Porthole Cruise and Travel, February 2024 by ppigroup

A Cruise Galley Gallery

02.2024

Expedition chic very vogue voyaging

Truffle hunting dogs dig delicacies

EcoGalaxy's Galapagos compact catamaran

Norwegian Viva! A little look at a great big ship

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Discover A New World of Cruising on board MSC World America. A world of sustainable cruising on a ship designed for immersive and enriching experiences at sea. A world where elegant European design meets American comfort; where cultures unite on a ship designed for the worldly, curious traveler. Journey on a ship with distinctive international style, powered by cleaner fuel, and full of sophistication. MSC World America starts cruising from Miami to the Caribbean in spring of 2025. Be one of the first to discover A New World of Cruising on MSC World America.

Discover more at msccruises.com

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The Art of Sparkle™ Exclusively at

Alaska • Amber Cove • Antigua • Aruba • Bahamas • Barbados • Belize • Bermuda • Cabo San Lucas Costa Maya • Cozumel • Curaçao • Grand Cayman • Grand Turk • Jamaica • Orlando • Puerto Vallar ta • Roatan San Juan • Sawgrass Mills • St. Kitts • St. Lucia • St. Maar ten • St. Thomas • Taino Bay • Tor tola

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Introducing The New Crown of Light® Fancy Shapes

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Alaska and Cunard – a perfect match ®

Alaska becomes even more spectacular when you experience it on board Queen Elizabeth.® Spend ample time in port and scenic days visiting Glacier Bay National Park, Hubbard Glacier, or Tracy Arm Fjord. Onboard enrichment brings you deeper into the moment, while our renowned White Star ServiceTM elevates your vacation from ship to shore.

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2024 Alaska Voyages Roundtrip Vancouver 10 nights  Jun 11 10 nights  Jun 21 10 nights  Jul 1 11 nights  Jul 11 10 nights  Jul 22 9 nights  Aug 1 10 nights  Aug 10 10 nights  Aug 20 10 nights  Aug 30 10 nights  Sep 9

Vancouver to San Francisco 13 nights  Sep 9

2025 Alaska Voyages also available now © 2024 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Elizabeth, and White Star Service are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Contact your Travel Advisor | Call (800) 728-6273 | Visit Cunard.com/Port

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

FEBRUARY 2024

The Season of Starting We’re celebrating new beginnings by planning better trips than ever.

IS IT STRANGE THAT THE NEW YEAR STARTS IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER?

At least for those of us on the northern half of the planet. In places like Cape Town or Auckland or Santiago, it’s hot and sweaty summer. But up here, where everything is still and wintry, it’s hard to imagine that. Even in South Florida, the cruise capital of the world, where Porthole maintains its editorial offices, we’re poised, waiting to see what might be emerging next. Spring is the season of new flowers and baby lambs. Here in midwinter, we celebrate the New Year ... and, of course, this year’s slate of newbuilds. You can catch up with some of those announcements on page 12, and see what new cruise plans start to emerge from your imagination. There’s plenty of other fuel for picturing your next voyage in this issue, too. »

Get outfitted for a personal expedition with the functionally fabulous Safari Chic selection on page 19, the first installment of our new Style & Design department.

Imagine a cruise on the fantastic new ship Norwegian Viva, a gigantic cruise colossus seen through the eyes of smallship traveler Lisa Maloney on page 30.

Turn over a new leaf with Jon Fleming, who decided to take his first-ever cycling trip by riding along the Danube through four different countries. Read his epic introduction to a different style of travel in our Roads & Rails department on page 22.

Plan out the dinner (or dessert) of your dreams with Kate Wickers and a dog named Luna in the truffle-rich Piedmont area of Italy on page 14 … and then take a peek at what’s been cooking with Andrew Maclear’s photographic galley tour on page 38.

Swim with a twinkling galaxy of living stars (and author Richard Varr) in Puerto Rico’s bioluminescent bays on page 27.

Shake off your aches and pains on a surprisingly active luxury cruise on Riviera with the camaraderie of Marcia McGreevy Lewis on page 44.

That’s just a little bit of what’s emerging in this issue. I hope you enjoy it all, and whatever else emerges for you in 2024. Travel well!

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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TOGETHER, W E T R AV E L I N G O O D C O M PA N Y.

I N T I M AT E YA C H T I N G E X P E D I T I O N S ™ At Atlas, we have set a new course for expedition cruise travel, curated for spirited explorers, led by expert guides, and enhanced by a genuine and caring crew who share a desire to connect with people, places, and our cherished natural world. From bold adventures in the Arctic and Antarctica to cultural and epicurean expeditions year-round, travelers return to the yachts to savor moments well-lived, among new friends in a relaxed, après expedition atmosphere. Begin exploring at AtlasOceanVoyages.com ANTARCTICA / PATAGONIA + THE FALKLANDS / SOUTH AMERICA / CARIBBEAN / TRANSOCEANIC MEDITERRANEAN / NORTHERN EUROPE / ICELAND + GREENLAND / ARCTIC

ATLAS ALWAYS INCLUDED:

Expedition Guides + Enriching Experiences, Gratuities, Culinary + Wine Tastings, Unlimited Wines + Spirits, and more.

SECOND GUEST SAILS FREE ON ALL-INCLUSIVE YEAR-ROUND EXPEDITIONS. Contact your Travel Advisor or our Voyage Specialists at 844.442.8527 Special offers and inclusions are capacity controlled and may be changed or withdrawn from any voyage at any time without notice. Additional restrictions may apply. For full terms and conditions, contact your preferred Travel Advisor or Atlas Ocean Voyages. © 2023 Atlas Ocean Voyages. Ships’ Registry: Portugal 2884_11.16.23

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CONTRIBUTORS

FEBRUARY 2024

BILL PANOFF

Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

LINDA DOUTHAT

Assoc. Publisher/Creative Director

GRANT BALFOUR Managing Editor

SKIP ANDERSON Art Director

SARA LINDA Proofreader

Marcia McGreevy Andrew Maclear Lewis

Lisa Richard Maloney Varr

Kate Wickers

ALEX DARLINGTON, JON FLEMING, STEVE LELAND, MARCIA MCGREEVY LEWIS, ANDREW MACLEAR, LISA MALONEY, RICHARD VARR, JILL WEINLEIN, KATE WICKERS Contributing Writers

ALAMY, ANDREW MACLEAR, AWL IMAGES, TRACY FLEMING, ISTOCK, LISA MALONEY, SUPERSTOCK, TRAVEL ALASKA, JILL WEINLEIN, KATE WICKERS Contributing Photographers

Marcia lives in Seattle and is a retired feature writer for a Washington newspaper. She has written for literary journals, magazines, travel sites, and books such as the Chicken Soup for the Soul series. Reach her on Facebook and Instagram: marcialewis25, Twitter: @ McGreevyLewis and Linkedin: marcia-lewis.

Andrew started taking pictures in Sixties London, photographing the music and entertainment luminaries of the era. He then made a career in screenwriting but a stills camera has never been far from his hand. Today he uses both digital and analog cameras, including his original 1968 Nikon F.

Lisa is a freelance writer and longtime resident of Anchorage, Alaska. She’s the author of three travel and outdoors guidebooks, including the award-winning “Moon Alaska.” She also served as senior editor at Alaska magazine and founded cometoalaska. net.

Richard has written for USA Today, the Dallas Morning News, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Highways, and Home & Away. He authored a DK Eyewitness Guide to the Pennsylvania Dutch Country, and his Porthole story on Grenada earned first place in the SATW Central States international stories competition.

Kate is a British freelance journalist, novelist, and world traveler. Her work includes travel, culture, and food features for international publications, including The Telegraph, The Scotsman, The Daily Mail, The Australian, Islands, and The Globe & Mail. Her first travel memoir, Shape of a Boy, was published in 2022.

SALES OFFICES

Corporate HQ/PPI Group 1500 West Cypress Creek Road Suite 403 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 (954) 377-7777 Email: sales@ppigroup.com

WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President

STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing

BILL PANOFF CEO/Chairman WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF Chief Operating Officer PIERO VITALE Chief Financial Officer LINDA DOUTHAT SVP, Publishing STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing SOREN DOMLESKY Director of Technology

See You on Social ! Facebook.com/PortholeCruise Instagram.com/PortholeCruise Twitter.com/PortholeCruise PortholeCruise.tumblr.com

Tiktok.com/@PortholeCruiseandTravelBP Pinterest.com/PortholeCruise YouTube.com/PortholeCruise YouTube.com/@CruiseandTravelBP

FEBRUARY 2024 ISSUE 249 Cover image: Norwegian Viva in Lisbon. Courtesy of Norwegian Cruise Line

Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2024 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 To make address changes or ask questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com. All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or (760) 268-9594 (International) 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Pacific time; email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year digital subscription (6 issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS. Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you could ever ask for.

