Porthole Cruise and Travel, June 2024

Crystal Serenity

DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF CRUISING WITH US

23 SHIPS | OVER 250 DESTINATIONS

On an MSC Cruise, beauty is everywhere. It’s in the thrill of sliding down a waterslide, the allure of top-notch entertainment, and the tranquility of quieter propellers gliding through the open sea. With 23 ships to choose from to over 250 destinations, including the Caribbean, Europe, and Ocean Cay, our private island marine reserve in The Bahamas, we invite you to explore these diverse wonders. Discover the beauty of cruising with MSC Cruises—for a greater beauty.

Introducing The New Crown of Light ® Fancy Shapes.

Crown Brilliant Collection

The Art of Sparkle™

Amber Cove

Antigua

Aruba

Bahamas

Barbados

Belize

Cabo San Lucas

Maya

Cozumel

Curaçao

Puerto Vallarta

Roatan

Maarten

Tortola

Caribbean beauty – Cunard ® style

Spectacular landscapes and colorful marine life. Crystal-clear water and warm sand beneath your toes. Centuries-old rum distilleries and ancient ruins. The Caribbean is brimming with unique delights, and you can experience them all on board Queen Elizabeth.® With new voyages embarking from vibrant Miami, discover Barbados, Saint Lucia, Jamaica, and beyond in signature Cunard® style.

9 nights 2025

28 Nov 18

Dec 9

Dec 30

2026

Jan 20

Feb 10

Mar 3

Mar 24

12 nights 2025

16

6 Nov 27

Dec 18 2026

Jan 8

Jan 29

Feb 19

Mar 12

Apr 2

21-night voyages are also available. To view more 2025 & 2026 Caribbean voyages, visit Cunard.com/Caribbean

Traveling Tall

The more places you go, the more people you meet, the more you enjoy what makes us different — and what brings us together.

Or it can mean meeting people you’d never talk to back home: a Bajan street vendor, an Alaskan Native sculptor, a saffron-robed Buddhist priest, a barely dressed Queen of the Drummers at a Brazilian samba school. It means a lot of different things, and learning to enjoy all those differences. In Porthole, we’ve always treasured the differences.

This issue, we’re celebrating the differences that make us all proud of who we are, as we are, no matter where we are. We are…

▪ … traveling along with Lola Méndez for a Pride-focused visit to Portland, Oregon, on page 22.

▪ … going to Galveston with Richard Varr to see where Juneteenth came from and how it lives on today, on page 52.

▪ … exploring the Arctic Circle and visiting a remote Inuit village with Judi Cohen, on page 60.

▪ … tasting the pride of Scotland with Kate Wickers’ tour of Edinburgh’s new fresh cuisine, on page 26.

▪ … reminiscing about the Golden Age of cruising to our near neighbor Cuba (with our ongoing political differences) as revealed by E.P. Roorda, on page 42.

▪ … savoring the proud rebirth of Crystal Serenity, a stately ship now sailing for new owners with an all-new interior as experienced by John and Sandra Nowlan, on page 34.

Everywhere we travel, we find people who have something to be proud about, and some new and different ways to appreciate all the things back home. We’re pretty proud of the stories in this issue, too. I hope you find something different here to look forward to traveling to.

Bon voyage,

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

Facebook.com/CruiseTravelBP/ Instagram.com/cruisetravelBP/ Twitter.com/cruisetravelBP Tiktok.com/@CruiseandTravelBP YouTube.com/@CruiseandTravelBP Linkedin.com/company/porthole-cruise-magazine See You on Social ! TRAVEL OPENS YOUR MIND, PEOPLE ALWAYS SAY, WITHOUT REALLY THINKING WHAT

It can mean touching a Filipino person’s hand with your forehead as a sign of great respect … it means you’re asking for a blessing. Or it can mean asking a new Chinese acquaintance, “Chi fan le ma?” as a casual greeting … it means “Have you eaten yet?” Or it can mean swirling a vintage Bordeaux in its glass during a tasting, first to watch the inky “legs” develop as the plum-colored wine runs down the inside of the glass, then to release rich aromas of blackberries, spice, and black coffee … which you can actually smell, one by one.

Terri Colby

Lola Méndez

Terri, an award-winning writer and photographer, currently sits on the board of the Society of American Travel Writers. She’s happy to leave Chicago in February any chance she gets. Cruising is a favorite mode of travel, and Colby has visited six continents via ship.

Lola is an UruguayanAmerican who writes about sustainability, travel, lifestyle, wellness, LGBTQ+, and Latinx topics for CNN, USA Today, InStyle, ELLE, Refinery29, and her responsibletravel blog, MissFilatelista. com.You can follow her on social media @ LolaAnnaMendez.

See You on Social !

Facebook.com/PortholeCruise

Instagram.com/PortholeCruise Twitter.com/PortholeCruise

John & Sandra Nowlan

John and Sandra are travel and food writers based in the port city of Halifax, Nova Scotia. Cruising has been their passion for the past decade and they have traveled to and written about all seven continents. Their articles and photographs have appeared in newspapers and magazines throughout Canada, the United States, and Australia.

E.P. Roorda

Richard Varr

E.P. is a maritime historian from the Lake Huron shore of northern Michigan. His books include Twain at Sea: The Maritime Writings of Samuel Langhorne Clemens (Brandeis University Press, 2018), The Ocean Reader: History, Politics, Culture (Duke University Press, 2020), and Cats At Sea from A to Z (Amazon/KSP, 2023). He has been a lecturer on cruise ships for more than 20 years.

Tiktok.com/@PortholeCruise

Richard has written for USA Today, the Dallas Morning News, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Highways, and Home & Away He authored a DK Eyewitness guide to the Pennsylvania Dutch Country, and his Porthole story on Grenada earned first place in the SATW Central States international stories competition.

BILL PANOFF

Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

LINDA DOUTHAT

Assoc. Publisher/Creative Director GRANT BALFOUR

Managing Editor

SKIP ANDERSON

Art Director

SARA LINDA

Proofreader

JUDI COHEN, TERRI COLBY, ALEX DARLINGTON, STEVE LELAND, LOLA MÉNDEZ, JOHN AND SANDRA NOWLAN, E.P. ROORDA, RICHARD VARR, KATE WICKERS

Contributing Writers

ALAMY, AWL IMAGES, ESTOCK PHOTO, TERRI COLBY, UNSPLASH, RICHARD VARR

Contributing Photographers

SALES OFFICES

Corporate HQ/PPI Group 1500 West Cypress Creek Road Suite 403 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 (954) 377-7777

Email: sales@ppigroup.com

WILLIAM P. JORDAN III

President

STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing

BILL PANOFF

CEO/Chairman

WILLIAM P. JORDAN III

President

AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF

Chief Operating Officer

PIERO VITALE

Chief Financial Officer

LINDA DOUTHAT

SVP, Publishing

STEPHANIE DAVIES VP Digital Marketing SOREN DOMLESKY Director of Technology

JUNE 2024 ISSUE 251

Cover image: Crystal Serenity in New York Harbor.

Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2024 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com.

To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Eastern time; email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year digital subscription (6 issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax. To make address changes or ask questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com.

by E.P. Roorda

by John and Sandra Nowlan

by Richard Varr

Touring

Here’s how

Nothing

What

This

The Editor-in-Chief Awards are like my personal Oscars, but instead of celebrating movie magic, I’m highlighting the things you might not think about when planning a vacation.

This year, I’ve organized them with travel planning in mind: who to follow for the best travel advice, where to eat on the road or at sea, the best things to pack before you go (or before you come home), and of course the best places to go and best ways to get there.

Voting opens soon for our Readers’ Choice Awards … but before you start picking your favorites, take a moment to appreciate some of mine.

Maybe they’ll help make your next trip the best one yet!

