May/June 2014
www.futuramagazine.ie
ON THE RETAIL TRAIL Retailers’ views and experiences of trading line SHOWTALK Reviews and previews from the international trade show calendar ALL SYSTEMS GO How to get the most from an EPOS system FROM BRICKS TO CLICKS The rise of online shopping
contents May/June 2014
Welcome to the May/June issue of Futura. With eTail and click-and-purchase both terms firmly established in the vernacular, we thought it was nigh time to place our spotlight on the rapidly growing phenomena of online shopping. Few of us have yet to sign up to the behemoths of the online trading world, such as Amazon or eBay, while fashion portals such as net-a-porter, ASOS and boohoo.com seem to have sewn up the market at the high-end, midmarket and budget end respectively. In short, there seems to be little stopping the inexorable growth of the internet as a shopping outlet. It comes as some surprise, then, to find that Irish retailers that have embraced the online shopping phenomenon with gusto are the exception, rather than the rule. Granted, many - if not most - independent retailers admit to plans to get their online business up and running - but it is the minority that have out words into action and that can boast of an online shopping portal that can hold its own. So, why have Irish retailers been so slow to jump onboard the online shopping bandwagon? The views and opinions of six retailers across the country – which can be found in our Vox Pop feature on page 16 - go some way to shedding light on this hugely important issue. Elsewhere, Julie Monaghan’s insightful article, From Bricks to Clicks, takes a look at the rise of online shopping and explains what retailers should know before they look to trade online and how can they optimise their online sales. There’s plenty more in this issue to keep you up to speed on all that’s of interest in the fashion arena. With the show season heating up, we’ve put together an extended Showtalk section, providing reviews of the recent events as well as previews of the leading shows on the European calendar. We’ve also compiled an extensive News section, bringing you the need-to-know from the domestic and international fashion markets, as well as the second of our Brand Watch feature, which profiles some of the best labels that are worth keeping an eye on. We’re back again next month with a focus on fashions for the SS15 season. See you then!
Alexander Fitzgerald Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie
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Schoolwear
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Vox Pop: E Tailer
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All Systmes Go: EPOS
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From Bricks To Clicks 20 Shopcall: Déja Vu 22 Brand Watch 23
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FUTURA Ireland’s Fashion Business Magazine
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Futura | May/June 2014
news NEWBRIDGE SILVERWARE LAUNCHES NEW FASHION ACCESSORY LINE Newbridge Silverware has recently announced the launch of an exciting new fashion-forward jewellery collection entitled Newbridge eShe. With 80 years of heritage and craftsmanship, Newbridge Silverware created Newbridge eShe in response to fashion jewellery trends and consumer demand for statement pieces. With 51 pieces in the collection, Newbridge eShe embodies a fusion of tribal and ethnic tradition with a modern flare, while embracing many on-trend shades including blue, turquoise, mint and coral, which are offset by silver and gold tones to create a high fashion look. Neckpieces are at the heart of Newbridge eShe with a wide variety available including tribal style spike necklaces, classic torcs, Grecian goddess-inspired neck collars and stylish pendants. Cuffs are another feature of the collection and add the finishing touch
TOP AWARD FOR CLARKS
to any stylish outfit. Newbridge eShe has also embraced the flower child look with some stunning headpieces that are ideal for boho brides or festival fabulousness. Combining affordable pieces with more investment items, prices for the collection start from €20 and go up to €100 for the more elaborate and intricate items. Speaking of the launch of Newbridge eShe, Marie Brennan from Newbridge Silverware commented, “The collection has been created with a younger and fashionista style consumer in mind and it is the perfect range for updating your wardrobe quickly from season to season.” Newbridge eShe is available now online at newbridgesilverware.com/eShe, at the Newbridge Silverware Showrooms in Newbridge and from leading stockists nationwide.
Footwear specialist Clarks has won the prestigious Women’s Footwear Brand of the Year at the recent Drapers Awards. “Whilst Clarks is an iconic British brand, renowned for its heritage and craftsmanship roots, it’s brilliant to see the brand still recognised by a style-conscious consumer,” said Amy Wigg, Women’s Marketing Manager for Clarks in the UK and the Republic of Ireland. “From product development and exciting collaborations with Orla Kiely and Eley Kishimoto, through to more trend-led handwriting, the Clarks team has been driving Clarks shoes onto even more feet - and to have us ‘unanimously’ voted as winner of the Drapers is truly testament to that. “With our second collaboration with Orla Kiely launching in September this year, and a fantastic AW14 press day up our sleeves, we hope this is just the start of many more fantastic seasons to come!”
GRADUATE SHOW SHOWCASES STUDENT DESIGN TALENT Designer Martha Hand, Model Rebecca Durkan, Photograph Margaret Brown
The show takes place at The Pavilion Theatre in Dun Laoghaire, Co. Dublin on 10 May and had Irish designer and couturier Jen Kelly as the special guest, showcased the work of the Level 5 Fashion Design students alongside the contemporary collections of the graduating Level 6 Fashion Design students.
Designer Joanna Aguaird, Model Margaret O’Reardon, Photograph Margaret Brown
The annual, student-produced event, which took place at
Designer Stephanie McCormack, Model Rebecca Durkan, Photograph Margaret Brown
The well of Irish design talent shows no signs of drying if the results of Sallynoggin College of Further Education’s (SCFE) recent Graduate Fashion Design Show are anything to go by.
Many of this year’s graduating fashion design students have received offers in degree programmes across Ireland and the UK, while others are scheduled for internships and work placement within the fashion industry. The esteemed Fashion Design course in Sallynoggin College has, to date, produced many talented designers, including Alison Conneely, winner of the coveted 2013 Future Makers award, and Lorna Daly, founder of design school When Poppy Met Daisy.
Futura | May/June 2014
Designer Alice O’Reardon, Model Margaret O’Reardon, Photograph Margaret Brown
Designer Mary Onuoha, Model Jenny-Claire Walsh, Photograph Margaret Brown
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L I F E S T Y L E T R A D E S H O W F O R FA S H I O N W I T H A N E D G E
Trends & influences include:
VINTAGE RETRO ROCK N ROLL UNISEX GRAPHIC PRINTS OVERSIZED T’S SNAPBACKS & BEANIES 30’s 40’s & 50’s NU-GOTH DARK ROCKABILLY CYBER FUTURISTIC 90’S GRUNGE BONDAGE-STYLE ACCESSORIES & HARNESSES GEOMETRIC TATTOOS CLEATED SOLES & PLATFORMS RAVE-INSPIRED BRIGHTS AUTHENTIC FOOTWEAR MYSTICISM & NATURE HERITAGE PUNK +++
LIFESTYLE FASHION
PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES FOR ESTABLISHED SUB-CULTURE FASHION WHILST FORGING YOUTH-MARKET TRENDS. REGISTER TO VISIT BOTH SHOWS: To register for both shows, for show information and exhibitor lists visit: www.londonedge.com Trade Only.
EDGE BERLIN - Venue: ADAGIO, Potsdamer Platz, Marlene Dietrich Platz 1, D10785, Berlin, Germany. TUESDAY 8TH - WEDNESDAY 9TH JULY 2014 LONDON - NEW VENUE: The Business Design Centre, London, N1 SUNDAY 7TH - TUESDAY 9TH SEPTEMBER 2014
news NEW IRISH FOOTWEAR ONLINE STORE LAUNCHED PurpleTag.ie, the new Irish online shoe store for men, women and children was created by Fred Karlsson, the Swedish born and Wexford-based founder of the Irish classifieds website, DoneDeal. ie, and Stephen Graham, owner of Graham’s Shoes, who boasts almost 20 years’ experience in the shoe retail and wholesale industry.
free delivery throughout Ireland and operate an unlimited returns policy. Graham recently revealed that he was “delighted to be launching the first-of-its kind exclusively Irish online store, dedicated solely to shoes. As an Irish company, we have secured the best and most popular brands and styles at affordable prices.”
