Porthole Cruise and Travel, August 2024 by ppigroup

Win a

Free Cruise in the RCAs

08.2024

Australian Rails Town-to-tropics train

Coimbra-cadabra Douro’s divine district

Extremadura Gold Olive oil olé!

PARIS WINS (OUR HEARTS)

THE SHOPS, THE SEINE, THE SUMMER GAMES

The Era of

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CROSSING THE POND

THREE DIFFERENT TRANS-ATLANTICS

Big steps forward with Lionel Messi ... and a great big ship

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A NEW WORLD OF CRUISING

SAILING FROM MIAMI | APRIL 2025

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WHERE NO ONE YOU KNOW HAS GONE BEFORE.

Reach untouched lands, seldom visited by other humans, and awaken the pioneering spirit inside of you. Explore the Arctic or the Antarctic, along latitudes and longitudes other ships are unable to access.

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THE WORLD'S ONLY LUXURY ICEBREAKER

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Alaska and Cunard – a perfect match ®

Alaska becomes even more spectacular when you experience it on board Queen Elizabeth.® Spend ample time in port and scenic days visiting Glacier Bay National Park, Hubbard Glacier, or Tracy Arm Fjord. Onboard enrichment brings you deeper into the moment, while our renowned White Star ServiceTM elevates your vacation from ship to shore.

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2025 Alaska Voyages Roundtrip Seattle 11 nights  Jun 12 10 nights  Jun 23 7 nights  Jul 3 11 nights  Jul 10 10 nights  Jul 21 11 nights  Jul 31 10 nights  Aug 11 7 nights  Aug 21 11 nights  Aug 28 10 nights  Sept 8 7 nights  Sept 18

Seattle to San Francisco 10 nights  Sept 18

© 2024 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Elizabeth, and White Star Service are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Contact your Travel Advisor | Call (800) 728-6273 | Visit Cunard.com/Port

5/3/24 12:35 PM

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Crown Brilliant Collection

The Art of Sparkle E X C L U S I V E LY A T

Alaska • Amber Cove • Antigua • Aruba • Bahamas • Barbados • Belize • Bermuda • Cabo San Lucas Costa Maya • Cozumel • Curaçao • Grand Cayman • Grand Turk • Jamaica • Orlando • Puerto Vallarta Roatan • San Juan • Sawgrass Mills • St. Kitts • St. Lucia • St. Maarten • St. Thomas • Taino Bay • Tortola

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

AUGUST 2024

Gold Medals Travel isn't a contest, but some vacations really do win. So I look forward to hearing what you have to say with your votes in our 2024 Readers Choice Awards. There’s a link on page 25, but, as a reward for reading this letter, you can just click here. Have fun picking the winners, and good luck! One lucky voter will get chosen at random to win this year’s prize, an 8-day Alaska cruise for two. Of course, every trip you take is a winner of one kind: It got you out of the house and seeing some of the world! And in this issue, we’re celebrating this year’s Olympic Games in Paris with some medalworthy voyages around the world:

IT’S THAT TIME OF YEAR, when Porthole Cruise and Travel opens up our ballots and asks you what you really think. Do you like this ship or that one? Who’s got the best cruise down the Danube? Which Caribbean port has the finest beaches? No one at Porthole — not even me — knows as much about travel as all of you.

We take the most sustainable cruise on the largest cruise ship in the world, Icon of the Seas, on page 32. • We sample Parisian shopping in our Style & Design department on page 14, and sail from the City of Lights on a painterly trip down the Seine to Normandy on page 50. • We take the world’s largest laps by crossing the Atlantic three different ways on three delightfully different ships on page 42. • We take you along to explore the cozy Portuguese city of Coimbra on page 20 and to taste the golden olive oil of Extremadura on page 24. • We ride the rails up the coast of Australia on page 28, and find winning trips for mobility-impaired travelers on page 62. I think all of these trips are winners, and I hope at least a few of them win a spot in your vacation plans. Until then, onward to victory!

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

See You on Social ! Facebook.com/CruiseTravelBP/ Instagram.com/cruisetravelBP/ Twitter.com/cruisetravelBP Tiktok.com/@CruiseandTravelBP YouTube.com/@CruiseandTravelBP Linkedin.com/company/porthole-cruise-magazine

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Special offers and inclusions are capacity controlled and may be changed or withdrawn from any expedition at any time without notice. Additional restrictions may apply. For full terms and conditions, contact your preferred Travel Advisor or Atlas Ocean Voyages®. © 2024 Atlas Ocean Voyages. Ships’ Registry: Portugal | 3308_04.23.24

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CONTRIBUTORS

AUGUST 2024

BILL PANOFF

Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

LINDA DOUTHAT

Assoc. Publisher/Creative Director

GRANT BALFOUR Managing Editor

SKIP ANDERSON Art Director

SARA LINDA Proofreader

Judi Cuervo

Terry Elward

Elizabeth Martinez

Toby Saltzman

Richard Varr

DANIELLE BRAFF, JUDI CUERVO, ALEX DARLINGTON, TERRY ELWARD, ELIZABETH MARTINEZ, TOBY SALTZMAN, RICHARD VARR, JILL WEINLEIN Contributing Writers

ALAMY, AWL IMAGES, UNSPLASH, TOBY SALTZMAN, RICHARD VARR, JILL WEINLEIN Contributing Photographers

Judi began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular cruise and ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications.

Terry is a writer traveling the world in search of the densest jungle and the finest champagne. Her work has appeared in publications such as International Living, Time Out Istanbul, Taste & Travel Magazine, and on her blog, remarkabletravels.com.

Elizabeth is a former music and nightlife journalist whose love of writing is second only to her love for going on adventures. She finally found the courage to leave her upwardly mobile corporate job in order to follow her dream of returning to writing, visiting new places, and perfecting her photography skills.

Toby pursues her passions for art, history, and nature as a travel writer. Winner of two Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism awards, she seeks out the joy of a place and the soul of the local people, whether trekking through Patagonia, touring vineyards in New Zealand, cruising to far-flung pockets of the world, or embracing the beauty of her home country, Canada.

Richard has written for USA Today, the Dallas Morning News, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Highways, and Home & Away. He authored a DK Eyewitness guide to the Pennsylvania Dutch Country, and his Porthole story on Grenada earned first place in the SATW Central States international stories competition.

SALES OFFICES

Corporate HQ/PPI Group 1500 West Cypress Creek Road Suite 403 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 (954) 377-7777 Email: sales@ppigroup.com

WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President

STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing

BILL PANOFF CEO/Chairman WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF Chief Operating Officer PIERO VITALE Chief Financial Officer LINDA DOUTHAT SVP, Publishing STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing SOREN DOMLESKY Director of Technology

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AUGUST 2024 ISSUE 252 Cover image: Inter Miami CF’s global star, Lionel Messi, walks the deck prior to the arrival of Royal Caribbean International’s largest and most sustainable ship, Icon of the Seas.

Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2024 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Eastern time; email us at subscription@porthole.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year digital subscription (6 issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax. To make address changes or ask questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email subscription@porthole.com

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS. Stop at any of our ports to experience unique culture, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with endless shopping and attractions. Come experience the best the Caribbean has to offer.

St.

J O H N

St.

C R O I X

St.

T H O M A S

VISITUSVI.COM

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CONTENTS

Left: Viking Cruises This page clockwise from top right: Hermes (x2), Ami, Atelier Noboru, Annie Spratt / Unsplash, Tourism Australia, b.illustrations - stock.adobe.com

AUGUST 2024

Day @ Sea

Sizing It Up

French Kiss

Icon of the Seas is Royal Caribbean’s most sustainable ship.

A trans-Atlantic crossing: which kind of ship is the one for you?

A cruise from Paris to the heart of Normandy and back

by Jill Weinlein

by Judi Cuervo

by Toby Saltzman

12Viking Ocean Cruises in New York

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08 Publisher’s Letter 10 Contributors PLANET PLAYGROUND

14 Style & Design Paris: Style. Fashion. Food. 20 Shore Leave There’s magic in this river city …

where the students wear capes and fado music flavors the pasteis. by Elizabeth Martinez

24 Wine & Dine Ancient Phoenicians introduced

olive trees to the Iberian Peninsula 3,000 years ago. by Richard Varr

28 Roads & Rails The railway journey from big-city

Sydney to the jungles and beaches of North Queensland by Terry Elward

Left: Viking Cruises This page clockwise from top right: Hermes (x2), Ami, Atelier Noboru, Annie Spratt / Unsplash, Tourism Australia, b.illustrations - stock.adobe.com

Singapore

Paris

BEST LIFE

60 Good Vibes

News

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington

Getting Around

The best places to travel if you’ve got limited mobility by Danielle Braff

65 Set-Jetting

What famous film shot a scene at this sunny Scottish strand?

