Porthole Cruise and Travel, April 2024 by ppigroup

Fast Train to Ancient China

04.2024

Things to Remember Classic Keepsakes

Rotterdam’s Riversides Trips in Time and Tide

Dolomite Wines Fine and Fizzy

BONES OF GLACIER BAY A Whale’s Welcome

PLANNING THE BIG 1-0-0

Get four generations on board for a landmark birthday

Exceptional

Explora I

First of the fleet for Explora Journeys

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D i s c over m o re at msccr u ises .c o m

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DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF CRUISING WITH US 2 3 S H I P S | O V E R 2 5 0 D E S T I N AT I O N S On an MSC Cruise, beauty is everywhere. It’s in the thrill of sliding down a waterslide, the allure of top-notch entertainment, and the tranquility of quieter propellers gliding through the open sea. With 23 ships to choose from to over 250 destinations, including the Caribbean, Europe, and Ocean Cay, our private island marine reserve in The Bahamas, we invite you to explore these diverse wonders. Discover the beauty of cruising with MSC Cruises—for a greater beauty.

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The Art of Sparkle™ Exclusively at

Alaska • Amber Cove • Antigua • Aruba • Bahamas • Barbados • Belize • Bermuda • Cabo San Lucas Costa Maya • Cozumel • Curaçao • Grand Cayman • Grand Turk • Jamaica • Orlando • Puerto Vallar ta • Roatan San Juan • Sawgrass Mills • St. Kitts • St. Lucia • St. Maar ten • St. Thomas • Taino Bay • Tor tola

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Introducing The New Crown of Light® Fancy Shapes

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European beauty – Cunard style ®

Discover Europe’s breathtaking wonders on board the new Queen Anne.® Shimmering Norwegian fjords and picturesque British countryside. Icelandic waterfalls and lively Mediterranean cities. Be amazed by stunning scenes along Europe’s enticing shores as you sail on a ship that is modern yet timeless, with the White Star Service™ and elevated experiences you’ll only find on Cunard.®

Queen Anne render

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2024 Europe Voyages Roundtrip London

Iceland & British Isles 14 nights  Jul 14

Western Mediterranean 14 nights  Jul 28

Northern Europe & Scandinavia 10 nights  Aug 18

The Norwegian Fjords 7 nights  Sep 1 To view more voyages on Queen Anne, visit Cunard.com/QueenAnne © 2024 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Anne, and White Star Service are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Contact your Travel Advisor | Call (800) 728-6273 | Visit Cunard.com/Port

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

APRIL 2024

Portholes without Screens What’s better than watching travelers go and do things all over the world? Going and doing them yourself!

The new Style & Design department (on page 12) is all about personal keepsakes of fondly remembered travels, things that capture the feelings and flavors of a destination beyond what you see on an IG story. Terry Elward’s story on exploring Suzhou, China, as a stop on the Shanghai-to-Beijing train (on page 20) and Olly Beckett’s story on Rotterdam’s river-based attractions and history (on page 24) both go beyond first appearances and into the living legacies of these historic cities. Lisa Maloney’s feature on Snow, Alaska’s best-remembered humpback (on page 38), and Julie Guthmann’s guide to putting on a 100th birthday party for four generations of a sprawling family (on page 48) inspire us to experience cruises and popular ports in different ways. Even Judi Cuervo’s review of Explora I, the fantastic new ship from Explora Journeys, surprises us with the flavors of an incredible onboard experience (on page 30). Even the Good Vibes story by Elizabeth Warkentin (on page 56) is a temptation to visit Tasmania, where she got to know the famous Tasmanian devils personally, while helping them get along better in the world at the same time. There are so many stories out there waiting for you to discover them. I hope reading these here encourages you to go out and make some of your own! Fair seas and following winds,

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

I’VE BEEN THINKING A LOT ABOUT TRAVEL SHOWS LATELY. Of course, I love watching them — I’ve been in the travel business for a few decades now. I’ve also been making them. If you haven’t checked out The Porthole Cruise and Travel Show with GoTraveler, it’s here — www.gotraveler.com — and it’s great. But of course, the best part about it is remembering that I’ve been there. The shows and the magazines and all the other things I do are all about having been there and inspiring other people to go. This issue is all about that feeling.

See You on Social ! Facebook.com/CruiseTravelBP/ Instagram.com/cruisetravelBP/ Twitter.com/cruisetravelBP Tiktok.com/@PortholeCruiseandTravelBP YouTube.com/@CruiseandTravelBP Linkedin.com/company/porthole-cruise-magazine

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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CONTRIBUTORS

APRIL 2024

BILL PANOFF

Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

LINDA DOUTHAT

Assoc. Publisher/Creative Director

GRANT BALFOUR Managing Editor

SKIP ANDERSON Art Director

SARA LINDA Proofreader

Olly Beckett

Judi Julie Cuervo Guthmann

Steve Leland

Lisa Maloney

OLLY BECKETT, JUDI CUERVO, ALEX DARLINGTON, ROBIN GOLDSMITH, JULIE GUTHMANN, STEVE LELAND, LISA MALONEY, TERRY ELWARD, ELIZABETH WARKENTIN Contributing Writers

ALAMY, AWL IMAGES, OLLY BECKETT, TERRY ELWARD, ESTOCK PHOTO, JULIE GUTHMANN Contributing Photographers

SALES OFFICES

Olly began his career working in the cruise industry and now writes for various publications about his experiences traveling through 85 countries and all seven continents by any means possible – trains or planes, bus or bike, cruise or camel.

Judi began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular cruise and ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications.

Julie is an experienced freelance writer and editor living in New Jersey. Her diverse background includes travel, real estate, healthcare, insurance, and other industries. When she’s not cruising in the Caribbean, she spends her time strolling along the beach and boardwalk at the Jersey Shore, going to Broadway musicals, and reading novels.

A former cruise director, Steve has been cruising the world for the past 40 years. He continues to spin the globe searching for offthe-grid cruise adventures, bringing unplugged destinations to share with Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine readers and opening new frontiers in luxury travel by sea.

Lisa is a freelance writer and longtime resident of Anchorage, Alaska. She’s the author of three travel and outdoors guidebooks, including the award-winning “Moon Alaska.” She also served as senior editor at Alaska magazine and founded cometoalaska. net.

Corporate HQ/PPI Group 1500 West Cypress Creek Road Suite 403 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 (954) 377-7777 Email: sales@ppigroup.com

WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President

STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing

BILL PANOFF CEO/Chairman WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF Chief Operating Officer PIERO VITALE Chief Financial Officer LINDA DOUTHAT SVP, Publishing STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing SOREN DOMLESKY Director of Technology

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APRIL 2024 ISSUE 250 Cover image: Explora I

Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2024 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 To make address changes or ask questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com. All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Pacific time; email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year digital subscription (6 issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax.

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THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS. Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you could ever ask for.

J O H N

C R O I X

T H O M A S

VISITUSVI.COM

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CONTENTS APRIL 2024

38 Snow’s Bones

Centennial Family Cruise

The first ship from Explora Journeys invites one to enjoy a different sort of cruising.

Lessons learned from a 70,000-pound humpback whale.

How one multigenerational gathering came together beautifully on board.

by Judi Cuervo

by Lisa Maloney

by Julie Guthmann

Day @ Sea Explora I

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Greece 64 06 Publisher’s Letter 08 Contributors PLANET PLAYGROUND

12 Style & Design Personal Souvenirs 16 Wine & Dine Ferrari Trento creates world-class wine in a world-class setting. by Robin Goldsmith

20 Roads & Rails Discovering China on the Shanghai Train by Terry Elward

24 Shore Leave Rotterdam takes pride in being wet and wonderful. by Olly Beckett

Left: Matthew Knutson - stock.adobe.com Clockwise from top left: runrun2 - stock.adobe.com, BlueOrange Studio - stock.adobe.com, Sandra van der Steen - stock.adobe.com, Karol Kozlowski/ AWL Images Ltd, Marius Beck Dahle/Werksted/Havila Voyages, OlegD - stock.adobe.com

Good Vibes 54

BEST LIFE

54 Good Vibes: News Here’s how travel is building

a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington

56 Good Vibes: Tasmania

The Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary is helping save Tasmanian devils and other endangered wildlife. by Elizabeth Warkentin

61 Set-Jetting

What film shot in this life-changing location ?

64 Leland & Sea

Steve sails the Peloponnese Islands on Elixir Cruises by Steve Leland

68 #CruiseForGood

Citizen Science Diving, Cayman Islands

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STYLE & DESIGN

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Personal Souvenirs Remember the best of the journey with keepsakes that go beyond the “been-there” and into the “I could never forget you.” Travel is romance.