St.

T H O M A S

St.

C R O I X

St.

J O H N

VISITUSVI.COM

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CONTENTS FEBRUARY 2024

Day @ Sea Norwegian Viva

Charting Courses

Toss Your Cane & Play Ball

An Alaskan adventure traveler adapts to the newest megaship at sea.

Rare glimpses inside the culinary heart of the cruise experience

A cruise on Oceania Cruises’ Riviera becomes a voyage of unexpected discoveries.

by Lisa Maloney

by Andrew Maclear

by Marcia McGreevy Lewis

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06 Publisher’s Letter 08 Contributors PLANET PLAYGROUND

12 Newbuilds Ahoy! Navigating 2024’s inaugural cruises

14 Wine & Dine Hunting fungus in Piedmont yields buried treasure ... if you can dig it. by Kate Wickers

19 Style & Design Safari Chic — Expedition Essentials 22 Roads & Rails You don’t have to be a pro cyclist to have

a successful European bicycle adventure. by Jon Fleming

27 Shore Leave In Puerto Rico’s bioluminescent bays,

you could be seeing “stars” in the water. by Richard Varr

Safari Chic 19

Black Gold 14 BEST LIFE

50 Good Vibes: News Here’s how travel is building

Left: Norwegain Cruise Line Clockwise from top left: Emoji Smileys People - stock.adobe.com; uliab - stock.adobe.com; Cunard; Oscar Farrera/Hurtigruten Expeditions; katiekk2 - stock.adobe.com; BlueOrange Studio - stock.adobe.com

a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington

52 Good Vibes: Galapagos ExoGalaxy and the islands by Jill Weinlein

55 Set-Jetting Famous film location 58 Leland & Sea Steve sails the Great White North in

Cunard luxury and on an HX adventure. by Steve Leland

62 #CruiseForGood

Coral gardening with Jason Momoa

Left: Norwegian Viva, Ocean Boulevard Concourse

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A peek ahead at the newest ships

Navigating 2024:

Newbuilds Ahoy!

A fleet of newbuilds will sail into 2024, each ship promising new high-water marks in innovation, luxury, and adventure. Here's an overview of what we’re looking forward to sailing.

► Cunard unveils Queen Anne, its first newbuild in more

than 12 years, in May 2024. Partnering with two-Michelinstarred chef Michel Roux, the new ship introduces revamped dining experiences at the Queens Grill and the Golden Lion pub, and the innovative specialty restaurants Aji Wa, Aranya, and Sir Samuels promise a gastronomic journey on the high seas.

► Royal Caribbean takes

center stage in January with the much-anticipated debut of Icon of the Seas. This 7,600-passenger marvel already boasts recordbreaking sales. Adrenaline junkies will be drawn to Thrill Island, a waterpark with slides and an over-thewater obstacle course. Meanwhile, Chill Island offers a laid-back haven with four pools, including Royal's first swim-up bar, Swim & Tonic.

► TUI brand Marella Cruises will add the 4,000-passenger

Marella Voyager to the fleet in June 2024. That month, American Cruise Lines introduces the first of two brand new catamarans, American Liberty, which will be joined by American Legend in November. These unusual, all-balcony, 100-passenger ships are designed for coastal waters, exploring locations such as Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard, and the Florida Keys.

► In July 2024, Silversea unveils the second

of its Nova-class ships, Silver Ray. An asymmetrical design is meant to maximize ocean views, with the Otium Suite boasting an unprecedented 270-degree view. The Otium Spa offers wellness as an indulgence, while the popular S.A.L.T. Lab, relocated (as on Silver Nova) to Deck 10, offers a 14-course tasting menu for culinary enthusiasts.

Summer ► In February, Princess

Cruises introduces Sun Princess, the first of its Sphere-class ships. With a capacity of 4,300 passengers, this vessel promises a family-friendly experience with the introduction of Park19, featuring the firstever rollglider at sea. The ship also unveils Signature Collection and Reserve Collection suites, each with its own set of exclusive perks.

► Early April will see

Avalon Alegria bring Avalon Waterways’ intimate river-cruise experience to Portugal's Douro River. The 102-passenger ship will feature 37 of the line's signature Panorama Suites on two full decks, with open-air balconies and beds facing the river.

► Following a successful launch in 2023, new line Explora Journeys introduces its second luxury ship, Explora II, in August 2024. With a focus on upscale destination experiences, the ship offers a stunning lobby bar, gorgeous pools, and a variety of dining options, including an unlimited raw bar in the Emporium Marketplace. Families are welcomed, a rare offering in the luxury cruise market.

By Year’s End ► With an inaugural on

December 12, Viking Vela will mark a slight departure from the familiar Viking Ocean fleet. Carrying 998 passengers, this larger ship will offer additional cabins and storage space while maintaining Viking's lauded Scandinavian design and inclusive dining options.

► In December,

Disney Treasure, a sister ship to Disney Wish, enchants fans with an Aladdin theme and a focus on adventure. The interactive restaurant Plaza de Coco and Zootopiainspired Jumbeaux's Sweet Shop add a touch of Disney magic, as do themed cafes named after animated heroines Moana and Mulan and the new AquaMouse water slide.

Autumn ► On September 19, the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection

welcomes Ilma, a 456-passenger ship that’s larger than its predecessor, Evrima, but still maintains a luxury-minded crewto-passenger ratio, creating an indulgent yacht atmosphere that includes fine dining options and an expanded marina area.

► In November, AmaWaterways launches AmaMagdalena on

Colombia's Magdalena River, a relatively new cruising region. The line will also expand its presence on the Nile in March with AmaLilia, offering unique itineraries and a pre-cruise stay in Cairo.

As the year unfolds, these newbuilds promise new cruising experiences, blending innovation, luxury, and exploration. Whether you seek thrilling adventures, family-friendly escapades, or refined elegance, 2024 sparkles with a sea of choices for every discerning traveler. Bon voyage!

From left: koya979 - stock.adobe.com; kirill_makarov - stock.adobe.com

Starting the Year

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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For reservations and information call 1 844 747 3476 us.ponant.com

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Hunting fungus in Piedmont yields buried treasure … if you can dig it. by Kate Wickers

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Left: uliab - stock.adobe.com Opposite page clockwise: Francesco Riccardo Iacomino/ AWL Images Ltd; uckyo - stock.adobe.com; Joshua Resnick - stock.adobe.com; Maurizio Milanesio - stock.adobe.com; Aлисa Kopoлeвскaя- stock.adobe.com; Ukrainian Food Photo - stock.adobe.com

WINE & DINE

On the Truffle Trail

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

Autumn vineyards, Langhe region

ome autumn, every waiter worth his salt, working in the Langhe region of Piedmont in northern Italy, has two words on his tongue: “With truffle?” The inquiry comes with a presentation of said white truffle (the rare Tuber magnatum) on a silver platter … though with their tumor-like form and grayish hue, you could hardly describe them

as “appetizing.” This is the fruiting body of a subterranean fungus, often confused with a mushroom, and in October, at the peak of white truffle season, a kilo can sell for up to €6,000 (about $6,250). THE TRUFFLE CAPITAL Piedmont, which literally translates as “foot of the mountain,” isn’t overrun with visitors like so many other places in Italy (you’ll most likely

know the capital, Turin, being home to Fiat and Martini). Le Langhe, named for its low-lying hills, sits further south in the region and is UNESCO-listed for its outstanding natural beauty, perfect for snail-pace travel and unhurried food. The landscape is impossibly romantic, with dreamy looking fairy-tale castles with slender turrets and ivy-clad towers, set amid forests cobwebbed in mists and awash with

rippling ripe vineyards of the Barolo and Barbaresco winemakers. Their celebrated nebbiolo grapes (the name derived from the Italian nobile, meaning “noble”) have rich notes of violet, cherries, and prune. The truffle capital of the world is the attractive city of Alba, with its main thoroughfare, Vittorio Emanuele, chock full of shops selling all things truffle from the actual gnarly fruiting bodies, when in season,

to truffle-infused oil, cheese, and pasta. From October to December, the Fiera del Tartufo (or “truffle fair”) attracts thousands of visitors, who flock here for the cooking shows, classes, and tastings, while the Knights of the White Truffle gather at the magnificent, red-brick 11th-century Castello Grinzane Cavour to auction the largest of white truffles. In 2018, a truffle weighing around 2 pounds sold for $92,450.