Offering a wide selection of bestselling footwear brands, including Clarks, Converse, Rieker, Dubarry, Geox, Vans, Skechers, Crocs, FitFlop, Lelli Kelly, Ruby Shoo and Bourbon by Amy Huberman, PurpleTag. ie provides customers with brands that are renowned for quality, comfort and style. The website offers 1-2 day
ZARA OWNERS DELIVERED SMALL INCREASE IN PROFITS Inditex, the Spanish owners of Zara, have revealed that they saw a small increase in profits last year despite the fact that they had invested heavily in expanding their store portfolio. In the year up to 31 January, the group reported a 1 per cent rise in net profits, which translates to €2.4bn and a 5 per cent increase in sales (€16.7bn).
The famous department store group has already invested millions of pounds into its online site with the aim of becoming one of the country’s main multi-channel retailers. The overhaul of the website will strive to give its customers a true brand experience. “This is the first major total revamp of the website,” commented Harvey Nichols CEO Joseph Wan. “We have evolved it slowly since we went transnational about six or seven years ago. After the relaunch, we hope to be one of the leading multi-channel department stores.”
Wan is hoping that online sales will account for 10 per cent of the group’s total revenues over the next few years.
BOOHOO.COM REPORTS HUGE INCREASE Etailer boohoo.com has seen an increase in earnings of over 200 per cent last year as a result of its expanding customer base. The site, aimed at young fashion-conscious
Libra Designs Limited, the popular Irish ladies’ clothing company, has recently gone into liquidation. Since its inception, Libra Designs Limited has been at the forefront of the Irish fashion industry, engaging in design, wholesale and retail. Their ever-changing fashion trends, combined with attractive prices saw the brand becoming a muchloved brand name. However, the pressures of the economy have, sadly, forced the Finglas-based company to bow out after almost 40 years in business.
Futura | May/June 2014
With Marks & Spencer recently unveiling its new magazine-style website, Harvey Nichols is following close behind with a relaunch of its own website.
Developed by the group’s in-house team, the renewed site will allow customers to make purchases via tablets, mobiles as well as PCs and offer 360 degree image photography as well as a fuller range of the products currently offered in physical Harvey Nichols stores.
This same year, Inditex invested €1.2bn not only to expand their portfolio but also to implement refurbishments. Their current global store count stands at 6,340.
LIBRA DESIGNS GOES INTO LIQUIDATION
HARVEY NICHOLS INVESTS MILLIONS OF POUNDS INTO NEW WEBSITE
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customers, did not disclose profits but made approximately €4.7 million in 2013. Last month, boohoo.com launched on the London Stock Exchange.
DÜSSELDORF 30 JULY – 1 AUGUST 2014 WWW.GDS-ONLINE.COM
German-Irish Chamber of Industry and Commerce 46 Fitzwilliam Square _ Dublin 2 Tel. +353 (1)64 24 312 _ Fax +353 (1)64 24 399 dusseldorf@german-irish.ie
www.german-irish.ie
news LIMERICK CELEBRATES IRISH FASHION WITH LSAD GRADUATE SHOW Limerick, Ireland’s City of Culture, was the proud host of the recent LSAD fashion show. The Limerick School of Art & Design, in partnership with Bord Gáis Networks, showcased 27 graduates who displayed aweinspiring designs on the night. Paris-based Irish designer Sharon Wauchob arrived in especially for the event to showcase her latest collection.
WINNER OF NEWBRIDGE SILVERWARE NCAD DESIGN AWARDS ANNOUNCED Annmarie Reinhold has been named as the winner of the 2014 Newbridge Silverware NCAD Design Awards. Taking inspiration from nature, the second year NCAD student designed a range of jewellery using the themes, Tree of Life, Evergreen and Blossom. The jewellery created from her designs includes both statement pieces as well as more delicate items. The range also features an etched design, which gives a textured finish and contrasts with the silverplated high polish finish. Now in its ninth year, the prestigious competition sees New Bridgesilverware provide a bursary for the winner, thereby helping to support the development of their creative career. As part of the judging process, jewellery pieces from each student are created at Newbridge Silverware’s Craft Facility in Co. Kildare. The winner and finalists were chosen by a team of judges from Newbridge Silverware along with Bairbre Power from the Irish Independent and announced at the Silver Restaurant in the Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre on 20 May. Many inspirational jewellery pieces from the initiative have been added to the latest Newbridge Silverware collection, with the aim of showcasing student talent in Ireland. The full collection of Newbridge Silverware NCAD jewellery can be seen at the National Museum in Collins Barracks.
WALLIS CONTINUING TO STRUGGLE IN IRISH MARKET Ladies’ fashion retailer Wallis is contuining to find trading difficult in the Irish market, according to new figures releases by the company. The fashion house, which is part of Philip Green’s Arcadia Group, made a profit of €2.2m in the yet to last August, according to accounts recently filed in the Companies Office.
While the figures are commendable, the return to black was wholly due to a noncash credit relating to a movement on lease provisions. Prior to the exceptional gain, the high street clothing chain made losses of approximately €220,000. Trading has remained tough for Wallis, with turnover down 5% to just under €14.5 million. The retailer employs 211 staff in Ireland.
The fashion show took place on 15 May at the Milk Market, providing the perfect backdrop for what was a spectacular show attended by over 500 people. Limerick City of Culture supported the event as a mark of LSAD’s contribution to the city and the fashion industry in general. LSAD is one of the top 50 fashion schools in the world with luminaries including Joanne Hynes, Una Burke and Danielle Romerill, Merle O’Grady and Niamh Lunny, Costume Designer at the Abbey Theatre. LSAD is also the only Irish college selected to show at London Graduate Week in June.
Futura | May/June 2014
Fashion victim: Wallis’ woes in the Irish market continue.
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news MEN RIVAL WOMEN IN CLOTHING SPEND A new study carried out by independent research company HPI has revealed that the gap is narrowing between the genders when it comes to clothing purchases. The research was carried out in the UK but it is safe to assume that the findings would not be significantly dissimilar in Ireland. It seems that men’s spending is only 10 per cent behind that of women with ‘mansumers’ forking out €18bn a year on clothing. What’s more, 70 per cent of those surveyed claimed to enjoy the shopping experience, the same figure that claimed to enjoy watching sport. This new breed of male shoppers appears to buy fewer but more expensive clothes and is even more brand-conscious than their female counterparts. What’s more, twothirds of men named a designer brand among their favourite clothes, compared to fewer than a quarter of women. Another recent survey - How We Shop – revealed that men, between the ages of 18 and 49 spend €1,200 a year on clothes and accessories, just €120 less than women. According to market research company Mintel, Marks & Spencers leads the menswear market in the UK, followed by Next, Primark and Debenhams. They also reported that this market grew by 4.8 per cent between 2013 and 2014. The HPI study also discovered that 76 per cent of shoppers would walk out of a store if they received bad service.
The gap is narrowing between the genders when it comes to clothing purchases.
DEBENHAMS EXTRACTS €66M DIVIDEND FROM ITS IRISH UNIT British retailer Debenhams has extracted a €66m dividend from its network of Irish stores. Debenhams has been struggling in the UK recently, reporting a 25 per cent fall in pre-tax profits for the 26 weeks up until 1 March. This translates to a total of €103.2m, down from €137.25m. However, Irish operations also had an unimpressive year in 2013, posting a loss of €8.7m, a reversal in fortunes from the previous year where they reported an €11.17m profit. This €66m dividend was paid from the Irish unit’s accumulated reserves and is believed to be the first time in recent years that the British retailer has been forced to rely on its Irish subsidiary. Debenham’s presence in Ireland is relatively recent. They bought the Roches Stores business in 2006 in a €29m takeover. It now employs 1,700 people here in 11 stores. In filings, the directors noted that the “external commercial environment” for the Irish business was “expected to remain challenging in 2014.”
