Porthole Cruise and Travel, December 2023 by ppigroup

Lewis & Clark & an Empress

12.2023

Swiss Scenery by Express Train

Luxury Adventures with Swan Hellenic

Great Scots! on Hebridean Princess

readers’ choice

awards Meet the 2023 Winners!

MAJESTIC PREPARATIONS ...as Queen Anne joins the fleet

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Discover a New World of Cruising on board MSC World America. A world of sustainable cruising on a ship designed for immersive and unique experiences at sea for guests of all ages and from all around the globe. Embark on a ship that is beautiful both inside and out, powered by cleaner fuel, and full of sophistication. You’ll discover new worlds of cultures, tastes and experiences when MSC World America starts cruising from Miami to the Caribbean in 2025. Be one of the first to experience MSC World America, A New World of Cruising. Now open for booking.

Discover more at msccruises.com

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The Art of Sparkle™ Exclusively at

Alaska • Amber Cove • Antigua • Aruba • Bahamas • Barbados • Belize • Bermuda • Cabo San Lucas Costa Maya • Cozumel • Curaçao • Grand Cayman • Grand Turk • Jamaica • Orlando • Puerto Vallar ta • Roatan San Juan • Sawgrass Mills • St. Kitts • St. Lucia • St. Maar ten • St. Thomas • Taino Bay • Tor tola

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Introducing The New Crown of Light® Fancy Shapes

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Alaska and Cunard – a perfect match ®

Alaska becomes even more spectacular when you experience it on board Queen Elizabeth.® Spend ample time in port and scenic days visiting Glacier Bay National Park, Hubbard Glacier, or Tracy Arm Fjord. Onboard enrichment brings you deeper into the moment, while our renowned White Star ServiceTM elevates your vacation from ship to shore.

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2024 Alaska Voyages

Roundtrip Vancouver 10 nights  Jun 11 10 nights  Jun 21 10 nights  Jul 1 11 nights  Jul 11 10 nights  Jul 22 9 nights  Aug 1 10 nights  Aug 10 10 nights  Aug 20 10 nights  Aug 30 10 nights  Sep 9

Vancouver to San Francisco 13 nights  Sep 9 © 2023 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Elizabeth, and White Star Service are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Contact your Travel Advisor | Call (800) 728-6273 | Visit Cunard.com/Port

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Letter from the Publisher

DECEMBER 2023

Here’s Your Best As we celebrate the Readers’ Choice Awards, let’s look at the best of everything! THE BEST IS HERE, NOW. I mean that in two different ways: one, that you can be having the experience you dream of right now if you put your mind to it, but also, two, that our readers have chosen the best of the best in cruise and travel, and we’re about to share that with you.

Somewhere in this issue, I’m sure you’ll find an amazing ship, an astounding destination, a fantastic dish, or an incredible experience that you’ve never considered before … but that could be on the top of your list of “personal bests” sometime soon.

Since the mid-90s, our Readers’ Choice Awards have singled out cruise lines and destinations that were one way or another above the rest. Maybe it was a signature cocktail. Maybe it was a grand oceangoing ship. Maybe it was a particular sun-kissed beach on a special Caribbean island. One way or another, these things made themselves stand out. This year, the best continue to distinguish themselves with Porthole readers, who are some of the most discerning travelers out there. You can see the results (and which lucky voter got picked to win this year’s prize) on page 29. But “the best” is always a judgment call. What you like best isn’t always what I like best. Somewhere in this issue, I’m sure you’ll find an amazing ship, an astounding destination, a fantastic dish, or an incredible experience that you’ve never considered before … but that could be on the top of your list of “personal bests” sometime soon. If you’re a coffee drinker, you might settle down with stimulating author Matt Havard for a cup of the best new trend in specialty brews, fermented coffees from around the world, on page 14. If you’re a fan of unusual cruise experiences, with side orders of haggis, whisky, and the distant keening of a lone bagpiper, then maybe you’ll have the best time of your life sailing with veteran cruiser Judi Cuervo on Hebridean Princess on page 42. Or, if you feel the rest of Britain would be even greater, anticipate Cunard’s upcoming Queen Anne with historian Chris Frame on page 48, or Swan Hellenic’s new luxury adventure ship SH Diana reviewed by our very own company president, Bill Jordan, on page 36. Maybe the best trip of your life is waiting on the wild San Blas Islands of Panama, as introduced by Michelle Schultz on page 64, or aboard the deluxe express trains of Switzerland, as revealed by Theresa Russell on page 18, or in the rustic landscape of Alentejo, Portugal, as savored by the traveling pair of Pamela Wright and Diane Bair on page 25. Or maybe you’ll discover the best gift for your best holiday season in our annual gift guide on page 21. As the song says, the best is yet to come. I hope you keep your best foot forward and all your cruises (and homecomings) are the best!

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

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Contributors

Judi Cuervo began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications.

DECEMBER 2023

Chris Frame, a frequent lecturer aboard the Cunard fleet, has authored many ocean liner books including QM2: A Photographic Journey, Queen Victoria: A Photographic Journey, and Queen Elizabeth: A Photographic Journey. Since 1999 he has run www. chriscunard.com, a popular independent website dedicated to Cunard Line.

Katherine Rodeghier’s travels have led to all seven continents. She’s had close encounters with penguins in Antarctica, tortoises in the Galapagos Islands, and bicycled along a canal on a barge cruise in France. Find her on Instagram @traveljournophotog and X @KRodeghier. Bill Jordan is the president of PPI Group, which publishes Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, and has worked in the cruise industry for decades. He lives and works in South Florida when he’s not out to sea or in a remote corner of the world.

Bill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director Grant Balfour Managing Editor Skip Anderson Art Director Sara Linda Proofreader Judi Cuervo, Alex Darlington, Chris Frame, Matt Havard, Bill Jordan, Steve Leland, Katherine Rodeghier, Theresa Russell, Michelle Schultz, Diane Bair and Pamela Wright Contributing Writers Adobe Stock, AWL Images, Judi Cuervo, eStock Photo, Katherine Rodeghier, Unsplash Contributing Photographers Sales Offices Corporate Headquarters/PPI Group 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA (954) 377-7777 Email: sales@ppigroup.com William P. Jordan III Stephanie Davies

President VP Digital Marketing

Diane Bair and Pamela Wright are a well-known travel writing team and authors of more than 30 guidebooks. Their work has appeared in a variety of publications including USA Today, Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, Yankee, National Geographic Traveler, and the Boston Globe.

Steve Leland, a former cruise director, spent the majority of his life in the cruise industry. His insider narratives delve into off-thegrid destinations, focusing on niche cruise itineraries in addition to the mainstream cruise experience.

Bill Panoff William P. Jordan III Audrey Balbiers-Panoff Piero Vitale Linda Douthat Stephanie Davies Soren Domlesky DECEMBER 2023 ISSUE 248

ABOUT THE COVER: A beautful woman basks in the sun of an idyllic seaside, as if she knows the best luxury line to sail to the world’s best destination ... as recognized in our 2023 Readers’ Choice Awards. Photo by Margo Alexa stock.adobe.com

Theresa Russell has explored Alaska by land and sea. making it a point to try out the local brew wherever her destination. Professionally, her work appears in books, magazines, newspapers, and online. She is the editor of Tripwich, an online magazine with an emphasis on fun. She never turns down an opportunity to cruise or visit Alaska.

CEO/Chairman President Chief Operating Officer Chief Financial Officer SVP, Publishing VP Digital Marketing Director of Technology

To make address changes or ask questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com. All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or (760) 268-9594 (International) 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Pacific time; email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year digital subscription (6 issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax.

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Available at Diamonds International, Tanzanite International and Luxury of Time DiamondsInternational.com

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Features

DECEMBER 2023

This Year’s Winners! 29

48 Clockwise: FreebillyPhotography - stock.adobe.com; Cunard; Swan Hellenic

Mooning Over SH Diana

Another World ... Another Scotland

A New Queen is Coming

Lewis & Clark & American Empress

Swan Hellenic’s newest “cultural expedition” ship has a truly divine glow.

Hebridean Princess offers an experience of travel both timeless and true.

Queen Anne, the seventh Cunard ship to bear a royal title, has begun preparing for a grand debut.

American Queen Voyages plies the Pacific Northwest rivers navigated by the Corps of Discovery.

By Bill Jordan

By Judi Cuervo

By Chris Frame

By Katherine Rodeghier

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What’s Inside

DECEMBER 2023

06 Letter from the Publisher 07 Contributors P L A N E T P L AY G R O U N D

14 Wine & Dine

Coffee lovers are celebrating a worldwide phenomenon as growers get new flavors … by fermenting their beans. by Matt Havard

18 Roads & Rails Should you find yourself in Basel, why not explore more of what makes Switzerland incredible? by Theresa Russell

21 Shop Around Holiday gift guide

25 Shore Leave Exploring Alentejo reveals Europe as it used to be, within reach of one of the continent’s most popular ports.

PANAMA

by Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

25 BEST LIFE

62 Good Vibes

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.

The beauty of Panama’s rain forest and the San Blas Islands can unlock a different way to travel … and simply to be. by Michelle Schultz

68 Leland & Sea

Steve Leland travels the world in style. Now, he’s sailing on an Aranui freighter-cruise through French Polynesia.

by Steve Leland

72 Sail Away

Top to bottom: Heeb Photos / eStock Photo; rh2010 - stock.adobe.com; Simple Line - stock.adobe.com; Swatch

by Alex Darlington

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CHASE

T hrill

THE

Chase it over the rainforest canopy on a zipline. On a leisurely island tour aboard the Scenic Railway, or through the clouds as you reach Mount Liamuiga’s peak. At every turn, our island invites you to discover something new; something thrilling. Follow your appetite for adventure, and let it lead you to St. Kitts.

VISITSTKITTS.COM

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Planet Playground

DECEMBER 2023

14 Wine & Dine COFFEE

Roads & Rails SWITZERLAND

21 Shop Around HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Clockwise: juliasudnitskaya - stock.adobe.com ; Bernardo Lorena Ponte / Unsplash; Samsung; Austin - stock.adobe.com

Shore Leave PORTUGAL

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TOGETHER, W E T R AV E L I N G O O D C O M PA N Y.

