American Countess Commemorative by ppigroup

A merican Countess COMMEMORATIVE

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AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY

A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY

A mer ic a n Countess COMMEMORATIVE

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“ Where

Hospitality comes from the Heart ”

alk through the past today in Historic Augusta, Kentucky. Founded in 1797 by Captain Phillip Buckner, who acquired the land for his service in the Revolutionary War. Today, Augusta is rich with architectural beauty of restored 18th & 19th century homes which line Riverside Drive. Walk in the footsteps of generations past, enjoy our rich heritage, take a cruise or walk on the ‘Ole Augusta Jenny Ann Ferry,’ which has been in service since 1798. Browse through our Unique Antiques & Gift Shops, where every shop has something different for everyone. Dine at one of our local restaurants. Visit Baker-Bird Winery & B. Bird Distillery and tour the place where Augusta residents hid during the Civil War. A small-town community of 1,200 residents — Augusta is ﬁlled with history in every corner. Don’t be surprised when someone along the way says, “Hi. How are you?” and welcomes you with a smile. You will not be disappointed when you visit Augusta. “Where Hospitality comes from the Heart.” AUGUSTA/BRACKEN COUNTY TOURISM 219 MAIN STREET AUGUSTA, KY 41002 606.756.2183

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Historic Madison, Indiana LARGEST CONTIGUOUS

NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARK DISTRICT IN THE UNITED STATES

VisitMadison.org Photo by Bernie Kasper

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DEAR TRAVELER

’m honored to have you join us on American Queen Steamboat Company’s newest vessel, the American Countess. Every paddle wheeler in our authentic collection is dear to my heart, and I appreciate the

chance to share the American Countess with fellow travelers who love river cruising as much as I do. With four decks,

a portside bar with 80-foot panoramic views and 123 comfortable, inviting staterooms in four categories, this lovely paddle wheeler was created to be a home away from home for all who cruise on her. Our guiding principle has always been dedication to our customers through outstanding service from a knowledgeable, enthusiastic team, with top-of-mind safety awareness and a focus on environmental and social responsibility. I am deeply proud of our boats and the amazing journeys they provide. You’ll find that the American Countess features the same trademark level of service as our other uniquely American vessels: the American Queen®, American Empress® and American Duchess™. My hope is that from the moment you came aboard the American Countess, you found her fine touches to be exactly as anticipated. Enjoy your time with fellow like-minded travelers who will share their stories and invite you to do the same. Discover hidden gems in America’s heartland. My hope is that you are left with the rhythm of the river deep in your soul. So, sit back, relax and enjoy your own world-class rivercruising experience. Sincerely,

John W. Waggoner, Founder and CEO, American Queen Steamboat Company

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The Sawmill Museum

www.visitclinton iowa.com t w i t t e r • fa c e b o o k• i n s ta g r a m

George M. Curtis Mansion

Wide River Winery

Dutch Immigrant Windmill

This authentic, fully operational, Dutch windmill was constructed on the flood control dike, in the heart of Fulton, IL. The windmill was engineered and pre-fabricated in the Netherlands, and shipped to the United States in containers by ship, rail and truck transportation.

The Sawmill Museum brings to life how Clinton came to control the logging in the Northwoods. Come experience when logs filled the Mississippi River, sawdust filled the air, and lumber ruled the rails.

Constructed in 1883, the Curtis mansion was the home of lumber baron, George M. Curtis. It served as a showcase for his business, with each room featuring a different wood type and decorated with the flower of the tree from which the wood was obtained.

Wide River Winery takes its name from one of the widest parts of the Mississippi River! Dorothy O'Brien began growing grapes and making wine for her family in 1997.

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WELCOME ABOARD!

n Life on the Mississippi, Mark Twain wrote as honestly as he could about America’s greatest waterway and the people you meet while traveling up and down the river. The famous satirist had nothing but praise for the region itself, writing: “The Mississippi River towns are comely, clean, well built, and pleasing to the eye, and cheering to the spirit. The Mississippi Valley is as reposeful as a dreamland, nothing worldly about it … nothing to hang a fret or a worry upon.” A lot of things have changed since 1883, but that observation still rings as true as it ever did — and on American Countess, you’re about to discover that truth for yourself. Maybe you’ve taken a river cruise before. Maybe you’ve even sailed on one of the paddle wheelers of the American Queen Steamboat Company. But I can guarantee you’ve never been on a ship quite as grand as this one. The only thing you won’t find on board is something to hang a fret or a worry upon! Read more about everything she offers in The Wheel Deal on page 10. What’s really grand, though, is the experience American Countess offers of the mighty river coursing through the heart of America. In the publication you hold in your hands, we celebrate the birthplace of America’s music and the guitar genius of B.B. King in Living the Blues on page 30. We look back to the history-altering innovations of Louisiana boat-builder Andrew Higgins in The Secret Weapon of New Orleans on page 46. We lift our eyes and our spirits with the St. Louis Arch in A Dream in Steel on page 56. And we settle in for some old-fashioned American hospitality with our food and drink stories on Barbecue: The Pitmaster’s Magic on page 20 and Rums of the Mississippi on page 38. With every page you turn, just as with every mile you travel, it’s my hope that you discover something new, wonderful and absolutely stunning to enjoy about this river, this ship and this great country of ours. Smooth sailings … and, dare I say, y’all come back!

Bill Panoff Publisher

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MESSAGE FROM THE

BARBECUE:

30 LIVING THE BLUES

CEO & FOUNDER

THE PITMASTER’S MAGIC

More than musical royalty,

You might think nothing could be

B.B. King’s life opens a

simpler than enjoying America’s

door to blues history.

smoked, saucy goodness —

By Rosalind Cummings-Yeates

MESSAGE FROM THE PUBLISHER

AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY

CONTENTS 4

but a true connoisseur can

share a few savory secrets from behind the grill.

CONTRIBUTORS

By Kevin Revolinski

THE WHEEL DEAL

A look at life along the river from aboard American Countess By Elizabeth Berg

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AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY

RUMS OF THE

THE SECRET WEAPON

MISSISSIPPI

OF NEW ORLEANS

56 A DREAM IN STEEL The Gateway Arch stands as both

People have been making rum

The Greatest Generation

an architectural marvel

as long as we've been growing

remembers how a vessel

and a moving tribute to one of

sugarcane, but a new generation

made for bayou bootleggers

our nation’s proudest eras.

of distilleries is creating intriguing

became the Higgins Boat — and

By Alex Darlington

rums up and down the river.

turned the tide on D-Day.

By Stephen Grasso

By Richard Varr

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Wheel Deal

The

By ELIZABETH BERG

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AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY

A LOOK AT LIFE ALONG THE RIVER FROM ABOARD AMERICAN COUNTESS

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HETHER THIS IS YOUR first river cruise or your 10th, your first paddle wheeler experience, or perhaps your first time on America’s wonderful waterways, welcome aboard American Countess. Regardless of what brought you on board — maybe you’re sailing for a lesson in the area’s history or simply want to savor the region’s food, music or culture — there’s something magical about sailing aboard a new ship during an inaugural season. Maybe it’s those fresh digs, the vibes of enthusiastic fellow passengers or the welcoming crewmembers eager to show off the onboard spaces while visiting the picturesque ports that dot the rivers of America. It’s hard to not feel patriotic while sailing through America’s heartland, a region straight out of the pages of a history book.