67 Leland & Sea

This issue, Steve is touring the Far East aboard Nautica. by Steve Leland

70 #CruiseForGood Silent whale watching

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

Summer S tyle PARIS

Louis Vuitton

Marking the partnership between LVMH and the Olympic Games Paris 2024, Louis Vuitton designers crafted trunks to hold the precious Olympic and Paralympic medals and torches.

L’Aparté Handcrafted using the natural materials of Thailand, the decorative elements of “Foliages” are not meant to mimic plants but to evoke them. Renew your internal world with vines made from mulberry paper, garlands wrapped around electric lights, and glowing camellia flowers in white and black.

H HERMÈS

One of the best-known names in design is coming to dinner with collections of brightly patterned tableware. Each piece of porcelain tells a story, whether it’s a Mosaique au 24 Gold dessert plate (far left) or coordinating Balcon du Guadalquivir dinner and bread-and-butter plates (center).

Atelier Noboru

Embroidery crawls, hops, and flies to life at this studio dedicated to haute couture embroidery using Lunéville hook and needle work to create the likenesses of beautiful insects. Each piece is unique, made as much as possible from vintage materials, including pearls and cabochons dating from the 19th century to the 1970s.

Empreintes Paris This studio calls itself “La Marketplace Des Métiers D’Art” which can mean a marketplace for artistic crafts … or for artistic careers. There are thousands of artisan-made objects and well-crafted tools of many trades, from secateurs to ceramics, elegant mirrors to colored-glass manta rays, wooden chess boards to musical ceramic eggs.

Louis Vuitton, Atelier Noboru, L’Aparté, Empreintes Paris, Hermès

STYLE & DESIGN

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Lead

FOLLOW OUR

When it comes to summer in St. Kitts, do as the Kittitians do. Spend the day limin’ at a beach bar or under the shade of a

palm tree. Join the crowds at Warner Park for an exhilarating

cricket game. Taste your way across the island’s restaurants, or

take the road less traveled to the top of Mt. Liamuiga. Summer here is special. Different. Do it our way to see what we mean.

VISITSTKITTS.COM

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fashion

STYLE & DESIGN

LE MODE

FRANÇAIS

Claudie Pierlot Accessorize easily with fun fashion that’s also made mostly from sustainable materials using processes that are better for the environment. Leather loafers, boxy Anouck bags, sailor shirts, dual-color rectangular glasses … all possess timeless simplicity and are assembled with care for the future.

PLANET PLAYGROUND

ami Is it dressed down or dressed up? This bucket hat in smooth nappa leather makes a statement, with ami founder Alexandre Mattiussi’s name in metallic studs outside and a comfortable cotton gabardine lining within. AMI (the name means “friend”) makes luxury friendly by blurring the boundaries between easy-going casual and upscale chic apparel. Mattiussi draws inspiration from cinema, ballet, and the city of Paris itself, expressed in everything from form-fitting tank tops to freshwater pearl pendant earrings engraved with the heart-A logo.

Jacquemus Le chemise Simon (“the Simon shirt,” left) is a bold enough statement for any fan of the arts, but this firm also has whimsically retro striped swimsuits, light suits, and a collection of “objects” ranging from designer playing cards to a matching lounge chair (because who doesn’t want the patio to coordinate with the poker game?).

Mercí

Rouje These lambskin Philea Mules are made in Italy, but the taste is totally Paris. This women-led atelier “with an appetite for beautiful things” celebrates every detail of femininity, whether it’s floral slit skirts or tortoise-design iPhone cases.

Claudie Pierlot, Ami, Jacquemus, MercÍ, Rouje

It’s easy to feel grateful for such comforts as these. Leopard-pattern ballerina slippers, children’s bedding, cozy cardigans (left), and, yes, knit toques for winter (above) and sun hats for summer. The store also carries a tasteful selection of international brands, as well as designs from a super-cute teamup with Snoopy called “Peanuts x Merci.”

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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CRUISE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD

WE LOVE CRUISING!

PortMiami.biz #WeLoveCruising

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food

STYLE & DESIGN

PLANET PLAYGROUND

LE GOURMET

Guy Savoy

FRANÇAIS

If you’d care for a seven-course luncheon, or equally indulgent dinner, of classic French cuisine, then get a reservation here by all means. Each dish is movement in a symphony of colors, textures, and flavors, from the artichoke soup with black truffle to an “open” mille-feuille with Tahitian vanilla.

Arpège Though raised with decades of experience slow-cooking meats, Chef Alain Passard has given this three-star restaurant a mission: to elevate the humble vegetable to a grand cru. His techniques change with the seasons, but always uncovering the most delicious potential of organic, seasonal veggies … like a carpaccio of scallops and radishes, salt-crusted beets, vegetable tartelettes, or a rose bouquet pie.

Dishes Bernardaud designed by Bruno Moretti for Guy Savoy

Bokko

Bokko offers authentic Korean cuisine elevated by a city that loves (and demands) the art of the chef. Here, you can enjoy hot tteokbokki (rice cakes in pepper sauce) or share dakgalbi (stir-fried chicken and veggies) alongside fried chicken with

mayonnaise and wasabi sauce. Wash it down with a yuzu soda … or with a French wine thoughtfully paired to the spicy main course … and finish with a sweet red-bean mochi dusted with black sesame. Deliciousness is a universal language.

“The Five” located in the Four Seasons Hotel George V, but serves as a showcase for Brittany-born Chef Christian Le Squer to draw out unexpected flavors, amplifying simple ingredients into a high art. He’s earned three Michelin stars here, with dishes like line-fished sea bass with caviar and buttermilk, or spaghetti gratin formed into a palisade around truffle, ham, and artichoke.

Arpège, Guy Savoy, Bokko, Le Cinq

Le CINQ

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Available at Diamonds International, Tanzanite International and Luxury of Time DiamondsInternational.com

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SHORE LEAVE

The Charm of Coimbra There’s magic in this river city … where the students wear capes and fado music flavors the pasteis.

Left: Arseniy Krasnevsky - stock.adobe.com. This page clockwise from top: Passaporte Coimbra (x2), Luciano Queiroz - stock.adobe.com

by Elizabeth Martinez

20University PORTHOLE of Coimbra CRUISE & TRAVEL

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

hile the bustling capital city of Lisbon, the rolling hills of the Douro Valley, and the scenic beaches of the Algarve are some of the most popular spots to visit in Portugal, the cozy and quaint town of Coimbra is worth a visit all on its own. One of the country’s oldest cities, nestled amid the vastly picturesque landscape of central Portugal, Coimbra boasts the trifecta of travel: rich history, undeniable charm, and vibrant culture.

Left: Arseniy Krasnevsky - stock.adobe.com. This page clockwise from top: Passaporte Coimbra (x2), Luciano Queiroz - stock.adobe.com

PERFECTLY PORTUGUESE

Once the capital of the country, the city of approximately 150,000 people is the perfect spot for travelers seeking natural beauty, stunning medieval architecture, a variety of flavors, tempting shopping, and traditional music. Perched on either side of the winding Mondego River, the city’s riverfronts are robust with green spaces such as the tree-lined Parque Dr. Manuel Braga and the adjacent Parque Verde do Mondego. Both serve as top spots for recreational activities, city events, and more. Connecting the north and south side of the city is the unique Pedro e Ines footbridge, which features two cantilevered walkways that meet in the middle and have clear, colored panels that, depending on the time of day, create vibrant patterns on the span. Leave the slight bustle for a bit and cross the bridge to catch a game of canoe polo or walk to the ruins and museum of the Santa Clara-aVelha convent. This mosteiro was destroyed by flooding in the 17th century and replaced by the Santa Clara-a-Nova convent (velha=“old”; nova=“new”) just a short walk up the road. Be prepared to head uphill but then be rewarded with a splendid view of the river and the cityscape. Also close is the stunning and uber-historic Quinta das Lagrimas Hotel, which has several restaurants and courtyard gardens that make for a perfect stop to sample a cool beverage or tasty snack before heading back over the bridge.

Passaporte Coimbra

COIMBRA FADO

The traditional fado of Coimbra is linked to the medieval university and the serenading troubadours. Musicians don the dark robe, cape, and leggings of the academic outfit (traje académico) and play soulful music on the 12-string guitarra de Coimbra.