I N T I M AT E YA C H T I N G E X P E D I T I O N S ™ At Atlas, we have set a new course for expedition cruise travel, curated for spirited explorers, led by expert guides, and enhanced by a genuine and caring crew who share a desire to connect with people, places, and our cherished natural world. From bold adventures in the Arctic and Antarctica to cultural and epicurean expeditions year-round, travelers return to the yachts to savor moments well-lived, among new friends in a relaxed, après expedition atmosphere. Begin exploring at AtlasOceanVoyages.com ANTARCTICA / PATAGONIA + THE FALKLANDS / SOUTH AMERICA / CARIBBEAN / TRANSOCEANIC / HOLY LAND + EGYPT MEDITERRANEAN / NORTHERN EUROPE / ICELAND + GREENLAND / ARCTIC

ATLAS ALWAYS INCLUDED:

Expedition Guides + Enriching Experiences, Gratuities, Culinary + Wine Tastings, Unlimited Wines + Spirits, and more.

SECOND GUEST SAILS FREE PLUS BONUS SAVINGS OF UP TO $4,000 PER STATEROOM Contact your Travel Advisor or our Voyage Specialists at 844.442.8527 BONUS SAVINGS OF UP TO $4,000 PER STATEROOM ($2,000 PER GUEST) APPLIES TO NEW BOOKINGS MADE BY DECEMBER 31, 2023. BONUS SAVINGS VARIES BY EXPEDITION AND SUITE OR STATEROOM SELECTED AND IS COMBINABLE WITH SECOND GUEST SAILS FREE. SPECIAL OFFERS AND INCLUSIONS ARE CAPACITY CONTROLLED AND MAY BE CHANGED OR WITHDRAWN FROM ANY VOYAGE AT ANY TIME WITHOUT NOTICE. ADDITIONAL RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY. FOR FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS, CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL ADVISOR OR ATLAS OCEAN VOYAGES. © 2023 ATLAS OCEAN VOYAGES. SHIPS’ REGISTRY: PORTUGAL 2652_08.30.23

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Wine & Dine

A Different Sip by Matt Havard

EVERY COFFEE LOVER HAS A FAVORITE. Do you sip only singleorigin Colombian or Brazilian? Perhaps you prefer flavored varieties, with vanilla, pecan or hazelnut added. Even if you’ll drink any dang bean that has caffeine, surely you go for one or two grocery-store brands over the others. But have you ever noticed elusive chocolate, caramel, or orange-peel notes in a well-roasted Colombian coffee, or strawberry and lychee peeking out from behind the cocoa coolness of an Ethiopian bean? A coffee revolution — fermentation — is now bringing those fruity and floral flavors into the spotlight, front and center.

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Coffee lovers are celebrating a worldwide phenomenon as growers get new flavors … by fermenting their beans.

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P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

Coffee Traditions

Clockwise: Brastock Images - stock.adobe.com; Jon Tyson / Unsplash; Mikhail Zahranichny - stock.adobe.com; nimon_t - stock.adobe.com; seralex - stock.adobe.com; Yakobchuk Olena - stock.adobe.com. Center: Subbotina Anna - stock.adobe.com

The coffee cherry is similar to the cherries you eat and other stone fruit, with a tough outer skin, a pulpy middle, and a hard seed at the center. It’s the seed that eventually becomes the coffee bean. Simply drying these coffee cherries in the sun was the traditional method of reaching the bean, but coffee processing has been refined in various ways as coffee has moved from continent to continent and region to region throughout history. Dry-processed or natural coffee is still a treasured processing method, in part for the flavors and lightness it can bring out of the bean. Wet-processed or washed coffee was developed as coffee production grew into a worldwide trade. Both methods have their variations and subtleties,

Freshening Up Flavors

It’s important to stop here and point out that fermentation has almost always been a part of refining coffee cherries into unroasted or “green” coffee beans through dry or wet processing methods.

designed to bring out the flavor imparted to a bean by its breeding, terroir, and seasonal growing conditions. Lately, growers have developed a new option for tapping into those flavor notes, within either wet and dry processes: a new fermentation step. This is an emerging trend; still somewhat loose and experimental. The industry hasn’t even settled on a standard name for this processing step. It’s been called “experimental fermentation,” “cultured fermentation,” and “controlled fermentation.” Fermented coffees tend to accentuate existing citrus and floral notes that have always been present in the finished coffee, just not front and center. Some fermented coffees, once roasted and cupped, are even likened to fruit juice. It’s still coffee, of course, but often with startling new flavor dimensions.

It’s still coffee, of course, but often with startling new flavor dimensions. The dry or “natural” process involves spreading coffee cherries out in the sun to loosen the skin, shrink and harden

the pulp. The cherries are raked or shuffled to ensure they dry evenly. The skin, pulp, and mucilage are then removed in one

or two steps, leaving only the coffee bean. With naturals, the experimental fermentation stage often takes place after the cherry is picked and before it is dried. It can even take place on the drying bed. Wet-processed or “washed” coffee generally has

always included a rudimentary fermentation stage which helps to break down the coffee cherry skin, pulp, and mucilage. The coffee cherries are mashed, then left to soak and ferment in their own juices and pulp; water can be added as well. Once the inner pulp 15

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Wine & Dine

P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

and mucilage have started to break down, they can be washed completely away or left on to varying degrees. As the coffee dries, this layer can influence the final coffee bean flavor. An experimental fermentation step can take place before the cherries are mashed, during this mundane fermentation, or afterwards, in a separate step. Local coffee growers are often doing the fermenting as a way to highlight their coffee and distinguish it in the marketplace. Coffee wholesalers and importers often work with the coffee producers on fermentation techniques — it’s in everyone’s interest to offer the highestquality coffee possible. Fermentation might be aerobic or anaerobic, use nontraditional containers or utilize specialty bacteria and yeasts.

Simply drying these coffee cherries in the sun was the traditional method of reaching the bean…. It might even be based on the carbonic maceration process used in winemaking. Creativity and experimentation are the orders of the day. What is certain is that this trend is producing some eyeopening and delicious coffees.

Finding Fermented Coffees

David Tatum owns and operates The Captain’s Coffee, an online business that supplies unroasted “green” coffee to home roasters and other customers throughout the United States. The number of fermented offerings in his

inventory has been steadily growing. “All four of the current coffee importers we’re buying from work with experimental fermentation processes,” says Tatum. “A couple of them are on the ground and hands on, working with producers.” The fermentedcoffee processing trend seems to have originated in Central and South America, but fermented coffees are now appearing from all over the world, including coffee-growing regions in Africa and Indonesia. If you’re in the right port at the right time

of year, you might be able to find a coffee producer who will sell you a 5-pound bag of fermented-and-dried greens (if you supply the burlap). But to try fruity, floral, and fermented coffee at home or in cafés around the world, look for purveyors of specialty coffee. Fermented coffees are part of the specialty coffee segment, the highest-quality coffee available. You can find specialty coffee at your local roaster and coffee shop, or through your coffee subscription service. Home roasters can find fermented coffees through green coffee vendors like Tatum. “The goal of experimental processing should always be tointensify flavors and characteristics that are already present,” Tatum says. “If it’s a juicy natural, we want to kick that sweetness and juiciness up to

eleven. If it’s a clean, floral washed coffee, we’re trying to make those florals really pop while keeping the cup balanced and clean.” A quick online search for “fermented coffee for sale” brings up a lot of fermented and roasted coffee from quality roasteries. You’ll often find detailed descriptions of the specific fermentation techniques. Descriptors like “juicy,” “fruity,” “citrusy,” “floral” or “flavor bomb” are good indicators of fermented coffee. If you’re not sure the coffee you are eyeballing has been fermented, just ask the purveyor; they’ll be happy to help. This trend is spreading fast, and it won’t be long before you’ll have a chance to give fermented coffee a try. Don’t knock it until you taste it — you might even find a new favorite.

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Coffee farmer drying the fermented beans

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THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS. Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you could ever ask for.

St.

J O H N

St.

T H O M A S

St.

C R O I X

VISITUSVI.COM

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Roads & Rails

Alpine Adventures

Should you find yourself in Basel, why not explore more of what makes Switzerland incredible? by Theresa Russell

Clockwise from top: Stefano Politi Markovina / AWL Images; tawatchai1990 - stock.adobe.com; Mountain Brothers - stock.adobe.com; suthon - stock.adobe.com; @ Glacier Express

risp mountain air … sparkling lakes … wine, cheese, and chocolate: Switzerland activates the senses. For a full day of sensory engagement, board one of the panoramic trains that glides into the landscapes of Europe’s Land of Milk and Honey. Known for its precise timekeeping, Switzerland’s obsession with punctual schedules makes exploration by train a practical choice. Connecting trains have no long waits between. Two scenic railways are easily accessible from Basel, connecting via the efficient Swiss rail system, each giving different views of different parts of the surrounding countryside. The Glacier Express connects two resorts, traveling between Zermatt, at the foot of the Matterhorn, and Saint Moritz, the high-altitude Olympic town. The new GoldenPass Express connects Montreux, of jazz festival fame, to the mountain-rimmed hideaway of Interlaken.

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P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

The Glacier Express navigates the rugged Alps, covering a mere 186 miles in a full day.

Glacier Express Don’t focus on “Express” in the name of this train; a travel time of 8 hours hardly defines speed. The Glacier Express navigates the rugged Alps, covering a mere 186 miles in a full day. Relaxation, inspiration, and exploration into the Swiss countryside describe this experience. In fact, the red train takes the title for “slowest express train in the world.” What the Glacier Express lacks in speed, it more than makes up in highlighting the landscape. Starting in either Zermatt, where you will see the Matterhorn, or Saint Moritz, the Glacier Express makes stops in several villages sprinkled with traditional brown-roofed chalets. As tempting as it may be to get off and explore, this train itself functions as a comfortable vessel to experience the alpine scenery of Switzerland, rather than simply a mode of transportation. For exploring the enticing villages along the way, the better option is to take a local (and less expensive) train. With 90 tunnels and 291 bridges, there’s no lack of excitement on this train, especially for aficionados interested in the design of the railway. One of the highlights, or perhaps more intense parts, of the Glacier Express is crossing over the 213-foot Landwasser Viaduct. As the train exits the mountain, it curves around this much-photographed example of both architecture and engineering. Many countries claim a “Grand Canyon” of their own, and that’s the case with Switzerland. Also known as the Rhine Gorge, the blue waters provide a splash of color to the background of the trees and gray rock walls.