— Bill Panoff

WHO TO FOLLOW

▪ Goeswithoutsaying @CruiseandTravelBP

▪ YouTube cruiser @tipsfortravellers

▪ YouTube traveler @evazubeck

▪ IGfoodie @stickaforkinme

▪ Speakerseriesatsea VikingCruises'ResidentHistorianLectures

▪ Social media

Carnival Cruise Line

WHERE TO EAT

▪ Bar at sea Blue Eye (Ponant’s Explorer Class)

▪ Restaurant at sea Rudi's Seagrill (Carnival Cruise Line)

▪ Local food tour

Silversea’s S.A.L.T. Adventures End of the World Gourmet Experience in Ushuaia, Argentina

▪ Burger on land

Legendary® Steak Burger, Hard Rock Café, Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino (Hollywood, Florida)

WHAT TO PACK

▪ Passport / Visa service GenVisa

▪ Motion sickness remedy Reliefbands

▪ Luggage delivery worldwide Luggage Forward

▪ Cruise souvenir Tortuga Rum Cakes

WHERE TO GO

▪ Post-cruise shopping in Miami

Aventura Mall

▪ Pre- and post-cruise in Fort Lauderdale Dania Pointe

▪ Onboard spa operator

OneSpa World

▪ U.S. homeport

PortMiami

▪ Shoreexcursion

MSCCruises,PompeiiCityTour

▪ Alaskan attraction

Taku Lodge

▪ Caribbean attraction Harrison’s Cave, Barbados

▪ Caribbean hotel Sandals Resorts

HOW TO GET THERE

▪ Mobility/accessibility provider Special Needs Group

▪ Short cruise Margaritav ille at Sea

▪ Hawaiian itineraries

Norwegian Cruise Line

▪ South American itineraries Oceania Cruises

▪ Caribbean itineraries Carnival Cruise Line

▪ Alaskan itineraries Princess Cruises

▪ Airport experience Istanbul A irport (IST)

▪ Cruise port connector Brightline

Pre- and post-cruise in Fort Lauderdale : Dania Pointe

Cruise port connector: Brightline

Short cruise: Margaritaville at Sea

LGBTQIA+ -OWNED

MADE WITH PRIDE

What we love, by people who love what they are. Everyone’s got a reason to be proud, and Porthole’s proud to help these creators represent. We always showcase the most stylish designs from all kinds of makers’ brands, but this issue, we’re sharing the pride with LGBTQIA+-owned, native and indigenous-owned, and Black woman-owned studios.

SUAY is Thai for “beautiful”

This L.A.-based studio specializes in remade, upcycled, or naturally grown textiles for clothing, home goods, or custom upholstery. All products are handmade at their facility, from “a combination of post-consumer waste, deadstock and domestically, organically grown fibers,” assembled with the skill and taste to make every unique item beautiful, in all its stripes, panels, textures and colors. Pride Pillows like these come in Lumbar (14”x 26”) or Square Throw (24”x 24”) sizes, and a veritable rainbow of looks. You can even buy just the covers to remake your own pillows at home!

QUEER CANDLE CO.

This Philly-andBrooklynbased firm features soy-based, non-toxic fragrances decorated with a representation of the scent, from herbs to minerals to dried fruit, and donates 10 percent of profits to the Sylvia Rivera Law Project.

THE PEACH FUZZ

This San Francisco studio believes speaking up should be fun, with cute stickers, pins, lighters, jewelry, and clothing all inspired by the words of Toni Cade Bambarayou: “The role of the artist is to make the revolution irresistible.”

STUZO CLOTHING

A “gender-free” clothing line based in L.A. (but with a “heart beating to the drums of the big city of New York”), Stuzo is the work of AfricanPanamanian Renaissance woman Stoney Michelli Love.

ALL

her designs make a statement, with many featuring the company logo, a crown (because sometimes, you’ve got to wear one of your own).

Looks range from tailored pants suitable for an elegant affair to casual crop tops, “Woman Up” tanks, and this Black Magic Mashup Sweater Set, bringing together yellow and black in a combo that grabs attention every which way.

THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS.

Stop at any of our ports to experience unique culture, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with endless shopping and attractions. Come experience the best the Caribbean has to offer.

B.YELLOWTAIL

Bethany Yellowtail is a citizen of the Northern Cheyenne Nation and a corporate fashion veteran with a keen eye for magical accents. Her Four Directions Wool Jacket is lined with affirmations, the Power Suit Wide Leg Ribbon Pant is emblazoned with the colors of the cardinal directions, and even notions like the Crow Stripe Satin Ribbon (above) invite you to create your own look.

NATIVE & INDIGENOUSOWNED

TRICKSTER COMPANY

Siblings Rico and Crystal Worl, of Tlingit and Athabascan heritage, founded this studio as a way to preserve artistic traditions — like 4,000-year-old Northwest Coast formline artwork — in 21st-century creative products — like light saber T-shirts, laser-cut alderwood pendants (left), greeting cards based on Rico’s 2021 “Raven Story” postage stamp design, and numbered art-prints depicting the wolf and moon (below). Some of its earliest designs were for skateboard decks and sports gear, and today, as part of the Haa Aaní Alliance of purpose-driven mountain brands, they’ve added goggles, skis, snowboards, socks, and accessories — and donate a portion of proceeds to salmon conservation.

ETKIE

Carry tradition forward to the future with luxury beaded cuffs handcrafted on a traditional loom by Diné Navajo artisans. The RED Collection honors feminine strength with coral-colored glass beads over leather lining with adjustable copper inlay — all materials locally sourced from New Mexico.

JUSTICE OF THE PIES

Hear ye, hear ye! Justice can be served hot, cold, sweet, and savory thanks to this “social mission in a culinary art form.” The Chicago-based firm offers delicious delivery as well as workshops for elementary-aged children from lower-income communities teaching creativity, cooking skills, and nutritional development. Bakery founder Maya-Camille Broussard has created the Justice of the Pies cookbook filled with inspirational stories, and The Broussard Justice Foundation, a 501(c)3 devoted to ending food insecurity.

BLACK WOMANOWNED

HUMILITY from the earth

Skincare serums, body butters, nourishing drops, and herbal supplements, all derived from the organically grown plants — that’s how founder Yanique Teape built her beauty brand. Everything is non-toxic, food-grade, and designed to soothe, from digestion-easing herbal drops to chamomile rose water for toning and cooling clean skin.

The BLAQUE Movement and BLAQUE, Inc.

Healing starts from within, people say, but with The BLAQUE Movement, it starts with faith. This is a fitness community drawn by religious belief to spread healthy living and create lives of wholeness and abundance. What started as table talks in Harlem in 2020 has grown into a wellness app, a coaching service, and a community that offers outings, counseling, and support for the upward movement of the mind, body and culture.

YAYDAY PAPER CO.

Blogger-crafter Amber Kemp-Gerstel launched YayDay as a way to deliver design and creativity in the easiest way possible — with digital patterns you download and print at home. Planner bundles include stickers that decorate a theme (like coffee cups or flowers) and mark hours, days, or targets (like payday or things to do). But there are also creative concepts like 3D paper flowers for gift decorations, and advice on how to pick printers, ink, or paper stock for your own creations.

RhythmAN ISLAND OF

On St. Kitts, every moment carries its own rhythm. Steel pans, cowbells, and electrifying cheers during the St. Kitts Music Festival. The rustle of trees and the whirring motors of a thrilling ATV ride. Vervet monkeys chattering as the sun rises over your spot on Mt. Liamuiga’s peak. Find the rhythm that moves you, and follow it to St. Kitts.

Visiting the Rainbow City

Portland shines in Pride Month, but the glamor and good times last all year for any Oregon visitor.

by Lola Méndez

Roots & Crowns

OREGON’S PORTLAND PRIDE IS CELEBRATED ANNUALLY IN JULY with the two-day Waterfront Festival, followed by the Pride Parade. But Portland is a very LGBTQIA+-friendly destination for queer cruisers (and anyone else) throughout the year, even outside of the Pride season. In 1970, shortly after the Stonewall Riots in New York City, locals formed the Portland Gay Liberation Front. Two years later, Oregon became he fourth state to repeal laws against gay sex, and two years after that, banned employment discrimination based on sexual orientation. More recently, Portland was the first major U.S. city to elect an openly gay mayor, Sam Adams, in 2008. In 2014 Oregon’s ban on same-sex marriage was overturned.

Here’s how to experience a day of LGBTQIA+ travel in “The City of Roses.”

