOPCALL

significant polls, produced by YouGov and the Centre for Economics and Business Research, showed

that consumer confidence in the UK dropped by 7.6 points after the referendum, its largest fall since the global crisis in 2008.

But what does it all mean for Ireland? Every week over €1.1bn of trade is conducted between the

Longford footwear specialist Fabiani is put under the consumer microscope

16 JEAN GENIUS

two islands, sustaining over 400,000 jobs directly and many more indirectly, so the ramifications are

potentially enormous.

17 THE OTHER SIDE OF

Certainly, Irish designers and brands exporting to the UK are expected to be adversely impacted. But what about retailers on or close to the border of Northern Ireland? If the results of our Vox Pop on page

12 – in which six footwear retailers reveal everything from their best-selling brands and the verdict on their recent summer sales to their review of business in the year so far - are anything to go by, the

How men’s denim is shaping up for SS17

How Christian Lawlor of Threadweave spends his time beyond the 9-5

effects of the impending Brexit are already being felt. As to the long-term, though, the only reasonable

18 MAKING A STATEMENT

prediction to be made is that the situation is 100% unpredictable.

What is far less in doubt, however, is that Irish independent retailers, whether boutique or large-scale,

The key trends for ladies’ denim in SS17

are an increasingly resourceful lot. From Sadhbh Fahy, whose newly opened Donnybrook boutique,

22 THAT SUMMER FEELING

Electra, has put a stylish pep in D4’s step, to Louise Brennan of Longford’s popular Fabiani shoe shop –

which is profiled in our Shopcall feature – these and other indies are flexing their marketing muscle in clever and creative ways, appeasing their existing clients while attracting new ones.

Our interviews this issue are with the aforementioned Fahy, who details her experiences setting

There’s a distinctly summery vibe permeating the ladies’ collections for SS17

23 RICH PICKINGS

up a high-end suburban boutique, and with Keelan Bourke, whose family business, Patrick Bourke

Menswear, has been keeping the men of Clare smartly dressed for almost 90 years.

24 CUTTING A DASH

As with our July issue, the fashion spotlight shines on the SS17 season. We’ve compiled the

How SS17’s ladies’ separates are shaping up

concluding section of our Style File, as well as trends reports on everything from ladies’ and men’s

separates to the key looks and designs in denim and footwear.

26 A FAMILY AFFAIR

As every, a sincere thanks to every one of our readers for your continued support and suggestions.

Please keep them coming!

Best wishes, Alexander

Men’s casualwear is looking decidedly dapper for SS17

Keelan Bourke of Patrick Bourke Menswear discusses the store’s extraordinary heritage and its plans for the future

Alexander Fitzgerald

28 ONE STEP AHEAD

Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie

The key looks and styles on the SS17 footwear horizon

32 SUMMER LOVIN’

Reviews of the key SS17 collections

published by: Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main St., Rathfarnham, Dublin 14. Tel: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 email: mail@futuramagazine.ie web: www.futuramagazine.ie

Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre features editor: Alexander Fitzgerald sales & marketing manager: Avril Smith, avril@futuramagazine.ie assistant editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue printing: Swift Print Solutions Subscription Rate: €69 a year (RoI) or €89 a year (Rest of the World) © 2016 Sky Publishing. All Editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publisher.

COVER IMAGE: Skopes SS17

NEWS

NEWS CALL FOR STRONG POLITICAL LEADERSHIP DURING BREXIT PHASE POSSIBLE FACELIFT PLANNED FOR ARNOTTS

According to planning application documents lodged with Dublin City Council, there are some dramatic changes in store for Henry Street’s popular emporium, Arnotts.

Permission has been sought to separate three units - numbers 7, 8 and 9 on Henry Street - into a separate 40,000 sq ft building. This area currently houses the ladies’ footwear department.

Interestingly, should these changes to the layout receive the go-ahead, the slight reduction in space will match the store’s original size as the units being currently discussed were only added in the 1960s.

It is thought that the revamp, which will have no impact on staff, is intended to facilitate the arrival of an international retailer such as Apple or Next as a way of enhancing the customer’s shopping experience.

However, should permission be granted, work isn’t expected to take place for a further two years.

FARAH LAUNCHES FORMAL RANGE THIS SUMMER This summer sees the first formalwear output from popular menswear range Farah.

In July, the brand introduced a strong new range that includes suits, shirts, outerwear and other accessories such as ties.

The collection, which is indicative of the current interest in well-priced formalwear amongst young men, will initially be available at the brand’s Covent Garden store in London and online at Asos. com, as well as selected independent retailers.

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Ireland’s largest retail industry representative bodies in the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland have called on the Northern Ireland Executive, British and Irish Governments to demonstrate strong leadership and a clear focus on jobs and business during the Brexit phase.

David Fitzsimons, CEO of Retail Excellence Ireland, and Glyn Roberts, CEO of NIIRTA, have called on both Governments to establish a roadmap for the exit with clear milestones where full consideration is given to the 360,000 retail jobs on the island of Ireland, which are dependent on both economies.

Speaking following a Brexit meeting between both organisations, both Mr. Roberts and Mr. Fitzsimons said: “There is deep concern amongst business owners about the possible impact of Brexit on both the Irish and British economies.

“It is important that during the Brexit phase, the Northern Ireland Executive, British and Irish Governments must demonstrate strong leadership and remain focused on the many jobs which depend on functioning and open market economies. It would be a significantly regressive step if there was any hardening of the border and any introduction of tariffs and quotas.”

They added: “Brexit should not be to the detriment of the largest industry in both economies – retail. We would urge Governments in Dublin, London and Belfast to clearly set out the roadmap

Titled Farah Tailoring, the collection consists of a selection of three-piece suiting and separate’s options. These include classic styles such as single and doublebreasted jackets with varying notch and peak lapels. Trousers and waistcoats are found with uniformed skinny cuts across the collection and simply follow the silhouette of the jackets.

Farah has chosen a tactile range of fabrics and colours to construct the suits. These include fine twills in burgundy and brilliant blue and textured hopsack in bottle green and light tan. Woven hounds tooth also features in several styles.

David Fitzsimons, CEO of Retail Excellence Ireland

for [the] exit and begin immediate cross-border talks to address the concerns of business during the exit process.“ Meanwhile, in the aftermath of the referendum, a leading UK trade magazine featured an extremely pointed front cover claiming the UK faces an uncertain future.

The editorial claimed that “the fashion industry must hold its nerve and maintain its focus on what it does best: designing, manufacturing, selling and exporting.”

In terms of the impact on the Irish retailers, the title mentioned the possibility of visa requirements being introduced, while the addition of heavy custom duties for Irish companies selling in the UK is also a possibility.

While it could take close to two years for the withdrawal process to be complete, numerous questions need answers now. It is hoped, however, that once the dust settles, Britain may negotiate certain policies with regards to trading with some of its key European counterparts, such as Ireland.

NEWS

DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE SECURES NEW OWNERS After much speculation, the popular Dundrum Town Centre has finally found new owners. In early July, Hammerson, along with Allianz Real Estate, finalised a consensual borrower agreement with Chartered Land, its previous owners.

The deal was the result of Hammerson and Allianz acquiring loans secured against the south Dublin retailer as part of Nama portfolio Project Jewel.

In a press release issued by Hammerson, Chief Executive David Atkins stated that: “Acquiring Dundrum, one of Europe’s leading shopping destinations, is a game-changing step for Hammerson and increases the diversification of our prime European retail property portfolio.

“This will provide us with immediate scale and market leadership from which to capitalise on the strong consumer backdrop in Dublin. Dundrum’s

RETAIL SALES GROWTH RATE FLAT FOR Q2 2016 The Grant Thornton REI Q2 Retail Productivity Review of retail sales paints a concerning picture as industry growth rates continue to flatline. Some sectors performed well, whilst others experienced like for like declines.

The clement spell of weather in late May and early June helped the agriculture and garden sectors, which saw over 9 per cent growth for the quarter. Other areas were less fortunate with fashion and footwear seeing a decline in the quarter, across women’s and children’s wear as well as jewellery.

Some home categories performed reasonably well with growth in large home appliances of 14 per cent and gift/homeware also up. Somewhat concerning is the like-for-like dip in furniture and flooring sales over the period, which had seen a sustained growth over the last three quarters.

The impact during the quarter of Ireland’s political instability and the Brexit determination most certainly contributed to a disappointing quarter overall.

Commenting on the Q2 Data, Lynn Drumgoole, Communications Director said: “There were winners and losers across the Quarter 2 period and weather and politics playing significant roles.

4 | August 2016

ARNOTTS SHEDS SOME BULK performance over the period since acquiring the loans has reaffirmed the potential within the portfolio, and we look forward to implementing our asset management and longer-term development initiatives to drive value,” he added.

Annette Kroger, Allianz Real Estate Germany CEO, continued to saying: “We see this transaction as a valuable opportunity to invest in the Irish real estate market and diversify our portfolio into a high-growth European economy as part of our global investment strategy.

“Thanks to our collaboration with Hammerson, we have a distinguished and leading real estate expert at our side with whom we have been working successfully over many years.”

“A most definite concern is the reduction in growth rates across a number of sectors in the industry and an overall flat quarter after the lift of Q1.

Whilst political instability and Brexit have had and continue to have a significant impact on trading, a greater concern is that underlying consumer confidence is eroding.”

He added: “It is for that reason that we need a real political focus on the needs of the domestic economy and the full implementation of the promised Employers PRSI reduction for low paid workers to enable employers to sustain the National Minimum Wage (NMW) increase of €0.50 per hour since January 2016 and a further likely increase of €0.10 in January 2017.

“Furthermore, having an annual reveal of the National Minimum Wage does not allow for effective business planning and thus the NMW should be determined by the Low Pay Commission in three-year cycles.”

Damian Gleeson, Partner at Grant Thornton commented:

Property developer Noel Smyth is hiving off almost 10% of the Arnotts department store in Dublin into a large stand-alone store, and is aiming to lure a big international retailer.

The creation of the new 3,800 sq metre store at 7-9 Henry Street, Dublin 1 is part of a split of assets agreed last year between Smyth’s Fitzwilliam Finance Partners and Selfridges, which has taken over the Arnotts store. The separation of the buildings will reduce the gross floor area of Arnotts from almost 42,000 sq m to 38,120 sq m.

A spokesman for Arnotts said the development would have no impact on job numbers at the store.

“Our vision is to return Arnotts’ retail footprint to the original iconic building, “ he said.

Smyth’s new store will have its own entrance and retails space in a basement, ground floor, first and second floors. The third and fourth floors will continue to be used by Arnotts.

Damian Gleeson

“The Q2 figures clearly demonstrate that it is time for Government to step up to the plate. With industry growth rates flatlining, the upcoming budget represents a good time to put some cash back into consumer pockets and help alleviate the negative impact of early year domestic political uncertainty and more recently Brexit.