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Roads & Rails

P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

The GoldenPass Express through the expansive, green valleys. Their milk is used in the country’s renowned cheese and chocolate. (One for the trivia file: Recent data shows that the most popular name for a cow in Switzerland is Bella.) Gstaad, a swanky resort town, marks the midpoint of the trip. Near the end of the voyage, Lake Thun comes into view as the train pulls into Interlaken. A German name meaning “between the lakes,” this scenic city in the heart of the Jungfrau region makes a great base for experiencing the Bernese Oberland. The Swiss Travel Pass comes in handy for exploring this wellknown part of the Jungfrau region. Although Interlaken marks the end of the GoldenPass Express train journey, it is possible to change trains and continue on the GoldenPass route all the way to Lucerne via a less touristy train, the Luzern-Interlaken Express.

All Aboard To prepare for your adventure on either of these trains, be aware that there are several different rail passes available along with individual tickets. Both trains offer three classes of service. There is an additional fee for seat reservations, which are mandatory for Glacier Express and recommended for the GoldenPass Express. Both trains are popular with tourists. Don’t expect to show up at the station and get a ticket. Reservations for Glacier Express open 93 days prior to preferred dates of travel. Should your dates not be available, it’s possible to make the same journey on non-tourist-oriented trains, albeit with connections. Traditional Swiss meals can complement the experience. Snacks are also available, but some passengers pack picnics for the journeys.

Clockwise: Tobias Ryser; MOB - GoldenPass; Mountain Brothers - stock.adobe.com

A tribute to technology, the new GoldenPass Express is just a 3 hour and 15 minute portion of the longer GoldenPass route. The Express travels on specially designed carriages that can adjust their trucks (or “bogies”) to transition between narrow and standard gauge tracks. No longer is it required to change trains to continue on different stretches of track. Departing jazzy Montreux, views of Lake Geneva slowly fade from view as this electrically powered train zigzags into the hills hugged by vineyards. The views of meadows, wildflowers, and trees inspire memories of scenes from the Sound of Music or Heidi. Once the GoldenPass Express reaches its highest point near Saanenmöser, it descends toward Interlaken. The panoramic windows literally offer a glimpse into quintessential Switzerland. You might catch sight of the famous Simmental cows as you pass

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Shop Around

P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

Porthole’s Gift Guide

Clockwise: Sea Containers London; getbearback.com; shoplikha.com; amazon.com; LenLis - stock.adobe.com

We’ve assembled some of the best gift ideas for the travelers on your list, ranging from the useful to the utterly outrageous.

OMNICHARGE OMNI 20+ POWER BANK

SEA CONTAINERS LONDON Here’s some holiday cheer! Topping our list is a fantastic overnight stay at this lifestyle hotel on the South Bank of the Thames, where the decor is inspired by the Golden Age of transAtlantic travel, the in-house restaurants are divine, and the location unbeatable.

Think of this as a 20,000 milliamp-hour phone battery that also quick-charges laptops, flashlights, cameras, drones, and nearly anything you can plug in … and some you don’t, since it also has wireless charging capability.

2023

BEARBACK LOTION DISPENSER Get those hard-to-hit spots with sunblock or moisturizer using this curved, non-slip applicator, which folds up for packing, then extends out from 9.5 to 17 inches. It comes with two removable, washable foam rollers.

LIKHÂ Mother-of-Pearl Collection This handcrafted Filipino mother-of-pearl jewelry is as elegant as it is ethical. Each unique piece contributes to the sustainable growth of artisan communities, and is made by hand using repurposed mother-of-pearl shells. Pieces vary from white geometric studs to naturally iridescent gray-and-brown bangles and necklaces made of multicolored squares.

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Shop Around

DUNE JEWELRY’S BEACHY PERFECTION You pick the place, and Dune’s artists use sand and other “earth elements” from that location so you can wear your favorite beach wherever you roam. Whether you choose handmade rings and bracelets from the Personalized Wave collection (left), the sterling silver and aquamarine of Camille Kostek’s collection, or any of their other designs, you’ll bring on the beach vibes.

U-BOAT WORX SUPER-SUB We’ve all got someone on the gift list who’s already got everything. Well, if price is no object, there’s always a private three-person submersible. The Super-Sub’s four electric thrusters provide an impressive 100 kW of thrust, which translates into a top speed of 10 knots underwater, faster than the cruising speed of a bottlenose dolphin. The new model was just unveiled at the Monaco Yacht Show, so grab one while you can … if you can!

THE COSMETIC CASE

TagVault Card Insert

The luggage designers at BÉIS want you to look good while you’re looking good. The Cosmetic Case is a statement in itself, coming in colors from “creamsicle” to “citron,” and “Barbie pink” to “maple.” They’re wellconstructed, too — each colorful case measures 9.5 by 4 inches, is made of easy-to-clean faux leather, and comes with a mirror and its own removable, pop-out brush holder, just in case you need a discreet touch-up while you’re on the way somewhere fabulous.

AirTags make finding personal items (like luggage) or people (like easily distracted spouses) a snap. This handy gadget reshapes an AirTag into a flexible credit-card shape and smooths the profile down, so it’ll fit easily in a wallet or passport case. Track your valuables in a snap.

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P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

“Most Likely To” Group Shirts

Left, clockwise: Dune (x3), Uboat Worx, Béis, LenLis - stock.adobe.com, Elevation Lab (x2). Right, clockwise: Ember, Rosie Likes It, NVR Nude, Samsung, LenLis - stock.adobe.com (x3).

You know your cruise buddies to a tee. Well, with Read Me Rosie’s customizable shirts, you can let them all know who among you is most likely to … well, you name it! Flirt with a bartender? Attend every show? Get everyone a Porthole subscription? Whatever you think, your group can wear with pride.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL TRAVEL MUG

The tech wizards (and coffee lovers) at Ember have come out with a new mug that’s got a leak-proof, slide-lock lid and a built-in warming element and thermostat so you can keep your drink precisely perfect even on an Antarctic Zodiac ride, while leafpeeping on a New England coastal cruise, or even while waiting for your flight home.

NVR NUDE Signature Stripes Proudly handmade in Canada by a female-owned company, these rings and earrings bear bold stripes-onstripes patterns that celebrate Breton tops, Mediterranean beaches and the domed roofs and bridges of Italian cities, and are constructed from top-quality enamel, 14k gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, and freshwater pearls.

Thom Browne Galaxy Z Fold5 Android phones have gotten a designer makeover with distinctive Thom Browne stripes and labeling on this Galaxy Z Fold5 phone. It’s got fabric texture etched on the back glass, three colors against a black frame, gold hinge, and gold rings around the camera lenses. It comes with its own special-edition S pen stylus, a matching Galaxy Watch6 with gold body and striped face, and, as packaging, two leather pouches and a Thom Browne briefcase. The watch even lets you switch between two straps depending on your mood: basic black and jaunty Thom Browne stripes.

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Shop Around

P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

BIOCERAMIC SCUBA FIFTY FATHOMS WATCH

LOVE TALLA FINGERPRINT NECKLACE

Swatch honors another famed Swiss watchmaker, Blancpain, with a collaborative collection. Each model is water resistant to 91 meters (or 50 fathoms that’s 300 feet) and named after one of the five oceans: Arctic, Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, and Antarctic.

Some people carry their hearts on their sleeves, others carry something a little more unique. Love Talla makes individualized fingerprint necklaces, so your loved one can bear your one-of-a-kind imprint. Precious pendants range from sterling silver to 14k gold and diamonds, in styles that range from dogmom pawprints to masculine ID tags to delicate grandmothergranddaughter sets.

Cruise On Towel Bands Keep that towel in place on the top deck even in a brisk, sea-day breeze without relying on a large, hard-to-pack towel clip. These large, natural latex bands take up nearly no room and never rust.

Clockwise: Swatch, Love Talia, LenLis - stock.adobe.com (x2), Amazon (x2).

Polaroids Originals Lab

You’ve never seen vacation snapshots like these before! Well, unless you’re of a certain age, in which case these quick-developing prints will bring back a lot of memories. The Polaroid company has been reborn for the 21st century, and their new Originals Lab lets you turn your smartphone snaps into the same shake-and-wait pics that made the 70s so surreally satisfying. You’ll have to buy film separately, but the lab does come with the Originals App, which lets you do things like turn one image into a multi-print collage.

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Shore Leave

P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

ALMOST-UNDISCOVERED PORTUGAL Exploring Alentejo reveals Europe as it used to be, within reach of one of the continent’s most popular ports.

by Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

THIS STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL REGION HAS BEEN called “Portugal’s Secret.” It encompasses more than 30 percent of the country’s land, bordered by the Tagus River to the north and the Algarve mountains to the south, but is home to only five percent of its population. Along its western coast, sandy coves and secluded beaches are tucked in between sea cliffs, and surrounded by sand dunes, pine forests, and rice paddies. Inland, rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards, and massive cork forests (this region is the largest producer of cork in the world) stretch to the border of Spain. It’s dotted with castles and temples dating back to Roman times, UNESCO World Heritage sites, “white cities” known for their quarried marble, and small, picturesque hillside towns still practicing centuries-old traditional ways.

NORTH REGION

Top to bottom: psousa5 - stock.adobe.com; lesniewski - stock.adobe.com

CENTRAL REGION

SPAIN Estremoz Lisbon

Beja

ALENTEJO

ALGARVE

Portugal

Atlantic Ocean

“People say Alentejo is like Tuscany was 20 or 30 years ago,” says Libanio Reis, a guide and lifelong resident of Évora, the capital of Alentejo. “It’s changing; the big sharks are coming, but right now it’s still slow-paced and beautiful, and full of history.” We rented a car in Lisbon for a four-day exploration of Alentejo. Crunched for time, we skipped the coastal Comporta province (it’s at the top of our list for a return visit) and headed for the hills. 25

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Shore Leave

Évora

Beja

The historic city of Évora, an easy one-and-a-halfhour drive from Lisbon, is surrounded by remnants of a 15th-century medieval wall. Its old center is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.

The smell of fresh-baked bread greeted us when we arrived early one morning. Perched on a hill overlooking expansive fields and plains, Beja was built by the Romans during the 3rd and 4th centuries, making it one of the oldest cities in the Iberian Peninsula.

“Romans settled here in the 2nd century BCE,” said Reis. “It became an important hub for trade and commerce during the Roman Empire.” We were standing at the foot of the ancient Roman Temple of Évora, considered one of the bestpreserved Roman temples in the Iberian Peninsula.