DadoPhotos - stock.adobe.com

Places are not people, but they do have personalities … and in some cases, can cast a spell over a visitor that’s as undeniable as it is unique. Parting is such sweet sorrow, whether it’s a person you’ve fallen for or a place. Here’s something to remember them by.

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find

NEW HORIZONS In St. Kitts, 18 miles of mountain ranges and pristine golden shores inspire a more natural adrenaline rush. Each corner of the island offers something new to discover—invigorating hikes and black sand beaches in the north, catamaran cruises and snorkeling expeditions along the shore in the south—with adventure lying in all directions, for those brave enough to find it.

VISITSTKITTS.COM

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STYLE & DESIGN

1. CUISINE - Caribbean The Dominican Kitchen by Vanessa Mota Maybe you can’t take the food back home, but you can relive the flavor with the right cookbook. For the tostones, tres golpes, and chofán of the sunny Dominican Republic, this one’s got what it takes.

2. HOME DECORScandinavia Sprinkle a bit of Nordic design over your next smorgasbord with the Vipp Salt and Pepper Mill. Crafted with hard-wearing ceramic grinders under the practical rotary heads inside the solid steel body, these were engineered to mimic the sturdy sound of a Franz Jäger safe.

3. BRACELET - Global The world-wandering jewelers at Jet-Set Candy have hit on a subtly stylish way to carry your adventures with you. They’ve designed over 200 Passport Stamp Charms to let you wear where you’re going and look back at where you’ve been in sterling silver or solid gold.

4. ORIGAMI PAPER Japan For those of us polishing the precision of our folds, washi-grade paper is prized for its thick, silky texture and near-translucent colors. Awagami’s Mingei Japanese Folk-Art Papers are made from mulberry, hemp, and gampi hand-pressed in a traditional mill in Tokushima, Japan.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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5. MURANO GLASS Italy

Watery Venice gives the world the liquid art of Murano glasswork, shaped by heat and master artisans into splashes of color. The best way to obtain it is to wander the island, investigating the many makers plying their centuries-old art. Barring that, numerous outlets offer the good stuff internationally… just look for the Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark that guarantees its quality as the world’s best.

7. BIRCH SYRUP Alaska What maples sweeten in Canada and New England, the birch sweetens in Alaska. Flavors vary across the Great Land, so it can be worthwhile to pick up a sample at each port. In Talkeetna, between Anchorage and Denali, you’ll find Kahiltna Birchworks, the world’s largest producer.

6. TEQUILA Mexico Viva Mexico, and viva the blue agave that gives us such good spirits! Lately, fine tequila has climbed up to the very top shelf of premium liquors, and Clase Azul has made some of the best. Their Tequila Plata is best enjoyed neat, bringing notes of green tea, lemongrass, fresh mint, and vanilla — no mixer required.

8. SPICES - India

The all-purpose seasoning of South Asia is garam masala, “hot spices,” made thousands of different ways but usually containing cinnamon, cardamom, clove, black pepper, anise, cumin, and coriander. The best way to capture the warm flavor is to roast your own whole spices. Second best: Try Indian-made blends like Mahashian Di Hatti Garam Masala. Let the aroma take you back.

photo credits: 1. Mr. Bolota - stock.adobe.com, gfdunt - stock.adobe.com, mydominicankitchen.com 2. Christian B // Yellows Collective/ vipp.com 3. jetsetcandy.com 4. runrun2 - stock.adobe.com 5. 8H - stock.adobe.com 6. claseazul.com (x2) 7. Eugene - stock.adobe.com 8. WavebreakMediaMicro - stock.adobe.com

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WINE & DINE

Beauty and the Bottle Perched among the Italian Lakes, Ferrari Trento creates world-class wine in a world-class setting.

Left: Ferarri Trento Right top to bottom: Ferarri Trento, Flaviu Boerescu - stock.adobe.com, Ferarri Trento, fottoo - stock.adobe.com, Locanda Margon

by Robin Goldsmith

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Left: Ferarri Trento Right top to bottom: Ferarri Trento, Flaviu Boerescu - stock.adobe.com, Ferarri Trento, fottoo - stock.adobe.com, Locanda Margon

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Lake Garda

Villa and Vineyards

The Italian Lakes are among the most beautiful and popular places to visit in Europe. The glory of nature lies all around with glistening waters, picturesque lakeside villages, medieval castles and imposing mountain views. Stretching from the River Po in the south to the lower Alps and the Dolomites to the north, the five major lakes exude their own distinctive charm and jaw-dropping scenery.

Wine-loving tourists can choose between five different cellar tour options, starting from €22 ($24). These include a visit to the winery, followed by a tasting. The Renaissance Tour (€150, $164) allows you to try the Lunelli family’s wines in the beautiful sixteenth-century Villa Margon, on the right bank of the River Adige southwest of Trento, where the Lunellis planted a 12-hectare vineyard 10 years ago. The villa is an ideal spot to enjoy a full Ferrari experience. It’s a unique place with history, beauty, and art combined, including original and untouched frescos dating back to the 1550s. After visiting the winery in Trento, the villa and vineyards are only a short drive away. Then fine dining with carefully matched wines at one-starred Michelin restaurant Locanda Margon will complete a memorable day. “The restaurant is part of the experience of those coming to visit us”, says Matteo Lunelli. “It’s like a laboratory for pairing Ferrari and food. One of the characteristics of Trentodoc [sparkling wines] is that they are very food-friendly and flexible with pairings.” A combined winery tour with a lunch or dinner package at Locanda Margon and the option of visiting Villa Margon costs from €85 to €280 ($93 to $307). The restaurant wine list unsurprisingly centers on Ferrari Trento, but has other labels too, including some individual, now-rare bottles that Bruno Lunelli had bought for his wine shop in the 1970s. Apart from these and other old vintages, you can order by the glass.

Yet there’s beauty in the bottle too, as the region boasts many wonderful wines from world class vineyards with historic names. Some of the most famous come from around Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake and home to the northernmost Mediterranean climate in Europe. However, venture north to the Trentino region, past the resort town of Riva del Garda, and you’ll find yourself in the Dolomites, a mountain range and UNESCO World Heritage site. It is here, amid the stunning alpine landscape, that arguably Italy’s finest fizz is made as Trentodoc.

Meet the Makers One of the most famous producers is Ferrari Trento, founded in 1902 by visionary entrepreneur, Giulio Ferrari. With no children, he decided in 1952 to sell his company to Bruno Lunelli, owner of a local wine shop which stocked his wine. Lunelli took on Ferrari's vision and grew the business, eventually handing it over to his sons. Today, the president and CEO is Matteo Lunelli, third generation of the family and equally determined to maintain Ferrari's position as an iconic, international-award-winning sparkling wine brand. Although completely unrelated to the similarly-named, famous automotive brand, Ferrari Trento has been sponsoring Formula One since 2021. They even produce a limited edition blanc de blancs, celebrating some of the most iconic Grands Prix in the FIA Formula One World Championship! The company is also committed to reducing environmental impact by an ongoing series of initiatives. All their own vineyards are organic and growers (around 700 of them) are encouraged to follow sustainable practices.

Fine dining with carefully matched wines at one-starred Michelin restaurant Locanda Margon will complete a memorable day.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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WINE & DINE

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Ferrari Brut NV is the historic wine of Ferrari Trento, made from hand-picked chardonnay grapes.

In addition to special editions, there are six collections of sparkling wines, all made by the traditional method, with each wine remaining in bottle for between two and 10 years before release. Ferrari Brut NV is the historic wine of Ferrari Trento, made from handpicked chardonnay grapes. Fresh and floral, it's beautifully balanced with peach, citrus, apple and bread crust notes. The attractively salmon-pink Ferrari Brut Rosé NV, made from a premium blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, is refreshing and elegant, with fragrant tones of wild strawberry, redcurrant, sour cherry and almond. Both these dry wines, widely available in the US, are perfect for drinking on their own, or with seafood and other light dishes. For pure indulgence, the top of the range Giulio Ferrari Riserva Del Fondatore and its rosé counterpart are deliciously vibrant, with complex flavors that remain on the palate long after the last drop has been enjoyed! Made only in the best vintages, these wines will grace dining at its very finest. The 4-star Grand Hotel Trento, located in the historic town center, is a great place to stay and plan your vinous holiday. Ferrari Trento also has partnerships with Italian cruise companies MSC and Costa Crociere, including a branded bar in two of the latter's most prestigious ships, Costa Toscana and Costa Smeralda. Trentodoc may not be the best known of sparkling wine appellations, but this jewel of the Italian Alps deserves to be discovered by more people. The unique wines have Italian identity and soul and Ferrari Trento stands out as a world-class brand with strong appeal for wine-and-dine loving tourists visiting this picturesque part of Italy.