“It also gives Government an opportunity to assist Employers who having been battered by 8 years of recession are looking at further increases in the minimum wage. A reduction in Employers PRSI is necessary in order to counteract the minimum wage increase or we will see further business failure,” he concluded.

Spring Summer Collection 2017

MODA UK August 7th - 9th 2016 - Stand T31 Showing At Unit 43 Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24.

www.michaelalouisa.com Contact Grace Mc Govern on 087 6203285

NEWS

BROWN THOMAS AIMS TO EXPAND DUNDRUM’S BT2 Brown Thomas, one of the country’s most prestigious department stores, is set to continue its national domination with reports suggesting that it intends to double the size of its BT2 presence in the Dundrum Shopping Centre.

These developments have occurred following talks between the retailer and Hammerson, the shopping centre’s new owners. It is believed that the goal is to double Brown Thomas’ retail from 9,000 square feet to 18,000 square feet.

However, it appears that Brown Thomas is not alone in its desire to expand in the popular south Dublin shopping centre - River Island and H&M are both thought to be keen to expand their respective units.

Ownership of Dundrum Town Centre officially changed hands Hammerson in early July.

CASTLEBLAYNEY SHOPPING CENTRE SOLD AT AUCTION

A shopping centre in Co. Monaghan’s Castleblayney, along with adjoining land, was due to go under the hammer recently but was acquired by an unnamed buyer prior to the auction.

The sale was the culmination of years of drama surrounding the centre. Initially owned by Jim McConnon, the developer found himself swamped in debt when the recession hit. McConnon had borrowed a sum close to €10 million from AIB, who later withdrew when the cost for the development mushroomed to €32 million. Zurich Bank then swooped in, but in 2009, it was evident that the centre’s days were numbered.

The recent auction, which was overseen by Allsop, saw the price of the 25-unit retailer being sold for just a fraction of the boom-time value. The reserve price was between €320,000 and €440,000.

6 | August 2016

Maria Cárdenas

IRISH COLOMBIAN LINEN DESIGNER MAKES IMPACT AT GLOBAL IRISH DESIGN CHALLENGE Maria Cárdenas, a third generation tailor, originally from Colombia, now based in County Down, found success with her linen coat, which was exhibited at the Global Irish Design Challenge.

The event’s aim was to showcase and promote Irish design and Irish linen, contributing to the renaissance of a niche Irish product with a heritage and provenance that is almost unique. Despite the damage caused by many years of outsourcing and deskilling locally, and a shift to offshore production, there remains a small base of local skills and expertise in Irish linen and there is now a drive to re-establish Irish Linen as a highly sought after commodity.

Cárdenas works in Irish Linen and other natural fabrics to create designs in well-defined shapes and with a subtle, wearable, crafted style. Aside from the Global Irish Design Challenge, the Irelandbased designer has participated in design events in Milan, London, Croatia, France, Belfast and Dublin, as well as the US. She was part of the British Fashion Showcase in the Embassy in Dublin prior to the Queen’s visit in 2011 and is an associate member of the Irish Linen Guild.

“Irish Linen is a fabric for our times,” says Cárdenas. “A plant and material that are sustainable, with proven qualities beneficial to health and well-being, and a vast range of uses. It is part of the weave of history in Ireland – particularly in Ulster – and carries with it a true sense of place. “[Global Irish Design Challenge promotes] its discovery and appreciation by a new generation,” she believes.

SURVEY REVEALS NEW SHOES FOR LARGER SIZES CAN BE ‘SOLE’ DESTROYING A new survey conducted by Irish company Cinderella Shoes has revealed that a worrying 68 per cent of ladies with larger than average size feet have damaged their feet by wearing shoes that are too small.

Additionally, 96 per cent with size 8 and over, despair that most shops don’t stock their size while 79 per cent dislike shopping for shoes with 11per cent admitting to being reduced to tears. Also worryingly, 17 per cent hate shopping for shoes because they are embarrassed about their shoe size and 16 per cent only shop for shoes when it is an absolute must. It seems that heels are a tall order with 43 per cent citing them as extremely difficult to find and trainers are the easiest to find in large sizes.

Research shows that as generations of women grow taller and heavier, their feet have gotten larger. Today, the average female’s feet are oneand-a-half sizes bigger than 10 years ago. And yet, despite the 80 per cent increase in the number of women taking a size nine, shops have been slow to catch on.

Celebrities like Angelina Jolie, size 9, Paris Hilton, 9, Macy Gray, 10, are ‘sole sisters’ in the big feet department whilst Scarlett Johansson, 9.5, Michelle Obama, 9, and Elle McPherson, 9.5, also boast larger than average feet.

Cinderella Shoes brings a shoe shopping solution with a vast variety of larger sizes including 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 in a vast array of colours to match any outfit. Now under new management, the brand has a fresh look and mobile-friendly website for shopping on the go.

They are an Irish Company with a global audience and ships to its customers worldwide including Zimbabwe, America, Pakistan, Dubai, Japan and India.

Wortmann Gruppe Internationale Schuhproduktionen · Detmold/Germany · Phone: +49 52 31 605.129 · Fax: +49 52 31 605.5.129 · E-mail: sales@wortmann.com · wortmann.com Tamaris Ireland · David Coogan · 10, Shrewsbury Manor · Drogheda, Co. Louth · Phone: +353 41 9847369 · Mobile: +353 86 2779480 · E-mail: david.coogan@wortmann.com · tamaris.com

NEWS

REMUS UOMO CELEBRATES 25 YEARS Leading fashion brand Remus Uomo IS “celebrating in style” as it recognises 25 years of leading men’s fashion.

The successful menswear brand has been a major force in the independent fashion retail sector for a quarter-century after being established by brothers Richard and Donald Finlay in 1991 when they saw a gap in the market for a younger, more fashion-oriented range of tailoring.

The brothers took their inspiration from the modern silhouettes and refined styling of Italian tailoring and combined it with the same attention to detail and dedication to quality for which their company, Douglas and Grahame, had become renowned.

Since then, Remus Uomo has gone from strength to strength, expanding beyond its formalwear roots into a dynamic and fashionable lifestyle brand with over 300 wholesale customers across the UK and Ireland. The brand also has flagship stores in Belfast and Glasgow, franchise stores in Ballymena and Galway and concessions across the UK and Europe.

Remus Uomo is consistently named as one of the UK & Ireland’s best Menswear Brands by fashion trade journal Drapers in their annual Drapers Independents Awards and is a regular feature in the pages of leading fashion magazines such as GQ and Esquire.

Managing Director of Douglas & Grahame, Donald Finlay said: “Reaching our 25th anniversary is a fantastic accomplishment for Remus Uomo. We see this milestone as the brand’s ‘Coming of Age,’ with more fashion editors and consumers engaging with

the brand and more independent menswear retailers responding to the full Remus Uomo lifestyle offer.

“My brother, Richard, who I took over from recently as Managing Director, has been key to the development of Remus Uomo and it is a tribute to his expertise that it has grown to become our flagship brand. That knowledge has been successfully passed on to myself and my son, Adam, who has spent several years learning the menswear business with Richard and brings a renewed sense of modern style to our collections.”

Donald continued: “The pace of change in our industry is very fast and it is a testament to the quality of design and manufacture of our products and to the team behind the brand that Remus Uomo has reached such a significant anniversary.

“However, we’re always looking forward and we have ambitious plans for the coming years with a new website currently in development and recent senior appointments in sales and marketing to drive the brand onwards to even greater success.”

QUARTET OF NEW BRANDS FOR FASHIONHSE Following the closure on 1 July 2016 of the Steilmann group, Gráine O’Rourke Ltd. - which had represented the Steilmann company in Ireland since 1968 and grew the brand to one of the most successful and recognised ladies’ clothing brands in the country – have expanded their portfolio with the addition of four new labels.

Having recently supplemented their offering with collections by Diane Laury, Bandalero, Ecla and Unica Textil, this now brings the total number of brands in Graine O’Rourke Ltd to 14, when added to the existing brands of Peruzzi, Bellenisa, Naf Naf, Adrianna Papell, Gustav, Zhensi, Personal 8 | August 2016

Peruzzi

Choice, NAYA and Kate Cooper and Odemai The team at Graine O’Rourke Ltd are currently presenting all collections at their Fashion City showroom until 9 September.

NAYA

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Joseph Silver and Egan Ice Blue - 3 Piece Suits

Frazier 100% Wool - 3 Piece Suits

Joss Grey Wool Mix - 3 Piece Suit

Shields Wool Mix - 3 Piece Suit

Capri Stripe Blazer and Padstow Chino

Sunningdale Jacket and Waistcoat

Joss Indigo Wool Mix - 3 Piece Suit Willow Micro Puppy Tooth - 3 Piece Suit

Robinson Navy Check Wool Mix Suit - Waistcoat Available

Frazier Grey 100% Wool – 3 Piece Suit

Segredo Cotton Blazer and Waistcoat

Padua Wool Mix Check Blazer

Geneva Linen Stripe Blazer

Charles Wool Linen Blend Blazer and Waistcoat

Paco Blue Textured Wool Mix Blazer

Burrell Grey Twill Wool Mix Blazer Rafael Blue Birdseye Wool Mix Blazer

Firenze Stone Cotton Trench Coat

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(+44) 113 2402211

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www.skopes.com

Amalfi Wool Mix Check Jacket

NEWS

ANDREAS SCHIMON TAKES ON A FRESH CHALLENGE After eight years of being associated with the German menswear expert Création Gross, Andreas Schimon, Product Manager for CG-Club of Gents, will take on a fresh challenge at the end of this year.

Having carried out an apprenticeship at Peek & Cloppenburg, followed by high-profile engagements as Head of Department and Deputy

GERRY WEBER CLOSES DIFFICULT FIRST QUARTER 2015/16

The existing Brown Thomas website

BROWN THOMAS TO LAUNCH WORLDCLASS WEBSITE IN SEPTEMBER Brown Thomas will shortly be launching an extensively upgraded website.

The Grafton Street department store is replatforming at a cost believed to be approximately €2 million.

The date for the website’s launch has been brought forward to September, according to Stephen Sealey, GM of the Brown Thomas Group, because of the growth of its online sales.

Sealey promises that the enhanced website will offer a significantly improved user experience in terms of navigation, filtering and movement. It will also see the introduction of customer reviews of beauty products along with a great number of videos.

“Currently when you search, it brings you to the product but the new website will take you to a page with three options – the product, editorial about the product and related video content,” Sealey explained.

Customers seeking clothing, such as a pair of jeans, will have the option of booking an appointment with a member of the store’s staff, load their selected options and sizes online, and when they go into the store, the items will be waiting for them in a changing room to try on.

Sealey views this engagement as the future of personal shopping and it is slated to be available through the Brown Thomas website in the autumn.

“I am confident that when our new website launches, it will be a world-class website.”