Brought to the nose, the smell is earthy and musky.

Moliterno al Tartufo (Truffle cheese)

Alba, Castle of Grinzane Cavour

Truffle fries

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

Luna the Lagotto Romagnolo

Kate Wickers (x3)

WINE & DINE

Luna and Marta

Once she is sure that Luna is on to something, Marta takes over to scrape gently with a hoe to dislodge the fruiting body without damaging it. LUNA AND MARTA Not content with merely tasting the fungus, I want to find my own, so I set off with truffle hunter Marta Menegaldo and her Lagotto Romagnolo dog, Luna, on a truffle hunt. Originally reared as duck retrievers, this Italian breed is renowned for its superior foraging abilities, and we follow Luna through woods of wild hazelnut and chestnut groves as she runs from tree to tree hoping to catch a scent. Although the ideal time for truffle hunting is from October through December, different varieties are found

throughout the year, and it’s clear Luna loves the challenge. There are around 6,000 official truffle hunters operating with licenses in Piedmont, but in truth, many older truffle hunters remain under the radar of the authorities. Marta and her partner Daniele Stroppiana began their business, Bianco Tartufi, five years ago, inspired by Daniele’s grandmother, Irma, who foraged for mushrooms and truffles long before they were prized. “It’s incredible to imagine that when Irma was foraging, no one had yet put a value on the white truffles.

They simply got tossed into soups to add flavor,” Marta tells me. With an obvious, deep connection with both her environment and her dog, Marta is an anomaly in this maledominated business. “It hasn’t been easy to be accepted,” she says. “My aim is to keep the biodiversity of the undergrowth unchanged and that’s a challenge. Not everyone understands that the work we do here is special because it is all about the smell of the forest, which evokes very powerful emotions and memories, and is part of our heritage.” We watch Luna dig in a frenzy at the roots of

a hornbeam, sending moist, brown soil and the occasional worm flying. Once she is sure that Luna is on to something, Marta takes over to scrape gently with a hoe to dislodge the fruiting body without damaging it. It is a white that Luna’s found, the absolute prize. Marta hands it to me and, brought to the nose, the smell is earthy and musky. Luna’s reward for this treasure is a titbit of black truffle she found earlier (said to have been created when the god Jupiter struck an oak tree with a bolt of lightning). That evening I head to a stalwart on Langhe’s dining scene,

Trattoria della Posta, established as a rest house and stables for passing travelers near Monforte d’Alb in 1875 by Sabino Massolino, the current owner’s great-grandfather. Marta’s advice is to eat truffles simply, so I order a “30 egg yolk” tajarin pasta doused with Alpine butter, with truffles shaved on top. Well, they certainly taste better than they look with rich, delicious flavors of oak, garlic, and, dare I say, mushroom? Spiraling another mouthful onto my fork, I really could not be more content than a Lagotto on a trail in a forest full of truffles.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Available at Diamonds International, Tanzanite International and Luxury of Time DiamondsInternational.com

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CHASE

T hrill

THE

Chase it over the rainforest canopy on a zipline. On a leisurely island tour aboard the Scenic Railway, or through the clouds as you reach Mount Liamuiga’s peak. At every turn, our island invites you to discover something new; something thrilling. Follow your appetite for adventure, and let it lead you to St. Kitts.

VISITSTKITTS.COM

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STYLE & DESIGN

PLANET PLAYGROUND

Safari Chic We’ve assembled some of the must-have items for your expedition.

katiekk2 - stock.adobe.com

A PERSONAL ADVENTURE

Veteran traveler Paul Theroux had this to say about fashionable voyaging: "Travel is glamorous only in retrospect.” We disagree. A far wiser (and more glamorous) traveler, Winnie-the-Pooh, spoke a higher truth when he said: "When you see someone putting on his Big Boots, you can be pretty sure that an Adventure is going to happen." If you're well-prepared for whatever the journey will bring, it shows. Nothing is more glamorous than functional, comfortable gear that’s designed for elegance in any environment.

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STYLE & DESIGN

1. THE FIRST STEP Engineered to stay comfortable over long hikes, Salomon’s Quest 4 GORE-TEX Hiking Boots feel more like your most comfortable sneakers: They flex with your feet for easy movement, yet give enough ankle support to give your legs a break. Breathable panels are fully waterproof, keeping feet dry even when it rains down in Africa (or right here at home).

2. HERE AND NOW Wander with the Apple Watch Ultra 2. It’s got its own built-in GPS unit and cellular connection, a titanium case, and three specialized bands for different purposes: hiking, diving, and working out.

3. & 4. SMOOTH AND SOOTHED Protect your skin from the sun and wind with moisturizing Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream and transparent EltaMD UV Lip Balm, beautifying while blocking UV.

5. PACK IT OUT The Wunderlust Backpack 25L from lululemon is comfortable, water resistant and super easy to pack, with an exterior laptop pocket, straps for a jacket, side pockets for water bottles, and interior pockets to keep everything clean and organized.

6. LOOKING AT YOU Is there any better combination of form and function than the original 1937 Ray-Ban aviators? The Aviator Total Black line takes that perfect design and makes it black, with polarized lenses that can also be customized for prescriptions.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

9. SAFE SIPPING You could mix your own vitamin water or lemonade in Grayls’ Nature Edition Geopress Purifier. But the electroadsorption and ultra-powdered activated-carbon filter can also make nearly any water source sweet and safe.

10. DIVER SNAPS Say cheese through a snorkel with Om System’s TG-7 Underwater Camera. Waterproof, freezeproof, and crushproof, it can shoot 4K and 120 fps movies, go long with a 4x zoom and up close with the 44x macro setting.

11. HERE’S LOOKING AT YOU Spot birds and beasts and faraway places with the Pro Issue 8x42 from Nocs Provisions. Fogproof, waterproof, and scratch-coated, it comes with a far-sighted lifetime “no matter what” warranty.

7. TOWN OR COUNTRY Barbour’s 100-percent cotton Ursula jacket has a bit of everything: tasteful British lines, breathable design, a corduroy collar with buckled leather throat strap, adjustable storm hood, torso belt, and plenty of pockets.

8. MADE FOR SHADE The REI Co-op Sahara Path Hat is half fedora and half bush hat, and that’s fine. It’s made of quick-drying nylon, floats in water, wicks sweat off your brow, and looks good doing it.

photo credits: 1. rei.com 2. apple.com 3. amazon.com 4. us.elemis.com 5. lululemon.com 6. ray-ban.com 7. huckberry.com 8. rei.com 9. grayl.com 10. amazon.com 11. nocsprovisions.com

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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ROADS & RAILS

4 Countries, 2 Wheels, 0 Experience You don’t have to be a pro cyclist to have a successful European bicycle adventure. By Jon Fleming

“B

ut, we haven’t even sat on a bike for four years!” My response to my wife’s idea to embarkon a two-week cycling adventure down the Danube was hardly enthusiastic. But the more I thought about it, the more it appealed. What’s not to love about cycling along beautiful paths beside one of Europe’s greatest rivers, and passing from Germany, through

Austria and Slovakia, before ending up in Budapest in Hungary? By now, I was forgetting about obvious pitfalls like a basic lack of fitness, the toll that cycling takes on the backsides of inexperienced cyclists, and the logistics of carrying all our clothes for two weeks on our bikes. Those were problems for later. Actually, the logistics were surprisingly easy. Rather than go through

a tour company, we decided to do everything ourselves — surely if someone carries your luggage for you, that’s cheating? We found a bike rental company in Vienna that allowed us to leave our bikes with a sister company in Budapest at the end of the ride. They would also provide locks and panniers that could fit our clothes (if we packed extremely lightly).

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PLANET PLAYGROUND CHOOSING THE ROUTE We looked at various online resources, and the route seemed fairly obvious: Fly to Vienna, catch the train upriver to Passau, Germany (this was the most beautiful section), and then just follow the course of the Danube, stopping every 30 to 50 miles. The important thing was that we were following the path of the river, so it was ever-so-slightly downhill — something that you’re very grateful for when you’re cycling for 2 weeks solid. The biggest daily dilemma was whether we should be on the north or the south bank of the river. It turns out that the paths are sometimes better on the north

and sometimes on the south, or that the sights are more interesting on one side or the other. We got plenty of advice on which side to cycle on, and which bridges to cross or ferries to catch, from our hotels or the helpful local tourism offices. The most vital piece of equipment we took turned out to be our padded cycling shorts (although, as a cycling novice, I initially couldn’t work out which way to wear them!), but even so, there’s no denying that our rears were quite tender at the end of a long day of cycling. But the whole experience was more than worth the pain of a couple of sore

Vienna, Austria

bottoms. It was so invigorating to start each morning enjoying the fresh air as we cycled along the misty river. Sometimes the river was mirror smooth, the green hills reflecting mysteriously in its dark waters (in our experience, the Danube never was blue!), and sometimes it was fast-flowing. The wonderful thing was that the landscapes kept changing as we progressed. We moved from enclosed valleys to wide flood plains, from open countryside to large cities, passing by occasional industrial complexes and hydroelectric plants, so there was always something to see.