UP AND AWAY

Start your morning at the Speed-O Cappuccino in the Lil' America food-cart pod. The queer-, sex worker–, and Latinx-owned vegan cart serves Mexican coffee and tamales. Speed-O is dedicated to supporting its community through donations to nonprofits and mutual aid funds such as the Cascade AIDS Project.

Once you’re caffeinated, it’s time to dive deep into Portland’s quirky shopping scene. Start at Amity Artisan Goods in The Shops at 10Y. The retail store serves as a center for underserved artists, women, immigrants, LGBTQIA+, BIPOC, Latinx, and AAPI makers of artisan goods and gifts. Nearby is Wildfang, a tomboy-chic boutique of genderless clothing. Founded by two Nike alums, Wildfang seeks “to liberate menswear one bowtie at a time” with stylish blazers, button-downs, cardigans, tees, wingtips, and more. Afterward, browse the shelves at Roots & Crowns, a queer-owned small-batch apothecary offering botanical skin-care products, natural perfumes, and herbal remedies formulated with wild or organic ingredients that have been sourced mindfully and ethically.

Speed-O Cappuccino

FUEL & FREEDOM

For lunch, dine at the Chelo pop-up at the Dame Collective. Helmed by Latinx trans chef Luna Contreas (as seen on Netflix’s Snack vs Chef), the seasonal, vegetable-forward menu is an homage to Contreas' grandmother, Chelo, and the Mexican fare she made while she was growing up in Guadalajara. Contreas credits Chelo for her love of food, as her grandmother used to take her to local markets to buy ingredients for her fonda. On the market days, Chelo would let Contreras wear dresses, thus embracing her gender identity long before she came out as trans.

Even if there’s not a female sporting event being televised during your day in Portland, The Sports Bra is well worth a visit. It’s the first bar dedicated to women’s sports in the U.S. and is queerowned. Despite 40 percent of professional athletes being female, women’s sports make up only 4 percent of sports media coverage. Jenny Nguyen, a former basketball player, opened "The Bra'' after watching an NCAA tournament in the corner of a bar with the sound off. Nguyen wanted to ensure sports fans had a space to come and watch female athletes compete — with sound on — while enjoying an LGBTQIA+-safe space, local beers, ciders, and typical bar fare. Grab an early dinner here and choose from Vietnamese-style ribs, turmeric cauliflower wings, a turkey club, or a tempeh Reuben.

Nguyen wanted to ensure sports fans had a space to come and watch

A GOOD NIGHT OUT

While lesbian bars are tragically closing at a rapid pace around the U.S., Portland recently opened “a lesbian bar for everyone.” Doc Marie's is named after Marie Equi, a lesbian who was one of Oregon's fiercest champions for labor and women's rights. Check the calendar of events to see what is on during your visit as Doc Marie frequently hosts queer karaoke nights, salsa dance lessons, trivia, and single’s happy hours. The cocktail menu features both mocktails and alcoholic concoctions, such as the Pick Up Line, made with gin, orange liqueur, and lemon. There’s only one place to end an epic day of exploring LGBTQIA+ institutions in Portland: CC Slaughters. The club has been the go-to gay nightclub in Portland since 1981. Throughout the week, DJs spin different genres of music. Grab a few of the house Jell-O shots and dance the night away!.

Top to bottom: Daffodill Studios, Chelo, Jade Hewitt Media & The Sports Bra (x3)

Chelo

Braw By-Bits and Pure Tidy Scran

Forget “fried.” Edinburgh’s food scene is fresh, fit, and fantastic.

by Kate Wickers

“

it ye doon yer welcome” is the invitation at Edinburgh’s leading gastropub, The Scran & Scallie (owned by Michelin-star endowed Scottish Chef Tom Kitchin), where I tuck into seared Orkney scallops with cauliflower and apple, followed by poached smoked haddock fishcakes. Surrounded by bountiful seas, and fertile lands, Edinburgh is one of Europe’s most exciting gastronomic cities, with award-winning restaurants that celebrate Scottish produce, and challenge the country’s reputation for food high in calories, fats, sugar, and salt (more on the infamous deep-fried Mars Bar later). Among the tidy scran (that’s “good food” to you and me), you’ll still find classics such as Scotch eggs, proper porridge, and haggis on the menu, but today they’re often delivered with a healthy, modern twist.

The Edinburgh Larder on Blackfriars Street is considered the city’s benchmark for excellent breakfasts cooked using local produce (the blackboard on the wall shows a map of their suppliers). If you haven’t booked, arrive before 10 to bag a seat next door in sister café Little Larder, which operates a walk-in service with the same menu. Here, I order roasted flat mushrooms, tattie scones (a Scottish staple, made with leftover mashed potatoes and flour), and poached egg. “Can I not tempt ye with a wee bit of haggis?” the waiter wants to know. Haggis is perhaps the most wellknown of all Scottish food, traditionally made with boiled sheep’s offal, onions, oatmeal, and suet stuffed into a sheep’s stomach. Served here, it’s like a delicious crumbly sausage, but if the idea of it isn’t getting your gastric juices flowing, opt for the veggie version as both have a delicious peppery, nutty flavor.

Almost as famous, Cullen skink is a soup named for the old fishing harbor of Cullen and made with peat-smoked finnan haddie (cured haddock), poached gently in milk with potatoes and onion. To try some, I head to a stalwart on Edinburgh’s dining and drinking scene since the Victorian era, Café Royal. This is a classic pub, where tourists and locals alike feast on platters of Scottish rock oysters while seated either in cozy leather booths below stained-glass windows in the main bar or amid the splendor of its tucked-away oyster bar, the city’s oldest. They also serve the best cranachan in town, a moreish dessert made with raspberries, cream, oats, and whiskey, originally eaten as a celebration after harvest, but now considered the king of Scottish puddings.

Scottish salmon was the first foreign food to gain France’s prestigious Label Rouge quality award. Award-winning seafood restaurant Ondine, which has

Local botanical liqueur-makers, Aelder, offer wee drams of wild spiced elderberry to passers-by.

sustainable fishing at its heart, serves up the best. Enjoy it simply with a slab of their homemade treacle bread. The Lookout, which sits atop Calton Hill with fantastic views of the city, is all about seasonally sensitive food and offers an inventive tasting menu of seven courses (in autumn, think venison loin with pumpkin, plum, honey, and dandelion). For world cuisine, there are some interesting twists to be had, such as the bao buns filled with the best slow-cooked Highland-cattle brisket at Lucky Yu.

Stockbridge’s Sunday Market is considered the best in the city, where stalls selling partridge and new-season grouse rub shoulders with those offering salmon fished from Loch Duart and rainbow trout from the River Tay. Local botanical liqueur-makers, Aelder, offer wee drams of wild spiced elderberry to passers-by. At lunchtime, opt for a takeaway seafood paella topped with juicy Scottish langoustines (the country’s most valuable shellfish export). Also in this neighborhood — and the talk of the town — is the recently opened Lannan Bakery on Hamilton Place. (You can’t miss it as there’s always a queue). Peer through its pretty Georgian windows at the working kitchen where the likes of rhubarb-and-custard tarts and hazelnut cake with bramble curd are created, before making your mouthwatering choice. (All is delicious but the cardamom buns get my vote.)

On Victoria Street, with its pretty rainbow-colored shopfronts, you’ll find I.J. Mellis, purveyors of farmhouse and artisan cheese for 30 years. Buy a taster plate of three — Auld Reekie from the Cairngorm mountains, an Isle of Mull cheddar, and a Lanark blue — served with oatcakes. This Scottish produce–packed provision store also does brisk trade in homemade small pies (the favorite snack of any Scottish football fan) and Scotch eggs: a boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat and coated in breadcrumbs.

Still curious about the deep-fried Mars Bar? Well, it’s not an urban myth at all, but sold and enjoyed the entire length and breadth of bonny Scotland. In 1995, a maverick at the Haven Chip Shop (now named The Carron Fish Bar) in Stonehaven on the northeast coast had the idea of tossing one into the deep-fat fryer. The result is a warm, oozing, caramel chocolate treat wrapped in batter, now as iconic as the bagpipes and a certain loch-dwelling monster. Biting into one is a moment of pure indulgence — in Edinburgh, try one at Café Piccante — but, at around 1,200 calories a go, is perhaps best viewed as a once-in-a-lifetime culinary adventure..

