A Jungle Lab for Luxury Living
10.2024
A Calmer Camino Strolling to Santiago
International Istanbul Crossroads of Cuisines
Loveliest Light Shows Skyline Spectacles
CARNIVAL FIRENZE
Where China and Italy meet the U.S. and Mexico at sea The Brixham trawler
PROVIDENT
sets sail to Scotland
new a era CUNARD'S VERSION
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TO THE CURIOUS
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A WORLD WHERE INNOVATION MEETS BEAUTY Discover a world of beauty on a new ship class to cruise the Caribbean, designed for immersive and enriching experiences at sea. Where elegant European design meets American comfort, where cultures unite on a ship designed for the worldly, curious traveler. Journey on a ship with distinctive international style, powered by lower-emission fuel, and full of sophistication.
Discover more at msccruises.com
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A NEW WORLD OF CRUISING
SAILING FROM MIAMI | APRIL 2025
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European beauty in Cunard style ®
Discover Europe’s breathtaking wonders on board the new Queen Anne.® Shimmering Norwegian fjords and picturesque British countryside. Icelandic waterfalls and lively Mediterranean cities. Be amazed by stunning scenes along Europe’s shores as you sail on a ship that is modern yet timeless, with the White Star Service™ and elevated experiences you’ll only find on Cunard.®
PortholeAd-Spread-Sep2024.indd 1 Cunard Line QAspread-2 - PH253.indd 4
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2025 Europe Voyages Roundtrip London
British Isles 14 nights May 18 North Cape Discovery 12 nights Jun 8 Iceland & British Isles 14 nights Jun 20 Italy, France & Spain 16 nights Jul 11 Norwegian Fjords 7 nights Jul 27 To view more voyages, visit Cunard.com/QueenAnne © 2024 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Anne, and White Star Service are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.
Contact your Travel Advisor | Call (800) 728-6273 | Visit Cunard.com/Port
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Crown Brilliant Collection
The Art of Sparkle E X C L U S I V E LY A T
Alaska • Amber Cove • Antigua • Aruba • Bahamas • Barbados • Belize • Bermuda • Cabo San Lucas Costa Maya • Cozumel • Curaçao • Grand Cayman • Grand Turk • Jamaica • Orlando • Puerto Vallarta Roatan • San Juan • Sawgrass Mills • St. Kitts • St. Lucia • St. Maarten • St. Thomas • Taino Bay • Tortola
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PUBLISHER’S LETTER
OCTOBER 2024
Away to School The best education in the world is … the world. Do you remember the feeling of going back to school? Sure, there was the heaviness that came from the end of summer vacation, and nobody looks forward to homework. But the thrill of a new pair of sneakers, new people to meet, and new discoveries to make more than made up for that. You might even make yourself a whole new you! The end of summer always has this tensed-up excitement about it, and that’s the feeling I hope you get from this issue of Porthole. In our Style & Design section on page 14, we’ve got a collection of essentials for budding “road scholars” ready to explore the world. On page 24, Lisa Morrow schools us on the international food scene in Istanbul’s restaurants, while Kate Wickers, on page 60, explores a luxury laboratory for indulgent, eco-friendly vacationing in Colombia’s Calanoa Amazonas. Cruise veteran Jason Leppert casts his learned eye over Carnival Firenze on page 42, introducing newcomers to the global influences still evident in an Italian ship built for the Chinese market that’s now sailing Mexico itineraries for an American line. Chris Frame, a cruise historian with several books to his credit, gives an equally in-depth appraisal of Cunard Line’s newest addition, Queen Anne, on page 32, for our Day@Sea ship review.
AS I WRITE THIS, I’ve just finished a series of trips that started in Fort Lauderdale, then passed through Maine, Athens, Istanbul, and Barcelona before bringing me to Copenhagen. By the end of next month, I’ll have had new experiences in Oslo, Bergen, Tromsø, Athens (again), Rome, Barcelona (it’s new every time!), and I’m about to be packing sweaters for a voyage to Montréal and Québec City. For some people, this might seem like an ongoing vacation, but it’s not. It’s really like I’m going back to school, over and over again — in the best possible way.
We’ve got a new way to experience an ancient pilgrimage with Kevin Revolinski’s story on the Camino de Santiago on page 28, and we sail into history aboard a sailing vessel taking guests like writer Cat Thomson up the Scottish coast on page 50. What better way to learn about the world and all the people in it? There’s more to learn about in this issue, and a lot more of the world to enjoy. May all your future travels bring you plenty of enriching experiences. Bon voyage!
Bill Panoff Publisher, Porthole Cruise and Travel bpanoff@ppigroup.com
See You on Social ! Facebook.com/CruiseTravelBP/ Instagram.com/cruisetravelBP/ Twitter.com/cruisetravelBP Tiktok.com/@CruiseandTravelBP YouTube.com/@CruiseandTravelBP Linkedin.com/company/porthole-cruise-magazine
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PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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ATLAS ALWAYS INCLUDED Expedition Guides + Enriching Experiences, Cultural Immersion, Unlimited Wines + Spirits, L’OCCITANE Amenities, Gratuities and More
CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR OR OUR VOYAGE SPECI ALISTS AT 844.799.3480
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CONTRIBUTORS
OCTOBER 2024
BILL PANOFF
Publisher/Editor-in-Chief
LINDA DOUTHAT
Assoc. Publisher/Creative Director
GRANT BALFOUR Managing Editor
SKIP ANDERSON Art Director
SARA LINDA Proofreader
Chris Frame
Jason Leppert
Lisa Morrow
Cat Thomson
Kate Wickers
ALEX DARLINGTON, CHRIS FRAME, STEVE LELAND, JASON LEPPERT, LOLA MÉNDEZ, LISA MORROW, KEVIN REVOLINSKI, CAT THOMSON, KATE WICKERS Contributing Writers
ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, AWL IMAGES, CHRIS FRAME, ISTOCK, JASON LEPPERT, CAMPBELL LINDSAY, KEVIN REVOLINSKI, UNSPLASH Contributing Photographers
SALES OFFICES
Chris is a frequent lecturer aboard the Cunard fleet, has authored many ocean liner books including QM2: A Photographic Journey, Queen Victoria: A Photographic Journey, and Queen Elizabeth: A Photographic Journey. Since 1999 he has run www.chriscunard. com, a popular independent website dedicated to Cunard Line.
Jason is a 30-something cruise expert with more than 115 sailings under his belt. He’s been cruising since he was 2, thanks to his parents’ passion for travel. He’s the founding editor of PopularCruising. com; producer of the Popular Cruising YouTube channel; and a senior writer at TravelPulse.
Lisa is an Australian travel writer who has lived in Istanbul and other parts of Turkey for more than 15 years. She explores the everyday extraordinary of life in Istanbul and shares her enthusiasm and passion for Turkey and its people through her travel writing, website, and five books.
Cat is a Scottish freelance journalist who writes about travel, food, and drink for publications including Scotsman, Scotland on Sunday, Scottish Field, Sunday Post, Delicious Magazine, and The Times.
Kate is a British freelance journalist, novelist, and world traveler. Her work includes travel, culture, and food features for international publications, including The Telegraph, The Scotsman, The Daily Mail, The Australian, Islands, and The Globe & Mail. Her first travel memoir, Shape of a Boy, was published in 2022.
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OCTOBER 2024 ISSUE 253 Cover image: In April, Queen Anne was met in Southampton, England, with a majestic welcome, becoming the fourth member of Cunard’s fleet — which now bear the names of every English queen regnant (that’s “ruling queen”) in the last millennium.
Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2024 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Eastern time; email us at subscription@porthole.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year digital subscription (6 issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax. To make address changes or ask questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email subscription@porthole.com.
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PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS. Stop at any of our ports to experience unique culture, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with endless shopping and attractions. Come experience the best the Caribbean has to offer.
St.
J O H N
St.
C R O I X
St.
T H O M A S
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CONTENTS
42
50
Day@Sea Welcoming Her Majesty
A Multi-Cultural Carnival
All Hands to the Past
Queen Anne becomes the latest majestic vessel to join the fleet of queens.
Carnival Firenze sails in Mexico … via America, China, and Italy?