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AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY (3); NEW ORLEANS CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU

Clockwise from top left: The Grand Dining Room; one of our expert bartenders; duck confit with Minnesota cranberries; the New Orleans jazz scene

SHORESIDE SPECIALTIES From the moment American Countess pulls into port, her vibrant red paddle wheel signifying her arrival, expect to meet plenty of townspeople who will greet you with a warm welcome. There’s something about learning from locals who love to tell tales of their home. From quaint towns to bustling cities, you’ll explore places that are famous the world over for their musical roots, rich culture, historic attractions and tasty cuisine.

“From the perspective of a riverboat, our voyages are filled with unmatched views of the shorelines and crisp Southern breezes as guests journey through living history,” says John Waggoner, founder and CEO of American Queen Steamboat Company. “We could not be more excited to share these oneof-a-kind experiences on American Countess.” The variety of itineraries and ports showcase the best of the United States. From music museums and fine restaurants to historic sites

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The Pilot House

and Southern charm, you’re exploring a slice

the rich cultural heritage of the region and

of America that played a significant role in the

offer a truly unforgettable experience.”

development of the country. On shore, enjoy

You’ll soon find that these charming towns of

guided shore excursions that will highlight

America are bursting with cultural heritage and

everything from the musical influences of the

memorable tales. Just wait until you step into the

regions (from Memphis’ legendary blues music

pages of history every time you arrive on shore.

scene to the jazz of New Orleans) to some of the country’s most popular attractions, such as the famed St. Louis Gateway Arch, Elvis’ Graceland in Memphis, or New Orleans’ French Quarter. Imagine Southern living during a plantation tour,

ONBOARD AMBIENCE Besides the comfortable and public spaces on board, there are plenty of vantage points from which to sit back and simply watch the scenery

or discover Civil War sites you’ve only read about.

go by. As American Countess slowly sails between

And once you fall in love with cruising aboard a

ports, be sure to spend the moments savoring

paddle wheeler, consider a themed sailing for

your time on the river. Relax in the forward-facing

your next journey. There’s one to suit all interests,

Chart Room and take in a riverlorian chat or

whether you’re a Civil War buff, interested in Mark

navigational lecture; sip on a signature cocktail in

Twain’s Mississippi River, or you simply love some

the Grand Lobby Bar, where you’ll find scenic river

good barbecue, blues or bourbon.

views; or relax on the Sun Deck for fresh breezes

“Our Lower and Upper Mississippi cruises

The Grand Lobby

and open air. When the sun goes down, evening

offer guests the opportunity to discover some

entertainment and activities in The Theater feature

of the most storied and historical landscapes

local performers such as big band or swing dancing

in America from a vantage point that few

or guest lecturers and riverlorians telling tales of the

will ever get to experience,” adds Waggoner.

area or teaching about topics that range from local

“Sailings on American Countess will illuminate

personalities to native wildlife.

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DON’T MISS THE OPPORTUNITY TO TOUR THE PILOT HOUSE, WHERE YOU’LL GET A BEHIND-THESCENES LOOK OF WHAT IT TAKES TO NAVIGATE THE WATERWAYS, GET A LESSON ON BRIDGE EQUIPMENT, AND HEAR STORIES OF LIFE

AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY (3)

ALONG THE RIVER.

Outside stateroom with open veranda

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ONE OF YOUR FAVORITE SPOTS WILL SURELY INCLUDE A VIEW OF THAT BIG, RED, CHURNING PADDLE WHEEL, ITS HYPNOTIC MOTION AS RELAXING AS A METRONOME KEEPING SLOW PACE OF THE RIVER.

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AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY

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CUSTOM BUILT American Countess is the fourth addition to American Queen Steamboat Company’s fleet of authentic paddle wheelers, which also includes American Empress, American Queen and American Duchess. American Countess was built in 2019 at the Gulf Island shipyard in

AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY (3) ; BUDDY MAYS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

The Library

JUST THE FACTS Length: 361 feet Passenger Decks: 4 Suites and Staterooms: 123 Guests: 245

Houma, Louisiana, using the existing hull of a 1995-built former casino

Crewmembers: 98

boat named Kanesville Queen. During this maritime engineering feat,

Itineraries: 6- to 16-day cruises

the riverboat was literally cut in two and a 60-foot mid-body section

along the Lower and Upper

was inserted. (You can check out a cool time-lapse video of the split

Mississippi, Ohio, Cumberland

on American Queen Steamboat Company’s YouTube channel!)

and Tennessee rivers

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Mark Twain look-alike

THESE CHARMING TOWNS OF AMERICA ARE BURSTING WITH CULTURAL HERITAGE AND MEMORABLE TALES. JUST WAIT UNTIL YOU STEP INTO THE PAGES OF HISTORY EVERY TIME YOU ARRIVE ON SHORE. Another way you’ll be immersed in the region you’re sailing is when the onboard culinary team takes advantage of fresh, local ingredients to offer a menu of regional cuisine in the Grand Dining Room, in the more casual River Grill, or, if you’re in

Multnomah Falls

the mood for the ultimate relaxing mealtime, on call with 24-hour room service for dining in the comfort of your stateroom. The menus are inspired by America’s heartland and Southern heritage, so dig in to hearty dishes that boast plenty of local seafood and distinctive flavors. Don’t miss the opportunity to tour the pilot house, where you’ll get a behind-the-scenes look of what it takes to navigate the waterways, get a lesson on bridge equipment, and hear stories of life along the river. And as American Countess navigates the river, you’ll witness the remarkable lock-and-dam system, which allows riverboats to move up or down from different water levels. Of course, one of your favorite spots on board

AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY (3) ; BUDDY MAYS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

will surely include a view of that big, red, churning paddle wheel, its hypnotic motion as relaxing as a metronome keeping slow pace of the river. Sit back

Onboard entertainment

and take it in as you imagine life along the shore. “As cruising continues to grow in popularity, North American river cruising has emerged as a popular travel destination for multiple reasons,” says Waggoner. “This includes a renewed interest in discovering the wonders of their own backyards, the ease of traveling domestically and the charm of the American South.” Some passengers say they sail because they love the lure of the river and charm of the destinations, while others point to the learning opportunities and shared experiences with like-minded travelers. No matter your reasons for being on board, you’re here for all the right ones. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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Barbecue:

Pitmaster’s Magic By KEVIN REVOLINSKI

YOU MIGHT THINK NOTHING COULD BE SIMPLER THAN ENJOYING AMERICA’S SMOKED, SAUCY GOODNESS — BUT A TRUE CONNOISSEUR CAN SHARE A FEW SAVORY SECRETS FROM BEHIND THE GRILL.