READY TO WEAR SPRING / SUMMER 15 purelondon.com/register Cream Suit - Code le Vush
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Futura | April 2014
news Weston Gets Green Light to Buy Arnotts Steak “Based on the evidence and information obtained through this investigation, the authority has formed the view that the proposed transaction will not lead to a substantial lessening of competition in the State,” said the watchdog. The Weston Group has previously said it has plans to develop the 170-year-old Arnotts store and its “peripheral properties.”
Galen Weston HUNDREDS of jobs have been secured as Brown Thomas owner Galen Weston and developer Noel Smyth have secured the green light to purchase a 50per cent stake in Dublin department store Arnotts. It emerged last December that the Canadian businessman, whose family also owns upmarket British retailer Selfridges and controls Primark owner Associated British Foods, had teamed up with solicitor turned developer Noel Smyth to buy a €140m tranche of Arnotts’ loans that were being offloaded by Ulster Bank. They used a company called Fitzwilliam Finance Partners to bid for the Arnotts loans. The Competition Authority recently approved the acquisition by two separate buyers which secures more than 500 jobs at Arnotts and over 100 more at Boyers.
The other half of Arnotts is now owned by New York-based investment firm Apollo Management – which is advised here by former Bank of Ireland boss Brian Goggin.
also owns Canadian supermarket Loblaw. Mr Weston met his Irish wife, Hilary Frayne, when he moved to Dublin shortly after graduating from the University of Western Ontario, to build up the Powers supermarket chain that later traded as Quinnsworth. He married the former model in 1966 and they acquired an interest in Brown Thomas in the 1970s, eventually acquiring full ownership.
Its acquisition of €230m worth of Arnotts loans from Irish Bank Resolution Corporation (IBRC) was also given the go-ahead yesterday. There are no further details at this point on Mr Weston’s plans for Arnotts, however, he would have to secure agreement from investment firm Apollo for any development. There has been speculation that Apollo and Fitzwilliam Finance have been keen to buy each other out in order to secure full control of Arnotts. IBRC and Ulster Bank seized control of Arnotts in 2010 when loans attached to a massive planned development of property surrounding the department store were written off. Mr Weston is executive chairman of George Weston, one of North America’s largest food processing and distribution groups. The company
INCREASE IN DEMAND FOR HIGH-STATUS PRODUCTS IN IRELAND While the Central Statistics Office has revealed that there has been a decline in overall retail sales by 1.5 per cent year on year, and that the price of clothing has fallen by 3.5 per cent, there seems to an increase in demand for high-status goods in Ireland.
As Ireland still battles a recession, with the average industrial wage being €33,000, part of this increase in luxury items might be attributed to our tourists. In China, for example, the cost of such items are roughly 60 – 70 per cent more expensive than in Ireland, making stores like Brown Thomas the perfect place to purchase designer labels at a reduced price.
In Brown Thomas, the sale of Prada handbags increased by a gigantic 66 per cent, with the starting price for these luxury goods coming in at €1,000. In fact, the more expensive the item, the more appealing it is to a certain sector of consumers.
Futura | May/June 2014
With regards to domestic buyers, this clearly illustrates the marked divide between those purchasing high-status products and high-street products.
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showtalk
showtalk PREVIEWS
PANORAMA BERLIN
BUBBLE
8 – 10 JULY, BERLIN
13-14 JULY, LONDON
For the forthcoming July edition, and indeed thereafter, Panorama Berlin has a new downtown location: the ExpoCenter City. Its proximity to other venues will allow visitors to make the most of all that Berlin Fashion Week has to offer.
The S/S 15 edition of Bubble London promises to be an unmissable celebration of innovative product, new brands and British design-talent. Running from 13-14 July at the Business Design Centre in Islington, this season’s Bubble will showcase the very latest in children’s fashion, homeware and gifts. It is set to build on the success of January’s show, with new-and-improved features and dedicated areas making it easier than ever to source the freshest products.
The upcoming edition of the popular show will bring together leading international women’s and men’s collections, shoe and accessory brands across two areas. The Mall will host a diverse range of brands that will show their complete brand environment in the form of standalone flagship stores or shop-in-shop areas, while ‘The Hotel’ will provide a setting for small exclusive brands, accessories and lifestyle products.
Bubble has always prided itself in being a launch pad for emerging talent, and the July edition will see scores of new brands assemble. They will be joined by numerous returning exhibitors including Raspberry Plum, Molo Kids, Bob and Blossom, Poppy, Holly & Beau and Lucypeachslice.
For the July event – which marks the start of the organisers’ integration of social media platforms such as Facebook, Twitter, youTube, Pinterest, Instagram, Google+ and LinkedIn - Panorama Berlin will also launch a new segment called Now - an area specifically geared towards flash order collections. What is currently in demand; what still offers potential; where is urgent catching-up needed? These are some of the questions that this new concept will be dedicated to addressing.
Home to some of the freshest labels, Nest will also return with a new layout this season. Niche area Bubble G.U.M. is set to present the most unique and innovative products, enabling exciting new labels to showcase their collections in a dedicated area. The Bright Company and Sarah Elwick Knitwear, meanwhile, will make their Bubble G.U.M. debut this July, alongside returning brand Bejaks.
Panorama Berlin’s popular outdoor Marketplace will also provide a variety of culinary offerings and a colourful entertainment program where visitors will get a chance to interact, relax, and recharge.
Elsewhere, Bubble Homegrown will be making a welcome return to the show. A platform for top British labels, it was launched as part of Bubble’s drive to support the UK manufacturing industry.
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Futura | May/June 2014
showtalk
SCOOP
labels 365 Italy, Alto Milano, Danilo and Vive La Difference, presented by the Studio Ventitre agency. Selected Polish and Turkish designers, such as Yasemi Özeni, will be also represented here. To date, in excess of 80 brands have registered.
13–15 JULY, LONDON
Attending for the first time is agency d-tails with its labels Duvetica, Daks and Borrelli. Other new exhibitors include Ama De Luxe, Laidback London, Ikkii Winterboots, Des Petits Hauts, Bob, 2/W 2/M, 000/ Out Of Order, Wool & Co., Etiqueta Negra, Hugenberg, Nui Fashion, Atos Lombardini and Sternensee. The Botschaft venue on Cecilienallee remains the centrepiece of Gallery Düsseldorf and is already posting a high level of bookings.
GDS 30 JULY – 1 AUGUST, DÜSSELDORF
Boutique women’s and menswear tradeshow Scoop returns this summer with its usual calibre of contemporary labels showcasing their S/S 15 collections against a backdrop of vanguard art. Bringing together over 400 fashion and lifestyle collections across two stunning venues – the Saatchi Gallery in the heart of Chelsea and Phillips in nearby Victoria - Scoop has become the destination for buyers and critics alike to source emerging and established talent from the UK and worldwide. This season, Scoop will welcome a host of new labels into its fold, including Los Angeles-based custom tailor Sanetti, Rosso 35, a modern, Italian womenswear label, and Portuguese fashion labels and designers Teresa Abrunhosa, Carla Pontes and Daniela Barros. Scoop also has a wide range of premium labels that accentuate a more informal attitude towards fashion while remaining stylish, with exciting and edgy Muubaa and Toby Mott just two who are listed on the impressive roster.
30 July 2014 will see GDS enter a new era, with significantly earlier dates and an all-new, one-of-a-kind trade fair concept. To make orientation easier for attendees, the three themed worlds at GDS – Highstreet, Pop Up and Studio – have been given distinct colour coding with characteristic imagery as sub-brands.
As usual, there will be no shortage of spectacular accessories and footwear at the forthcoming edition of the show, with Kirsten Goss’ hand-manufactured jewellery and Beirut-based Madame Reve’s striking accessories collection both set to be exhibited.
The collections featured in the ‘Highstreet – The Modern Pulse’ world cover a wide spectrum that ranges from modern to sporty and all the way to classic. Companies such as Ara, Buffalo, Camel, Clarks, Donna Carolina, Gabor, Kangaroos, Manas, Mephisto, Lloyd, Skechers, s.Oliver, Unisa, Vagabond and Wortmann have already announced their participation here.