Sailing a 1924 wooden trawler around the islands of the West Coast of Scotland
by Chris Frame
by Jason Leppert
by Cat Thomson
Left: Cunard
32
Right, clockwise from top right: Max Maximov - stock.adobe.com, Chem Chem Safaris (x2), Ravouna 1906, Travis - stock.adobe.com, Vector Tradition - stock.adobe.com
OCTOBER 2024
12
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20 08 Publisher’s Letter 10 Contributors PLANET PLAYGROUND
14 Style & Design Road Scholars 20 Shore Leave Some of the world’s most striking
light shows, in some of the world’s most amazing places. by Lola Méndez
24 Wine & Dine Istanbul has a food scene that’s global in scope. by Lisa Morrow
28
28 Roads & Rails Making a pilgrimage along
24
Istanbul
Spain 58
BEST LIFE
58 Good Vibes
News
Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington
60
Getting Around
South America’s luxury lab for sustainable living by Kate Wickers
63 Set-Jetting
What famous show shot scenes here?
65 Leland & Sea
This issue, he weighs three lines’ approaches to luxury cruising. by Steve Leland
70 #CruiseForGood Olympic surfers in Tahiti
Left: Cunard
Right, clockwise from top right: Max Maximov - stock.adobe.com, Chem Chem Safaris (x2), Ravouna 1906, Travis - stock.adobe.com, Vector Tradition - stock.adobe.com
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Spain’s Camino of Santiago by Kevin Revolinski
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STYLE & DESIGN
PLANET PLAYGROUND
Road Scholars Back to school? Out on vacation? Either way, we’re ready!
IT’S THE TIME WHEN SUMMER ENDS and we get ready for new adventures. Whether it’s heading back to school for some book-learning, or entering a different kind of class on our luxe expeditions to the Med, the islands, and points beyond, here’s how we’re getting prepped.
Wrapped As light as a scarf, as cozy as a shawl, Quince has made a Mongolian Cashmere Wrap that’s as pretty as it is practical … ideal for a long flight or a cool evening out.
You’ll always need a way to carry a few things here and there. L.L. Bean’s Boat and Tote remains a capable classic, handsewn in Maine out of builder’s canvas just like it was in 1944, able to lift 500 pounds without splitting. 14
Quince, L.L. Bean
Totally
PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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STYLE & DESIGN
PLANET PLAYGROUND
Self Care As any Rhodes Scholar understands, “knowing yourself is the beginning of all wisdom.” The first step toward that is self care, which the skin scientists at Rhode perfected with their Vanilla Peptide Lip Treatment that moisturizes and nourishes, makes lips full and glossy, and also tastes great.
limited edition shades
Wizards at Jao Brand have taken natural ingredients — nut and seed oils — and formulated them into pollution protection. Phytoceramides help Seed PLS shield face, body, and hair, while sweet-smelling Hand Salve rejuvenates and beautifies hands and feet. 16
Rhode, Jao Brand
Head to Toe
PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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CRUISE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD
CRUISE FROM MIAMI!
PortMiami.biz #WeLoveCruisingFromMiami
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STYLE & DESIGN
PLANET PLAYGROUND
Write Send a message (or jot down a memory) with simple pleasure. Top-quality pens have become commonplace, but Blackwing’s vintage Matte Pencils look great, feel good in the hand, and come with exactly the right grade of graphite for you, whether that’s extra firm (Natural), firm (602), balanced (Pearl), or soft (Matte).
see Emily Nathan, curator of the website Tiny Atlas Quarterly, has collected sublime images of boundaries between land and sea in Coastlines: At the Water’s Edge. The subjects range from balmy tropics to forested fjords, focusing with an artist’s eye on beautiful beaches and rugged shorelines from Capri to Canada to Costa Rica. They’re organized not by location or climate, but thematically, like dreams, in chapters with names like “Remote” and “Briny.”
Refine Blackwing puts an even finer point on the art of note-taking and sketch-making with the Two-Step Long Point Pencil Sharpener. Two sets of German stainless-steel blades
...and dream
first shave down the wood and then shape the graphite to the perfect point.
Moleskin, known for their conveniently sized notebooks, makes it easy to capture your feelings on the road with the Art Collection Sketchbook & Watercolor Pencil Set. The sturdy, threadbound notebook is filled with heavy, highgrade, ivory paper that can stand up to multiple erasings. The tin of watercolor pencils consists of 12 vivid colors made from natural cedar, with a square profile that fits firmly in your fingers.
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Amazon, Blackwing, Moleskin
Remember
PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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THE ROAD TRAVELED
Best
Go off the beaten path and end up at the top of a skyscraping mountain, surrounded by untouched rainforest. Try the path that’s already marked and find a different kind of adventure-one of 17th-century fortresses, colonial estates, and hundred-year-old rum barrels. Or simply take a breezy stroll down De Strip, and see what happens next.
VISITSTKITTS.COM
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SHORE LEAVE
Sound, Light, and Beauty These are some of the world’s most striking light shows, in some of the world’s most amazing places.
Uluru, Australia
20
Tourism Australia
by Lola Méndez
PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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Available at Diamonds International, Tanzanite International and Luxury of Time DiamondsInternational.com
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SHORE LEAVE
Circuito Mágico del Agua, Lima, Peru
Lima, Peru
A The Anangu were involved in creating the captivating Wintjiri Wiru show to ensure it accurately tells their ancestral story.
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ll around the globe, light brings awe and wonder to crowds through visual storytelling. The modern tradition of son et lumière shows started in France when Paul Robert-Houdin created a “sound and light” show in 1952 at the Château de Chambord. The performance used music and narration while colored lights were projected onto the 16thcentury palace. Digital innovations have since improved the quality of light shows, which have spread in popularity around the globe, especially at iconic historic sites. With 3-D video mapping, moving images are projected onto historic structures and onto fountains that come to life with technicolored displays of light glowing on jets of water. Flocks of drones are used to illuminate the sky without the environmental harm of fireworks. Many of these luminescence experiences are educational and tell the destination's story through images and light. Here are some of the best light shows to experience around the world.
Located in the open-air Parque de la Reserva, the Circuito Mágico del Agua is a series of 13 dazzling illuminated fountains that made the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s largest water-fountain complex in a public park. The water used for the fountains is recycled and there are also installations within the park that cover water-related issues. Some of the fountains are interactive and encourage child-like joy with experiences such as walking through a tunnel of rainbowhued water. The nightly light show takes place on the 130-yard-long Fuente de la Fantasía. The fountain’s water is used as a screen for a choreographed show of water, music, and video mapping, including images and sounds of cultural importance in Peru, such as the country’s strife with Spanish colonizers and the indigenous heroes who tried to protect their land.
Istanbul, Turkey
Serefiye Cistern, Istanbul, Turkey The 1,600-year-old cistern is a grand spectacle to see in its own right, as the ancient structure was a water-storage facility in which most of the water was reserved for bathhouses. The Serefiye Cistern is one of the oldest buildings in the world to undergo 360-degree 3D video mapping and was the first museum in Turkey to be brought to life with an audiovisual show. The mesmerizing light display intersects art and technology by using projection mapping and a light display to bring the cistern’s walls and 32 columns to life with the stories of Turkey’s history projected onto the historic structure.
Lima, Peru
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Left to right: circuitomagicodelagua.com, terex - stock.adobe.com, draghicich - stock.adobe.com, Esther Garcia/Unsplash, hadeev - stock.adobe.com, boule1301 - stock.adobe.com, siraphol - stock.adobe.com
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Font Màgica de Montjuïc, Barcelona, Spain Barcelona's biggest ornamental fountain, Font Màgica de Montjuïc (meaning “the Magic Fountain”), was built for the 1929 International Exhibition. Today, it comes to life with frequent sound-andlight shows. During the show, 2,600 liters of water per second flow through the fountain's three concentric pools. The Magic Fountain prioritizes sustainability by using groundwater and LED lights. The Montjuïc fountain’s 19 water jets erupt into 7 billion shades of white, yellow, red, blue, and green lights from 4,760 light bulbs during the show. There are different themes throughout the year including a 1980s mix, cartoon soundtrack, and classical Spanish music.
During the show, 2,600 liters of water per second flow through the fountain’s concentric pools. Wintjiri Wiru, Uluru, Northern Territory, Australia
Pyramids of Giza, Egypt The Great Pyramid was built over 4,000 years ago. It’s the largest of the Pyramids of Giza and is the last standing Great Wonder of the Ancient World. While it's a must to see the ancient structure in the daylight, returning to the pyramid grounds at night for a spectacular light show on the pyramids is also a bucket-listworthy experience. The Pyramids Sound and Light Show has been operating since 1961 and takes viewers through thousands of years of pharaonic Egyptian history. The Sphinx narrates the stories (available in 10 languages) of the pharaohs who built the Giza pyramids — Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure — as light transforms the ancient monuments.