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EMILY CHRISTISEN PHOTOGRAPHY

SMOKIN' DOUBLE BARRELS BBQ: Jim Christisen fires up the smoker A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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MARK YOUNGBLOOD / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

HEN IT COMES TO FOOD, nothing is more American than barbecue. But unlike, say, a hamburger being speedily cooked up on a hot grill, barbecue relies on lower temperatures, a lot of smoke, and often indirect heat, thus demanding patience from the pitmaster. Beef brisket can take over 20 hours to finish! But the reward is a tender little piece of smoky heaven. The barbecue method works with beef, pork, chicken or even lamb, and has no troubles with the tougher cuts of meat. The lower and slower approach gives more time for enzymes in the meat to break down — i.e., tenderize — tough connective tissue. As the meat rises past 120 degrees Fahrenheit, those enzymes stop and the muscle fibers begin to shrink and squeeze out water — but less so, because that connective tissue has been weakened. As the temperature climbs over 160 F, collagen within the connective tissue bonds with the moisture to create gelatin. By the time the temperature reaches 200 F, those muscle fibers fall apart, mixing with fat and gelatin to create the perfect barbecue meat: tender and flavorful. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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MARK YOUNGBLOOD / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

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UP IN SMOKE: ribs, coleslaw and potato salad

THE BEST SMOKER WOODS ARE HARDWOODS THAT HAVE BEEN “SEASONED,” DRIED UNTIL ALL MOISTURE AND SAP ARE GONE FROM THEM.

Pot cooking, but barbecue brings smoke to the

and full of resins that would ruin the flavors.)

process. The meat captures different qualities

Some barbecue pitmasters use charcoal, but

of the smoke in its proteins and fats, and

even then, will include hardwood pieces or chips

particularly, in its juices. A different type of wood

for the smoke flavoring.

means a different flavor. The best smoker woods

one smokes meat with pine. It’s a softer wood

In addition to smoke, barbecue brings the

are hardwoods that have been “seasoned,” dried

Maillard Reaction. When heat breaks the proteins

until all moisture and sap are gone from them.

on the surface of the meat down into amino acids,

Among these, hickory and mesquite are quite

they react with sugars to create a browned surface

popular due to their stronger flavors, but alder,

that is incredibly tasty. This effect, combined with

oak, walnut, pecan, apple, cherry and maple all

any applied seasonings and sauces, creates the

make good choices as well. (There’s a reason no

bark of the meat, a chewy, jerky-like crust.

UP IN SMOKE; GLASSHOUSE IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES

This may sound a bit like the effects of Crock-

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UP IN SMOKE; GLASSHOUSE IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES

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WHO’S TO JUDGE? There are some things to consider when eating barbecue with a critical tongue. The Kansas City Barbecue Society (KCBS), for example, trains its judges to consider three qualities: Appearance, Taste and Tenderness. You may know the phrase “falling-off-the-bone-

flavor in the barbecue bark equation. But too much time in the heat burns the sugars and gives some off-flavors.

TO EACH THEIR OWN What’s on the menu or in the bottles at your table really depends on where you are on the

good” but actually for barbecue judges, that’s a

map. In eastern North Carolina, some of the

negative. Yes, rib meat should be tender enough

oldest barbecue sauce recipes bring cider

that it doesn’t fight with you, but every bite you

vinegar together with a blend of cayenne, black

take should come away from the bone gently and

pepper and other spices. Head west a bit and

leave the rest of the meat attached.

ketchup is added to the mix as a tomato base for Lexington-style sauce. Cross the border to South

IN MEMPHIS MORE THAN ANYWHERE, YOU CAN FIND THE WET OR DRY DEBATE PLAYING OUT ON MENUS AND COMPETING BARBECUE JOINTS.

Carolina and you can expect a mustard base. Texas uses “mop” sauce, so called for the way it is applied to the meat. Key ingredients are beef stock, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, garlic and other seasonings, and it tends to be thinner in consistency. Brisket is king. Ketchup and molasses give Kansas City–style sauces a sweeter, heavier consistency while a

In the case of beef brisket, there is a pull test.

bit of liquid smoke heightens the wood flavors.

The meat should come apart easily if you tug at

Recipes may also bring in Worcestershire sauce,

either end of a slice, but it should not merely fall

brown sugar, vinegar, soy sauce and other

apart from its own weight; if you can lay it across

spices, but some joints offer a variety of sauces,

a finger and it bends without splitting, that’s a

including something sweet, something tangy and

good sign.

something spicy.

Beef brisket and pork ribs should end up juicy

Memphis hosts the World Championship

and tender but with a tasty bark. Chicken can

Barbecue Cooking Contest, the largest such

be touchy: Too long in the smoker and it comes

pork-fest in the world. Here more than anywhere,

out dry and unpleasant. Not enough time, and it

you can find the wet or dry debate playing out

looks like rubber. A crispy skin is ideal; too much

on menus and competing barbecue joints. Pork

fatty chew underneath, not so much.

ribs and pulled pork are the norm here, either smothered in sauce (typically tomato-and-vinegar

DRY OR WET? The terms divide barbecue fans. A dry rub is a blend of salt, sugar and an assortment of other dry seasonings. Put on well before the

based) or seasoned with garlic, paprika, onions, cumin and other spices, and served dry — though you still get sauce on the side for dipping. St. Louis–style barbecue is known for its

meat enters the smoker, the rub changes meat

specially trimmed spare ribs with the cartilage bits

proteins to bring out more moisture while giving

removed for easier eating. Down south, you can

flavor to the bark. But in addition to the rub,

find Alabama White Sauce, a paste of mayonnaise,

fans of wet barbecue like a brushing of sauce.

vinegar and pepper mostly used for chicken, and

When you apply barbecue sauce to the meat,

proof that barbecue may be more diverse than

always toward the end of the process, the heat

you ever expected. The only important question

caramelizes the sugars, another complementary

you need to ask is: “Does it taste amazing?”

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PAT’S BBQ AND CATERING

SMOKIN’ DOUBLE BARRELS BBQ

UP IN SMOKE

KANSAS CITY–STYLE BARBECUED PORK RIBS

AS PART OF THE 2020 Barbecue

Pat as a mentor, passing on secrets

UP IN SMOKE

Challenge, American Queen

of dry rubs, sauces, smoke, heat

When the Noranda Aluminum

Steamboat Company invites guests to

and savory meat.

plant closed down in 2016, Charles

rate our onboard chefs against these

Jackson and his 900 co-workers lost

three pitmasters who create some of

SMOKIN’ DOUBLE BARRELS BBQ

their jobs — but this USMC combat

the greatest meat on the river.