Budapest, Hungary

Left: Maria Sbytova - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top left: Tracy Fleming (x4); mehdi33300 - stock.adobe.com; Tracy Fleming

Central European country roads

It was so invigorating to start each morning enjoying the fresh air as we cycled along the misty river.

Gyor, Hungary

Bratislava, Slovakia

Esztergom, Hungary

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ROADS & RAILS

PLANET PLAYGROUND

Hungarian Parliament Building

Millennium Monument, Budapest

As Budapest’s spires and towers came into sight, the sense of achievement of reaching our final destination was simply exhilarating.

guesthouses which were rather basic. But what better way to see these countries and visit places that the ordinary tourist wouldn’t think to go to, than to do it at a sedate pace on two wheels? It was fascinating to see the contrasts between sophisticated cities like Linz, Vienna, and Bratislava, with obscure towns like Komarno in Slovakia, and historic Hungarian cities like Gyor. In the more remote places, the choice of food wasn’t always the greatest, but after a hard day’s cycling, we were sometimes just grateful to fuel up — the stodgier the better! In fact, there’s not many vacations where you can take on so many guilt-free calories, safe in the knowledge that they’ll easily be burned off tomorrow. Even in two weeks, we could feel ourselves getting much fitter. At the start, a 30-mile cycle ride left us pretty weary by the time we reached our hotel. But by our final day, we thought nothing of cycling 56 miles to the end of our journey, Budapest. As Budapest’s spires and towers came into sight, the sense of achievement of reaching our final destination was simply exhilarating, and where better to celebrate than a cosmopolitan capital city? However, after 470 miles of cycling, I have to admit that it felt a little strange (and a bit of a relief) to be exploring on two feet rather than on two wheels.

New York Cafe, Budapest

Clockwise from top left: Mistervlad - stock.adobe.com; vrabelpeter1 - stock.adobe.com; Tracy Fleming

INTO THE COUNTRY Although most of our time was spent on paved cycle paths directly by the river, we were surprised to find out that sizable parts of the well-marked Danube Cycle Path weren’t actually on the river itself. Particularly on the Slovakia and Hungary sections, we were on paths alongside country roads, passing through quiet villages. Sometimes there was a wide choice of accommodation, although in smaller villages, you just had to go with what was available, so our choices (we booked online in advance) ranged from boutique hotels set among vineyards, large city-center hotels, to tiny

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Paradise Found

This spectacular island

estate is well suited for

full time residential living,

winter enjoyment, or holidays with family and friends.

Details available by request. +1 340-643-0961 akpbhandari@msn.com ST. THOMAS, USVI

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SHORE LEAVE

PLANET PLAYGROUND

Like Swimming Through a Galaxy In Puerto Rico’s bioluminescent bays, you could be seeing “stars” in the water.

Artem Medvediev - stock.adobe.com

By Richard Varr

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Left clockwise: Omark Reyes; Discover Puerto Rico; Gary - stock.adobe.com Right: bjginny - stock.adobe.com

SHORE LEAVE

I describe this like magic, something amazing.

have the perfect view of a densely speckled starlit sky. I’m floating on my back an hour or so after sunset in warm Caribbean waters as darkness envelops this quiet bay along Puerto Rico’s southwestern coast. I can barely discern the surrounding shoreline, only faintly illuminated by the soft glow of lights from a nearby fishing village. But as I start to swim, I’m now seeing stars of sorts in the water — with each stroke, flashes of light illuminate my legs with an eerie blue-green hue. Specks of light drip down as I raise my arms out of the bay. "I describe this like magic, something

amazing,” says Javier Mendoza with Parguera Water Sports. “It's incredible how these microscopic algae can do what they do.” Mendoza is our catamaran captain on this nighttime kayaking and swimming tour of La Parguera Bioluminescent Bay, one of the three such spectacular natural wonders in Puerto Rico. “One of the most amazing personal experiences is meeting so many people from different parts of the world,” he tells me. “They come to La Parguera to enjoy what I have in my backyard.” If my first time swimming with these glowing organisms — dinoflagellates, they’re called — isn’t perfect

enough, my experience instantly becomes more thrilling when a flash of light streaks across the heavens. A shooting star illuminates the bay around us for maybe a second or two. “Whoa. That was a blessing,” Mendoza marvels.

BRIGHT BIOLOGY

Bioluminescence is a worldwide phenomenon. Some fish, jellyfish, and other creatures deep in the oceans add a flicker of light to abject darkness. On land, fireflies add a glow to twilit pastures and forests. The dinoflagellates in bioluminescent bays and lagoons, however, are only single-celled microor-

ganisms. They’re a kind of plankton, also known as “protists,” with two hair-like appendages called “flagella” that they use to whip themselves through the water. “In simple scientific terms, these organisms contain chemicals, a protein and an enzyme, and whenever agitated create a chemical reaction that you can actually observe,” explains Ashley Perez, an environmental specialist with Kayaking Puerto Rico, which offers nighttime excursions on Laguna Grande, a bioluminescent lagoon on the island’s eastern shoreline. “They produce chemicals that have a blue-greenish hue you can see if there are a lot of them in the water.”

And why do they light up? Mostly to distract predators. “Whenever they glow, predators usually get startled by the light,” says Perez. “Bio bays are very magical places,” she continues. “There’s a lot of bioluminescence in the ocean, but a lot of it occurs below 600 feet. So these are rare opportunities when the organisms inhabit shallow environments that you can actually go to and observe them.” In fact, such ecosystems only occur in warm water bays and lagoons with narrow openings as they’re mostly closed off to the sea. Trapped within the bays, dinoflagellate concentrations thus increase.

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

In simple scientific terms, these organisms contain chemicals, a protein and an enzyme, and whenever agitated create a chemical reaction that you can actually observe.

EVENING OF WONDERS

The number of such bodies of water worldwide varies according to different sources, from only several to a few dozen. But it’s no small wonder that Puerto Rico has three of them — La Parguera located in Lajas, Laguna Grande in Fajardo, and Mosquito Bay along the island of Vieques’ southern coast. Mosquito Bay is noted as having the highest concentration of dinoflagellates. “It’s the titleholder in the Guinness Book of World Records as the brightest

bay in the world,” says Yordi Siverio, the operations manager with Black Beard Sports, which offers nighttime kayaking excursions there. “It’s something that can easily be described as out of this world, like having a lot of fairy dust or magic glow dust going through your fingers when you run your hands in the water.” Bioluminescent brightness can fluctuate through the year as microorganism concentrations vary, influenced by such factors as weather and rainfall. Not surprisingly, moonlight can greatly thwart the ability to see the glow, so tour operators usually avoid bio bay activities within a day

or two of a full moon. Chemicals and lotions including bug sprays, bays, tour operators perfumes, moisturizers, and sunscreen can urge visitors to leave the cameras and cell increase pollution and decrease the number phones behind, since most cannot adequately of dinoflagellates. Thus, capture the dim glow. swimming is prohibited at Laguna Grande and “The bay is best enjoyed by seeing it through your Mosquito Bay, and instead visitors kayak eyes and not through a screen,” insists Siverio. or tour on glass-bottom “Visitors are always boats. Only La Parguera allows swimming. surprised, maybe a little bit timid the first time La Parguera is convenient to visit if they put their hands in the water, but they staying in Rincón or get super excited.” Ponce, while Laguna Grande is the closest “It’s like seeing stars in the water” is how Dalissa bioluminescent wonder Zeda, Discover Puerto to the tourist hub of San Juan. Getting to Rico’s digital marketing Mosquito Bay on Vieques, director, describes however, involves a ferry it. “Like swimming through a galaxy.” Yes, ride or commuter flight maybe like a bit of the from the main island. When visiting these bio heavens on Earth.

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D AY @ SEA

Small-Ship Woman in a

Big-ShipWorld How does an Alaskan adventure traveler adapt to the newest megaship at sea? Viva the Norwegian Viva!

Norwegian Cruise Line

by LISA MALONEY

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rld

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“Hold. Hold!