Uluru is a two-mile-long and 1,142-foot-tall red sandstone rock formation that is sacred to the Anangu, the traditional Aboriginal owners of the massive natural monument. It serves as the foreground for the largest daily drone show in the world. Over 1,100 choreographed drones, lasers, sound, and projections illuminate the night sky in Australia’s outback near the iconic stone mountain. The Anangu were involved in creating the captivating Wintjiri Wiru show to ensure it accurately tells their ancestral story, a tale of mala (wallabyrabbit) beings battling a massive devil-dog spirit. The immersive show is glorious with cutting-edge high-tech visual artistry used to create a rich visual cultural narrative.
Gardens by the Bay, Singapore The futuristic, giant, vertical gardens at Supertree Grove of Gardens by the Bay are the background for a striking light show every night when the area transforms with color and music. The Garden Rhapsody program features light dancing across the garden to the beat of the music with two free 15-minute shows. The Supertrees have solar cells that absorb energy from sunlight throughout the day, which powers the nightly show.
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Barcelona, Spain
Singapore
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WINE & DINE
PLANET PLAYGROUND
International Dining in Istanbul The city where two continents come together has a food scene that’s global in scope.
Midye dolma - stuffed mussels with lemon
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Esin Deniz/ iStock Photo
by Lisa Morrow
PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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Fal or e Medite anean
Bathed in sunshine and lined with crystal-clear waters, the Mediterranean provides the perfect mix of relaxation and cultural discoveries. Aboard PONANT’s yacht-like ships, you will be transported in style and comfort to the Mediterranean’s ancient sites, Greece, Croatia, Bonifacio, or the Amalfi coast.
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For reservations and information call 1 844 656 3786 us.ponant.com
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WINE & DINE
AS THE NAME suggests, the Art Nouveau Ravouna 1906 Coffee and Bar in Beyoğlu was built in the early 20th century. It was designed in 1894 as a shop and home for an Italian family by Constantinos R. Kyriakides, an Istanbul-born Greek (an ethnicity known as Rum). Italians Giuseppe and Alfredo Michelini provided the capital. Work started in 1901, with fellow Rum and architect Alexandre Demitrios Neocosmos creating the burnished wooden cabinets still used in the bar. They were crafted to display antiques sold in the store, which opened when the building was completed in 1906.
If you think Turkish food
is limited to kebabs, think again. Istanbul, the former Ottoman capital, has long been home to peoples from different cultural and ethnic backgrounds. The 21st century has welcomed even more newcomers, so now there’s a wide range of delectable dining establishments to enjoy.
Historic Architecture Like Il Cortile Ristorante Pizzeria near Galata Tower in Beyoğlu, where they serve Italian in a former French elementary school designed by an architect of Swiss origin. When completed in 1842, Italian Dominican priests taught Christian, Jewish, and Muslim students with French as the language of instruction. The building was the work of Gaspare Trajano Fossati, best known for the Church of St. Esprit in Şişli and repairs to the Hagia Sophia. Il CORTILE
Today, crisp pizzas topped with fresh ingredients
Gault and Millau
are only one of the tempt-
awarded the
ing options available. Carpaccio heads the antipasti while handmade pastas such as fettuccine with
restaurant a Toque in 2024
lemon and shrimp vie for
so whether
attention with stand-out
you want to
Ligurian
Genoese-style
porcini mushrooms or casseroled salted sea bass. Tickle your tastebuds
dine inside or
with a cocktail as you drink in the atmosphere, too.
in il cortile,
Abstract sculptural pieces emphasize the architec-
the courtyard,
tural order of tightly packed exposed brick walls, some of which were part of the original 14th-century Genoese fortifications.
26
The prestigious
bookings are essential.
Il CORTILE
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Left to right: Il Cortile, Polina Kuzovkova/Unsplash, Il Cortile, Ravouna 1906, vitals - stock.adobe.com, Silvio - stock.adobe.com, Electric Egg Ltd. - stock.adobe.com, vkilikov - stock.adobe.com, Banyan (x2)
World-Class Pizza
Little is known about the Ravounas other than that they lived in this building. However, their provenance lives on in the menu, with its mix of Italian bistro and Turkish modern. Start with a peppery arugula salad or succulent semizotu
FAMOUS FACES In 1924 Istanbul, gleaming tableware sits atop crisp, white napery, brilliant against a backdrop of dark wooden wainscotting and Art Deco-inspired style. RIGHT FROM THE START, THEIR SOPHISTICATED WHITE RUSSIAN AMBIENCE WAS A HIT, Banyan
Room with a View
Ravouna 1906 Coffee and Bar (purslane leaves). Bite into crunchy avocado bruschetta or the silky heart of a marinated artichoke. Follow on with eggplant parmigiana or a hearty lamb shank complemented by Turkish wines. Alternatively, just take in the view from the rooftop terrace, sipping an imported spirit or ice-cold beer as the sun sets.
G R E TA GA R B O
ATTRACTING FAMOUS GUESTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. GRETA GARBO DINED HERE WHEN SHE WAS
INDULGE IN FRESHLY PREPARED SUSHI
AGAT H A C H R I S T I E Left to right: Il Cortile, Polina Kuzovkova/Unsplash, Il Cortile, Ravouna 1906, vitals - stock.adobe.com, Silvio - stock.adobe.com, Electric Egg Ltd. - stock.adobe.com, vkilikov - stock.adobe.com, Banyan (x2)
LE
PLANET PLAYGROUND
and other Japanese delicacies at 2024 Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient Inari Omakase Kuruçeşme, an interior designer’s dream. Ribbed Japanese umbrellas suspended from the ceiling create an intimate setting, while the plateware palette references Hokusai’s Mount Fuji. The word Inari refers to the Japanese god primarily known as the protector and guardian of rice cultivation and storage. Inari Omakase’s selections are equally fabled. Nigiri, sashimi, and teppanyaki burst with flavor — seared scallops, paper-thin salmon, and the heady aroma of truffles. Or dine on foie gras, duck gyoza, and Korean BBQ lamb ribs. The choice is yours.
IN TOWN, AS DID AGATHA CHRISTIE, AND TURKEY’S FIRST PRESIDENT MUSTAFA KEMAL ATATÜRK WAS A REGULAR.
Expand your horizons at Banyan Restaurant with Bosphorus views and sultry beats from the inhouse DJ on weekends. Their Michelin Guide-worthy menu brings a taste of the East to Ortaköy — east and southeastern Asia and Turkey that is. Antioch-born chef Fikret Demirağ melds the fiery heat of Antakya with the subtle nuance of the Orient, coming up with innovative combinations that cater to all the senses. The AsianTurkish cocktail tasting menu includes pairings such as a spicy gin-and-jalapeño cocktail with Seared Salmon Sashimi in pomegranate teriyaki. Kimchi aioli and wild oregano fuse in Harbiye Chicken Sliders for mains, and Miso Irmik elevates a traditional Turkish almondand-semolina dessert to a sublime experience, served with miso butter and vanilla ice cream.
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M U S TA FA K E M A L ATAT Ü R K
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ROADS & RAILS
Just the Walking Making a pilgrimage with “supported hiking” along Spain’s Camino of Santiago.
Left: Max Maximov - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top: Ken Scicluna / AWL Images, Max Maximov - stock.adobe.com, Kevin Revolinski (x3)
by Kevin Revolinski
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PLANET PLAYGROUND
Nowadays, travelers come for an assortment of reasons, spiritual and otherwise. be overwhelming. Humping everything on your back all day is also not fun. What if you just had to show up with walking shoes? You’re in luck.
Left: Max Maximov - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top: Ken Scicluna / AWL Images, Max Maximov - stock.adobe.com, Kevin Revolinski (x3)
I
first saw the finish line of the Camino while on a road trip in Spain that took me through Santiago de Compostela. In the morning, the first pilgrim arrived, shuffling into the plaza of St. James’ Cathedral, dropping his backpack, sinking to his knees on the cobblestones, shaking with something between tears and joyous laughter. I’ll have what he’s having, I thought.
a rest and some water, I continued, zigzagging down the other side over cobble and packed dirt. At the bottom in the next town was a café for a snack, a beer, and a ride — my guide stood smiling next to the van like family cheering me on at the end of a marathon. My hotel? All taken care of. Dinner? Reservations made for me. My backpack? Already waiting in my room. Not a bad way to take on the Camino.
Four years later, I stood at the top of Spain’s Alto del Perdón — the rather unforgiving Hill of Forgiveness — with steady winds whirling turbines behind me and in front of me, sweeping scenes of azure skies and verdant fields that almost looked computer-generated in their perfection. After
Since the 9th century, the Camino of Santiago (“The Way of St. James”) has drawn pilgrims from all directions — originally to visit the remains of St. James the Apostle, which now rest in his namesake 13thcentury cathedral in the city of Santiago de Compostela.
