P&O Globe 2020 by ppigroup

GLOBE where shall we go • 2019-2020

TOP TIPPLES IN TENERIFE — AND ITS NEIGHBOURS JASON MOMOA BRINGS WORLDS TOGETHER CHINESE HERBAL HEALING

Naturally Precious

Sustainable Jewellery of the Caribbean

Please do not remove from your cabin.

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Big Bang Gold Ceramic. Chronograph in 18K King Gold with a ceramic bezel. Structured rubber strap.

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Hublot Boutiques Aruba · Bahamas · Dominican Republic Cozumel · St. Thomas

hublot.com

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Also available at authorized retailers in: Antigua · Aruba · Bahamas · Barbados · Bermuda Cozumel · Curacao · Dominican Republic · Grand Cayman Puerto Rico · Puerto Vallarta · St. Barths · St. Kitts St. Lucia · St. Maarten · St. Thomas · Tortola

10/28/19 11:29 AM

BREITLING BOUTIQUES BARBADOS • GRAND CAYMAN • BAHAMAS AUTHORIZED DEALERS: DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL: ANTIGUA, ARUBA, BARBADOS, BELIZE, COSTA MAYA, COZUMEL, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC, JAMAICA, PUERTO RICO, ST. KITTS • KIRK FREEPORT: GRAND CAYMAN JOHN BULL: NASSAU

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The Breitling Surfer Squad Sally Fitzgibbons Kelly Slater Stephanie Gilmore

LAND

SUPEROCEAN

AIR

SEA

#SQUADONAMISSION

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That’s Beautiful

Exclusively at

Alaska • Antigua • Aruba • Bahamas • Barbados • Belize • Bermuda • Cabo San Lucas • Costa Maya Cozumel • Curaçao • Dominican Republic • Grand Cayman • Grand Turk • Honduras • Jamaica • Key West Orlando • Puer to Rico • Puer to Vallar ta • St. Kitts • St. Lucia • St. Maar ten • St. Thomas • Tortola

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Couture Collection

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S LETTER

Cruising Creates Connections

hen you’ve been involved with the cruise world as long as I have, something interesting happens every time you look at a map: your mind starts filling in the lines between the destinations. In fact, the old ocean liners were originally called ‘liners’ because they followed

an ocean. On nautical charts today, you’ll still see those lines right there on the map. Places that used to be worlds apart are now more connected than ever. Connections between places are what cruising is all about, and what we’ve tried to highlight with the stories in this issue of Globe. Dining on machboos in Dubai or masala dosa in India connects you with the merchants of the Spice Road and the legacy of Sir Francis Drake (‘The Spice Must Flow’, page 58). Visiting the spa for a consultation with a Chinese herbalist links you with thousands of years of holistic traditions (‘Chinese Herbs for Health’, page 70). Walking the streets of Dublin or Valparaiso — or the beaches of Bar Harbor — makes you part of the legacy of literary giants like Swift, Beckett, Joyce and Neruda — and Stephen King (‘Sea of Stories’, page 36). Even the jewellery you buy from Caribbean crafters working with sustainable materials like sea glass, coconut shells or mahogany grants a connection to the hands that crafted it, the land it came from and our whole blue planet (‘Organic Allure’, page 46). It’s nice to be reminded not just that we are all connected, but how we’re connected as well. I hope this issue of Globe inspires you to seek out new mysteries to ponder wherever your travels take you, and whatever new connections you make. Happy Cruising!