There’s somebody still in the tube.” V I VA S P E E D WAY G O - K A R T T R A C K

THAT’S NOT WHAT YOU WANT TO HEAR WHILE STANDING ON A TRAP DOOR, WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO PUSH A BUTTON THAT WILL SEND YOU PLUMMETING TEN DECKS DOWN THE SIDE OF A CRUISE SHIP. That trap door was my entry point for The Drop, which Norwegian Cruise Line bills as the first freefall dry slide in the world. I’d boarded Viva — the second in Norwegian’s Prima class of ships — for the latter half of her inaugural sailing from Rome to Lisbon, and wasted no time in finding what looked like the most exciting activity. But that warning, crackling over the radio of the crew member whose job it was to push the “release travel writer” button, gave me pause. His coworker, stationed at the end of the slide and tasked with verifying a 1:1 ratio of cruise passengers going in the top and coming out the bottom, was adamant that he’d heard somebody still in there.

THE DROP

I was first in line for this afternoon opening of the slide, so of course there was nobody in there. But if there had been, that would mean they’d been stuck for hours…. With that image vivid in my mind, I hopped off the trap door and, as the kids might say, noped the hell out of there. I headed past the neighboring Tee Time putt-putt course, did an end run around the Bull’s Eye (cozy ‘80s-esque nooks for playing darts), scooted straight past the entrances to the Viva Speedway go-kart track and The Rush (a less scream-inducing tube slide) and right down the stairs.

ART AT SEA

Norwegian Cruise Line (x3)

NOPE, NOPE, NOPE. NO WAY. I WASN’T EVEN GOING TO WAIT FOR THE ELEVATOR.

If you’re wondering what I thought about the rest of the ship, I’ll start by telling you that I get horribly lost inside buildings and crowds make me twitch. So you can probably imagine how my first few hours aboard a big cruise ship went. But I leaned into it with the help of the ship’s wall-mounted, digital maps that gave directions at the tap of a finger — it all felt very Star Trek — and within a few hours I felt reasonably confident about finding my way. I’ve heard some criticisms of the traffic pattern in Norwegian’s Prima-class ships, and I admit to some bemusement when, for example, I had to walk straight through a restaurant to get from Point A to Point B. But I can see the sense in positioning “sit and stay” places as eddies adjacent to the main traffic pattern, keeping several thousand passengers moving so efficiently that the only real bottlenecks I encountered were, inevitably, at embarkation and disembarkation. But carrying my own bags, and waiting out the inexorable queue, kept even that part of the process relaxed.

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I leaned into it with the help of the ship’s wall-mounted, digital maps that gave directions at the tap of a finger — it all felt very Star Trek .... The ship’s decor helped set me at ease, too. Nowhere is there a bare, sterile hallway or a dead end; and art abounds, from sculpted origami shapes hovering near the ceiling of the lofty Penrose Atrium to sculptures on the Ocean Boulevard outdoor walkways and atrium staircases with organic, earthy-feeling lines that felt like a gentle whiff of Gaudí’s influence. Even the mirrored back walls in the elevators were decorated with streaks of light that made it feel as if you were speeding through space.

But the ship’s true artistic glory is a hallway with one wall completely covered in glass panels, decorated with an abstract pattern of squares. That’s what it looked like at first, anyway. But a small child revealed the truth by dragging her fingers along the glass as she dashed past: Every square she touched came to life as a digital butterfly, fluttering like a living sine wave in her wake. After a few seconds the butterflies went to sleep again, folding their wings back into that abstract pattern and awaiting the next touch.

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THE NORWEGIAN VIVA RUNDOWN LOA: 965 feet BEAM: 144 feet GROSS TONNAGE: 143,535 grt DECKS: 20 CABINS: 1,646 PASSENGERS (MAX): 3,950 DINING: 35 venues, including: • Indulge Food Hall, with 11 eateries including a soft-serve ice cream station • Eight specialty restaurants • 19 bars and lounges, including The Humidor Cigar Lounge and Starbucks, both on Deck 7

AT T R ACT I O N S : • Ocean Boulevard, a 360-degree promenade around all of Deck 8 • Oceanwalk, with two glassbottomed bridges • Atrium, spanning three decks with a 3-ton chandelier, numerous shops, and glass walls with sea views • Viva Speedway, a three-level gokart racetrack • Tee Time tech-immersive mini-golf • Five multi-level waterslides, three dry slides, Tidal Wave • waterslide with inner-tube surfing • Two infinity pools • Two Aqua Deck pools • Four Aqua Deck Jacuzzis (two with infinity hot tubs) • Pulse Fitness Center with Performance Recovery Room • The Haven luxury ship-within-a-ship with its own spa, restaurants, pool, Jacuzzis, and 24-hour butler service • Starlink high-speed internet … and more!

• Beetlejuice: The Musical full-scale show • Icons live sing-along concert featuring six decades of hits • Viva three-story theater and nightclub • Interactive rock shows at Syd Norman’s Pour House • Improv at Sea comedy venue • Family game shows • Behind-the-scenes tours of the bridge and engine-control rooms

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Norwegian Cruise Line

E N T E R TA I N M E N T :

P E N R O S E AT R I U M

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ART ABOUNDS, from sculpted origami shapes hovering near the ceiling of the lofty Penrose Atrium to sculptures on the Ocean Boulevard outdoor walkways and atrium staircases.

AT R I U M STA I R CA S E

AT R I U M N O O K

H AV E N E L E VAT O R

Left clockwise from top left: Norwegian Cruise Line ; Lisa Maloney; Norwegian Cruise Line ; Lisa Maloney Right: Norwegian Cruise Line (x2)

O C E A N B O U L E VA R D

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THE CROWNING TOUCH Two more key features pulled me willingly into the big-ship world, with the first being the Galaxy Pavilion — a virtual-reality arcade. Viva’s version has a new ride I just couldn’t get enough of: The Gyro, a two-person pod that spins and rotates you in every direction as you blast your way through hostile alien bases. But arguably the most perfect thing of all aboard Viva is the Spa Thermal Suite. I am not a spa person — why sit around doing nothing when you could be having an adventure? — but port-day access to the spa was included in my fare. So when a new friend suggested checking it out, I dutifully trailed along and discovered it’s impossible to not relax when immersed neck-deep in a warm pool. Dunking in the neighboring cold pool afterward? Absolutely exhilarating, even if I forgot to read the label that indicated it was actually a saltwater float pool. Oops. I was better at reading labels on the smorgasbord of saunas: Infrared, Finnish, charcoal, salt ... there was also an aromatherapy steam room and, my favorite, the ice room. It feels shockingly good to smooth handfuls of slushy ice over your body right after ducking out of a hot sauna.

S PA T H E R M A L S U I T E

It’s the spa that really turned me into a convert.

Left clockwise from top left: Norwegian Cruise Line ; Lisa Maloney; Norwegian Cruise Line ; Lisa Maloney Right: Norwegian Cruise Line (x2)

It’s the spa that really turned me into a convert. I visited several more times, ending each visit by lounging on a heated chaise with a view over the ocean. Relaxing thoroughly and completely was the last thing I’d expected to find myself doing on a big cruise ship — and yet there I was.

THE FAST WAY DOWN But I’d left one thing undone, and I eventually found myself back at The Drop. I stepped back onto the trap door — and this time I stayed. The attendant pushed the button. If you’ve ever seen those cartoons where a character falls out of frame, leaving some body part — maybe their heart or their head — behind for a moment before it snaps back into place and follows them down, that’s how it felt. My innards rushed to catch up with the rest of me as I fell, and the bend in the slide that I’d thought would slow me down only redirected my momentum into a series of spiraling loops. My voice spiraled with me, a full-throated “AAAAAAAGH!!” that I just couldn’t turn off. But somewhere in the second half of the descent it transformed into a WOOOOOOOOO of excitement, until I shot out of the horizontal tube at slide’s end like a skeeball being returned to its thrower. There was the bottom attendant with his radio, eyeing me quizzically. I guess not everybody emerges from that ride shrieking with joy — but at least there was no doubt about whether I’d gotten stuck somewhere along the way.

G A L A X Y PAV I L L I O N

In fact, I had found the way for someone like me — an independent, outdoorsy Alaskan woman who’s really most at home in the mountains — to feel at home at sea, no matter the size of the ship beneath me.

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CHARTING COURSES

Rare glimpses inside the culinary heart of the cruise experience. We dish up a selection of images by photographer Andrew Maclear, from a decade of cruising on lines such as Oceania Cruises, Cunard, Silversea, Ponant, and Crystal Cruises.