LOCAL FLAVORS

Before the sun sets, ask a local for another great viewpoint and you will surely hear about the popular Passaporte. The walk up to the restaurant and bar is a bit challenging but worth every inclined step for the impeccable service and striking views. Even if the offerings come with a heftier price tag compared to other spots in town, all of Portugal is reasonably priced so splurging just a little shouldn’t break the bank and delectable dining anywhere in Coimbra shouldn’t, either.

On the lively Rua da Fernandes Tomas Street, you’ll find plenty of cafes and restaurants offering local cuisine including chanfana, a traditional Portuguese stew made with goat or lamb slow cooked in red wine. Another local favorite is the leitao a bairrada, a roasted suckling pig usually served with homemade potato crisps and orange slices. Both are hearty, satisfying, and popular with locals as well as travelers. It’s also impossible to leave Coimbra without having bacalao, the salted cod that is found in so many local dishes. One popular favorite at the tascas (Portuguese taverns) are the pasteis de bacalhau,

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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Left clockwise from top: Taberna d'Almedina, Sebastian - stock.adobe.com, Zina Seletskaya - stock.adobe.com Right page clockwise from top: Lindasky76 - stock.adobe.com, António Duarte - stock.adobe.com, Tito Andrade / Unsplash, Paulo Victor / Unsplash

SHORE LEAVE

Suspiros

small codfish cakes, usually round or oval in shape, that are deep-fried and served with lemon for zest. On the sweet side, try the pasteis de santa clara (named after the convent where they originated) found at dozens of pastry shops and cafés around town. Or, sample the sometimes-gigantic suspiros, meringue puffs made primarily from egg whites and sugar and piped into delicate, cloud-like shapes that make them even more fun to eat. Top any of these off with a ginja, the country’s local liqueur made from sour cherries and often served in an edible chocolate shot cup.

MOVING SIDEWALKS

Decorative tilework

Walk off the delicious food (and sweets!) meandering around quaint squares surrounded by colorful buildings featuring medieval styling and some of the decorative tilework that Portugal is known for. Relish the not-always-faint sound of traditional fado music — consisting of one voice, one Portuguese guitar, and one viola — seeping through the doors of local night spots. Plan to end the evening at Taberna d’Almedina, a spot famous for its spirited outdoor live music performances. Many evenings feature professional buskers covering every kind of tune into the wee hours … so don’t be surprised to hear the entire square singing along to a classic Beatles or Pink Floyd song.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

Coimbra’s main street, Rua Ferreira Borges, and its continuation, Rua Visconde da Luz, are at the heart of the historic center and feature interesting historical spots sitting alongside shops, more cafes, and hole-in-the wall tapas bars. Local artisan wares line the walls of distinctive but usually diminutive shops selling local crafts such as scarves, decorative tiles, and second-hand antique relics. And since Portugal is home to the largest area of cork oak forests in the world, you’ll find plenty of cork clothing, accessories, trinkets, and souvenirs.

Rua Ferreira Borges

CHARMING SCHOOL

CAPA E

This same area is also the city’s cultural BATINA uniforms are a center, and nothing commands a cultural symbol of the presence more than the Universidade de university's Coimbra, a prestigious university and rich traditions. UNESCO World Heritage site, established They date back to the in 1290. The campus is home to the famous Middle Ages Joanina Library, a beautifully ornate when these building that houses a collection of one-ofinstitutions of a-kind books and manuscripts. Another higher learning showpiece at the university is the Pátio das were associated with the Escolas, a vast courtyard surrounded by church. majestic 16th- to 18th-century buildings. The soul of the university, however, is its students. Like a scene from a Harry Potter novel, here, the students wear long black cloaks and full suits to school and around town. Known as capa e batina (“cape and cassock”), the uniforms are a symbol of the university's rich traditions. They date back to the Middle Ages when these institutions of higher learning were associated with the church. The outfit resembles clerical garb but, more beautifully, represents the equality and unity of the students and helps transcend any social and economic differences amongst them. The suit worn underneath consists of a white shirt with black trousers for men and black skirt for women (who also wear stockings), and black shoes to complete the look. The long, black, wool cape is traditionally draped over the shoulders but can also cover the entire body. Visually stunning, the image of students wearing the black cloak and suit is part of Portugal’s — and especially Coimbra’s — culture and tradition. It confirms why this ancient city is unrivaled at preserving history while still building for a future through its students, its everevolving food scene, and its lively culture.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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WINE & DINE

PLANET PLAYGROUND

Spanish Gold It was the ancient Phoenicians who introduced olive trees to the Iberian Peninsula 3,000 years ago.

Casther - stock.adobe.com

by Richard Varr

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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It’s time to vote and we want to hear from you!

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What are you doing May 13, 2025? If you vote and enter to WIN the grand prize, you might be boarding Riviera to spend eight-days in Alaska!

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WINE & DINE

lone farmer rakes the grassy grove, collecting the olives that he’s just swatted off his trees, plum-red, green, and black-tinted. “I have a machine that holds a branch and shakes it, or we have a pole to hit the branches,” says Claudio Perez Fernandez whose family has owned olive groves here for generations. “These trees can be 400 years old, as you can see their wide trunks,” he says, while showing us his yield: two crates of the multi-colored fruit. It’s harvest time in Extremadura’s rural Sierra de Gata, a mountainous region along the Portuguese border, just south of Spain’s province of Salamanca, where olive groves are seemingly everywhere. They cluster amid vineyards, forested hillsides, and sheep-filled pasturelands. They grow near scenic villages that nestle within verdant valleys and pop out on hilltops alongside castle ruins. We met Perez while hiking on a path lined with olive farms on the outskirts of San Martín de Trevejo, a village with half-timbered homes, where water running off the mountains trickles down grooves on cobbled streets. It was the ancient Phoenicians who introduced olive trees to the Iberian Peninsula 3,000 years ago, and since then crops flourished and have become — particularly in this region — a traditional part of everyday life. “We are in a mix of stones, of geology, nature and landscapes, but around all areas we see those olives groves,” explains Eduardo Mostazo, a local outdoor guide leading our hike. “They are so important for us, for everything.”

OLIVE OIL MILLS: A THING OF THE PAST AND PRESENT

Left: NannaKirkegaard - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top: Richard Varr (x3), Ryzhkov - stock.adobe.com vitals - stock.adobe.com, Daniel Täger - stock.adobe.com

Our group is spending three nights near the town of Villamiel at the Aqua et Oleum hotel, a name meaning “water and oil” in Latin, and no doubt appropriately named. “This was an actual olive oil mill opened in 1920,” says hotel manager Sophia Lindemann. “The creek next to us was the engine of the mill. You can see the big water wheel on the outside wall.” Inside, gears and pipes and the actual stone wheels atop the olive-crushing pit remain. “The olives got pressed and the oil would flow into stone barrels in the floor,” adds Lindemann, further explaining how workers burned the dried mash in the fireplace to keep warm. “They probably processed about 800 to 1,000 liters of oil a day working day and night shifts.” The mill closed in the early 1980s. There’s a stark comparison, however, between yesteryear’s presses and modern olive oil mills. At the As Pontis mill in nearby Eljas, conveyor belts transport the ripened fruit to steel vats where olives are washed and then crushed, squeezing the viscous oil from the sludge-like brownish mash while draining any water content. As Pontis specializes in making high-quality “Vieiru” brand extra virgin olive oil from the region’s bountiful green manzanilla cacereña olives. “Extra virgin basically means it’s the natural oil of the olive that was extracted by a mechanical process and nothing else,” explains As Pontis Quality Manager Ana Isabel Alonso.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

SIERRA DE GATA’S HISTORIC VILLAGES When approaching Robledillo de Gata, I see a sign declaring this is one of Spain’s most picturesque villages and I can’t disagree. Creekside homes front vineyards and olive groves creeping up the grassy mountainside. A church bell chimes on this Sunday morning as we walk along vacant cobbled streets, but we eventually meet a few of the town’s 90 residents in a shop where cured legs of acorn-fed pigs — famous for Spain’s popular ham, jamón ibérico — hang from the ceiling.

Olive mill at Aqua et Oleum hotel

FULL-BODIED OR FERMENTED?

Left: NannaKirkegaard - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top: Richard Varr (x3), Ryzhkov - stock.adobe.com vitals - stock.adobe.com, Daniel Täger - stock.adobe.com

Olive-oil tastings in Sierra de Gata seem to be as common as wine tastings in vineyard regions. At A Velha Fábrica, a hotel housed in what was an old textile factory and olive oil mill, l can easily discern the difference when sampling virgin and extra virgin oil. The virgin oil tickled my tongue, which to me indicated fermentation. The extra virgin, on the other hand, seemed flavorful and smooth. “If there are any defects of the olive — actually opened or sitting too long in the container with a possibility of fermentation — it’s then just virgin olive oil,” explains Alonso. “Extra virgin has no defects. It should always taste healthy and fresh.”