Managing Director at Anson´s KG, in 2008, Schimon entered the Franconian fashion company as its retail manager. Between 2011 and 2016, the 35-yearold was responsible for Andreas Schimon the creative and stylistic direction of CG-Club of Gents, the company’s young menswear brand.

As product manager, Schimon played an essential part in the success of the brand and developed the collection on its way to becoming a lifestyle brand.

HOUSE OF FRASER IN THE BLACK AFTER TEN YEARS The tills belonging to House of Fraser are currently in fine fettle. For the first time in a decade, the department store has returned to profit thanks mainly to buoyant online business and refinancing under its new Chinese owners.

The clothing emporium – which has an Irish presence in Dundrum Town Centre and Belfast’s Victoria Square - achieved pre-tax profits of £1.3 million STG in the 12 months to 30 January, compared to a £2.9 million STG loss a year before, as sales rose 4.2 per cent to £1.3 billion STG. Online sales, which rose by 27 per cent, represented nearly a fifth of the group’s total.

Additionally, the company has slashed its annual interest bill by £5 million STG a year after replacing high-yield bonds with other cheaper debt following the acquisition by Chinese conglomerate Sanpower.

Moving forward, the company intends on investing a sizeable £40 million STG in the year ahead, notably improving the website along with refurbishing a handful of stores. There are also plans to expand across China with the first store opening in Nanjing later this year.

Currently, the lone House of Fraser overseas store is found in Abu Dhabi.

The Gerry Weber Group generated sales revenues of €213.7 million in the first quarter of 2015/’16.

The 11.1 per cent increase on the previous year is attributed to the consolidation of the Hallhuber subsidiary, which contributed €50.5 million to the Group’s revenues. The Gerry Weber Core Retail segment reported an expansion-related 3.4 per cent increase in first-quarter sales revenues to €109.6 million.

However, like-for-like revenues of the Gerry Weber Core Retail segment declined by 7.5 per cent. Sales revenues of the company’s Core Wholesale segment were also down on the previous year quarter to €53.6 million. This is due to lower pre-order volumes on the part of the Wholesale customers but also to a shift in deliveries. Moreover, shop-in-shops were reclassified from the wholesale segment to the retail segment.

Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation of the Group dropped from €24.2 million to €14.5 million, which was primarily due to the decline in the high-margin revenues of the Wholesale segment and the Gerry Weber Core Retail segment’s like-for-like revenues. Hallhuber contributed €5.1 million to the Group’s EBITDA in the first three months of 2015/16.

The continued difficult market environment and internal shortcomings of the past are weighing heavily on sales revenues and the profitability of the company’s core segments. As such, in February, the Managing Board announced a realignment programme for the Group in order to counter-act the current downward trend and secure profitability and growth in the long term.

August 2016 | 9

INTERVIEW

New Kid On The Block Fresh from recently opening Electra, her chic new ladies’ boutique in the heart of Dublin 4, retailer and fashionista Sadhbh Fahy caught up with Futura to talk about her exciting new venture Congratulations on the new store, Sadhbh; it’s getting a great reaction so far.

Thank you! We opened at 12, Donnybrook Road on 9 June, 2016 – a Thursday evening – and things have been great so far.

From your own sense of style to the look and feel of Electra, it’s obvious that fashion is a passion for you.

Yes, it has definitely always been an interest! I don’t actually ‘come’ from the fashion industry, though. My sense of fashion and of style has evolved through my travels: I spent a year in Madrid before college, then two in San Francisco before settling in Paris in 2001.

I worked in creative industries in Paris firstly in record companies. I was definitely influenced by my friends, colleagues and the artists I worked with, who were often extremely fashion-forward. But just living in Paris in general really influenced my sense of style.

At Apple, my role involved sourcing speakers and artists to participate in live events. I sourced and hosted various events around the fashion industry, including with fashion designers, photographers, journalists, entrepreneurs and business people in the fashion world.

and helped me keep a cool head!

Already I have had people straight-up trying to steal my brands! I learned that two days after I opened, a nearby clothing store started trying to distribute my brands!

How do you plan to market the shop and attract new customers?

Since opening, my clients are style-conscious ladies aged anywhere between 20 and, believe it or not, 85. The core market, though, is ladies in their 30s, 40s and 50s.

I have a great location on a busy street. I had a well-known French designer create my logo, which, I think, is simple, elegant and strong.

As a result, the store looks sharp from the outside, which is always the first step.

Opening mid-season, I decided to do an organic launch. For the first few weeks my main focus is to get up and running, relying on friends, word-of-mouth and Social Media.

Social Media is certainly proving to be an increasingly popular medium for retailers.

How are you using it to your advantage?

I use Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. I use it to inform myself of what’s going on around me, to build a network and to connect and communicate with friends and clients directly.

Opening any business, not least in the fashion sector, can be fraught with difficulties. What were the key challenges that you faced in starting Electra?

Being a suburban retailer, you don’t face as much direct competition from other fashion retailers as you might if you were located in, say, Dundrum Town Centre or Dublin city centre.

The main challenge I had was securing the lease of the premise. I was buying an existing lease from a party of three. Let’s just say something simple became something very complicated indeed!

My timeline was compromised by the above, which had a knock-on effect on everything else.

I’m very grateful to have had Robert Ganly of Ganly Walters act for me; he advised me well

I don’t quite see it like that. Dublin is a small city; it’s easy for people to get from one place to another - so your main competitor could be someone on the other side of the city. I also believe geographical proximity to similar retailers is actually very beneficial. For example, if you want to go shopping in Paris, you might go to Le Marais, because there is a concentration of boutiques there. Dundrum

Apart from Marian Gale and Havana, Donnybrook is not exactly over-run with ladies-wear boutiques. What type of woman are you aiming for?

10 | August 2016

wasn’t an appropriate location for my offering but the city centre was definitely an option.

I am not in competition with the other clothing boutiques in Donnybrook as we all cater for different markets, but I believe we benefit from each other being there.

Carving a niche in already cluttered ladieswear market is never easy. How do you intend on being competitive and attracting customers?

I offer a luxury shopping experience in a relaxed and welcoming setting. It’s very important to me that people do not feel intimidated coming in to the store. The spacious, inviting layout is quite different from anything else I have seen in Ireland.

All of my products are of the highest quality.

I propose a mix of relaxed day-wear and very elegant evening wear, and also cater for a wide demographic. I carry many brands that are exclusive to Electra. And finally – and crucially – I place great importance to detail and customer care, which are the bedrock of the business.

It certainly sounds like an attractive retail proposition. If you were to whittle it down, what would you say is Electra’s USP? I have just moved back to Dublin after 15 years in Paris. The concept of the store is very French: basically I’m bringing over my favourite brands that I discovered in France - from the classic leather sandal by K Jacques (St Tropez) to beautiful silks and cashmeres

by Vanessa Bruno or the Belgian, Christian Wijnants, to delicate rose gold jewellery by Ginette NY to giftware by Astier de Villatte….

For the most part you won’t find my brands elsewhere in Ireland. People also come for the personal touch and the boutique experience.

The store has a really clean, contemporary feel. This was obviously something you were

www.superfit.at

INTERVIEW keen to create when designing the interior.

Definitely – I personally invested a lot of time in getting the design, décor and fit-out just right! I tried to keep the costs down, so I did everything myself.

Key details are the iron clothing rails, which I designed. It took a few goes to get the finish right but we got there in the end! Likewise, I had a jewellery cabinet made up as I couldn’t find anything in the spirit of the store I was trying to create.

Every detail was considered. The floor, for example, was a very important decision. My splash-out piece is the marble POS countertop which I sourced with help from the lovely people at Stone Merchant.

What brands are you investing heavily in at the moment?

For the opening, my main brands are Vanessa Bruno and Carven.

Not far behind are Christian Wijnants, Maison Kitsuné, K Jacques, Aurélie Bidermann and Ginette NY.

And how has business been for you since opening?

It has been amazing. I’ve only been open a few weeks and already the response has been fantastic!

What have proved to be the top-selling brands so far?

All of the brands have been very well received, to be honest. I’ve been selling Maison Kitsuné and Carven very well. People are delighted to see Vanessa Bruno and to discover Christian Wijnants.

They are loving the K Jacques sandals, Epice scarves and the gift range from Astier de Villatte.

Are your customers proving to be brand-conscious and/ or price-conscious?

I would say 50% of the time I am introducing people to the brands I stock but they are definitely interested/conscious.

And yes, people are for the most part price-conscious. That said, the majority of customers are happy to purchase a dress or an outfit in which they look stunning and which will keep for many years.

They do look at the price, of course, but they are also looking at the quality, cut and timelessness of the pieces.

As the buyer for Electra, do you visit any of the international trade shows?

I don’t attend the trade shows; rather I have one-on-one appointments at the designers’ showrooms.

What are the most important lessons you’ve learnt in business and that you have applied to the launch of Electra?

Big responsibility for your feet.

Kids can only have fun in sturdy shoes that can keep up with all of their adventures. That’s why, as one of the most successful manufacturers of children’s shoes, Superfit pays so much attention to perfect workmanship and the highest quality materials. We take quality very seriously. Because after all, we take big responsibility for your feet.

Anything that can go wrong will. Resourcefulness, perseverance and determination are the key.

Looking ahead, how do you see the summer and the rest of 2016 panning out?

I’ll use the summer to start getting my store’s name out there. I expect exponential growth at this stage since I am just starting out.

And, finally, how about plans for the future? Obviously the store is still in its infancy, but have you hopes and ambitions (grand or otherwise) for Electra?

I’ll introduce some new brands over the coming seasons, certainly.

And hopefully I’ll hire my first member of staff !

Fashion City Dublin 5th – 8th September 2016 Ireland Sales Representative Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. • +44 (0) 7775 995 547 marcus.baker@legero.at * The result is based on the analysis of 342 returned evaluation forms with the August 2016 | 11 stipulated rating scale: good, average and bad.

VOXPOP

SIX OF THE BEST: The Year So Far From the verdict on their summer sales and the performance of key brands to their plans for the future, six of the nation’s leading independent footwear retailers share their respective experiences of business in 2016

NOEL FAHY

OWNER OF NOEL FAHY FOOTWEAR, CASHEL, CO. TIPPERARY How has business been so far this year?

Overall, business has been satisfactory.

Our industry is so dependent on the weather so we took a hit in April but, thankfully, it picked up again in May. What is the profile of your clientele?

We cater for the entire family – men, women and children. The emphasis would primarily be on comfort rather than fashion.

What brands have proven successful for you recently?

Nothing sticks out as having done particularly better than others – most labels have held their own and proven to be quite steady. Last year, brands like Skechers and Jose Saenz did really well and they continue to do so.

Have you introduced any new brands this season?

Not this year; we have just developed the brands we have been previously stocking.

Last year, we introduced Jose Saenz and Caprice, both of which have proven extremely popular with our customers.

Have there been any changes to the layout of the store recently, or are there any planned for the future?