Top to bottom: Chloe Frost

/ Unsplash, Lucrezia Carnelos / Unsplash

Romance Railway

Touring Andalusia by train takes you into the heart of Spanish history

by Terri Colby

Three musicians take the stage in Andalusia’s capital city of Seville. Their haunting voices, hand claps, and guitar chords are just a small taste. When the dancers emerge — a woman in a flowy, ruffled dress and a man in a tailored suit — the vocals and yearning guitar merge with the percussive beats of the dancers’ shoes hitting the wooden floor.

As the ruffles swirl in the air, the musical notes and rhythmic percussion of feet and hands build to an intensity that envelops both the audience and the performers in the flamenco spotlight.

When you have a stage-side seat in Seville, it’s impossible not to be drawn in to the passion of flamenco, named in 2010 by UNESCO to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

A trip to the large, southwestern region of Andalusia delivers much of what Spain is known for around the world: flamenco, distinctive gastronomy, bullfighting, seaside resorts, and magnificent art and historic architecture that blend Christian

A REGION OF RAILS

Spain’s extensive train system, with both regular and highspeed routes, means you can get to much of Andalusia’s most popular and walkable cities without a car. We used the high-speed AVE trains for visiting Córdoba and Seville. But rail lines can deliver you to other well-known spots like Málaga, Granada, and Cádiz.

My husband and I stepped onto an AVE train after an overnight flight from the U.S. to Madrid. The transfer from the airport to the train was simple. Our plan was to ride the train, first to Córdoba (about 250 miles from Madrid) and then on to Seville days later, along the same

Our 2-night stay in Córdoba was way too short, but we spent our time there thrilling to its patio gardens and the famed Mezquita, or Mosque Cathedral, two things that make Córdoba different from anywhere else in the world.

From ancient times, buildings in Córdoba were constructed with central courtyards to help keep residents cool in the hot, dry climate. Families filled the spaces with fountains and flowers. In 1918, the city began an annual contest to choose the best patio. The contest is in early May, but the patios are so popular that you can see them at other times of the year, too.

We visited in April and it was a delight to explore the courtyards, each with a specific

The patio gardens are remarkable, but Córdoba’s outstanding Mosque Cathedral is like no other place.

According to tradition an ancient Christian church was the first house of worship on

From ancient times, buildings in Córdoba were constructed with central courtyards to help keep residents cool.

spring morning, a walk through Córdoba’s patios

extravagantly colored

the more subtle hints of jasmine, citrus,

hear water gurgling footsteps crossing

the site in Córdoba’s old town. After the growing Muslim empire conquered southern Spain in the 8th century, Córdoba’s new rulers built a grand mosque and expanded it over the following centuries, including the addition of a soaring minaret. When Christian forces of Castile recaptured the city in

1236, the new rulers built a Renaissancestyle cathedral inside the mosque. Visitors can pass under its terracotta and white striped arches, typical of Islamic design, and walk a few feet to see the cathedral, with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque flourishes. Next stop, Seville: less than an hour by AVE train from Córdoba.

Courtyard gardens

Renfe High Speed Train in Seville

Castanets

When you have a stage-side seat in Seville, it’s impossible not to be drawn in to the passion of flamenco.

SUNSHINE IN SEVILLE

Seville is a busy, walkable city with a warm Mediterranean climate, lively dining options and history and culture on full display.

One of our favorite stops in Seville is one of its most popular. The Plaza de España in the Parque de María Luisa is a huge open space flanked by impressive buildings constructed for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. With fountains, small canals, and benches in the shade, it’s a terrific way to spend an afternoon. We marveled at the tilework depicting scenes from each of Spain’s provinces. And the bridges decorated with ceramic tiles and blue-and-white spindles are a visual delight.

You can rent a boat for a ride through the canals or just enjoy great people watching on one of the benches. The day we were there, a young woman was dancing flamenco-style in one of the porticos.

Like Córdoba, Seville was ruled by the Muslim empire until the 13th century, when it became a part of the Christian kingdom of Castile. Seville’s golden age followed, literally: From the banks of the Guadalquivir River on which the city sits, Spain’s exploration of the Americas was launched, and the gold and silver plundered by the conquistadores flowed back into the city. By the 16th century, Seville was one of the largest cities in Western Europe. The grandest enduring monument to that period is the Cathedral of St. Mary, said to be the largest Gothic cathedral in the world.

Any visit to Andalusia is a treat, but make sure to spend enough time to enjoy all that is available in this place where passion and history merge. And you can enjoy the romance of train travel to explore it all..

For more information on Andalusia, visit the tourism board's website at: www.andalucia.org/en/home

Maglev train in Shanghai

The Plaza de España Cathedral of Saint Mary

Great Sacristy, Cathedral of Saint Mary

WITH NEW OWNERS AND A WHOLE NEW LOOK, CRYSTAL’S

ULTRA-LUXURY CRUISING IS BACK.

by John and Sandra Nowlan

Return to Serenity

Until its bankruptcy in 2022, Crystal was the world’s mostawarded luxury cruise line. It won numerous “World’s Best” accolades in the years since the line was founded in 1988 by Japan’s NYK (Nippon Yusen Kaisha) Group and the launch of Crystal Harmony. That ship was followed by Crystal Symphony in 1995 and Crystal Serenity in 2003.

Two years later, in 2005, Harmony retired from the Crystal fleet, but the line’s reputation continued to grow.

All images courtesy of Crystal Cruises

Sold to Genting Hong Kong in 2015, Crystal was in an expansion mode, buying several river ships and a luxury expedition vessel, when covid hit. Costs escalated and Genting declared bankruptcy.

In 2022, Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity were arrested in Freeport, Bahamas, for unpaid bills. To the rescue came Illinois-based Abercrombie & Kent Travel Group which acquired the Crystal name and paid $25 million for Symphony and $103 million for the newer, larger Serenity. A&K was determined to return the two Crystal ultra-luxury ships to their former glory. The luxury travel company paid an Italian shipyard an estimated $150 million to restore and enhance them. In late 2023, we joined Crystal Serenity in Quebec City for its first North American cruise since its dramatic downfall and revival.

ABOARD SERENITY

The ship made a stunning first impression. From the tasteful, elegant atrium to the top decks (now with pickleball courts, of course) there was little indication that this was a 20-year-old vessel. Our accommodation on Serenity was one of 116 Sapphire Veranda Suites on Decks 8 and 9, each an impressive 537 square feet, including a double-wide balcony. At the shipyard, every room on those two decks was gutted and stripped to bare steel, then replaced by fewer, larger and more elegant suites. Fourteen new single-guest oceanview rooms (without single supplement) were added. In fact, with the refit, passenger capacity dropped from 970 to 740. With a crew of 655, 80 percent of whom returned to the ship after layoffs, service levels were, as expected, remarkably good.

Our living room in the suite had a large sofa, a marble-topped work desk, a table for meals and snacks, and four comfortable chairs. It included a large, walk-in closet, Nespresso coffee maker, and a fridge stocked with complimentary Champagne, wine and beer. Every room on Serenity includes the services of a well-trained butler. He or she can provide spirits (vodka, rum, gin, or whiskey from the complimentary list) or non-alcohol wine and beer. The butler also brings hors d’oeuvres every afternoon, fresh fruit daily, and can look after all needs including complimentary laundry and pressing or specialty dining reservations. There’s a tablet in every room with daily programs, restaurant menus, and even full copies of daily newspapers from around the world. If requested, a printed daily schedule is available.

There’s a curtain between the living room and the bedroom where guests enjoy a comfortable, king-size bed with highend Italian sheets, the most luxurious we’ve ever experienced at sea. On each side of the bed is a marble table, reading lights, USB ports, and electric plugs for both North American and European devices. Both rooms include a 50-inch, high-res TV with a wide selection of movies and TV channels from the U.S. and abroad. The whole ship, including each suite, has complimentary Wi-Fi with a signal equal to the best at sea.