Bill Panoff Editor-in-Chief

JULIA KAZIMIROVA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; GIANNI MURATORE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; DOMINICAN REPUBLIC MINISTRY OF TOURISM

a line back and forth, connecting two points that had previously been separated by

8 GLOBE

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Canary Island Wines

Jason Momoa

FACES 24 Whole-Earth Hero

GOOD EATS 58 The Spice Must Flow

EXPRESSIONS 36 Sea of Stories

TOP TIPPLES 64 A Marvellous Searching Wine

Jason Momoa brings the best of many worlds together, on screen and in real life. By Jack Feerick

These novel ports inspired some of the world’s best-loved works of literature. By Charlotte Hulme

MODE 46 Organic Allure

A guide to sustainable jewellery, in the Caribbean and beyond. By Rosalind Cummings-Yeates

WILD WAYS 52 Flowers and Feathers of the Frozen Fjords

A little bit of Tahiti blooms on the Norwegian island of Sør-Hidle. By Alex Darlington

The lure of new flavours has led travellers to distant ports of call for centuries. By Stephen Grasso

From Shakespeare’s time to the present, we’ve celebrated the outstanding vintages of the Canary Islands. By Charlotte Hulme

GOOD LIFE 70 Chinese Herbs for Health

The acupuncturist’s art extends beyond needles and into traditional techniques that rely on the rejuvenating power of plants. By Greg Warwick

ONCE IN A LIFETIME 74 Scandinavian Strange

Bergen is Norway’s most scenic port city — and a hotbed of unusual attractions. By Kirstin Fawcett

JOHN KOPOLOFF/GETTY IMAGES; RAUL MATEOS FOTOGRAFIA/GETTY IMAGES

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If it can survive being ejected from a plane, it can survive near enough anything. Should you treat your Bremont MB watch with respect? Not really. We don’t. We freeze it, we bake it, and we shake it. For hours on end. Then we shoot it out of a plane. Just to make sure it’s as tough as we claim it is. What’s more, it has been assembled and tested at our headquarters in Henley-on-Thames. So don’t worry about looking after a Bremont MB. It can look after itself.

MB 10TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Barbados

GLOBE BILL PANOFF Publisher

LINDA DOUTHAT Associate Publisher/Creative Director GRANT BALFOUR, PHILLIP CRANDALL Managing Editors

JOEL MEADOWS, CHANEL SAMSON Copy Editors CAROLINE GEERTZ, SKIP ANDERSON Art Directors LAURA ROCHE Senior Art Director

Weddings at Sea

TAMMY ROBINSON Ad Services Director ALEXANDRIA GEUBELLE Creative Assistant

KIRSTIN FAWCETT, JACK FEERICK, ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES, ALEX DARLINGTON,

Barcelona

STEPHEN GRASSO, CHARLOTTE HULME, GREG WARWICK Contributing Writers STEPHEN GRASSO Proofreader ALAMY, AWL IMAGES, ESTOCK PHOTO, GETTY IMAGES Contributing Photographers CDWHEATLEY/GETTY IMAGES Cover Image SHARON CHERRY Vice President, Brand Sales and Development BRETT GRADY Director, Global Sales RICHARD COLLINS Regional Sales Manager

IN EVERY ISSUE 8 Editor-in-Chief’s Letter

AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF Chief Operating Officer

By The Numbers

JOSE I. MARTIN Chief Financial Officer LINDA DOUTHAT Senior Vice President, Publishing

The world’s five favourite sweets.

In For A Penny, In For A Pound

PIERO VITALE Senior Vice President, Corporate Strategy & Financial Planning

Best buys and luxurious extravagances of Barcelona, Spain.

Pre/Post: Amsterdam Insider

If you’re in Amsterdam for a day – or a few nights – here’s what you can’t miss.

Finer Things

LINDY LUCAS Director of Broadcast Media PATTI LANKFORD Executive Assistant to the CEO Please address all correspondence to Globe c/o PPI Group Corporate Headquarters, 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 • Fax: (954) 377-7000 Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com • Website: www.ppigroup.com P&O Cruises Carnival House 100 Harbour Parade Southampton SO15 1ST, England

On Board

Phone: 03453 555 111. Calls cost 4p per minute plus your telephone company’s network access charge.

Around The World Athens, Hamburg, Singapore, Dubai, Barbados, Iceland and Gerainger.

Globe is distributed aboard all ships in the P&O Cruises fleet.

88 Destinations

Finer Things

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CHRISTINA HUNTING Vice President, Digital Marketing SOREN DOMLESKY Director of Technology

How to exchange truly romantic ‘I-do’s ... and how to try your hand at blackjack.