Ferarri Trento (x3)

A Wealth of Wines

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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ROADS & RAILS

Discovering China on the Shanghai Train Riding high-speed from Beijing to Shanghai, in a flash you can experience a stately, older world.

Left: Martin Bremer/Wirestock Creators - stock.adobe.com Right top to bottom: Antje - stock.adobe.com, Terry Elward , Sen - stock.adobe.com

by Terry Elward

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

Left: Martin Bremer/Wirestock Creators - stock.adobe.com Right top to bottom: Antje - stock.adobe.com, Terry Elward , Sen - stock.adobe.com

here’s no better way to travel from Beijing to Shanghai than on the tracks. China is home to the world’s longest highspeed rail network, with a length of over 42,000 kilometers (26,098 miles). The Chinese rail network gives travelers a rare opportunity to see parts of China and aspects of daily life that you don’t see within the major cities. (Shanghai even boasts the world's first commercial high-speed maglev, the SMT, which levitates on a magnetic field above its special rails.) These trains are efficient indeed: The direct train from Beijing South Station to Shanghai Hongqiao Station is a speedy trip of less than four hours. En route, you have a chance to see parts of China that are completely off the tourist trail: young soldiers with their lunchboxes, local sellers of fruit and small electronic goods, people coming home from the market with a duck for dinner, and even local travelers with the entire family in

Suzhou in Jiangsu province is a large and developed city that has preserved its ancient gardens and canalside buildings, giving us a glimpse into life in China hundreds of years ago. The old part of the city, a network of interconnected waterways, is small and can be explored within a few hours. The area can be covered in 3 kilometers (1.9 miles), and pedicabs and taxis abound if you don’t fancy a long walk. The old stone buildings along the canals and the remains of the ancient city wall (built in the 6th century BCE) are popular photo spots with locals and tourists alike. You can see them at their best from the water, so take a boat ride from Guyunhe Travel Terminal

Suzhou canals

You can see them at their best from the water, so take a boat ride. matching outfits. The landscape changes markedly throughout the journey — from frosty Northern China to the humid, subtropical climate around Shanghai. There’s a lot of agriculture and greenery as well as large cities that are often completely unknown to foreigners outside of China. Chinese

intercity trains are comfortable, sleek, and affordable with room for a full-sized suitcase on the overhead shelf. They do retain one more traditional aspect of Chinese rail travel: old-fashioned buffet cars with lace seat covers and a delicate orchid stem in a vase on each table. The buffet car is always quite busy: This is where travelers socialize and indulge in cans of local beer on the journey. They serve reheated Chinesestyle meals in plastic trays that are expensive by Chinese standards but taste good enough. You can take them back to your seat if the buffet car is too crowded or noisy. Bring your own snacks for the journey and cash (in RMB or yuan, the local currency) for a main course or drinks. The most delightful aspect of the train from Beijing to Shanghai is the chance to stop in the remarkable canal city of Suzhou on the way. To the west of Shanghai,

Classical Gardens of Suzhou

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

Soldiers with lunchboxes

You have a chance to see parts of China that are completely off the tourist trail: young soldiers with their lunchboxes, local sellers of fruit and small electronic goods, people coming home from the market with a duck for dinner, and even local travelers with the entire family in matching outfits. Maglev train in Shanghai

Traditional parasol

High-speed train

down the Grand Canal, a trip which costs about 120 RMB (under $17 USD) The boat trip is scenic both by day or night. You’ll pass several ancient city gates, the Ming Dynasty–era Shantang Street, stone bridges, magnificent gardens, and local restaurants along the waterfront. After your boat ride, stop at one of the restaurants; there are local specialties at Pin Von Teahouse, a 130-year old establishment at 94 Pingjiang Road. Apart from excellent tea, the restaurant serves delicious shrimp dumplings and other dim sum–style treats with crab and meat fillings. The Classical Gardens of Suzhou are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and worth a visit on foot, as is the Suzhou Silk Museum, which sells unique, high-quality, luminous silk clothing and gifts. The museum even sells silkTraditional Chinese umbrella based exotic beauty products such as silkworm cocoons for skin exfoliation. After a few hours in Suzhou, you’ll be able to board the next train to Shanghai. The service is regular and reliable. One note about long distance train travel in China: However comfortable you get in your seat, be ready to disembark fast, with your bags prepped 10 minutes before the train is scheduled to arrive. The train only stays at the stations for a few minutes. You’ll have to push your way out with all the other passengers and their luggage in the tiny window of time that the train is on the platform before the embarking travelers squeeze their way onto the train. It’s not unheard of for people to miss their stops completely due to the chaos of alighting the trains, so be prepared. The Chinese railways even have uniformed staff to help you shove your way through the crowds, something of a tradition on Chinese trains. Once you’re off, you’re ready to explore a new city at in your leisure. Ancient Pagoda Suzhou Gardens

Top to bottom: Terry Elward, Arnet Xavier - stock.adobe.com, topntp - stock.adobe.com, Brian Kinney - stock.adobe.com

ROADS & RAILS

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Available at Diamonds International, Tanzanite International and Luxury of Time DiamondsInternational.com

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SHORE LEAVE

PLANET PLAYGROUND

The City of Waters Rotterdam takes pride in being wet and wonderful.

Left: Andrea Armellin / Sime / eStock Photo Right clockwise: Karol Kozlowski/ AWL Images Ltd, dbrnjhrj - stock.adobe.com, FENIX museum, Olly Beckett, doganmesut - stock.adobe.com

by Olly Beckett

Erasmus Bridge

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Cube-shaped houses that look as though dozens of dice are about to settle on a decision....

Markthal

Left: Andrea Armellin / Sime / eStock Photo Right clockwise: Karol Kozlowski/ AWL Images Ltd, dbrnjhrj - stock.adobe.com, FENIX museum, Olly Beckett, doganmesut - stock.adobe.com

Wikkelboat

FENIX museum

N ROTTERDAM, WATER IS EVERYWHERE. With the Maas River draining to the sea and the Rhine running from inland Europe, 23 percent of this Dutch city is water. For centuries, inhabitants have learned to tame it and turn it to their advantage. Here, you’ll find Europe’s largest seaport, although it’s slowly moving further toward the sea, leaving behind opportunities in the form of abandoned warehouses and empty shorelines. And, oh boy, is the city doing something interesting with those shorelines.

ARRIVALS AND DEPARTURES Rotterdam is one of those rare ports where you can arrive via either ocean or river, with riverboat and cruise ship berths in the city center. Just behind where the likes of Royal Caribbean and MSC Cruises dock is the Rijnhaven, once one of the city’s oldest dockyards, now transformed by waterside wonders including wikkelboat onwater accommodation, craft breweries, and floating offices. There’s more yet to come:

In the next few years there’ll also be an urban park and a beach. (As part of Rotterdam’s transformation, the water itself has, over the years, been cleaned.) Also beside the ocean cruise terminal, but recalling the past rather than looking to the future, is the old Holland America Line headquarters. Built in 1901 in an Art Nouveau style known as Jugendstil, this grand building has, since 1993, housed Hotel New York, the opulent restaurants and bars of which offer a tempting

Rotterdam is one of those rare ports where you can arrive via either ocean or river.

menu. Quite the contrast to the experiences of emigrants who passed through here on their way to the Americas! In total, around 2 million people departed from Rotterdam between 1880 and 1920, seeking escape from Europe’s troubles and a better life across the Atlantic. Cruisers arriving in the city next year will get to visit the new FENIX museum which is dedicated to migration and offers: “Stories about love and goodbyes. About searching for identity or finding happiness,” according to

its promotional material. In person, the museum creates personal connections with stories of immigration. “One of the objects on display is a bald-eagle money jar from the USA that once belonged to an Irish emigrant,” says head of exhibitions Hanneke Mantel. She’s part of a team who found 2,000 suitcases from around the world that had been used by emigrants passing through or to Rotterdam. “With the suitcases, we are building a huge maze in the museum,” Hanneke adds.