Jamón ibérico

We also visit the town’s olive-oil museum, Molino del Medio, in a restored 20th-century mill with the original belt-driven mashing pit and storage tanks. “In the 20 villages of Sierra de Gata, there were 90 oil mills,” recalls museum owner Julio Rodríguez-Calvarro, who pours us a tasting of his family’s own olive oil. “Here on the south side of the mountains, they took advantage of the water and sun for planting the trees.”

WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

“I like harvesting olives and do it for the pleasure of it.”

Plump green olives served alongside locally-aged sheep and goat cheeses, thinly-sliced jamón ibérico, and wines from area vineyards are typically found on Extremadura dinner tables. And, of course, bread dripping with the region’s delicious extra virgin olive oil. “We use olive oil every day at home,” says Mostazo. “I like harvesting olives and do it for the pleasure of it.” He continues with an admission: “It’s in our genetics — we cannot choose. If you have olive groves, you have to continue managing them like our grandparents and parents have done.”

Robledillo de Gata

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PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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ROADS & RAILS

Tropical Tracks The railway journey from big-city Sydney to the jungles and beaches of North Queensland reveals some of Australia’s many faces.

Left: Australia Tourism This page clockwise from top: Nathan White Images - stock.adobe.com, Kitch Bain - stock.adobe.com, Queensland Rail (x3)

by Terry Elward

Bondi Beach

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

n enormous country like Australia has a lot of land to cover, but fortunately the beautiful eastern coast is easy to explore by rail. This exciting journey involves two legs: Sydney to Brisbane and then Brisbane to Cairns. A standard long-distance train known as the XPT (“express passenger train”) takes you from Sydney to Brisbane (though it actually starts as far south as Melbourne). Brisbane was connected to Cairns by an old route known as the Sunlander, which was replaced in 2013 by The Spirit of Queensland. There’s plenty of beautiful places to stop off along the coast, and it’s perfect for lovers of food, wine, and beer. More than anything, this trip is perfect for animal lovers. Let’s have a look at the journey and the vehicles in detail.

Left: Australia Tourism This page clockwise from top: Nathan White Images - stock.adobe.com, Kitch Bain - stock.adobe.com, Queensland Rail (x3)

SYDNEY TO BRISBANE

The initial leg of the journey is approximately 14 hours and can be done in a day, as trains start from 7:08 a.m. An overnight sleeper is also available for a higher price. Both the economy and first-class cars are air conditioned and access a buffet car selling Australia’s favorite train fare, the Aussie meat pie. Tickets in both classes usually are priced at 50-100 Australian dollars ($33-$67) for a one-way journey, making it a very affordable way to travel interstate. The trip takes us to country towns and coastal settlements of Northern New South

Castanets

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Wales, throughout the flat floodplains to riversides and seaports along the Pacific Ocean. In the dusk hours, expect to see wallabies and kangaroos bounding around — or simply staring at the train from a distance in stunned silence. The XPT power car features a Paxman VP185 12-cylinder, turbo-charged diesel electric engine (1,492 kW or 2,000 horsepower). At each end of the train is a power car, one pulling and the other pushing.

BRISBANE TO CAIRNS

This is the big trip, and is far more opulent than the first leg. From Brisbane’s Roma Street Station to Cairns is 25 hours. A diesel-powered, modern Tilt Train service runs several times a week so it can be split over in two or three days, or you can grab an overnight bed

IN THE DUSK HOURS, EXPECT TO SEE WALLABIES AND KANGAROOS BOUNDING AROUND — OR SIMPLY STARING AT THE TRAIN if you’re eager to get to the tropics as soon as possible. Economy seats start at around AU$150 and RailBed seats can cost as much as AU$350 per one-way fare. All cars are air conditioned and fully accessible. Economy seats are comfortable and feature entertainment screens, USB powercharging points, and a tray table. RailBeds are more spacious and luxurious seats similar to a business or first class flatbed on a plane. They convert to a bed for overnight travel, and also include bed linen. RailBeds are limited in number so be sure to book the trip well in advance for a high-end experience. The journey through Queensland boasts

the most picturesque sights to see or stop off and visit. You’ll pass the sugarcane fields of the Burdekin River Delta, ancient

and tiny settlements with quaint railway stations, and interesting towns like Rockhampton, famous for its historically beautiful and lively pubs on every corner, each one unique. Pub culture is very strong in Queensland, with the pub being the social center of the town for several generations.The local pubs are famous for large meals; locally brewed, ice-cold beer or ginger beer; and live music and events on weekends. Some have a swimming pool or a kid’s play area. Try Rockhampton’s 140-year-old Gracemere Hotel or the Great Western Hotel, known for its bull riding and rodeos. Back on the train, The Spirit Of Queensland offers meals included in the fare and delivered to your seat. You’ll be treated to hot breakfasts and fresh coffee.

Aussie meat pie

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PLANET PLAYGROUND

The menu has local flavors of Queensland, like Aussie Beef and Barramundi (a fish seasoned with bush spices), and desserts made with Far North Queensland mangoes and Australian passion fruit. Australian wine and beer and even local soft drinks are available for purchase. Special dietary requests can be

arranged in advance. Once you arrive in the beautiful town of Cairns, there is one singular experience to be had: Cairns is only a 2- to 3-hour trip by car or tour bus to the Daintree Rainforest, an untouched jungle paradise and World Heritage site. You can take a boat trip and a walking trail to see some of Australia’s

unique wildlife such as the cassowary, a large and iconic bird endemic to the Daintree. There are crocodiles to marvel at from the safety of a tour boat and other beautiful locals, like the colorful and tiny tree frogs, spiny echidnas, jewel-like tree snakes, and the cute tree kangaroos and bandicoots. This

type of safari can not be found anywhere else in the world.

TRAVEL FURTHER OFF THE TRACKS

There’s no need to stick to the train line. Buses and boat trips for exploring farther afield are available. The Spirit

of Queensland offers a coach connection to the famously beautiful, white sands of Airlie Beach, next to the Whitsunday Islands on the Great Barrier Reef. Tropical adventures to see the rain forest can be booked on the Queensland Rail Travel website for trips of up to nine days.

Andrew Atkinson - stock.adobe.com Stephen - stock.adobe.com, AGAMI - stock.adobe.com, FiledIMAGE - stock.adobe.com

ROADS & RAILS

Whitsunday Island

Daintree frog

SEE SOME OF AUSTRALIA’S UNIQUE WILDLIFE SUCH AS THE CASSOWARY, A LARGE AND ICONIC BIRD ENDEMIC TO THE DAINTREE.

30 PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL Jindalba Boardwalk

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Cassowary

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Royal Caribbean International

D AY @ SEA

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Ecological Icon ICON OF THE SEAS IS ROYAL CARIBBEAN’S MOST SUSTAINABLE SHIP by Jill Weinlein

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Royal Caribbean International (x3)

icking off 2024 with a sailing on Icon of the Seas from Miami, Florida, I learned that this “largest ship at sea” has been a dream of Royal Caribbean Group for years. President and CEO Jason Liberty, speaking at the ship’s naming ceremony in January, shared: “Icon of the Seas is the culmination of more than 50 years of dreaming, innovating, and living our mission to deliver the world’s best vacation experiences responsibly.” Throughout the cruise, I had the opportunity to chat with executives and officers to learn more about the sustainability of this 1,198-foot-long, 20-deck ship. “Icon of the Seas is Royal Caribbean’s most sustainable ship today,” said Liberty. “Every ship class is getting more efficient. The Oasis class was 20 percent more efficient than the class before, and now the Icon is even better.”

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For more than 30 years, Royal Caribbean Group’s sustainable practices focused on discovering lower-carbon energy solutions. “We launched our ‘SEA the Future’ initiative as both a platform and a pledge to uphold our values.” said Liberty. ‘SEA’ is an acronym for the cruise line’s commitment to Sustain our planet, Energize communities and Accelerate innovation.

THINKING GREEN

A team of architects and designers built Icon of the Seas to carry up to 7,600 combined guests and crew. I learned that a ship this size has many sustainable innovations from the bow to the stern.