Footwear brands confirmed for the July event include Hudson’s contemporary, classic and original shoes for men and women, handmade leather experts La Paire and cult shoe brand Melissa, who will be showcasing exclusive designs and collaborations with Vivienne Westwood, J Maskrey, Campana and Karl Lagerfield.
Elsewhere, Birkenstock, Finn Comfort, Ganter and Sioux will be among the labels in the comfort sector, while new exhibitors in Highstreet include labels such as Gant, Lacoste, Marc O’Polo, Napapijri, Giesswein, and Viking. It is also encouraging that Brown Shoe Company will premier at GDS with their Naturalizer brand.
GALLERY
‘Pop-Up – The Urban Groove’ is set to be a lively marketplace for trendy streetwear. This July, manufacturers such as AS98, Dr. Martens, G-Star, El Naturalista, Fly London Maruti, Panama Jack, Pepe Jeans Footwear, and Replay will present their new collections here.
25–28 JULY, DÜSSELDORF The forthcoming Gallery Düsseldorf, which runs from 25–28 July, will boast an ever-expanding exhibitor portfolio.
‘Studio – The Premium Note’ is the platform for premium labels such as Ash, United Nude, Attilio Giusti, Chie Mihara, Dinkelacker, Franceschetti, Jaime Mascaro and La Martina. Newcomers will include Kennel & Schmenger, Barbour Footwear and Patricia Pepe.
There will be a focus on international fashion with presence of Italian
Along with GDS’s new appearance in July 2014, a new re-worked trade fair concept will be launched: tag it! by GDS. This concept targets international manufacturers and resellers of shoes and accessories with a focus on private label production. Numerous exhibitors such as Achten Fashion, Edelfashion, Intermedium, Idana, Kidderminster, Lenci Calzature, Poelman, Theo Henkelmann and Trend Design have already registered. Created especially for all shoe-loving consumers, the Festival of Shoes and Accessories, entitled Out of the Box, begins on the third trade fair day. To match the new format of this prolific event, its website, too, has been given a facelift. GDS Online will deliver a continuous flow of interesting articles for exhibitors, visitors and journalists in the lead up to the event.
Futura | May/June 2014
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Heart of fashion
Woman
Lingerie & Swimwear
Accessories
MODA 10-12 August 2014 NEC Birmingham Register online at moda-uk.co.uk
Gent
Footwear
showtalk
PURE LONDON
In addition to a wonderfully comprehensive fashion offering, the July edition will boast a full programme of seminars, debates and catwalks to further enhance the visitor experience. The latest trends for Spring/ Summer 2015, meanwhile, will be made available to trade visitors in Halls 17-20 of the NEC Birmingham.
3-5 August, London Pure London, the premium event for progressive fashion buyers, has revealed the plans for its re-edited footwear and accessories section confirming a stellar line-up of brands, ahead of the August edition of the show.
Fresh for the August edition of the show, Moda is fully embracing e-commerce with the introduction of a new seminar and feature area dedicated to online retail. The E-Zone Live is set to create a new inspiration hub for e-commerce, combining the best products and services with practical business advice for the benefit of all Moda’s visitors. A hand-picked selection of industry experts will contribute to a full programme of free seminars and workshops which will take place in the stand-out area throughout the three day show. Topics including effective web design for fashion retail, online payment solutions, product photography, logistics and fulfillment, returns and omni-chanel EPOS systems will be among the core discussion points in this area. In addition to offering advice for retailers looking to improve their existing online businesses or those making their first steps into online, the E-Zone Live will also bring together the market leaders for e-commerce technologies, with industry leaders such as Visual Soft and Retail IT already signed up to exhibit on stands around the seminar theatre.
KLEINE FABRIEK
The three-day event, which will take place at London Olympia from 3-5 August, will showcase forward-order SS15 and short-order AW14 collections across contemporary womenswear, young fashion, footwear and accessories.
6–7 JULY, AMSTERDAM
Building on the changes unveiled at the February show in its ready-to-wear sections, the August show will see Pure London will redefine its footwear and accessories proposition to enhance the identities of both areas. As a result, brands will enjoy a brighter space and the changes will improve visitor experience bringing more buyers to the section. The proposed changes have been well-received by the industry with a stellar line-up of footwear and accessories brands already confirmed for the August show, including many Pure London favourites, a whole host of new names, more international collections and some other brands returning to Pure London after several seasons’ absence. Further details inline at purelondon.com
MODA 10-12 August , Birmingham At the heart of the UK’s fashion trade scene, Moda has become a destination for brands and buyers the world over in pursuit of mainstream fashion across every sector.
The summer edition of Kleine Fabriek is set to make a big splash with brandnew areas, platforms and stands, as well as a new location at Amsterdam RAI.
Moda welcomes more than 1,450 brands and 12,000 visitors every season, bringing together the latest accessories, footwear, lingerie & swimwear, menswear and womenswear collections.
The new layout will be divided into several exciting sections. Block is the area specialising in the most dynamic children’s and teen’s fashion brands, both casual and denim. Brands include Replay, Gsus, Tumbl ‘n Dry, Molo, Retour and Geisha. Fame is Kleine Fabriek’s savviest area for the high-end labels such as IKKS, Oilily, Cakewalk, Moodstreet, Bomba, Fun&Fun, z8, Eleven Paris, American Outfitters, Unisa and Småfolk. Object will simply be continuing in the same familiar vane – an area for everything apart from what’s in the wardrobe. Brands here such as Souza, Happy Horse, Jellycat, Koeka and Anne-Claire Petit Accessoires will be all on show. Within these areas, Kleine Fabriek has also created special platforms, such as Game On, that encompasses junior sports apparel and footwear with Converse and Majestic having already signed up, while Peek is catered towards small collections like Donsje, Yporque, House of Jamie, Jan van Trier and Emile et Ida.
Futura | May/June 2014
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showtalk
LONDONEDGE
MOMAD METROPOLIS
7-9 September, 2014 London
12 - 14 SEPTEMBER, MADRID, SPAIN
The forthcoming edition of Momad Metropolis will take place within the largest showcase for fashion and trends in Southern Europe. In terms of dates and venues, Momad Metropolis will coincide with MercedesBenz Fashion Week Madrid and the trade shows, Bisutex, Intergift and MadridJoya, providing visitors with a first-hand insight into the latest new ideas in clothing, footwear, accessories, jewellery and decorative items In total, these trade events, which are organised by IFEMA, will bring together some 1,800 brands and host approximately 40 fashion shows. 110,000 visitors from 70 different countries are also expected.
Launched at the turn of the millennium by Carole Hunter and Sandra Phillipson, London Edge is one of the longest serving fashion trade shows on the circuit.
For the September edition, Momad Metropolis will focus on sections aimed at children, men, sports, swimwear and lingerie, as well as eco fashions.
Dedicated to its core market of creative and lifestyle-orientated brands and apparel, the show’s USP its ability to represent everyone from fresh young designers to established global brands.
Momad Metropolis will take place in Halls 2, 6, 12 and 14 at Feria de Madrid. Hall 2 will present the Momad Showrooms; Hall 6 will bring together the immediate delivery fashion firms as well as youthful urban fashion; Hall 12 will host medium-range and high-end footwear, bag and accessory firms, and Hall 14 will feature clothing, swimwear and lingerie.
As it gears up for its 30th show – which will take place over three days from 7-9 September at the Business Design Centre in London, N1 – LondonEdge will be welcoming buyers and visitors from all corners of the globe. In a revamp to the previous format, the new look LondonEdge will boast an all-encompassing feel designed to represent each and every brand and designer that is exhibiting.
Momad will also organise a number of events and activities such as various exhibitions organised in collaboration with the Footwear Museum of Elda and a selection of design and fashion schools. On top of this, there will be a multitude of meetings arranged between exhibitors and foreign buyers.