Castanets
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Nowadays, travelers come for an assortment of reasons, spiritual and otherwise. Some walk 500 miles or more, a journey that can take weeks or even months depending on the route and starting point. Setting up day-to-day accommodations or even winging it can
In the late 90s, Arizona-born Alex Chang had just quit a job in Spain when he decided to walk the Camino as a departing gift to himself. But the Camino got its hooks in him and he never left. He became a guide, and figuring that most travelers don’t have a couple free months for a through-hike, he founded Fresco Tours, offering a service of supported hiking. Multiple caminos come to Santiago from all directions, but I came for the Camino Frances, the French Way, as
roughly 60 percent of all pilgrims do. “This one has got the most history,” Chang says of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed path. “Unlike the Appalachian Trail, it is not remote. There’s more infrastructure, coffee shops, bars where you stop and get a [Camino passport] stamp.” Fresco also offers itineraries across northern Spain, Portugal, and even the Canary Islands, as well as just the 70-mile home stretch into Santiago, breaking the longer Camino routes into “chapters.” The Spanish Horizons highlights tour puts you in a private bus from the Pyrenees all the way to trail’s end at Cape Finisterre (“End of the World”) on the Atlantic coast, walking
TRADITIONAL PILGRIMAGE
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ROADS & RAILS
only short scenic sections to get a feel of the whole Camino. I joined five others on Chapter 1 of the Camino Frances. From Pamplona, guides drove us into the Pyrenees to start with three miles through the forest with scenic overlooks and a firstnight stay in a 1725 clergy dormitoryturned-hotel. Over the course of 10 days, I walked 100 miles on charming dirt paths through vineyards and along
PLANET PLAYGROUND
rivers, cow paths through the woods, or even the medieval streets of Pamplona. I drank free wine from a trailside spout, visited centuries-old churches, and ended in Rioja country with a winery tour.
TYPICAL DAY A full day’s hike ranges from 8 to 14 miles with accommodations in private rooms, not hostels. Guides brief you each night with tomorrow’s maps, showing elevation
changes, check points, the picnic spot for gourmet lunch, and the pickup point. Restaurants or wineries are already reserved for dinner. Your luggage is their problem; all you need is a daypack with sunscreen, water, and anything else you want to carry. The van drops you off, picks you up at the end, and the next day, returns you to where you left off. A group member with a sore hip took a van-bypass of a particularly steep
pass. The transfers allow you to stay in the same hotel for multiple days rather than repacking daily. Everyone hikes at their own speed. I hiked fast and solo much of the time, stopping for photos and wildlife or, once, following a 300-meter spur trail off to a special church (my guide came looking for me, concerned I’d made a wrong turn and was on my way to Paris or something.) Conversations set the pace, and each
day I shared some steps with a stranger I overtook or a group member with a story. Ten days passed like a moment while the memories seemed like a month. I returned home with an ache to be back out on the trail again, away from the infinite distractions of modern life. I still hadn’t had my finishline moment. Alex sent me a New Year’s email: “Hope to see you back on the Camino – you’ve got unfinished business!”
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Pilgrim wine fountain, Irache
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Left clockwise: roberaten - stock.adobe.com, Kevin Revolinski, Only Fabrizio - stock.adobe.com
Over the course of 10 days, I walked 100 miles on charming dirt paths through vineyards and along rivers, cow paths through the woods, or even the medieval streets of Pamplona.
PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL
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Cunard
D AY @ SEA
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Welcoming
Her Majesty by Chris Frame
We take you aboard Queen Anne, the latest majestic vessel to join the fleet of queens.
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W
hen you first catch a glimpse of Queen Anne, her Cunard livery immediately grabs your attention — and sets expectations. But the introduction of the 114,188-grt Pinnacle-class ship has seen many aspects of the Cunard experience reimagined. Porthole contributor Chris Frame traveled aboard Queen Anne as a guest lecturer during her maiden voyage, May 3-10, 2024. Though not a fare-paying passenger, Chris has cruised extensively on every Cunard Queen since QE2, and is well placed to notice different, and familiar, experiences aboard the new ship.
STEP ABOARD The style of the ship’s interior is contemporary, with subtle nods to Cunarders of the past. Embarking travelers first notice this in Queen Anne’s three-deck-high Grand Lobby.
The circular aspect of the lobby is present in many of the spaces on board and reminded me of the interior design of QE2. Open wells and curved staircases are used throughout the vessel, providing connection between the various passenger decks.
Cunard (x3)
A curved staircase descends from Deck 3 to Deck 1 and has a metallic finish with glass balustrades. The staircase is backed by an interpretation of the Italian-built-ship’s heritage, with a lenticular artwork depicting scenes of passengers at sea, a stylized ocean liner, and Venetian canals.
BE ENTERTAINED Queen Anne’s Royal Court Theatre is a familiar Cunard venue. This 825-seat theater is home to the ship’s Insights lecture program, which I participated in. In the evenings, it hosts production shows and variety acts. New on the agenda is the ship’s adaptation of Brief Encounter. The set design is superb, with the use of lighting and projection adding a sense of wonder to the visual display. I really enjoyed Noir, which is performed in the newly established Bright Lights Society. Noir performers are “in character” from the very moment you enter the venue, and there is an element of audience participation. But attendees of a shy nature need not worry, as the cast discreetly check who is (and isn’t) willing to jump up on stage before the show begins.
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The circular aspect of the lobby is present in many of the spaces on board and reminded me of the interior design of QE2 . The Mareel Spa was another of my favorites. The circular hydro-pool is the main attraction, and while it doesn’t eclipse the outstanding hydro-pool (of Canyon Ranch origins) on QM2, the pool is a step above the facility on board Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria. The spa is complemented by a gymnasium complete with weight room, cardio zone, and spinning bikes, while the Wellness Studio on Deck 11 (which is a new venue) is home to morning yoga, stretch classes, and other wellness activities throughout the voyage.
The Wellness Café, located one deck below, offers healthy meals, with a largely plant-based menu. Nearby seating overlooks the Pavilion, which is covered with a curved retractable roof. The Pavilion, in addition to featuring a pool, three whirlpools, a takeaway grill, Gelateria, and a bar, is also a vibrant and welcoming entertainment venue. The indooroutdoor aspect of this space made it very popular, and it was used to host cocktail parties including the Cunard World Club party.
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B R I TA N N I A C L U B
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DINING REVITALIZED
QUEENS GRILL
As with all Cunard Queens, cabin choice will dictate which main dining venue to attend. Queens Grill and Princess Grill are the top restaurants on board. Both restaurants offer single-seating dining and are accessed through the private Grills Lounge. Queen Anne features a sizable Britannia Club Restaurant, which hugs the Deck 2 level of the Grand Lobby. But the largest restaurant on board is the spectacular Britannia Restaurant. Occupying the aft of Deck 2 and Deck 3, there are three seating options — early, late (with a designated table and the same table companions), or open dining (where you eat at a time of your choice). The restaurant is contemporary in design, yet offers some nods to Cunard’s past, with a small spiral staircase that would feel at home on board QE2, and etched acrylic panels representing ancient mythology, said to be inspired by artworks on board RMS Queen Mary (1936).
PRINCESSS GRILL
Queen Anne introduces several new dining concepts for Cunard. Tramonto and Aranya offer Mediterranean and Indian menus respectively. Aji Wa on Deck 10 has a Japanese-inspired menu, while Sir Samuel’s Steakhouse replaces Cunard’s traditional Verandah venue, and is open for lunch and dinner … with my favorite menu option here the sherry trifle, YUM!
Queens Grill and Princess Grill are the top restaurants on board.
SHIP SHAPE
COMMODORE CLUB
There are many other familiar spaces aboard Queen Anne, from the vibrant Chart Room Bar and expanded Golden Lion pub to the forward-facing Commodore Club high atop the ship.
Cunard (x4)
Queen Anne’s Queens Room ballroom is perhaps the most controversial space on board. Some love it, some hate it for its modern design. A stark contrast to all the Queens Rooms that came before it, the room features a curved dance floor and large overhead well, providing seating on both Deck 2 and Deck 3. Boutiques surround the upper level of the Queens Room. While Queen Anne does feature the traditional Cunard library, there is no book shop on board, to the dismay of Cunard traditionalists.