We strolled through gardens, narrow streets, and cobblestoned alleys, through ancient squares lined with restaurants and small shops selling local handicrafts. At the tiny, family-owned Botequim da Mouraria, we dined on quail eggs with sausage and ham from the prized Iberian black pig. After lunch, we visited the 12thcentury Cathedral of Évora, the largest medieval cathedral in Portugal, with two towers and a massive dome, and the Church of São Francisco, with 12 elegantly carved chapels, including the 17th-century Bones Chapel, with walls covered in skeletal human remains. Clockwise: rh2010 - stock.adobe.com; Mauro Rodrigues stock.adobe.com; Vitor Mota - stock.adobe.com; Fernando - stock.adobe.com

From there, we walked toward the city’s 15thcentury medieval wall, looking into the Moorish section, where houses were painted white to help reflect the sun and decorated on the bottom with bright bands of

color to ward off evil spirits. Beyond were vast plains, vineyards, and forests as far as we could see.

Roman Temple of Évora and cathedral

We headed to the historical town center, where small padarias were preparing pão alentejano, a traditional, long-fermented bread made with wheat flour and a natural sourdough starter. Bread has long been a staple of the Alentejo region, often referred to as the “breadbasket” of Portugal. The people of Alentejo eat it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, in soups, stews, and side dishes — even cakes.

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P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D

Estremoz We could see the famous “white city” for miles, its cluster of white homes and buildings spilling down the sides of a steep hill. There are several “white cities” in Alentejo, named for their rich deposits of marble, and their whitewashed houses. Estremoz is one of the prettiest and most historically significant. Its history goes back to Roman and Moorish times; later, it was the site of several important battles fought to gain Portugal’s independence from Spain.

Clockwise: Geza Farkas - stock.adobe.com; dudlajzov - stock.adobe.com; Cartuxa; Christophe Cappelli - stock.adobe.com; anna - stock.adobe.com

Beja Castle

It seemed fitting to stop at Ti Bia Gadelha, an ancient communal oven, where city dwellers once gathered to bake their breads. From there we headed to the town’s main attraction, the giant Beja Castle, a Gothic fortress with a 131-foot tower made of marble and limestone. From the top of the tower, we had sweeping views of the city with its remnant walls and its 28 remaining towers. Before leaving Beja, we stopped at a confeitaria in Praca da República, the largest square in the historic center, to buy pastéis de nata and other conventual sweets. The traditional pastries were once made by nuns and monks, whose recipes have been handed down through the centuries. They provided the sugar rush we needed to squeeze in a look at the recently excavated foundations of a Roman temple and to stop at the Church of Santo Amaro, dating back to the 5th century when the Visigoths were settling the region.

Did we mention Alentejo is one of the top wine-producing regions in Portugal? Another reason to visit. For more information: www.visitalentejo.pt/en/

Estremoz Castle

We entered the walled city through Porta de Évora, one of four doors in the ancient wall. We climbed twisty, narrow streets to the medieval Estremoz Castle, the showstopper of the historic old city. The castle, with an 88-foot marble tower, sits on the old city’s highest point, where we had great views of the surrounding olive groves and vineyards that stretched for miles. The only thing missing was a chilled bottle of Alentejo wine to celebrate the moment.

View from Estremoz Castle

Pastéis de nata 27

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THE

2023 READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS You, Porthole readers, have spoken … and your choices are here!

Every year, you let the world know what stands out in the world of cruise: the best ships, the best experiences on board, and the best places they go, from Angkor Wat (via the mighty Mekong) to sunny Cozumel. You’re some of the world’s savviest travelers, and when you speak, the world listens. So let’s put the guesses to rest and see who’s really the best!

! ir favorites ONE LUCKY WINNER cted at random from the thousa nds who pick the e to y winner won’t even hav ry yea r, one voter is sele Eve yea r’s luck cting Awa rds bal loting. This at Infinity Jewelry, sele in the Rea ders’ Choice virt ual shopping spree 00 $2,5 a y enjo to e r. leave hom ppe sho al son per a h the help of for me their favorite items wit "Cruising is a great way ces Laue of Bandera, Texas! n Fra to s tion tula efree way to see new pla Congra car a nce erie exp and hout mal' life t a variety of places wit to take a break from 'nor visi to way y onl the she says. "It's of variety and and meet new people," ." We hope there's lots h luggage at every stop ee! spr the hassle of dealing wit the oy Enj n. your future, Fra carefree experiences in

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2023 Readers, Choice Awards

1. Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 in New York 2. Antarctic explorer aboard Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot 3. Zip line on Royal Caribbean’s Symphony of the Seas

THE BEST CRUISE LINES

Best Ocean Line

Most Eco-Friendly Cruise Line

Best Luxury Line

Best Expedition Cruise Line

Best River Line

Best Shore Excursions

Best Cruise Line for the Money

Best Cruise Line Private Island

Royal Caribbean International Oceania Cruises

AmaWaterways

We had a tight race this year for ocean-going lines, with longtime cruise favorites Royal Caribbean International and Carnival Cruise Line facing a strong challenge from relative newcomer Viking Ocean. New ships like Carnival's Mardi Gras and Royal Caribbean's upcoming Icon of the Seas grabbed the most attention (although the enormous Oasis and Allure of the Seas still attracted a megaship’s number of fans). Luxury was also a theme in voting, with Oceania getting picked for Best Luxury Line — classic ship Regatta receiving the highest praise, surprisingly — and the luxury-expedition provider Silversea edging out more traditional expedition lines like Lindblad, Quark, and Hurtigruten to earn the title of Best Expedition Line.

Carnival Cruise Line

Best Cruise Line for Families

Disney Cruise Line

Best Cruise Line for Teens

Royal Caribbean International

Best Cruise Line for Solo Travelers

Norwegian Cruise Line

Most Romantic Cruise Line

Windstar Cruises

MSC Cruises

Silversea Expeditions MSC Cruises

Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve

Best Multi-Generational Cruise Line

Holland America Line

Best Antarctic Cruise

Ponant

Best World Cruise

Cunard

Left clockwise: Cunard; Royal Caribbean International; Ponant. Right: Carnival Cruise Line

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Best Cruise Line for the Money – Carnival Cruise Line 31

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Best Signature Cocktail – Espresso Martini, Viking

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2023 Readers, Choice Awards

1. Seabourn Encore's Signature Suite 2. Izumi Spa, Princess Cruises 3. Rudi's Sel de Mer, Holland America Line 4. Grand Dining Room, Oceania Vista

1 1

Left : cherryandbees - stock.adobe.com. Right clockwise: Seabourn, Oceania Cruises, Holland America Line; Princess Cruises

THE BEST ONBOARD EXPERIENCES

Best Onboard Activities

Royal Caribbean International

MSC Cruises, in addition to being recognized for ecological awareness and shore excursions, earned a Best Cruise Ship Entertainment award. Perhaps the policies around shows at their Broadway Theater (insisting on reserving tickets, no food in the theater, one of each show per guest per cruise) make them feel more like the shows at that other Broadway over in New York.

Holland America Line

Best Onboard Enrichment

Best Children’s Programs

Best Main Dining Room Cuisine

Best Cruise Ship Entertainment

Best Specialty Restaurant

Best Service

Cunard

Oceania Cruises

Rudi's Sel de Mer Holland America Line

Cheers to Viking Cruises, whose Espresso Martini impressed more readers than any other specialty cocktail on offer (although their mocktail menu selection Abstinence on the Beach has to deserve some kind of honorable mention for best name). Princess Cruises, creators of the Ocean Medallion service, still wows readers in the Best Technology category, while Disney Cruise Line did something they haven’t done since 2016 — beat all contenders for Best Theme Cruises.

Best Facilities for Guests with Disabilities

Best Accommodations

Seabourn

Best Casino

Norwegian Cruise Line

Best Wellness Facilities

Seabourn

Disney Cruise Line

MSC Cruises

Celebrity Cruises

Best Theme Cruises

Disney Cruise Line

Best Signature Cocktail

Espresso Martini, Viking

Best Cruise Director

Lee Mason Carnival Cruise Line

Best Spa Facilities

Best Nightlife

Best Fitness Facilities

Best Onboard Technology

Best Onboard Shopping

Best Ship Application

Princess Cruises Celebrity Cruises Carnival Cruise Line

Royal Caribbean International Princess Cruises

Virgin Voyages

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2023 Readers, Choice Awards

1. Angkor Wat on the Mekong in Cambodia 2. Bora Bora, Tahiti 3. Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul 4. A young local in South America’s Galapagos Islands

THE BEST DESTINATIONS There’s a poignancy to Porthole readers’ pick for favorite Hawaiian destination this year — Lahaina, Maui. Anyone who’s been there has a favorite memory of the place before this year’s wildfires, and our readers are united with the world of travel in rooting for a quick, meaningful recovery. European rivers as a whole received more votes than any other single cruise region this year, with the Caribbean and the Med practically tying for second. Amsterdam narrowly edged out Budapest as a favorite European river destination, while in the Med, Istanbul came out ahead. In the Caribbean, St. Maarten attracted shoppers, Grand Cayman delighted beachgoers, and the US Virgin Islands were the popular favorite overall.

Next year, we’ll have a lot more to look forward to. Until then, happy cruising!