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ART AND ADVENTURE Across the water, located next to elegant Museum Park, is a recent opening: Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen (“the Depot”). It’s an eye-catching, bowlshaped building entirely covered in mirrored glass. Inside is a hollow space criss-crossed by glass walkways, escalators, and elevator shafts. The Depot is so named thanks to its primary function as a storage facility for 154,000 works of art. However, what makes this building so wonderful is that, unlike galleries where most art is often stored away and very rarely seen, the Depot is designed to display its entire collection. The lofty view from

PLANET PLAYGROUND

the roof terrace is included in the €20 ($21.75) entry fee. Back to the water and time for something more active. Frustrated at having to travel great distances to catch a decent wave, surfer Edwin van Viegen decided to do something radical. Many years later his vision is almost complete: This spring, the RiF010

The Depot

The Depot is so named thanks to its primary function as a storage facility for 154,000 works of art.

surf venue opens in the Steigersgracht Canal. Water will be filtered and pumped into the canal (which has already had centuries of grime cleaned out of it), and pneumatically generated waves, powered by wind and solar power, will rise to 1.5 meters (5 feet) and carry surfers for 8 to 9 seconds through the middle of the city and past a surf shack. It’ll cost between €25 and €55 ($27.20 and $59.87) for 55 minutes in the water, depending on which waves you want to ride. Wetsuits and boards are available to rent. Minutes from RiF010 is the architecturally spectacular Markthal. Beneath its curved roof is

a feast of colorful food stalls. Another architectural wonder can be found on the other side of Binnenrotte Square: cube-shaped houses that look as though dozens of dice are about to settle on a decision. The cube houses back onto Oudehaven, or Old Harbor, where several terraces offer a serene spot for enjoying a drink while watching small boats sail to and fro. Not far from here is the spot where the river cruises dock.

A PAST AND FUTURE RIVER

Dating to the 1300s, Delfshaven is Rotterdam’s true historic heart. Picturesque buildings are reflected in still waters and

there’s an old windmill to satisfy shutterbugs. People have worshiped at Delfshaven’s Pelgrimsvaderkerk since 1416, including the Pilgrim Fathers (after whom the church is named) who fled to America in 1620. End your day by looking forward in Keilehaven, just a 6-minute taxi ride from Delfshaven. Aiming to reconnect people with the water, and embracing the rising waterlines that come with climate change, the innovative Keilehaven Tidal Park turns an old industrial area into an ecological wonderland, where people and other animals can enjoy the water … no matter how high it gets.

Olly Beckett

SHORE LEAVE

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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@jamaicacruising -----------

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A new travel series hosted by Bill Panoff. Streaming now, on

Unlimited FREE access to GoTraveler is available on connected TVs including: Samsung, Vizio, Philips, TCL, Hisense, JVC, Hitachi, Sony, LG, Toshiba, and Sharp. Downloads, for these devices: Roku devices here Apple TV here Google and Android TV here Amazon Fire TV here iPhone and iPad here Android phones and tablets here

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Hosted by Bill Panoff

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Left: Explora Journeys

Right: Judi Cuervo

D AY @ SEA

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LUXURY...

WITH A TWIST! The first ship from Explora Journeys invites one to enjoy a different sort of cruising. By Judi Cuervo 31

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xplora I’s Lobby Bar soars midship from Decks 4 to 5 but it doesn’t call to mind the traditional cruise ship atrium with its riotous activity and zooming glass elevators. This inviting space, the social heart of Explora Journeys’ first ship, is part living room, with plush seating and cocktail tables, and part sophisticated cocktail lounge. Its collection of libations is displayed artfully against a backlit grid, bottles alternating with sculptures and objets d’art. I could just as easily be sipping my flute of Moet & Chandon in the elaborate lobby of a Ritz Carlton as aboard a ship sailing from New York City to Quebec.

The shopping arcade that surrounds The Lobby Bar is another surprise, with outposts of luxury shops like Rolex, Cartier, Piaget, Panerai, and The Journey, a series of “variety” stores that feature some of the world’s most prestigious products. Unlike most cruise ships, you won’t find sundries here, nor racks of souvenir t-shirts and hoodies, or a display of Pringles. I’ll admit it. When I boarded the recently launched Explora I, I was most excited that a nearly-$500 Dyson Supersonic hairdryer was standard in every suite. No matter what this 14-deck, 63,900 grt, 922-passenger ship held, at least my hair would look fabulous. What I discovered, however, is a new approach to luxury cruising with many of its most impressive features drawn not from the line’s ocean-going competitors, but from posh hotels and resorts around the world.

A new approach to luxury cruising with many of its most impressive features drawn not from the line’s ocean-going competitors, but from posh hotels and resorts around the world....

A S E A H OT E L

Explora I’s accommodations are among the largest at sea, ranging from the 377-square-foot Ocean Suite to the jaw-dropping 3,014-square-foot Ocean Residence. A welcome bottle of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Champagne awaits Ocean Suite guests while those who occupy an Ocean Penthouse will find Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2015, and Ocean Residence or Owner’s Residence guests score a bottle of Dom Perignon Vintage 2013. In every category, however, luxury abounds with private sun terrace (with day bed), dining area, luxury Frette linens and bathrobes, marble bathroom with heated floor, a stocked minibar, Illy espresso machine, and a walk-in wardrobe with seated vanity that, in its top drawer, holds that spectacular Dyson hairdryer! Handy wireless charging stations are located bedside and smart TVs include an infotainment system and on-demand option.

Explora Journeys (x3)

Explora I is the first of six newbuilds planned by Explora Journeys, a Geneva, Switzerland-based high-end line from familyowned MSC Cruises. She may have been constructed at the cruiseship crazy Fincantieri shipyard in Italy, but her composition is the brainchild of some of the world’s foremost superyacht and luxuryhospitality masters. The result is home-like comfort and effortless elegance throughout. A subdued color palette is interrupted only by the occasional and unexpected design element: a massive swirl of crystal hovering above a staircase or British-Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare’s extraordinary art installation, a multi-shelf series of books, bound in brilliant, kaleidoscopic, Dutch-African wax-batik cloth.

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Explora Journeys (x3)

Conservatory

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Ocean Residence

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C O N T I N E N TA L F L A I R

Steinway & Sons piano

Accommodations are among the largest at sea, ranging from the 377-square-foot Ocean Suite to the jaw-dropping 3,014-square-foot Ocean Residence.

Explora I touts a “European” style of cruising. Some aspects of this — understated elegance, a commitment to sustainability, a special appreciation for family travel with The Nautilus Club for guests aged 6-16 as well as a number of adjoining family suites, and even the offer of heated milk in coffee — delighted this veteran American cruiser. Other aspects — onboard prices quoted in euros, and a daily program which lists events by a 24-hour clock rather than a.m. and p.m. — were not as appreciated. Speak to crew members — “hosts” they’re referred to aboard Explora Journeys — and you’ll discover that few, if any, possess previous onboard experience, with stints at luxury hotels around the world filling their resumes. And while service is exceptional, honed through Explora Journey’s partnership with the world- renowned Geneva- and Singapore-based EHL Hospitality Business School, some are still trying to find their sea legs!

Explora Journeys (x4)

Explora I’s comparison to a luxury resort rather than a cruise ship is most evident in what the ship doesn’t offer— production shows, for instance. Entertainment is subdued, with music provided more as backdrop at many of the ship’s 12 bars and lounges, much of it focused on the “artistes” who perform on one of the many Steinway & Sons pianos scattered throughout the ship, a guitarist tackling acoustic pop and late-night DJ dance parties. Interesting — and unexpected — lectures fill days at sea: On our sailing, actor, film and television director Willie Aames took us through how to write a screenplay.

Ocean Residence private deck

Ocean Residence dining room

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In terms of onboard dining, however, Anthology is in a class by itself. This is the first restaurant at sea to feature Michelin-starred chefs taking the helm in terms of menu and technique and personally training Explora I’s sous chef both on board and on site at his or her restaurant ashore. At the time of my sailing, Michelin two-star chef Emma Bengtsson, of New York City’s widely-acclaimed Aquavit, presented a magical seven-course tasting menu. In March, Bengtsson is replaced by Claude Le Tohic of the Michelin-starred One65 in San Francisco. The luxury of Anthology doesn’t come cheap though: Cost per person is approximately $200 plus $75 per person with fine wines — it is the only onboard dining venue to which a fee applies. In fact, the entire Explora I experience is largely an all-inclusive one, with all beverages (including wines, beers, premium spirits and specialty coffees), gratuities, and Wi-Fi included in fares. Aboard Explora I, luxury travelers will find both the expected and the unexpected. Shoot some pool at the table at The Astern Lounge, work out al fresco (or indoors, if you prefer) at the Ocean Wellness Spa, try your luck at the small casino, relax in any weather at the large swimming pool protected by its retractable roof, or destress while immersed in one of Explora I’s innovative infinity whirlpools.

DINING AND DIFFERENCES

Michelin two-star chef Emma Bengtsson, of New York City’s widely-acclaimed Aquavit, presented a magical sevencourse tasting menu.

Explora I is a welcome addition to the luxury cruise category, a stunning combination of luxury hotel, megayacht, and cruise ship. Aboard her, you’ll find outstanding aspects of all three.

. Explora Journeys (x5)

Instead of a main dining room, you’ll find specialty venues including, at no additional charge, the PanAsian Sakura, the European steakhouse Marble & Co. Grill, the Mediterranean flavors of Med Yacht Club, the French-inspired Fil Rouge, and Emporium Marketplace, an all-day dining venue that eschews the traditional buffet in favor of a series of live cooking stations. (Interestingly, while most of the ship’s “hosts” have not worked on ships before, its culinary staff have … including Head of Culinary Franck Garanger, who has served aboard ships of foodcentric Silversea Cruises and Oceania Cruises.)