Tortola

SHARON CHERRY Vice President, Brand Sales and Development

© 2019 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Globe is published under contract to PPI Group. The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to publications@ppigroup. com. Any prices quoted are subject to change, but correct at press time. Commentary and opinions expressed in Globe are not necessarily those of the publisher or cruise line. P&O Cruises and PPI Group are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Globe.

PETER CAREY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; SHIP’S PHOTOGRAPHER/P&O CRUISES; STEVE HERUD/SIR VICTOR; FINLAY AND CO.

BILL PANOFF CEO/Chairman WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President

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CO L L ECT M O M E N TS.

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#EffyMoments

EffyJewelr y.com FINE

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JE WELRY

E S T.

1979

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BY THE NUMBERS

DRAGON'S BEARD, CHINA These hand-spun confections may be offered by street vendors in Chinatowns from Singapore to Los Angeles, but it's

hard to beat the original in China. The ingredients are simple, but the process is so elaborate, this airy, stuffed sweet was once reserved only for the royal court.

Sweets

PASTÉIS DE BELÉM, LISBON

KEY LIME PIE, MIAMI

CHOCOLATES, BRUGGE

GALAKTOBOUREKO,

The tart that has come to

South Florida's star dish is most

Belgian chocolatiers have

SANTORINI

symbolise Portuguese cooking

often served after a meal of fresh

elevated simple sweets to

Rich custard and flaky pastry

was born in Lisbon's Pastéis

seafood. Tart Key lime juice is

a high art. In the vanguard,

come together in this blissful

de Belém shop, using a secret

blended with condensed milk,

The Chocolate Line has

Mediterranean marriage.

recipe passed down by the

chilled in a Graham-cracker crust

pioneered new approaches

Baklava can be beautiful, but

monks of the Mosteiro dos

and, lo, the gates of Sweets

for two decades, processing

a good galaktoboureko is a

Jerónimos. Every day, the

Heaven are opened! Though

cacao from bean to bar, or

sweet symphony: creamy yet

patissiers create new cream

an invention of Key West, one

bon-bon, or spread, or cocoa

crispy; syrupy yet substantial.

and pastry in 'the Secret Room'

of the region's best slices of

powder — or even as 'chocolate

The name literally means

with that same recipe. They're

Key lime pie can be found

shooters' that enhance the taste

'milky pastry'. On the island of

at their best warm, creamy,

at Miami Beach's legendary

by catapulting a chocolate-

Santorini, Melenio Pastry Shop

crusty and fresh from the oven.

eatery Joe's Stone Crab.

herb mix into your nose.

serves an exemplary one.

TOP: TARA WALTON/GETTY IMAGES. PASTEIS DE BELEM; JOE'S STONE CRAB; CHOCOLATE LINE; MELENIO PASTRY SHOP, SANTORINI

TOP

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Visit Cariloha today and feel the difference of Cariloha’s luxuriously soft sheets, towels, apparel and more... All made of viscose from bamboo! CARIBBEAN • MEXICO • ALASKA • HAWAII • CONTINENTAL U.S. ...AND GROWING!

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IN FOR A PENNY, IN FOR A POUND

Barcelona

For the luxury traveller and the bargain hunter alike, this Spanish city shines.

La Boqueria

FC Barcelona FC Barcelona

EAT

Jaime Beriestain

The Rooftop at Sir Victor

DRINK

VISIT

SHOP

A PENNY:

CAL PEP

CAVA ROSADA

MONTJUÏC MAGIC FOUNTAIN

LA BOQUERIA

Enjoy seasonal ingredients

Cava is Spain’s answer to

A cable car leads up to the

This delicious labyrinth is an

served on plates designed to

Champagne, made using the

Castell de Montjuïc, Olympic

international landmark, with

share with friends. The menu

same traditional method,

Ring and several art museums,

colourful stalls selling everything

changes depending on what’s

aged in the bottle and

but every sunset from 1 March

from steamed prawns to

freshest, from port-drizzled

poured anywhere anyone has

to 6 January, the fountain’s free

sweetcorn, olive oil, baguettes,

sausage to baby chickpea

something to celebrate. Seek

light-and-music show makes the

dried fruit, gourmet chocolates

salad to chicken croquettes.

out rosés made from trepat, a

biggest splash in town.