Further details online at londonedge.com
REVIEWS NEW LOOK PURE LONDON RECEIVES WIDESPREAD ACCLAIM Pure London, which ran at the Olympia in Kensington in February, has received widespread praise for its revamped new look. The many changes at Pure – which basted excellent international representation, with buyers from more than 75 countries, including Japan, Australia, Russia, France, Italy and Ireland - included a re-editing of the ready-to-wear offering into three distinct sections: Agenda, Allure and Aspire. On top of this, the catwalk was relocated, while a collaboration with UK Trade & Investment saw the creation of a specific section for emerging British brands. A host of premium brands were exclusively on show such as Stella Nova, Gestuz, Cuir Royal, D.Efect, Nue 19.04, Lemon Jelly, Sam Ubhi, Somewhere London, Paul & Joe Sister, George, Gina & Lucy and Makki. Pure London also showcased a stellar selection of up-and-coming brands including Humanoid, Kira Plastinina, Te De Caracter, Mandkhai, Begga Design, Thot Jewels, Stella Nova and more.
PREMIÈRE VISION SPEAKS OUT ON RESPONSIBLE CREATION AT COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT On 24 April, the third edition of the world’s largest and most important sustainable fashion event took place in Denmark. The Copenhagen Fashion Summit was the place where leading voices in the world of fashion, luxury, business and enterprise met to discuss the fashion industry’s social and environmental responsibility and solutions. Première Vision was chosen to represent the textile industry during the summit. Here, Chantal Malingrey, marketing and development director at Première Vision, joined a discussion panel alongside other experts from luxury and commercial fashion, NGOs and media to debate how changes and moves can be made in the industry towards more sustainability and responsibility, starting with fabrics and materials. This discussion was moderated by Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Editor at the Financial Times. Other panellists included Marco Lucietti, Global Marketing Director at ISKOTM, Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder at C.L.A.S.S. as well as Catarina Midby, Head of Sustainable Fashion at H&M.
The next edition of Pure London will take place from 3–5 August 2014.
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Futura | May/June 2014
schoolwear
Schoolwear
Parents across Ireland have overwhelmingly endorsed the retention of school uniforms in schools across the country, with only two of the country’s 730 schools confirmed as having requested any significant changes to their uniform policy. The result comes after a campaign by the newly formed Irish Schoolwear Association (ISWA), which was created in response to the decision by the Department of Education and Skills to survey parents in response to perceived concerns about the cost of uniforms. The news comes as a source of much relief to the domestic schoolwear market, which remains highly competitive but where the cream, including the following three suppliers, rises to the top.
Deer Park
1880 CLUB
Established in 1984, Kildare-based Deer Park has been designing and creating school jumpers for the past 30 years. Its knitwear range, which offers five qualities and a staggering choice of colours has the proud claim of being the largest in Ireland. In addition to its popular core range, Deer Park provides retailers with a diverse selection of quality uniform products, such as shirts, blouses, jackets and fleeces, as well as a full embroidery design service. The company has expanded its schoolwear range with the addition of school ties and soft-shell jackets. The former are available from stock in all standard colours within three styles; specialised striped and school logo ties can be made to order. The company’s fashionable soft-shell jackets, meanwhile, which provide a lighter-wearing option to the traditional school jacket, have proved to be a huge success.
1880 CLUB continues to build on its proud heritage with its most comprehensive range of schoolwear to date. The emphasis is on quality, with each garment being created for the classroom yet being sufficiently hard-wearing and durable to cope with the tumbles of the playground. Component pieces range from high-performance school blazers, such as the ‘Visimax’ high visibility ‘Visimax’, to standard articles including trousers, skirts, shirts, blouses, ties and scarves.
According to Paul Mahon, Development Manager at Deer Park, “while it has been a very difficult six months with the huge uncertainly the Minister caused to the sector, Deer Park feel their niche within the section for providing only the highest quality Irish-made uniforms will hopefully mean they have many more birthdays to come.”
A new addition to the 1880 Club collection comes via a range of Definition Heritage 100% acrylic knitwear, which builds on the reputation of the former Chantry range.
He adds: :If retailers are to survive the competition from the foreign chain stores with imported generic items they must offer parents uniforms that last and wear well, and indeed with the benefit of supporting Irish Employment, their choice can only be Deer Park.” Futura | May/June 2014
Additionally, 1880 CLUB continues to offer a made-to-order service, with special fabrication and colours. The brand also produces embroidered crests, special trims and braids, each with a fast, efficient stock service on core lines. F14
SOLO After 14 years, The Outdoor Concept Company Ltd. T/A Solo Schoolwear, remains as the only designer/producer of functional, quality and value school jackets in Ireland. Ranging in style from waterproof to breathable and windproof, Solo jackets are currently worn by over 220 Irish secondary schools and many have been supplied every year since 2002. Keenly priced, the various designs boast a high-quality finish and a wealth of detail such as a warm fleece/fur backing, stretch comfort fits, road safety reflectors and assorted pockets. Additional features include custom detail and suitability for machine wash. Apart from the original designer of uniform co-ordinated jackets, Solo boasts another first with its incredibly successful ‘Cloud’ Softshell jacket, which was launched in 2013.
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Futura Futura | May/June | April 2014
vox pop
Retailers on the eTail Trail In their Irish eCommerce Report 2013, eTail Excellence Ireland and eCommerce Europe reported that an estimated 75 per cent of Irish retailers had an online presence in 2013, up from 50 per cent in 2012, which contributes to Ireland being one of the fastest growing eCommerce markets in Europe. Futura spoke to various ladies and menswear stores throughout the country and was surprised to find out that, despite these impressive statistics, there are still some Irish retailers who are wary of expanding online.
HANLEY & CO., GALWAY, CO. GALWAY JAMES LYDON
Are you strictly a retailer or also an e-tailer? We are both. We have an online store where customers can purchase our clothes, and this is growing steadily, although around 90% of our business comes from in store.
FRECKLES, LONGFORD, CO. LONGFORD GERALDINE KIRWAN
Are you strictly a retailer or also an e-tailer? For the most part, we are a retailer although, thanks to our website, we have many customers throughout the country ordering
INFINITIF, CAVAN, CO. CAVAN ANNE BRESLIN
Are you strictly a retailer or also an e-tailer? We are very much a retailer. I get my job satisfaction from being on the floor, working directly with customers – getting ‘down and dirty’, so to speak!
online, which we would then send out to What social media platforms do you use to promote your business?
them.
What social media platforms do you use to promote your business?
As well as our online store and website, we
What social media platforms do you use to
are on Twitter, Facebook and Pinterest.
promote your business? Aside from our website, we have a Facebook
Are you a LinkedIn member?
page, which is slowly coming together.
As it stands, we have a Facebook page only. Are you a LinkedIn member? No, I’m not.
Yes, we are. Are you a LinkedIn member? Have you considered using a ‘Click and Collect’ service for your customers? We already have a facility on our online store where customers can collect their purchases in store.
I am, yes.
Have you considered using a ‘Click and Collect’ service for your customers?
Have you considered using a ‘Click and Collect’ service for your customers? Possibly – it’s definitely something I’ll look into in the future. I’ll cover every possibility and assess if it will be beneficial for the business.
At the moment, it’s not something that I’ve What are you plans to grow your business for the next 12 months?
explored but I might look into it down the line.
We are continuing to develop our online presence, in particular, promoting our online
What are you plans to grow your business for
store. Being active online is not something
the next 12 months?
you can do half-heartedly; you have to pursue it with guns blazing. We’re delighted with the results so far and anticipate that
As well as developing our Facebook page, we have also invested in advertising. These
they will only improve as time goes on. After
adverts will be seen on digital boards in
all, it’s the direction businesses have to go if
both Longford and another county. We’re
they want to stay afloat.
currently finalising the artwork.