The bathroom in our suite included two well-spaced sinks along a marble counter, both liquid and bar soap, toiletries from upscale Ortigia Sicilia, and a huge shower, big enough for three people. It had a choice of four separate nozzles.

CREATIVE CUISINE

Outstanding cuisine has always been a hallmark of the Crystal experience and the new owners intend to build on that reputation. Many of the restaurants — including the Marketplace Buffet, Trident Grill, and Tastes Kitchen, all on Deck 12, and the main Waterside restaurant

on Deck 5 — have been refreshed and upgraded. We were pleased to see fresh-squeezed orange juice and real maple syrup at breakfast. We asked a pastry chef about getting almond croissants, our favorite, a style not normally available. Sure enough, they were there at breakfast the next day.

The most significant culinary changes were evident in the two specialty restaurants on Deck 7. Umi Uma (Sea Horse), known as Silk Road prior to 2018, is Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s only restaurant at sea. It was totally gutted and refurbished and is now much brighter and more modern-looking, with changed color schemes, tables, and fixtures. The popular sushi bar remains and table guests can enjoy Nobu’s award-winning Japanese-Peruvian specialties like Lobster with Truffle Yuzu, Sashimi Salad, and MisoGlazed Black Cod.

Prego, the Italian specialty restaurant on Deck 7, is now known as Osteria d’Ovidio to honor Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio, former owner of Silversea Cruises and now executive chairman of the Abercrombie & Kent Travel Group. He clearly influenced the Italian menu. Our favorite dishes included Lobster in Aqua Sale, Salt Baked Sea Bass, Tortello Pasta with Braised Beef, and Risotto with Scampi.

CREATION AND ENTERTAINMENT

The elegant Palm Court, with its wrap-around ocean views on Deck 12, has always been the relaxation and reception center on Crystal Serenity. It has stayed much the same with daily trivia and formal afternoon tea as regular events. The popular Mozart Tea, presented once each cruise with waiters in late-18th-century attire, has been dropped by the new owners. In its place, a Chocolate Tea is featured.

Unlike many cruise lines, Crystal has not cut back on the quality of its entertainment or the number of performers hired. We were delighted with the talent of the seven-piece Galaxy Show Band and the 10 singers and dancers in the ensemble. Enrichment lectures with top international speakers are available daily, plus golf, bridge, art, and Computer University at Sea instruction. Serenity has a large library, an extensive spa, and numerous bars with skillful mixologists.

On our cruise, the former casino had been turned into another lounge. But casinos are important for many guests, especially for the Asian market, and plans are afoot to bring back at least a smaller casino on both Crystal ships.

Later this year, Crystal Serenity will be on the West Coast for Alaska sailings followed by an extensive, 42-day cruise from Vancouver, through the Panama Canal, ending in Quebec City.

We’d cruised with Crystal several times prior to its bankruptcy and were always impressed with the refined service and atmosphere. It’s now evident that Crystal Serenity’s new owners, Abercrombie & Kent, are clearly committed to enhancing that reputation.

Hotel Director Scott Peterson, himself a 20-year Crystal veteran, told us that A&K was the best possible suitor. “They had their eye on Serenity for many years” he noted. “Until the bankruptcy, Crystal was the No. 1 cruise line in the world. Our goal is to return to that status and to be exceptional.”.

YESTERDAY AND TOMORROW

uising,

How did Cuba become the most important destination in cruising … and how could that happen once again?

by E.P Roorda

In January 2023, a federal district court judge issued a guilty verdict against four cruise operators — Carnival Corp., MSC Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Holdings and Royal Caribbean Group — for “trafficking” in illegally confiscated property. Their crime was taking Americans on cruises to Cuba between 2015 and 2019, and docking at a pier in Havana that the Cuban government seized from its U.S. owners after Castro came to power.

Judge Beth Bloom fined the four companies a

total of $450 million, and ordered them to pay it to the heirs of the original owners of the Havana Cruise Port Terminal. The corporations — one might call them the Big Four of the cruise industry — appealed the ruling, and the final outcome is unresolved at this writing. In the interim, for people who want to cruise to Cuba, the only option is European-based Marella, the sole line serving Cuba at the present time. But American citizens don’t qualify. What is that all about?

CRUISING’S CRADLE

As the largest island in the Caribbean, Cuba was central to the development of cruising as a pastime and a global business. But, because Cuba was the biggest problem of the Cold War in the Caribbean, it has been absent from the modern boom in the cruise industry. Cuba’s heyday as a cruise destination came earlier.

When did “cruising” come into being in the first place? Until relatively recently, no one went to sea unless they had to make a living from it or go someplace across it. No one went for amusement or relaxation — life at sea was too dangerous and uncomfortable for that. But technological advances made it possible by the middle of the 1800s for some adventurous types to entertain the idea of ocean travel as leisure. And Cuba — so near, yet so exotic — loomed large in the imagination of pioneer cruisers in the United States.

As the largest island in the Caribbean, Cuba was central to the development of cruising as a pastime and a global business.

The dawn of Caribbean cruising might have been in 1859, when Richard Henry Dana, one of those pioneer cruisers, sailed from New York to Havana and wrote a book entitled To Cuba and Back: A Vacation Voyage about his experiences. Dana (best known for his 1840 travelogue of California, Two Years Before the Mast) had a wonderful time in Cuba. His appreciative descriptions of the island’s natural beauty, climate, and people drew attention to the place, along with a surge of visitors and business venturers who transformed it.

Descriptions of the island’s natural beauty, climate, and people drew attention to the place.

Left: Gavin Hellier / AWL Images, rudiernststock.adobe.com

Right: Kav Dadfar / AWL Images

Cuba — so near, yet so exotic — loomed large in the imagination of pioneer cruisers in the United States.

FRUIT AND FRIDGES

In the late 1890s, the development of the banana industry revolutionized vacation travel to the Caribbean. The key innovation was refrigerated holds for freighters, which kept the cargo of fruit at 50 degrees, fresh for faraway markets. Vessels with air-conditioned cabins and public spaces could keep their passengers cool, too, greatly enhancing the appeal of “a vacation voyage” to the tropics. Round-trip “Banana Boat” excursions from Boston, New York, and New Orleans caught on quickly.

The United Fruit Company dominated the trade. Its sleek steamships routinized routes to Jamaica and Cuba, piled on the onboard amenities, and published large, colorful magazine advertisements to attract passengers. “U. Fruit” hyped its ships as the “Great White Fleet,” because of their gleaming hulls, painted to reflect the Caribbean sun and keep the bananas chilly and green.

Neither Jamaica nor Cuba proved to be great places to grow bananas, and the “fruiters” lost excursion traffic to rival steamship lines. While 20 steamship lines and 20 ferries offered transportation to Cuba in the 1920s, two companies competed with the Great White Fleet in regular service, quality of food and accommodations, and marketing. The Ward Line and Munson Line developed a duopoly in Cuba during the tourist boom of the Roaring Twenties, when Prohibition drove thirsty American visitors there in droves. Ward and Munson divided up the territory, with Ward specializing in Havana and Matanzas and Munson running coastal routes.

END OF AN ERA

This first rise of Caribbean leisure travel by sea ended with the twin blows of the Great Depression and World War II, which drove the Ward and Munson Lines into bankruptcy. The advent of jet travel prevented a quick rebound for cruising after the war, but there were signs of life in the 1950s. The volume of traffic picked up, and the Cunard Line established its winter headquarters in the Caribbean, using its fleet of trans-Atlantic “passenger liners” to “cruise” during those months. That was the advent of today’s “repositioning” voyages.

The 1950s boom in tourism to Cuba, boosted by jet technology, came crashing down in 1959, when Castro came to Havana and targeted the industry; the last ship providing regular service, the Miami-based ferry City of Havana, made its final departure from what’s now Havana’s cruise terminal in 1961.

The Cold War has prevented Cuba from taking part in the revival in Caribbean cruising for the last 60 years. The situation endures today, the legacy of a communist government that seized private property. In response to the seizure of American businesses, the U.S. imposed a trade embargo in 1962, which made travel to Cuba practically illegal by invoking the 1917 Trading With the Enemy Act. People who spend any money on the island face prosecution. The 1996 Helms-Burton Act extended the ban, making it illegal to have anything to do with properties seized by the Castro regime. That includes the harbor infrastructure necessary for cruise tourism.