... in short, everything one would

calpep.com

local Catalonian red grape.

barcelona.cat/en/what-to-do-in-

need for a picnic feast on Las

bcn/magic-fountain/

Ramblas, which is right outside

A POUND:

ENOTECA

THE ROOFTOP AT SIR VICTOR

A POUND:

Chef Paco Pérez builds avant-

Sip wine or cocktails, kefir

FC BARCELONA

garde culinary experiences

smoothies or fresh-pressed

Football fans will have seen

A POUND:

from Mediterranean farm and

juices while soaking up the sun

Camp Nou on televised games,

JAIME BERIESTAIN

mountain flavours, earning two

by the side of a plunge pool and

but Europe’s largest stadium

CONCEPT STORE

Michelin stars with dishes like

enjoying a stunning skyline view

is more than just a field. It’s

Chile-born Jaime Beriestain

espardenyes (sea cucumber) with

of the spires of Gaudí’s famous

home to the FC Barcelona

is an international design icon

marine egg and wild chicken jus.

Sagrada Familia.

museum, displaying five Euro

who uses Barcelona as his home

enotecapacoperez.com/en/

sirhotels.com/en/victor/rooftop/

Cups, player histories and a

base, with a studio handling

Barca Virtual Experience. Tours

projects in Spain, Dubai and New

allow one to go behind the

York; a café (you might have

scenes, walk along the pitch,

seen it in Vogue) and a concept

access the press room and

store offering everything

even enter players-only zones.

from handmade tableware to

fcbarcelona.com/en/club/

signature-scent candles.

facilities/camp-nou/

conceptstore.beriestain.com

the entrance.

Enoteca Wagyu Tataki

boqueria.barcelona

FC BARCELONA; CAL PEP, INGRAM IMAGE, JAIME BERIESTAIN; SIR VICTOR HOTEL; ENOTECA

Cal Pep

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AMBER COVE . ARUBA . BARBADOS . BONAIRE . CABO SAN LUCAS . COZUMEL . CURACAO . GRAND CAYMAN . GRAND TURK GRENADA . JAMAICA . JUNEAU . KETCHIKAN . MAZATLAN . NASSAU . SAN JUAN . SKAGWAY . ST KITTS . ST MAARTEN . ST THOMAS

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PRE/POST

Amsterdam insider If you’re here for a day — or a few nights — check out these hotspots. FLOATING FLOWER MARKET

ANNE FRANK HUIS

The fragrance of the Bloemenmarkt is just as beautiful as the colours arrayed on the houseboat shops of the Singel Canal. There are tulips, of course, but also seeds, snacks and souvenirs.

A red-checked girl’s diary, picture postcards on a wall, a secret bookcase-door — simple items tell a stirring, true story of hope in the face of Nazi oppression. Tickets must be arranged in advance.

RIJKSMUSEUM

Since July 2019, the national museum of the Netherlands has displayed the art world’s largest restoration project for Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, with experts working on the massive canvas in a glass room on the gallery floor. Other exhibits range from Buddhist statues in the Asian Pavilion to 16th-century cannons, clocks and cabinetry.

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

A complex of ultra-modern structures celebrates the genius of Impressionist Vincent Van Gogh, showing more than 200 paintings, 500 drawings and hundreds of personal letters.

An old brewery serves as a multimedia celebration of the history of Holland’s world-famous pilsner (and serves free samples to boot!).

HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE

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LESS STRESS, better life

SKYFINDER COLLECTION Be the pilot of your life with the Skyfinder Collection. Embedded with our unique Natural Frequency Technology®, which resonates with the body, it strengthens your bio-magnetic field to help you feel less stressed and improve your overall wellbeing.