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PRINCESS SUITE
GRAND SUITE
G R A N D S U I T E B AT H
PRINCESS SUITE
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PENTHOUSE
Cunard approaches its 185th anniversary next year.
ACCOMMODATION Queen Anne introduces improvements in accommodation, with bathrooms across Britannia and Club Balcony grades the most impressive enhancement. They feature tiled walls, adjustable shower heads, and stylized vanity and shower doors; there are no nasty shower curtains here! All cabins feature high-quality interior fit-outs with textured wall dressings, stylized mirrors, artwork in each room, and Art Deco-inspired side lamps. The ship also introduces an interactive television system. Cabins are serviced twice daily, and my cabin attendant Simba was excellent. Since entering service, Queen Anne’s Britannia and Club Balcony rooms have received some criticism for a perceived lack of clothes-storage space. This was not an issue for my 7-day cruise, though the lack of drawer storage may prove challenging for longer voyages.
WHAT’S NEXT
Cunard (x5), Chris Frame
As Cunard approaches its 185th anniversary next year, Queen Anne helps the line cement its place in the cruise market. The ship boldly provides a refreshed take on the experience, which although different is by no means unfamiliar.
G AS LI M A XB A Y P&ACV HI LRLI ISO N
And while some regular travelers may choose to return to one of the other Queens, Queen Anne is sure to attract a new generation of Cunard traveler as she sails the world’s oceans for decades to come. I for one am very much looking forward to returning!
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A new travel series hosted by Bill Panoff, you can watch wherever you are! Download an app for your favorite device, or check your smart-TV app list, and enjoy the first season of the Porthole Cruise and Travel Show wherever you are.
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Hosted by Bill Panoff
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A Multi-Cultural Carnival by Jason Leppert
Carnival Cruise Line
Carnival Firenze sails in Mexico … via America, China, and Italy?
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(To the tune of Dean Martin’s famed Italian song “That’s Amore”): atch the stars in the sky as you stroll the Lanai — on Firenze. You can drink lots of wine and get lost on Deck Nine — on Firenze. There is so much to eat; try Nonna’s bowls of meat — on Firenze. So, now come take a trip on this beautiful ship — on Firenze!
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Those were just some of the playfully parodied lyrics sung by the Carnival Firenze cruise director — as first introduced by Carnival Cruise Line brand ambassador John Heald — when I sailed on the new ship’s maiden voyage. And they perfectly set the international scene as the red, white, and blue met the red, white, and green, as it were. Of course, you may be wondering just how a Carnival ship, still sporting a corporate-cousin Costa Cruises funnel, got to this point — because it’s quite an interesting story, one where American, Chinese, Italian, and Mexican cultures all happen to meet.
An Italian Origin Prior to the pandemic, Costa had the fresh, 2019-built Costa Venezia and 2020-built Costa Firenze ready to go. They were meant to bring Italian-style cruising to the Chinese market, but both were redeployed to the Mediterranean. Following the global crisis and the scrapping of several older Carnival ships, it was deemed prudent to add capacity back to the “Fun Ship” brand with newer, already-available hardware, so these ships later became the New York-based Carnival Venezia and now Los Angeles-based Carnival Firenze.
Clockwise from top left: Carnival Cruise Line (x2), Jason Leppert, Carnival Cruise Line, warmworld- stock.adobe.com
Firenze Atrium
Firenze homeport, Long Beach
Jonathan Bennett, Firenze godfather
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Venezia first sailed under its new livery in 2023, and the only lightly used Firenze was rechristened in 2024 to navigate the Mexican Riviera from its year-round California homeport. As a Vistaclass vessel, she most closely resembles her sister ship Carnival Panorama, also sailing from the port of Long Beach, but she sports many differences as well.
Ship With a Difference Firenze is missing Carnival’s signature “whale tail” funnel, maintaining its original Costa “C” stack, but her hull design displays the line’s usual blue flourish, this time with a matching yellow stripe. The Carnival logo further adorns the aft sides while “Fun Italian Style” is inscribed to follow each. As curb appeal — or rather pier appeal — goes, it’s a bit of a branding hodgepodge, but in the end, it works. In fact, private accommodations and several public spaces are actually elevated by Carnival standards. Balcony staterooms, for instance, share a common footprint with other Vista-class ships,
Permanently mounted on board is a replica of David, transferred over from Carnival Pride, in the Michelangelo Restaurant. 46
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Left: Carnival Cruise Line, Jason Leppert, Carnival Cruise Line
Lido deck
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Right: Carnival Cruise Line
but on Firenze, dark, natural wood paneling is classier, framing Italian photography at headboards. And pedestal lavs and cultured marble counters and shelving give bathrooms a glow-up. Replacing the Havana ship-within-a-ship concept found on other vessels in the series are Terrazza (“terrace” in Italian) staterooms and suites, where guests get exclusive access to the Terrazza Moda sun deck overlooking the stern with lots of loungers, a pair of inviting whirlpools, and dedicated bar. 48
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Firenze is named after Florence, and its Piazza Del Duomo atrium architecturally channels the Italian city with a golden lion statue perched on a central pillar. If anything, the flashier aesthetic is a partial return to Il Viaggio the style of Carnival’s former interior designer Joe Farcus and his ostentatious fixtures. Also permanently mounted on board is a replica of David, transferred over from Carnival Pride, in the Michelangelo Restaurant, as well as a colorful jester greeting patrons of The Punchliner Comedy Club at Limelight Lounge. All of this is to say that loyal fans of Carnival will still find a majority of their brand favorites, but with an Italian twist, as they visit popular Mexican ports of call like Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlán, and Puerto Vallarta.
Left: Carnival Cruise Line (x2) Right: Jason Leppert, Carnival Cruise Line, nazar12 - stock.adobe.com
Il Viaggio substitutes as an even better specialty Italian restaurant.
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International Flavor Even a BlueIguana Cantina is on hand, albeit called Tomodoro. It’s described as a fusion of Mexican and Italian cuisine, but really it’s not — still serving custom burritos and tacos with the likes of a Sicilian Chicken Wrap and Italian Meatball Hero merely tacked on. A more genuine fusion can be found at the poolside Guy’s Burger Joint reprised on the opposite side. Here you can continue to get a Plain Jane or a Straight Up, or uniquely, a Pepperoni Pizza Burger or a surprisingly delicious Super Melty Mootz with mozzarella, tomato, balsamic, and fried basil atop a juicy patty. Plus, Carnival’s deli fare is expanded at Il Mercato by adding Italian sausage and meatballs to its long list of available ingredients. There’s also the BlueIguana Tequila Bar and RedFrog Rum Bar alternative, Rococo Bar, and relocated JavaBlue Cafe. They sell the same beverages as before plus an appropriate “Italian Flag” frozen cocktail layering colors of icy red, white, and green, as well as other themed drinks and even gelato.
Fun Ship Worldwide The trio of included eateries and duo of added-cost watering holes comprise Firenze’s Lido Pool area, which is rendered as an Italian-style courtyard drawn closer to the water feature with more overhead cover, as initially intended for shade-seeking Chinese passengers. (The aft Versilia Pool also showcases extra shade structures.)
It’s this courtyard that also stages a “Festa Italiana” once per cruise, hosting a pottery-balancing terracotta trek challenge, gelato-eating contest, photo ops with traditionally Italian-dressed staff, further light-bite eating, and a final dance party to the tune of Italian-American pop songs. Elsewhere, La Strada Grill located at the aforementioned Lanai offers additional ItalianAmerican comfort food, while two main dining rooms offer more Italian dishes overseen by an Italian executive chef. While there is no Cucina Del Capitano on Firenze (but the complimentary Pizzeria del Capitano remains), Il Viaggio substitutes as an even better specialty Italian restaurant. Consider its superior sausage-and-pesto-stuffed Panzarotti, Jumbo Shrimp Scampi, and Pollo Parmigiana Pizza with its distinct chicken-meat crust. Just outside is also the premium Frizzante Bar pouring several spritzes and espresso martinis, made from Lavazza premium Italian coffee no less. And although renamed from the Alchemy Bar, Amari Bar serves the same purpose with bespoke beverages and entertaining drink-making demonstrations.
Left: Carnival Cruise Line (x2) Right: Jason Leppert, Carnival Cruise Line, nazar12 - stock.adobe.com
Now all together, as the lyrical hilarity concludes… Come take a trip on this beautiful ship — on Firenze. If you want to come on, go to carnival.com — on Firenze!