1. Carpaccio of salmon from the galley of Hapag-Lloyd Europa. 2. Finishing touches to an outgoing dish at the Britannia Restaurant on Queen Mary 2. 3. Busy but organized evening service catering to 2,000 people at the Britannia Restaurant on Queen Mary 2.

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Outbound desserts from the galley of Ponant’s small luxury ship L’Austral.

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Chef Frank Garanger samples the freshly baked baquette on Oceania’s Riviera.

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1. Shiny skillets await action on Silversea’s Silver Wind. 2. Floor staff converse during the mid-evening service on Crystal Serenity.

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1. Chef Hiroshi Nakaguchi of the celebrated Nobu franchise on Crystal Serenity. 2. Chef Chris Albersdorfer unwinds with two colleagues at the end of a Silversea evening. 3. Tensions rise in the galley of Queen Mary 2 during a mid-Atlantic sailing to New York.

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Chef Alfred Napotnik and head waiter Bruno Moinheiro in a late evening moment aboard Crystal Serenity.

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Left: Oceania Cruises Right: Ed Rhodes / Superstock

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Toss Your Cane & Play Ball

Left: Oceania Cruises Right: Ed Rhodes / Superstock

A cruise on Oceania Cruises’ Riviera becomes a voyage of unexpected discoveries

I didn’t know what surprises were in store when I boarded Oceania’s Riviera in Miami for its voyage to Central America. The "Atolls to the Yucatan" cruise, from February 10 to March 2, 2023, appeared to be the same kind of luxurious, enlightening trip I’d previously experienced with Oceania. That it was. And more. It was lavish, but the enlightenment, which I’ll explain, lifted my spirits. by Marcia McGreevy Lewis

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ur 20 days proved to be as charming as my companion and I had anticipated, what with the pampering from the staff, the warming of the sun and the uplifting Caribbean breezes. “It’s pillow-chocolate kind of pampering,” said one fellow cruiser. “There’s a lot not to do, and I love that,” said another. “I come to eat. I have lobster every night,” said a third. The cruise’s theme seemed to be: “Your wish is our command.”

Our first stop was St. Kitts. The reggae music whipped up our spirits as we wandered ashore in Basseterre to explore former sugar plantations. On the next stop, Kingston, Jamaica, we meandered through the 19th century buildings. On Dominica, it was encouraging to witness how the community recuperated after the 1995 hurricane.

CONTESTS AND CONTENTMENT

The islands were enchanting, but we had an itch for physical activity, so we decided to join some friendly competition. The staff awarded points for merchandise to encourage passengers to take part. Among the many choices for activity: golf, table tennis, bocce ball, beanbag tosses, and shuffleboard, all available indoors when the wind was blustery. Sports enthusiasts could schedule rallies of paddleball and pickleball. There were mental competitions as well: Daily trivia sessions, crosswords, sudoku, and Mensa quizzes helped rack up those prized points. The biggest point-gatherer was the art scavenger hunt. We worked from a sheet featuring cut-out sections of the art aboard the ship. The challenge was to identify the art from those tiny pieces. We trekked all over the vessel and compared our exasperation as well as victories with fellow art lovers.

THE OCEANIA CRUISES CULINARY CENTER is a classroom and dining room, with chefs leading classes in culinary techniques and teachings guests the unique flavor profiles of regional dishes.

People gathered in various cubbyholes to do puzzles, play bridge, or play mah-jongg. Serious foodies took classes from Julia Child’s former assistant (there’s a dedicated cooking-class kitchen aboard too). Passengers flocked to the historian’s presentations to learn the islands’ history. Elaborate entertainment and numerous excursions integrated adventurers, and sessions on the deck to observe wildlife created a gallery of binoculared enthusiasts. The activities were entertaining, but the opportunity to get to know our fellow travelers was even better.

Left: Oceania Cruises (x3) Right: Walter Bibikow / AWL Images

There were other ways to socialize, of course. Dancers took classes from line dancing to merengue, while all passengers could dance the night away to live music. The creatively inclined enjoyed crafts like bracelet-making and needlepoint, and acrylics class lured those even more artistically inclined. Riviera is one of only two ships afloat with dedicated art studios for classes.

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Left: Oceania Cruises (x3) Right: Walter Bibikow / AWL Images

Ottley's Plantation Inn, an old sugar plantation, is now a hotel and favorite stop on St. Kitts

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Left clockwise: Mediteraneo - stock.adobe.com; NorGal - stock.adobe.com; Constantinis/iStock Photo

Right: Oceania Cruises (x2)

It’s the people you meet when traveling that make the moments you share transformative.

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JOY IN THE JOURNEY

The powerful allure of finding (and playing with) new friends was universal, but one moment was truly remarkable to witness. There were some mobilitychallenged passengers rolling by in wheelchairs or leaning on walkers or canes. I saw first one, and then another actually toss their apparatuses aside to participate in the ship’s activities! It was a stunning demonstration of resilience and determination to see how they disregarded their infirmities and jumped into the competitive spirit. They sometimes won, too … but that hardly mattered. The thrill on their faces said it all. Their enthusiasm showcased the human capacity to overcome obstacles and find joy in the journey. We had set out to have fun matches, and we found so much more — the opportunity to see firsthand the incredible ability of individuals to connect, adapt, and find kindheartedness. It was phenomenal to witness people overcoming their struggles to partake in the contests. “My sciatica was so severe that we needed a distraction, and this was certainly it,” said one woman in a wheelchair. The wonder of the journey and the power of travel and human connection unfolded each day. The burgeoning camaraderie was a testament to the ability of travel to bring people closer. “We have met the most interesting people. Now we greet each other on the ship and arrange dinners with each other,” said a wheelchair-using contestant. Responded another who had tossed her cane: “These activities take me right back to summer camp, and I loved the fellowship then as much then as I do now.” They both agreed that it was uplifting to have made friends who summoned them over when entering a room or scouting a location on deck.

Left clockwise: Mediteraneo - stock.adobe.com; NorGal - stock.adobe.com; Constantinis/iStock Photo

Right: Oceania Cruises (x2)

CONNECTING IN COMPETITION

High winds prevented our docking at the Dominican Republic. Instead we spent another day taking advantage of the activities on the ship. We became pretty good at bocce ball, especially since we had practiced when we spent a few days at sea before reaching Cozumel. At this point, we were well on our way to earning merchandise, but the real pleasure was in these unplanned moments of competition that often led to meaningful interchanges. One couple arranged an upcoming cruise and asked if we’d like to join them. We also exchanged email addresses with several other couples and made plans to visit if another travel adventure brought us to their neighborhoods. Each night, we enjoyed dinner with people who had pounced on our insufficient athletic ability … and with some upon whom we’d pounced. The outcome was irrelevant. What mattered was the conviviality. “No one is going to bring me fresh-squeezed orange juice or call me ‘Madame’ when I leave,” said a canetoting traveler as she bid farewell to her favorite staff person. “Really, what I mean to say is that I’m going to miss you,” she said as she hugged the waitress. I’m going to miss that fellow traveler and the lifeforce she brought with her. It's the people you meet when traveling who make the moments you share transformative — especially when those people are as inspirational as the ones we were fortunate enough to meet on this journey.

OCEANIA FOOD DISCOVERY TOURS offer a different way to appreciate the flavorful cultures of various ports of call.

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GOOD VIBES

Around the World Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.

CRUISE CUISINE GOES DELECTABLY VEGAN The cruise industry keeps providing delicious, wholesome plant-based options to satisfy the appetites of health-conscious guests. Princess Cruises, Carnival Cruise Line, and Disney Cruise Line are just a few of the companies that are upgrading their menus with more tempting vegan options, with Uniworld making similar improvements in river cruising. Recent statistics show that about 50 percent of Americans are “flexitarians” — which means that, while not strictly vegetarian, they are cutting back on meat. Sami Kohen, Princess’ vice president of food and beverage, says: “Our dedication to delivering unforgettable culinary experiences continues to evolve with current trends, including the desire to provide more vegan offerings.” 50

Vegetarian sushi on Princess

Left top to bottom: Yzid ART - stock.adobe.com; Icons-Studio - stock.adobe.com; Princess Cruises Opposite page top to bottom: Emoji Smileys People - stock.adobe.com; Icons-Studio - stock.adobe.com; shorex.koss - stock.adobe.com; Icons-Studio - stock.adobe.com; dannyburn - stock.adobe.com; Icons-Studio - stock.adobe.com; Wallenius

By Alex Darlington

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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BEST LIFE

AN EARTH-FRIENDLY CRUISE KITCHEN And speaking of improving onship food options, Australianowned Aurora Expeditions has just unveiled its new “sustainable food initiative” — fresh, great-tasting meals that satisfy discerning guests while helping maintain our precious planet. Menus are planned and prepared with an eye toward minimizing “food miles” — the distance

between the food’s point of origin and its consumers. The fewer food miles, the less fuel burned, and the lower the carbon footprint. Plus, the food is fresher, too. Concerned about overfishing, Aurora has eliminated fish eggs and tuna. Instead, Aurora’s fare now includes free-range chicken and eggs, grass-fed beef, and produce from Argentina, from where its Antarctic voyages depart.