During a day at sea, I met with Nick Rose, Vice-President of Environmental and Sustainability Management for Royal Caribbean. “Throughout the ship, LED lights provide a reduction in energy use and produce less heat,” he said. “The lubrication systems have microscopic bubbles that coat the hull and help to reduce friction for a smoother ride.” Another buzzword I heard often throughout the cruise was “LNG”: the ship’s liquefied natural gaspowered engines. “The six dualengines have the ability to use LNG. This cleaner fuel emits about 25 percent less carbon dioxide than traditional marine fuels,” said Rose. The company is also testing biofuels as an alternative fuel in

“The ship’s recycling program ensures that more than 90 percent of trash never reaches a landfill.”

Royal Caribbean International (x3)

the planning of future ships. Symphony of the Seas became the first ship in the maritime industry to successfully test and use a biofuel blend in Barcelona. The Port of Barcelona is working to become an energy hub, producing and supplying zero-carbon fuels, such as green hydrogen, methanol, and synthetic fuels.“With the successful trial of biofuels on the Royal Caribbean International’s Symphony of the Seas and Celebrity Cruises’ Celebrity Apex, the company is hopeful to achieve its goal of net-zero cruising by 2035,” said Rose. These biofuel blends were tested and accredited by International Sustainability and Carbon Certification (ISCC), a globally recognized organization that ensures sustainability of biofuels and verifies reductions of related emissions. “Every kilowatt used is scrutinized for energy efficiencies and reduction in emissions,” said Rose. Excess heat from the engines is repurposed into warm water for the ship. Icon has also been designed to plug into local power grids on shore at ports where it is available, further reducing the ship’s environmental footprint. 35

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EXPERIENCE AND ENERGY

Stepping into my spacious stateroom with a balcony, I realized the room was designed with an occupancy-based air conditioning control system. When I opened my balcony door, the air conditioning switched off. This optimizes energy consumption in staterooms.

Another day while at sea, I toured Captain Henrik Loy’s bridge and learned how AI-based technology helps optimize the ship’s routes for maximum efficiency. Later when I took a tour of the ship’s onboard treatment system and recycling area, I learned that the water is treated above the regulatory standards. The state-ofthe-art waste management room

Royal Caribbean International (x4)

has a single-stream recycling process. “We use microwaveassisted pyrolysis technology to turn trash into energy on board,” said Rose. “The ship’s recycling program ensures that more than 90 percent of trash never reaches a landfill.” The ship also has a desalination plant on board. “After water is treated, one could drink it, it’s that clean,” said Rose. “About 93 percent of the fresh water produced on board is via reverse osmosis.” Royal Caribbean Group helps protect the sea by collaborating with Save The Waves. Since 1992, they’ve ensured that no solid waste goes overboard. Royal Caribbean Group was the first in the industry to launch a variety of environmental initiatives to help reduce their environmental footprint and protect the ocean communities. They also partner with scientists at University of Miami’s OceanScope program to collect and share critical ocean data using their ships across the world. Since partnering with the World Wildlife Fund since 2016, they help track polar bears in the Arctic, and support conservation across the Great Sea Reef region.

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Ultimate Family Townhouse

Royal Caribbean International (x4)

The stunning three-story 1,772-square-foot Ultimate Family Townhouse is a beach house–style stateroom that sleeps up to eight guests.

Ultimate Family Townhouse

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Overlook

I also learned that the Royal Caribbean Group reads every passenger’s after-cruise survey. “Passengers have a voice,” said Liberty. “We reach out to our guests to determine how we can improve their cruise experience.” Since guests want to move easily from the moment they board the ship to the day they disembark, the designers of Icon of the Seas included escalators to help with movement on and off the ship. I will attest that it did make boarding and disembarking safer, easier, and faster. Wandering around the ship, I explored most of the 40 different restaurants, bars, and lounges, plus 28 different cabin categories in seven different neighborhoods. Over at the Surfside family-style neighborhood, the stunning three-story 1,772-square-foot Ultimate Family Townhouse is a beach house–style stateroom that sleeps up to eight guests. Not only does this one-of-a-kind suite have an in-suite slide, it also offers a movieviewing room, gaming area, ensuite primary room, and private Jacuzzi on one of the many terraces. The open-air Central Park neighborhood has 20 percent more trees and vegetation giving off oxygen from 33,500 plants. This serene area displays stunning artwork, restaurants, and outdoor bars. “Couples and families shared on the survey how much they enjoy spending time at the

From left: Jill Weinlein, Royal Caribbean International (x3), Alamy Stock Photo

FOR THE CRUISERS

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pools and water park,” shared Liberty, “so the Icon of the Seas offers 62 percent more water and seven different swimming pools.” One of those seven swimming pools is the first suspended infinity pool at sea, located at The Hideaway neighborhood’s beach club. Other outdoor water fun includes a six-slide water park at the largest water park at sea. The new Crowns Edge is where passengers can be harnessed 154 feet above the ocean to follow a thrilling ropes course with standing platforms. In mid-July 2024, Royal Caribbean is debuting a new Iconclass ship, Utopia of the Seas, sailing into Port Canaveral for shorter getaways on 3-night weekend and 4-night weekday cruises. Icon of the Seas sails 7-night itineraries from Miami to a variety of Caribbean destinations that include Puerto Rico, St. Kitts, and Cozumel, Mexico. Most of the cruises stop for a perfect day at CocoCay, Royal Caribbean’s private island in the Bahamas.

From left: Jill Weinlein, Royal Caribbean International (x3), Alamy Stock Photo

look

THE ICON OF ICON ON JANUARY 25, THE LARGEST PASSENGER SHIP at sea was named by history’s most-decorated fútbol player, Lionel Messi — seven-time Ballon d’Or winner, World Cup Champion, and now the star member of David Beckham’s Inter Miami soccer team. “Mister Messi truly is a global icon,” says Michael Bayley, president and CEO of Royal Caribbean International. And rather than granting Messi the usual title of “godfather,” the line officially refers to him as “the Icon of Icon.”

Central Park

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A new travel series hosted by Bill Panoff. Streaming now, on: Download an app for your favorite device, or check your smart-TV app list, and watch the first season of the Porthole Cruise and Travel Show wherever you are.

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Hosted by Bill Panoff

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Queen Mary 2, the last true ocean liner

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by Judi Cuervo

The Trans-Atlantic Crossing can be the cruise experience par excellence. But which kind of ship is the one for you?

“CHICKEN OR PASTA?” We cruise enthusiasts are appalled by what passes for dining choices aboard those multi-hour flights that transport us across the Pond. And don’t even mention lack of comfort, sub-par entertainment … and jet lag.

Join me as I cross the Atlantic aboard three very differently sized ships and find three very different experiences.

Cunard

Fortunately, there is a seagoing option when it comes to trans-Atlantic travel: the Atlantic crossing, likely aboard one of your favorite ships! Yet, even some passionate sailors avoid a crossing expecting a voyage filled with boring port-less days and motion sickness. Are they justified?

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Queen Mary 2 SIZE: 149,215 GRT CAPACITY: 2,695 GUESTS MONTH: DECEMBER OCEAN MOTION: SMOOTH SAILING DURATION:6 DAYS(NO PORTS) “Good luck.” My friend’s words dripped with sarcasm when I revealed that I’d be crossing the Atlantic in mid-December. But she didn’t realize I’d be aboard Queen Mary 2, a massive ocean liner built specifically for the journey. The ship’s higher power, larger draft, and twice the stabilizers of most cruise ships deliver smooth sailing, all the way from Brooklyn to Southampton.

The atrium

Cunard’s typical Atlantic crossing is filled with events and activities. A morning workout at the gym, a treatment at the Mareel Spa, watercolor art classes, dance instruction, lectures, darts or roulette tournaments, morning trivia, and a visit to the ship’s planetarium (the only one at sea) are nice daytime options for those not content to simply select a book from the lavish library on Deck 8, curl up with it, and relax. But don’t get too relaxed! Queen Mary 2 comes alive each evening with gala theme nights. Guests don their red-and-gold finest, a nod to Cunard’s official colors, or slip into a flapper dress for a Roaring 20’s celebration that begins at dinner at one of QM2’s eight dining venues and continues with dancing to live ‘20s music at the Queens Room, the largest ballroom at sea.

And before booking your QM2 crossing, check out the ship’s event cruises — a number of themed voyages like London Theater at Sea, Literature Festival at Sea, or, this August, a sailing that celebrates Queen Mary 2’s 400th crossing and features ship historian Bill Miller, a lecturer who simultaneously educates and entertains.