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Campbell Lindsay
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ALL HANDS TO THE PAST Sailing a 1924 wooden trawler around the islands of the West Coast of Scotland can feel like a dream. by Cat Thomson
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HAVE YOU EVER WONDERED if time travel is possible? After an 8-day voyage aboard a centuryold wooden trawler, I think it just might be. Just standing and looking up at the billowing red sails, I feel connected to the past sailors, in a way I hadn’t imagined. I had embarked at Dunstaffnage Marina near Oban to join eight strangers to sail around the West Coast of Scotland aboard a boat built in 1924. Provident is one of only six Brixham trawlers on the U.K. Register of National Historic Fleet and was one of the last fishing boats built to be powered by sail. After her fishing career ended, she was bought by an American, Captain R H Lagarde, and converted into a yacht. She then became a training vessel for Island Sailing Club and then Trinity Sailing Foundation back in the U.K., showing novice sailors the ropes. Provident Sailing now runs voyages of discovery, mainly off the West Coast of Scotland, taking small groups of visitors on yacht-based expeditions — in our case, visiting the Gulf of Corryvreckan whirlpool, and the Islands of Mull, Jura, Gigha, Islay, Lismore, and the Garvellachs, before ending the voyage in Fort William.
A SAILOR’S LIFE The onboard berths have been cleverly converted out of the with a galley. There is a mixture of nationalities and sailing abilities among the other guests; some of them have holidayed aboard historic ships before and others like me are complete novices. The canvas sails are raised by hauling ropes rhythmically, called “sweating” and gathering slack, called “tailing.” It is exhilarating to scud across the waves, hair flying, powered by wind. You can join in as much or as little as you want or you can sit back and watch, but once you pluck up the courage to get involved, you’ll be addicted. We are in the safe hands of owners Steve Jones and his wife Morag Slesser, aided by other crew members. Gradually, by repetition, sailing starts to make sense. All this activity works up an appetite, so fortunately, Morag rustles up delicious feasts from the tiny galley kitchen. The bunks are comfortable but snug, and although it feels a bit strange on the first night to be bunking up with someone you have just met, that quickly fades as you’re
Left clockwise: Campbell Lindsay, Provident Sailing, Cat Thomson, Campbell Lindsay Right: Cat Thomson
former fish hold, which also features an open-plan dining saloon
gently rocked to sleep by the waves lapping on the hull. Each day feels like the start of an adventure. One of our number, Samatha Barrett from Virginia came to Scotland to visit the land of her forefathers. What better way to visit Jura and learn how to sail the way it would have been done in the past aboard a wooden boat? Her family tree is filled with familiar surnames; Buie, Burns, Cunningham, and McLellan. She explains, “I was raised by my family with a strong appreciation for our Scottish heritage. My aunt and I have been researching them since I was 12.” They discovered the Buies originated from Jura and settled in eastern North Carolina in the early 1700s. She explains, “There is even a place in North Carolina called Buies Creek, and south of that are Cumberland, Robeson, and Scotland Counties where the majority of my ancestors lived. My fifth great-grandmother was a Buie who was born in 1807 in Robeson County, North Carolina. At some point, her family moved to South Carolina, where she married another Scot that came from either Islay or Jura.”
The canvas sails are raised by hauling ropes rhythmically, called “sweating” and gathering slack, called “tailing.” It is exhilarating to scud across the waves, hair flying, powered by wind.
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Deck hand Arthur
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Provident Sailing
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Each day feels like the start of an adventure. 55
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The onboard berths have been cleverly converted out of the former fish hold, which also features an open-plan dining saloon with a galley. 56
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WALKING THE SHORE Beneath the watchful gaze of the Paps of Jura, we waved goodbye as Provident weighed anchor and sailed away. We had not been abandoned, instead dropped ashore in Lowlandman’s Bay on Jura to rejoin the boat having walked along bramble-lined lanes to the village of Craighouse.
Arriving in Ardbeg
On the way, we happened upon an idyllic bay called Corran Sands — unbelievably, the location for departing Scots emigrants leaving for a new life in the States and a spine-tingling coincidence for Samantha.
Californian from Palo Alto who discovered Gigha 20 years ago.
Another day, we found ourselves under blue skies at a pristine bay on
He explained, “I never had the intention to live abroad. I’m just
Gigha. Three of us set off to visit Wee Isle Dairy to buy some ice cream.
one of those characters who always wanted to see what’s beyond
The company founder, Don Dennis, scooped us up in his van. He is a
the horizon.” He is enthusiastic about the island, saying, “It is one of the hidden jewels of the Hebrides because very few people know of its existence.” He met his wife Emma in the only village shop, and she made quite an impression on him. “I remember that first instant of laying eyes on her, it’s like a photo in my mind.” The couple now live and work on Emma’s family farm where she oversees her herd of cows and milking operation, while Don creates 20 ice cream flavors and dessert sauces. Don’s favorite flavor is honeycomb and salted caramel, which he describes as being,” like Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers dancing on your tongue.” There are of course major challenges in living and running a business on a small island, but on the flipside, there is a strong sense of community. “Living on Gigha is like being in a small boat with a bunch of other people, but it feels more like home to me than any other place in the world,” he says. Port Ellen on Islay was another place where we anchored. It is an island renowned for whisky-making with nine distilleries: Ardbeg, Ardnahoe, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig. But now as
Provident owner, Steve Jones
seasoned sailors, we headed to visit the only rum maker on the island first. The Islay Spirits Company is based in The Old Lemonade Factory where they make small batches of clear, spiced, and aged rums. Rum rations sorted, it was back to the whisky. No visit to Islay would be complete without a distillery tour, so we sailed to Ardbeg, where we learned the distillery was founded in 1851. At one time,
Left: Provident Sailing Right top to bottom: Cat Thomson (x2), Campbell Lindsay, Provident Sailing (x2)
they had a community of around 200 people with a school, shop, post office, football team, and Gaelic choir. It hasn’t always been plain sailing; over the years, whisky-making has declined, and whisky production has even ceased on more than one occasion. So, we toasted a bright future with a peaty dram of 10-year-old single malt, named after the tempestuous Corryvreckan whirlpool which we had safely navigated the day before. There were several times during the trip that it felt like I was living in a dream, including the day we visited Eileach an Naoimh Island. Accessible only by boat, it was once the site of a monastery in the Middle Ages. Founded by St. Brendan of Clontarf, it’s the final resting place of St. Columba’s mother, Eithne. Her peaceful grave is marked by a simple cross and a stone slab overlooking the sea. As the afternoon light dimmed, the sun sinking below the horizon, it was easy to imagine a final voyage and slumbering for the rest of eternity here.
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GOOD VIBES
Around the World Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.
Left: Chem Chem Safaris This page clockwise from top: Chem Chem Safaris, The Finch Bay Hotel, Ivan Kmit - stock.adobe.com
by Alex Darlington
Chem Chem Safari camp
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BEST LIFE
SAFARIS RESTORE WILDERNESS
TOURING THE NORTH
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For 21 years, Thund consulting firm has been teaching the world about the delicate balance of Iceland’s plant and animal life. Using meticulous research, the scientists at Thund offer educational tours that focus on Icelandic flora and fauna. They cater not only to individuals, but also to large corporations, teaching them to integrate eco-friendly strategies into their work. “In every leaf, rock, and drop of water, there’s a story about our world,” says Soffia Arnporsdottir, Thund’s owner and manager. “At Thund, we are dedicated to uncovering these stories through a blend of science and exploration…. Our tours are about seeing, understanding and preserving nature.”
Vestrahorn Mountain, Iceland
Private guide and vehicle
Experts once declared Tanzania’s Kwakuchinja wildlife migration route “abandoned.” Due to illegal logging, poaching, and over-grazing, the once-thriving area between the Tarangire and Lake Manyara National Parks had become nearly devoid of fauna and flora. That changed in 2008, when visionary conservationists Fabia Bausch and Nicolas Negre, founders of Chem Chem Safaris, set about restoring the area. Working with Tanzanian government officials and local communities, they’ve made the region a “model” wildlife corridor. Now Chem Chem owns three safari camps where guests can enjoy lush vegetation, elephant encounters, wellness walks, and even side-by-side runs with Maasai warriors.
DOUBLE THE WILDERNESS Laid-back Caribbean getaways and chic European excursions are wonderful. But lately, some science-minded travelers are opting for less conventional experiences that provide up-close looks at unique forms of life. One such adventure is The Darwin & Orellana Discovery Tour. The 11-day adventure allows guests to visit Ecuador’s iconic Galapagos Islands, where Charles Darwin researched his classic Origin of Species. There are animals on those islands that exist nowhere else. But also included is a trip to the aweinspiring Amazon rainforest, one of the planet’s last great wilderness areas, packed with unusual plants and animals. The tour features premium accommodations at Scalesia Lodge and The Finch Bay Hotel.