St. Louis-style ribs, chicken,

vet refused to back down. Instead,

ground chuck and beef brisket

he poured his heart into providing

PAT’S BBQ AND CATERING

represent just a small portion of

perfect barbecue. His beef brisket

Sure, Pat Burke and his daughter Patty

Jim Christisen’s abiding passion

is smoked between 16 and 20 hours

Welten do more than barbecue —

for making the best barbecue. In

and sliced to order (never pre-sliced)

but Pat’s a National BBQ Hall of

2011, he took his talent out of his

to preserve freshness. Pork steaks

Fame Pitmaster who has won more

backyard and into what would

and ribs are sliced, trimmed and

barbecue championships than any

become Smokin’ Double Barrels

skinned each morning. Freshness

living person. He co-founded Apple

BBQ. The restaurant is a warm and

counts — his national sales doubled

City Barbecue in 1989 and won a

cozy place for friends and family

in the last year.

trophy at their first contest. In the

to enjoy mouthwatering barbecue

decades since, he’s won hundreds of

and other tasty foods, but Jim’s

Ask your booking specialist about

championships, including Memphis

also a seasoned competitor,

American River BBQ Challenge cruises,

BBQ Network’s Lifetime Achievement

pitting his dishes against others in

where guests judge regional barbecue

Award. Many pitmasters look up to

competitions across America.

masters against our culinary team.

PAT'S BARBECUE; EMILY CHRISTISEN PHOTOGRAPHY; LLUMUS PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; UP IN SMOKE

MEET OUR AMERICAN RIVER BBQ CHALLENGERS

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Living the Blues By ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES

ALESSANDRO LAPORTA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

MORE THAN MUSICAL ROYALTY, B.B. KING'S LIFE OPENS A DOOR TO BLUES HISTORY.

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CARASDELMUNDO/GETTY IMAGES

HE BLUES IS THE ULTIMATE American folk music. It is the essence of the field hollers, chants and rhythms that enslaved Africans created as they toiled on Southern plantations. This simpleseeming yet complex music evokes a range of emotions, from longing and desperation to joy and satisfaction. It has evolved over 100 years to serve as the foundation for all American popular music, from rock to jazz, R&B and hiphop. Blues is more than just music, it is a culture, a history, a feeling. You can experience blues all over the world, where it is embraced by musicians, scholars and music fans alike — but to understand its roots, you need to travel to the birthplace of the blues and its king: the Mississippi Delta.

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CARASDELMUNDO/GETTY IMAGES

The Mississippi Delta, home to large cotton plantations, was the birthplace of the blues.

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Snap a picture at the legendary Crossroads in Clarksdale, Mississippi (left). Join our shore excursion in Indianola for a live performance at the B.B. King Museum (far right) and a visit to the iconic Club Ebony.

The Mississippi Delta stretches across the northwest region of the state, between the

where the blues began, but there is one spot that

Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers. This flat, fertile

is considered the most significant. Lined along

land, which unfolds for 7,000 square miles, was

the fabled “Blues Highway” of Highway 61, the

where large cotton plantations were planted

expansive plantation of Dockery Farms covered

and thousands of Africans did backbreaking

almost 40 square miles in Cleveland, Mississippi,

work. The swampy heat, brutal violence and

and housed almost 3,000 people during its

inhumane conditions combined to inspire the

heyday at the turn of the 20th century. A young

enslaved to create work songs and call-and-

boy from nearby Indianola, Riley King, heard

response chants to communicate with each

about blues masters who played regularly on the

other and to release some of their anguish.

steps of the commissary.

Most of these early songs could be traced back

There is no definitive location in the Mississippi Delta that can claim the title as the first place

The most famous was the “Father of the

to West African rhythms that were retained

Delta Blues,” Charley Patton. An inventive

during the Middle Passage. By the mid-19th

guitarist with a gravelly and passionate voice,

century, the Delta was the richest cotton-

he wove social commentary and sly wordplay

farming land in the country and the sound of

into songs that captured life on the plantation.

these 12-bar songs could be heard in every

Patton was a flamboyant showman who played

corner of it.

guitar with his teeth and behind his back,

JAMES KIRKIKIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO: BB KING MUSEUM (2)

BLUES BEGINNING

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JAMES KIRKIKIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO: BB KING MUSEUM (2)

AS A DISC JOCKEY AND SINGER, THE YOUNG MAN BECAME KNOWN AS THE BEALE STREET BLUES BOY, WHICH WAS LATER SHORTENED TO BEE BEE AND EVENTUALLY, JUST THE INITIALS.

and his career laid the framework for the charismatic, traveling bluesman. He played all over the region using Dockery Farms as his base, where he performed at dances and juke joints. Charley influenced and mentored blues musicians like Robert Johnson, Howlin’ Wolf and Son House on the porches and in the shacks of Dockery Farms. By the late 1920s, he was the first real blues celebrity and set the stage for the possibilities that this music could

Ask your booking specialist about the Small Towns, Big Legends — The Story of B.B. King excursion, available on New Orleans-Memphis cruises. American Countess calls on Port of the Mississippi Delta (gateway to Greenville and Indianola) on 2020 New Orleansto-Memphis sailings on Apr 5&19, May 3&17, Jul 19, Aug 2&16, Oct 4&18 and Nov 15, as well as on Memphis-to-New Orleans cruises on Apr 12&26, May 10, Jul 12&26, Aug 9, Oct 11 and Nov 8&22. 2021 cruises are available for reservations.

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From left: B.B. King's Blues Club on Beale Street; B.B. King mural on Lamar Avenue, Memphis

plantations in Indianola, where he had absorbed

oppressive Jim Crow laws that quickly took the

the sounds and emotions of the blues. Although

place of the now-illegal slave system) spurred

he started out singing gospel in church, he

African Americans to move out of the Delta

learned to play guitar and was soon earning more

towns where sharecropping was the only source

money singing and playing blues on the streets

of income. This “Great Migration” pulled these

than he did on the plantation. Riley moved to

migrants to big Northern cities like Chicago and

Memphis where his cousin Bukka White was a

St. Louis, where Delta blues would expand into

well-known blues guitarist. He studied Bukka’s

more stylized forms. But the first stop on the way

style and developed his own signature ringing-

north for many musicians was Memphis and the

vibrato tones. One day, he snagged the chance to

cultural mecca of Beale Street.

play for blues harpist Sonny Boy Williamson, who

The “Father of the Blues,” W.C. Handy, had kicked off a blues bonanza when he penned

Riley King had grown up working on cotton

The Emancipation Proclamation (and the

hosted a Memphis radio show. The harmonica player was so impressed that he offered Riley his

“Memphis Blues” in 1912. Soon, Mississippi blues

own radio show. As a disc jockey and singer, the

musicians Memphis Minnie, Joe McCoy and Furry

young man became known as the Beale Street

Lewis developed notoriety playing Beale Street

Blues Boy, which was later shortened to Bee Bee

clubs and corners.

and eventually, just the initials.