Yes, we introduced plenty of changes in February when we had a big re-vamp. The main focus was a colour upgrade – inside and out – and we brought in new furniture.

Everything is much brighter instore now. We also added new shelves to the children’s department. We also brought in LED lighting, which is revolutionary these days, not just in terms of saving energy but also in how it displays stock.

Have you had a summer sale, and has it been a success?

Yes, and the response has been extremely positive. In Cashel, sales start very early, usually at the start of June. We held off from entering our sale until a couple of weeks later. Summer is so weather-driven and has a huge impact on what appeals to customers.

12 | August 2016

MARGARET KEEGAN JAMES J MURPHY OWNER OF MARGARELLE SHOE BOUTIQUE, MULLINGAR

OWNER OF JAMES J MURPHY, ENNISCORTHY, CO. WEXFORD

How has business been so far this year?

I’m quite happy with business so far this year. The beginning of summer was slow largely on account of the poor weather, but as the climate improved, so did business.

How has business been so far this year?

This year has definitely been better than last year. I think we are definitely getting over difficult times. Everything seems to be more positive.

What is the profile of your clientele?

We are a ladies shoes boutique that also stocks handbags. Our main clientele would be ladies 20+. We carry stock that would be medium to high-end.

What is the profile of your clientele?

We look after the entire family – ladies, gents and children.

What brands have proven successful for you recently?

We have had a lot of success with Amy Huberman’s collections. Peter Kaiser and Högl are some of our other popular brands.

Have you introduced any new brands this season?

We are always introducing new brands and changing things around to keep everything fresh. For example, we rested Tommy Hilfiger for a few seasons and have since re-introduced him.

Have there been any changes to the layout of the store recently, or are there any planned for the future?

I like to describe the store as a little gem, it’s like a boutique you would find in Spain. It’s small and intimate, and we have dedicated much time and energy into creating the atmosphere that we now have. For now, we are very happy with how everything looks so nothing is planned for the future.

Have you had a summer sale, and has it been a success?

Yes, we started our sale in mid-June and, to begin with, we offered discounts of 20 per cent, then 30 per cent and now 50 per cent.

Overall, business has been quite brisk.

How important is social media for your business these days?

We are extremely active on Facebook.

We are constantly uploading new images to announce sales, competitions or new stock and brands. It really generates plenty of interest and entices people to come into the store.

What brands have proven successful for you recently?

At the moment, we’re doing strong business with Dubarry for the backto-school season. Wrangler shoes and Skechers are also really popular.

For ladies, there is a lot of interest in brands like Caprice and Marco Tozzi.

Have you introduced any new brands this season?

We recently added Ecco, which is proving to be a hit with the customers.

Have there been any changes to the layout of the store recently, or are there any planned for the future?

We haven’t done anything drastic with the three stores recently, but we try to freshen things up as much as possible, making little changes here and there.

Have you had a summer sale, and has it been a success?

Yes, we entered into sales towards the end of June, early July, and they are coming to the end of it now. We’ve been tipping over, thankfully. I’m pleased how everything is going so far.

How important is social media for your business these days?

It’s not something that we have properly invested time into but, moving forward, we are going to get a Facebook page up and running.

What plans do you have for the future?

There’s nothing immediately planned for the future but we are always on the look-out for new brands and trends. The footwear industry is constantly evolving, which makes it an exciting business to be in.

VOXPOP

MARION JONES OWNER OF SHOEBOX, TUBERCURRY, CO. SLIGO

How has business been so far this year?

I would say that things have been similar to last year. Being honest, I wouldn’t be overly happy with business – the summer has been pretty bad with the weather playing a major role.

What is the profile of your clientele?

We stock for ladies, gents and children but the ladies market is definitely our main focus. The age profile would be 40 – 50.

What brands have proven successful for you recently?

We have had lots of interest in Skechers, which have been really popular with our customers. Rieker is another successful brand for us.

Have you introduced any new brands this season?

Last year, we introduced Skechers, something that has gone down a storm with our customers and has continued to do so into this year as well.

KEVIN MCGARRIGLE PETER PHELAN OWNER OF MCGARRIGLE SHOES, LETTERKENNY, CO. DONEGAL

How has business been so far this year?

All things considered, we haven’t been doing too badly this year. We are certainly up on last year. The fine weather in May really boosted things.

A big obstacle for us at the moment is the weakness of the Sterling. Being only 15 minutes from Derry, we benefitted from cross-border trade over the years; however, following Brexit, things have changed dramatically.

What is the profile of your clientele?

Men and women, although we don’t have options for children. We provide our customers with comfortable quality footwear.

What brands have proven successful for you recently?

Our number one brand is Rieker. We also do great business with Pitollos, Mustang and Wolky, which is an extremely comfortable walking option.

Have there been any changes to the layout of the store recently, or are there any planned for the future?

We have no major re-fits planned but I am constantly moving things around in the store – making little changes here and there.

Have you introduced any new brands this season?

We brought in a couple of Spanish brands recently – Callaghan and Paula Urban. I attend fashion fairs – recently in Milan – but I sourced these particular ones from our agent. I find Spanish footwear to very reliable with a great fit.

Have you had a summer sale, and has it been a success?

Like lots of business in Sligo and Castlebar, we started our sales in the third week of June. We invested quite a lot into the sales, placing adverts on local radio, texting customers and promoting on Facebook. I had hoped for better business but it has been a little slow.

Have there been any changes to the layout of the store recently, or are there any planned for the future?

We are discussing some future changes at the moment. We hope to make a few improvements to the lay-out as well as introducing eco-friendly LED lighting.

How important is social media for your business these days?

I’ve only recently used Facebook as a way of supporting the business. Until now, I felt that my main customers wouldn’t be using social media much, but it turns out they do. I’m also finding it to be a good way to attract younger customers.

What plans do you have for the future?

Social media is definitely something that I’m going to invest more time into.

Have you had a summer sale, and has it been a success?

Yes, we entered our sale on 19 June and it has been doing really well. We pride ourselves in offering genuine sales. All our season’s shoes gets a mark-down - we don’t buy in stock specifically to entice customers.

How important is social media for your business these days?

We haven’t a presence online – instead, we pursue promotional opportunities through advertising in the media.

OWNER OF WACKY SHOES, LIMERICK How has business been so far this year?

Business has been okay. We are very weather dependent so early June was quite a busy time for us. In the first two weeks of July, things were a bit flatter.

We need better weather!

What is the profile of your clientele?

We have stock for the entire family – men, women and children.

What brands have proven successful for you recently?

One brand that stands out is XTI, which we have done great business with.

Have you introduced any new brands this season?

We introduced Crocs late last year and it has been really good for us.

Have there been any changes to the layout of the store recently, or any planned for the future?

We haven’t had many changes recently and don’t have anything planned for the near future.

Have you had a summer sale, and has it been a success?

Yes, we started our sales in June and people have been very interested so far, thankfully.

How important is social media for your business these days?

We are extremely active on social media. We have a really good Facebook page where we run plenty of competitions, which often generate more than 7,000 hits. We are also visible on Twitter and Instagram. We have a website and while we don’t sell directly, it opens a dialogue between the store and our customers – for instance, if a customer clicks on a pair of shoes, we will then email them and offer to post them out to them or invite them to purchase them instore.

What plans do you have for the future?

I’m very keen to develop the online store where we reach a point where we can sell directly. I’d like to marry our stock control system to our website.

August 2016 | 13

SHOPCALL

Shopcall Recently relocated to Main Street in Longford, from its former longestablished location on Grafton Court, Fabiani’s move in mid-December to a substantially bigger unit has added to strong mix of well-established fashion retail in the town centre. But would an DISPLAY Continuing the ‘industrial chic’ look and feel, increase in size and visibility work in Fabiani’s display incorporates scaffolding the retailer’s favour? Our undercover poles and planks which function cleverly as shopper paid an unscheduled visit to shelving to display many of the shop’s shoe selection; and a clothes rack which has been run the rule and report back on their designed simultaneously. findings.

Expressive of the boutiques’s commitment LOCATION Positioned centrally at 19-20 Main Street in Longford, Fabiani benefits from a prime location in the heart of the town. Such a location means that Fabiani benefits from standing alongside other well established local fashion retailers such as immediate neighbours including Aine’s and Unique Boutique, both of which are also independent retailers. The collective benefit in this prized spot is the access to a significant and almost constant footfall.

WINDOW DISPLAY A strong statement is made by a fresh and unique approach , the uncluttered window display that features a selection of key pieces while allowing the passer-by look beyond and get a feel of the fashionable interior beyond.

DÉCOR Keen to stand out from the competition, Fabiani has a bold, contemporary decor that makes an instantly favourable impression.

Polished concrete adds a trendy industrial touch underfoot, while a mix of recessed spotlights and track lighting ensure both task and ambient lighting are looked after.

Clever decorative details here and there reinforce the creative vibe. These include the instillation of a pallet feature which takes up the entire rear wall. This area also features a large version of the shop’s distinctive logo.

Colours, meanwhile, are kept to a minimum, allowing the product to shine.

Both the jewellery bar and the main counter, for instance, are painted in black with a white trim. Less in this case is certainly more.

14 | August 2016

to sustainability and growth is its decorative centrepiece of two natural birch trees.

An inquiry as to the significance of this decorative detail led to the discovery that the birch tree is a solar emblem, and facilitates passion, energy and growth.

STAFF Our midweek visit coincided with three sales staff working the floor. Courteous to a fault, each was stylishly presented and quick to greet customers.

A query regarding sizing was handled professionally and informatively. Further brownie points were awarded by allowing customers to browse, while knowing that help was available if and when it was required.

STOCK Footwear is the definite focus here and is well represented by a variety of brands, including Lodi, Le Babe, Ash, Marco Moreo, Paul Green, Lola Cruz, Bibi Lou, Marian, Pedro Anton, Cressy and Pepe Castell.

The stock also extends to a well-edited selection of clothing, which incluces LA Rails Shirts and a stylish range of accessories. Hats, scarves and gloves by Dents stood out amongst the stock. Other highlights include fashionable scarves by Front Row Society and handbags by brands such as Modalu England and Bell & Fox. An array of contemporary jewellery, meanwhile, is beautifully displayed in a jewellery bar illuminated by industrial vintage bulbs. Stand-out items include a selection of BiBi Bijoux statement and stacking pieces, Zacasha necklaces as well as some minimalist designs by what one of the sales staff kindly advised was “a new Dutch brand, Anna Nina.”

Fabiani look to be extending their offering

to provide a a lifestyle shopping experience.

Candles, covetable linen cloths and handmade printed cards were also on sale.

Commendably, prices in the store are mostly democratic. Purse-friendly purchases include gloves, which start at a very reasonable €20. At the other end of the scale, price tags €399 are attached to the most luxurious handbags and footwear.