YEAR-ROUND OCEAN EDUCATION Students and conservation groups are learning how to help protect our marine ecosystems like never before, thanks to BlueAct Marine Society’s partnership with British Columbia’s TidePools Aquarium. The aquarium is a popular attraction, holding more than 70 species, including sea lilies, sailfin, and rockfish. But it’s also the only facility of its kind in British Columbia to provide a year-round, hands-on, ocean-related curriculum in an immersive aquarium setting. The programs have helped educate more than 2,000 students. “We are extremely proud of the education programs we’ve developed over the past seven years,” said BlueAct Executive Director, Nancy Cottingham Powell.
The Finch Bay Hotel
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BEST LIFE
A Luxury Lab for Green Living Left: Travis - stock.adobe.com Right: Hotel Calanoa (x2)
Colombia’s Calanoa Amazonas points the way to a better (and more beautiful) experience of the world. by Kate Wickers
Amazonian giant water lily
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BEST LIFE which he suspends from trees to soak up the environment and are formed primarily by tree molds washed down by the rain. The result is patterns in oranges, pinks, and greens that take on the surprising shapes of shells, leaves, and bark.
T
Left: Travis - stock.adobe.com Right: Hotel Calanoa (x2)
hey say that it is the arrival that should be savored, when all the travel is behind you and adventure lies ahead. I’ve never enjoyed this sweet moment more keenly than arriving at Calanoa Amazonas in Colombia. I step off the high-speed boat that has whisked me 60 miles along the Rio Amazon from Leticia, the finalfrontier capital of the Amazonas province, most spectacular at sunset when thousands of small pericos (parrots) flock to roost in Parque Santander.
journey. Marlene, an environmental educator, and Diego, an artist and designer, both have a life-long passion for ecology. They opened their boutique jungle eco-lodge in a 50-hectare reserve in the Amacayacu National Park with the aim of contributing to the conservation of both nature and culture
through sustainable and respectful tourism. Today, this unique retreat extends to seven cabins, designed, as Diego describes them, “as pieces of art.” Using nothing but local materials, the duo have relied much on the skills of the indigenous Tikuna people in realizing their dream. Natural artwork comprises Diego’s canvases,
No two lodgings are the same and unusual architectural detail is key: There’s one with a secret, internal garden; one with a boat-like structure; another suspended in a tree; while my two-story palmroofed cabin has a hammock-strung deck with views to the river. The cabins are built on stilts to improve air circulation (forget air-conditioning or the hope of a ceiling fan), and hot water
isn’t reliable (although who needs it when it’s 90 degrees F?). But there’s no shortage of beauty and style with handmade wooden furniture, and beds are romantically and practically draped in mosquito nets. When Conde Nast Traveler added Calanoa to their Gold List, it was in recognition of the beauty of the location and design,
Being so completely away from it all adds a timewarping dimension.
I’ve arrived at a laboratory of sorts, where owners Marlene and Diego Samper are experimenting with age-old methods and new ways to live sustainably within the rainforest, and paying guests are welcome to be part of their
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rather than its mod-cons … so do not arrive expecting a power shower. Keeping things simply furnished was purposeful: so that your senses away aren’t distracted from the jungle surroundings. Meals are of an excellent standard, though choice is limited, and
are eaten communally with other guests, which brings the chance to chat over jungle experiences. I listen in awe as my neighbor describes the sighting of an armadillo by moonlight, while I recount the joy of an encounter with an aotus — an owl-faced monkey, the smallest
There’s no shortage of beauty and style with handmade wooden furniture, and beds are romantically and practically draped in mosquito nets. 62
and shyest of all Amazonian primates. Being so completely away from it all adds a time-warping dimension. Minutes feel like hours, and hours like days. In between excursions, I lose myself to watching the river flow. I’m lulled to afternoon naps by the rhythmic call of the
busy weaverbird that sounds like a stone dropping into a pond, and by night, the constant croak from a toad that the Tikuna call the “chicken frog.” Hugged as the lodge is by thick vegetation, the number one rule is that guests should never stray alone beyond Calanoa’s exotic, flower-filled, garden. Beyond limits is a world of tangled palms, strangler vines, and immense fig and cashew trees; the territory of scorpion spiders, Brazilian white-knee tarantulas, lethal banana spiders, and bullet ants that can paralyze with one sting. I meet my first Ranitomeya amazonica (poison dart frog) — exquisitely marked with black-and-whitespotted legs, and black-and-orangestriped head — on
an “interpretation of the forest walk” with Jorge, a Tikuna guide. Another day, we travel by motorized canoe to Mocagua Island, which lies just over the border in Peru. The landscape here is dominated by Socratea exorrhiza, trees with leggy, stilt-like roots that relocate to reach sunlight by “walking” up to one or two inches a day, and where the giant lotus Victoria amazonica blooms on ponds amid a blur of sulfur-yellow butterflies. I relish every moment of my off-grid, off-comms adventure — even taking the plunge at a local swimming hole that teems with piranha (learning that Hollywood is to blame for demonizing these razor-toothed fish) and taking a night walk with Jorge just as the creepiest of crawlies come out to hunt by the light of phosphorescent mushrooms. After four days immersed in nature, it’s a wrench to return to Leticia and the Wi-Fi and hot showers that I have happily lived without. As I leave, the Amazon has one last gift for me: a pod of rosy-hued pink river dolphins that surf on the waves created by our boat and serve as a reminder that my adventure isn’t quite over yet.
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Hotel Calanoa (x2)
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SET-JETTING
BEST LIFE
Q : What famous television show was filmed on this tree-lined Canadian shore?
Brad Ralph/Unsplash
(answer on next page)
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SET-JETTING
BEST LIFE
(from previous page)
Q : What famous television show was filmed on this tree-lined Canadian shore?
Columbia, to double for the 16th-century Japanese fishing village where English sailor John Blackthorne comes ashore and changes the course of history with Toda Mariko (Anna Sawai).
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TCD/Prod.DB / Alamy Stock Photo
Summer's hit miniseries Shogun used A: the coastal woods of Ucluelet, British
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LELAND & SEA
BEST LIFE
Cradled in the Lap of Luxury Steve travels the world in style. This issue, he weighs three lines’ approaches to luxury cruising.
CandyRetriever - stock.adobe.com
by Steve Leland
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LELAND & SEA
MEGA-LUXE ABOARD MSC I sense the skeptical look on your faces. How on earth can a 6,000-passenger megaship meet upscale luxury criteria? Granted, I gravitate toward smaller, more intimate ships, but after hearing about MSC Cruises’ Yacht Club accommodations on MSC World Europa, I had to try it myself. Ships like this provide benefits that smaller vessels cannot: spacious public areas, elaborate production shows, a selection of specialty dining venues, and a vibrant nightlife. The trade-off is that you share your vessel of dreams with a multitude of others. This conundrum is resolved with MSC’s Yacht Club category. The pulsing heartbeat of the ship is just steps away when you want it, while you bask in a secluded buffer zone of luxury. Essentially, the ship-within-aship concept is a game changer for cruisers who want the best of both worlds.
Guests can bask in the sun on their secluded sundeck, complete with exclusive pool and hot tub while overlooking the passing seascape.
Sundeck & Pool
An all-day concierge service will assist with any services requested, and your butler will personally escort you to entertainment venues and specialty restaurants on board. Savor sushi at Kaito Teppanyaki & Sushi Bar, prime steaks at the Butchers’ Cut, Mexican cuisine at Hola! Tacos, and fresh fish served daily at the Pescaderia. With dedicated seating in the magnificent World Theater and the amphitheater-styled Panorama Lounge, there’s never a concern about reservations. Innumerable Yacht Club amenities come standard: complimentary access to the Aurea Thermal Spa, priority disembarkation and embarkation in ports (assisted by your butler), daily newspapers, and complimentary wine, beer, cocktails, and minibar in your room.
TWO CRUISES IN ONE It all starts on arrival. In the Yacht Club’s exclusive check-in lounge on the pier, a tuxedoed assistant welcomes you on board. Entering the secluded bastion of luxury with a tap from your wristband on the slidingglass door, your white-gloved personal butler escorts you to your deluxe balcony suite.
World Galleria
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Four venues spanning the entire width of the ship are exclusive to Yacht Club guests. An opulent Swarovski-crystal stairway in the center of the elegantly furnished lounge leads to the club's private restaurant. One deck above is the Yacht Club Grill, serving breakfast, lunch, and snacks. Guests can bask in the sun on their secluded sundeck, complete with exclusive pool and hot tub while overlooking the passing seascape.