ANDREA ZUCKER PHOTOGRAPHY/MEMPHIS CVB; CRAIG THOMPSON/ MEMPHIS CVB

MOVING TO MEMPHIS

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ANDREA ZUCKER PHOTOGRAPHY/MEMPHIS CVB; CRAIG THOMPSON/ MEMPHIS CVB

ELECTRIC AND WORLDWIDE B.B. King helped mold the foundation for

B.B.’s single-note solos jumped out of songs like his signature “The Thrill Is

post-war blues. His first hit, “Three O’Clock

Gone” and “Paying the Cost to Be the Boss,”

Blues,” climbed the charts in 1951. It showcased

influencing the style of lead guitarists in

his bent notes and distinctive phrasing. The

every genre. Dubbed “King of the Blues” and

acoustic guitar and harmonica had been the

listed as one of the essential “three blues

hallmark of the blues of his childhood but

kings” (the others being Albert King and

as Delta Blues sprang up in big cities, the

Freddie King), B.B. King was most responsible

electric guitar led the way for a new style. By

for taking the blues from the plantations to

the mid-’50s, B.B. was famously playing 300

international concert halls. In the process, he

shows a year, in the segregated clubs and

earned 18 Grammy Awards, the Presidential

theaters of the Chitlin’ Circuit. His constant

Medal of Freedom and inductions into the

companion was Lucille, the Gibson guitar he

Blues Hall of Fame and the Rock & Roll Hall

named for the woman who inspired a fight

of Fame. Taking a trip through the Mississippi

and subsequent fire at a juke joint he was

Delta, through the juke joints of Indianola and

playing in Arkansas. He ran back in to rescue

the glistening music venues and museums of

his $60 guitar and named her Lucille to remind

Memphis, demonstrates just how far blues

himself to never do anything so foolish again.

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WEYO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Rumsof the River By STEPHEN GRASSO

PEOPLE HAVE BEEN MAKING RUM AS LONG AS WE’VE BEEN GROWING SUGARCANE, BUT A NEW GENERATION OF DISTILLERIES IS CREATING INTRIGUING RUMS UP AND DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI.

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WEYO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

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However, when renowned New Orleans painter and sculptor James Michalopoulos founded Celebration Distillation in the Big Easy in 1995, there were no longer any rum producers in the entire country. Michalopoulos began building small test stills in the early ’90s in the Bywater and Lower Seventh Ward districts. In 1995, he founded Celebration Distillation in a 150-year-old cotton warehouse. Hurricane Katrina flooded the building with more than 8 feet of water, but following a massive renovation project, the distillery bounced back. Their success kick-started a new wave of craftspirit makers of the Mississippi.

CELEBRATION DISTILLATION (2)

UGAR HAS ALWAYS BEEN BIG in Louisiana, where the Mississippi River drops the last of its fertile silt before flowing into the Gulf of Mexico. In fact, it’s the second largest sugarcane-producing state in the U.S. With this agricultural history, as well as New Orleans’ geographic and cultural proximity to the traditional Caribbean rum economies, it would be easy to assume a venerable tradition of rum production in the state and up the river — anywhere cane-carrying riverboats could travel. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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CELEBRATION DISTILLATION (2)

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LOUISIANA’S RUM EXPLOSION Celebration Distillation processes locally sourced molasses from LaFourche Sugars

set up in the Big Easy. Lula Restaurant-Distillery

in Thibodaux in tanks and stills built from

opened its doors in February 2017 with a

repurposed dairy equipment to make four

new concept similar to a brewpub, but with a

varieties of rum. Old New Orleans Crystal Rum is

Southern culinary spin … and craft rum, vodka

made clear with nothing added; Old New Orleans

and gin made on site. Chef-owners Jess and

Amber Rum is aged two to four years with cocoa,

Erin Bourgeois and distiller-owner Bear Caffery

leather and dried fruit flavors; Old New Orleans

actually had to see a bill passed by the Louisiana

121 Proof Rum is an overproof version, and

State House to permit their new concept to exist.

Old New Orleans Cajun Spice Rum is created

Following the success of Celebration Distillation, a number of other rum producers

The Bourgeoises met Caffery while on vacation

with a blend of seven spices: chicory, clove,

in New Zealand in 2009. Louisiana native Jess

cayenne, allspice, nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon.

Bourgeois was a food science graduate who had

Celebration created a special edition King Creole

worked at New Orleans restaurants including

Rum for its 20th anniversary, which was lauded

the Commander’s Palace. Caffery had studied

as the best rum in the U.S. by the American

biology and chemistry at Louisiana Tech, and

Beverage Tasting Institute.

brewed craft beer in his spare time. But after

CHARBONEAU DISTILLERY; STEPHEN SAKS PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; CHARBONEAU DISTILLERY

From left: Join our excursion to Charboneau Distillery for a guided tour of the distillation process.

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Then visit King's Tavern next door — the oldest building in Natchez — to enjoy a cocktail made with Charboneau rum.

gluten allergy curtailed his passion for brewing — and after moving to New Zealand, where home distilling is legal — Caffery began learning the ropes of the trade. He returned to New Orleans, became reacquainted with the Bourgeoises and the idea for Lula took shape. Once House Bill 233 was passed in 2015, they purchased a former furniture showroom on St. Charles Avenue in the Lower Garden District,

TODAY, CHARBONEAU BOTTLES FOUR TYPES OF RUM USING RAW SUGAR AND MOLASSES FROM A LOUISIANA MILL, AS WELL AS AWARD-WINNING NATCHEZ MUNICIPAL WATER.

and began serving Southern favorites like shrimp and grits, braised rabbit with white beans, boudinstuffed quail, and seasonal boiled seafood such as crawfish, shrimp and blue crab. A floor-to-ceiling glass wall reveals the gleaming copper towers of the distillery and allows restaurant-goers to view every stage of the distillation process as they dine and partake of the liquor made on-site. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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THERE WERE NO SUGARCANE FIELDS IN THE IOWA GRAIN COUNTRY. INSTEAD, THEY HIT UPON THE IDEA OF USING LOCALLY SOURCED SORGHUM SYRUP. Belle Rose, Louisiana, near Donaldson, where

The distillery is open for tours. Next door, the

Jess Bourgeois grew up and where the distillery

King’s Tavern Restaurant impresses visitors with

sources its raw cane sugar. They combine

handmade flatbreads baked in a wood-fired oven,

the heritage of Louisiana cane country with

unique rum cocktails made with Charboneau

a thorough knowledge of small-batch spirit

rum, and an even more striking history.

production, and even sell some of their more popular cocktails on draft in the restaurant.

MISSISSIPPI SPIRITS Further up the Mississippi in Natchez, the

The restaurant is the oldest building in Natchez, serving as a tavern, inn and post office since its construction in the late 1700s. It’s also alleged to be one of the most haunted buildings in Mississippi. In the 1930s, the skeletal remains

Charboneau Distillery opened in 2014, producing

of two men and a woman were found hidden

the first legally distilled rum in the state of

in a wall behind the fireplace along with a

Mississippi. Regina and Doug Charboneau

mysterious jeweled dagger. The remains were

traveled the Caribbean during the 1990s and

never identified, but the woman is thought

became interested in rum. When they returned

to have been Madeline, the mistress of the

to Regina’s hometown of Natchez, in the middle

tavern’s original owner who had disappeared

of sugar-cane country, all the components were

in unusual circumstances. Today, she’s said to

in place to pursue their dream. They restored

haunt the building, along with the ghost of a

their small-batch distillery and restaurant in 2013. Today, Charboneau bottles four types of rum —

through a reverse osmosis filtration system.

baby killed at the site by a cruel highwayman who couldn’t stand its crying. Several witnesses have

White, Gold, Rouge and Black — using raw sugar

reported hearing a child crying on the tavern’s

and molasses from a Louisiana mill, as well as

second floor when nobody is upstairs, and eerie

award-winning Natchez municipal water purified

reflections have appeared in some of the mirrors.