OVERALL Fabiani’s management have obviously spent considerable time planning the store’s look, feel and vibe. A trendy interior makes a dramatic and memorable first impression that is ably supported - and, indeed, reinforced - by some beautifully chosen stock. Factor in innovative display, prime location and an impressive sales team and all the ingredients are there for a retail success story. Well done to all! We wish them success in their new location.

TRENDS: DENIM

Kenzo

Julien

Givenchy

Phillip Lim

Boris Bidjan

Jean Genius A wholly eclectic affair, menswear SS17 offers up a mixed bag of looks and styles, not least when it comes to denimwear.

Bugatti

Camel Active

While many brands appear content to tread a safe path, others have embraced a more radical approach. Innovation was certainly order of the day at Paris Fashion week, which showcased some fresh looks from the famous – Kenzo and Givenchy - and the (yet) not so famous brands, as well as some non-conventional denim newcomers such as Adidas.The key trends discernible are strong indigo tones, some interesting indigo rainbow wash looks from Kenzo, graphic looks on denim

by Givenchy, glazy shiny looks from Philip Lim and some ‘wet looks’ in overalls and bomber jackets from Boris Bidjan.

Baileys

Gardeur

Away from the catwalk, it’s a far more conservative approach for SS16 denim. Brands such as Carl Gross, Camel Active, Bugatti, CG – Club of Gents and Digel have all adhered to the triedand-tested formula of predominantly slim-fitting and straight-leg jeans, which are offered in various shades of indigo. After all, if ain’t broke….

Roy Robson

16 | August 2016

Bruhl Skopes

Carl Gross Benvenuto Purple

Digel Mac

Hajo

Benvenuto CG-Club Of Gent

Sunwill

INTERVIEW

THE OTHER SIDE OF… Working alongside his father, John, Christian Lawlor is one half of the Dublin-based fashion agency Threadweave Limited, which handles a number of leading brands such as Casa Moda, Venti, Spanish trouser specialist Nalo and, their most recent addition, Herbie Frogg.

Christopher Bastin

Mean machine: Land Rover Defender

Family favourite: Maspalomas James Bond films are a favourite Christian Lawlor

Following a hugely successful trading year in 2015 – “it turned out to be the strongest year to date for us” – Lawlor is upbeat about business in 2016 and is confident that it will exceed last year’s performance.

Despite his success, Lawlor’s place in the Irish fashioin trade was wholly uplanned. “It was a bit of a stop gap, really,” he recalls. “I was waiting on the next recruitment phase for the Gardaí, and asked my father if I could work with him for a few months. When the Gardaí started recruiting again, I was happy doing what I was doing, so decided to stay put.”

There’s more to the dapper fashion agent than fabric swatches and collections, though.

Here, he shares some of his interests beyond the 9-5.

FAVOURITE TV SHOW? This changes all the time but I recently finished watching Fargo which was pretty good.

FAVOURITE FILM? Any Bond film, but especially the recent ones.

The New York marathon

FAVOURITE BOOK? I read a great book last year called ‘I am Pilgrim’, and haven’t found one to match it since.

FAVOURITE DESIGNER? None of the obvious ones. I like a guy called Christopher Bastin, who recently finished up as creative director at Gant rugger. He has a pretty cool style. Some of the smaller independent tailors, more so than designers, that would show at the likes of Pitti in Florence, always have something that catches your eye.

Dax restaurant

Reading matter

IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE…

FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION?

MOST RECENT PURCHASE

Obviously anywhere with guaranteed sunshine is great, but I do enjoy the crisp cold of northern Europe, too. Maspalomas in Gran Canaria is perfect for a family holiday, although we are changing this year. Most excessive was Cap Ferrat for our honeymoon – a different world!

I picked up a Hermès tie recently, as a treat.

I would like to run the NYC marathon later this year. I’ve comoleted the Dublin marathon a few times but have always really wanted to do New York. A nice thought would to be sitting down in some trendy Manhattan tavern, with an ice-cold beer and my family, waiting on an enormous burger and fries, showing my children the medal.

HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB?

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME?

Most of my time is spent with my family. We tend to do a lot of things together. In January last year, my daughter and I took up the guitar; we go to Walton’s every Saturday for lessons.

Hopefully still doing what I’m doing, but on a larger scale. I think 2016 heralds the start of a new positive cycle for Irish menswear, and I would like to think I would be at the forefront.

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT?

FAVOURITE CAR?

For a treat it would be Dax on Pembroke Street, Dublin 2.

There is something about the Land Rover Defender that I like.

August 2016 | 17

TRENDS: DENIM SS17

Gardeur

THE COLLECTABLES

Women’s denim makes a DIY statement with collectable patch appliqué, introducing a youthful dimension to shapes with customised looks.

Assorted patched styles encompass cartoons, lightning bolts, letters, cityscape graphics and beyond, while sequinned embellishment adds a touch of sparkle. Ideal for laidback city styling, casual garments are characterised by blue washes and relaxed shapes.

Making A Statement

70s CHIC DENIM

Denim is undergoing a transformation for SS17, updating shapes with a fresh range of inspirational, fashion-forward themes. Essential new season styles create directional additions to the winter wardrobe, influenced by the worlds of sport, workwear, DIY culture and beyond, according to the fashion analysts at Trendstop. The new season’s four key theme trends bring innovative developments into denim collections, revamping everything from colour, wash and surface to silhouette and details.

Yourconcept

Denim is refreshed with a statement feel, updating shapes with a directional play on surface design and texture for SS17.

Most suitable for the youth market, this trend show how casual apparel styles can be transformed into stand-out pieces for the womenswear wardrobe with this bold new denim theme trend.

FLAT FINISH

TONAL PATCHWORK

Womenswear denim inspires a Seventies mood with striking patchwork prints in tonal shades of denim blue. Clean lines add refinement to simple cuts, on show in the form of cropped culottes and flared jeans, while more casual DIY looks are formed with piecedtogether materials and raw edgings.

Double denim styling makes a modern statement with pairings of formal jackets and jeans.

18 | August 2016

TEXTURE OVERLOAD

Denim appeals to the touch with highly tactile designs, as heavily textured surfaces add interest to shapes while reinforcing them for winter weather. Highlight designs include scaled denim and raw self-textured ruffles, as well as materials with unusual puckered qualities. Garments can be worn separately or matching for an enhanced statement.

In the Flat Finish trend, SS17 denim reveals cleancut designs and anti-treatment styles. Wide-leg dungarees are layered over a tactile roll-neck knit for a winter look, as high-waist silhouettes and shirt collar details enhance the revisited retro feel.

DESIGNED IN DUBLIN. IRRESISTIBLE INTERNATIONALLY.

Come & See Our Stunning SS17 Collection E: sales@jackmurphy.ie T: +353 (0)86 819 6219

Spring/Summer 2017 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA

TIA

THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —

GODSKE SHOWING DATES S/S17 The Gallery Dusseldorf – Fashion House 2 C Second Floor – Room 202 from 19 July to 26 July 2016 Pure Exhibition Olympia 24 July to 26 July 2016 Stand: M83 and M88 London Showroom also open 23 and 24 July 2016 – Weekend of Pure Moda UK NEC Birmingham – Hall 20 Stand: U41 and U51 7 August to 9 August 2016 CIFF Copenhagen Bella Centre – B3 – 241 10 August to 14 August 2016 Dublin Showroom Weekend 14 August to 16 August 2016

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

TRENDS: LADIESWEAR SS17

That Summer Feeling There’s a distinctly casual vibe permeating the new SS17 ladies’ collections. Emphasis is on form but not at the expensive of function and comfort. The prevailing attitude is: it might look good, but it’s got to feel good, too! Distilling a bewildering array of looks and styles is never easy but the style commentators at Fashion Snoops have pinpointed four distinct womenswear trends for the season – Alive, Gen-U, Seamless Innovation and Global Commune – each with its own unique look and palette.

ALIVE

Based around home-grown influences, organic textures, and a magnified approach to looking at things such plant life and cellular structures, this visually appealing trend is about living life to the fullest. Ophelia, the women’s trend story for Alive, references a preRaphaelite painting and a Shakespeare character that lives in the rain forest.

She is intertwined with nature for a tropical feeling.

PALETTE: Green tones are key to the theme, while yellow, sunset gold and chartreuse are similarly important.

Olive provides a versatile base colour, while the reddish orange hues of vermilion function as accent colours.

Earthy browns and khaki finish off the earthy mix of hues.

FABRICS: Materials are novelty fabrics such as jacquard, reptile, leaf-like abstracts, lace, tweed-like textures (as on this dress), and chiffon.

Patterns are tropical, palm repeats, Amazonian motifs, plant inspiration, veins, and microscopic. Floral embroidery, appliqués, feathers, 3-D embellishments, cut-outs, and plunged necklines are important to the trend.

KEY ITEMS: Camisoles, oversized blouses, asymmetrical skirts with ruffle detail, culottes, wide-leg bottoms, palazzo pants, robe coats and shift dresses.

22 | August 2016

GEN-U

A younger, bolder trend, Gen-U appeals to the youth market and is all about a bold, creative, urban spirit. The women’s trend here, Candy Raver, is inspired by electronic dance music (EDM), with an electric, shiny look and an athletic, futuristic slant. Think shiny surfaces, attentiongrabbing finishes and a wealth of detailing, such as hoods, zippered fronts, pockets, and buckles.

SEAMLESS INNOVATION

The third trend, Seamless Innovation, is inspired by activewear and centred around intelligent essentials and how we wear technology. It embodies urban minimalism with a sport edge and purposeful design with a technical balance of utilitarian softness.

Details are prominent to the look and include zippers, suspenders, buckles, straps, shoulder cut-outs and elastic waistbands. The Women’s trend is called Active Duty, with a utility focus and modern, timeless silhouettes.

There are slight military references and an active (but not sporty) vibe.

GLOBAL COMMUNE

The fourth and final trend, Global Commune, captures a bohemian spirit with artisanal techniques, hippie inspiration, and a 1960s free-spirited craftmanship. The trend’s expression for women is called Commune, which is a deeper appreciation for world cultures and artisanal techniques. It applies a haberdashery approach for a unique feeling, and makes excellent use of saturated indigo tones, rumpled surfaces and tapestries, as well as fringed detail and embroidery.

PALETTE: Lemon yellow, candy apple red, deep magenta, melon pink, orchid purple, periwinkle and aqua.

FABRICS: Materials are holographic, PVC, bonded fleece, distressed jersey and technical mesh.

KEY ITEMS: Cropped silhouettes, fitted midriff T-shirts, wrap mini skirts, basketball shorts, jogger bottoms, parkas and bomber jackets.

PALETTE: Colours are minimal and include custard, orange rind aqua as accent colours. Hazy taupe, tailored grey, olive and navy provide the base tones.

FABRICS: Cotton twill, gabardine, army surplus, linen, nylon, mesh and silk jersey.

KEY ITEMS: Jumpsuits, wrap skirts, woven T-shirts, trench-style sleeveless coats with military detail, wide-leg pants, slim-silhouette midi skirts and parkas.