Those rules were skirted under the Obama administration with “People to People” cultural exceptions that involved cruise lines, but then aggressively reinstated during the Trump years, leading to the current state of limbo and federal litigation.

But we can be certain that the Cuba cruise market will explode as soon as the restrictions are lifted, with the companies above interested in resuming service from Miami, and a new heyday in cruising to Cuba will begin..

The 1950s boom in tourism to Cuba, boosted by jet technology, came crashing down in 1959, when Castro came to Havana and targeted the industry.

The Cuba Review and Bulletin (1906)

A new travel series hosted by Bill Panoff.

Streaming now, on:

Download an app for your favorite device, or check your smart-TV app list, and watch the first season of the Porthole Cruise and Travel Show wherever you are.

Hosted by Bill Panoff

BIRTHPLACE OF A HOLIDAY

Galveston’s Juneteenth

Absolute Equality Mural tells the story

by Richard Varr

It depicts a momentous event in one of the bleakest stains in American history. Emblazoned with a background of a swirling flag and seemingly battle-ready African-American soldiers, the Absolute Equality Mural ’s dominating image highlights that longawaited day when Union Major General Gordon Granger presented the order of what’s now called Juneteenth — when Texas’ enslaved people were set free.

The giant public artwork spans a wall of a 19th-century building along Galveston’s Strand, a busy retail street with New Orleans French Quarter-style balconies hanging over beachwear boutique storefronts, restaurants, and even a saltwater-taffy shop popular with locals and those about to board cruise ships. Yet the mural is

testament to how this island port city saw one of the final blows to American slavery take place on June 19, 1865, culminating in the enactment of a national holiday exactly 156 years later.

“It was decided that Galveston would be the place to end it — even though it took them a couple of years to get here.” says Tommie Boudreaux, a Galveston Historical Foundation board member and chair of the foundation’s African American Heritage Committee. That’s because President Abraham Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation took effect January 1, 1863, but official word didn’t reach Texas until almost two and a half years later, making Texas the last Confederate state to abolish slavery.

“While we’re just a small island, we have a major story,” adds Boudreaux.

ART AS STORY

The mural portrays that story with likenesses of a bearded General Granger with the United States Colored Troops, Texas’ first-known enslaved African in 1528, and also President Lincoln and abolitionist Harriet Tubman.

“She never came to Texas but we went with Tubman because we wanted to talk about the Underground Railroad in Texas which went south to Mexico, which many people don’t know,” points out Samuel Collins III, a historian and community activist. Known locally as “Professor Juneteenth,” Collins was instrumental in the mural’s creation.

There’s also an image of Texas Representative Al Edwards who sponsored the 1979 bill making Texas the first state to enact Juneteenth as a

state holiday. President Joe Biden and Vice President Kamala Harris signed a bill creating a national holiday on June 17, 2021, just two months after the mural’s completion by Houston artist Reginald Adams and his team. “What really triggered Juneteenth becoming a national holiday, unfortunately, was the murder of George Floyd,” says Collins.

The mural gets its name from a passage in Granger’s General Order No. 3, which reads, in part, that Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation “involves an absolute equality of personal rights and rights of property between former masters and slaves, and the connection heretofore existing between them becomes that between employer and hired labor.”

By coming to Galveston, you get to be immersed in the experience, to retrace the steps where the soldiers came.

A HOLIDAY WALK

To commemorate Juneteenth this year, residents have planned banquets, lectures, concerts, and other activities over two to three weeks, as they do every year. However, you don’t have to visit in June to appreciate the holiday and to learn what happened here.

“I tell people you can read about swimming and watch a documentary on swimming, but at some point you have to get in the water. It’s the same with Juneteenth,” says Collins. “By coming to Galveston, you get to be immersed in the experience, to retrace the steps where the soldiers came, got off the ship, delivered the message of freedom and then moved throughout the State of Texas.”

To do this, the self-guided Juneteenth Freedom Walk map and video presentation can be accessed on mobile devices through VisitGalveston.com. It highlights five key locations beginning at Pier 21. (From here, I could see Galveston’s newest homeported cruise ship, Carnival Cruise Line’s Excelclass Carnival Jubilee, docked within sight during my visit.) The pier is where a historic marker details the so-called Middle Passage trans-Atlantic slave trade route that reached Galveston’s port.

The second stop on the tour is the Absolute Equality Mural on the outside walls of the Nia Cultural Center which, inside, showcases the works of local artists. The mural overlooks the city’s Juneteenth Marker and the adjacent parking lot — the former location of the Osterman Building, which served as Granger’s Galveston headquarters. A short walk leads to the tour’s third stop, the columned 1861 U.S. Customs House, occupied by Union troops after Granger’s arrival and where General Order No. 3 was also posted.

“This building, because it had been a Confederate office building, still had a functioning printing press,” explains historian Edward Cotham, author of the book Juneteenth: The Story Behind the Celebration. “They were used to print multiple copies of the Juneteenth order, probably thousands of them. They were the freedom papers that many of these enslaved people always remembered as being part of the source of their emancipation.”

Richard Varr (x4)

Carnival Jubilee through the rigging of 1877 tall ship Elissa

This island port city saw one of the final blows to American slavery take place on June 19, 1865.

Reedy Chapel-AME Church

Ashton Villa

THE FIRST MARCH, THE FINAL STOP

The fourth stop on the self-guided tour is the Reedy Chapel-AME Church founded in 1848 along the island’s central artery, Broadway, where enslaved people gathered and where they first marched as freed people during early Juneteenth celebrations. The march is reenacted every year.

The tour’s final stop is just a few blocks away at the 1859 Ashton Villa on Broadway, one of the first brick private residences built on the island, and home to Galveston’s Juneteenth exhibit, “And Still We Rise….” Since Juneteenth 2022, interactive screens with digitized newspaper clips, oral histories, and timelines have taken the visitor through the quest for emancipation, Granger’s General Order No. 3, and beyond to the present day.

Visitors can listen to narrations drawn from written reactions and historical records when Juneteenth came to be — the jubilation of enslaved people and the new reality for those who had owned them, now realizing they no longer had free labor. “Many were already aware that the Emancipation Proclamation had been signed. Slave narratives indicate some heard their masters speaking about it. People were moving around state to state,” says Boudreaux. “Many of them left, trying to find their families.”

Says Collins: “What we’re doing is flavoring up the history when you visit Galveston by telling you some of the unknown stories and places you need to visit. Hopefully, individuals will come get a taste of Galveston.

“The mural is our chalkboard, and this is our outdoor classroom.”.

Around the World

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.

by Alex Darlington

POLAR SCIENCE FOR TOMORROW’S TRAVELERS

Hurtigruten continues to prove that it’s more than just a luxury line. As well as going where few other cruise companies travel, it’s also a strong supporter of scientific research, making valuable contributions to the exploration of our world — and doing it with maximum sustainability.

During the 2023-2024 season, Hurtigruten Expeditions (HX) has donated more than 1,100 cabins to researchers studying Antarctica, and given support to more than 20 important projects through its Science and Education Program. And what’s more, they’re doing it with utmost care for the environment.

“We have a profound responsibility to safeguard the places we explore,” says HX Chief Scientist Dr. Verena Meraldi. “Beyond minimizing our footprint, it is our duty to leave these places better than we found them.”

CARNIVAL’S CLEANER-PLATE CLUB

Carnival Corporation, always at the forefront of the war on waste, has taken a giant step toward its goal of making a 50 percent reduction in wasted food by 2025. This year, they’ve achieved an impressive 38 percent reduction in food waste per passenger. This is a continuing trend with Carnival. Just last year they cut food waste by 30 percent.

They’re making these strides by implementing dramatic high-tech measures such as the use of biodigesters that naturally break down and dispose of unused food.

“It’s a labor of love to serve amazing meals to millions of guests each year, while making sure we manage it in the most sustainable way possible,” said Carnival’s Chief Maritime Officer Bill Burke.

ACCESS ABOARD!

The world’s top cruise lines continue to show they care about the comfort and pleasure of all their passengers by improving accessibility for those with limited mobility and other issues that can get in the way of the best possible vacation.