Chef Franck Garanger

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Anthology

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Snow’s Bones LESSONS LEARNED FROM A 70,000-POUND HUMPBACK WHALE By Lisa Maloney

he waters of Glacier Bay National Park practically boil with life in the summer: Sail here, and you're likely to see bears turning shoreline rocks over for food or vanishing into the trees; shaggy mountain goats climbing along impossibly steep slopes; and humpback whales breaching, diving, and slapping the water in fits of... well, we don't know exactly why they do it, but it's hard not to see some of those behaviors as outright playfulness and joy. Although there's a lot we still don't understand about humpback whales, some of our best lessons about them have come from these very waters. And one of the most compelling whale stories actually resides on land.

Left: Svetlana - stock.adobe.com Right: NPS, Michael S. Nolan / Alamy Stock Photo

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CAUGHT IN MID-STROKE If you've come on a big cruise ship, you won't get to go ashore in the park. Megaships are just too big to dock, and the park's infrastructure too limited to support mass visits by tender. But if you come on a small ship that does dock in Bartlett Cove (the epicenter of human land activity in the park) —or if you've become so enchanted by Glacier Bay that you come back to sample the landlubber's life — you'll get to see one of the park's greatest teachers: Snow, the skeleton of a 45 1/2-footlong humpback whale who got her name due to the distinctive, snowy-white coloring of her tail flukes. It might sound macabre to describe Snow as an X-ray vision of her former self, but her skeleton is truly beautiful, forever poised in mid-stroke as she now swims through air instead of water, just a short walk from the docks. A life-sized shadow of her magnificent tail (which was made of cartilage and thus left no bones to display) is etched in stones and shells along the floor of her open-air pavilion, and the long, tapering bones of her skull and the airy "fingers" in each of her fins are longer than a grown human is tall. A pressure washer was used to remove superficial oil and dirt

This year marks the 10th anniversary of Snow's exhibit opening in Bartlett Cove, where she is much more than "just" an educational display. Wire mesh deterred small rodents while bones received some natural bleaching from the sun.

Left : NPS (x3) Right top to bottom: Skip Anderson, Matthew Knutson - stock.adobe.co, NPS

"She's aweinspiring,"affirmed Christine Gabriele, whale biologist at the Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve Humpback Whale Monitoring Program. "You get to that giant skeleton and you're filled with questions like, wow, is it a dinosaur? It sort of looks like a bird. How come it doesn't have a tail?"

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Fuel Dock

Beach Trail

Public Dock

Forest Trail

A life-sized shadow of her magnificent tail is etched in stones and shells along the floor of her open-air pavilion.

Whale Exhibit

Boardwalk

Glacier Bay Lodge and Visitor Center

BARTLETT COVE

Bartlett Cove

Tlingit Trail

Park Road

Park Headquarters

TEN YEARS OF SNOW In 2001, Snow was tragically struck and killed by a cruise ship leaving Glacier Bay. Some of the resulting legal settlement went toward funding her exhibit, which opened in 2014 after 13 years of hard work by park staff, volunteers, and expert contractors from a company called Whales & Nails. Together, they patiently cleaned the bones — hard, dirty work that involved soaking them in seawater, heating them, pressure-washing them, and even burying them in compost to help remove their natural oils — before sending them to the Whales & Nails workshop, where they were further cleaned and repaired, and received fabricated or scavenged replacements for a few that had gone missing. This year marks the 10th anniversary of Snow's exhibit opening in Bartlett Cove, where she is much more than "just" an educational display. Consider, for example, that she helped resolve a controversy about how a humpback's lifespan correlates to the rings of waxy buildup that accumulate inside their ears. Because Snow had a long history of documented sightings — she was first seen in Glacier Bay in the 1970s — scientists could compare that record to her waxy ear plugs and determine that she was 45 years old when she died, and humpback whales can live to be around 90 years — about the same as a human lifespan.

Left : NPS (x3) Right top to bottom: Skip Anderson, Matthew Knutson - stock.adobe.co, NPS

"I think that learning about Snow's lifespan is one thing that allows people to relate to her more," said Gabriele. "When they go out on Glacier Bay, I like to think that folks realize, 'Hey, that whale over there may be about the same age as I am. I'm a guest in their home.'" Snow's tragic death was also a wakeup call that prompted some of the very precautions cruise ships now take to avoid another collision. For example, your ship's crew now collaborates with park biologists to generate a map of where whales are in real time — which in turn dictates when the crew should take proactive steps for the sake of the whales, such as posting extra lookouts or slowing down. "I think this is a real success story, because we are working together and we have the same goal: to keep the whales safe and bring passengers in to see the park," Gabriele said.

A fluke photo from the final sighting of Snow, or Whale 68, June 26, 2001 41

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Alexey Suloev - stock.adobe.com

Humpback whales can live to be around 90 years — about the same as a human lifespan.

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WHAT GOOD MAY COME In one sense, Snow's presence in Bartlett Cove is as natural as breathing. Humpback whales are so intrinsically a part of this place that they’re depicted on an ancestral crest of the Raven clan of the Huna Lingít people, whose home is here in Glacier Bay.

Left to to bottom: cherwoman730 - stock.adobe.com, NPS Right top to bottom: Credit: Kevin Galvin / Alamy Stock Photo, NPS

But Snow is also a star of sorts, drawing visitors from around the world. Gabriele still remembers a little boy dashing in front of his parents, running toward Snow as Gabriele and a coworker were cleaning the bones. "He sees the whale skeleton and he just stops in his tracks and yells at the top of his lungs, 'Mom, I found the WHALE!'" Gabriele recalled. "We were so impressed with his exuberance. I think a lot of adults are that excited too, but they aren't as free to shout about it." Some of the park's visitors are a little more blasé about Snow's magnificent self: "I herded bears right by her many times," said Christopher Behnke, who was a NPS wildlife biological technician in Bartlett Cove when Snow's display first opened. "They ignored the skeleton, which is by and large at bear-face height and unfenced." It's probably a relief for everybody — park staff, visitors, and the bears included — that there are more delicious things around to be eaten. But for us human visitors, Snow remains a beacon of interest and reflection, a chance to consider the whales' resilience and fragility as they navigate lives as long as ours, in an environment that is totally foreign to us — and at the same time, only one breath away.

Humpback whales are so intrinsically a part of this place that they’re depicted on an ancestral crest of the Raven clan of the Huna Lingít people. 44

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Left to to bottom: cherwoman730 - stock.adobe.com, NPS Right top to bottom: Credit: Kevin Galvin / Alamy Stock Photo, NPS

The airy “fingers” in each of her fins are longer than a grown human is tall.

SNOW BY THE NUMBERS Number of bones: 161 Length: 45.5 feet Weight in life: 70,000 lbs. Skeletal Weight: 3,729 lbs. Hours spent cleaning and preparing the bones: 1,000+ Miles traveled by migrating humpback whales each year: Up to 10,000 Average lifetime for a humpback whale: 60 years Oldest known humpback whale: 96 years Snow's age at death: 45 years

WANT TO HELP? You can help scientists piece together the puzzle of humpback whales' migration by taking photos of humpback whale flukes that you spot from your ship, then sending those in to Happywhale.com. Those flukes are as unique as a fingerprint, allowing scientists to identify individual whales — and you can receive email updates on "your" whales' travels around the world. You can also contribute real-time observations on the whales' location through the Whale Alert mobile app. You don't need to have clear pictures of the whales, although it's great if you do. Any sightings you add to the app will help refine real-time maps of the whales' distribution and reduce the risk of a collision.

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INTIMATE YACHTING EXPEDITIONS™ On Atlas Ocean Voyages Polar Expeditions ... • Second Guest Sails FREE + • FREE Private Jet Service • FREE Cultural Immersion • FREE Zodiac Safaris

ear-round expeditions are curated for spirited explorers, led by expert expedition guides, and enhanced by a genuine, caring crew who

share the same passion for exploration. Immersive adventures into Greenland’s traditions in small villages and opportunities to witness the king of the high Arctic of Svalbard, the polar bear, are just a few possibilities aboard Polar Expeditions by Atlas™. Then, returning to a relaxed, après-expedition ambience on board, new friends can savor the moments together.

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Explore the World Together

Aboard Atlas’ intimate yachts, guests will experience the sensation of exploring beyond the boundaries as they embark on an exhilarating polar expedition together. They will encounter up-close moments with natural wonders, discovering incredible wildlife and landscapes of the high Arctic of Svalbard and Greenland. The adventure of a lifetime awaits, and it all happens in good company with fewer than 200 fellow explorers.