PALETTE: Copper, red, and persimmon with pops of dark teal and moonstone blue. Vintage indigo functions as a base colour.

FABRICS: Tweed, jacquard, handloomed knits, collage effects, crochet and leather. Patterns have Art Nouveau and Japanese influences. Medallion prints and patchwork are also prominent.

KEY ITEMS: Midi sheath dresses, pyjama pants, over-sized kimonosleeved jackets, polo sweaters and collarless jackets.

TRENDS: LADIESWEAR SS17

Rich Pickings

Camel Active

A veritable fashion feast lies in store for SS17 when it comes to ladieswear separates.

The season’s catwalk shows boasted a smorgasboard of styles, from trendy tops and elegant blazers to chic slim-cut trousers, in an extensive array of colours.

Eterna

Be Natural

Faber

Similar diversity is apparent in the respective collections from the leading labels. Workwearinspired styles such as field jackets or blazers are embraced by Camel Active, for instance, and given a distinctive character thanks to a clever use of washes, coatings and functional features.

Abbacino

MAC

Hajo

Gardeur

Be Natural

Gollehaug

Michaela Louisa Michèle

In the realm of trousers, the forthcoming SS season sees a shift in styles that it perfectly encapsulated by collections such as those by Michéle. Wide, draping shapes and shorter culottes stand out as key styles, while loose, pleated trousers with a straight leg convey a casual look.

Elsewhere, there’s a significant move towards flared styles, which evoke the carefree style of the 70s.

August 2016 | 23

TRENDS: MEN’S CASUALWEAR SS17

Cutting A Dash SS17 is a predominantly smart-casual affair, it seems. While sports luxe still has a captive market (and a lucrative one at that), the emphasis on the season’s casual collections is predominantly on style and elegance. Smart blazers are perhaps the seasonal must-have: an incredibly versatile piece that can be dressed up or down accordingly. Available in assorted styles, colours and fabrics, they’re a veritable summer essential. Elsewhere, cotton trousers make their presence felt in a host of colourful shades, providing welcome visual relief from the nice-but-bland traditional beige and cream. Casual shirts, meanwhile, appear with assorted patterns and prints, making for some looks that catch the eye for all the right reasons.

Skopes

Venti

Camel Active

Casamoda

Hajo

Carl Gross

24 | August 2016

Bugatti

Arrow

Magee

Eden Park

CG-Club Of Gents

S4

Camel Active

Skopes

TRENDS: MEN’S CASUALWEAR SS17

Olymp

Benvenuto

Pure

Bruhl

Camel Active

Eden Park

Carl Gross

Move By Digel

Marvelis

Skopes

Joules

CG-Club Of Gents

Joules

Skopes

Carl Gross

Eden Park

Benetti

Carl Gross (Black Line)

CG-Club Of Gents

August 2016 | 25

INTERVIEW

A Family Affair In 1928, Patrick Bourke founded a menswear store on the corner of the Square in Kilrush, Co. Clare. Here, the hard-working businessman sold menswear, ladieswear and children’s clothes, and the shop became a heartbeat in the centre of the town.

It continues to be, almost 90 years later. Futura speaks to the current owner of Patrick Bourke Menswear, Keelan Bourke, and discusses the store’s extraordinary heritage while also discovering some of his hopes for the years to come Keelan Bourke was destined to have a life in fashion. Being involved in Patrick Bourke Menswear - the popular family drapery business in Kilrush, Co. Clare - from an early age, he got a taste for the fashion industry that stayed with him forever.

“I have only applied for one job in my life in a bank, which I didn’t get so I have stuck to my knitting and fashion all through my life!” jokes Bourke, the third generation to oversee the business.

Helping customers was always something that satisfied the Munster man. Earlier on in his career, Bourke worked with his own father, Michael, and they sold ladieswear, menswear, childrenswear and general household items.

He even dabbled in curtain-making, which proved popular but he ended up being “a busy fool” as it was completed on a credit basis.

“I then focused on what I knew best, which was men’s fashion and I haven’t turned back since,” Bourke declares proudly.

The original shop was located in Kilrush, a small town in west Clare. Since opening in 1928 by the original Patrick Bourke, the store has expanded into two buildings next door and onto the second floor. Their flagship store of over 8,000 square feet is currently based in Ennis, and is spread over an impressive four floors, catering for young and old with everything from casual clothing to suits and wedding hire.

26 | August 2016

This flagship store was designed over ten years ago and was praised for being very modern for its time with key features including open brick walls, neon lighting and butcher-style hooks, all of which is still being admired to this day.

One of the business’ keys to success over its lifespan has been this openness to expansion. Increasing the size of the Kilrush shop, moving to Ennis and then expanding in Ennis have all hugely changed the business for the better.

“It has allowed us to become a one-stop shop for men, which at this current time, is invaluable,” Bourke reveals. “Men do not want to go to one shop to buy one item and another for something else. We have not been afraid to take risks. For example, we didn’t sell men’s shoes twelve years ago, and they are now our second-biggest product category.”

He adds: “The team has been very important to the development of the business.

Due to their long-standing commitment to Patrick Bourke Menswear, many customers have almost had personal stylists for their lifetime who remember what they wore to the last wedding or what their cousin bought two weeks ago. It’s this five-star service which has allowing the business to grow exponentially.”

Today, the store concentrates primarily on young professional males aspiring to premium

clothing and footwear. Other customers include the young, fashion-conscious males who follow current trends, as well as the older age bracket of 45+ years who gravitate towards classical, mainstream brands.

Speaking of brands, before the recession, Patrick Bourke Menswear would have been very label-focused, with the likes of Paul & Shark, Hackett or Tommy Hilfiger being a huge part of their buy. However, following the economic downturn, they listened to their customers who wanted value for money and so they focused more on Irish suppliers, such as Benetti, who could provide great quality at a very attractive price.

“In the last year or so, we have noticed a few little waves in the ocean for quality brands again, so we have recruited Ted Baker, Hugo Boss, Barbour, Barker, Farah Vintage while still maintaining a strong focus on Irish suppliers,” Bourke states.

The store’s manager, Stephen, along with Patrick, takes care of the buying.

“Stephen has a sharp eye and isn’t afraid to tell it how it is,” Bourke mentions. “In this era of men’s fashion changing faster and faster, one wrong buy can have a huge ripple effect.

“Working on the shop floor every day also lets you stay close to your customers and get to know them inside out - this lets Stephen and Patrick buy accurately.”

INTERVIEW Bourke feels that their customers would generally be price-conscious and want to ensure that they are getting value for money.

“If it comes with a brand name on it as well, they are happy. Once, they receive a high-level service with attention to the fit, length and styling they are happy. We have two on-site tailors who can alter trousers while the customer is picking out a tie, which is a real showstopper.”

When sourcing the aforementioned stock, trade shows are becoming less and less relevant for Patrick Bourke Menswear. They have discovered that the return on investment hasn’t been seen from attending far-away shows; instead, word-of-mouth has proven to be far more effective for sussing out new brands.

“We would generally only attend Moda because we can fly in and out in the one day and start early around 8am and finish around 3/4pm for the flight home. It’s this commerciality, which is being lost, which needs to be addressed. Business is too important to be spending a couple of days away from the shop,” Bourke asserts.

Despite having developed an extremely loyal customer base over the decades, the clothing emporium has, like all businesses, faced its fair share of challenges.

“The key challenge in growing our business has been the weak consumer sentiment in the market with a limited budget and ever growing choice of outlets to shop from,” Bourke reports.

Bourke also cites the recent recession as having led to an increase in competition seeing as so much of Munster and rural Ireland has suffered a high volume of emmigration, leaving a huge gap in the local population and, ultimately, fewer customers – particularly the younger market.

“We have three other local men’s independents with also a recent chain store from the North opening up as well,” Bourke says by way of describing the nearby completion. “There are also tonnes of premium shops in nearby cities, which are only a half an hour drive away” “We would also see online being huge competition for us as well. Men can now easily compare prices from four or five websites before even visiting us in store, with many customers coming in with photos of products they have found online. This has made us acutely aware of the high level of competition there is in menswear.”

But years of weathering storms has fortified Patrick Bourke Menswear’s ability to embrace any changes or difficulties that come their way.

“As with every business, we would have seen our business fall quite dramatically with the

The team at Patrick Bourke Menswear

recession, close to 50 percent. In saying that, it made us look at ourselves, see what we could do better and improve as a business. We worked with our suppliers and customers to provide a fantastic product with great service. We came up with unique offers to match consumer needs - such as a quality shirt and jumper for €89 or a full suit, shirt, tie and shoes for €199, which proved hugely successful.

“We invested in staff training and came up with creative marketing campaigns such as a ‘Postman Pat’ campaign where we paid for the postage of shop presents at Christmas going abroad to loved ones. We got them send us a photo with our bag abroad and got great engagement on social media from it.

Everything has a silver lining - you just have to be willing to find it.”

Additionally, the business has taken an extremely proactive approach to attracting new customers. They readily admit to being constantly on the look-out for new ideas and are not afraid to try things to improve business. They regularly use well-known brand ambassadors - young and old - to attract new clients. For example, the store dressed rugby star Tommy Bowe for his wedding last year and received great publicity from it as a result.

They are also currently giving the flagship shop a facelift to improve business, adding a barbershop in the young fashion floor to attract their target market in more frequently.

“A regular man may buy clothes two or three times a year but he will get a haircut once a month, so it’s that extra footfall we want to add to our business,” Bourke stresses.

They have also invested endless time and energy into developing its all-important social media presence and are active on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

“We have seen it become a key part of our business in order to drive engagement and awareness about the business,” Bourke says. “We have found that we’ve to have great content on Facebook now to get noticed rather than just throwing up anything. It needs to have some local connection whether it be our staff or customers photographed in order to grab people’s attention.

“Twitter we use for talking with our target market whether it is over a common connection of the local GAA team, rugby team or events.

This channel has been great for attracting new customers and building relationships.

“Instagram is a growing channel for us where we see great potential. It’s proving popular with the younger demographic and one we will be using more. Social media has been fantastic for a business, but it really depends on what you put in, which means more and more time needed to drive it. You must be able to draw the line as well and this has been a recent learning for us.”

Being in the business for so long, what are some of the main lessons Bourke has learnt over the decades?

“The customer always comes first.

This can’t be emphasised enough and only you know them best. Everything I do, I’m constantly asking myself well how will this impact my customers, how can I improve the journey for them. I have learned to constantly keep evolving. It’s no good to keep doing the same thing and expecting different results. We must all keep evolving or we will get left behind.

“Furthermore, I’ve learned that you can’t just open the door and expect people to come in; you need to go out there and bring them in. It’s a crowded world with people being bombarded with messages 24/7; you have to be constantly thinking up new initiatives to bring people in.