Best European River Cruise Destination

Best Central America Cruise Destination

Best American River/ Great Lakes Itinerary

Best South America Cruise Destination

Best Asian River Destination

Best Northern Europe Cruise Destination

Amsterdam, Rhine

Lower Mississippi (St. Louis to New Orleans)

Siem Reap/Angkor Wat Mekong

Best Caribbean Cruise Destination

USVI

Best Caribbean Shopping Port

St. Maarten

Best Caribbean Beach Port

Grand Cayman

Best Alaska Cruise Destination

Juneau

Best Canada/New England Cruise Destination

Quebec City

Best Hawaii Cruise Destination

Maui (Lahaina)

Best Mexico Cruise Destination

Cozumel

Guatemala

Galapagos

Reykjavik, Iceland

Best Mediterranean Cruise Destination

Istanbul, Turkey

Best Asia/Pacific Rim Cruise Destination

Singapore

Best South Pacific Cruise Destination

Bora Bora, Tahiti

Best Middle East Cruise Destination

Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

Best Africa/Middle East Cruise Destination

Cape Town, South Africa

Best Australia/New Zealand Cruise Destination

Auckland, NZ

Clockwise from top: Luciano Mortula-LGM - stock.adobe.com; julie - stock.adobe.com; İhsan Gerçelman - stock.adobe.com; Hale M. Kell - stock.adobe.com. Right: badahos - stock.adobe.com

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Clockwise from top: Luciano Mortula-LGM - stock.adobe.com; julie - stock.adobe.com; İhsan Gerçelman - stock.adobe.com; Hale M. Kell - stock.adobe.com. Right: badahos - stock.adobe.com

Best European River Cruise Destination — Amsterdam, Rhine

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Swan Hellenic

Swan’s Nest 36

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Mooning ver SH Diana Swan Hellenic’s newest “cultural expedition” ship has a truly divine glow. By Bill Jordan

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Elegance in Adventure

Inside Diana, the interior design is clean, open, and as comfortable as the infamous RH Cloud sofa. Uncluttered, modern lines and bright, invigorating colors create an ambiance that is both welcoming and rejuvenating. What’s most surprising is the sense of space aboard the vessel. Unlike megaships that cater to thousands, Diana is built to accommodate a modest 196 guests. Ingeniously designed open areas, particularly in the main dining room and lecture theater, give an illusion of expansiveness. It’s not unlike the feeling of a private yacht which you happen to be sharing with a few friends. Even the corridors leading to the staterooms are generously proportioned, allowing two people to stroll side by side without the awkward shuffle so often encountered on other ships. This attention to space is also evident inside the staterooms themselves. Wood elements and textured fabrics infuse warmth, while the clever utilization of every nook and cranny ensures that you never feel constrained. Every inch of space has been maximized for comfort and ease of movement. Our balcony stateroom, for instance, boasted a wide outdoor space with ample seating, a cozy sitting area inside furnished with a sofa and flatscreen television, and two luxuriously comfortable beds with premium linens. The bathroom was like a sanctuary, practically an in-room spa, with seductive lighting, an expansive shower, and premium bath products. It’s enough to make anyone wish their bathroom at home was this nice … a rare feeling on a ship! Beyond the lavish accommodations, Diana offers plenty of amenities tailored to the expedition experience. From a mud room primed for boots,

parkas, and dive gear to the Basecamp, a concierge-managed full-service changing room that enables the seamless loading and unloading of passengers, every detail has been meticulously thought through. The expedition team and guest speakers help make sense of the day’s adventures in the onboard lecture theater — a feature that sets Diana apart from sister ships SH Minerva and SH Vega. With a mega screen and sound system, it provides the onboard experts the perfect facility for sharing their expertise in the landscape, wildlife, history, and culture of every destination. For those seeking relaxation, the ship’s world-class spa is manned by skilled technicians and stocked with the antioxidant-rich, all-natural products of Lajatica Bocelli 1831. Saunas, a fitness center, and even an outdoor heated swimming pool help you unwind after a day adventuring out in the world. And adventure is the heart of Diana’s promise, as each port of call promises encounters with the extraordinary.

Swan Restaurant

Swan Hellenic (x8)

hen you walk onto Swan Hellenic’s newest ship, SH Diana, you are immediately greeted with a sense of elegance and sophistication. That’s not what you might expect from an expedition ship, but the newest member of Swan Hellenic’s f leet captures the essence of high-class exploration. As soon as you step aboard, you’re enveloped by an atmosphere of refinement.

Impeccable dining

S H O R E E XCU R S IO N S A L LOW GU E S T S TO E X P LO R E LOCA L H U N T I N G A N D F I S H I N G, FA R M I N G, FO R AGI N G, A N D C U L IN A RY T R A D I T IO N S I N T H E CO M PA N Y O F A R E N OW N ED CH EF. Exploring the World

Diana is a PC-6 ice-breaker, capable of voyaging among the icebergs of the Arctic and Antarctic. But part of this ship’s yearly travels will be spent sailing the coasts of Western Europe and the Med. Some ports are familiar, but others are rarely seen by most cruise passengers. On a recent summer voyage, Diana departed from Tromsø, Norway, above the Arctic Circle, on a voyage that ended in the familiar port of Amsterdam. But in between, guests got to explore sites like the Norwegian fishing port of Svolvær, Svartisen glacier, history-laden Froya Island (home of Northern Europe’s tallest lighthouse), the village of Skjolden with its ancient Urnes Stave Church, the waterfalls of Hardangerfjord, and the tiny German island town of Helgoland, among others.

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Suite

Suite bathroom

Pool deck

Scandinavia’s king eider duck

Club Lounge

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A DV E N T U R E I S T H E H E A R T O F D IANA’S P R O M I S E ,A S E AC H P O R T O F CA L L P RO M I S E S E N C O U N T E R S W I T H T H E E X T R AO R D I N A RY.

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This kind of “cultural expedition” has been part of Swan Hellenic’s DNA since the line’s founding in the 1950s, when family-operated Swans Travel Bureau joined forces with the London University Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies, which wanted to offer members a tour of Greece with guest lecturers. The combination of intriguing itineraries, eminent lecturers, and expert expedition guides proved fascinating, and laid the foundation for the line’s business model today. Swan Hellenic brings all-inclusive luxury travel to extraordinary destinations together with geographical exploration and scientific discovery, involving renowned experts who, in addition to presentations, are on hand for informal discussion. One of the line’s latest partnerships is the SETI Explore Space at Sea Series brings a different world-renowned scientist from the SETI Institute aboard each cruise to discuss the latest discoveries in astronomy, astrophysics, astrobiology, and planetary science.

Swan Hellenic (x5)

Dining and Discovery

Yet it’s the culinary journey that can leave the most lasting impression. I always like to save the best for last, and for me that always has to do with food. The commitment to impeccable dining is unwavering, whether you opt for the main dining room, the tapas room, or just stay in for the evening with room service. As well as the astronomical partnership with the SETI Institute, Swan Hellenic has also teamed up with JRE-Jeunes Restaurateurs to create the Maris Culinary Discovery at Sea. This series of exclusive cruises each has a different JRE gourmet chef aboard who guides guests on a voyage of gastronomic discovery in parallel with the scientific lectures. Shore excursions allow guests to explore local hunting and fishing, farming, foraging, and culinary traditions in the company of a renowned chef. In the kitchen, those chefs guide the preparation of a different surprising signature dish every night, building up to an extraordinary Gala Dinner to showcase their creative skills. Diana could be more than a ship; it could also be a floating universe of exploration, luxury, and enrichment. Swan Hellenic’s commitment to offering exceptional experiences is evident in every part of the ship, from its inspired design to its knowledgeable crew. If you’re seeking an expedition that combines adventure, comfort, and intellectual stimulation, look no further.

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Another World ... Another Scotland Hebridean Princess offers an experience of travel both timeless and true.

photoenthusiast - stock.adobe.com

by Judi Cuervo

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y feet scrape against the surface of 3-billion-year-old Lewisian gneiss as I scale the boulders that surround the glistening Loch Coruisk on the Isle of Skye. My steps are the only sound aside from distant bleating of sheep and the squawk of gulls as they fly high overhead. I feel as though I’m an intruder on this magnificent, sun-drenched landscape, a tiny dot enveloped within towering mountains and verdant fields. This must be how Outlander’s Claire Randall felt when she was transported through time to another world, another Scotland. But I never touched the standing stones at Craigh na Dun. I am simply sailing Scotland’s Inner and Outer Hebridean Islands … magical and largely undiscovered … just like Hebridean Princess, the cruise ship that has taken me here.

A Wee Lass

I feel as though I’m an intruder on this magnificent, sun-drenched landscape.

Hebridean Princess entered service in 1964 as RMS Columba, a no-frills vessel that transported up to 600 passengers and 50 cars through the Western Isles of Scotland. In 1988, a 1.5 million GBP transformation converted the ship into the miniature luxury liner she is today. At a mere 2,112 grt and carrying only 48 passengers, it doesn’t take long to explore Hebridean Princess. Less a cruise ship and more a cozy, floating country home, there’s no casino, swimming pool, or lavish spa. The Columba Restaurant is her sole dining venue. Hebridean Princess offers, above all, a destination-focused experience, and one that will mesmerize those with a fascination for the flora and fauna, ancient geology, and often savage history of the remote Hebridean Islands, or those who simply wish to immerse themselves in the raw beauty of its dramatically differing landscapes. For over 30 years, I have followed the all-inclusive Hebridean Princess (transfers from Glasgow to Oban, all beverages, meals, gratuities, and tours included in fares), nearly convinced I was the only American captivated by this tiny ship. It is far better known in the United Kingdom — in fact, Queen Elizabeth II chartered her in 2006 and did so again in 2010. But on my sailing, I discover that word is getting out — I am one of seven Americans who will board the ship that day. And a few of these countrymen are already repeat Hebridean Princess guests!

Hebridean Princess’ lovely Tiree Lounge — with its tartan carpeting, carved wooden bar, and rustic inglenook fireplace — and the ship’s wood-paneled library — filled with volumes that chronicle the remote and beautiful isles of the Hebrides — are the main public spaces. Hallways, stair landings, and comfortable little nooks are adorned with fresh flowers while furnished observation areas allow guests to marvel al fresco at the spectacular scenery and midnight sunsets as Hebridean Princess navigates this remote part of the world. Surprising for such a tiny ship, cabins (designated not by a number but the name of an isle or loch in the Hebrides) are generously sized, from the top-level Isle of Arran Suite to the most humble inside accommodations — and some cabins

Hebridean Island Cruises (x7)

Aye, She's Bonnie

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Isle of Arran Suite

Tiree Lounge

Isle of Arran Suite sitting room

Tiree Lounge bar

Hallways, stair landings, and comfortable little nooks are adorned with fresh flowers.

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Glaep Yun Down A wee dram? With the vast array of single-malt whiskies stocked at The Tiree Lounge, that’s the pre-dinner route most guests take. I, however, opt for Champagne — Taittinger is poured — and discover that the bartender seems to intuitively know when I need a refill. Dinner menus aboard Hebridean Princess typically include two or three options per course and all dining requirements may be accommodated. Ayrshire pork, tender Scottish beef, and rosy lamb delight carnivores, while seafood lovers might opt for West Coast lobster tail and claw or Oban Bay scallops. I found myself intrigued by some of the vegetarian choices as well: butternut squash gnocchi and a pithivier (tender vegetables encased in a flaky puff pastry) among them.