NOW VISUALIZE A STRESSFREE VACATION….

Travelers seeking relaxation often return from their vacations more stressed than when they left. Racing to catch flights, adjusting to time changes, and wrestling with reservation forms can be exhausting. That’s why more and more European hotels are providing opportunities to practice mindfulness — the soothing mental discipline of being in the moment. For instance: *The Hotel Klosterbrau in Tyrol allows guests to enjoy guided meditations in a 500-yearold monastery. *Sicily’s The Adler Hotel offers a retreat where female guests can practice yoga and meditation. *Guests at The Hubertus Wellness Hotel in Germany can enjoy nature by bathing in a serene lake and taking peaceful forest walks. When booking your next getaway, ask your travel agent about mindfulness programs at your destination.

POWER POP FOR BETTER SHIPS ABBA, the internationally revered pop group, has been giving joy and excitement to hundreds of millions for more than five decades. Now, they’re showing themselves to be environmentally conscientious as well by backing a new generation of windassisted ships. The Swedish megastars are partnering with Wallenius, helping the eco-friendly firm finance and publicize its Oceanbird concept, in which commercial ships are powered by high-tech “wing sails.” ABBA will perform as avatars in several London concerts and donate a portion of the proceeds to Wallenius, while Wallenius, which has named ships after operas up to now, will have the option to name Oceanbird vessels after ABBA songs. “It’s extremely pleasing to be able to join with Wallenius who are as keen on sustainability as we are,” said ABBA member Benny Andersson. PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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GOOD VIBES

Galapagos by Tiny Cat The catamaran EcoGalaxy serves up wild wonders on a grand scale. by Jill Weinlein

wimming next to inquisitive sea lions, adorable penguins, graceful sea turtles, and a multitude of colorful schools of fish was worth taking four airplanes and numerous buses to reach the EcoGalaxy in the Galapagos Islands. The 16-passenger, threedeck catamaran was built to fit ecological parameters for a different kind of cruising. To

preserve the islands’ fragile ecosystem, the state-of-the-art technology aboard includes an optimal energy generator to help reduce carbon emissions. A water system on board treats graywater and reuses it to wash the boat. The vessel’s construction used 50 percent less wood than many ships of its size. There are energy-saving lamps, and the cleaning products and toiletries are biodegradable.

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Left: @ecogalaxyonboard

This page left to right: BlueOrange Studio - stock.adobe.com; Jill Weinlein; Stvn - stock.adobe.com; Jill Weinlein; Noradoa - stock.adobe.com; @ecogalaxyonboard; gudkovandrey - stock.adobe.com

BEST LIFE

LOW-IMPACT LUXURY We chose EcoGalaxy for a 6-day cruise because of its small size and action-packed itinerary. This ship takes passengers to areas providing some of the most incredible up-close wildlife viewing opportunities. On board, however, it’s luxurious, with spacious ensuite staterooms and three

delicious, chef-curated theme meals a day. Wetsuits, fins, and snorkel masks are provided to guests to comfortably endure the chilly Pacific Ocean. The staff constantly works on reducing the negative impact of tourism, while supporting the local population. The experienced crew and the ship’s naturalist attend training programs in conservation and

The ship’s two panga boats took us through mangrove forests and protected coves

wildlife etiquette held to enrich each passenger’s experience. Nothing is to be touched or taken off any island. When viewing wildlife, humans must maintain a 6-foot distance in water and on land. Each day, we visited three different beaches and our naturalist took us on engaging nature walks and hikes. The ship’s two panga boats took

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GOOD VIBES

BEST LIFE us through mangrove forests and protected coves. Highlights of the cruise included visiting the non-profit The Charles Darwin Station. Founded in 1959, this international organization is dedicated to scientific research for the conservation of the environment and the biodiversity of the Galapagos archipelago. Working with the Galapagos National Park, they help to preserve and protect the native species and eradicate the invasive ones threatening the Galapagos environment. One of the most important projects they work together on is reproducing giant tortoises. These beautiful creatures can live to 125 years old on the dry islands. Feeding on giant cactus and other native plants, the giant tortoises and land iguanas thrive and reproduce in captivity here.

SITES FOR SIGHTINGS

Spider monkey

Throughout the cruise we saw green sea turtles, the most common sea turtle species in the Galapagos, pop their heads up for air. At Moreno Point, we walked on black lava rocks to a brackish lagoon to look for flamingos, gallinules, ducks, and herons. Another favorite sighting was at Urbina Bay, just west of Isabela Island. In the 1950s, a large coral reef lifted up above the water, exposing previously submerged land. A sandy path, scattered with shells and coral, led us to orange- and yellow-skinned land iguanas, Darwin finches, and curious mockingbirds. Enormous Galapagos land tortoises left trails with their tails. Flightless cormorants, blue-footed boobies, and penguins stood on rocks or swam nearby. These penguins stand about 1.4 feet. tall, and are the only penguin species living along the equator. While anchored in Tagus Cove, we learned Charles Darwin’s ship, HMS Beagle, had also anchored in this protected area in 1835. We followed the naturalist’s footsteps along a trail through a dry Palo Santo forest to reach the scenic Darwin Lake. When we cruised to Fernandina, the third largest island in the Galapagos, we saw hundreds of black marine iguanas. This island chain is the only home for this marine lizard species. Their salty white face is due to sneezing out the salt they ingest while feeding underwater. They can dive more than 65 feet and swim in a snake-like motion with their flattened tails. While feeding on algae, they hold themselves on the bottom of rocks with their long claws, looking just like mini Godzillas. The cold, plankton-rich waters at Punta Espinosa are home to sea lions and schools of friendly, yellowtailed razor surgeonfish. A highlight of the trip was an inquisitive sea lion swimming underneath me, who stopped directly in front of me to gaze into my snorkel mask. Visiting Puerto Egas, we walked among remnants of human attempts to ranch and colonize the island up to the early 1960s. Following a trail to a picturesque beach and grottos, we learned about the endemic Galapagos fur seals. They share this area with large land iguanas that were reintroduced in 2019. Hiking on the small Rabida island, known for its reddish lava rocks, we observed pink flamingos and gray chicks feasting on crustaceans, plants, and other underwater organisms. Wildlife experiences seem once-in-a-lifetime, but they happen year-round on EcoGalaxy’s 5- to 8-day cruises. For more information: ecogalaxyonboard.com

Galapagos land tortoise

Top to bottom: @ecogalaxyonboard; Konstantin Kulikov - stock.adobe.com

This ship takes passengers to areas providing some of the most incredible up-close wildlife viewing

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SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

Wolfgang Kaehler / Superstock

Q :What filming location is this icy hotspot? (answer on next page)

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SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

(from previous page)

Q :What filming location is this icy hotspot?

in Tongass National Forest, used for Antarctica in John Carpenter�s 1982 classic The Thing.

Kurt Russell

Top to bottom: Travel Alaska; digitalmoviedeals.nbcuniversal.com; Pictorial Press Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo

A: It's Mendenhall Glacier

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Share A Moving Moment Adopt-A-Manatee®

12/17/23 11:20 AM

LELAND & SEA

Alaska Two Ways Steve Leland travels the world in style. Now, he’s sailing the Great White North in Cunard luxury and on an HX adventure.

Queen Elizabeth, Icy Strait Point, Alaska

Cunard (x5)

by Steve Leland

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BEST BEST LIFE

experienced my first peek at Alaska back in 1982 as cruise director aboard the 400-passenger MS Daphne. For three summers, I explored what was then the virtually untouched Inside Passage of Southeast Alaska. Fast-forward 40 years and the secluded towns and surrounding wilderness still hold a special attraction. The summer of 2023 rekindled that affection with two completely different cruise experiences in The Great Frontier. First: although I had never cruised with a queen, I had slept with one for three nights in Dubai — the decommissioned Queen Elizabeth 2, serving as a floating hotel. My rendezvous this time was seven nights of luxury aboard the 21st-century reincarnation of Cunard’s iconic Queen Elizabeth. Second: after previous cruise adventures with Hurtigruten Expeditions (now HX) in Antarctica and Greenland, I jumped at an opportunity to engage with authentic Alaska on a 12-day expeditionary itinerary from Vancouver, Canada, to Seward, Alaska, aboard the hybrid-powered Roald Amundsen.