Cunard (x6)

If nostalgia isn’t your thing, continue past the Queens Room to G32, the two-level rock/ pop club tucked behind it. Dance to your favorite tunes, perform karaoke, or just watch the action from the packed bar. I was dancing until 2:00 a.m. at G32 … the latest I’ve lasted on a dance floor since my 20s!

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The library

The ship’s higher power, larger draft, and twice the stabilizers of most cruise ships deliver smooth sailing. 45

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VIKING MARS SIZE: 47,842 GRT/ CAPACITY: 930 GUESTS MONTH: MARCH OCEAN MOTION: NEGLIGIBLE DURATION: 14 DAYS (3 PORTS: ST. MARTIN, MADEIRA, AND BARCELONA)

Viking Mars is less than one-third the size of other ships I’ve sailed across the ocean and I worry that once we leave Caribbean waters and enter the Atlantic, I’ll be popping Bonine like a junkie needing a fix. It never happens. With the exception of two rainy days and a bit of rolling, the sun shines so brightly that on most days I find myself sunbathing beside the ship’s infinity pool, or her midship one.

Viking Ocean’s “Silver Spirits” beverage package is available at a very reasonable $25 per person per day.

The Restaurant

Spa

While many of my shipmates simply choose to relax in the lamp-lit comfort of Viking Mars’ Scandinavian-inspired public rooms, activities abound. The thermal spa and fitness center is hopping each morning — no doubt a result of mealtime overindulgence at The Restaurant, the ship’s main dining room, and the ship’s two specialty restaurants, the Italian Manfredi’s and The Chef’s Table with its series of rotating, five-course, themed menus. The Star Theater morphs into a cinema (complete with popcorn) and the Wintergarden into an embroidery workshop. Trivia draws a crowd each day and lectures by experts in history, science, aviation, archaeology, astronomy, and more dazzle with fascinating discussions. Want to learn more? Visit your favorite lecturer during his or her “office hours” for a one-on-one conversation. And aboard Viking Mars, even the most voracious readers need not pack their own selections since everything from coffee table volumes to the latest James Patterson paperback are incorporated into the very design of the shelving found throughout the ship.

Viking Cruises (x5)

Ah … Viking Mars, one of Viking Ocean’s identical sister ships. Since I’ve sailed others in the fleet, I feel right at home the second I board. Wine is included with lunch and dinner, but should you wish a tipple between meals, Viking Ocean’s “Silver Spirits” beverage package is available at a very reasonable $25 per person per day. I opt for the package since, with only three ports in two weeks, there’ll be ample time to sip morning mimosas and have pre- and post-dinner cocktails.

Wintergarden

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Viking Cruises (x5)

Viking Ocean infinity pool

Viking Ocean Owner’s Suite

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SeaDream (x7)

A culinary team that grants so many special requests that mealtime menus often seem like mere suggestions.

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SEADREAM II SIZE:4,333 GRT CAPACITY: 112 GUESTS MONTH: APRIL OCEAN MOTION: SIGNIFICANT (ON MY VOYAGE) DURATION: 12 DAYS (2 PORTS: MADEIRA AND BARCELONA)

Blue skies and sunshine follow SeaDream II as she leaves Barbados, but the diminutive yacht is no match for the swells of the Atlantic. We roll and pitch for nearly a week, something that, I’m assured by SeaDream trans-Atlantic veterans (and they predominate on this voyage), is not typical of their prior experiences. In fact, just two weeks ago, sister yacht, SeaDream I had a crossing so smooth that guests were invited to take a mid-Atlantic swim, diving off the yacht’s sports platform into water 4,500 feet deep! A rough sea may be the bad news but there’s good news too: Devoted fans of the all-inclusive, recently-renovated SeaDream II can count on all of the exquisite hallmarks of the typical SeaDream voyage including superb dining, outstanding service and the home-like comfort that has won this line a place in their hearts.

SeaDream Yach Club (x7)

During the day, a quiet atmosphere prevails, with trivia, a daily lecture and film screenings the main draws. The exception comes on the day the sea calms and all 46 guests gather around the pool for the trans-Atlantic version of SeaDream’s signature “Champagne and Caviar Splash,” an exuberant party with freeflowing Champagne, endless caviar, and the spirited dancing that the waves and swells had robbed us of until now. Yet it’s SeaDream II’s dining and service that really bonds us all. It’s the lure of lavish, artfully-presented and decadent dishes like crispy vol-au-vent smothered in creamy mushroom sauce, perfectly-grilled New York filet of beef, and tender, briny lobster tail resting atop a rich and earthy risotto. It’s the attentive waiter who overhears a guest gushing over his companion’s escargot and delivers a portion without being asked, or the bartender who, on the spot, invents a cocktail that incorporates a guest’s favorite ingredients. And it’s a culinary team that grants so many special requests that mealtime menus often seem like mere suggestions. Yes, I quickly realize, SeaDream II can deliver anything her guests desire — except, during the first six days of this crossing, a calm sea.

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Jon Arnold / AWL Images

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FRENCH KISS Romancing La Seine on a cruise from Paris to the heart of Normandy and back. by Toby Saltzman 51

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he City of Light shines brighter than ever this year, illuminating La Seine — as Parisians lovingly call the river that courses through their city’s heart — as France marks a series of magnificent milestones. The Seine itself is the first stage of Paris’ Olympics celebrations, as boats parade international athletes to Trocadero for the XXXIII Olympiad opening ceremonies. Away from Paris, villages near the Seine’s flow to the English Channel locally commemorate the 80th anniversary of D-Day (June 6, 1944) with observances culminating at Normandy’s beaches. Since the Seine lured France’s beloved Impressionists to poise easels along its scenic shores, the country is marking the 150th anniversary of Impressionism with curated exhibits and festivals at riverside sites from Paris to Rouen. For all the festivities, this is a brilliant year to romance the beauty of La Seine on a Viking cruise from Paris to the heart of Normandy and back.

The Seine itself is the first stage of Paris’ Olympics celebrations.

Hôtel de Ville is the city hall of Paris.

Left top to bottom: Lysa - stock.adobe.com, Ingram Image, Hemis / AWL Images

Paris itself is an architectural masterpiece that exudes romantic allure in historic arrondissements from the UNESCO World Heritage community banking the Seine to Place Vendome, Place de la Concorde, Montmartre, Le Marais’ Place des Vosges, and the intimate byways of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Paris is a stellar hub for Viking’s four 168-passenger longships which have exclusive berthing privileges at Port de Grenelle — a short walk from the Eiffel Tower — and include two overnights at this central locale. Still, it’s worth arriving a couple of days early to stroll the city, cross iconic bridges inevitably dotted with couples lingering in fond embrace, see Impressionists’ paintings of scenes you’re destined to recognize on the Seine River cruise, and relax at a café to imbibe the Parisian joie de vivre. For art lovers, Le Louvre and Musée d’Orsay showcase the evolution of Impressionism with early works by Renoir, Degas, Sisley, Morisot, Pissarro, Cezanne, and Monet among others who honed their metiérs by painting the elusive, changing light of rural and coastal France. Their first collective showing in 1874 was critically trashed by Paris’ Royal Academy, which preferred classical studio paintings to gauzy images of landscapes and towns impacted by the burgeoning Industrial Revolution, or scenes of ordinary people living daily lives.

Right: Ruslan Gilmanshin - stock.adobe.com

PARISIAN ORIGINS

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Left top to bottom: Lysa - stock.adobe.com, Ingram Image, Hemis / AWL Images

Rue Chanoinesse, Montmartre district

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Right: Ruslan Gilmanshin - stock.adobe.com

Production Perig - stock.adobe.com

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Paris itself is an architectural masterpiece that exudes romantic allure.

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Left: aterrom - stock.adobe.com This page: Viking Cruises (x4)

Paris is a stellar hub for Viking’s four 168-passenger longships which have exclusive berthing privileges at Port de Grenelle.

A leisurely walk from Le Louvre through Tuileries Gardens leads to L’Orangerie, home of Monet’s brilliant Les Nymphéas (Water Lilies) cycle, painted at his Giverny estate. For Viking passengers like me, the line’s included visit to Giverny was motivation enough to book this cruise. Others were keen to visit Normandy’s historic beaches. After embarking Viking Skaga, Captain Pascal Eschbach explained that the Seine — its name meaning “snake” — is France’s second-longest river. Starting at the edge of Burgundy, it flows northwest through Paris, snaking its way through Normandy to the city of Rouen before reaching the English Channel at Le Havre. That first night, as passengers gathered on the top deck for Champagne toasts to a joyous journey, I felt the beguiling aura of La Seine, its waters shimmering as the Eiffel Tower sparkled against indigo skies.