Exploring the High Arctic of Svalbard

Crossing into the Arctic Circle to reach Svalbard, Norway, explorers come to one of the most unexplored regions of the world, guided by an expert expedition team on shore landings and Zodiac safaris. The yacht’s captain navigates remote, hidden landings to find the best spots for wildlife viewing and exploration. Touching down on pebbled shores, adventurous spirits can keep an eye out for reindeer grazing on lush tundra vegetation or newly born Arctic fox litters in their soft, brown fur. The king of the Arctic, the polar bear, may even grace the expedition with an appearance. In the water, seals, whales, walruses, and many more marine creatures thrive and make their presence known. Every Arctic expedition that starts in Longyearbyen begins with a FREE cultural immersion: Discover Longyearbyen. Guests will be invited to an insightful talk about the town’s way of life accompanied by local delicacies such as reindeer canapés, coal-mine beer, and polar bear chocolates.

Discover the Cultures of Greenland’s Small Villages

The small size of Atlas’ yachts makes it easier to reach remote villages. In Ittoqqortoormiit and Paamiut, the FREE cultural immersions open these villages exclusively for Atlas expeditions, allowing for deep dives into Greenland’s traditions. The history of the oldest form of transportation in the Arctic comes alive in Ilulissat as explorers speak to their host and take pictures with these beautiful animals. For the past 4,000 years, the Inuit have inhabited Tele Island, Sallinnguit, a place where past and modern cultures meet. A local guide from Sissimiut leads explorers on an invigorating hike to ancient hunting grounds and submerged ruins.

Always Included

Every detail on an expedition aboard an intimate yacht is carefully curated for an all-inclusive experience. Guests will enjoy a FREE cultural immersion on every expedition, a main dining venue with ever-changing menus, L’OCCITANE bath amenities, pre-paid gratuities and much more. And exclusively on polar expeditions, they will receive FREE private charter-jet service, as well as enjoy a polar plunge, enrichment lectures and destination briefings, an Atlas Ocean Voyages parka and vest, and more.

The Atlas Experience

Atlas Ocean Voyages takes explorers on journeys beyond the ordinary. They can experience unparalleled moments on shore, and then return aboard with fellow explorers after a day of enriching explorations. With cocktails and canapés in a “come as you are” atmosphere, the après-expedition ambience cultivates intimate connections. Together, explorers, expedition team members, and onboard staff, officers, and crew will follow the migrations of wondrous wildlife in the Arctic as they create unforgettable memories and new bonds.

To book, call your preferred Travel Advisor or our Voyages Specialists at 844.44.ATLAS (28527) ATLASOCEANVOYAGES.COM

SPONSORED CONTENT

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100

A CENTENNIAL FAMILY CRUISE Planning a milestone family event can be a daunting task. Here’s how one multigenerational gathering came together beautifully on board. Living to the age of 100 is an amazing feat … but celebrating a centennial birthday aboard a cruise ship with family from all over the country is truly extraordinary. We set sail from Miami last spring on Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Sky with four generations of the Guthmann clan to honor our patriarch, my father-in-law Louis Guthmann. “I wanted to have all my family together and didn’t know how much longer I had the opportunity to do that,” says Lou, a World War II veteran from Chicago. Having been on nearly 100 cruises spanning more than five decades, Lou chose to spend his 100th birthday on the high seas with his children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren. From a Roaring Twenties– themed birthday party to an exclusive villa on Great Stirrup Cay, we had an unforgettable nine days filled with family, fun, and sun. Along with highlights of our voyage, I’ve shared insights for a multigenerational cruise that will create lasting memories.

By Julie Guthmann 49

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BE FLEXIBLE TO ACCOMMODATE THE MAJORITY OF FAMILY MEMBERS “Planning a cruise for 27 people was not easy. Even getting a date everyone could make was a challenge,” explains my sister-in-law, Carol Rogers, who helped coordinate our centennial family cruise. To accommodate a big group of diverse ages, be flexible with dates and consider cruising when schools are closed. You’re likely to get a larger turnout, but the downside is more crowded ships and higher prices.

Left: pla2na - stock.adobe.com, Michel Verdure/Norwegian Cruise Line Right: Julie Guthmann (x4)

CHOOSE A SHIP WITH ACTIVITIES, ENTERTAINMENT, AND AN ITINERARY FOR ALL AGES Lou’s eldest son, Joel Guthmann, describes the challenge of multigenerational cruising: “It is impossible to give each person exactly the experience they would choose with a single family.” One of the oldest and smallest ships in Norwegian’s fleet, Sky didn’t have the water slides, ropes course, zip line, or Broadway-style theatrical productions typically found in newer, larger ships. However, Sky fit the criteria of sailing on Lou’s birthday and being the right size to keep track of his eight great-grandchildren ranging in age from 1 to 7. The kiddie pool and Splash Academy youth program tired out our active bunch. But for my 6-year-old granddaughter, Kayla Presto, the all-youcan-eat pizza buffet and ice-cream station made the cruise ideal. Six Caribbean ports — San Juan, Philipsburg, St. John’s, St. Thomas, Puerto Plata, and Great Stirrup Cay — offered breathtaking beaches, historical sights, and countless shops to satisfy the adults.

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Lou and Marilyn

PLAN DINNERS TOGETHER SO YOU GET ENOUGH FAMILY TIME With activities from poolside games and dance classes to trivia contests and karaoke, your relatives might follow their own interests and wind up on different schedules for meals. Night owls dancing in the nightclub might not wake until noon, but early risers who turn in after the evening show may be first in line at the breakfast buffet. Since one of Norwegian’s many perks was a free drink package, we met for cocktails each day at 5:00 p.m. so we could hang out and reminisce. I prefer Norwegian’s “freestyle” flexibility of dining according to your schedule or appetite, but having reservations for the same time each evening works best on a multigenerational cruise. Norwegian treated Lou like a VIP by surprising him with a special birthday cake and serving him a jumbo shrimp cocktail each night that wasn’t even on the menu. While Sky had several specialty dining venues, the upcharge would have been wasted on our youngest travelers, who prefer grilled cheese and other kid-friendly foods. We left the children with their parents and had a quiet, relaxing adults-only dinner in the steakhouse with my father-in-law, his four children and their spouses, and his sweetheart, Marilyn Harris. She was my mother-in-law Dotty’s closest friend, and lost her husband — Lou’s best friend, Bob — a couple of months after Dotty passed. This was truly a match made in heaven.

MARK THE OCCASION WITH MATCHING SOUVENIR T-SHIRTS Wearing our “Lou’s 100 Crew” T-shirts, our entourage attracted the attention of fellow passengers. Soon, they all seemed to know Lou. He had become a celebrity during our voyage as the ship’s only centenarian and a World War II veteran who had served his country as a gunner on a B-25 bomber.

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SPEND TIME ASHORE WITH LOVED ONES

Background: pim pic - stock.adobe.com Left: Lawrey - stock.adobe.com, Julie Guthmann (x2), forcdan - stock.adobe.com, Norwegian Cruise Line Right: Julie Guthmann, Norwegian Cruise Line

Maho Beach

Don’t miss the chance to create lifelong memories as you explore new destinations. For my daughter, Ashley Presto, visiting multiple ports where she snorkeled, sunbathed, and shopped alongside her extended family made this cruise unforgettable. “I especially enjoyed spending time with my Aunt Linda who lives in California as we hiked in Puerto Rico’s El Yunque rainforest,” Ashley recalls. A highlight for the grandparents in our group was an excursion to Ocean World in the Dominican Republic. We shared our grandchildren’s wonder and excitement encountering dolphins, sea lions, sharks, and exotic tropical birds. In St. Maarten, we went our separate ways, with some members of our party taking the water taxi to Great Bay Beach and others driving to Maho Beach where planes fly right over your head. But we all looked forward to enjoying time together at Great Stirrup Cay, Norwegian’s private island in the Bahamas. Those plans didn’t start as expected when Carol was called into the general manager’s office. At first, we thought we were being banned from the main dining room because of the rowdy children. We were relieved to learn that, in honor of our centennial cruiser, Norwegian was providing priority boarding for the tender boat to Great Stirrup Cay and a courtesy villa valued at $899. “I’m not a beach person,” says Lou. Though he hadn’t been planning to get off the ship, he was easily persuaded to spend the day at the air-conditioned villa. The one catch was that the villa could only accommodate six people. We were eventually comped a second villa because of issues with excursions that were not as accessible as advertised. So, the younger generation and their children headed to the public beach while the others joined Lou at the Silver Cove private retreat. We had our own beach and upscale buffet, complimentary umbrellas and floating mats, and even a spacious shower to rinse off the sand and salty sea. Such royal treatment has spoiled us for future cruises.

