The Cellar Door Issue 39: Pinot

Page 16

o call a place “home” is more than naming an address: home is an identity and a commitment. When Pedro Pavone-Voglino emigrated from Italy to Chile in the early 20th century, he promised himself he would build his new home on the cornerstones of respect, honesty, community and responsibility. He held to these commitments when he and his son Félix later acquired the land “chacra Santa Ema” in the heart of the Maipo Valley to build a life in wine.

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The 65-year journey has taken the family winery into its third and fourth generations. Today, Pedro’s grandchildren are active in vineyard, winery and export management: Rossana Pavone oversees finance; Félix, the vineyards and production. The fourth generation—Sebastián, Felipe and Guillermo—are actively involved in domestic sales and exports. “Santa Ema wines must reflect their place of origin and our commitments”, says Andrés Sanhueza, general manager and head winemaker for Santa Ema. “It is a series of details that must be met from vineyard to bottle that preserves the family seal of quality and consistency over time.” To support a diverse range of quality wines, the family has expanded vineyard holdings. Anchored by their historic properties in the Isla de Maipo sub-region, they have acquired select vineyard properties in cool Leyda near the

Pacific coastline, in highly regarded Pirque, at the edge of the Andes, and further south in the Cachapoal Valley in Peumo. For Santa Ema, the unwavering pursuit of quality wine has also meant a pursuit of respect for their team, land and community. “The production of wine is done through people,” says Andrés, “so the team is like an extension of the family itself.” Like other members of the winemaking team, for example, Andrés has been with Santa Ema for more than two decades. “The idea is for everyone to feel part of the family. We are a super committed team, and it is a wonderful working environment with solid pillars.” In the winery, they work toward respectful, low-intervention practices and are in the process of gaining certification for vegan and gluten-free production. “We want to make our wines under an atmosphere of balance, where both land and workers are respected”, comments Andrés. “We work toward biodiversity in the vineyards and have 100% sustainable viticulture, with a view to eventually bring it to organic production.” The family commitment to community is long term. Santa Ema actively supports local education, school renovations and libraries. They have also worked toward Santa Ema 30K, a project to showcase small business goods made within a 30-km range of the winery. While the ravages of the


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