Futura | May/June 2014
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What are you plans to grow your business for the next 12 months? Something that is suggested to me time and time again is a website, although no one has convinced me just yet that it will be advantageous for Infintif. The thing with us is that we only stock around six of each item. Essentially, a website is a separate business that needs a lot of investment so I’ll have to be sure that it would pay for itself. But, because of the nature of the stock we carry, I’m not sure it would.
HANGER BOUTIQUE, WATEFORD, CO.WATERFORD PATRICIA CROTTY
Are you strictly a retailer or also an e-tailer? No, we don’t sell online at the moment, but
LUNA BELLA, MALLOW, CO. CORK DEIRDRE DUFFY
Are you strictly a retailer or also an e-tailer? Luna Bella is currently only a retailer.
it’s something that we might look at in the future, as it definitely seems to be the way
What social media platforms do you use to
forward for retailers.
promote your business? We have an extremely detailed website as
What social media platforms do you use to
well as a very popular Facebook page.
promote your business? We have just started a Facebook page, although we’re only finding our feet with it. We have noticed that as soon as we upload an image the response is very great.
Are you a LinkedIn member? No, we’re not.
KEARNS & CUDDY MENSWEAR, PORTLAOISE, CO. LAOIS PAT KEARNS
Are you a LinkedIn member? I am but I must confess I am not very active on the site.
Have you considered using a ‘Click and Collect’ service for your customers? No, it’s not something we have considered
Are you strictly a retailer or also an e-tailer? We are a traditional retailer and intend on remaining so.
What social media platforms do you use to promote your business? We don’t have any online presence. Our business grew when there wasn’t any call for it and, as a result, we don’t feel the need to change that.
Are you a LinkedIn member? No, we’re not.
just yet. Have you considered using a ‘Click and Collect’ service for your customers? As I say, we will definitely explore options down the line, but, at present, we don’t provide this service.
What are you plans to grow your business for the next 12 months? We don’t have any plans afoot at the moment.
What are you plans to grow your business for
Have you considered using a ‘Click and Collect’ service for your customers? No, it’s not something that we’re likely to consider – it wouldn’t be something that would appeal to the profile of our customers who would be older and prefer to do their purchases in store.
the next 12 months? We have lots of plans in store. We are bringing in someone professional who has
What are you plans to grow your business for the next 12 months?
the technical expertise needed to develop our online presence, starting with our
Never say never, but it’s highly unlikely that we will expand our business online.
Facebook page. It’s definitely the way to go.
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Futura | May/June 2014
feature
EPOS Electronic Point of Sale (EPOS) solutions – which enable an efficient recording of the sale of goods or services to the customer - have grown in popularity with the majority of successful fashion retailers embracing this technology to help manage and grow their businesses. Investing in such systems can bring about a host of benefits, including less administration, greater control, information at the touch of a button and much more. In this edition, we speak to Enda Harte, an expert in this field who explains how retailers can get the most from their systems. In order to get the most from your EPOS system, you need to understand both the information in the reports and the terminology. Two of the most basic terms to understand when analysing data or reading reports are Mark Up and Margin.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MARGIN AND MARK UP Margin Amount is (Selling Price – Vat) – Cost Price Example: Selling Price €2.46
Vat
Cost
Margin Amount
-€0.46
-€1.20
= €0.80
Margin % is the margin amount as a percent of the Selling Price less VAT
When calculating selling prices, you always use the cost price excluding VAT your EPOS solution has a large selection of reports all designed to help you make informed decisions about your business. While there may be plenty of reports, they will all be grouped into logical sections. Some of the main sections could include, for instance, Sales, Stock, Staff, Cash Drawer, Management, etc. It is up to you, the retailer, to decide what reports to run, how often you want to run them and why you want to run them. I always recommend that a user should run and preview every report at least once. This gives you a chance to familiarise yourself with all the reports possible on your system. Seeing your own data, rather than the sample data presented in training documentation is always more relevant and immediately makes sense to you. Users generally analyse information at the top level and then work their way down by drilling into the information. This could mean looking at sales by department to see how each department is performing and then looking into each sub-department. Within each sub-department, you can then look at information at item level to see how particular brands or styles are performing.
WHAT REPORTS DO I NEED TO LOOK AT? Cash Drawer If you do not have reporting procedures in place, there’s no better time to start than today. You should start with a report based on balancing your cash drawer. It is critical that the cash drawer balances daily and that staff are aware that all discrepancies are thoroughly investigated.
Example: Margin % = Margin Amount x 100
€0.80 x 100 =Margin %
€2.46 - €0.46 = 40%
Selling Price – Vat
Mark-up % is the margin amount as a percentage of the Cost Price
Sales Look at your overall sales by department for the whole business. Which sections are performing well? Which ones have gained and lost compared to last week/month or this time last year? You should note the percentage turnover each department or brand is responsible for. This will inform you of which departments / brands to develop further and perhaps discontinue brands that aren’t working for you.
Example: Mark-up% = Margin Amount x 100
€0.80 x 100= Mark-up %
Cost Price
€1.20 = 67%
E.g 33.33% Mark Up = 25% Margin 50% Mark Up = 33.33% Margin Most clothing retailers use a different scale to percentages. The common mark-ups would be anything from 2.0 upwards. In the table below, you will see the various margins for an item that costs €10 ex. VAT.
Mark-up Selling Price
2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0
€20 €21 €22 €23 €24 €25.00 €26.00 €27.00 €28.00 €29.00 €30.00
Futura | May/June 2014
Margin % Margin % (23% Vat) (0% Vat) 38.5% 41.43% 44.09% 46.52% 48.75% 50.8% 52.69% 54.44% 56.07% 57.59% 59.00%
50.00% 52.38% 54.55% 56.52% 58.33% 60.00% 61.54% 62.96% 64.29% 65.52% 66.67%
Ordering Next are the ordering reports (which are based on past sales). It is important to monitor your sell through rate on a regular basis. This is achieved by expressing the quantity sold by the amount delivered. If, for example, you receive 50 pieces of a new style and sell 25 of them, your sell through rate is 50%. If you have achieved this rate in a relatively short period of time, it would indicate that the style is popular and you may need to reorder within season. If you have achieved 50% sell through and you are near the end of the season, it is important to reduce the selling price with the aim of clearing all stock before the season ends.
Staff Performance While staff are trained to sell and upsell where possible, it is important to motivate and reward them. Discover who your ‘star sellers’ are by identifying this information in a sales by staff report. Once you know who the top performers are, find out what makes them so good at what they do. Are there any techniques that other staff can learn from them? Other indicators to monitor are average customer spend and average items per transaction. An easy way to motivate staff could be a monthly competition to see who sells the most or who sells the most of a particular product or department. Some retailers set sales targets for staff to achieve and reward those who achieve or exceed the figures. For example, if a customer is purchasing a pair of shoes, could your staff suggest a handbag as the perfect accompaniment?
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Before you attend a trade show, take a look in your stock room. How much stock have you left over from last season? Look at the type, colour and style of the product. Why did it not perform well? Was it at an incorrect price point? Was the quality of the product not acceptable to your clients? Is this something your customers do not want? Make sure to take a record of this stock with you as a reminder that you do not make this mistake again.
USEFUL REPORTS There are a number of reports that will help you to purchase smarter. However, while they may all essentially be ‘Sales Reports’, it is how they are analysed and how you use this information that will make the difference.
SALES BY SUPPLIER When attending a trade show, it is good practice to print your sales by supplier reports. This will highlight the top products from that supplier; the quantities sold by item; the margin achieved by item and in turn give you an idea of what ‘works’ in your shop. Again, look at the sales less discount figure for each supplier and calculate what percentage of overall sales that supplier is responsible for. This will then give you an idea of how much of your budget to spend with this supplier.
Rostering Analyse your sales by day and by hour. Discover what your busiest days/ times are and roster accordingly. This may mean changing staff days off during the week or rescheduling breaks and lunch times around your peak times. This will ensure you have enough staff to provide your customers with the best possible service.
Some retailers take it a step further and create a simple spreadsheet using their budget amount to calculate these figures for them. If you buy more than one brand from a certain supplier, it is important that you divide up your budget for that supplier by brand. See example below.