MISSISSIPPI RIVER DISTILLING COMPANY; SHANNON RAMOS/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES;. OPPOSITE PAGE: STILL 630

Lula is named after the Lula Sugar Factory in

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MISSISSIPPI RIVER DISTILLING COMPANY; SHANNON RAMOS/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES;. OPPOSITE PAGE: STILL 630

A MISSOURI TIPPLE In 2017, St. Louis’ StilL 630 debuted its flagship rum, a spirit named in honor of the legendary Lewis & Clark expedition, which left from St.

overseeing every step under one roof. One hundred percent of the grain comes from within 25 miles of the distillery. In 2013, the Burchett brothers succumbed

Louis on its journey into unchartered territory.

to requests that they should make rum — a

Expedition Rum is made with 100 percent

challenge for a brand based on using only local

grade-A molasses and aged in American oak

ingredients. There were no sugarcane fields in

barrels. Part of it then finishes aging in Double

the Iowa grain country. Instead, they hit upon

Barrel Rally Point Rye barrels before being

the idea of using locally sourced sorghum

blended back with the base rum, adding a rye

syrup. They found a supplier in Maasdam

spiciness to the dark-fruit, vanilla and molasses

Sorghum Mills near Lynnville, Iowa, which

flavor profile.

boasts a steam-powered sorghum press

StilL 630’s owner, David Weglarz, was an English

and cooks sweet sorghum juice down to a

major, whitewater rafting guide and futures trader

molasses-like syrup. The Burchett brothers

before becoming a distiller. He explains that

ordered a 55-gallon drum and set about

the “St” and “L” of his distillery’s name represent

making their new product.

pride in its hometown, while the 630 represents 630 feet, the height and width of the famous St.

Their recipe for sorghum rum was denied federal approval when they

Louis Arch. The Arch, like Expedition Rum itself,

submitted their paperwork; in order to

celebrates the bravery and pioneer spirit of the

qualify as “rum,” 100 percent of the base

men and women who settled the West.

materials needed to be cane sugar or cane

NORTHERN DIFFERENCE The Mississippi River Distillery in LeClaire, Iowa, was founded in 2010 by brothers Ryan and Garrett Burchett. Situated on the banks of

molasses to qualify. And so they came up with the name “Sorghrum” for this new, lightly spiced concoction, and it stuck. Innovation is part of every spirit made up and down the Great

the Mississippi and surrounded by grain fields,

River. Wherever you travel, there’s

the distillery takes a “grain-to-glass” approach,

a good reason to say, “Cheers.”

American Countess calls on New Orleans and Natchez on 8-day Lower Mississippi River cruises between New Orleans and Memphis, and on 15-day cruises between Red Wing, Minnesota, and New Orleans. American Countess calls on Alton (St. Louis) on 8-day Mississippi and Ohio Rivers cruises between Alton, Illinois, and Memphis, on 8-day Upper Mississippi River cruises between Alton, Illinois, and Red Wing, Minnesota, and on 15-day cruises between Red Wing, Minnesota, and New Orleans. American Countess calls on Clinton and Dubuque, Iowa, on Upper Mississippi River itineraries between Alton (St. Louis) and Red Wing (Minneapolis), and calls on Dubuque, Bettendorf, and Burlington, Iowa, on 15-day cruises between Red Wing, Minnesota, and New Orleans.

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EVERETT COLLECTION INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

THE GREATEST GENERATION REMEMBERS HOW A VESSEL MADE FOR BAYOU BOOTLEGGERS BECAME THE HIGGINS BOAT — AND TURNED THE TIDE ON D-DAY.

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EVERETT COLLECTION INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

The

Secret Weapon of

By RICHARD VARR

New Orleans A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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The Greatest Generation lands on Normandy aboard an LCVP.

GADO IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

HEY CHUGGED ALONG in single file on what seemed to be superhighways atop the water, crossing the English Channel and onward to what would soon be one of history’s most momentous military events. Thousands of sleek watercraft, each with the capacity to haul 36 combat-ready soldiers, headed to Normandy’s beaches to begin the Allied forces’ D-Day assault on a heavily fortified Nazi battlefront — an invasion on June 6, 1944 that would have been simply impossible just a few years earlier. That’s because as World War II began, the landing watercraft — the so-called “Higgins Boat” — was just an idea of a tough but spirited, hard-drinking and hard-cussing Louisiana industrialist named Andrew Higgins, whose inspiration changed the course of history. Spawned from his simple but uniquely designed shallow-draft boats, his prototypes for the LCVP (Landing Craft, Vehicle Personnel) caught on quickly for its most obvious feature: a forward bow ramp that drops open, allowing soldiers to quickly storm beaches and shorelines. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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GADO IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

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While never achieving the status or fame of a

WHO WON THE WAR FOR US,”

World War II hero, general or admiral, historians

DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER SAID.

Orleans industry titan for his indefatigable drive

and military leaders tip their hats to this New

“IF HIGGINS HAD NOT DESIGNED

to build as many landing craft as possible — thus

AND BUILT THOSE LCVPS, WE

shores. “Andrew Higgins is the man who won the

NEVER COULD HAVE LANDED OVER AN OPEN BEACH.”

the means to quickly deliver boots on foreign war for us,” said Dwight D. Eisenhower during a 1964 interview. “If Higgins had not designed and built those LCVPs, we never could have landed over an open beach.” Eisenhower, the former U.S. president and Supreme Allied Commander in Europe, explained: “The whole strategy of the war

Opposite page: The Higgins Industries factory floor 50

would have been different.”

COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM (2)

“ANDREW HIGGINS IS THE MAN

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AN IDEA MAN Andrew Jackson Higgins was born in Nebraska

for unloading, as well as quick pullback into the water. The design included a recessed propeller

in 1886. After brawls in school, he dropped out

within a groove in the hull that helped protect the

and joined the National Guard. He moved to

blades from debris in shallow water.

New Orleans in his early 20s, got a job in the

The Eureka Boat, typically made of plywood,

lumber industry and eventually started his own

was used by oil companies with the Gulf Coast

lumber exporting business. By the mid 1920s, he

emerging as a tapping ground for oil reserves,

began a boat-building company that produced

as well as with trappers and, purportedly, liquor

the so-called “Eureka Boat,” a shallow-hulled

bootleggers. In fact, it was during Prohibition

and inexpensive cargo-hauling craft that could

that Higgins Industries built the fast-moving

maneuver through Louisiana’s bayous and

boats for the U.S Coast Guard cracking down on

marshes and along the mouth of the Mississippi

rumrunners and whiskey smugglers.