LIGHT IN THE COUNTRYSIDE

Early next morning, after Skaga docked at the historic village of La Roche-Guyon, I climbed to the platform where Impressionists painted landscapes in the ephemeral light of day. Lingering, I felt immersed in an Impressionist painting, surrounded by nature’s palette of greens and blues, brushed by the likes of Renoir, Pissarro, Cezanne, Braque, Lauvray, or Monet. Following a path marked with plaques of various artists, and through lavender-scented gardens, I arrived at a centuryold chateau and cluster of tiny shops, overlooked by the remnants of an ancient hilltop fortress. Back on Skaga, I felt the scenic sensation of gliding through a canvas of iridescent waters fringed by verdant landscapes as we cruised toward Vernon for the short drive to Giverny. Set halfway along the Seine from Paris

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for grazing cows that produce rich milk for the region’s special cheeses, and groves of apple trees used for heady calvados brandy. When we berthed at Rouen for two nights, touring options included the ornate Rouen Cathedral, painted in different light by many Impressionists, and a farm experience. It was worth the hour-long ride to visit medieval Honfleur, where the Seine broadens to the sea. Now acclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its ancient cobbled streets and timber-framed houses, by 1864 Honfleur had already become a hub for artists — including Monet and Pissarro — smitten by colors of the fishing port, hues of the sea washing against alabaster cliffs, and the charm of local Normans clad in unique clothes.

Palace of Versailles

The Palace of Versailles and its vast gardens — built from 1664 to 1710 — showcased the lavish lifestyles of royalty prior to the French Revolution.

Right: EwaStudio - stock.adobe.com

to Rouen, Giverny was a rural farm when Monet created the two gardens that he painted incessantly in changing light. Strolling through the flower garden brimming with huge dahlias, roses, sunflowers, and hollyhocks, and then walking around the water garden crossed by the green Japanese bridge seen in the Water Lilies cycle, was mesmerizing. The house — intact since Monet’s death in December 1926 — preserves a cultural time capsule. At the estate’s edge, an alcove scattered with bales of hay evoked visions of Monet painting his bales over and over again in different light. Past Vernon, the Seine meanders through Normandy’s bucolic countryside, passing green valleys scattered with vineyards, or fenced

The next day’s visit to Normandy’s beaches, museums, and cemeteries gave historic perspective to the Allies’ D-Day experiences. I was honored to lay a wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Returning to Paris in brilliant sunshine, past the pretty village of Les Andelys, passengers lingered on deck, many photographing or sketching scenery. The last day provided spectacular insight to France’s convoluted history, starting with a tour of Chateau Malmaison. The splendid estate of Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte and his Empress Josephine housed the seat of the French government from 1800 to 1802. That afternoon, an optional tour of the Palace of Versailles and its vast gardens — built from 1664 to 1710 — showcased the lavish lifestyles of royalty prior to the French Revolution. Focusing on the art of both places, I imagined the way early Impressionists sought fresh inspiration from natural light. Back at Port Grenelle, in view of the sparkling Eiffel Tower, I blew a fond kiss adieu to Paris and the lovely Seine.

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REMEMBERING THE PAST

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The Hall of Mirrors, Versailles

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Right: EwaStudio - stock.adobe.com

GOOD VIBES

Around the World Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.

Left: Zemi Beach House This page: Zemi Beach House, great19 - stock.adobe.com, Carnival Cruise Line, Ingram Image, ONLY FRANCE / Alamy Stock Photo

by Alex Darlington

Anguilla’s Zemi Beach House

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BEST LIFE

CARNIVAL’S NEW SOLAR PARK Carnival Carnival Cruise Line has once again proved its dedication to sustainability by opening a brandnew solar park at its Amber Cove Cruise Center in the Dominican Republic. With 1,800 solar panels, the park will fulfill 80 percent of the Center’s energy needs and reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 1,000 tons per year. This drastic reduction is the environmental equivalent of planting 3,000 trees. Amber Cove is one of Carnival’s eight premier port destinations and private islands. It spans 25 acres and offers a wide range of exciting amenities, including a thrilling zip line and plenty of waterfront and hilltop cabanas.

Anguilla’s Zemi Beach House

Left: Zemi Beach House This page: Zemi Beach House, great19 - stock.adobe.com, Carnival Cruise Line, Ingram Image, ONLY FRANCE / Alamy Stock Photo

CARIBBEAN GREEN It’s official: Anguilla’s Zemi Beach House is now the “greenest” resort on the island, and possibly in the whole Caribbean region. Zemi, part of the LXR Hotel portfolio, has earned the honor by, among other things, debuting a new solar farm that allows the entire 76-room complex to run exclusively on solar energy during the day, and to store energy to be used in evenings and periods of low sunlight. “We take pride in creating a beautiful environment for our guests and maintaining the beauty of our island for travelers to enjoy for decades to come,” said Zemi Beach House general manager, Paulo Paias.

SWIMMING IN THE SEINE Say goodbye to a restrictive 100-year-old law, thanks to a world-class cleanup effort. Since 1923, it’s been illegal to swim in the Seine because of toxic pollution. But in preparation for the 2024 Olympics, there has been a successful effort to revitalize the famous French river. The water is now so clean that several of the Olympic swimming events will be held there. Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo says that the Seine will be up to Olympics standards well in time. The project has been facilitated, in part, by an efficient water treatment plant just east of Paris, and a large storage basin to curtail the spillage of bacteria-filled wastewater.

DO GOOD WHILE TRAVELING You can do some good for the Earth while you’re traveling to distant lands — or even just a few miles from home. Here are a few ways recommended by the European hotel group Green Pearls:

» When you’re visiting new places, use public transportation or walk, when possible, rather than driving. You’ll see more and help keep pollutants out of the air. » Find out about beach or forest clean-ups in the area and pitch in. » At your hotel, waive daily housekeeping. Reuse your towels when possible. Some hotels offer a donation to sustainabilityminded organizations for each day you pass on having your room cleaned. » As a day’s excursion, get to know the destination and meet some locals by getting involved in tree-planting campaigns.

Every little bit helps.

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GOOD VIBES

BEST LIFE

Getting Around Here are the best places to travel if you’ve got limited mobility.

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by Danielle Braff

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BEST LIFE

CALIFORNIA Take a Pacific Coast cruise to California ports including Catalina Island and San Francisco. Stop at the wheelchairaccessible Granada Beach, which supplies access mats for easy roll-ability. Next, head to Palm Desert for The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens, where you can hop on an accessible carousel and roll down the paved pathways throughout the zoo; with wheelchair rentals ($15 per day) and complimentary admission for all aides.

Catalina Island

Tampa Bay

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There are few things you can’t do when you’re rolling through Tampa Bay. The Riverwalk is a 2.6-mile pedestrian trail which takes you along the Hillsborough River and connects with major attractions. Use the Pirate Water Taxi as your transportation method — or just take a Pirate Water Taxi tour. The taxi has ramps to enter the boat, and they’ll drop you at tourist spots throughout Tampa. The Museum of Science & Industry has also upped its accessibility game, with step-free entrances, accessible bathrooms, and free wheelchair rentals.

ALASKA On the surface, Alaska doesn’t seem like it would be the most accessible destination, but hear me out! There are many Alaskan excursions that are ideal, from a helicopter ride over a glacier to whale-watching from a wheelchairaccessible boat. One of the most popular excursions in Alaska is a ride on the Alaska Railroad, which takes you through Anchorage and the Denali National Park. You could also opt for the Inside Passage trip, which takes visitors from Skagway to Fraser, BC.

BARCELONA Step off a ship and into one of the largest ports in Europe. There are accessible shuttles from the port into the city, or you can opt for an accessible taxi. Visit the famous Basílica de la Sagrada Familia with an aide (free for both if you have an accredited disability), take an adapted tour of the gothic Catedral de Barcelona in the Gothic Quarter (there’s a ramp at the Carrer del Bisbe entrance, and there are accessible bathrooms in the central garden, but be prepared for a few small hills on the way to the cathedral), and end the day at La Boqueria Market, one of the best Spanish markets, where they have narrow but accessible aisles, complete with ramps.

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GOOD VIBES

PUERTO RICO

This state is one of the best spots for accessible travel. A handful of beaches on each island offer all-terrain wheelchairs, and there are even accessible “rolling” trails (check the Department of Land and Natural Resources’s Hawaii Trails map, which narrows the trails down to the accessibility). In Kauai, there are accessible ATV and off-road tours via Kipu Ranch Adventures. If you’re able to climb a few stairs, you can even take a mountain tubing tour via Kauai Backcounty Adventures. Fancy scuba diving? Lahaina Divers in Maui has accessible scuba diving and a staff that holds Handicapped Scuba Association certifications.