Silver Cove

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ORGANIZE A SPECIAL GATHERING JUST FOR YOUR FAMILY Lou’s 100th birthday was the ideal occasion for our group’s private get-together. Since he was born in 1923, the Roaring Twenties made an appropriate theme. We dressed to impress in flapper dresses, feathered headbands, and fedoras, and were transported back in time to a bygone era. We played bingo with cards featuring details of Lou’s life and tested our knowledge of trivia from 1923. We serenaded the guest of honor with our rendition of “It Had to be Lou,” a parody of the classic oldie, “It Had to be You,” which rivaled any musical number performed on the ship. “Seeing the huge smile on my father’s face at the party made the whole trip worthwhile,” recalls my husband, Bob Guthmann.

Background: pim pic - stock.adobe.com Left: Lawrey - stock.adobe.com, Julie Guthmann (x2), forcdan - stock.adobe.com, Norwegian Cruise Line Right: Julie Guthmann, Norwegian Cruise Line

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Great Stirrup

EVALUATE THE SHIP’S ACCESSIBILITY FOR GUESTS WITH PHYSICAL CHALLENGES When planning a multigenerational cruise, consider the needs of relatives who require a wheelchair or scooter. Sky had few accessible staterooms, one of which wasn’t available when we booked our cruise. But Norwegian came through by providing a free upgrade to a balcony room with a layout that accommodated a family member who used a scooter. Few 100-year-olds can run a marathon or navigate their way around a ship without a little help, so Joel and his brother-in-law, Mike Rogers, got plenty of exercise pushing a wheelchair.

Cay villa

DON’T DELAY PLANNING YOUR MULTIGENERATIONAL CRUISE “Not many people get to experience their grandparent’s 100th birthday, but to be with nearly our entire family on a cruise was everything,” says my niece, Courtney Meindl. While Sky did not have all the features we had hoped for, our centennial family cruise exceeded everyone’s expectations. But don’t wait until you turn 100 to plan a multigenerational cruise. There’s no vacation that rivals a cruise where you can look out at the sparkling blue water, feel the ocean breeze against your skin, and smell the salty sea air while surrounded by the people you love with the time to enjoy their company and all the amenities a ship offers.

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Around the World

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.

by Alex Darlington

Zeavola Resort Ko Phi Phi, Thailand

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Left: Zeavola Resort Right top to bottom: Graphic Resources - stock.adobe.com, Marius Beck Dahle/Werksted /Havila Voyages, Graphic Resources - stock.adobe.com, kichigin19 - stock.adobe.co, Graphic Resources - stock.adobe.com, Hotel Keemala, Graphic Resources - stock.adobe.com

GOOD VIBES

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BEST LIFE

CRUISING COOL AND BRIGHT There’s not much that isn’t perfect about the eco-ship Havila Castor. It checks all the boxes: styling, service, food, and comfort, and all of it while leaving only the tiniest carbon footprint on board and in ecoconscious shore excursions. The 179-cabin, 640-passenger vessel offers classic Scandanavian

voyages from Bergen to Kerkenes, calling on 34 stunning ports along the way. And if you’re partial to breathtaking sights, you’ll be pleased to know that if you take a 12-day cruise — carefully charted to be free of light pollution at night — and you don’t see the awe-inspiring aurora borealis, you’re eligible to take another 6- or 7-night cruise absolutely free. They call it the Northern Lights Promise.

Havila Castor in Trollfjorden

CUNARD’S BETTER POWER Leave it to Cunard, one of the world’s grandest luxury lines, to also earn praise as one of today’s most innovative and eco-friendly cruise lines, thanks to a breakthrough in sustainability: They’ve enabled their entire fleet to be connected to shore power, allowing engines to be switched off while in port. Think of it as plugging into a huge extension cord. Shoreside power will provide all the ships’ needs, giving the engines a rest and dramatically reducing emissions. “By adopting shore power technology, we’re taking a significant step in our ongoing commitment to minimizing our carbon footprint and fostering healthier port environments,” says Cunard’s president, Katie McAlister.

DIVE GREENER

Clown fish

THAI ECO-LUXURY

Keemala Village, Thailand

Pleasure, comfort, inner peace, and sustainability come together in the Hotel Keemala, a series of villas in beautiful Phuket, Thailand, where you can wake to the sounds of tropical jungle and the smell of fresh croissants. Its 38 private villas were built into the hills above Kamala Village. Care was taken not to interfere with the natural landscape. Guests can wander through the original jungle between villas. As they do, they’re encouraged to take time to stop and experience numerous secluded hideaways along the way. But Keemala’s focus isn’t on the outside world, but inner space. The getaway puts mindfulness at the center of its offerings. Holistic food, yoga classes, and a traditional Thai healing spa are all provided.

Conscientious divers know diving in exotic places can be bittersweet. Yes, it’s exhilarating to experience the beauty of clear water, coral reefs, and dazzlingly colorful fish. But, because of climate change and other factors, there’s always the danger that the environment we so dearly love can be damaged by our mere presence in it. So is it possible to dive in fragile locales and feel all right about it? Absolutely! According to Green Pearls, part of the solution is taking time to explore destinations, and then choosing dive centers that make sustainability a priority. They suggest centers in Ko Phi Phi, Thailand; SainteAnne Marine National Park on the Seychelles; and Gili Lankanfushi in the Maldives.

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GOOD VIBES

Sympathy for the Devils The Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary is helping save Tasmanian devils and other endangered wildlife on Australia’s island state.

Left: hyserb - stock.adobe.com This page top to bottom: Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, reindo - stock.adobe.com, Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

by Elizabeth Warkentin

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BEST LIFE

reg Irons is something of a devil whisperer. A Tasmanian devil whisperer, that is. The owner and director of Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, just outside Hobart, Tasmania, is one of the few humans that devils will seek out and allow to hold them. Two such devils, Marley and Phoenix, are siblings who were orphaned when their mother, who had them in her pouch, was hit by a car.

Left: hyserb - stock.adobe.com This page top to bottom: Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, reindo - stock.adobe.com, Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

Because the siblings were orphaned so young and never lived in the wild, they cannot be released; Bonorong is their forever home. The majority of the animals who pass through here are sick or injured, rehabilitated and released back to the wild. Unlike many questionable outfits that masquerade as sanctuaries, Bonorong is not a zoo or a wildlife park. “We’re a true “My wife and I hand-raised sort of sanctuary,” said Irons. them since they were joeys, “Every animal that’s here is when they weighed only 45 here for a reason. It’s only grams (1.6 ounces), so we’ve if something is wrong with developed a relationship them that they stay with us.” with them,” Irons says, In many ways, Marley and “They jump on our laps and Phoenix are lucky to be among go to sleep. … Devils are the sanctuary’s permanent very, very misunderstood. residents. Not only would They’re not the ferocious they not know how to survive creatures they’re made in the wild, they also both out to be. They’re quite suffer from cataracts. Their shy, timid creatures.” species also happens to be I had the chance to meet endangered. Again. Extinct Marley and Phoenix, now on the Australian mainland 3 years old, when I visited for three millennia, the Bonorong one evening in species continued to thrive November 2023. About the in Tasmania for 3,500 years size of piglets, Tasmanian — until European settlers devils are the world’s largest arrived. Farmers considered carnivorous marsupials. With them pests, so a bounty was their stocky torsos and fat tails, placed on their heads. The deep-red ears, characteristic species was very nearly white stripe across their wiped out by the time the chests, and disproportionately bounty was removed in 1941.

Greg Irons

Devils are very, very misunderstood. They’re not the ferocious creatures they’re made out to be. long front legs that give them a wonky gait, the little creatures are quite endearing. Marley and Phoenix were hungry and making high-pitched whimpering noises as they looked up at us from their enclosure. Robyn, our guide, passed them tennis ball-sized chunks of meat with longhandled tongs. Once full, the two took to playing, gamboling back and forth on their ladder bridge, weaving through bushes, and popping in and out of their den. Naturally, I fell in love with them.

Today, along with habitat loss and a distressingly high incidence of road collisions, devils face another grave threat: Devil Facial Tumour Disease, or DFTD. First observed by a wildlife photographer in 1996, DFTD is a contagious form of cancer. The disease is agonizingly painful and 100 percent fatal. Eventually, the sores that form in the animals’ mouths and jaws make it excruciating to eat, causing death by starvation within six months of contracting the illness.