Columba Restaurant

Whisky, haggis, and neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes).

Captain Richard Heaton

Left clockwise from top: Hebridean Island Cruises; Judi Cuervo; Hebridean Island Cruises (x2) Right top: Hebridean Island Cruises Right center: Judi Cuervo

even feature balconies! Solo travelers will be delighted to learn that 10 of Hebridean Princess’ 30 cabins are specifically for them, with no single supplement imposed. And no matter which cabin you choose, expect a modern bathroom, lovely art that reflects the isle or loch after which your cabin is named, a charming decanter of whisky on the night table, and no pesky room key to misplace. That’s right! Residents of the sparsely-populated Hebridean Islands rarely lock their doors and the practice has been adopted by Hebridean Princess (though there’s a safe in every cabin and doors may be locked from inside).

Farewell dinner

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DELICIOUS TRAVEL: Raeribus et accus sit lam imporec tempore pratenis estiorestis maxim quam et inullacim volori doluptat. Poreium licium res undi nonsentur, sam, que quam,

Of course, no celebration of Scotland is complete without a taste of haggis, the traditional meat pudding that combines sheep stomach, liver, heart, and tongue with suet, onions, oats, and herbs. Haggis stars at the Captain’s Farewell Gala, and as formally-dressed guests (men often in black tie or full kilt) look on, Captain Richard Heaton entertains us with Robert Burns’ “Address to a Haggis”: …His knife see Rustic-labour dight, An’ cut ye up wi’ ready slight, Trenching your gushing entrails bright, Like onie ditch; And then, O what a glorious sight, Warm-reekin, rich!... And with those words, the captain stabs the bulging mass, releasing its meaty contents. Soon, each guest finds before them a sampling of this traditional Scottish delicacy and their own glass of whisky. We are enchanted with the ceremony … but more than a little relieved when a full menu of dishes that don’t contain sheep’s stomach and lungs is placed before us.

Haste Ye Back! It’s near midnight and we are sailing towards the mainland and tomorrow’s disembarkation. I stand on deck beneath a sunset that’s streaked with orange, purple, and gold and, from the Tiree Lounge, I hear faint conversation, laughter, and the tinkle of stemware. Soon, I’ll find myself transported back to a more conventional world, one that does not immerse me in the haunting spirituality of the Isle of Iona and its ancient abbey, or find me being delivered via Zodiac to the uninhabited Isle of Sandray where I can wade into the impossibly blue, sparkling waters of its white-powdered beach. No more bike rides down narrow paths bordered with glowing buttercups, swaying wisps of bog cotton, and fuchsia bushes heavy with clusters of dangling blossoms. No more exquisite beauty every direction I look. But unlike Outlander’s Claire Randall, I won’t need to seek out enchanted standing stones to return to this magical part of the world. All I’ll need is another sailing aboard Hebridean Princess.

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Cunard (x2)

A New Queen is Coming

Queen Anne, the seventh Cunard ship to bear a royal title, has begun preparing for a grand debut. By Chris Frame

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For today’s Cunard, Queen Anne’s interior must balance tradition with modernity.

n the yards of Fincantieri Marghera, the 249th Cunard ship is nearing completion. The ship’s funnel has been craned aboard wearing the line’s familiar red and black colors and the name has been applied to the vessel’s bow. Queen Anne is the seventh Cunarder to hold the prestigious ‘Queen’ prefix and is due to enter service in May 2024. With work commencing over four years ago, Queen Anne’s construction took place as the global pandemic unfolded. This challenging start saw this ship follow in the footsteps of several previous Cunard queens built at times of global adversity. The first was Queen Mary (1936), a ship that redefined trans-Atlantic travel. Queen Mary became a beloved household name despite being built during the Great Depression and sailed well into the 1960s. Her fleet-mate, Queen Elizabeth (1940), entered service as a troopship, facing the fury of World War II. Yet in the postwar era, she too flourished. Then there was Queen Elizabeth 2, entering service in 1969, the same year the Boeing 747 took flight. Critics felt the ship would be unable to last in the age of the jet … but they were wrong. Cunard’s decision to develop QE2 as a floating resort saw her sail until 2008, having enjoyed a record-breaking career. While Queen Mary 2 (2004), Queen Victoria (2007), and Queen Elizabeth (2010) entered service during brighter times, they each weathered the storm of the pandemic’s global cruise shutdown. Today, Cunard’s fleet is back in service, while the brand is preparing to welcome its fourth ship in just a few months.

A New Queen

The arrival of the 113,000-grt Queen Anne will mark the first time since 1999 that Cunard has operated four ships. Queen Anne is based on the Carnival Corporation’s Pinnacle series. This series is itself a derivative of Holland America’s widely used Vista-class cruise ship. It is a platform that Cunard is well acquainted with, as Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth are variants of this class. When Cunard placed the order for the thenunnamed ship in 2017, seven years had passed since Queen Elizabeth had entered service. By the time the interior design team had been signed on, a further two years had elapsed. Thus, designers were able to reinterpret the Cunard experience aboard Queen Anne. The creative team is led by Creative Director Adam D. Tihany and includes the muchacclaimed David Collins Studio, Richmond International and Sybille de Margerie Paris. Many hours were spent trawling the mammoth Cunard archives at the University of Liverpool as the design team sought to understand the 183year history of the Cunard Line. Development of the ship’s interior has been a closely guarded secret; however, Cunard recently revealed numerous renderings of the interior spaces. They show an interior that features a link to the past while greatly expanding the horizon of Cunard’s onboard offerings. A Cunard spokesperson summed up the philosophy, telling Porthole: “Designers have reinterpreted the strong deco design language to retell the Cunard story with a contemporary lens.”

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Reinterpreting the Brand

Cunard (x4)

Queen Anne sees Cunard shift from recreation of past styles (as seen aboard Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth) to a design style that brings a fresh approach. This decision links Queen Anne with the original queens, which were renowned for pushing the limits of what was considered “normal shipboard architecture.” When designing Queen Mary, Cunard embraced Art Deco. Her interiors represented a significant departure from the Edwardian style of past Cunard liners. Art Deco was so well executed aboard Queen Mary that she remains one of the finest examples of the style to this day. Fast forward to the 1960s and the brand once again shifted perspective. QE2 abandoned Art Deco, replacing it with a modern 60s interior. The ship was lauded as being at the cutting edge of style and design, appealing to a whole new generation of travellers who had never considered a holiday aboard ship. For today’s Cunard, Queen Anne’s interior must balance tradition with modernity. Designers have embraced this challenge, utilizing history as a storytelling device to link the past to new and exciting spaces aboard.

Britannia Restaurant

The design team

Grand Suite great room 51

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Cunard

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The Queen Anne Approach

Queen Anne will introduce new venues not seen before on Cunard ships. One is the Bright Lights Society. With a name and interior design inspired by Servia (the first Cunard liner built with electric lighting), a key element of this space is the striking illuminated ceiling, adorned with countless “bright lights.” Curved bulkheads draw the sightlines skyward to ensure that the feature element of this space creates a “wow” moment for passengers entering the room. The Queens Room is a beloved Cunard signature space, interpreted differently aboard each ship in the fleet. Queen Anne’s design is inspired by Cunard’s historic role in global travel, with a Cunard spokesperson noting: “The room tells the story of how Cunard brought the world together by connecting people and continents.” Indeed, the trans-Atlantic crossings undertaken by Cunard’s first ships, Britannia, Acadia, Caledonia, and Columbia, were pioneering steps in building an interconnected world. Cunard’s regularly scheduled crossings introduced reliability, safety, and consistency — the bedrock of modern travel. These links to the past are continued in Queen Anne’s Britannia Club Restaurant. Here, the décor is inspired by the cities of Liverpool and Boston, Cunard’s original British and American homeports. The restaurant name, as well as imagery throughout the space, further pays tribute to Britannia, the first Cunarder built to connect these ports. Additionally, Cunard has revealed glimpses of the extensive Mareel Spa facility. This space features a wellness studio, with renditions showing an outdoor oasis, allowing passengers to connect with the ocean in a first for the Cunard fleet.

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“Sailing Queen Anne on her maiden voyage will be a career-defining moment for me that I will cherish for the rest of my life.”

Captain Inger Klein Thorhauge

Keel-laying ceremony

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Click here to take a Queen Anne video shipyard tour with author Chris Frame.

Cunard has also revealed the ship’s first master, Captain Inger Klein Thorhauge. She has been standing by the new vessel, and participated in the October 2022 keel-laying, as well as the more recent float-out in May of this year.

Cunard (x4)

Building Suspense

Bucking the trend of modern cruise lines, Cunard embraced tradition when it opted not to reveal the ship’s name until well into the building process. This is a trait Queen Anne shares with the original queens. This move created great excitement and speculation as to the name of the vessel, which was revealed February last year. While arguably less known than the namesakes of the existing fleet, Queen Anne’s reign at the dawn of the 18th century saw many reforms occur throughout Britain. These included, “the unification of Great Britain and Britons pushing the boundaries of arts and education, enabling great progress and change,” a Cunard spokesperson told Porthole. To link the name of the ship with the interior spaces, Royal College of Art graduate Tommy Camerno was commissioned to create a contemporary portrait of HM Queen Anne. Cunard revealed the artwork in

London last year, noting it: “embodies the monarch’s essence through an unexpected, present-day lens.” The artwork will be displayed in the Queens Room. Cunard has also revealed the ship’s first master, Captain Inger Klein Thorhauge. She has been standing by the new vessel, and participated in the October 2022 keel-laying, as well as the more recent float-out in May of this year. Of taking command of Queen Anne, Captain Thorhauge said, “Taking the helm of a new Cunard ship and steering the company into a new era is an amazing honor for me. It really will be the pinnacle of my career and I am hugely proud to be playing a part in the Cunard legacy. Sailing Queen Anne on her maiden voyage will be a career-defining moment for me that I will cherish for the rest of my life.” The maiden voyage will depart Southampton on May 3, 2024. That voyage, which sold out within minutes of being announced, will sail for 7 days to La Coruña and Lisboa before returning to Southampton.

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American Queen Voyages

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CRUISING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF LEWIS AND CLARK An American Queen Voyages paddlewheeler plies the Pacific Northwest rivers navigated by the Corps of Discovery. by Katherine Rodeghier

No Champagne toasts, lobster dinners, or comfy beds awaited Meriwether Lewis and William Clark in 1805 as they began the last leg of their journey to the Pacific Ocean. But I traced their route while enjoying these and other creature comforts aboard American Empress as it cruised the Snake and Columbia Rivers across the Pacific Northwest.