Once you decide to venture out, you’ll find no shortage of places to go, things to see, and activities to participate in. Two different shows are performed each night in the theaters. Street performers entertain in the World Galleria, a multi-deck hive of activity with shops, boutiques, cafes, bars, and a massive casino. You can stay fit with visits to the oversized gym or by participating in a soccer or basketball game in the Sportsplex. Stoke your inner youth with roller skating or bumper cars. Thrill seekers will enjoy sliding down the undulating water slides or the towering spiral slide in the very heart of the open-air World Promenade. If there is a downside to the MSC Yacht Club experience, it’s likely that once you do it, you’ll never cruise without it! World Europa sails in the Mediterranean, but if you prefer staying closer to home, MSC will be introducing Caribbean itineraries aboard the new World America in April 2025.
Left: MSC (x3) Right, top to bottom: PaulienD_22 - stock.adobe.com, Seabourn (x4)
Owner's Suite
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BEST LIFE
THE SEABOURN IDENTITY
Elegant and refined yet casual
Champagne and caviar in hand, wrapped in the comfort of the all-suite Seabourn Venture, we departed chilly springtime London with a 2-hour scenic cruise on the Thames before entering the English Channel. The first day at sea provided a convenient opportunity to explore the ship. For a vessel of this size, there’s no shortage of places to relax while sailing the less-traveled waterways surrounding the United Kingdom. The Constellation Lounge serves complimentary aperitifs or after-dinner cocktails as you listen to live music or nibble on tapas. Overlooking the stern, The Club offers sushi connoisseurs the freshest bounty of the sea. Cozy up to a faux fireplace in the Expedition Lounge, the perfect venue for meeting fellow guests. Early risers will appreciate a piping hot espresso or cappuccino in Seabourn Square. The spa caters to guests who appreciate personal rejuvenation and the gym and sauna provide wellbeing and relaxation. World-class, open-seating dining is required for any luxury cruise, and Seabourn ticks the box with full-service
and relaxed, Seabourn Venture sets itself apart from other expedition Fingal's Cave
cruise vessels.
breakfast, lunch, and dinner in The Restaurant and nightly themed dinners in the Colonnade. Select from five or more appetizers and six main courses from the constantly changing Inspirations menu or six classic entrees that are available every night. Complimentary, perfectly paired wine selections are served nightly and capped off by delectable desserts.
ULTRA-LUXE ADVENTURE It’s rare to find an upscale expedition experience blended with a down-toearth adventurous spirit, yet Seabourn has found a way. Rather than a traditional entertainment staff, an expedition leader and 21
Left: MSC (x3) Right, top to bottom: PaulienD_22 - stock.adobe.com, Seabourn (x4)
The history of Ireland and Scotland are brought to life with visits to cities like Dublin and Edinburgh, but expedition cruises like these shine the spotlight on destinations beyond the borders of well traveled itineraries.
Stornaway
naturalists curate a program of tours and daily enrichment conversations highlighting the boundless artistry of Mother Nature. The history of Ireland and Scotland are brought to life with visits to cities like Dublin and Edinburgh, but expedition cruises like these shine the spotlight on destinations beyond the borders of well traveled itineraries. Outfitted in complimentary parkas, guests can venture ashore to a village of 28 persons on remote Lundy Island, just off the coast of Wales, or wander the streets of Fowey, a typical seaside village in Cornwall. Come face-to-face with incredible basalt columns as your Zodiac motors into Fingal’s Cave on the uninhabited Staffa Island. Daily Zodiac expeditions explore remote cliffs that provide temporary homes to puffins and thousands of migratory birds. Let your imagination travel back in time as you wander among mysterious stone circles, pay a visit to an ancient abbey, or hie thee hither to the historical Glamis Castle near Dundee, Scotland. Elegant and refined yet casual and relaxed, Seabourn Venture sets itself apart from other expedition cruise vessels. The attention to every detail results in a high degree of loyalty from past guests.
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LELAND & SEA
BEST LIFE
SEA DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS There’s significant validity to SeaDream Yacht Club’s tag line: “It’s yachting, not cruising.” Yachting is more than just luxury cruising, it’s a luxury lifestyle associated with the rich and famous. It’s what makes champagne wishes and caviar dreams come true.
This is the kind of lifestyle you’ll find on the yachts SeaDream I and SeaDream II. Aboard these smaller 112-passenger vessels, you’ll appreciate the upscale informality and personalized service. It had been three years since we’d meandered through the islands of Croatia with SeaDream, yet within a few minutes of boarding this cruise in Malaga, three crew members recognized us and greeted us by our names.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION The club-like ambience and an itinerary of destinations inaccessible to larger vessels were the elements that had drawn us back. This Mediterranean odyssey included port calls to jet-set Ibiza, Palma de Mallorca, and the sun-drenched island of Sardinia. A full day in Tunisia offered an intriguing escape to North Africa, and a port call to the Maltese island of Gozo capped off a journey that diverged from the well-traveled paths of other cruise ships. Living the good life takes on new meaning with a well-being initiative that includes complimentary yoga and tai chi classes. Factor in a steam room and sauna plus a spa with therapists trained in the art of Thai massage. There are only two Thai-certified spas on the high seas and SeaDream lays claim to both. A small library, piano bar, and even a blackjack table provide options for sea days.
On these yachts, gourmet meals are plated presentations resembling works of art. Since 2011, SeaDream has pioneered offering vegetarian and vegan menus with an emphasis on epicurean excellence.
If sports activity is more your cup of tea, hit the virtual links with the onboard golf simulator in the air conditioned Clubhouse.
DREAM DINING On these yachts, gourmet meals are plated presentations resembling works of art. Since 2011, SeaDream has pioneered offering vegetarian and vegan menus with an emphasis on epicurean excellence. Complimentary wines are expertly paired and served by the yacht’s sommelier with all drinks throughout the cruise included. Although the indoor restaurant is a beautiful, classically designed venue, the abundance of outdoor public space allows for alfresco full-service dinners overlooking the pool, and the open-air Topside Restaurant serves breakfasts and lunches among nautical flair. Yachting is an inclusive experience you’ll not soon forget: the passion for service, being addressed by your name, knowing your preferences, and anticipating every need. Dream on, sailors, dream on.
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SeaDream Yacht Club (x3)
Chocolates on your pillow might be a nice touch, but when was the last time you had your name embroidered on a pair of complimentary SeaDream pajamas laid out on your bed? If romance floats your boat, what cruise ship allows an option to spend a night under a canopy of stars, snuggled up on a special outdoor Balinese Dream Bed complete with pillows and luxury bed linens? Have you ever enjoyed a relaxing soak in a hot tub designed specifically for couples?
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Stuttering Gets the Royal Treatment
King George VI, whose live broadcasts of hope and inspiration kept the spirits of the British people alive during the dark days of World War II, met the challenge of stuttering with courage. If you stutter, you should know about this gentle and courageous man, dramatized in The King’s Speech. For more information on how you can meet your challenge, contact us.
THE
STUTTERING FOUNDATION
www.StutteringHelp.org
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A Nonprofit Organization Since 1947—Helping Those Who Stutter
www.tartamudez.org
800-992-9392
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#CruiseForGood
BEST LIFE
Endless
Summer
Olympic village
Gabriel Medina
Caroline Marks
Vahine Fierro - Queen of Teahupo’o
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Some of the most memorable moments of the 2024 Summer Games took place far from Paris on the island of Tahiti, where the world’s top surfers rode a challenging break known as Teahupo’o. Between contests, their “Olympic village” was aboard the freighter-cruiser Aranui V. Before the competition, controversy erupted over plans to build an elaborate judging stand over the ocean, damaging the very reef that formed the world-class waves. Local surfers, like French Olympian Vahine Fierro (the “Queen of Teahupo’o”), joined protests until plans were scaled back. Now, Fierro and her teammate, gold medalist Kauli Vaast, continue work with Coral Gardeners, and American gold-winner Caroline Marks with Sea Trees, to help replenish threatened reefs and keep awesome waves breaking for future generations.
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Clockwise from top: @vihnefierro,@geektouristique, roman - stock.adobe.com, Flavijus Piliponis - stock.adobe.com, Joseph - stock.adobe.com, @carolinemarkss,
Now the Games are over, Olympic surfers are back to work to preserve the reef and keep Tahiti’s waves rolling.
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Time is running out to protect vulnerable wildlife. Act now. wwf.org
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