A handful of beaches on each island offer all-terrain wheelchairs, and there are even accessible ‘rolling’ trails. 64

Hanalei Pier

Playa Del Carmen Travel to Mexico and you’ll be shocked by how much of Playa Del Carmen is accessible. They have snorkeling and diving tours available at Xelha and Xcaret, along with museums (don’t sleep on the Frida Kahlo Museum) that have wide, wheelchairfriendly access. Playa Del Carmen’s government funded Mexico’s first public accessible beach in front of Parque Fundadores on the south end of town near the Cozumel Ferry Pier, offering a long, steady boardwalk to take you to the water, a wide shower, and complimentary amphibious chairs, loungers, and walkers. Take a stroll downtown near 5th and 10th avenues to do some shopping, where the street is flat with no steps. Quinta, a.k.a. 5th Avenue, goes on for 20 blocks, while 10th Avenue has a smooth bike path. If you decide to venture out to Playa del Carmen or the Riviera Maya, you can check out one of the Seven Wonders of the World on an 8-hour Chichen Itza tour designed specifically for those in wheelchairs.

Sand wheelchair

COCO CAY Take a Royal Caribbean cruise to CocoCay, which is the line’s own private island in the Bahamas (you can only get here via a cruise aboard Royal Caribbean or one of the lines in the Royal Caribbean Group, which are also incredibly accessible). There’s a complimentary tram that runs on a loop throughout the island, plus complimentary beachaccess wheelchairs.

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HAWAII

This American territory is another Caribbean island known for easy accessibility. Luquillo Beach, which is 30 minutes from the San Juan International Airport, has 50 disabled parking spots, accessible bathrooms, a changing area with lifts, and a changing bed. A kiosk on the beach rents accessible flotation devices, sand wheelchairs, and amphibious beach chairs. Museo Casa Blanca, Catedral de San Juan Bautista, Parroquia San Francisco de Asis (the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi), and the Chapel of the Holy Christ of Health are all wheelchairfriendly.

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SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

Q : What famous film shot a scene on this sunny Scottish strand?

p - stock.adobe.com

(answer on next page)

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SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

(from previous page)

Q : What famous film shot a scene on this sunny Scottish strand?

Alamy Stock Photo

The Saint Andrews West Sands Beach in Fife, Scotland, was made famous in the Oscar-winning 1981 film Chariots of Fire, about the respectful rivalry between two British athletes in the 1924 Paris Olympics.

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LELAND & SEA

BEST LIFE

Oceania’s Asia Steve travels the world in style. This issue, he’s touring the Far East aboard Nautica.

Annie Spratt / Unsplash

by Steve Leland

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LELAND & SEA

BORACAY ISLAND

Super Tree Grove, Singapore

is blessed with beaches acclaimed as the best in the world. Visitors can expect powdery white sand and pristine waters for a day in the sun.

Boracay Island, Philippines

t had been five years since we last sailed with Oceania Cruises, but fond memories piqued my interest when I received a brochure in the mail announcing the intriguing Asian itineraries of Nautica.

We had sailed on the larger sister ships, Marina and Riviera, and found the “O-life” of Oceania to be the kind of cruise experience we love; casual but sophisticated, surrounded by beautifully designed furnishings and accoutrements. Our first experience with the cruise line had been a transAtlantic cruise that fit our preferences for days at sea, and the second was a cruise of discovery in the Baltic. This time, the slightly smaller Nautica punched the dance card with a waltz through the South China Sea starting in Singapore and finishing in Taiwan.

I REMEMBER IT WELL With dozens of cruises under my belt since our last journey with Oceania, it surprisingly only took a few steps on board to rekindle vivid memories. Its classic ship design, richly grained woods, beautiful carpets, exquisite marbled granite, genuinely warm hospitality, and superbly trained staff set the stage for what would be an 11-day Asian journey of adventure. A multimillion-dollar upgrade to the 685-passenger vessel in 2022 has resulted in all-new stateroom styling as well as trendy furniture in public rooms and dining venues. The hallmark country-club elegance remains intact throughout the ship as do the stately entrances to the Nautica showroom. Dine on European multi-course cuisine in the beauty of the Grand Dining Room or enjoy informality in the Terrace Café with a menu that encourages sampling regionally inspired dishes of delight. Floor-to-ceiling windows encircle the inside tables, while on the terrace, shaded teak tables allow for alfresco dining.

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BEST LIFE

High-backed, burgundy leather chairs and dark wood panels create a classic steakhouse ambience in the Polo Grill. Black Angus USDA Prime steaks are featured alongside seafood specialties served in a time-honored tradition. The Toscana restaurant is an opportunity to enjoy masterfully prepared Italian dishes served on custom-designed Versace china. Complimentary access makes dining in these specialty venues even more enjoyable.

Left clockwise from top left: Coleen Rivas / Unsplash, frolova_elena - stock.adobe.com, Oceania Cruises This page from top: Zach - stock.adobe.com, Best View Stock - stock.adobe.com

The seclusion of the ship’s spa and gym makes them seem like a new discovery. Although not intended to be secret, two doors of the spa’s elaborately tiled changing room open up to a spacious deck on the bow of the ship with a dozen sun beds and an oversized hot bubbling plunge pool. Unlike many ships, this too is complimentary.

SAIL AWAY TO ASIA Everything is “O” so nice on board … but allow me to digress away from the ship, as it was the appeal of this immersive itinerary that initially grabbed my attention. Sailing out of Singapore offers the most convenient and intoxicating cruise adventures you can imagine with itineraries that include Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand, and Japan. All destinations that are more than capable of fulfilling travel dreams, but this 11-day cruise had the makings of something extra special.

Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, Brunei

When was the last time you saw an itinerary with a stop in Brunei? The immense wealth of this tiny country is on display with visits to the impressive Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque and the grandiose Sultan’s Palace. Hundreds of stilthomes built over the water reveal a more down-to-earth lifestyle, and a boat ride through the world’s largest water village is highlighted by a visit to a private home for tea and snacks. As Nautica enters the waters around the islands of the Philippines, a trio of ports await discovery. Puerto Princesa, a penal colony during the Spanish regime, is today a gateway to a fabulous underwater river where catamaranstyle boats ferry visitors through caverns with channels that flow through the mountainous terrain.

BRUNEI

The immense wealth of this tiny country is on display with visits to the impressive Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque and the grandiose Sultan’s Palace.

Claiming its share of accolades for its beauty, Boracay Island is blessed with beaches acclaimed as the best in the world. Visitors can expect powdery white sand and pristine waters for a day in the sun, or can parasail above for bird’s-eye views of this island paradise. The trilogy of Filipino ports finishes up in the bustling capital of Manila.

MADE IN TAIWAN Never underestimate Taiwan’s ability to impress; there’s something about the country that stimulates the senses. An early morning arrival in Kaohsiung reveals the mind-boggling architecture of its brand new cruise terminal, perfectly capturing the innovative spirit of the cosmopolitan city. Magnificent, tree-lined boulevards dissect the city, with lofty skyscrapers piercing the skyline above. Just outside the urban surroundings, guests can experience the serenity of a monumental Buddhist monastery. A drastic change in topography comes with our arrival in Hualien. Although simpler in appearance and less modern in development, the city is towered over by a majestic mountain range. One hour’s drive away from the city, we reach the impressive Taroka National Park to hike into Taroka Gorge, which slices its way through these grandiose mountains for an experience to treasure. Due to personal travel-schedule conflicts, Keelung and Taipei City mark the end of the line for us, but the ship continues northward with sights set on the wonders of Japan. The Asian world is as big as you make it, and Oceania is making the continent even more accessible, bringing greater focus onto the region in 2024 and 2025. There’s always a new world emerging with Oceania, and I’m ready to experience it, see it, and live in it.

Taroka National Park, Taiwan

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#CruiseForGood

BEST LIFE

ilent whale watching

From June to November, North Sailing hosts a special tour of Iceland’s Skjálfandi Bay, sailing in eco-friendly electric vessels that leave no exhaust and, more importantly, make no sound to disturb sonar-sensitive whales. Unlike other tours, you can actually hear blue and humpback whales calling to each other across the deep.

vonwong.com

North Sailing (x4)

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Time is running out to protect vulnerable wildlife. Act now. wwf.org

wwf.org

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covers all kinds of cruises Discover all kinds of cruising subscribe here

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