“I have found that you don’t need to reinvent the wheel, but just borrow from other industries and make it relevant. For example, the car scrappage deal for trade-ins, I applied it to overcoats and gave them a discount when they brought in their old coat. The novelty of the idea took off like wildfire.”

Looking ahead, Bourke hopes to grow the business close to double digits this year.

He believes the men’s market segment is flourishing and sees a big opportunity for independents.

“Chain stores can’t come close to the level of service we can provide and so we look forward to further improving our business.

I think we need to further develop our full lifestyle service for men, so rather than just selling clothes, they can get their haircut, buy their man-bags, accessories and generally socialise in men’s independents. If the news media can keep the stories largely positive, I think it will be a fantastic year for retail.

“I also look forward to my son, Keelan, the fourth generation of the business, joining in the near future also. That will be a proud day in the business of Patrick Bourke Menswear.”

August 2016 | 27

TRENDS: FOOTWEAR SS17

One Step Ahead What’s on the footwear horizon for SS17? Everything from elegant to exciting footwear with a little bit of everything in-between, it seems.

Renewal is very much the theme for shoe fashion this season. Classical themes are lightened up, while innovation is evident in everything from voluminous soles and more patent shine to a subtle colour and material mix.

Dèja Vu

MIDNIGHT

Giuseppe Zanotti

The colours of the night are dark, close to black, intense and rich. Think of the endlessness of the night’s sky; radiant stars provide illumination.

These are the colours of seduction and temptation.

Glamour, mystique and luxury promise sophisticated colours such as black, secretive violet, dark cardinal red, blue velvet and aubergine. Meanwhile, pale dashes of colour create a refined mood full of excitement and extreme contrasts.

Gerry Weber

EARLY DAWN The “awakening” of colour is fine and subtle. Dominating here are pastel shades and cool blue and grey-tinged neutrals, which are reminiscent of stone, like pebble, marble or granite.

COLOURS

The interplay of light and changes in colour intensity throughout the day serve as inspiration for the new season’s colour themes. Here the gloomier, dark shades of night illuminated only by stars or flashes of light give way, at dawn, to misty, indefinable nuances developing over the course of the day into radiant warm colour thanks to intense sunshine.

MODEUROP, the Fashion Pool at the DSI, sums up the scenario in three distinctive colour themes:

28 | August 2016

Legero

HIGH NOON

This theme prompts associations with the warm yellows and reds of the woodland landscape; with the earthy colours of Tuscany or the mythical “Indian Summer” of North America. Warm brown tones and nuances like honey and caramel, gold, brass and amber set the scene.

Legero

TRENDS: FOOTWEAR SS17

August 2016 | 29

TRENDS: FOOTWEAR SS17

THE MATERIALS

IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE

Footwear materials for SS17 present a very varied picture. On the one hand, we see animated surfaces and soft materials with tactile textures.

On the other, designers look to very clean, smooth materials that stand for purism and modernity. Excitement is generated by special finish effects as well as metallic, laser-cut and natural or intentionally irregular textures.

3D effects, graphic or ornamental embossing as well as bonding and quilting details give the materials an imaginative, even futuristic note.

Lizard, zebra and leopard prints will prove indispensable for the season, appearing on classy cavallino leather. Technical materials with a textured finish or iridescent shine create new accents, while luxurious fabrics such as velvet, bouclé and brocade, as well as high-tech fibres like neoprene, mesh, nylon or Cordura, are used in the mix with leather.

Jimmy Choo

Marco Tozzi

SHINE ON

Shine is back in fashion. Lacquered and brushed finishes, also in black, are seeing a big comeback and are ideal for androgynous shoe types. These also go well typical men’s patterns like Glencheck, houndstooth, shepherd’s plaid or pinstripe. Suede and nubuk remain important; leather is gaining increasing importance. Fluffy and pile finishes, meanwhile, are frequently used as decorative elements.

Mephisto

Marco Tozzi

Giuseppe Zanotti

BOHO

A touch of the romance of westerns, a bit of hippie chic – these multicultural looks thrive on a wealth of details and creative variety. Ponchos, capes, checks, fringes and denim in a mix with western boots and high boots in that trendy cognac tone look particularly casual. In the wake of the 60s revival with swingy skirts and longer dresses, boots are gaining ground with straight-cut, somewhat looser legs. New square shapes are also notable here. Boots with western lasts and fringe trims represent a cool addition to the trendy “urban trapper” style. Elsewhere, bohemian chic with a touch of glamour is brought into play by pumps, ballerinas and loafers with opulent rhinestones.

Mysterious colours, patchwork and luxurious materials such as velvet, brocade or the finest suede give the feminine styles their classy finish.

Froddo

Jana

COSY

Josef Siebel

Comfortable, soft and cosy is the key. Comfortable outfits with that cuddle factor are at the focus of this theme which favours outerwear fabrics like jersey, cashmere and animal skins. Jogging pants, boxy jumpers and wrap-style coats in soft neutral tones promise “cosy comfort” across the line. Depending on the season and occasion, white, tennis-inspired sneakers or flat boots – in extra-soft leather or real sheepskin and/or animal skin appliqués – complete the look.

Fleecy flannel linings with a check print that peek out at the top of the leg give the new styles an eye-catching detail.

30 | August 2016

UGG

www.legero.at www.legero.at

My feet’s favourite shoes.

TRENDS: FOOTWEAR SS17

Outdoor boots dispense with overly wintery details and present themselves in clean, tidy looks – ideal for the capricious Irish summer!

Legero All Rounder

Mephisto

Tamaris

SPORTY

SS17 will see the continuing rise of the Vionic sneaker. Material mixes are key when it comes to leg shaft design. Leopard skin looks, metallics and suede or nubuk are mixed tone-on-tone with a slightly lacquered touch – which gives new sneakers a glamorous note. Alongside dark shades natural tones like taupe and olive are also in demand. Gun metal, platinum and silver create accents. While the emphasis for sneakers is on comfort, it’s not at the expense of form or innovation.

Matt/gloss and 3D effects give sports shoes new radiance. With soles lightweight, flexible PU variations or soles in a PU/TPU or TPS mix are key. Trendy, darker or dirty-look soles are set to prove very popular alongside the favourite white or pale sole options.

LEGeRO has what feet love.

Lightweight. Extremely comfortable.

Breathable. GORE-TEX®.

Fashion City, Dublin 5th – 8th September 2016

Ireland Sales Representative Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. Tel. +44 (0) 7775 995 547 marcus.baker@legero.at August 2016 | 31

TRENDS: FOOTWEAR SS17

Jimmy Choo

Mephisto All Rounder

Balenciaga

Base London

CASUAL

Bugatti

Just as with the women, many impulses in men’s footwear for SS17 come from the active sports segment. Sneakers and sneaker boots or derivations of these shoe types are also likely to see success in the coming season, while jogging and running styles are also highly rated. The trend of combining different materials with each is set to continue. However, the overall look is significantly more subdued. Designed tone-on-tone in dark colours, the new sneakers offer varied combination options. Earthy boots remain key but are gradually being overtaken by fashionable low-cut shoes.

Bugatti Daniel Hechter

Roy Robson

SMART

Louis Vuitton

Slim-cut woollen trousers and cropped, figure-hugging sports jackets with classical designs like pinstripes or checks go well with classy brogues and slender monks in shiny, brushed leather. Boots are set to remain as popular as ever: lace-up ankle boots and Chelsea styles feature in supple suede with contrasting elastic inserts, decorative seams and discreet perforations. Rustic soles with a Carroarmato profile or multi-coloured platforms determine the picture underfoot.

32 | August 2016

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vionic shoe s.co.uk

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Walk. Move. Live.

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Robert Cambridge (Ireland) 07740 666109

STYLE FILE: SS17 COLLECTIONS

SUMMER LOVIN’ LADIESWEAR MICHAELA LOUISA The new collection from Michaela Louisa offers dressy day and special occasion outfits suitable for events such as weddings and races.

Dresses in assorted styles are a particular highlight, available in styles that can be dressed up or down. Dressand-jacket combinations, ideal for mother-of-the-bride, are particularly attractively priced and, like the collection in general, reveal a wealth of colourful floral prints.

Garments are offered in sizes from 8 up to 20. Many of the label’s dressed come with full stretch to optimise comfort while still being flattering to wear.

JACK MURPHY Jack Murphy SS17 ladies’ collection celebrates those who explore and embrace their look, creating a signature style and expressing their personality and individuality in their own inimitable way.

The range comprises two distinct stories, each with its own style identity.

The French Cruisewear collection is vivid and enthralling: big on dramatic colours and bold prints.

A contrasting yet complementary look is provided by Roseleen’s Powder Room Collection, which is soft and evocative and designed to celebrate timeless, ageless vintage style. Soft colour and sumptuous texture are key in this story, which is heavy on romantic pastels.

34 | August 2016

ROBELL Available from Godkse Group Ireland in Unit 5, Fashion City, Robell is made for women who are always on the hunt for jeans and trousers with a perfect fit and a fashionable design.

An extensive collection features a host of different styles, colours and prints, each made with a unique stretch-material that ensures the trousers fit, regardless of shape or size. The result is everyday luxury for women who do not want to compromise when it comes to look or comfort.

Robell trousers are available in sizes 34-52. In addition to its seasonal collections, the brand also offers a compressive NOS range.

STYLE FILE: SS17 COLLECTIONS

TIA

ETERNA

MAC

Available at Godske Group Ireland - which is based at Unit 5, Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24 - Tia is a leading fashion brand for the chic and festive woman.

Tia’s clothing appeals to women seeking a beautiful and fashionable look for a wedding, a reception or a cocktail party. Available in sizes 36-48, it is exclusive partywear for the well-dressed and stylish woman who does not want to comprise when it comes to quality and fit.

Each season showcases feminine elegance mixed with current trends, and utilises glamorous fabrics alongside feminine details and cuts for a distinctive, stylish expression.

Boasting the largest variety of blouses from the shirt soecialist, Eterna’s ladies’ SS17 collection features everything from fashionable cotton-collared shirts to feminine, flowing tunics and relaxed, over-sized silhouettes.

New stripe variations and conversational prints with caringly designed animal and lifestyle themes create more options for the ubiquitous blouse to create a fashionable, yet feminine feel-good look. Jersey blazers, knitwear and items made of lightweight down enhance the collection.

New features for the season include feel-good blouses with a unique aloe vera touch, providing smooth, super-soft wearing comfort.

The trouser specialist’s ladies’ range is a fresh, ageless collection which scores with a large measure of individuality, personality and strength of character.

It is also a highly multifaceted range with respect to silhouettes and materials as well as colour schemes.

A broad palette is used in a sophisticated way with a focus on a select few highlight colours. In the denim segment, the spectrum ranges from hyper-stretch through to bi-stretch materials. Striped denims in all variations, meanwhile, as well as jacquard denims and ecru denims in numerous shades and prints, bring fresh diversity.