River. A key feature was the up-slanted “spoonbill” bow, which allowed easy access onto riverbanks

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IT’S PERHAPS SURPRISING THAT THESE WARTIME LANDING CRAFT WERE MADE PRIMARILY OF WOOD — MAYBE FLIMSY BUT NONETHELESS EFFICIENT AND LIGHTWEIGHT, AND QUICKLY BUILT AT A LOWER COST.

greatest success as the war years loomed

A DESIGN REMEMBERED “Higgins was a visionary. He knew he had the

ahead. The U.S. Navy and Marine Corps got

right boat for the right moment, and he was not

wind of the practical watercraft and thought it

shy about telling the U.S. Navy and the world that

ideal for their amphibious operations; namely,

his boat was the best for the job,” says Joshua

landing on beaches. A 30-foot version based

Schick, curator at New Orleans’ National World

on a government design was first built, but

War II Museum which has a reproduction of the

Higgins urged the Navy to build bigger for better

Higgins Boat as part of a permanent exhibition.

performance, and it was soon replaced with a

“Higgins’ success was based on his own personal

36-foot boat.

drive. The swearing and outbursts are a very

Early designs, however, did not have the

small part of the vast energy put out by a man

dropping bow ramp to allow easy access onto

who was truly passionate about his work and

the beaches and shorelines, leaving troops more

getting it done correctly, and at a fair price.”

vulnerable to gunfire as they climbed over the

The museum’s exhibition, Bayou to Battlefield:

sides. The ramp was actually inspired by Japanese

Higgins Industries During World War II, showcases

engineering — U.S. military observers had taken

how the landing craft evolved from Higgins’

note of a similar troop-carrying boat used since

Eureka Boat and the dramatic and historical

1937 during the Second Sino-Japanese War.

impact the new LCVPs had on beach landings

The U.S. Marines were particularly interested

and amphibious assaults. The exhibit also

in this feature and requested that Higgins add

details the history of the burgeoning company

it. Prototypes were successfully tested on Lake

through artifacts, panel displays, model LCVPs

Pontchartrain and contracts soon followed. While

and video. Artifacts include employee work

the LCVP dominated the production lines, Higgins

helmets, LCVP steering wheels and prototype

Industries also built other varieties of landing

testing boats, among others, while the

craft including 50-foot-long LCMs (Landing Craft,

perspectives of Higgins Industries employees

Mechanized) to transport tanks, along with PT

can be heard through oral history clips. Higgins

boats, torpedo tubes, gun turrets and many

Industries also built precision components for

other watercrafts and weapons.

the Manhattan Project.

GLASSHOUSE IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

Depression, but Higgins Industries found its

Higgins’ company, by all accounts, became an

Opposite page: (top) An electric arc welder at Higgins Industries in July 1942; (bottom) More than 20,000 Higgins Boats were made through the war. 52

enormously successful business. A workforce of only 75 in 1938 swelled to more than 20,000 by 1943, just a year before the Normandy invasion. Higgins’ fully integrated workforce included men

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GLASSHOUSE IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

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feet wide with two .30 caliber machine guns. It

time in the segregated South. Together, they built

fit 36 combat-ready soldiers or other cargo such

more than 20,000 Higgins Boats through the

as a jeep, small truck or supplies and a smaller

war, and all were paid equally depending on their

number of soldiers. Its 225-horsepower diesel

job status. Raw materials took shape quickly:

engine could reach speeds of 12 knots, or 14

flat-bottomed hulls and other war machines

miles per hour. It’s perhaps surprising that these

crammed the multiple assembly lines in seven

wartime landing craft were made primarily of

plants that produced 700 boats a month. Besides

wood — maybe flimsy but nonetheless efficient

the dramatic effort on D-Day, Higgins Boats

and lightweight, and quickly built at a lower cost.

were also used in other amphibious landings

The steel bow ramp did offer protection against

throughout World War II, including in North

enemy fire, while armor plating was eventually

Africa, Sicily, mainland Italy and Provence, as well

added to the wooden frame.

as in the Pacific at Guadalcanal, Iwo Jima, Okinawa and the Philippines. 54

Higgins’ LCVP was 36 feet long and about 11

African Americans — virtually unheard of at the

When the war ended, demand for the Higgins Boat dwindled. The company was forced to

COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM (3)

and women, elderly and disabled, whites and

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COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM (3)

Andrew Jackson Higgins

restructure, eventually closing all but one of its plants and changing its boat manufacturing from combat designs to pleasure craft. Andrew Higgins died from complications due to a stomach ailment in 1952. His sons took over the business, but it eventually fell into debt and was sold in 1959. With some 30 patents to his name, Andrew Higgins no doubt played a key role in winning World War II — an honor that has received the recognition it deserves. “It’s easy to view Andrew Higgins through the lens of a talented, but temperamental Southern boatbuilder,” concludes Schick. “Yet this view only does partial justice to the complexity of Higgins’ personality and his

Ask your booking specialist about the Hidden History: World War II in New Orleans excursion, visiting the National World War II Museum.

impact on history.” A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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EXPLORE ST. LOUIS

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EXPLORE ST. LOUIS

A Dream in Steel

By ALEX DARLINGTON

THE GATEWAY ARCH STANDS AS BOTH AN ARCHITECTURAL MARVEL AND A MOVING TRIBUTE TO ONE OF OUR NATION’S PROUDEST ERAS. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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INGRAM IMAGE

T’S HARD TO DECIDE which is the more moving and impressive aspect of the famed Gateway Arch. Is it the astonishing structure itself, or the powerful ideas embodied in the history it stands for? Even just on the face of it, staring at the architectural wonder from the banks of the Mississippi or from the deck of a boat on the river, it can take your breath away. Also known as “The St. Louis Arch” or “The Jefferson National Expansion Memorial,” its beauty is overwhelming. Arcing up beside the river like a shining, stainless-steel rainbow, it stretches a staggering 630 feet into the sky. That makes it Missouri’s tallest accessible building, the tallest man-made monument in the Western Hemisphere, and the tallest arch in the entire world.

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INGRAM IMAGE

Visitors are allowed inside, and those who

odds are good that one of the first things on their

wish to can take a 10-minute round-trip tram

list (right after the Revolutionary and Civil Wars)

ride all the way to the top and back down.

will be our taming of the “Wild West.”

The sheer genius of its construction is mindblowing. During the building, many experts

And that’s, in fact, what the arch was built to commemorate.

thought it would collapse when the final piece was set in place. To get an idea of how precise its assembly had to be, consider this: The two “legs”

REMEMBERING THE WEST The winning of the West is told by cowboy

were built separately and shipped in pieces by

movies, 19 th-century novels, old-time folk

train from Pennsylvania to the site where welders

songs, paintings by Remington and Ralston, and

did the fine-tuning. If its measurements had been

grainy sepia photographs by photographers

off by so much as one-sixty-fourth of an inch,

like Matthew Brady. But even today, it’s a

the arch wouldn’t have been able to join at the

story that throbs in America’s heart line.

top and the entire project would have been a financial (and perhaps even life-claiming) disaster. But the physical grandeur and majesty of it are

It all began in 1803, when President Thomas Jefferson negotiated the Louisiana Purchase with France, giving us 827,000

only part of what makes the arch so awe-inspiring.

square miles of land west of the Mississippi.