CRUISING ALASKA WITH THE QUEEN

It’s one thing to cruise Southeast Alaska on just any cruise ship but quite another aboard the likes of Queen Elizabeth, celebrated for her trans-Atlantic crossings, world cruises, and exotic itineraries I’ve spent 40 years cruising, but this was to be my first with Cunard and I was curious to discover how the line had earned its reputation. With a capacity of only 2,000 passengers, the vessel is quite different from its megaship counterparts. The DNA of Cunard’s cruise tradition is expressed in the ship’s superb service and classic interior design. Grand stairways embellished with polished brass and wood, stained-glass ceilings and windows of the opulent Queen’s Room ballroom, and the elegance of the Britannia Restaurant all harken back to the days when cruising was only for the privileged few. In this ambience, the grandeur of Alaska’s spectacular scenery makes the cruise something very special. Imagine yourself enjoying a champagne high tea served by white-gloved waiters as you pass by the imposing Sawyer Glacier.

Breakfast butler service

Britannia Club restaurant

Dine in elegant evening ENJOY A wear as the ship sails through MARTINI the ice flows of the Tracy LISTENING Arm Fjord. Attend the ship’s TO A formal Ice Blue Ball dressed to the nines as the summer STRING sun disappears over a snowQUARTET capped mountain range. IN THE Ask any repeat guest and GIN & FIZZ they’ll tell you seven days is not enough. I’ve cruised BAR’S Alaska dozens of times but THREEnever in this style. It’s far from STORY a party cruise but certainly not ATRIUM. as formal as I had anticipated. Musical entertainment of all genres fills the evening hours; a smooth jazz guitarist in one lounge, a talented harpist in another. Quaff an English ale while toasting an Irish folk duo in the Golden Lion Pub or enjoy a martini listening to a string quartet in the Gin & Fizz bar’s three-story atrium. Guest musicians perform nightly under the glass-domed ceiling of the poolside Garden Room. Swing to the sounds of a big-band orchestra on the dance floor of the Queens Room; or, if a foxtrot isn’t your cup of tea, you can shake a tailfeather with the DJ in the Yacht Club. For dining, guests can choose between assigned times and tables in the upper level of the Britannia Restaurant or dine when you wish in the lower level. A dry-aged, marbled ribeye caught my eye while my wife struck gold with a perfectly prepared Dover sole in the Steakhouse at The Verandah restaurant. The Lido offers more casual buffet dining with the adjacent Frontier Restaurant focusing on regional specialties. The exclusive Britannia Club restaurant is complimentary for guests in the upper categories of staterooms and suites. Onboard activities complement engaging ports of call. Shore excursions in Sitka, Juneau, and Ketchikan reveal nature’s grandeur, while guest lecturers present insight into Alaska’s history, wildlife, and regional culture. Queen Elizabeth offers a distinct niche that may not be for everyone. But if you’re anything like me, I don’t want a cruise for everyone; I want a cruise for me. Cunard strikes a comfortable balance between distinctive cruise tradition and energetic action. PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Left top to bottom: Karsten Bidstrup/Hurtigruten; Espen Mills/Hurtigruten; Agurtxane Concellon/Hurtigruten Right clockwise from top: Oscar Farrera/Hurtigruten (x2); Hurtigruten AS; Oscar Farrera/Hurtigruten; Ray Hansen/Hurtigruten; Oscar Farrera/Hurtigruten

LELAND & SEA

ALASKAN ADVENTURE

Departing Vancouver under a brilliant blue sky, the 530-passenger Roald Amundsen wound its way through a maze of islands headed for the Great Frontier. The backdrop of snow-capped mountains was only a prelude to the majesty that the next 12 days would provide. HX’s cruises are curated by a team of naturalists who hold stimulating lectures on local culture, wildlife, and ecological subjects. Inquisitive minds can discover the secrets of Alaska’s immense biodiversity under the lens of highly specialized Zeiss microscopes or view regional artifacts on board in the high-tech Science Center. For an expedition vessel, Roald Amundsen incorporates a surprisingly luxurious dose of warm, Scandinavian ambience. Staterooms come with personal coffee makers and fridges stocked with soft drinks, beer, and wine. Balconied staterooms, indoor lounges, and outdoor observation decks all provide spectacular views. Dine on regional seafood and international fare in any of the ship’s three restaurants with unlimited complimentary wine and beer. Aune, the ship’s main dining area, provides daily buffet specials as well as à la carte menus. Fredheim is a deli-style venue serving sandwiches, king crab rolls, and international quick bites along with pastries and delicious milkshakes. Lindstrøm has premium à la carte menus complimentary for suite guests and available at a nominal charge for others.

Our first day’s exploration started mid-afternoon. We relaxed in the warmth of the sauna while its wall of windows proffered a glimpse of the snowcapped peaks lining the way to our destination. While passengers from larger ships roamed the sidewalks of nearby Ketchikan hunting down a T-shirt bargain, we sat in Zodiacs gazing up at the majestic granite cliffs of Misty Fjords National Monument. While a sightseeing floatplane punctuated the eerie silence from above, our complimentary excursion glided through the narrow channels for an up-close rendezvous with wilderness as our very own expedition leader shared expert insight. Rather than calling on well-traveled ports that accommodate larger ships, this mode of cruising entails visiting remote destinations. From the little town of Wrangell, one could fly over a tidewater glacier with a flight-seeing excursion. In Petersburg, we witnessed sea lions clamoring aboard a floating buoy as we tendered ashore for a cultural presentation at the Sons Of Norway Lodge. Cruising along the picturesque Lynn Canal, Roald Amundsen called on the small village of Haines, where guests can stroll the streets of the former Fort Seward or raft through the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. An opportunity to witness the rehabilitation of these majestic birds of prey came with a visit to Sitka’s Raptor Center. We could stroll through a dense rainforest scattered with totems of the indigenous Tlingit people. Hiking, rafting, kayaking, and jet-boat adventures are optional excursions with additional cost but a menu of complimentary excursions in each port allows every guest to explore local Alaska.

Aune

Aurora borealis

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William Henry Bay

Totem in Sitka

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BEST LIFE

COMING CLEAN IN THE GREAT FRONTIER

As Alaska cruising has grown, so have local residents’ concerns about the ecological footprint left by larger cruise ships. Hurtigruten has addressed these concerns with technological advances and responsible initiatives. Roald Amundsen is one of the world’s first hybrid vessels, propelled by both efficient Rolls Royce engines and two large battery packs, resulting in a 20-percent reduction in air pollutants and fuel consumption. The company has furthered sustainability goals by eliminating single-use paper and plastics; traditional menu and programs are available on the ship’s proprietary mobile app. All guests are provided with water bottles and refill stations are located on every deck. Sailing HX is a cruise in the technical sense, but being different makes the difference. By extending itineraries beyond the usual 7-day routes, they share the majesty of places like College Fjord and Harvard Glacier, visiting Cordova in Prince William Sound and cruising through the Bering Strait all the way to Nome. Regardless of destination, it’s all about responsible exploration into authentic lifestyles, untamed wildlife, and infinite landscapes.

Northwest Passage

IT’S ALL ABOUT RESPONSIBLE EXPLORATION INTO AUTHENTIC LIFESTYLES, UNTAMED WILDLIFE, AND INFINITE LANDSCAPES.

Expedition team

Bay

MS Roald Amundsen, Tracy Arm Fjord, Alaska

Misty Fjords

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#CruiseForGood

BEST LIFE

COR AL G ARDENING WITH AQUAMAN & WINDSTAR

JASON MOMOA with CORAL GARDENERS

coralgardeners.org / Instagram @coralgardeners (x2)

Hawaiian Aquaman star Jason Momoa works at saving the watery parts of the planet. He recently teamed up with Windstar partner Coral Gardeners to plant nurserygrown corals in damaged reefs in French Polynesia.

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for some, feeling

LEFT OUT lasts more than a moment.

We can change that. We’ve all had moments where we’ve felt we didn’t belong. But for people who moved to this country, that feeling lasts more than a moment. Together, we can build a better community. Learn how at BelongingBeginsWithUs.org

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12/17/23 11:30 AM

“WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU SAW SOMETHING FOR THE FIRST TIME?”

GIZA, EGYPT

Find your next first time at Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine. Subscribe at porthole.com       

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12/17/23 11:21 AM

Porthole Cruise and Travel, February 2024

Articles inside

Porthole Cruise and Travel, February 2024