Budget:
While you may feel sometimes that you are too busy to sift through EPOS reports, it is important to monitor the business day to day in order to grow it. Perhaps you could delegate the printing and analysis of the everyday reports to a trusted staff member who can then quickly alert you to anything you may need to deal with. Using the available EPOS reports to their fullest will help you achieve a maximum return on your investment.
€50,000
Supplier % of Total Sales Recommended Spend (€50,000 x % of Total Sales) Supplier 1
15
€7,500
Supplier 2
5
€2,500
Supplier 3
25
€12,500
Supplier 4
40
€20,000
Supplier 5
15
€7,500
100%
€50,000
Total
Enda Harte is Sales & Marketing Manager with JustScan Ltd who develop and sell their own Epos solution, ModaPos. ModaPos has been tailored to the specific needs of the Irish Fashion sector. For more information or a free consultation, contact Enda on 071-9130488 or visit www.justscan.ie.
DISCOUNTS It is very important when analysing reports that you also look at the discounts given per item. While you may have sold all of a particular range, did it really perform well? Were these items sold at full price or did they eventually sell out at a substantial discount? If you wish to clear old stock, remember: 2 for 1 or Buy 1 Get 1 Free is always a better deal for you than 50% off, because you will clear the stock much quicker while receiving the same margin amount. This will save you having to store away stock that didn’t sell.
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Futura | May/June 2014
online shopping
From Bricks to Clicks
The rise of online shopping has proved to be one of most dramatic retail phenomena in recent years, but how strong has its impact been in Ireland, what should retailers know before they look to trade online and how can they optimise their online sales, asks Julie Monahan.
Depending on the type of shopper you
Competitors’ behaviour
are, you may sooner reach for your
Are competitors selling online on their own website and, if so, are their sales increasing as a result? Who is successful online within the industry, and why is their e-commerce model a success?
computer mouse instead of your car keys or coat when you decide it’s time for some retail therapy. With this in mind, it is crucial for Irish retailers to understand the shopping behaviours of their target audience - from this understanding, retailers can then determine whether there is a demand for an online store to accommodate the needs of their target audience.
A SLOW TRANSITION A fashion retailer such as a shoe shop does not merely transform from bricks and mortar to clicks and delivery overnight. A number of factors must be taken in to consideration when deciding whether investing in an online store is the right business decision for a retailer.
Customer behaviour Is your target audience active online and do they feel safe purchasing online? The general online trends of consumers within the country you are operating in should also be taken into account in order to give an indication of current online shopping trends and activity.
Futura | May/June 2014
Budget Can the business afford a new website and the additional e-commerce add-ons which are necessary, such as a payment systems and delivery systems? The possible Return on Investment must also be taken into account when accessing the budget for a new website because accessing what you financially get out of the new website is just as important as assessing what you put in, financially.
Business Objectives What does the business want to achieve from having an e-commerce website? Do they want to increase sales at a local, national or international level?
CUSTOMERS’ INTENTS It is important for shoe retailers to understand the intent of an Irish consumer when they are online. According to a UPC report, eight in every ten Irish internet users go online to research products they are interested in buying, they then go buy these products locally in Irish
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shops. This also works the opposite way with six in every ten Irish internet users visiting their local shops to research products they are interested in and then proceeding to purchase the product online. Irish consumers are also incorporating their online shopping into their daily routine by shopping on the go. According to Conmy (2012), smartphones have transformed the way in which Irish consumers shop with 82% having researched a product on their mobile device and 36% of smartphone users have made a purchase on their mobile. And this is not specific to one gender - in Ireland there is an almost equal number of men (76%) and women (78%) accessing the internet on a mobile device. Therefore if a retailer wants to be successful online, it is imperative that their website is responsive so that their target audience can shop while on the move. Smartphones have transformed the way in which Irish consumers shop with 82% having researched a product on their mobile device.
online shopping E-commerce has created borderless markets for fashion retailers allowing them to operate within a local, national and international market. All retailers want the same results when it comes to their new e-commerce website and that is increased sales. Although there is no full proof formula for increased sales online, it is vital to consider all of the previously discussed factors of consumers behaviours, competitors’ behaviour, budget and business objectives when making decisions regarding the new site.
36% of smartphone users have made a purchase on their mobile.
A RESOURCE FOR INFORMATION AND A MEANS TO PURCHASE PRODUCTS It is clear that Irish consumers are using online stores as both a resource for information and a means to buy products. Irish consumers are also using online stores as a way to find competitive prices.
A recent study by Wolfgang Digital analysed the online revenue of 20 Irish e-commerce websites over a two year period from 2012-2013. The industries included in the study were retail, travel and charity. The study found that the websites generated over €70 million in revenue in 2013; this represents a 1.8% of the estimated €4 billion e-commerce market in Ireland. Furthermore, the study proved that retail e-commerce in Ireland is growing at a rapid rate - approximately 42% between 2012 nad 2013. This growth is believed to be associated with Irish consumers’ demand to buy from Irish brands and shops.
of shoes on the Korky’s website. The website also offers the function of real-time stock availability. Korky’s e-commerce site was built on what is a well-recognised Irish high street brand and adapted it into one of Ireland’s best performing online shoe retailers. Michael Corcoran of Korky’s advises that the new website has attracted customers not just in Ireland but throughout Europe and further afield in countries such as America, Canada and Australia. Irish consumers and retailers are now embracing the advantages and opportunities of online shopping. In order to gain sustainable results online, Irish retailers must convert to click with caution and ensure they are not just going where the crowd is, but where the potential sales are.
DEMAND FOR ONLINE RETAILERS IN IRELAND
If a retailer wants to be successful online, it is imperative that their website is responsive so that their target audience can shop while on the move. Studies have found that over six in ten online shoppers would buy from an Irish website if they were aware of one that matched corresponding offers from international sites. The lower prices offered online is resulting in 2.6 million Irish people regularly shopping online, spending on average of €116 each per month (Digital Hub Development Agency 2012). Moreover, Irish consumers online spending is set to continue to grow with UPC predicting 2.6 million Irish shoppers will spend €5.7 billion online in 2016. Predictions suggest that 2.6 million Irish shoppers will spend €5.7 billion online in 2016.
It is clear that there is a demand for Irish retailers to have an online presence. One such Irish retailer that fulfilled this demand is Korky’s, the footwear specialist that boasts over 20 years’ experience of high street shoe retailing in Ireland with shops in both Dublin and Cork. Aware that many of their customers were going online to purchase shoes, Korky’s decided to put themselves where their customers were and launched their first website in 2011. The Korky’s site was designed to mirror the store and to bring the in-store experience to life online. Korky’s site was designed to mirror the store and to bring the in-store experience to life online. Attracting the target audience of 15-35 year old females and males, the site embodies a funky street fashion theme. Best-practice e-commerce design for an enjoyable user experience combined with useful multi-option search functionality helps users find their perfect pair
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Futura | May/June 2014
shop call
Déja Vu Our mystery shopper was intrigued by a much-talked about Dublin 6 boutique, Déja Vu, which specialises in new and ‘pre-loved’ designer clothing. But would the experience match the hype? Out undercover shopper paid a visit to find out.
mere €70, and a stunning Dolce & Gabbana cocktail dress with a price tag of €590, a fraction of its original cost. Other gems on display include a pair of brand new Jimmy Choo sandals, selling for €290 – a significant reduction on their original price of €775; and a Roland Mouret dress which retails at €1,800 but carries a price tag of just €380.
STAFF
THE SHOP
Proprietor Mary McNulty was manning the shop during out visit and proved a veritable breath of fresh air. Friendly, vivacious, personable and extremely knowledgeable, her passion for her trade shines through.
The brainchild of Mary McNulty, Déja Vu is the result of the affable Dubliner’s long-standing passion for fashion and the recognition of a gap in the market for high-end designer fashion in a boutique setting at a fraction of the original price.