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fter the Louisiana Purchase roughly doubled the size of the United States, President Thomas Jefferson was keen to learn what lay there. He entrusted Meriwether Lewis with leading a team of explorers. Lewis recruited friend and fellow military man William Clark as co-captain of what became known as the Corps of Discovery. The expedition set off near St. Louis in May 1804 and returned more than two years later. The story of Lewis and Clark’s exploration ranks as “The Iliad and The Odyssey of the American West,” said Laurence Cotton, the American Empress “Riverlorian.”

Lewis & Clark route Louisiana Purchase

First encounter American Empress catches up with the explorers at the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater rivers. Here, two cities straddle a state line: Lewiston, Idaho, and Clarkston, Washington, named for … guess who? My cruise embarked in Clarkston for the westward voyage. Nine-day itineraries operate from early spring to late fall aboard the 217-passenger paddlewheeler operated by American Queen Voyages. The Lewis and Clark story unfolds in presentations on board and shore excursions.

Peace medal

They stumbled upon the Nez Perce and asked for assistance. Should they help them or let them die? A female elder urged her people to do them no harm. They fed them, sheltered them and nursed them back to health. Had they not cared for the Corps, the expedition might have ended there.

Native American culture I learned more about the Nez Perce in a film and exhibits of artifacts at the Nez Perce National Historical Park. Back on the Empress, a citizen of the Nez Perce nation portrayed tribal culture through song, dance, and storytelling. Throughout their journey, Lewis and Clark encountered as many as 50 tribes and received help from more than two dozen. Cotton passes around a peace medal Lewis presented to them. An engraving of Jefferson appears on one side, the other depicts two clasped hands and a tomahawk crossed with a peace pipe. One reason Native Americans accepted the Corps was the presence of Sacagawea and her baby. A citizen of the Shoshone nation, she was the wife of FrenchCanadian fur trader Toussaint Charbonneau. Both acted as interpreters for the Corps. Clark wrote Sacagawea “reconciles all the Indians as to our friendly intentions.”

Dugout canoe

J.R. Spencer gives a presentation on Nez Perce culture

Starving and dehydrated, they suffered from frostbite and exhaustion. “I have been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life,” wrote Clark in his journal.

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A Clarkston guide recounted the crucial first encounter between the Corps and the Nez Perce nation of Native Americans. The explorers spent 11 days crossing the Bitterroot Mountains, the most difficult part of their journey. Starving and dehydrated, they suffered from frostbite and exhaustion. “I have been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life,” wrote Clark in his journal.

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American Empress has 9-day itineraries on the Snake and Columbia Rivers from early spring to late fall.

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Crown Point, Vista House, and the Columbia River Gorge

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On to the Columbia

Early pioneers on the Oregon Trail stopped here because the mountains and steep canyon downriver made travel by wagon impossible.

The Corps passed through the Columbia River Gorge, where flowing water cut through the Cascade Mountain Range. Rapids made that journey treacherous. I enjoyed smooth cruising as American Empress negotiated locks at eight dams: four on the Columbia, four on the Snake. The elevation changes 738 feet, more than eight times the lift of the Panama Canal. Rapids were especially dangerous at The Dalles, a French term meaning “the flagstones,” named for the large basaltic rocks that create obstacles in the river. Early pioneers on the Oregon Trail stopped here because the mountains and steep canyon downriver made travel by wagon impossible. Some loaded their possessions onto rafts for a hazardous journey through the Gorge. Their story is told at the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center & Museum in The Dalles, Oregon. I was fascinated by exhibits devoted to the geology of the Gorge. During the Ice Age, huge glacier-bound lakes in what is now Montana repeatedly broke through ice dams, sending waves up to 1,000 feet high surging west. These Missoula Floods carved the gorge and left deposits of nutrient-rich soil responsible for the fine Oregon and Washington state wines I sipped on board. The Dalles marks the eastern gateway to the 85-mile-long Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, where I saw some of the 77 waterfalls on the Oregon side alone that give this stretch of river the nickname “Waterfall Alley.” For another perspective, I joined an excursion along the Historic Columbia River Highway to Crown Point scenic overlook. We had a view of the gorge 693 feet below, Vista House (a 1918 rest stop on the National Register of Historic Places), and 620-foot Multnomah Falls, the tallest in Oregon.

Cape Disappointment lighthouse

Arriving at the Pacific In Astoria, Oregon, my motorcoach climbed a steep hill to the Astoria Column for views of the Columbia River, the Coast Range of mountains and, in the distance, the Pacific Ocean. Murals on the 125-foot-tall column depict the region’s history, especially the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

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Mt. Hood

Astoria Column

Mariners call the mouth of the Columbia “The Graveyard of the Pacific” for the bar of sand and silt the river drops as it enters the ocean. The Columbia River Maritime Museum shares harrowing stories of river-bar pilots guiding ships through the passage and rescuing crews from shipwrecks. A shore excursion travels to Lewis and Clark National Historical Park along the lower Columbia River and Pacific Coast. The Corps spent 10 days searching for a winter camp in this area. After rejecting Cape Disappointment on the north side of the river, they moved to the south bank and promptly planted the U.S. flag at what became Fort Clatsop. The Corps remained for 106 days, all but 12 rainy. When food ran short, they hunted elk and deer and ate roots and tubers, then gladly departed on March 23, 1806, for their return journey. At the end of its westward cruise, American Empress doubles back, too, but only a short distance to Vancouver, Washington, where I crossed the Columbia to Portland International Airport for my flight home. Once airborne, I could look down on the river and ponder the many hardships faced by the Corps of Discovery more than two centuries ago.

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Good Vibes

Around the World

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. By Alex Darlington

Necker Island

Hats off to Virgin Limited Edition, Sir Richard Branson’s prestigious collection of luxury accommodations, for raising awareness of — and money for — mangrove conservation. Visitors to Necker Island, Sir Branson’s private island in the British Virgin Islands, are being encouraged to make a contribution to the environment by taking the mangrove conservation tour. In 2017, Hurricane Irma destroyed 90 percent of the territory’s mangrove population. Virgin Limited, in partnership with the non-profit organization Unite BVI, is working to repair the damage. The tour’s goal is to support the re-planting and protection of the important mangrove ecosystem. Guests are able to see firsthand that we can all make a difference.

Sir Richard Branson

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Virgin’s Forest

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BEST LIFE

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Pandaw Supports Medical Action Myanmar It’s always good to report on cruise lines that not only provide luxurious vacations for their guests, but also take strong action in making the places they visit better. Pandaw Cruises, an acknowledged leader in luxury river cruising, has established Pandaw Clinics — facilities dedicated to getting quality medical care to those who suffer most in the war-torn nation of Myanmar. With the help of the benevolent organization Medical Action Myanmar (MAM), Pandaw has, to date, established seven clinics in the Pagan region alone. They treat more than 5,000 patients a month. Staff at the clinics volunteer their time so all donations go directly where they’re needed, not to adminstrative offices. Recently, MAM managed to raise nearly $10,000 in just 12 days to serve Myanmar’s most remote and vulnerable communities. Partnering with Pandaw and other generous people and organizations who donated prizes, MAM held its first Big Prize Draw back in July. Prizes included two tickets to see Olly Murs live at Newmarket Racecourses, four tickets to “We Will Rock You” by Queen and Ben Elton, and a walking tour of Yangon for two. The cash value of those three prizes alone totals more than $1,835.

Expedition Line’s Landmark Impact Report Australia’s No. 1 expedition-travel company has just released its firstever environmental impact report, leading the way for a more conscious travel industry. Aurora Expeditions, long known for taking guests to the world’s most untouched areas,

recognizes its responsibility to protect those fragile places. “We are incredibly proud to release our inaugural Impact Report, which outlines our commitment to sustainability and our vision to be the global leader in sustainable expedition travel,” says Michael Heath, the line’s CEO.

The report reviews the company’s program of initiatives and objectives. Among its goals are achieving 100 percent climate-neutral status, reduction of plastics, and a concentrated focus on better water conservation and waste management projects.

Buddhist monks in Myanmar.

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Good Vibes

Uninhabited, Untamed, & Untouched The beauty of Panama’s rain forest and the San Blas Islands can unlock a different way to travel … and simply to be. by Michelle Schultz 64

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BEST LIFE

UTSIDE OF THE CITY AND BEYOND THE CANAL ZONE, Panama presents a visitor with surprisingly unspoiled nature. So be sure to hone your listening

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skills and practice watching for the rustling of trees in the canopy above.

The rain forest in Panama covers 63 percent of the country and sequesters 160 tons of carbon per hectare. Offshore, the small country boasts 1,000-plus islands across two oceans, providing critical foundations for coral-reef ecosystems and serving sailors and oceanographers alike as sea-level indicators. “Uninhabited” refers only to us, the humans. The rain forest in Panama has a plethora of furry inhabitants. Monkeys of at least six species can be found in the dense rain forest, islands, and around the city — Panama City skyline to your right and monkeys to your left. If you are one of the lucky, you can catch a show from above in the canopy around the city. Yes, yes, there are those adorable sloths — pygmy three-toed, brown, and two-toed species found in Panama. Cute they are, but they don’t put on a show like the monkeys. Take photos of the sloths and switch to a video for the monkey show. (And don’t forget to watch where you are walking as there are colorful but poisonous frogs in Panama.) “Untamed” is the howler monkey. Imagine a horror flick with the loudest guttural sound you have ever heard. That might be the scariest sound you will hear in Panama, or anywhere. You won’t believe it when you see it’s from a monkey that weighs only 17.6 pounds. Scary in sound but cute enough to want to cuddle.

They are wise to humans, though, and usually try to ignore us. But don’t fret, because they can be up to 3 miles away and still be heard. You tell yourself that as they begin, while you’re either backing away from that sound at the tree line, or enjoying sundowners at a city café. “Untouched beauty” may or may not be true of the spider monkey in Panama. A particular inhabitant in the San Blas Islands has been known to interact with guests on his island; we will assume he is in charge. That’s Mobly, the spider monkey. (Please don’t quote me on his name, though, as there is a language barrier with the indigenous Guna Yala Indians who inhabit the islands and speak their own language.) Despite the language barrier, the Guna Yala are very inviting and pleased to share their piece of paradise with you. So, imagine walking along the most beautiful white sand, palm tree-lined beach, and up walks a monkey. Mobly grabs your hand to continue strolling with you. That’s right, the monkey who lives on an island with only two families of Guna Yala has just held your hand. I can’t be sure what would be going through your mind while Mobly approached you, but I know what I was thinking: “Do I have my camera? If I take the camera out, will it scare him? If I take the pictures, will I miss the experience myself?” Whew! Who knew monkeys would cause so much excitement?