Since elasticity and hyper-stretch materials are still in demand, skinnys and cropped skinnys are dominant. New, super-slim athletic models complete the picture.

August 2016 | 35

STYLE FILE: SS17 COLLECTIONS

FOOTWEAR

ALLROUNDER

JANA

On-trend, vibrant and multifunctional, the new men’s and ladies’ collection for SS17 features Allrounder’s new SOFT TOUCH shock-absorber technology that reduces impact to a minimum.

Shoes are characterised by ultra- lightweight materials, cutting-edge colour and material combinations, metallic accents and s durable, three-part sole, as well as a supremely functional interior. Premium-quality, soft-grip microfibres and replaceable soles ensure a comfortable fit right across the range.

Multi-faceted sneakers are made from extremely lightweight materials with added stretch and improved cushioning. A matching mix of leather and pearl is complemented by perforated detailing and contrasting laces, while their respective elements offer additional safety.

Jana’s SS17 collection combines up-to-date shoe fashions with a high level of wearing comfort at an attractive price-performance ratio. Premium materials, comfortable inners and especially soft and flexible soles create the ideal feel-good factor and are combined with a modern look.

The range impresses not only with new upper materials and material combinations with patent materials, but also with metallic structured embossing.

A special focus lays on the variety of heels, which range from new soles covered with bast or cork, block heels and sporty futuristic EVA outsoles.

In addition to sporty sneakers and slip-ons, feminine wingtip brogue shoes and classic shoes such as 70s square pumps and new interpreted high front pumps play an important role.

LEGERO The new SS17 collection from Legero is characterised by clearcut designs, shapes and materials, and sees the focus placed on everything that embodies lightness, flexibility and functionality.

Three ‘moods’ make up the range, each with its own particular styling. Whereas ‘Easy Everyday’ is wholly monochrome, devoid of patterns or lettering, copper/metal accents, summery mesh fabrics and knitwear take centre stage in the ‘Natural Habitat’ theme in which naturally milled, soft leathers and nubuck in light, natural colours such as nude/sand/beige are typical of the organic, flowing look.

The third theme, Botanical, embodies a new passion for strong colours. Eye-catching hues such as kiwi/electric/samba/yellow, combined with safari or floral patterns, create vibrant, chromatic impulses that enliven powdery tones or neutral basics.

36 | August 2016

MARCO TOZZI Casual flair remains the dominant theme for SS17 with Marco Tozzi’s new, luxurious looks and material combinations.

Espadrilles with intricate, multi-coloured soles are a fashion highlight for the upcoming season. From ethnic to metallics and glitter to the novel jeans look, all styles are represented. Sandals, meanwhile, feature various new wedge varieties: wedges dressed with cork, rope and new ethnic-inspired prints create a fresh and novel look.

Almost every shoes feature Feel Me soles, which provide optimum fit, flexibility and comfort. New colour combinations from rose to denim and even metallic mixes create a distinctive look, while new perforations and heat stamps round out the collection.

STYLE FILE: SS17 COLLECTIONS

VIONIC For SS17, footwear specialist Vionic is stepping up its programme in the UK and Ireland with an expanded range of podiatrist-designed fashion sandals and an innovative fitness walking range.

Style highlight Nala leads the sandal category as a chic T-Strap with a bold geometric decoration, which is likely to be the focal point of any summer look. Elsewhere, Elation 1.0 (and the men’s counterpart Ngage) are the newest biomechanical innovations. Both styles are developed with synergy in mind and feature designs whereby the insole, midsole and outsole are seamlessly integrated into a dynamic dual density unit.

SUPERFIT Superfit’s SS collection sees the launch of five new product groups, which have been created by the brand’s team of designers to incorporate the latest trends while appealing to the needs of customers.

Highlights in the collection include the new Mel, a lightweight, unisex first-step shoe with a sporty trainer style made from high-quality nubuck/nappa and PU- and TPU-insoles. Equally appealing is the Moppy Surround, a comfortable mid-cut model which has been revamped for the season with fun accents and a plain-coloured, raised PU outsole.

Young kids are similarly catered for by models such as the unisex Ulli, a sporty, ankle-high sneaker; the masculine Strider, a sporty shoe model aimed at boys; and the pretty Merida, a feminine trainer with a two-colour sole.

MEPHISTO The tone is set for Mephisto’s SS 17 collection by new and exciting material and colour combinations, premium quality leathers in on-trend colours, and super-lightweight soles.

Cork sandals in various heights add a feminine touch, while assorted sneakers and lace-up shoes in shimmering leather with two-tone styling create a sleek, modern look.

Men’s shoes reveal a predominantly sporty yet stylish aesthetic. Lightweight calf leather sneakers are a trendy yet comfortable option that are available in white, blue, light cement shades and medium to dark tones of brown.

TAMARIS Tamaris’ SS17 sees the launch of a completely new range, the ‘T-Collection’, which has Athleisure at the core of its product line and is expressed by a large variety of new colours and materials.

Elsewhere, trendy platform-runners are youthful and progressive, whilst soft cupsoles are equally contemporary yet aimed at a slightly older market.

With an emphasis on sportiness and lightness, materials such as mesh and neoprene are predominant. The brand’s renowned leather qualities are also prominent and are typically combined with feather light and flexible outsoles.

August 2016 | 37

STYLE FILE: SS17 COLLECTIONS

MENSWEAR

JACK MURPHY

ETERNA Fresh and fashionable, Eterna’s SS17 offering sees a return to prominence of the ever-popular checks and stripes, which, collectively, create the look for the season.

Houndstooth check and multi-coloured checks are joined by fine stripes and structures, which emphasise the stylishly simple and uncluttered designs. Colours are multifarious and include a wealth of fresh shades such as mint, caramel café, and lavender Shirts in The Smart Gatsby range evoke true gentlemanly qualities. Light blue, macchiato and rosé form a classic framework for a capsule collection with a wide variety of structures and Natté stripes and a print shirt in non-iron quality on high-quality Oxford.

Jack Murphy’s SS17 menswear collection is fresh and contemporary, harnessing the energy of the high seas, inviting the wearer to explore texture and colour, to push boundaries and take chances, injecting a youthful spirit and offering more diversity than ever before.

Slimmer fits, clean lines and contemporary detailing are key in this new collection where fashion and function are smartly fused.

With an attractive oceanic palette of blues, greys and greens, the collection encompasses a stunning array of signature outerwear pieces, along with tasteful knitwear, stylish shirts, smart trousers and whimsical socks – ideal to finish any outfit with a flourish.

REMUS UOMO Inspired by travel and the natural world, Remus Uomo’s SS17 collection epitomises the ever-increasing blurring of boundaries between formal and casual.

The range features a wealth of tropical and fine floral prints, which create a recurring motif across the range. Such colourful prints are particularly prominent in shirting but are also used in a more understated way through trim and detail in tailored garments.

The colour focus in on masculine shades of blue and light summer grey, as well as cool sand and stone shades.

These highlighted by contrast trims and details from the hotter end of the natural colour palette, including orange and berry tones.

In terms of fabrics, textured materials such as knitted cotton tees and new, interesting yarn structures in sweaters, take pride of place, while linenm, cotton and jersey are also significant.

38 | August 2016

SKOPES Blue is the colour, it seems, for Skopes in SS17.

Prevalent throughout the collection, it appears in assorted shades from bold royal to icy air force and perennially popular indigo.

In terms of materials, a wealth of cloth compositions - from 100 per cent wool to wool/poly mixes and polyviscose blends – offer choice at price points and in a choice of styles to target a diverse clientele.

Slim-fit trousers have been extended to incorporate more styles and colours for the season. Jackets, meanwhile, reveal a softer, more casual look overall, which is evident with buggy linings and textured weave fabrics that can be dressed up or down. Elsewhere, mix-and-match waistcoats are available in several cloths, while active waist chinos and a new range of more contemporary shower-proof, short-length trench coats complete the seasonal offer.

STYLE FILE: SS17 COLLECTIONS

DICE Available through Brandwell, the new collection from Dice features an extensive range of gent’s accessories that encompasses everything from shows and belts to wallets, bow-ties, ties, hats and underwear, as well as gift sets.

Belts are available in a selection of classic and formal styles, all of which are made in a highquality leather and feature chunky metal fittings to create a high fashion look for everyday wear.

High-quality leathers are also used in Dice footwear, which comes in assorted classical shades to ensure a wealth of choice, and in a diverse range of wallets and credit card holders. The gift range, meanwhile, includes scarves and gloves in assorted style sand colours. Again, high-end leathers are used throughout.

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Menswear 

Footwear 

Childrenswear  Tel (Landline): Mobile: Email: Web:

Cheques only to Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main St., Rathfarnham, Dublin 14. Tel 01 2836782. mail@skypublishing.ie

August 2016 | 39

INDUSTRY SERVICES

INFORMATION

CARRIER BAGS

ACCESSORIES

NEXT ISSUE September / October Christmas Stock.

Christmas Gift Packs Never out of Stock SHIRTS. Mens Underwear Ladies lingerie COPY DATE SEPTEMBER 28th 2016.

If you would like to feature in our Pre Christmas issue please call Avril Smith on 00 353 1 283 6782.

E: avril@futuramagazine.ie

Award winning jewellery for over 20 Years

Stock Service Tel: 042-937 9148 M: 087-243 4059 E: Dorothy@coronasilver.ie www.coronasilver.ie

LADIES AND CHILDREN’S

DEAD STOCK? o

Turn It Int

Boutique and Fashion Outlets Wholesalers and Distributors Call: Wally Connolly Mobile: 086 - 2414560

Underwear Sleepwear Loungewear Sportswear from stock to 6XL all year around

Contact: John Hayes Mobile: +087 2100373 john.hayes@jockey.com www.jockey.com

40 | August 2016

THOUGHT FOR THE MONTH It’s not that some people have willpower and some don’t.

It’s that some people are ready to change and others are not.”

INDUSTRY SERVICES

SCHOOLWEAR

• Complete School Uniforms • Stock Service through the year • Embroidery & Printing In House Derek Eakin Ltd Tel +353 (0) 49 555 2286 email: schoolwear@derekeakin.com web: www.hunterschoolwear.ie

2

1984 - 2016

THE IRISH SCHOOLWEAR BRAND.

STEAM PRESSERS

School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets, Softshells, Embroidery, Scarves and Ties MENS KNITWEAR. Year round full stock service.

AGENTS: SAMMY FARRAR 01 671 5199 EAST/SOUTH ALBERT SHERLOCK 087 202 7518 WEST/NW JEFF FARRAR 01 671 5199 N EAST Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare.

T:(045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie

www.1880club.com Douglas & Grahame 048 - 9332 7777

August 2016 | 49

S P R I N G S U M M E R 2017 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT O U R D U B L I N S H O W R O O M , FA S H I O N C I T Y P L E A S E C O N TA C T: N I A M H D O N N E L LY T: 07580 993642

E : TRADE@JOULES.COM