Customers were warmly greeted and the offer of assistance, should it be required, was made without exerting any pressure to purchase. Questions, meanwhile, were expertly advice and advice on accessories was expertly given. In short, flawless customer service.
McNulty opened the shop in in November 2010, having previously worked in finance. She realised she had the business acumen to staért her own business and, in her words, “has never looked back.”
VERDICT
LOCATION
The perfect fashion destination for the style-conscious female who wants to look a million dollars without spending a million dollars, Déjà Vu has rightly earned itself as a reputation as the go-to shop for purse-friendly designer fashions. With a beautifully edited stock, pleasing display and wonderfully friendly services, it deserves all it success. Long may it continue!
Located opposite the Luas station in Ranelagh, Dublin 6, Déja Vu has a convenient location in the heart of this thriving southside suburb. The area is populated by a surprising number of independent retailers, including greengrocers, barbershops, beauty salons, cafés, restaurants and bars. Ladieswear boutiques in the vicinity, meanwhile, include Anastasia and Pearl & Bow. There is also a popular shoe shop, Dahlia, close at hand.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS An attractive if not exactly statement-making shop front leaves the passerby in little doubt that Déja Vu is a ladieswear boutique specialising in highend, new and pre-owned clothing. A chic French-style door to the shop and use of a pretty pink paint on the exterior along with a gentle taupe colour sets the tone for a pleasing first impression.
DÉCOR The small but cosy interior is stylishly fitted, boasting polished wooden floorboards, recessed spotlighting and cream-coloured walls, which are broken up by feature walls of Laura Ashley wallpaper with a fashionable bird print. A large, ornate gold mirror adds a sophisticated touch to complement the high-end range of labels stocked. DISPLAY Display is simple but effective. Freestanding hanging rails are used to hold garments such as jackets, blazers and dresses while a wooden display unit with glass shelving holds a number of shoes. Elsewhere, built-in white units provide additional hanging space, and a pair of mannequins are dressed in a blue Issa Dress and a pink Jennifer Rothwell dress respectively.
STOCK Something of an Aladdin’s Cave, Déja Vu has a surprisingly large selection of clothing. The stock, which is frequently updated and comes from boutiques, department stores and Irish designers, includes blue chip labels such as Chanel, Prada, Diane Von Furstenberg, Gucci, Michael Kors, Louis Vuitton, Max Mara, Armani, Christian Louboutin, Dolce & Gabbana and YSL. In addition to a super range of designer clothing, the shop also stocks a range of designer shoes, bags and jewellery from the likes of Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Chanel, as well as a small selection of elegant headpieces. Dresses and coats are particularly well stocked and, commendably, at a cross-section of price points. A quick browse unearthed bargain buys such as a Karen Millen dress, which would be ideal for a summer wedding, for a
Futura | May/June 2014
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brands watching
brand watch
worth
Whether new, established or up-and-coming, we bring you the lowdown on five of the finest labels to watch
LABEL: Hawick Knitwear
LABEL: Natalie King
STYLE: Beautiful knitwear created using traditional methods and hand-finishing, Hawick’s collections feature high-quality sweaters, pullovers and cardigans in a range of classic and contemporary styles and colours.
STYLE: A luxury womenswear brand by Natalie King – who studied, interned and worked in London with leading designers including Roksanda Ilincic, Betty Jackson, Erdem and Dolce & Gabbana – her eponymous label fuses form and function and provides a super showcase for her talents.
TARGET MARKET: Catering to both men and women of all ages, the brand appeal to those with an appreciation of quality and comfort.
Indicative of her aesthetic, the S/S 14 collection uses a host of beautiful materials, such as nappa leather, sand-washed silk, French crepe and duchess satin.
brands watching
USP: Having been in business over strong design heritage and enviable reputation. Garments are made in Scotland using only the finest natural fibres available, which ensures the products have the softest touch while maintaining long-lasting comfort. All lambswool and merino products can be washed at 40°C and tumbledried.
100 years, Hawick boasts a
FURTHER DETAILS: hawickknitwear.com
LABEL: Lucky Lu
STYLE: Designed for the woman who wants to dress with refined and simple elegance for every occasion, the Milan-based label specialises in refined simplicity and elegance. It offers two coordinate collections each year which include everything from dresses to fine and supple knitwear.
TARGET MARKET: Fashionable ladies with their finger on the pulse and looking for contemporary designs that whisper rather LABEL: Georgéde than shout their impeccable style credentials. STYLE: A fusion of unbridled creativity and innovation ensures timeless fashion that, toUSP: Renowned for her skilful gether with flattering designs and interesting use of high-quality fabrics such as silks, French crepe, wool, cashpatterns, creates Georgedé’s signature look. mere and leather, King’s designs The brand is now well-represented brand are characterised by a beautiful across Europe, with over 500 regular cusaesthetic and a clean and distinctomers, an office in Germany and agents in tive cut. Ireland, Great Britain and the Netherlands. FURTHER DETAILS: TARGET MARKET: Primarily the style-connataliekingdesign.com scious woman aged between 30 and 60, although the brand is now looking to broaden its appeal by including younger designs to appeal to the youth market. Indicative of LABEL: Corona Silver the high quality of the component designs, prices are from medium to high end. STYLE: Based in Co. Louth and now in its 20th year in business, USP: Design and production is completed Corona Silver is an award-winunder one roof at the label’s own Paris manufacturing base, ensurning Irish company specialising ing that garments are finished to the highest quality. Furthermore, in exquisite silver and fashion with two collections for summer and two collections for winter, jewellery. It produces four colthe brand is able to keep up-to-date with new trends and styles. lections each year, ensuring that new styles are frequently FURTHER DETAILS: www.georgede.com available.
worth
TARGET MARKET: With a diverse range of pieces, the jewellery appeals to females from their late teens upwards. Prices are similarly multifarious but predominantly purse-friendly, ranging from €25 to €150.
TARGET MARKET: Women of all ages looking for fashion that is chic yet comfortable. USP: Purse-friendly fashion which provides a perfect fit in all sizes.
USP: Jewellery whose recessionfriendly price tag belies its highquality design and finish.
FURTHER DETAILS: Bellina Creations, Unit 7 Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24
FURTHER DETAILS: www.coronasilver.ie
F23
Futura | April 2014
Next issue We focus on the launch of S/S 2015 in Ireland.
The latest from brand leaders. A look at menswear, ladieswear and footwear for S/S 2015.
Failsworth Millinery
Trade Shows and National Stockrooms.
Hats and Headpieces for all Occassion from Stock
More digital information on on-line sales. Closing June 25th 2014
Kay Thornton Mob: 0044 7764860560 Showroom and Stock at:-
Phone 01 -283 6782
Unit 26C, IFC House, Fashion City, Ballymount Rd., Dublin 24
or avril@futuramagazine.ie
Tel 01-429 5770 Email: sales@hattitudeltd.com
Underwear Sleepwear Loungewear Sportswear from stock to 6XL all year around
Contact: John Hayes Mobile: +087 2100373 john.hayes@jockey.com www.jockey.com F24
Thought for the Month “Start where you are, with what you have, and that will always lead you into something greater.�
• Complete School Uniform Range • Stock available throughout the year • Peronsalised Service for every customer • Embroidery & Printing Service • Corporate and promotional clothing suitable for every event Derek Eakin Ltd Tel: +353 (0)49 555 2286 email: schoolwear@derekeakin.com web: www.derekeakin.com
1984 - 2014
THE IRISH SCHOOLWEAR BRAND. School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets, Softshells, Embroidery, MENS KNITWEAR. Year round full stock service. AGENTS: SAMMY FARRAR 01 671 5199 EAST/SOUTH ALBERT SHERLOCK 087 202 7518 WEST/NW JEFF FARRAR 01 671 5199 N EAST Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare. T:(045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie
www.1880club.com Douglas & Grahame 048 - 9332 7777 F25
12-14 Sep. 2014 ONLY PROFESSIONALS
Coinciding with: