Dufry So Chic #2 by ppigroup

玩味潇洒 SO CHIC

惊艳上海 SHANGHAI SURPRISE

品味热茗 HOT TEA 拯救颜面 SAVING FACE 清酒的名义 SAKE’S SAKE

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Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker

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The Longines Master Collection

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FUNTOSHOP

THE FUSION OF GUTS & GLORY... ...DEFINED

Rather than spend paragraphs and quite possibly even pages explaining the signature blend of artistry, audacity and authenticity that makes Stührling... Stührling, we’ll instead paraphrase what the folks at GearHungry.com said after selecting two of our skeleton timepieces

When it comes to brands that instantly establish you a as connoisseur of classically crafted, quality timepieces, few brands come close to Stuhrling. Case in point, the way our skeleton watches showcase the “guts” of this timeless design is both gloriously simple and breathtakingly mesmerizing.

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to join their “Top Skeletons for 2018” roundup, “If you’ve never gotten lost gazing into a Stührling skeleton watch, you haven’t lived.”

Experience One Today... If You’ve Got The Guts!

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SWISS MADE

CALVINKLEIN.COM

ck Calvin Klein Watch + Jewelry Co. Ltd is one of the rare ambassadors of the Swiss watch industry in the fashion segment. In 1997, Calvin Klein and the Swatch Group merged their formidable talents to create ck Watch. Launched in 2004, ck jewelry features clean lines and design aesthetic. Now, more than 200 different Swiss made designs for both men and women are on the shelves in over 80 nations. Today, under the leadership of Raf Simons, CALVIN KLEINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chief creative officer, the brand is reinventing itself, intensifying its American roots through its values of youth, modernity and audacity, and its role as a cultural crossroads. This fiercely visionary direction, named the new Americana, celebrates the diversity inherent in America. It characterizes both the design and the spirit of current watch and jewelry collections. Modern. Minimal. Precise. The watch and jewelry collection expresses every facet of CALVIN KLEIN.

CALVIN KLEIN high noon

K8M21121 249 $

K8M21126 249 $

K8M214CB 249 $

KM276G6 349 $

Tax free and duty free savings on board

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CALVIN KLEIN minimal

K3M23626 279 $

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K3M2162Y 279 $

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玩味潇洒

SO CHIC

出版人

Publisher BILL PANOFF

BILL PANOFF 助理出版人/创意总监

LINDA DOUTHAT 总编辑

GRANT BALFOUR, PHILLIP CRANDALL, CHANEL SAMSON 高级艺术总监

LAURA ROCHE 艺术总监

SKIP ANDERSON, CAROLINE GEERTZ 制作总监

MARIA BARO 制作经理

TAMMY ROBINSON 创意助理

ALEXANDRIA GEUBELLE 审校

SARA LINDA

Associate Publisher/Creative Director LINDA DOUTHAT Managing Editors GRANT BALFOUR, PHILLIP CRANDALL, CHANEL SAMSON Senior Art Director LAURA ROCHE Art Directors SKIP ANDERSON, CAROLINE GEERTZ Production Director MARIA BARO Production Manager TAMMY ROBINSON Creative Assistant ALEXANDRIA GEUBELLE Proofreader SARA LINDA

LINDA BROCKMAN, ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES, TRISHA DEWEY, TERRY ELWARD, STEPHEN GRASSO, RICHARD VARR

Contributing Writers LINDA BROCKMAN, ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES, TRISHA DEWEY, TERRY ELWARD, STEPHEN GRASSO, RICHARD VARR

特别鸣谢 Dufry公司的 Petra Etzioni, Deidre Morales,

Special thanks to Petra Etzioni, Deidre Morales, Audrianna Manee

Audrianna Manee 和 Madeline Ardon。

and Madeline Ardon at Dufry.

撰稿作者

玩味潇洒由 PPI集团出版

6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 电话：(954) 377 7777; 网站：PPIGroup.com 总裁/首席执行官

BILL PANOFF 首席运营官

AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF 首席财务官

SO CHIC is published by PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 Phone: (954) 377 7777; Web: PPIGroup.com President/CEO BILL PANOFF Chief Operating Officer AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF

JOSE I. MARTIN

Chief Financial Officer JOSE I. MARTIN

玩味潇洒在诺唯真喜悦号游轮的

SO CHIC is distributed in The Haven and Suite

The Haven和套房客舱中进行分发。

accommodations aboard Norwegian Joy.

加拿大印刷

Printed in Canada

© 2018 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. SO CHIC is published by PPI Group. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to editorial@ppigroup.com. Any prices quoted are subject to change, but are correct at press time. Commentary and opinions expressed in SO CHIC are not necessarily those of PPI Group, Norwegian Cruise Line or Dufry. PPI Group, Norwegian Cruise Line and Dufry are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in SO CHIC.

书面许可，否则禁止复制，包括但不限于以数码、电子、机械、复印或其他任何方式复制全部或部分内容。本杂志不承担任何保管或归还未经采用的稿件、摄影、艺术作品或其他材料之责任。敬请通过电邮查询。请发送电子邮件至：editorial@ppigroup.com 。标价可能随时更改，但在发稿时为当时的正确标价。对玩味潇洒的评价或观点不一定来自PPI集团、诺唯真游轮公司或Dufry公司。PPI集团、诺唯真游轮公司和Dufry公司对玩味潇洒中出现的广告所涉及的投诉索赔或优惠活动概不负责。

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茶道

Tea ceremony

Contents

FEATURES

Timeless Watches

A true luxury timepiece should be able to stand the test of time. BY LINDA BROCKMAN

20 Chado: The Art of Tea

目录特写

真正的奢华腕表，应该经得起时间考验。作者: LINDA BROCKMAN

茶道：品赏茶的美感之道

体验日本茶道，就是体验安详宁静本身。作者: TERRY ELWARD

展现最好的一面

只需几个简单小秘诀，就能令您在度假前、度假后、度假中为护肤保养按下“重置”按钮。作者: TRISHA DEWEY

上海的双生双面

过去与未来在上海的双重天际线中交汇融合。作者: RICHARD VARR

岛屿生态瑰宝

如何将一件以天然方式打造的加勒比纪念品带回家。作者: ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES

日本烈酒，大和精神

关于日本倍受欢迎的米酒——清酒的一切必备知识。作者: STEPHEN GRASSO

静待您发掘的乐土

FROM TOP: LARRY DALE GORDON/GETTY IMAGES; OMEGA

隽永腕表

体验诺唯真最充满喜悦的邮轮，感受为您带来的愉悦之旅。

单元

护肤即时尚！呵护自己，迎接美好的明天。

干杯！

无论加冰，还混合调制，

这些烈酒都能给您饱满的口感。

甜美香气

巧用精致香氛，让您更显芳香迷人。

To experience the Japanese tea ceremony is to experience tranquility itself. BY TERRY ELWARD

Best Face Forward

Press the reset button on your skincare with these simple tips to follow pre-, post- and on your vacation. BY TRISHA DEWEY

Shanghai, Two Ways

The past and future are here and now in Shanghai’s dueling skylines. BY RICHARD VARR

Island Eco-Treasures

The Spirit of Japan

How to bring home a piece of the Caribbean, the natural way. BY ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES

All you need to know about Japan’s beloved rice spirit, sake. BY STEPHEN GRASSO

Your Oasis Awaits

Get to know the pleasures of Norwegian’s most joyous ship.

DEPARTMENTS

Skin Is In!

Take care of yours today for a better tomorrow.

68 Cheers!

On the rocks or in the mix, these spirits bring the fullest flavors.

Sweet Scents

Enhance your aura with these fine fragrances.

Omega Speedmaster

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Skin Is In!

Take care of yours today for a better tomorrow.

Clarins Body-Fit

Boss Shower Gel

EstÃ©e Lauder Advanced Night Repair

INGRAM IMAGE

Clarins Multi-Active Jour

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INGRAM IMAGE

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隽永腕表真正的奢华腕表，应该经得起时间考验。作者：LINDA BROCKMAN

Timeless Watches

HUBLOT

A true luxury timepiece should be able to stand the test of time. BY LINDA BROCKMAN 12

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Al Armstrong对自己5岁时得到的销钉式机芯腕表记忆犹新。这也是让他投身钟表行业38年的原动力。他收藏，购买并销售了成千上万枚高端时计，但还是觉得自己得到的第一枚腕表最为弥足珍贵。 “现在它还依旧运行，”来自康涅狄格州的哈特福特的 Armstrong说道。这枚时计与其他一系列被他成为“你能找到的最神奇的微型机械奇迹”一起，保存在他的保险箱中，其中不少零售价高达 150000美元。Armstrong 坚信，腕表能够代代相传，得知女儿将继承自己的这些信物，他感到非常满意。置身于奢华腕表市场近 30年的 Michael Goldstein表示，奢华腕表的买家受多种因素影响。“而查看时间是其中最微不足道的因素。” 买家受到“品牌所暗指的身份地位，品牌历史传承与遗产，以及制造商专业技术的知名度”启发，他解释道。在高端腕表的世界中存在两大基本类型：运动腕表和高级复杂功能表款。（“复杂功能”对于制表商而言，是一项不涉及时、分显示的特色。）在 2015 年法国公开赛上，网球冠军 Rafael Nadal 佩戴了一款为他量身定制的时计，为运动腕表界定了最高水平线。Goldstein表示，这款价值

750000美元的腕表专为适应积极活跃的生活方式而设计，采用超轻复合材质制作，能够承受 Nadal 在冠军赛中的剧烈运动。（Nadal 于20189 年再次佩戴了一款截然不同，外观看似略显低调的奢华腕表。）如今的时尚风格顾问会解释说，每位男性都需要拥有分别适于运动、商务和正装场合的不同腕表，即便他们习惯于在智能手机上查看时间。腕表体现了手机无法传达的守时与时尚风格特质。腕表拥趸也许会拥有满足日常、重大场合、运动和特长或珍藏等不同目的的多款时计.而更为严谨，更有追求的藏家，则远不止于此。

朗朗佩戴着宇舶陀飞轮大教堂三问腕表

HUBLOT

Lang Lang wearing the Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater

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Al Armstrong fondly remembers the pin-lever movement watch he received at age 5. It was the springboard for his 38 years in the watch business. He collects, buys and sells high-grade timepieces worth thousands, but he’ll always cherish his first. “And it still runs,” says Armstrong, of Hartford, Connecticut. The timepiece is in his safe, along with a collection of other treasures that he calls some of “the most amazing shrunken micromechanical miracles you could find” — including a few with a retail price around $150,000. A big believer in passing watches from generation to generation, Armstrong gets satisfaction from knowing that his daughter will inherit his keepsakes. Luxury watch buyers are motivated by many factors, says Michael Goldstein, who has spent nearly 30 years in the luxury watch market. “Telling time is the least of them.” Buyers are inspired by “the implied status that the brand brings, brand heritage and patrimony, and the reputation of the manufacturer’s expertise,” he explains. In the world of high-end watches, there are two basic categories: sports watches and highly complicated models. (A “complication,” for watchmakers, is any feature that isn’t involved in displaying the hour and minute.)

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购买高端腕表的藏家通常消费能力在50000美元上，Goldstein说道。 “如果他们准备在这一价位投资，他们感兴趣的品牌是以采用精良材质，借助才华横溢的制表师打造制表精品而著称，同时拥有将最新技术与传统制作工艺相结合的悠久创新历史的制表品牌。此外，他们还注重其他腕表所没有的特色和功能，寻找与自身生活方式完美契合的腕表。”

上图：拉菲尔·纳达尔在 2018年法网公开赛1/4决赛中。

在考虑可收藏腕表时，在加勒比的免税店购买能够省不少钱。腕表买家能够在6%的销售税减免基础上再享受10% 的免税优惠。 “如果

Above: Rafael Nadal during the quarter finals of The Roland Garros 2018 French Open.

你在加勒比购买的腕表价值 100000 美元，节省的金额相当可观”，

Goldstein说道。 Tissot Couturier Chronograph

对于入门收藏的新手，Armstrong 的建议是： “请一直，一直，一直购买你的心头之好，因为市场或投资走向起伏不定，捉摸不定。

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THOMAS SAMSON/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; WATCH-BULOVA

精密复杂

为了适应动感十足的生活方式，这枚75万美元的腕表采用了超轻合成材料，让纳达尔在比赛中能发挥出冠军水准。

Designed to fit an active lifestyle, the $750,000 watch was constructed of an extraordinarily lightweight composite material to allow Nadal to play at a championship level.

At the 2015 French Open, tennis champ Rafael Nadal set the high-water mark for sports watches when he wore a timepiece custom-made for him. Designed to fit an active lifestyle, the $750,000 watch was constructed of an extraordinarily lightweight composite material to allow Nadal to play at a championship level, Goldstein says. (Nadal won again in 2018, wearing a different, only slightly less luxurious watch.) Today’s style consultants will explain that every man needs separate watches for sports, business and black tie, even if they’re used to consulting a smartphone to check the time. A wristwatch shows a concern for punctuality and style that a cell phone simply can’t convey. A watch enthusiast might have several timepieces for different purposes: everyday, special occasion, sports and specialty or collectible pieces. The serious collector, however, goes beyond that.

THOMAS SAMSON/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; WATCH-BULOVA

而如果你购买的是心中所爱，若市场崩盘，你会说， ‘那又如何，我还是对它情有独钟。’如果你说， ‘我准备倾尽所有，以40000 美元的价格买下这枚腕表，因为价格将会攀升……然而事与愿违之时，该怎么办？” 曾任日内瓦佳士得拍卖行腕表部负责人的Thomas Perazzi 对此表示认同。 “首先，我始终认为，你应该购买自己心中所爱，”Perazzi 说道。 “因为腕表是用来佩戴的。在使用中享受拥有的喜悦。其次，搜寻稀有款式并需要特别注意其状态。这至关重要。” 这看似自相矛盾，但 Perazzi 表示，理想的珍藏腕表应该是可以佩戴的，但必须保持良好状态，没有损坏或需要修复的。 “如果你小心使用，不会出现损坏腕表的风险。” 品牌，手工技艺和状态是评估腕表是否值得收藏的重要标准。另一关键因素则是稀有程度。

IT’S COMPLICATED Collectors who are buying high-end watches will usually spend $50,000 or more, says Goldstein. “If they’re going to invest in this price point, they are interested in a brand that has a reputation for fine manufacturing using the finest materials available and extraordinarily talented watchmakers; a long history of innovation combining the latest technology with old-world manufacturing skills. Beyond that, they look for features and functions not found on other watches, and for a watch that can fit in their lifestyle.” When considering a collectible watch, avoid paying more than you have to by buying duty-free in the Caribbean. A watch buyer can save 6 percent sales tax and another 10 percent duty-free. “If you are buying a watch for $100,000 in the Caribbean, your savings are significant,” says Goldstein.

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Omega Speedmaster

Above: Buzz Aldrin wears an Omega Speedmaster aboard Apollo 11.

珍藏腕表的演进在了解腕表年份和稀有程度时，可将其再细分为两类：复古（1940 年代至1980 年代间制造）和现代（1980 年代之后制造）。在第一次世界大战期间，怀表的使用日渐式微，腕表逐渐成为主流。 “但在后来的数年里，大多数腕表仅具有查看时间的功能，”Armstrong 解释道。在上世纪 80 至90 年代，随着技术日新月异，大家对复杂功能更感兴趣。” 时值 2015 年日内瓦腕表拍卖会之际，佳士得拍卖了一枚由

Abraham-Louis Bréguet 于1813年制作的怀表，这枚怀表原属于拿破仑的妹妹贝佳斯王妃 Pauline Bonaparte 。 “这是一款令人惊叹的怀表，原因有两个：它是一位杰出制表大师的心血之作，同时具有非凡来历，”Perazzi 介绍道。这件作品估价 90000 至180000 瑞士法郎，最终拍卖价格为

240000瑞士法郎，折合252750美元！n

NASA; WATCH - OMEGA. OPPOSITE PAGE FROM TOP: CARTIER; STUHRLING; IWC

上图：巴兹·奥德林佩戴一款欧米茄超霸系列腕表登上阿波罗11号。

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腕表拥趸也许会拥有满足日常、重大场合、运动和特长或珍藏等不同目的的多款时计。而更为严谨，更有追求的藏家，则远不止于此。

A watch enthusiast has several timepieces for different purposes: everyday, special occasion, sports and specialty or collectible pieces. The collector, however, goes beyond that.

NASA; WATCH - OMEGA. OPPOSITE PAGE FROM TOP: CARTIER; STUHRLING; IWC

For someone looking to start collecting, Armstrong advises: “Always, always, always buy what you love because if you try and guess the market or speculate, things go up and down. So if you buy what you love and it crashes, you can say, ‘So what, I love it anyway.’ If you say, ‘I am going all out to spend $40,000 on this watch because the price will go up’ ... what if it doesn’t?” Thomas Perazzi, former head of watches at Christie’s and currently at Phillips, agrees. “First, I always suggest that you should buy what you like,” says Perazzi. “Because a wristwatch has to be worn. It has to be used and enjoyed. Second, look for rare models and pay a lot of attention to the condition. It’s extremely important.” It seems like a contradiction, but Perazzi says the ideal collectible is one that has been worn, but is in good condition and shows no damage or attempts at restoration. “If you use it carefully, there is no risk to damage the watch.” Brand, craftsmanship and condition are all important in assessing a watch’s collectability. Another key factor is rarity. EVOLUTION OF THE COLLECTIBLE When looking at the age and rarity of wristwatches, they again fall into two categories: vintage (made from the 1940s to the 1980s) and modern (made from the 1980s on). In the World War I era, the use of pocket watches began to decline and wristwatches became more popular. “But for the next few years, most watches were just to tell time,” says Armstrong. “In the ‘80s and ‘90s, there was more interest in complications, so the technology improved.” At its 2015 Geneva watch auction, Christie’s sold a pocket watch made by Abraham-Louis Bréguet in 1813 that originally belonged to Pauline Bonaparte, the princess Borghese and sister of Napoleon. “It was an incredible pocket watch for two reasons. It was made by a great watchmaker and it had a huge provenance,” says Perazzi. The piece was estimated to be worth 90,000 to 180,000 CHF (Swiss francs) but sold for 240,000 CHF (about USD$252,750). n

Santos de Cartier

Stührling Regatta 824 Diver

IWC Portofino

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AR11152

AR11105

AR11162

AR11167

AR11139

AR11140

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茶道：品赏茶的美感之道体验日本茶道，就是体验安详宁静本身。作者：TERRY ELWARD

Chado: The Art of Tea

ROBEDERO/GETTY IMAGES

To experience the Japanese tea ceremony is to experience tranquility itself. BY TERRY ELWARD

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ROBEDERO/GETTY IMAGES

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外外国人，却能够体验纯粹的日式茶道，何尝不是一种幸运，这是日本一种独一无二的文化体验。不要期待以骨瓷茶杯和茶托搭配三明治的英式下午茶。我们要体验的，是日本旧式品茶方法，必须在门口脱鞋而入，然后席地而坐。茶道力图通过展现与演示捕捉难得一见的宁静安详的精神状态。

茶道流程茶道是经精心设计的禅意仪式，只专注于烹制和享用绿茶，但一举一动皆蕴含深刻内涵。具体的流程会根据季节和地点而有所不同，但关注的焦点始终是以心无杂念的方式品茶。日本抹茶是用于茶道仪式的荧光绿色茶粉。抹茶是一种富含抗氧化成分的饮品，具有咖啡因相同的提神作用，却对健康更有益。茶道级抹茶拥有最为优异的品质，搭配如珍宝般精美绝伦的日本和果子甜点，中和了茶中的些许苦传统甜品和果子（下图）和茶花插花（右图）欢迎客人。

从茶具的清洁，到茶室的装饰，茶道仪式中需要考虑周全，面面俱到。宾客被请入茶室房间内，举行茶道仪式的房间中以当季鲜花制作的“茶花”（chabana ）摆设作为装饰，通常还会在墙上悬挂书法卷

KENISHIROTIE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; SACK/GETTY IMAGES

Traditional wagashi sweets (below) and chabana flower arrangements (right) welcome guests.

涩味道。

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t’s a lucky foreigner who enjoys a proper Japanese tea ceremony, a cultural experience unique to Japan formally known as the Way of Tea, or chado. Don’t expect bone-china cups and saucers served with sandwiches. The spread is of the old-fashioned Japanese variety and is served on the floor, with shoes left at the door. The art, intended to capture a rare spirit of tranquility, is in the presentation and performance.

轴。茶室房间在每场茶道仪式之前都重新装饰，体现对宾客的敬意。 KENISHIROTIE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; SACK/GETTY IMAGES

大多数茶道仪式在铺设了舒适的榻榻米草席的地板上举行。届时会奉上清口糖果（某些情况下还会准备以筷子夹取的美味小食）并由主人分发，一边说道： “Okashi wa dozo ”，即“请享用一点糖果”。茶水在宾客面前准备：烧水、倒水、搅动、奉茶、洗杯，茶道仪式的每个步骤皆一丝不苟，分毫不差。在仪式结束，宾客将食物和饮品喝完时，由男主人或女主人宣布茶道仪式结束，此时就应该告辞。

它的意义何在？在 8 世纪和 9 世纪，即日本的奈良和平安时期，在日本种植的茶叶是一种昂贵的商品：饮用冲泡的茶叶是一种奢侈之举，因此喝茶从来不能随意对待。喝茶通常出于医疗目的，或是贵族专享，茶树令人敬畏，饮茶成为一种神圣的仪式活动，延续至今。在过去数百年间，关于如何以无可挑剔的完美方式烹茶饮茶的介绍不计其数。茶道依旧是一种体现热情好客、礼貌教养与艺术造诣的方式。

HOW IT HAPPENS The tea ceremony is a carefully choreographed, Zeninspired ritual that simply focuses on the preparation and presentation of green tea, but every action is of significance. Actual procedures may vary with the season and the location but the focus is on the mindfulness of drinking tea. Matcha is the powdered, neon-green tea used for the ceremony. An antioxidant-rich brew, matcha does tend to give one a healthy caffeine kick. Ceremonial-grade tea is the highest quality and is taken with beautiful, jewel-like Japanese wagashi sweets, served to balance the slight bitterness of the tea. A lot of consideration is put into the ritual, from the cleaning of utensils to the decor of the tea room. Guests are called in to the room of the teahouse, which will be decorated for the occasion with a chabana arrangement of seasonal flowers and often a calligraphy scroll on the wall. The room is freshly decorated for each ceremony in honor of the guests. Most tea ceremonies are performed on the floor, on comfortable tatami grass flooring. Palate-cleansing candies are presented (and in some cases savory delicacies with chopsticks) and the host will offer them, saying “Okashi wa dozo,” or “Please have some sweets.” The tea is prepared in front of guests — boiled, poured, whisked, served and cleaned up with ceremonial precision. When the ritual is finished and guests have consumed their food and beverages, the end of the ceremony will be announced by the host or hostess and it’s time to leave. WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN? In the 8th and 9th century, during what is known as the Nara and Heian periods, tea grown in Japan was a costly commodity; the drinking of boiled tea leaves was a luxury and therefore the consumption of tea was not taken lightly. Usually taken for medicinal purposes, or by the aristocracy, the tea plant was revered and the drinking of tea became a sacred, ceremonial activity that is still practiced to this day. Many instructions have been written over the centuries on the perfect way to serve tea. The tea ceremony is still practiced as a way to showcase hospitality, manners and artistic skill.

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茶树令人敬畏，饮茶成为一种神圣的仪式活动。

一名艺伎在倒茶（左图），黎明时分的东大寺（联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产景点）（右图）。

A geisha pours tea (left) and Todaiji Temple (UNESCO World Heritage Site) at dawn (right).

作客礼仪茶道仪式在设有称为“shoji ”（障子）的日式拉门的传统茶室中以私密小团体的形式举行。在到达茶室前会穿过花园，为了迎接你的到来，花园中经精心修剪，石头小径也擦洗的干干净净。提早抵达至关重要，届时请脱下鞋子（千万注意不要穿有破洞的袜子！）并换上主人准备好的拖鞋——别担心，如果不是一次性拖鞋，一定会在你抵达之前事先清洗干净。招待你的主人将身穿精美的传统和服先生，发式和妆容也无可挑剔。如果你没有正式场合所穿的和服，最好盛装出席。重要的是跟随主人的指引：让他们将你请入茶室，在进入房间时他们会为你拉开门。让他们请你就座。请将为你奉上的所有食物吃掉，因为每一样都是尽心尽力以手工制作的。如果其中有一位贵宾，那么这位贵宾会先被请入茶室，先向其奉茶。期间千万不可用手机发短信或打电话，也不能高声谈笑。拍照是允许的，而且强烈推荐。但是请事先向主人示意你想拍照。若是犯错，不必过于在意。日本人遵循“热情待客”的文化，让宾客感觉舒适是头等大事。外国人不熟悉茶道中一丝不苟的规则也是可以理解的。应该向主人大加赞赏并表示感谢，也许可以通过欣赏插花装饰，或感谢主人为你准备如此精美的糕点来表示谢意。最重要，同时也是最轻松的是：真诚地享受这种精心策划，让你得以细细品鉴，让精神得以放松的体验。n

ETIQUETTE FOR GUESTS The ceremony is performed in small, intimate groups in traditional tea houses with sliding shoji doors. You will arrive through the garden, which will have impeccably pruned plants and stone pathways scrubbed clean for your arrival. It’s important to arrive early and remove your shoes (mind that there are no holes in your socks!) to put on slippers offered by the host — don’t worry, if they aren’t disposable they will have been cleaned just for your visit. Your host will be beautifully turned out in traditional Japanese clothing with perfectly arranged hair and makeup. If you don’t have a formal kimono, Sunday best will do. The main thing to do is follow the lead of the host: let them call you into the teahouse as you enter and open the door for you. Allow them to seat you. Be sure to eat everything that’s served to you as each item is painstakingly prepared by hand. If there is a guest of honor, they will be called into the tea room first and served first. Texting and talking on the phone is an absolute no-no, as is talking or laughing too loudly. Taking photos is acceptable — and highly recommended. But first indicate to the host that you wish to take photographs. Don’t be too worried about making mistakes. Japanese people have a culture of hospitality, and making the guests feel comfortable is a priority. It is understood that foreigners are not au fait with the meticulous rules of a tea ceremony. Compliments and a show of gratitude toward the host is appreciated — perhaps by way of admiring the flower arrangement or thanking your host for such beautiful cakes. The most important thing, though, is also the easiest: to genuinely enjoy the relaxing, spiritual experience that has been carefully curated for your appreciation. n

LARRY DALE GORDON/GETTY IMAGES; IAN TROWER/GETTY IMAGES

The tea plant was revered and the drinking of tea became a sacred, ceremonial activity.

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LARRY DALE GORDON/GETTY IMAGES; IAN TROWER/GETTY IMAGES

表达与措辞试着说说茶道专用的传统日本措辞，给招待你的主人留下深刻印象：

• Otemae chodai itashimasu —“多谢奉茶” （在主人给你斟茶时说）

• Taihen kekko de gozaimasu —“真是太棒了” （在被问到你觉得茶如何时， “太棒了”是唯一答案！）

• Shitsurei shimashita —“失礼了” （以此代替告辞。这是离开茶室时最正式，最礼貌的方式。）

EXPRESSIONS AND PHRASES Try out some traditional Japanese phrases specific to the tea ceremony and impress your hosts: • Otemae chodai itashimasu — “Thank you for making tea” (said upon receiving the cup of tea) • Taihen kekko de gozaimasu — “It is excellent” (when asked about your tea. Excellent is the only answer!) • Shitsurei shimashita — “Please excuse me” (said in lieu of a goodbye. This is the most formal, polite way to leave a room.)

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展现最好的一面只需几个简单小秘诀，就能令您在度假前、度假后、度假中为护肤保养按下“重置”按钮。作者：TRISHA DEWEY

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Press the reset button on your skincare with these simple tips to follow pre-, post- and on your vacation. BY TRISHA DEWEY

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You should eat “skin-glowing” foods like berries and avocados. Pick fruits that are full of antioxidants and in season.

NODAR CHERNISHEV / EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES

你应该多吃樱桃和牛油果等“令肌肤柔润亮泽”的食物。请挑选富含抗氧化成分的当季水果。

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有时，我们因为如此专注于日常生活所有责任而感到精疲力尽时，我们将切换到“自动导航”模式，尤其是在对待护肤保养方面，更是如此。坚持每日护肤保养流程变成了令人生厌的琐事。身为执业美容师，我经常听到我们大多数人抱怨事情繁忙之时，护肤保养最终变成了事后才想起的憾事。我的工作，就是帮助人们重新关注肌肤，这样她们就能在所需的最短时间里获得最佳效果。而从身心上彻底摆脱这一困境的最佳时机，则是度假之时。当你远离日常压力，你会发现，通过某些专业水疗面部护理疗程，能够更轻松地理清思绪，放松身心并为自己按下“重置”按钮。你在改善自身整体心理健康的同时，还能令肌肤恢复光泽。以下是令面容保持洁净水润的简单方法，搭配水疗护理疗程，可令肌肤倍感清新亮白，柔嫩顺滑。其目的在于呵护你自己，只需略加注意，您就能看到肌肤在旅行中转变为理想状态！

度假前的准备尽可能多吃水果蔬菜，开始让肌肤进入最佳状态。你应该多吃樱桃和牛油果等“令肌肤柔润亮泽”的食物。请挑选富含抗氧化成分的当 NODAR CHERNISHEV / EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES

季水果。购买当季水果和蔬菜，既能省钱，也能让你享受到最佳新鲜度带来的最大健康效果。从多种食谱中摄取水果和蔬菜，不断尝试，能够带来很多乐趣。将各种沙龙、奶昔和果汁混合搭配，每次添加不同的成分，就不会让你的味蕾感到厌倦。谨记护肤不仅仅包括我们涂抹于肌肤表面的产品；通过将上述食物添加至你的食谱中，你会立即看到效果，肌肤瞬间由内而外绽放动人神采。如果你每天在肌肤上使用视黄醇产品，你需要在度假前一周左右暂停使用这一产品。视黄醇会导致肌肤极度光敏，这意味着阳光会令你的肌肤发红发痒。你可以在度假结束回家之后继续使用视黄醇，它依旧是对抗皱纹的黄金准则。如果将专业面部护理与适宜的产品组合搭使用配，您的肌肤就会绽现意想不到的莹亮光泽。

Sometimes we end up so focused on all the responsibilities of our daily lives, we switch into autopilot mode. This is especially true when it comes to skincare. It becomes a chore to stick to a daily skincare regime. As a licensed aesthetician, I often hear how things get busy and how, for most of us, skincare can sadly become an afterthought. It’s my job to help people get their skin back in focus so they can maximize their results in as little time as necessary. A wonderful time to get out of this rut, both mentally and physically, is when you’re on a vacation. When you escape the everyday pressures, you’ll find it’s easier to clear your mind, relax and give yourself the ultimate “reset” button with some professional spa facials. You’ll be improving your overall mental health while also gaining some luster back in your skin. Here are some simple ways to maintain a clean and hydrated complexion, with spa treatments that will get your skin looking refreshed, brighter and perfectly smooth. The goal is to take care of you and with just a little attention, you will see your skin transform into travel-worthy status! PRE-VACATION PREP Begin getting your skin into prime condition by eating as much fruit and vegetables as possible. You should eat “skinglowing” foods like berries and avocados. Pick fruits that are full of antioxidants and in season. Buying in-season fruits and vegetables will save you money and give you optimal freshness with the maximum health benefits. When you consume your fruits and veggies in various recipes, getting experimental will keep things interesting. Mix up salads, smoothies and juices, adding different ingredients each time to keep your taste buds from getting bored. Keep in mind that skin care is not just about the products we apply on the surface; you’ll see immediate results by adding these foods to your diet as skin becomes instantly more radiant from the inside out. If you use a retinol product on your skin daily, you may want to stop using this product temporarily a week or so before your vacation. The retinol makes skin ultra photosensitive, which means the sun could leave your skin red and irritated. You can continue using retinol upon your return home; it’s still the gold standard for combating wrinkles. When you combine professional facials with the right slew of products, your skin will be more radiant and glowing than you ever thought possible.

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在度假期间让自己保持最佳状态的关键，在于让你的肌肤由内而外绽放莹润亮泽，让人们看到“你”。

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The key to looking your best on vacation is to let your skin shine through and let people see “you.”

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润肤产品事先研究旅行目的地的气候，由此挑选相应的润肤产品。在温暖的热带气候地区旅行，可使用凝露或无油配方。湿度越高，配方越轻透，这样才不会令肌肤感到过于黏腻，泛油光。在干燥炎热的气候地区时，肌肤可承受更多润肤产品，需要在入睡前涂抹丰盈柔润配方。在任何气候条件下，熟龄肌肤皆需要增添滋润，问题不在于是否涂抹，而在于涂抹量和粘稠度。对于成人而言，经验规则是在润肤方面始终遵循“添加”而非节省的原则。如果您发现自己在度假期间所带产品不合适，也不必焦虑！船上的水疗中心备有适宜产品；可以看看是否有适于您需求并让您适度补水保湿的良好建议。

找到自己莹亮魅力市场上有很多仿晒新产品，使用方便，效果极为真实自然。其中许多都是循序渐进的，因此，你可以使用这类产品，直至获得你想要的晒后肤色，并根据自己的需求长期保持效果。它能遮盖肌肤瑕疵，令你更有信心搭配不同风格的服饰。其他令肌肤绽放莹亮魅力的方式，是每周两次在沐浴前尝试“干刷”，去除身体表面的死皮细胞。在进行这一护理流程后，趁着肌肤依旧湿润时涂抹少量椰子油润肤产品。如果你想在度假期间绽放莹亮魅力，请莅临船上水疗中心并询问其是否提供美妙的磨砂和按摩护理疗程。

MOISTURIZER Consider doing some research on the climate when picking the right consistency for you moisturizer. Use a gel or oil-free formula when traveling in a warm, tropical climate. The higher the humidity, the lighter the formula, so it doesn’t make skin feel too slick and shiny. In a dry, hot climate, skin can go through a lot more moisturizer and needs a rich formula applied at bedtime to survive. With mature skin that needs moisture added in every climate, the question is not whether to apply it, but rather how much and to what consistency. For adults, the rule of thumb is to always “add to” and not to skimp on moisture. If you find yourself on vacation without appropriate coverage, do not fret! They have products available at the spa on board; see if they have a good recommendation to suit your needs and keep you properly hydrated.

在旅行时必须谨记的重要事项是，想让自己看起来状态极佳，其实并不需要成吨的护理产品。关键在于令肌肤保持健康亮泽，而不是过度“化妆”。你也许会注意到，在较为温暖的气候中旅行时带来的一定魅力在于，你使用的产品越少，你看起来状态越好。彩妆会在炎热中融化，从不会让任何人看起来美好！在度假期间让自己保持最佳状态的关键，在于让你的肌肤由内而外绽放莹润亮泽，让人们看到“你”。此外，在精心打扮上所花的时间越少，你就越能意识到人们最乐于看到的真实的你是怎么样的。还是把艰巨任务交由专业人士打理吧。美容师可以使用医疗级成分，在短时间内让你的肌肤发生改变。保持肌肤自然状态将有助于展现享受面部护理后呈现的迷人光泽。

眼部和鼻子太阳眼镜必不可少，能够保护您的双眼不受有害紫外线伤害，同时能避免你不断眯眼，防止那些讨厌的眼角鱼尾纹产生。如果你忘了带上太阳眼镜，不妨在船上看看是否有售。您需要戴着太阳眼镜四处走动，尤其是在海上。水面上的阳光反射有时极为刺眼，因此，你需要尽快拥有一副太阳眼镜！您还可以添加一条极具个性的丝巾和一顶遮阳帽来保护自己。在收拾护肤产品时，不要忽略自己的任何感官。您应该找到能令自己感觉在度假的香氛。有时，闻到某种香味时，记忆会如潮水般涌现。在旅行途中选择香氛将唤起你对旅行的美好回忆，在必要时振作精神，让你从日常庸碌生活中暂时解脱。

FINDING YOUR GLOW There are many new products on the market to self-tan that make it easy to apply and are extremely realistic looking. Many are gradual, so you can use it until you build up to your desired color and then maintain it as long as needed. It makes skin imperfections blur away, and will give you new confidence to wear different styles of clothing. Other ways to get glowing skin is to try a “dry brush” twice a week before you bathe to get rid of dead skin cells from your body. Follow this treatment by applying a decadent coconut oil moisturizer while the skin is still wet. If you are looking to jump-start your glow while you’re on vacation, visit your onboard spa and ask if they have some nice scrubs and massage treatments. The main thing to remember while traveling is that you don’t need a ton of products to look great. The key is to keep skin looking healthy and glowing, not overly “made up.” You may notice that part of the charm when traveling in warmer climates is that the less you put on, the better you look. Makeup tends to melt right off in the heat, which is never a good look for anyone! So the key to looking your best on vacation is to let your skin shine through and let people see “you.” Besides, with less time spent on primping, the more you will realize the real you is what people will love to see most. Leave the hard work for the professionals. The aesthetician has access to medical-grade ingredients, and will transform your skin over a short period. Keeping your skin visibly natural will only help to showcase the radiance from a facial.

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EYES AND NOSE Sunglasses are essential for protecting your eyes from the harmful UV rays and will keep you from constantly squinting, preventing those pesky crow’s feet from forming. If you forget to pack them, see if they have any on board. You do not want to go without them, especially on the water. The reflection of the sun on the water is extremely blinding at times, so you’ll need to get a pair pronto! You can also protect yourself by adding a stylish scarf and hat.

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水疗护理疗程当你在船上时，可以享受专业水疗护理疗程，我对此极为推荐，希望您能从中获益。专业美容师将补足肌肤之前受到的忽视，为肌肤提供恢复健康的必要滋养，同时令您的精神达到放松状态。通过面部按摩，您将感受到自己血压降低，暂时忘却家中烦恼。水疗专业人员将尽可能使用仅限执业美容师提供的最高品质成分。这些成分萃取自蕴含护肤维生素和矿物质以及富含抗氧化剂茶多酚的各种莓果。这些营养物质构成了强效护肤精华液，在面部护理时使用将修护肌肤，保护肌肤不受可损害DNA 的有害自由基影响。滋养肌肤的另一好处是，它会开始对你所做的一切表示感谢。肌肤将在享受护理疗程后的数周内持续得到改善。认识你的人或开始注意到你散发出一种全新的诱人品质，但他们却无法明确指出是什么。这种在享受面部护理后产生的循序渐进的变化，源自细胞更新所获得的青春活力。当您接受一系列量身定制的个性化面部护理疗程时，其效果甚至更为明显。肌肤是身体最大的器官，却经常被忽视。我们需要经常为其提供滋养，它则会通过令您看起来比之前状态更好来对你表示感谢。n

SPA TREATMENTS While you are on board, you’ll have access to professional spa treatments, which I would highly recommend taking advantage of. A professional aesthetician will nourish your skin back to health by giving the attention that it’s been lacking, while also getting yourself into a relaxed state of mind. Through facial massage, you’ll feel your blood pressure lower and forget all the responsibilities back home. Spa professionals will apply the highest possible quality of ingredients, available only through a licensed aesthetician. Ingredients extracted from berries are loaded with skinprotecting vitamins and minerals and antioxidant-rich polyphenols. These nutrients create a powerful elixir when used in a facial that will repair your skin and protect it from harmful, DNA-damaging free radicals. Another benefit to nurturing your skin is that it will actually begin to thank you for it. Skin continues to show improvements for several weeks following a treatment. People who know you will start noticing a new alluring quality about you, yet they can’t place their finger on it. This gradual change after a facial is due to rejuvenation in cell turnover. When you get a series of facials with potent, customized treatments, the results will be even more dramatically visible. Your skin is the largest organ of your body and often the most neglected. We need to nourish it every so often, and it will thank you by looking better than ever. n

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When picking skin-care products, don’t neglect any of your senses. You should find scents that make you feel like you’re on vacation. Sometimes when you smell a certain scent, memories will come flooding back to you. Pick scents on your trip that will invoke pleasant memories from your travels, lifting your spirits when you need it and giving you that mental escape from your daily grind.

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上海的双生双面过去与未来在上海的双重天际线中交汇融合。作者：RICHARD VARR

Shanghai, Two Ways

YAORUSHENG/GETTY IMAGES

The past and future are here and now in Shanghai’s dueling skylines. BY RICHARD VARR

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然回首，一座城市的不同历史片段便交叠在一起。黄浦江的一边，是20世纪早期庄严雄伟的殖民风格建筑：古老的海关大楼及其屋顶竖着旗杆的钟楼、银行大楼的圆顶和立柱以及体现装饰艺术风格，富丽堂皇的和平饭店。在黄浦江的另一边，则截然相反的现代世界级大都会景致：高耸如玉的钢架结构玻璃幕墙摩天大楼比比皆是，都是在最近几十年间建成的。浦东商圈是以1535 英尺高，采用球体框架结构的东方明珠电视塔，和 2015年建成，高 2073 英尺，共有 128 层的世界第二高楼——上海中心大厦为主导的 21 世纪城市景观。 “从这里，我们可以同时欣赏新、旧上海”，导游 Qiao Yong Gang 在熙攘的人群中大声说道。他们的喧嚣吵闹增添了第一次看到这座城市标志性地标时的兴奋感。我们正在外滩上漫步，一英里长的滨江大道划分出城市两道对比鲜明的天际线风景。这条景观大道之于

充满生命力的大道经过两天的大雨，这是我第一次清楚地眺望浦东，虽然上海中心大厦的弧形屋顶仍旧被云雾笼罩。天气变好，也让大道上人头攒动，他们似乎以在如此戏剧化的背景下摆出各种姿势拍照为己任，带着牙牙学语的婴儿出行的一家人，脚穿“恨天高”的青春少女，紧紧依偎在一起的情侣，所有人都在用手指轻点智能手机。今早我的任务是走遍整个外滩，了解其中某些具有50年甚至百年历史，体现典型建筑风格的建筑：新古典主义风格、文艺复兴风格和巴洛克式复兴风格。我将探索许多地标，包括与华尔街上象征经济繁荣的雕塑相似的“上海牛”（Shanghai Bull ）。我还期待着能够欣赏浦东88层高的金茂大厦犹如宝塔般的银色尖顶，以及101 层高的上海环球金融中心，与蜿蜒曲折的黄浦江上停泊的拖船和缓缓前行的驳船相映成趣。

Qiao先是指着河对岸犹如巨大天线般的结构。“电视塔是新上海的象征，”他说道。这座电视塔由两个巨型球体组成，位于上方的球体内设一家旋转餐厅和瞭望台，可饱览精彩壮丽的城市风光。另外一组庞大的球体则是邻近的上海国际会议中心的圆形屋顶。我们沿着外滩找到准确的视角，就能看到球体相互簇拥在一起，Qiao告诉我，此情此景，令人想起一句唐诗： “大珠小珠落玉盘”。

ll it takes is a quick turn of the head to get a juxtaposition of different parts of a city’s history. On this side of the Huangpu river sit the stately colonial buildings from the early 20th century — the old Custom House with its flagpole-topped clock tower, the domes and columns of the bank buildings and the grandiose art deco Peace Hotel. On the other side, the exact opposite — a modern world-class megalopolis with soaring steel and glass towers, all built within the last few decades. The Pudong business district’s 21stcentury cityscape is dominated by the spheres and struts of the 1,535-foot Oriental Pearl TV Tower and the 2,073-foot-high, 128-story Shanghai Tower, the world’s second-tallest building, which was built in 2015. “From here we see both old and new Shanghai,” yells tour guide Qiao Yong Gang over the chattering throng. Their commotion adds to the thrill of beholding this city’s signature landmarks for the first time. We’re strolling the Bund, the mile-long riverside promenade that cuts between the city’s dueling skylines. The walkway is as much a part of Shanghai as Las Ramblas is to Barcelona, what Broadway is to New York or what the Champs-Élysées is to Paris.

LEFT TO RIGHT: FANJIANHUA /GETTY IMAGES; JACKAL PAN/GETTY IMAGES

上海，就如巴塞罗那的兰布拉大道（Las Ramblas）、纽约的百老汇（Broadway）或是巴黎的香榭丽舍大街（Champs-Élysées）。

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此情此景，令人想起一句唐诗： “大珠小珠落玉盘”。

The scene brings a poem from the Tang Dynasty to mind: “The big pearls, small pearls drop on the jade plate from heaven.”

左上图：外滩被称为国际建筑博物馆。本图：被云雾环绕的上海金融区

LEFT TO RIGHT: FANJIANHUA /GETTY IMAGES; JACKAL PAN/GETTY IMAGES

Above left: The Bund is known as the museum of international architecture. This photo: Shanghai Financial District in fog.

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欧洲印记很快，Qiao宣布： “两分钟后，我们将听到海关大楼钟楼的钟声响起，海关大楼是一座典型的英式建筑。”钟声响起，即便我们置身于嘈杂之中，也能清晰地听见。大钟每刻钟便会鸣响报时。时至今日，这座 1927年的古老建筑依旧作为海关大楼使用。外滩的 20世纪早期建筑多半依旧被银行和公司企业占据，其他一些则充斥着商店和餐厅。直至19世纪中叶，上海还只是一个河滨农村和商埠。随后，英国、法国、日本和美国的贸易商人在此开辟了名为“租界”的通商区域。在这些租界里，每一个殖民国家都在外滩为它们的办公机构、银行和贸易行建造大楼。租界随着中国共产党的胜利而宣告终结，但上海重新拥有久违的大都会与国际化感觉。 “如果你是30或 40年前来到这里，走在街上时，人们会说， ‘你是外国人’，因为那时很少看到外国人，”Qiao解释说。 “而如今，没有人会在意你从哪儿来，因为现在有很多西方人居住在这里，其中一些普通话说得非常好。” 我们在富有魅力的和平饭店停下。这家饭店的爵士酒吧是城市中最受欢迎的夜店之一。大堂墙壁上排列着一些体现外滩昔日风貌的金属艺术品。其中一件雕塑作品，展现了绿树成荫的海岸线和沿河行使的船只。 “这些船都是货船，都停泊在这里，”Qiao说道。

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHANGHAIFACE/GETTY IMAGES; AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; BRUCE YUANYUE BI/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

This photo: Shanghai Bull in Shanghai’s Huangpu District. Right: The French Concession. Below left: Woman playing a guzheng in the lobby of the Peace Hotel.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHANGHAIFACE/GETTY IMAGES; AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; BRUCE YUANYUE BI/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A LIVING AVENUE After two days of heavy rains, this is actually my first clear view of Pudong — despite the Shanghai Tower’s curving apex still flirting with stubborn cloud cover. The improving weather has brought out crowds whose mission, it seems, is to pose for photos against the dramatic backdrop — families with babbling children, teenage girls with platform shoes and couples snuggling closely together, all tapping on their smart phones. My quest this morning is to walk the entire Bund and discover some of the 50 or so century-old buildings in a sampler of architectural styles — neoclassical, Renaissance and Baroque revival. I’ll explore landmarks including the Shanghai Bull, similar to the statue on Wall Street that symbolizes financial prosperity. And I’m looking forward to observing the silver, pagoda-like pinnacle of Pudong’s 88-story Jin Mao Tower, and the 101-story Shanghai World Financial Center, spectacularly framed behind the curving river’s moored tugboats and slow parade of barges. But first, Qiao points to the massive antenna-like structure across the river. “The TV Tower is the symbol of new Shanghai,” he says. The tower incorporates two giant spheres, the upper one with a rotating restaurant and observation decks offering splendid city views. Another set of colossal twin globes top the nearby International Convention Center. When we find the precise viewpoint along the Bund where the spheres cluster side by side, Qiao tells me that the scene brings to mind a line from a famous Tang Dynasty poem: “The big pearls, small pearls drop on the jade plate from heaven.”

交投活跃和平饭店坐落在通往上海知名购物步行街区的南京路上。沿街而行，路过店铺和露天咖啡馆，女售货员通过放大麦克风大声推销最新特价商品的声音实在刺耳。我看到小贩在沿街兜售玩具。一辆观光电车摇响铃铛，叮叮当当地在拥挤的人群中安全地蛇形而过。清晨，妇女们在此打太极拳，拉伸身体，晚上，忽明忽暗的霓虹灯照亮夜晚的喧嚣，折射在店面和墙面上。这条街上购物广场栉比鳞次，其中就包括“上海第一百货”的多层建筑。 “南京路在 100多年前就已名声显赫，”Qiao说道。 “上海曾经被人们称为‘东方巴黎’，在 1920年代引领亚洲时尚。在当时，香港不过是个一无是处的小渔村。” 沿着步行街继续向前走，我来到了人民公园，穿过草地的小径被修剪整齐的花坛围绕。我听到附近游乐园里过山车的轰鸣声。在一片阴凉处，我看到了不寻常的景象：打开的雨伞倒放在地上，上面挂满了想要寻找配偶的单身男女的广告和照片。但是单身人士不见踪影，只有父母们在展示照片。 “父母们来这里寻找他们的未来儿媳或是女婿，”Qiao解释道。 “他们试着为自己的子女安排约会。许多父母对子女的婚姻感到焦虑，就试着安排相亲。”他补充道。 “将打开的雨伞放在地上，更方便展示，可以挂上更多照片。”

TRACES OF EUROPE Soon, Qiao announces: “In two minutes, we’re going to hear the bells from the clock tower of the Custom House, which is a typical British-style building.” The bells ring clearly, cutting through the cacophony all around us. The chimes repeat every quarter hour. The 1927 building still operates as a customs house today. The Bund’s early 20th-century buildings still house mostly banks and businesses, while shops and restaurants occupy others. Until the mid 19th century, Shanghai was only a riverside farming village and trading post. Then, British, French, Japanese and American traders set up outpost communities known as “concessions.” Within these, each of the colonial powers constructed the Bund’s buildings for their offices, banks and trading houses. Concessions ended with the Communist victory, but the cosmopolitan and international feel has returned to Shanghai once more. “If you were here 30 or 40 years ago and walked the streets, they’d say, ‘You’re a foreigner’ as they didn’t often see any,” explains Qiao. “But today, no one cares where you’re from because we have a lot of people from the West who now live here, who live with the Chinese people. And some speak very good Mandarin.” We stop in the glamorous Peace Hotel. Its jazz bar is now one of the city’s most popular nightspots. Lining the lobby walls are canvasses with metal artwork highlighting the Bund of yesteryear. One is a carving of a treed shoreline and boats along the river. “The boats were for shipping and they all stopped here,” says Qiao.

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本图：南京路。右图：豫园。右下图：纪念品。

回望往昔的窗口穿过公园，往人民广场走去，就来到了著名的上海博物馆，馆内珍

从大肚弥勒佛、灯具到玉器，一应俱全，小贩在兜售手表和首饰，让讨

藏着跨越五千年历史的珍贵文物。馆藏文物包括石雕、精美玉器和陶

价还价成为一项激烈的挑战。城市的西式历史遗迹位于法租界内，这

瓷雕像，以及使用毛笔在丝绸和纸张上创作的精美水墨画。我觉得唐

个由砖砌建筑和窄小弄堂组成的街区，在从19 世纪中叶至 20 世纪中

代（公元 618-907 年）的彩色釉面武士雕像最令人印象深刻，其中一

叶的将近100 年时间里，一直是独立的法国殖民地。如今，这个满是花

些呈现出仿佛昨天新造时的闪耀光泽。

园洋房的街区，已成为拥有各类高端餐厅、咖啡馆、酒吧和商铺的热

城市里还设有一座上海犹太难民纪念馆，在犹太摩西会堂旧址基础上修建，从1907 年起一直是俄罗斯犹太移民的礼拜场所。如今，纪

门旅游景点。我的探险路线将我带回了河边的步行街。晚上，我重新回到外滩，

念馆展现了在第二次世界大战期间，超过 20000 名犹太人如何从大

看到装饰着聚光灯的 20 世纪建筑外墙，沐浴在金色光芒之中。映入我

屠杀中逃脱，在上海找到了和平的避难所。

眼帘的，是海关大楼灯火通明的钟楼，以及和平饭店透着绿色灯光的

上海市内风景最为优美的两处景点呈现出这座城市悠久历史传承

金字塔形尖顶。放眼远望对岸，浦东的电视塔也被类似的聚光灯照射

中截然不同的面貌。体现中国往昔传统的豫园中，蜿蜒曲折的小径和

着，摩天大楼的玻璃幕墙上，五彩缤纷的灯光曲折穿过，为上海迷人

桥梁环绕池塘旁的中式凉亭，而豫园商城中店铺林立，所出售的商品

的双重天际线增添了无限魅力。n

DUKAI PHOTOGRAPHER/GETTY IMAGES; ANDREW ROWAT/ GETTY IMAGES; FEARGUS COONEY/GETTY IMAGES

This photo: Nanjing Road. Right: Yu Garden Pavilion. Below right: souvenirs.

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DUKAI PHOTOGRAPHER/GETTY IMAGES; ANDREW ROWAT/ GETTY IMAGES; FEARGUS COONEY/GETTY IMAGES

‘Eastern Paris,’ leading the fashion in Asia in the 1920s. At that time, Hong Kong was nothing, only a fishing village.” Further along the pedestrian street, I reach People’s Park, where neatly trimmed flowerbeds skirt walkways through the grass. I hear the roar of a rollercoaster in the nearby amusement park. In a shady area, I see an unusual sight: Open umbrellas lie on their sides, tagged with advertisements and photos of eligible singles looking for spouses. But the singles are nowhere to be seen; the parents have posted their photos. “Parents go there to search for their future son- or daughterin-law,” explains Qiao. “They’re trying to set up a date for their children. A lot of parents worry about marriage and try to arrange it,” he adds. “The open umbrella on the floor makes it easy to hold a display, as you can use more photos.”

BRISK TRADING The hotel sits on Nanjing Road, which leads to one of Shanghai’s prominent pedestrian shopping streets. Along storefronts and outdoor cafés, saleswomen shout out the latest bargains through the shrill of amplified microphones. I see vendors hawking toys. A clanking tourist tram rings its bells to safely snake through the crowd. It’s where women stretch to tai chi early in the morning and where pulsing neon lights illuminate the evening bustle, streaking across storefronts and façades at night. The street is home to shopping plazas including the multistory Shanghai No. 1 Department Store. “Nanjing Road became very famous about 100 years ago,” says Qiao. “Shanghai was the place that people here called the

WINDOWS ON THE PAST A walk through the park to People’s Square leads to the renowned Shanghai Museum that contains cultural relics spanning five millennia. The collection includes stone sculptures, intricate jade and ceramic figurines and Chinese paintings of ink delicately brushed on silk and paper. I found the polychrome glazed warrior figurines from the Tang Dynasty (A.D. 618-907) most impressive, some with a sheen like they were created just yesterday. Also in the city is the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum, built around the former Ohel Moshe Synagogue, a place of worship for Jewish Russian immigrants since 1907. Today, the museum shows how more than 20,000 Jews escaping the Holocaust found peaceful refuge in Shanghai during World War II. Two of the most picturesque destinations within Shanghai show off different sides of the city’s long legacy. From China’s traditional past comes Yu Gardens — with its maze of pathways and bridges skirting ponds around Chinese-style pavilions — and Yu Gardens Bazaar – where shops sell everything from laughing Buddhas and lamps to jade figurines, and vendors hawking watches and jewelry give the best hagglers a spirited challenge. The city’s Western heritage lives on in The French Concession, a complex of brick buildings and narrow alleyways that was a self-contained French settlement for nearly 100 years, from the mid-19th to mid-20th centuries. It’s now a popular tourist spot with upmarket restaurants, cafés, bars and shops within scenic courtyards. My exploring leads me back to the riverside pedestrian thoroughfare. I step back onto the Bund in the evening, when the 20th-century building façades are emblazoned with spotlights and bathed in a golden glow. Catching my eye are the Custom House’s illuminated clock tower and the green tint of the Peace Hotel’s pyramid-shaped pinnacle. Across the river, similar spotlights brighten Pudong’s TV tower while multicolored lights zigzag across the glass towers — all adding to the splendor of Shanghai’s dueling skylines. n

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岛屿生态瑰宝如何将一件以天然方式打造的加勒比纪念品带回家。作者：ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES

Island Eco-Treasures

How to bring home a piece of the Caribbean, the natural way.

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BY ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES

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散发珍珠般莹润光泽的沙滩，到草木茂盛，繁花似锦的旖旎风光，加勒比地区随处可见自然之美。许多游客喜欢将首饰带回家，让他们想起海岛的迷人魅力，包括珍珠和海蓝宝石项链，或镶嵌木槿色红宝石的黄金手链。尽管大多数海岛提供不计其数的免税购物可供选择，最为环保（以及通常最为独树一帜）的，却是采用在本地找到的可持续原料手工制作的作品。加勒比特色可持续首饰，采用贝壳和各类种籽等预料之中的原料，同时也包括火山岩和古董陶瓷等不同寻常的物件。以可持续方式制作的首饰，不会对环境造成破坏。采用多种方式的制造流程有可能出现麻烦，因为会留下很大的能源足迹。可持续首饰专注于采用天然或回收再利用原料手工制作的作品。加勒比地区提供一系列本地原料，为名副其实的原创首饰提供灵感，这些首饰作品既能为您增添魅力，也能令您感觉良好。

晶体和半宝石尽管钻石是许多购物游览的亮点，小景点本地开采的水晶和其他宝石则是更具可持续特色的选择。整个地区的许多洞穴和高山中都能找到晶莹璀璨的石英石晶体，可以将其制作出极具魅力的戒指、耳环和项链。最值得关注的加勒比原产宝石是如梦如幻的蓝色拉利玛石，这种火山岩开采自多米尼加共和国，在许多其他海岛上皆有销售。同样可以在多米尼加共和国和海地找到的加勒比琥珀，可呈现出金黄色或荧光绿或荧光蓝色，是独一无二的环保作品。半透明的方解石和彩色玛瑙是在这一地区采用可持续方式开采的其他晶体。

贝壳，海玻璃和种籽也许最常见的可持续首饰，是那些采用闪闪发光的海贝制作的精品杰作。慷慨丰饶的加勒比海，以成串的斑点扇贝壳、海神之螺或价格昂贵的粉红色女王凤凰螺珍珠点缀项链。沙钱海胆、珊瑚、贝类和少量的彩色海玻璃也能做成戒指、手链、发夹和头饰。它们被串在皮绳或手工制作的银链上，或雕琢成独树一帜的瑰宝臻品。海贝是最具可持

rom pearly sand beaches to lush, flowering landscapes, the Caribbean region is filled with natural beauty. Many travelers love to take home jewelry that reminds them of island charm, including pearl and aquamarine necklaces or gold bracelets set with hibiscuscolored rubies. Although most islands offer a never-ending array of duty-free shopping to choose from, the most ecofriendly (and often most distinctive) pieces are handmade from sustainable materials found locally. Sustainable jewelry around the Caribbean features expected materials like shells and seeds but also unusual items like volcanic rock and antique china. Jewelry created sustainably does not harm the environment. Manufacturing processes can be troublesome in a variety of ways beyond leaving a large energy footprint. Sustainable jewelry focuses on handcrafted items created from either natural or recycled materials. The Caribbean region supplies an array of local materials that inspire truly original jewelry for you to both look good and feel good.

CRYSTALS AND SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES Although diamonds are the highlight of many shopping excursions, crystals and stones that are locally mined at small sites offer a more sustainable choice. Sparkling quartz crystals can be found in caves and mountains all over the region and they make just as appealing rings, earrings and necklaces. The most notable native Caribbean gem is the dreamy blue larimar, a volcanic stone mined in the Dominican Republic and sold on many other islands. Caribbean amber, also found in the Dominican Republic and Haiti, can be colored gold as well as fluorescent green and blue for unique, eco-friendly pieces. Translucent calcite and multi-colored agates are other crystals that are mined sustainably in the region.

贝制作首饰是一种装饰性的选择。以铮亮的棕色野生罗望子种籽制作的手链和项链，是安提瓜岛上的一项老派传统，其他岛屿则以一种名为“薏苡”的闪亮白色泪滴形种

多米尼加琥珀手链（下图）；贝壳脚链（最右侧图）

Dominican amber bracelet (below); shell anklet (far right)

SHELLS, SEA GLASS AND SEEDS Perhaps the most common sustainable jewelry are pieces created from gleaming seashells. The bounty of the Caribbean Sea adorns necklaces strung with speckled scallop shells, triton horns or the rosy, prized queen conch pearl. Sand dollars, coral, mollusks and bits of colored sea glass can also form rings, bracelets, barrettes and headbands. You’ll find them strung on leather and hand-formed silver cords or chiseled into one-ofa-kind treasures. Shells are highly sustainable because of the seafood industry’s discarding processes. Creating jewelry from seashells is a decorative alternative. Bracelets and necklaces fashioned from burnished brown, wild tamarind seeds are an old school tradition in Antigua, and other islands showcase accessories made with Job’s Tears, a sparking white, teardrop-shaped seed that is often dyed a variety of colors. Dating back five centuries when European explorers brought coconuts with them on their journeys to the Caribbean, the fruit has become a staple of Caribbean life. Islanders drink the water and eat the fruit, and coconut shells make up a popular jewelry trend. Instead of discarding the empty husks, unisex bracelets and rings are designed from the coffeecolored shells. The vegetable-dyed beads also make colorful necklaces. You can also find purses and satchels covered with or carved from coconut shells.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC MINISTRY OF TOURISM; OPPOSITE PAGE: LUXY IMAGES/RF/GETTY IMAGES

续特色的原料，因为它们是海鲜行业加工过程中产生的废弃物。以海

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DOMINICAN REPUBLIC MINISTRY OF TOURISM; OPPOSITE PAGE: LUXY IMAGES/RF/GETTY IMAGES

左起：海玻璃项链；拉力玛（水淙石）；贝壳，种籽和木珠；古董瓷片；椰子戒指。

籽染成彩色后制作各种配饰。五世纪时，欧洲探险家们在前往加勒比

如将其从船上扔进海里。数百年后，这些古董陶瓷的碎片经常在圣克

地区的航行途中携带椰子，这种水果如今已成为加勒比生活中的主

罗伊岛（St. Croix ）海滩被冲刷上岸，或被深埋于岛屿的土壤之中。

角。海岛居民喝椰汁，吃椰肉，椰壳首饰则引领大受欢迎的首饰潮流

当地儿童会在岩石上打磨这些瓷片，将其棱角磨圆，作为游戏中的假

趋势。与其将空椰壳丢弃，还不如将这种咖啡色果壳制作出男女皆可

钱。 “chaney”（古董瓷片）一词即为“China”（中国）与“money”

佩戴的手链和戒指，并将植物染料染色的椰壳珠串成色彩缤纷的项

（钱）的组合词。如今，手工艺工匠将这些碎瓷片装饰在项链、耳环和

链。你还可以找到覆盖椰壳或采用椰壳雕刻而成的钱包和背包。

手链，以及工艺品上。古董瓷片最常见的颜色为蓝色和白色，但也有红色、棕色，偶尔还会有紫色。有些碎瓷片上甚至有船只、风车或花朵

木料，树脂和纤维

图案。圣克罗伊岛的首饰工匠经常将古董瓷片镶嵌于简约设计中，体

柔润而富有光泽的桃花心木能够制作出令人心动的华美家具，但是也

现这些手工艺品的历史与美感。您可以在许多美属维京群岛的商店中

可以制作成出类拔萃的首饰。许多加勒比海岛上都生长着桃花心木

购买这些回收再利用的作品，但是您也可以自己寻找古董瓷片，作为

树，数百年来，这种木料一直被视为造船、建屋和雕刻的理想珍贵原

可持续发展的终极实践。n

料。如今，由于这种树木遭到过度砍伐，加勒比首饰设计师找到了凸显这种木料独特魅力的创造性方式。采用建筑工地和木材加工厂丢弃的桃花心木废料制作吊坠、戒指和耳环提供了完美的可持续选项。其他数量充足的木材，如铁木、玫瑰木和高槿则经常用于制作首饰，有时更以树脂和金属加以点缀。产自植物和树木的天然树脂也能够制作出极具吸引力的配饰。一些设计师甚至在树脂中压入热带植物的花瓣或叶片，制作出体现加勒比之美的持久作品。手编纤维首饰采用柔韧结实的当地草类甚至纱线制作，是另一种确保可持续特色的方式。

粘土和橡胶加勒比的土壤经常被红色粘土覆盖，制陶是加勒比地区代代相传的一门传统手艺。除了盆罐、花架和器皿之外，粘土还可制作出珠子、吊坠和手链。作品经抛光而呈现出天然棕色，或涂上色彩鲜艳的颜料，搭配当地出产的石材，令粘土首饰成为别出心裁的可持续选择。设计师采用回收再利用的橡胶制作链绳和手镯，并点缀半宝石，是出人意表而又凸显独特风格的可持续首饰。

圣克罗伊岛（ST. CROIX）古董瓷片在美属维京群岛的圣克罗伊岛，你会发现这个岛屿上独一无二的可持续首饰。在 1700 年代，欧洲邮船经常在抵达码头后发现包装好的精美陶瓷变得破损不堪。与其为这些盘碟茶杯支付昂贵的税金，还不

WOOD, RESINS AND FIBERS Rich and glossy mahogany wood creates striking furniture, but it also makes standout jewelry. Mahogany trees grow on many Caribbean islands and for centuries the wood has been prized for ships, houses and carvings. But now the wood has been over logged and Caribbean jewelry designers have found inventive ways to feature the wood. Crafting pendants, rings and earrings from discarded mahogany at building sites and wood workshops offers perfectly sustainable options. Other plentiful woods like ironwood, rosewood and blue mahoe are regularly fashioned into jewelry, sometimes accented with resins and metals. Natural resins from plants and trees also make attractive accessories. Some designers even press tropical flower petals or leaves into them for a long-lasting piece of Caribbean beauty. Handwoven fiber jewelry, made from wiry local grasses or even yarn, are another way to keep it sustainable.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP FAR LEFT: FEEDSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; DALLAS STRIBLEY/GETTY IMAGES; MIKE THEISS/GETTY IMAGES; PHOTO - LYN RANDLE/GETTYIMAGES; PAULO JOSÉ LIMA GOMES / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

From left: Sea glass necklace; larimar; shells, seeds and wooden beads; chaney; coconut rings.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP FAR LEFT: FEEDSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; DALLAS STRIBLEY/GETTY IMAGES; MIKE THEISS/GETTY IMAGES; PHOTO - LYN RANDLE/GETTYIMAGES; PAULO JOSÉ LIMA GOMES / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

CLAY AND RUBBER Caribbean soil is covered with pockets of red clay and pottery is a tradition passed down through generations. But besides pots, plant stands and vessels, clay can also be formed into beads, pendants and bracelets. Pieces polished with a natural brown hue or painted with vibrant shades and paired with native stones make clay jewelry an eclectic choice for sustainability. Recycled rubber offers a surprising take on stylish and sustainable jewelry with designers creating cords and bangles studded with semi-precious stones. ST. CROIX CHANEY On the U.S. Virgin Island of St. Croix, you’ll discover a form of sustainable jewelry that is unique to the island. During the 1700s, European passenger ships bringing colonialists to the island would often realize after landing that the fine china they had packed was broken. Rather than pay the heavy taxes for these plates and teacups, the pieces were thrown overboard. Centuries later, shards of this antique china often wash ashore on St. Croix beaches and can be found buried all over the island. Local children would beat the china pieces on rocks to smooth down the edges and use it as play money. The name “chaney” comes from the blending of the words China and money. Today, artisans feature pieces of chaney in necklaces, earrings and bracelets as well as artwork. The most common colors are blue and white but chaney also comes in red, brown and occasionally purple. Some pieces even display patterns of ships, windmills or flowers. Crucian jewelers often set pieces of chaney in plain designs to show off the history and beauty of these artifacts. You can buy these recycled and repurposed pieces in many Christiansted stores but you can also search for your own chaney pieces for the ultimate exercise in sustainability. n

这些古董陶瓷的碎片经常在圣克罗伊岛（St. Croix）海滩被冲刷上岸，手工艺工匠将这些碎瓷片装饰在项链、耳环和手链，以及工艺品上。

Shards of this antique china often wash ashore on St. Croix beaches, and artisans feature pieces of the “chaney” in necklaces, earrings and bracelets as well as artwork.

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KOJI HANABUCHI/GETTY IMAGES

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日本烈酒，大和精神关于日本倍受欢迎的米酒——清酒的一切必备知识。作者：STEPHEN GRASSO

KOJI HANABUCHI/GETTY IMAGES

The Spirit of Japan All you need to know about Japan’s beloved rice spirit, sake. BY STEPHEN GRASSO

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酒被誉为日本的国酒，采用研磨去麸的稻米发酵酿造而成。日本清酒是一种米酒，但其酿造方法与啤酒更为相似。在葡萄酒酿造过程中，葡萄果实中所含的天然糖份经发酵后变成乙醇——而在清酒的酿造过程中，稻米中所含的天然淀粉成分首先转化为糖，随后才转变为乙醇。与啤酒有所不同的是，这一转变过程是同时发生的，而不是分为两个不同阶段，未稀释的清酒中乙醇含量通常高于啤酒中的乙醇含量，

英语中“sake”一词，在日语中更为确切的对应词应该是“nihonshu”（日本酒）。

在18至20度。 “Sake”（清酒）之名，在日语中用于指代所有含酒精的饮品；而如我们所知，英语中“sake”一词在日语中更为确切的对应词应该是“nihonshu”（日本酒）。

种类与酿造方法

What we know as sake in the English language is more properly termed nihonshu in Japanese.

日本清酒有两种不同类别。Futsū-shu （普通酒）意为“普通清则用于描述在发酵过程中通过更彻底的研磨或进一步添加例如酿造酒精等成分而获得改良的优质清酒。这类优质清酒可进一步细分为多种常见类别。

Junmai（纯米）是仅采用水、kōji（酒曲）霉、酵母和精米酿造的纯清酒，精米步合（即米粒的研磨程度）为30% 。酒体饱满丰富，口感醇厚，略带清香，通常加热饮用。

Honjozo（本酿造）与junmai（纯米）的酿造成分一致，唯一的区别在于在酿造过程中添加了经蒸馏而得的一份酿造酒精。这有助于令清酒口感更为顺滑，香气更为浓郁。通常在常温下（接近室温或体温）饮用。

Ginjo（吟酿）具有更为清淡而层次分明的口感，精米的米核大部分被研磨掉，精米步合达到 40% ，而非通常的 30% 。较低的发酵温度，特别的酵母品种和其他工艺缔造出其精致细腻，香气怡人的口感。通常冰镇饮用能更好地体现其口感。

ake is the national beverage of Japan, created from the fermentation of rice that has been milled or polished to remove the bran. Often described as a rice wine, its brewing process more closely resembles that of beer. During wine production, the sugar naturally present in grapes is fermented into alcohol — whereas to create sake, the starch naturally present in rice is first converted into sugars and then into alcohol. It differs from beer in that this conversion process occurs simultaneously rather than in two separate stages, and the alcohol content of undiluted sake is typically much higher than beer, at around 18 to 20 percent. The designation “sake,” in the Japanese language, can be used to refer to any alcoholic drink; whereas what we know as sake in the English language is more properly termed nihonshu in Japanese. VARIETIES AND PROCESSES There are properly two different types of sake. Futsūshu means “ordinary sake,” and is the basic tablewine version, whereas tokutei meishō-shu describes a premium sake that has been modified during its fermentation process by factors such as more thorough milling or the addition of further ingredients such as brewer’s alcohol. This category of premium sake can be further subdivided into several common varieties. Junmai is the pure sake made of only water, kōji mold, yeast and rice that has had 30 percent of each grain milled away in the polishing process. It has a full, rich body, intense flavor and little fragrance, and is generally served hot. Honjozo is a sake with the same consistency as junmai, with the exception that a portion of distilled brewer’s alcohol is added during its production. This serves to smooth out the flavor and increase the fragrance of the sake. It is typically served warm at room or body temperature. Ginjo sake has a lighter and more complex flavor, which is created by the outermost parts of the rice kernel being milled away by 40 percent rather than 30 percent. Lower fermentation temperature, special yeast varieties and other techniques also shape its delicate, fragrant taste. It is generally served chilled to better bring out its flavor.

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OPPOSITE PAGE: MAGDA RITTENHOUSE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. THIS PAGE: SEIGO YAMAMURA/AFO/GETTY IMAGES; COLLEEN MINIUK-SPERRY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

酒”，是一种基本的佐餐酒，而 tokutei meishō-shu （特定名称酒）

OPPOSITE PAGE: MAGDA RITTENHOUSE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. THIS PAGE: SEIGO YAMAMURA/AFO/GETTY IMAGES; COLLEEN MINIUK-SPERRY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

对页：水稻种植节（Isobe no Omita）。本页：稻田；一桶清酒和（木制盒状杯）。

Opposite page: Isobe no Omita rice planting festival. This page: Rice paddies; a barrel of sake and masu cups.

Daiginjo sake is the high-end designation, where as much as 50 to 65 percent of the rice kernel is milled away, resulting in a more full-bodied and fragrant variety with a brief aftertaste. Other specialist forms of sake include nigori sake, a coarsely filtered variety created when the unfermented portion of the rice is left in the bottle, which results in a cloudy white coloration. Nama sake is a variety that hasn’t been pasteurized, which results in a distinctive fresh flavor. Taru is a sake that has been stored in cedar tanks after brewing to accent its flavor, whereas koshu is a sake that has been aged for longer than a typical fermentation cycle, which makes a drink that’s heavy, honey-colored and often completely different from other forms of sake.

There is also kijoshu, or dessert sake, created similar to port or sherry by adding more sake to the brewing stages in place of water. Lastly, genshu is an undiluted sake, created when the typical amount of water used during the fermentation process is omitted entirely to create a stronger end result. HISTORY AND TRADITIONS The origins of sake in Japan predate recorded history, with the earliest references to the Japanese use of alcohol recorded in the Book of Wei, a 3rd-century Chinese text. The likely origin of true sake, however, has been placed by scholars in the Nara period of 710 to 794, where the drink took on the characteristics that we know it by today.

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清酒在神道教（Shinto）净化仪式上饮用，或作为祭祀神灵的供品。

Daiginjo（大吟酿）是高端名称，其中50%至65%的米核被研磨掉，由此获得酒体更为饱满，香气更为浓郁，回味短暂的清酒品种。其他特殊类型的清酒包括nigori（浊酒），酒液经粗过滤后，在酒瓶中留下部分未发酵的大米，导致酒色呈浑浊的白色。Nama （生酒）

Sake is consumed during Shinto purification rituals, or is served as an offering to the landscape spirits.

是未经巴氏消毒的清酒品种，拥有独树一帜的清爽口感。Taru（樽酒）而koshu（古酒）则是陈化熟成时间比普通发酵过程更长的清酒品种，令酒色呈深蜜糖色，通常口感与其他类型的清酒有天壤之别。此外还有kijoshu （贵酿酒），即“甘口”清酒，在酿造过程中添加更多的清酒而非水，营造出类似波特酒或雪莉酒的甜美口感。最后，还有genshu （原酒），即未经稀释的清酒，在发酵过程中完全不添加原本应该添加的水的份量，由此获得更为浓重醇厚的口感。

历史与传统清酒在日本的起源可追溯至尚未有历史记载的上古年代，而关于日本人使用酒精的记载，最早见于公元 3 世纪的中国《魏书》。据学者考证，真正意义上的清酒可能的起源在 710 年至 794 年的奈良时期，这种饮品在这一时期逐渐具备如今我们所知的特点。直至 10 世纪之前，清酒酿造一直由政府控制，从10 世纪起，寺庙和神社开始自行酿造清酒，并在之后 500年里成为清酒酿造的新中心。由多闻院主持于1478年至1618年撰写的《多闻院日记》（Tamon-in

Diary），描述了发酵和高温消毒等有迹可循的流程，时至今日依旧是清酒酿造之特色。喝清酒的传统小酒杯名为“choko”（猪口）。从名为“tokkuri”（德利）的加热陶瓷瓶中将清酒倒入“猪口”，小小的酒杯容量能够确保清酒倒入后不会立刻变凉。与斟酒和饮酒相关的礼仪和仪式很多。例如，每个人都不能自斟自饮，而需要宴会上的其他成员为其斟酒。这些关于清酒的许多规则在现代社会变得更为宽松，但在正式场合，例如重大活动或商务宴请时仍需遵守。另一种传统的酒具称为“masu”（枡），这种小木盒是传统的稻米量具，容量恰好为180毫升，是清酒的传统斟酒份量。 “枡”通常放在一个小浅碟上，斟酒时要倒至酒液溢出方才显示出慷慨大器。对于重大场合，例如婚礼或是新年，还会使用形状像浅碟的庆典用酒杯“sakazuki”（盃）来喝清酒。在日本传统的民族宗教神道教中，清酒有许多礼仪用途，主要用于祭祀祖先和向名为“kami”的神灵供奉。清酒在神道教（Shinto）净化仪式上饮用，或作为祭祀“kami”神灵的供品，供奉后的清酒将由供奉者喝掉。这些被当做供品的清酒被称为“omiki”（御神酒）或“miki”（神酒）,通常被视为有利于与神灵和祖先沟通的途径。在第二次世界大战期间，日本神风特攻队的飞行员在执行自杀式飞行任务前会在一种极具仪式感的氛围内饮用清酒。这项仪式被称为“kagami biraki”（镜开仪式），以小锤将装满清酒的木酒桶砸开，用于庆祝婚礼、店铺开业、体育运动开赛或选举胜利，或是神道教节日。装在木酒桶中的清酒被称为“iwai-zake”或“庆典清酒”，所有人都可随意斟饮，以其带来好运。另外一种庆典仪式时饮用的清酒称为“toso”（屠苏），将一种称为“屠苏散”（tososan）的中药粉加入清酒中浸泡过夜。如今，无论是在日本国内，还是远至美洲和澳洲，皆可找到清酒酿造厂。越来越多的酿酒商寻求更为古老，更为传统的酿造方式，市场对品质较高的清酒的需求量也在增加。毫无疑问，被誉为“日本国酒”的清酒在世界各地亦大受欢迎。n

Sake production was controlled by the government until the 10th century, when temples and shrines began to brew their own sakes and became the new centers of sake production for the next 500 years. The Tamon-in Diary text, written by the abbots of the Tamon-in temple from 1478 to 1618, describes the recognizable process of fermentation and pasteurization that still characterizes sake production today. The drink is traditionally served in small cups called choko. The sake is poured into the choko from a heated ceramic flask called a tokkuri, and the small size of the cups prevents the sake from getting cold after pouring. There are numerous protocols and ceremonial forms related to the pouring and consuming of sake. For instance, a person should never pour their own drink, but allow other members of their party to pour for them. Many of these rules around sake have been relaxed in more modern times, but are still observed on formal occasions such as special events or at business meals. Another traditional vessel is the masu, a wooden box traditionally used for measuring rice, which holds exactly 180mL — the traditional serving amount for sake. The masu is often placed on a saucer and then filled to overflowing as a show of generosity. For special events such as weddings or at the new year, ceremonial saucer-like cups known as sakazuki are also used for serving sake. Sake has various ritual uses within Shinto, the traditional ethnic religion of Japan, which is based around propitiating the ancestors and making offerings to landscape spirits known as kami. Sake is consumed during Shinto purification rituals, or is served as an offering to the kami before it is consumed by the worshipper. These offerings of sake are known as omiki or miki, and are believed to facilitate communion and communication with the spirits and ancestors. During World War II, the Japanese kamikaze pilots would consume sake in a ritual context before embarking on their one-way mission. A ritual known as kagami biraki involves breaking open a wooden cask of sake with a mallet to celebrate weddings, store openings, sports or election victories or Shinto festivals. The sake within is designated iwai-zake, or “celebration sake,” and is served freely to all to promote good fortune. Another ritual sake is toso, made by soaking a Chinese powdered medicine called tososan in the beverage over night. Today, there are sake breweries located as far from Japan as the Americas and Australia. More producers are looking into older, more traditional brewing methods, and the market for higher-quality sake has expanded. Clearly, sake, the drink of Japan, is loved throughout the world. n

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AKIHITO YOKOYAMA / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; CWITHE/GETTY IMAGES

是一种酿造后储存于雪松木酒桶中强化醇厚口感的清酒品种，

上图：女孩在种植水稻。下图：神社大门将我们的世界与神灵的世界分隔开来。

AKIHITO YOKOYAMA / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; CWITHE/GETTY IMAGES

Top: Girls planting rice. Bottom: Shinto temple gates divide our world from the spirit world.

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静待您发掘的乐土体验诺唯真最充满喜悦的邮轮，感受为您带来的愉悦之旅。

Your Oasis Awaits Get to know the pleasures of Norwegian’s most joyous ship.

The Haven私人管家和中庭（对页）。 The Haven butler and Courtyard (opposite page).

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华，如画美景，个性化服务。选择诺唯真 The Haven套房，以私密且独家专属的服务宠爱自己。此外，我们还在全新的玺悦楼层新增客房，全船还设立了大量相连的特等客房——一切专为中国乘客设计。客房设施齐备，从长绒浴袍和拖鞋，到宝格丽和爱马仕香皂、洗发水和润肤露，奢华套房用品让您乐享放松身心的惬意时刻。诺唯真The Haven隐藏于“诺唯真喜悦号”12、17与 18层，这里设施齐备，空间宽敞的奢华套房，您可在此乐享礼宾员的个性化服务，并在乘坐游轮的整个旅途中24小时享受私人管家服务。

THE HAVEN：船中之船入住The Haven楼层的宾客只需移步至专属阳光甲板便可享受私密安静的日光浴。从登船到下船、从船上休闲娱乐到晚餐时间，您都将享有优先权。在您专属的船中之船，The Haven专为体验独一无二而设。入住“诺唯真喜悦号”玺悦套房的宾客将乐享VIP体验，面积更大的带阳台特等客房配备奢华套房用品，并提供专属礼宾服务，从船上休闲娱乐到用餐，皆可为您精心安排。玺悦套房专为寻求特别个人服务的家庭和宾客而设，配备专属礼宾休息室，内设私人酒吧，全天提供美食小点。

富有意义的一天：礼宾专享躺在诺唯真Bliss Bed系列的雪白床品中开始您的一天。刚刚冲好的意式浓咖啡醇美扑鼻，将由您的私人管家亲自送入奢华特等客房之中。与其他玺悦楼层的宾客一同前往私人餐厅享用早餐，随后预订一次双人按摩，在其中一间特色餐厅预约晚餐。在The Haven的阳光甲板待上一整天会让您乐而忘返，但内心的冒险精神却在催促您四处逛逛。您的私人管家早已为您挑选适宜的岸上观光线路，并会护送您至下船区。

顺时针顺序从左上角：The Haven套房；滨海漫步； The Haven露天餐厅；海鲜拼盘；The Haven中庭套房。 Clockwise from top left: The Haven Suite; Stroll along the Waterfront; The Haven Outdoor Restaurant; seafood platter; The Haven Courtyard Suite.

观光返回后到独家专属Mandara Spa水疗中心享受放松按摩可让您重新恢复活力，随后精心打扮，与新结识的朋友共享美味佳肴。欣赏一场由获奖演员团队出演的拉斯维加斯式表演秀，结束一天的休闲娱乐活动。您再次躺回奢华亚麻床品之中，伴着海浪的起伏酣然入睡，在美梦中迎接新的一天。n

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顺顺时针从左上角：诺唯真喜悦号；在Haven中庭乐享Veuve Clicquot凯歌贵妇香槟；Haven赌场；Haven景观长廊。 Clockwise from top left: Norwegian Joy; Enjoy Veuve Clicquot at the Haven Courtyard; The Haven Casino; The Haven Observation Lounge.

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uxury. Scenic views. Personal service. Pamper yourself with privacy and exclusivity in The Haven by Norwegian. What’s more, we’re adding accommodations with our new Concierge Level, as well as plenty of connecting staterooms throughout the ship — all designed for Chinese guests. When it’s time to unwind, you’ll enjoy well-appointed accommodations featuring luxurious en suite amenities from plush robes and slippers to Bvlgari and Hermes soaps, shampoos and body lotions. Hidden away at the top of Norwegian Joy is The Haven by Norwegian, home to luxurious, well-appointed and spacious accommodations where you can enjoy the personal service of a concierge and 24-hour butler throughout your entire cruise. THE HAVEN: A SHIP WITHIN A SHIP Privacy and tranquility are just steps away on a sundeck reserved exclusively for guests of The Haven. From embarkation to debarkation, boarding of tenders to shore, onboard entertainment to dining times, you will have priority. In your own ship within a ship, The Haven will make for a unique experience. Guests who stay in the Concierge staterooms aboard Norwegian Joy will enjoy a VIP experience, featuring larger balcony staterooms with luxurious en suite amenities and the services of a dedicated concierge to make arrangements on board, from entertainment to dining. A category for families and guests looking for extra personal service, Concierge staterooms also come with an exclusive Concierge lounge complete with a private bar and refreshments available throughout the day. A DAY WELL SPENT: THE CONCIERGE ADVANTAGE Begin your day between the crisp white sheets of Norwegian’s Bliss Bed collection. You will be met by aromatic scents of fresh espresso delivered by your butler to your luxurious stateroom. Join fellow Concierge guests in a private dining room for breakfast, and then reserve a couple’s massage and make dinner reservations at one of the specialty restaurants. The temptation to lounge by the Haven’s sun deck all day is tempting, but your adventurous spirit precedes you. An excursion on shore has already been selected by your butler who will escort you to the debarkation zone. Return and reenergize with a relaxing massage at the exclusive Mandara Spa, and then dress up and join new friends for a gourmet meal. End the night entertained by a cast of award-winning performers at a Las Vegas–style show. As you collapse back into your luxurious linens, let the ocean waves lull you to sleep as you dream of a new day. n

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Cheers!

On the rocks or in the mix, these spirits bring the fullest flavors.

Jack Daniel’s Quality Tennessee Sour Mash Whiskey

Crown Royal Fine De Luxe Blended Canadian Whisky

Tanqueray London Dry Gin

Bacardi Black Ron Superior Carta Negra Rum

Grey Goose Vodka including Le Citron, La Poire, Le Melon, and L’Orange

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Dewarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s True Scotch 12 Years Old

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Sweet Scents

Enhance your aura with these fine fragrances.

Good Girl Carolina Herrera

1. Miss Dior

Nina Nina Ricci

Lady Million Paco Rabanne

INGRAM IMAGE

4. 70

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Fragrances for him

1. 2.

L.12.12 Blanc Lacoste

Sauvage Dior

INGRAM IMAGE

The Scent Hugo Boss

Invictus Paco Rabanne

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NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

Advertiser Index A Anne Klein C Calvin Klein Cartier Casio

8, Inside Back Cover

4, 5 Back Cover 7

E Emporio Armani

18, 19

F Fossil

26, 27

L Longines M Michael Kors Montblanc

Inside Front Cover, 1

36, 37 35

S Skagen 46, 47 StÃ¼hrling 2, 3 Swarovski 60, 61

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