Here are just some of the impressive ways they’re making things easier:

• Princess makes sure all their ships have accessible staterooms.

• Royal Caribbean provides free access to The Autism Channel on most ships.

• P&O’s flagship, Arvia, allows wheelchair users to choose among accessible balcony, seaview, and inside cabins.

• Newly appointed Celebrity president Laura Hodges Bethge is making it her focus to make sailing a joy for passengers with limited mobility. The line’s website helps agents book cruises for the disabled. Bethge’s stated promotional goal says it all: “Cruising without boundaries.”.

Crystal Serenity, Veranda Suite

The Inuit and I

Nothing is guaranteed on an Arctic expedition cruise, and that’s a wonderful thing.

by Judi Cohen

There I was, comfortably seated on a charter flight bound for Greenland, on my way to fulfill a lifelong dream — visiting the High Arctic. I had carefully studied the itinerary and researched every detail on the Adventure Canada website. I could barely contain my excitement about seeing polar bears in their natural environment and visiting the small Inuit communities I had read about in textbooks.

But once aboard the Ocean Endeavour in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, the reality of an expedition in the Arctic hit me. Things don’t go as planned. They never do. That’s the first lesson in Arctic cruising.

Along the way, I also learned a few things that could be useful before you plan your own farnorth adventure.

I quickly learned that in the Arctic, plans are merely suggestions.

ICE CHARTS SET THE RULES

At a pre-departure meeting at Toronto’s Pearson Airport, our expedition leader made some ominous predictions about the weather forecast and the state of the sea ice around Resolute Bay, Nunavut, where our trip would end. This was my introduction to the “ice charts” that would guide our journey and be prominently posted and discussed on the cruise. I hadn’t fully appreciated the impact that weather and sea ice might have on this expedition.

I quickly learned that in the Arctic, plans are merely suggestions. The captain and expedition leader will make changes as necessary for your safety.

Our expedition started off as planned as we cruised north on the west coast of Greenland.

We visited the small city of Sisimiut, savoring Greenlandic delicacies like musk-ox soup and reindeer sausage, and enjoying breathtaking views of brightly colored houses hanging precariously over rock faces at the foot of rugged mountains.

The following day we disembarked again to explore Ilulisatt, known as “the iceberg factory of the Northern Hemisphere,” spitting massive bergs into the ocean as if they were ice cubes.

I could hear the howling and barking of over 6,500 sled dogs as they lay on the bare rocks among the primary-colored wooden homes. The owners of the dogs kept them outside on secure chains while they waited for the winter season for work to start again. With tails wagging, the dogs greeted a truck driver dropping off large trays of food. Having a fluffy white Samoyed as a pet at home, I fell in love with the puppies and wanted to bring one back to Canada!

The joy I experienced walking in these small cities soon gave way to awe during a Zodiac excursion, surrounded by towering icebergs and carved glaciers stretching as far as I could see. We were out for over two hours and thankfully we all wore multiple layers so we could enjoy every minute in this frigid paradise.

ITINERARIES CHANGE UNEXPECTEDLY

We were expecting to leave Greenland the following morning. But the captain and expedition leader advised that it was unsafe to cross the Davis Strait to Canada, so we would continue to cruise into the High Arctic along the west coast of Greenland.

So here I was, expecting to explore Canada’s remote wilderness, yet finding myself stranded in the rugged beauty of Greenland. While I embraced every moment of the extra time here, others were not so understanding. They had their hearts set on seeing more of the Canadian Arctic.

Sisimiut

Zodiac excursion

EXPECT MANDATORY BEAR BRIEFINGS — AND BEAR GUARDS

On most cruises there is only one mandatory safety briefing with a lifeboat drill. But on expeditions crossing the Arctic Circle, I learned that polar bears have priority over all else. Eight bear guards carrying rifles as part of the expedition team would be joining guests on Zodiac excursions and landings. Attendance is taken at the mandatory bear briefings. Failing to attend means you are not permitted to leave the ship on any excursions. The captain, expedition leader, and bear guards collectively ensure that encounters with polar bears remain awe-inspiring rather than hazardous.

On our next unexpected landing in northern Greenland, the bear guards left the ship well ahead of the guests to scout the icy waters and the landing areas. Once cleared for safety, we queued up to board Zodiacs and make our way to land. Bear guards, meanwhile, positioned themselves around a designated perimeter watching for any sight of unwanted and dangerous wildlife.

KAYAK AND ZODIAC EXCURSIONS COULD BE CANCELED AT ANY TIME

Amid the challenges, there were moments of levity. When I came down one morning, I smiled when I read the sign on the bulletin board about kayaking being canceled due to polar bears. Other times, kayak excursions were canceled because the water was too rough. Mother Nature guides the course of an Arctic journey. My advice: if you choose to do an Arctic expedition, temper your expectations.

EMBRACE THE UNEXPECTED

As we finally bid farewell to Greenland and set our sights on Canada, I couldn’t help but wonder what other twists and turns lay ahead. Our adventure was far from over! The captain had to find a route avoiding the sea ice to get us safely to Resolute Bay, Nunavut, for immigration procedures before what turned out to be our sole landing in Canada.

I was grateful to be able to stretch my legs a little during a landing at Beechey Island. Walking across the rocky beach, I approached the graves and ghostly remnants of Sir John Franklin’s ill-fated expedition across the Northwest Passage, marking the place where his ships, HMS Erebus and HMS Terror wintered in 1845. Tears froze as they ran down my face as the harsh reality of Old-World expeditions hit me hard..

Judi Cohen (x2)

Bear guard on duty

Graves on Beechy Island

Q : What famous film shot a scene at this romantic rocky religious site in the Mediterranean?

(answer on next page)

(from previous page)

Q : What famous film shot a scene at this romantic rocky religious site in the Mediterranean?

A: Meryl Streep said “I do, I do, I do” here at Agios Ioannis Kastri, the “Church of John of the Castle” on the island of Skopelos, Greece, as part of the climactic, confusing wedding scene in …

RGR Collection

/ Alamy Stock

Photo

Southeast Asia Revisited

Steve travels the world in style. This issue, he’s returning to Vietnam and Cambodia.

by Steve Leland

Dripping in natural beauty and intrigue, Vietnam and Cambodia have shed the turbulent images of a war from 50 years ago, revealing the reality of a prosperous, resilient culture with travel treasures that are the real deal. To explore with an insider’s perspective, I called on our long-time Vietnamese friend, Ms. Tracey from 365Aplus Travel, to devise a two-week land itinerary followed by a 7-day Mekong River cruise from Saigon, Vietnam, to Siem Reap, Cambodia, with Pandaw Cruises.

HELLO HANOI

On a previous visit to the country’s capital, we followed guidebook suggestions for must-see attractions: the wartime prison dubbed the Hanoi Hilton, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, a water-puppet show at Thang Long Theater, and Ngoc Son Temple. This time, I was all-in on the beating pulse of the city, the historic Old Quarter.

To start the day, our guide Dandy Andy led us to Cafe Dinh, a back-alley haven for local coffee aficionados. The café’s signature egg coffee is a cup of joe sweetened with condensed milk and topped off by a whipped egg yolk. It’s caffeine-laced immersion into the country’s coffee culture.

Walking through the myriad sidewalk vendors, food stalls, and bustling markets is a journey of discovery for

pedestrians. On the streets, a massive swarm of road warriors on motor scooters navigates in choreographed chaos, a fearless urban dance that somehow works without the need for traffic lights.

PHO-NOMINAL DINING

Although culinary creativity is available in established restaurants, nothing compares to being hunched over on a child-sized blue plastic stool, slurping your way through a steaming bowl of pho prepared by a street vendor. No dish is more synonymous with Hanoi than this steaming broth, thinly sliced meat, and rice noodles drizzled with a sweet fish sauce and dressed to thrill with a potpourri of leafy herbs, bean sprouts, and chiles.

Graced by 1,600 spectacular limestone karsts and islands, it’s obvious why the UNESCOrecognized bay ranks as one of Vietnam’s most iconic places to visit.

The café’s signature egg coffee is a cup of joe sweetened with condensed milk and topped off by a whipped egg yolk.