Wooden canoes of the San Blas Islands

Guna Yala traditional jewelry

San Blas Island huts

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Good Vibes

Spider monkey

There are over 1,002 bird species, 229 species of frogs, some small wildcats, anteaters, and caimans. Oh! And of course, the sloths and monkeys.

Anteater

Keel-billed toucan

Margay

Caiman

Red eyed frog

Sloth

After the stroll, you sit on a log to rest, and Mobly jumps up on your lap and onto your shoulders. Nervous? Maybe. But you would be gleaming from the inside out. Have your camera ready. Before the sun sets and the howlers come out, swim up to the beach in the crystal-clear waters with a banana. It will float, so you can retrieve it if you lose it. Mobly can be found in his human companion’s hut resting in the shade. A banana will undoubtedly get his attention. Maybe he will come out and accept the banana gift right from your hands. Then you can wander around the sand yard to admire the ingenuity of the Guna Yala—scraps from here and there to make a home. Pieces of boats, pallets, and lost trees tied together for walls and a roof. If you are like me, you want to hang around to see if Mobly eats the banana. Let’s find out if monkeys peel their banana from the end that we consider the bottom. The price for admission is a trip to Panama, and you get to experience the rain forest with all its flora and fauna. That’s over 1,002 bird species, 229 species of frogs, some small wildcats, anteaters, and caimans. Oh! And of course, the sloths and monkeys. When visiting this country, don’t forget the 1,000-plus islands in Panamanian waters … islands lined with mangroves that filter water pollutants and reduce erosion … the white-sand beaches that can have a calming effect on most of us. And this is just a sample of what you will see with shoes on. Put on fins and a mask and dive in, and you’ll find yourself in an entirely different scene.

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BEST LIFE

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Leland & Sea

In Search of The Marquesas Steve Leland travels the world in style. Now, he’s sailing on an Aranui freighter-cruise through French Polynesia. by Steve Leland

ext time I’m in a cruise-ship hot tub with strangers and they’re throwing out all the fabulous ships they’ve been on and places they’ve been to, I’m ready to take up the challenge. Watch the blank stares and puzzled looks when I casually name drop the Aranui 5 and how I just loved Fakarava and Ua Huka. Now, that’ll be a conversation starter for any occasion. Cruising French Polynesia’s mystical pocket of the South Pacific, Aranui 5 has

successfully provided a supply-chain lifeline to remote islands as a cargo vessel while at the same time catered to the whims of avid adventurers seeking unique experiences aboard a cruise ship. As the fourth generation of the company’s dual-purpose vessels, the ship may be somewhat unconventional in its exterior aesthetic but it convincingly finds its way into a niche of cruising. The bow of the ship is dedicated to transporting cargo while the multi-deck aft section is blanketed with balconies, a swimming pool, lounges and even a spa, providing all the elements you’d expect from a cruise ship. Once on board, you’ll soon forget that you’re sharing the ship with mystery cargo containers, pallets of lumber, corrugated roofing, and frozen foods. However, what you’ll remember forever is sharing the ship with like-minded intrepid travelers who appreciate offthe-radar destinations.

All Features Great And Small

Flying the f lag of France, you’ll notice the ship has a distinct international air, with all announcements and programs presented in both English and French. Aranui 5 accommodates 230 passengers in categories that run the gamut from extra-spacious deluxe suites and superior staterooms with balconies to comfortable staterooms with portholes. There’s even sharedspace dormitory-style cabins for budget-minded travelers. The super-sized multi-tiered sun deck surrounding the swimming pool is a welcome departure from crowded areas found on similarsized vessels. A cash snack bar and a tattoo parlor lend a bit of quirkiness to the vessel and, for a touch of personal pampering, there’s a spa providing island-inspired massage treatments.

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by Steve Leland

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BEST LIFE Early risers can participate in stretch-and-walk sessions, or take in a coffee while looking over the cargo deck from the lofty Sky Bar before a buffet breakfast. To further your travel horizons, guest lecturers present enrichment seminars on island culture and history. Slightly staggered seating times for dinner provide an efficient, family-style service in the ship’s dining room with complimentary bottles of red and white wines set on each table. Casual dress is not only accepted but encouraged. It’s unpretentious, simple, and it all works. Shortly before sailing from Papeete, Tahiti, colorful music and dance is presented on deck against a backdrop of a blazing sunset off the stern of the ship. With isolated island communities anxiously awaiting the arrival of supplies loaded onto the cargo

deck (and with passengers embraced in comfort), Aranui 5 slips out of the port on its way to the Marquesas Islands.

The Land Of Men

Calm seas facilitate a good night’s sleep, and a new day begins with Aranui 5 entering the vast lagoon of Fakarava in the Tuamotu Archipelago. The ship drops anchor and disembarks a payload of giddy passengers onto specially designed landing craft destined for an escape to a deserted beach. With swaying coconut palms providing merciful shade, the never-ending stretch of blinding white sand gently descends into the crystalline turquoise waters. While we revel in our newfound paradise, crew members prepare a spread of salads, rice, chicken, ribs. and fresh fish: a celebratory feast fit for a Polynesian king.

In contrast to our leisurely day in the sun, the ship’s deck crew has been busy discharging cargo in the small village across the lagoon. Once their day’s work is completed, the ship returns to reclaim its guests and the 1,000-mile journey to the Marquesas continues. These remote islands have beckoned to explorers, writers, and artists for centuries. Men such as Paul Gauguin, Herman Melville, and Robert Louis Stevenson each found the allure of its people and the rugged, breathtaking landscapes irresistible inspiration for their work. This archipelago might be off-piste for mainstream cruise itineraries but Aranui 5 is far from mainstream.

French Polynesia

The bow of the ship is dedicated to transporting cargo while the multi-deck aft section is blanketed with balconies, a swimming pool, lounges and even a spa, providing all the elements you’d expect from a cruise ship. On arrival in Nuku Hiva, passengers board a caravan of four-wheeldrive vehicles to traverse the towering mountain ridge in a hairpin drive revealing breathtaking scenery of cascading waterfalls, emerald forests, and basalt pinnacles piercing the clouds.

Nuku Hiva

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On arrival in Nuku Hiva, passengers board a caravan of four-wheel-drive vehicles to traverse the towering mountain ridge in a hairpin drive revealing breathtaking scenery of cascading waterfalls, emerald forests, and basalt pinnacles piercing the clouds. Costumed dancers in tribal regalia present a cultural performance at the base of a 650-year-old banyan tree at the entrance to an ancient archaeological site. Back aboard for the evening, guests decked out in flowered pareus, shirts, and headbands add color to the festive atmosphere as the crew lays out a magnificent buffet of Marquesan foods to celebrate Polynesian night under the stars. The fascinating cultural revival of the Marquesas is on full display during complimentary excursions in five more ports. The island community of Ua Pou treats guests to a fruit tasting, a tribal show, and a hosted lunch at a local restaurant. The ship’s spectacular maneuvering into the port of Ua Huka leads into a day of viewing ancient petroglyphs, the sea museum, and an umu-style barbecue lunch. Hiva Oa and neighboring Tahuata Island

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Leland & Sea

Traditional wooden tiki

provide a 2-day, three-port exploration of ancient tikis that recount the sometimes tragic history of foreign incursions. We revisit the art and life of Paul Gauguin, view his grave, and take a walk through the Gauguin museum in the island’s principal village, Atuona. As a fitting way to say adieu to the Marquesas, villagers demonstrate craft-making traditions at the cultural center on Fatu Hiva. Enthusiastic hikers take on a challenging, 15-kilometer (9.3-mile) journey along the lofty mountain ridge in order to fully grasp the stunning beauty of the island, while others cruise the coastline and take in views from a different perspective. As Aranui 5 glides into Hanavave, the photogenic masterpiece of the bay casts a spell of pure magic with majestic basalt spires reaching upward and giant palms casting shadows onto the shimmering waters. Prior to arrival back in Papeete, the ship provides an opportunity to take in an encore: another day spent basking on the beaches of Rangiroa, an atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago. The magnificent lagoon sparkles in the Polynesian sun with coral gardens providing safe harbor for a multitude of fish. C’est magnifique!

Half Cargo, Half Cruise, All Unique

Unique experiences like this create indelible memories. Observing the choreography of the cargo crew as they unload and load essential goods in every port is as fascinating as the island excursions themselves. It’s quite normal to enjoy a cruise to Europe or the Caribbean, but if you’re anything like me … I search for the road less traveled with a twist of adventure. I’m happy I discovered that road in the islands of the Marquesas.

Clockwise from top left: daboost - stock.adobe.com; Aranui (x3)

Aranui 5 accommodates 230 passengers in categories that run the gamut from extra-spacious deluxe suites and superior staterooms with balconies to comfortable staterooms with portholes. There’s even shared-space dormitory-style cabins for budgetminded travelers.

BEST LIFE

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for some, feeling

LEFT OUT lasts more than a moment.

We can change that. We’ve all had moments where we’ve felt we didn’t belong. But for people who moved to this country, that feeling lasts more than a moment. Together, we can build a better community. Learn how at BelongingBeginsWithUs.org

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10/18/23 2:04 PM

Sail Away

BEST LIFE

The City of Lights takes on a special glow as the year sinks toward its longest night. In the square also known as Place Internationale, the world’s greatest designers and grandest hotels bask in the warmth of holiday wishes, even in the beautiful depths of winter.

Tim Mannakee/ AWL Images

PARIS - Place VendÔme

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10/18/23 1:46 PM

Time is running out to protect our forests. Act now. wwf.org/love

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10/18/23 1:59 PM

“WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU SAW SOMETHING FOR THE FIRST TIME?” SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK

Find your next first time at Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine. Subscribe at porthole.com       

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10/18/23 2:00 PM

Porthole Cruise and Travel, December 2023

Articles inside

Porthole Cruise and Travel, December 2023