Ask anyone — not only in the United States, but

The acquisition nearly doubled the nominal

in Europe and Asia as well — what they associate

size of the country and included the bustling

with the formation and growth of America, and

and lucrative Port of New Orleans. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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DANITA DELIMONT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. OPPOSITE PAGE: JEFFREY ISAAC GREENBERG 7/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; PICTURES NOW/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

EVEN TODAY, IT’S A STORY THAT THROBS IN AMERICA’S HEART LINE. Shortly after the signing, legendary explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark set out to demystify and map this newly acquired land. They did much more. With the help of their Shoshone guide, Sacagawea, they formed partnerships with the Shoshone tribe and set up trade with the Native Americans. Essentially, they laid the groundwork for the impressive beginnings of what was to follow. Their explorations paved the way for the massive growth of the United States. Courageous Americans, in search of adventure and a new life, began leaving the relative safety of the Atlantic Coast and moving into the unknown, settling the states — and territories that would become states — of Arkansas, Oklahoma, Montana, Colorado, Wyoming and others. Spurred on by rumors of gold, opportunities to work in the cattle industry and the promise of cheap land provided by the Homestead Act, hundreds of thousands of stalwart easterners began to migrate toward the Pacific. By 1840, 40 percent of our population (7 million people) lived west of the Appalachian Mountains. Because it was one of the major cities east of the wilderness, St. Louis earned the nickname “Gateway to the West.” Jump ahead more than a century to 1933: Two St. Louis civic leaders, Luther Smith and Bernard Dickmann, submitted a proposal to city leaders suggesting that they erect a monument not only to the major movers and shakers, but to ALL the brave citizens who took part in expanding our land.

History permeates everywhere: Lewis and Clark sculpture on the St. Louis riverfront (opposite); inside the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial visitors center (top); Shoshone guide, Sacagawea, was an important figure in the Lewis and Clark Expedition. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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IF ITS MEASUREMENTS HAD BEEN OFF BY SO MUCH HAVE BEEN ABLE TO JOIN AT THE TOP AND THE INGENUITY AND INSPIRATION In 1947, authorities arranged what amounted to a contest — a competition among the greatest architects of the day. They assembled a panel of knowledgeable judges to evaluate the plans. The panel finally approved the design submitted by The proposal read, in part: “[Our goal is to create] a suitable and permanent public memorial to the men who made possible the western territorial expansion, particularly President Jefferson, his aides, the great explorers, and

the Finnish-American genius Eero Saarinen, who got busy manifesting his dream. It took 20 years, but the arch officially opened to the public on June 10, 1967. It wasn’t easy. Not only was the construction

the hardy hunters, trappers, frontiersmen and

difficult (fraught with union problems and

pioneers who contributed to the development of

logistical dilemmas), there was also resistance

these United States.”

from many St. Louis residents as well.

JASON MEYER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; MIKE VOSS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A carved mural under the Gateway Arch dedicated to the builders of the Arch; Visitors inside the Gateway Arch National Park

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A E

JASON MEYER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; MIKE VOSS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

AS ONE-SIXTY-FOURTH OF AN INCH, THE ARCH WOULDN’T ENTIRE PROJECT WOULD HAVE BEEN A DISASTER. The construction of the arch entailed building a park around it. The area now known as Gateway Arch National Park

and surrounding park are viewed as the proudest and most important attribute of their state. The park and arch are open to the public.

required the tearing down of 40 square

Visitors can spend the day there on their own,

blocks of the city. These neighborhoods

just wandering through and talking to the locals.

held not only private homes, but also

But anyone wishing to learn more and enjoy a

places of commerce. In the end, buildings

“up-close and personal” experience can book one

housing 290 businesses were demolished.

of the many tours available.

Making matters worse, authorities

Whether your interest is in its artistry and

later discovered that the vote to allocate

architecture, or in simply feeling the stirring

city funds to okay the project had been

sense of patriotism evoked by remembering the

rigged. Talk about salt in the wounds!

majestic history it stands for, a visit to the St.

But now, with the passing of time, few Missourians hold that grudge. Today, the arch

Louis Arch is guaranteed to be a powerful and unforgettable experience. A MER ICA N COUNTESS

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AMERICAN COUNTESS Bill Panoff Publisher Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director Grant Balfour, Phillip Crandall Managing Editors Chanel Samson Copy Editor Caroline Geertz, Skip Anderson Art Directors Laura Roche Senior Art Director Tammy Robinson Ad Services Director

CUMMINGS-YEATES

GRASSO

REVOLINSKI

VARR

Alexandria Geubelle Creative Assistant Elizabeth Berg, Rosalind Cummings-Yeates, Alex Darlington, Stephen Grasso, Kevin Revolinski, Richard Varr Contributing Writers Deb Bottcher Proofreader Alamy, Getty Images, Ingram Image Contributing Photographers American Queen Steamboat Company Cover Image Sharon Cherry Vice President, Brand Sales and Development Brett Grady Director, Global Sales Richard Collins Regional Sales Manager PPI GROUP Bill Panoff CEO/Chairman William P. Jordan III President Audrey Balbiers-Panoff Chief Operating Officer Jose I. Martin Chief Financial Officer Linda Douthat Senior Vice President, Publishing Piero Vitale Senior Vice President, Corporate Strategy & Financial Planning Sharon Cherry Vice President, Brand Sales and Development Christina Hunting Vice President, Digital Marketing Soren Domlesky Director of Technology Patti Lankford Executive Assistant to the CEO Please address all correspondence to American Countess c/o PPI Group Corporate Headquarters 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 • Fax: (954) 377-7000 Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com • Website: www.ppigroup.com Printed in Canada. © 2020 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. American Countess is published under contract to PPI Group. The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to publications@ ppigroup.com. Any prices quoted are subject to change, but correct at press time. Commentary and opinions expressed in American Countess are not necessarily those of the publisher or cruise line. American Queen Steamboat Company and PPI Group are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in American Countess.

CONTRIBUTORS ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES specializes in writing cultural travel stories that reflect a destination's history and traditions. Her work has appeared in Hemispheres, Miami Herald, Brides and Go magazine, among others. She’s the author of Exploring Chicago Blues: Inside the Scene, Past and Present (History Press). Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @farsightedgirl. STEPHEN GRASSO is a freelance writer and world traveler currently based in Hialeah, Florida, previously from London, UK, and originally from Newcastle. He writes about music, film and culture, and is working on his first novel. KEVIN REVOLINSKI has lived abroad in Italy, Panama and Guatemala, writing for Rough Guide guidebooks, Caribbean Travel & Life, Chicago Tribune, and Wisconsin State Journal, as well as a memoir, The Yogurt Man Cometh: Tales of an American Teacher in Turkey. RICHARD VARR, a former TV reporter, has written for USA Today, AOL Travel, the Dallas Morning News, Porthole Cruise Magazine, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Good Sam Club’s Highways and AAA’s Home & Away. Richard also wrote the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Philadelphia & the Pennsylvania Dutch Country.

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