THE SIGHTS AND HEIGHTS OF SA PA

To escape the city’s kinetic energy, Ms.Tracey suggested that we head for the hills: the remote villages near Sa Pa, nestled in the Hoang Lien Son mountain range of northwestern Vietnam. Departing from the magnificent Sa Pa Station, a 20-minute, 10,000-foot ascent by cable car pierces the clouds and whisks visitors to Fansipan Peak. A giant Buddha overlooks temples, pagodas, and shrines with the backdrop of majestic mountains dappled in mist.

The following day we immerse ourselves in the spellbinding landscape, setting off on a guided trek through the terraced rice paddies of the Hmong people. Clad in traditional attire, our Hmong guide Co leads the way to her remote Lao Cai village, where ancient traditions remain as a way of life. A newly created homestay program offers overnight stays and meals in Co’s modest wooden house, the Big Tree Homestay.

Traveling back to the country’s east coast, we take in the natural beauty of Halong Bay aboard the luxury vessel Indochine. Graced by 1,600 spectacular limestone karsts and islands, it’s obvious why the UNESCO-recognized bay ranks as one of Vietnam’s most iconic places to visit. A 1-night cruise includes a walk-through of the impressive Sung Sot cave, plus an early morning kayak into the narrow Luon Cave, dwarfed by colorful limestone mountain cliffs.

STEPPING OUT IN HOI AN

Further down the coast, the charm of Hoi An’s exceptionally well preserved Ancient Town is far removed from the bustle of big cities like Hanoi. As sunlight fades, the glow from thousands of colorful lanterns adorning the amber-hued buildings and a massive fleet of paddle boats paints a nightly collage in the river.

Fansipan Peak

Cafe Dinh coffee

Halong Bay Pho

This Epcot-like theme park features a recreated French village, a towering Buddha statue, flowering gardens, and an entertaining indoor arcade. The two massive stone hands supporting the Golden Bridge are the attraction’s mostInstagrammed feature.

The $1.7 billion project of Sun World is perched on the Ba Na Hills 45 minutes outside Hoi An. This Epcot-like theme park features a recreated French village, a towering Buddha statue, flowering gardens, and an entertaining indoor arcade. The two massive stone hands supporting the Golden Bridge are the attraction’s most-Instagrammed feature.

With the scooter reigning as the undisputed king of the road in Vietnam, a food tour on the back seat of one of Vespa Adventures’ Italian icons is a great way to explore Hoi An’s gastronomic gems. With our street-smart driver weaving through traffic and back alleys, our only mission was noshing through five different venues.

After 10 days of roaming from the remote north to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in the south, the Mekong River beckoned. Having previously cruised with Pandaw on the Red River in northern Vietnam and the Upper Mekong in Laos, choosing their 7-day Lower Mekong itinerary was easy.

EXPEDITION CRUISING WITH PANDAW

The Mekong River makes a spectacle of daily life: miles of floating fish farms, villages, temples, and a hodgepodge of stilt homes dubiously constructed from sheets of corrugated metal.

Within two hours of embarkation on Mekong Pandaw, we’re off on the first of Pandaw’s included excursions. A wooden sampan transfers us through a secluded canal and mangroves to a makeshift dock, where we set off on foot to a local family’s coconut-candy operation. After sampling the sweets and washing them down with home-brewed snake wine, a motorized tuk-tuk whisks us for a canoe ride through dense, verdant jungle.

Over the course of the next two days, we observed the art of bamboo weaving, a tuk-tuk journey to a Catholic school, a 400step ascent to the Hanging Pagoda of Chua Phuong Dien, and a walk through a local market, all part of Pandaw’s commitment to engagement with local culture.

Golden Bridge

COMING TO CAMBODIA

The river border between Vietnam and Cambodia might be physically vague, but there’s a definite line in the scenery. Crowded waterfront villages disappear and the water becomes more serene. The slower pace provides opportunities to appreciate the onboard amenities of the 48-passenger Mekong Pandaw

The polished, dark wood and nautical furnishings reflect a bygone colonial charm. Under a fully canopied sun deck, chaise longue chairs proffer unhindered views of the passing countryside.

A visit to the Killing Fields and Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh is a chilling reminder of the horrific brutality of the Khmer Rouge regime (1975 to 1979). With increased foreign investment and robust tourism, the city has rebounded in dramatic fashion. An orientation tour by pedalpowered cyclo (a three-wheeled rickshaw) and a visit to the stunning Royal Palace is a treat few have experienced.

Venturing into northern Cambodia on the Tonle Sap River, we explore the rice fields surrounding Kampong Tralach village aboard wooden ox carts … we tie up to a tree in tiny Prek Sela village for a bonfire celebration with local children and families … we have a meditation session with a Buddhist monk at the Udong Monastery.

There are small touches on board: daily shoe cleaning after returning to the ship … complimentary hors d'oeuvres and cocktails at happy hour ... enrichment sessions and movies that delve into the region’s history … music and dance performances that provide cultural engagement.

Unlike trendy newcomers, Pandaw has maintained its original appeal to intrepid adventure seekers, reimagining the colonial spirit of yesteryear’s river travel with the luxuries of modern cruising.

WHAT’S WHAT IN ANGKOR WAT

A final stay in Siem Reap sets the stage for a grand finale. There are landmarks that would be considered obligatory on any bucket list, such as the Taj Mahal and the Great Pyramids. However, to overlook the temple complex of Angkor Wat would be a great misfortune.

Although Angkor Wat is the dominating temple of the area, it is only one of over 300 temples, shrines, and tombs spread over 400 square miles. Ancient history is recorded in the carved sandstone and lava rock walls of Angkor Thom and Bayon Temple. Ta Prohm, where giant tree roots have invaded the sacred walls, feeds your inner Indiana Jones and Tomb Raider fantasies. The storyline of Vietnam and Cambodia is still being written. Looking beyond the past, new generations have sweet dreams of the future..

Suite Nights In Siem Reap

A stay at the Shinta Mani Bensley Collection Pool Villas in Siem Reap is upscale elegance at its best. Brought to life by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley, this boutique property incorporates Khmer design into a chic enclave of ultra-luxe residences surrounded by palms and frangipani trees. Secluded on a tranquil road within walking distance of the city’s bustling Pub Street, this location is a dream for pedestrians.

Individual entrances to each residence open to spacious courtyards with a sculpted wall depicting the billowing white robe of King Jayavarman VII, spilling into a 30- foot private lap pool.

A tiled stairway ascends to a private terrace surrounded by hanging ferns, a perfect place to enjoy an early breakfast from the on-site restaurant. I found it hard to tear myself away from the canopied daybed.

Deluxe linens drape the plush, king-sized bed in the main bedroom, where floor-to-ceiling windows slide open to the pool. Just off the bedroom is an open-air inner sanctum, complete with a stone soak tub lined with floating lotus petals. Personalized hospitality includes a personal butler, concierge, and a spa providing traditional Khmer massages. A boutique features crafts and clothing created by local artisans.

The Kroya restaurant is a comforting alternative to Siem Reap’s street foods. The culinary genius of Chef Chanrith’s degustation menus highlight creative interpretations of Khmer cuisine.

Whether you fall for Cambodia’s bites, sights, or nights, the Shinta Mani Bensley Collection Pool Villas leads the way in every category.

Angkor Wat

YOUR FINAL STRAW

Artist Benjamin Von Wong wanted to create a reminder that every plastic straw adds up. One straw can last 450 years but gets used at a restaurant for only a few minutes — unless you tell the server “No, thanks.” IF THINGS DON’T CHANGE BY THE YEAR 2050, THERE COULD BE MORE PLASTIC THAN FISH IN THE OCEAN. So with the help of Zero Waste Saigon and Starbucks Vietnam, the artist gathered a total of 168,000 discarded straws to build the 10-foot-tall, 36-foot-long “Parting of the Plastic Sea.”

The #strawpocalypse reminder might be hard to forget after winning the Guinness World Record for Largest Drinking Straw Sculpture (Supported)!

All kinds of people like to cruise

trendsetter trailblazer

rock star wave runner

hard core pool partier

book reader thrill seeker