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BEST LIFE Happily, research into a vaccine is underway. The Menzies Institute at the University of Tasmania, in Hobart, has been developing an inoculation formula for devils that would prevent DFTD. Dr. Ruth Pye, a former Bonorong veterinarian and now a research veterinarian at Menzies specializing in Tasmanian devil immunology, says the team currently has a candidate vaccine but has not yet tested it on any live devils. Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary and the Menzies Institute often help each other with devils when necessary. Robyn, our guide during our evening tour, told us excitedly that Menzies would be testing the new vaccine at Bonorong once they were ready to begin trials. It’s not only devils who live or are rehabilitated at Bonorong. The sanctuary welcomes a wide range of Tasmanian critters: wombats, quolls, kangaroos, echidnas, wallabies, native birds, and bettongs, among other native wildlife. Launched in 2013, Bonorong’s 24/7/365 wildlife rescue service was the first in the island state of Tasmania. Today, the sanctuary receives between 15,000 to 17,000 animal rescue calls a year, employs 75 people (including four veterinarians), and gets additional help from legions of dedicated volunteers. Bonorong also boasts the only wildlife hospital on the island and will soon have enough funds to build a much larger veterinary hospital with multiple operating and treatment rooms.

Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary (www.bonorong.com.au) is in Brighton, Tasmania, and can be reached by a daily shuttle from Hobart. There’s also a one-hectare, free-range enclosure, only accessible to guests of the Saffire Freycinet boutique luxury resort, for devils retired from the captive breeding program.

Bonorong is so much more than a wildlife sanctuary and rehabilitation center. It is an asset to the local community. It’s a “fiercely loyal” community, as Irons says, that grows larger and stronger every year, generously donating money and time to help rescue wild animals in emergencies and conserve Tasmania’s wildlife over the long term. In a country with one of the fastest rates of extinction on the planet, Tasmania is the last refuge for species that are now extinct elsewhere in Australia, including, of course, the Tasmanian devil. By the time I get to visit Tasmania again, Marley and Phoenix, may have already gone to Devil Heaven due to old age (devils usually live to about 7 in captivity), but I’ll be sure to visit Irons and the animals and staff at Bonorong. And I’m keeping my fingers crossed that, by then, DFTD will be well on the decline.

Saffire Freycinet (x5)

The sanctuary receives between 15,000 to 17,000 animal rescue calls a year.

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SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

Q : What famous film shot a scene in this deliciously civilized city square?

Sergey Dzyuba / Alamy Stock Photo

(answer on next page)

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SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

(from previous page)

Q : What famous film shot a scene in this deliciously civilized city square?

EAT PRAY LOVE Julia Roberts enjoyed the flavors of Italy here in Rome's Piazza Navona in front of the Sant'Agnese in Agone church.

Photo 12 / Alamy Stock Photo

A: For 2010's Eat Pray Love,

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LELAND & SEA

An Elixir of Paradise Steve Leland travels the world in style. This issue, he’s sailing Elixir Boutique Cruises in the Peloponnese Islands.

Left: BlueOrange Studio - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise: kite_rin - stock.adobe.com, Elixir Boutique Cruises (x2), Veniamakis Stefanos - stock.adobe.com, Balint Radu - stock.adobe.com, Stefano Zaccaria - stock.adobe.com

by Steve Leland

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BEST LIFE

he Peloponnese Islands of Greece have an appeal that has attracted sailors for centuries. The region is rich with mythical and archaeological sites where history buffs can revel in the glory of ancient Sparta or Olympia, the birthplace of the Olympic Games. Crystal-clear waters of emerald green gently lap deserted beaches in secluded coves. Characteristic Greek villages beckon to yacht enthusiasts. This is exactly why we chose to cruise these idyllic islands aboard the pride of Elixir Boutique Cruises, the 25-cabin Elysium.

For in Elysium there is no snow, nor heavy winter-storm, nor rain, but the Okeanos sends up the gusts of shrill-blowing Zephyros at all times… Although technically correct, calling this a “cruise” might be a slight misnomer. Instead, this dream-journey focused on intimate engagement with the mosaic of stunning Greek islands that dot the waters of the Ionian Sea. Elysium had previously cast its magical small-ship spell on us with a 7-day cruise through the Cyclades, but this time we chose to sail through the Peloponnese Islands, far removed from the paths of the larger cruise ships. The adventure started as we sailed out of the marina of Lavrion, a short drive from the Athens airport. Within minutes, the ancient ruins of the Temple of Poseidon appeared high atop the mountain, standing sentry and

Temple of Poseidon

We strolled the narrow alleyways of coastal villages in search of the perfect sidewalk taverna. welcoming us to the mystique of Greece. Canapés and cocktails, greetings and meetings, dinner under the stars and we were all set for a week of discovery. Before calling it a day, we threaded our way through the magnificent man-made marvel of the Corinth Canal. Only 80 feet wide, the massive limestone cliffs dwarfed our vessel and left only a few feet to spare on either side. All this only on the first day. Morning found Elysium dropping anchor for a brief swim in the cobaltblue sea before docking in the harbor of Itea, a sleepy little village lined with sidewalk cafes. An excursion to the ruins of ancient Delphi punched the ticket for history seekers and a stroll through the village provided a chance to revive our sea legs before our yacht set off into a blazing sunset.

Imagine a pop-up barbecue on deck, with the hotel manager grilling up a freshly caught octopus as the smiling owner of the vessel proudly poured freeflowing ouzo.

Navagio Beach

When early-born rose-fingered Dawn appeared, we brought our ship to safety, dragging her into a hollow cave where there were nymphs' seats and dancing places…. The next morning’s rendezvous with sun and sand came courtesy of a short Zodiac ride into a cozy cove with white limestone boulders painted by turquoise waters. Each day’s activity ashore provided new opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, paddleboarding, or kayaking. Imagine basking on the blinding white sand and splashing in the milky, blue sea surrounded by the towering cliffs of Navagio Beach, often voted as the best beach in the world. Picture swimming in a secret cove shaded by giant cypress trees or jumping off the gangway into the deep-blue Ionian Sea with the ship at anchor. That was all part of the Elixir experience. Evenings were no less exciting, offering total immersion into the vibe of Greece. We strolled the narrow alleyways of coastal villages in search of the perfect sidewalk taverna serving up authentic Greek dishes of delight. We enjoyed freshly caught seafood, souvlaki, or moussaka washed down with a glass of ouzo. When not in port, onboard dinners were served out on deck under a canopy of stars as Elysium made its way to the next destination. Opa! As a unique twist, healthy living embraced the ship’s natural surroundings, with open-air yoga and Pilates sessions surrounded by the picturesque panorama of islands. Trained instructors offered private consultations for personalized workouts and well-being routines. This was supplemented by hearty but healthy food preparation, including a smoothie bar blending up detox, power-boost, and other vital selections. For personal rejuvenation, the onboard spa offered a selection of massages and treatments. PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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LELAND & SEA

The design aesthetic of Elysium relied on a retro look accented with a light-gray and turquoise color scheme. Accoutrements in the indoor and outdoor lounges gave the impression of thoughtful modern design.

Monemvasia

Calling this a cruise might be a slight misnomer. Exploring the narrow alleyways and ramparts of the fortified island of Monemvasia and hiking to the lofty top of the massive mountain outcropping were out-of-this-world experiences. You could share your discoveries of places like Hydra, Ithaca, or Zakynthos with friends back home … or you could keep the secrets of these magical destinations to yourself. After all, this isn’t just another cruise. This is enjoying life at your own pace in subtle luxury. Sipping a drink on deck at sunset and visiting off-the-radar Peloponnese Islands is what this Elixir Boutique Cruise is all about.

Left clockwise from top left: Elixir Boutique Cruises; sida - stock.adobe.com, Elixir Boutique Cruises (x2)

The wind swelled out the middle of the sail, the waves splashed loudly about the prow of the ship as she went on her way, and she sped through the waves…. The design aesthetic of Elysium relied on a retro look accented with a light-gray and turquoise color scheme. Accoutrements in the indoor and outdoor lounges gave the impression of thoughtful modern design. Technical innovation might have been considered minimal but the comfort of spacious accommodations and the abundance of public deck space were unexpected. The endearing and contagious hospitality of the yacht’s staff was an Elixir trademark. Imagine a pop-up barbecue on deck, with the hotel manager grilling up a freshly caught octopus as the smiling owner of the vessel proudly poured free-flowing ouzo. We could learn Greek dancing from Eva the bartender, take a Greek cooking lesson from the chef, or enjoy movie trivia sessions from the cruise director.

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#CruiseForGood

BEST LIFE

CITIZEN SCIENCE TO SAVE CARIBBE AN COR AL

https://reefresearch.org.

reefresearch.org

Scuba enthusiasts can make a splash while enjoying the undersea sights as one of the Central Caribbean Marine Institute’s citizen scientists. The program operates out of the Little Cayman Research Centre and allows any interested scuba diver to join researchers as they monitor the reefs of the Cayman Islands, solving mysteries and observing fish, coral, and other marine life in its natural habitat. If you’re going to be in the Cayman Islands and you’re interested in diving with a purpose, check out

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Share A Moving Moment Adopt-A-Manatee®

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