Discover your wellbeing at philipstein.com

ANTIGUA – Diamonds International ARUBA – Diamonds International, Kay’s Fine Jewelry BAHAMAS (Nassau) - DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Kay’s Fine Jewelry BARBADOS – DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Milano Diamond Gallery BELIZE – DI Watch & Design BERMUDA –Diamonds International CABO SAN LUCAS – DI Watch & Design COSTA MAYA – DI Watch & Design COZUMEL – DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Forum Shops CURAÇAO –Freeport Jewelry & Gift Shop, Diamonds International DOMINICAN REPUBLIC- Diamonds International GRAND CAYMAN – Island Time, Diamonds International, GRAND TURK- Diamonds International, Mark Henry Boutique GRENADA – Milano Diamond Gallery JAMAICA (Falmouth) - Philip Stein Boutique JAMAICA (Ocho Rios) - Jewels & Time, Diamonds International JAMAICA (Shoppes of Rose Hall) - Jewels & Time KEY WEST – Diamonds International PUERTO RICO – Blue Diamond, Diamonds International PUERTO VALLARTA – Diamonds International ROATAN –Diamonds International ST. KITTS – Diamonds International, Kay’s Fine Jewelry, Gold Mine ST. LUCIA – Diamonds International ST. MAARTEN –Diamonds International, Majesty Jewelers, Joe’s Jewelry International ST. THOMAS – Philip Stein Boutique, DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Bliss Jewelers, Grand Jewelers TORTOLA –Diamonds International

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I spent the day soaking up the sun. And at night, I shined.

Global Customer Service | Follow us on Facebook Member of the Dufry Group, a Swiss company established in 1865 and operating in over 60 countries. · Antigua & Barbuda · Aruba · Bahamas (Exuma, Freeport & Nassau) · Barbados · Grenada · Honduras (Roatan) · Mexico (Cancun, Cozumel) · · Puerto Rico · Santo Domingo · St. Kitts · St. Lucia · St. Maarten · Turks & Caicos (Grand Turk & Providenciales) · TAX FREE & DUTY FREE

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WWW.COLOMBIANEMERALDS.COM

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FACES

HERO Jason Momoa brings the best of many worlds together, on screen and in real life. By JACK FEERICK

JON KOPALOFF/GETTY IMAGES

WHOLE-EARTH

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ALLSTAR PICTURE LIBRARY/ ANCHOR BAY ENTERTAINMENT /ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

FACES

WAS PROBABLY INEVITABLE, IN HINDSIGHT, that actor Jason Momoa should end up playing a comic-book superhero on screen. For starters, he is almost cartoonishly good-looking. His striking green eyes are set off by angular, arching eyebrows — one bisected by a dramatic scar — that can lower threateningly or sprout streamers of smile lines when his trademark scowl erupts into a devilish grin. And at 6 ft 4, with a massive chest and 19-inch biceps, he certainly has the physique of a superman. If you were to peg Momoa as a superhero, though, it probably wouldn’t be Aquaman. For most of his existence, the DC Comics character has been depicted as blond and clean-cut — a bit of a stiff, even. Jason Momoa, by contrast, made his bones embodying characters who are a little bit rough, a little wild. He’d be more likely to play someone a little more, well, tough. One of those smouldering Marvel antiheroes, perhaps. But Aquaman? That guy talks to fish. Or maybe Momoa’s assumption of the sea king’s mantle isn’t so improbable after all. Born in Hawaii, he might have made a career of studying the sea and its creatures. The tattoos that festoon his chest and arms reflect his Pacific Island heritage; the design echoes his Pasifika family crest, a shark’s tooth, representing the clan’s ‘aumakua, or guardian spirit. And like Aquaman, Momoa devotes himself to protecting the environment. His journey toward the throne of Atlantis, though, has taken some peculiar turns and twists along the way. OUTSIDER ORIGINS

Born in Honolulu in 1979, Joseph Jason Namakaeha Momoa is the son of artists. His mother Coni is a photographer; his father Joseph, a painter. The couple split when Jason was small, and he was raised by his mother and maternal grandmother in Norwalk, Iowa — about as far from the ocean as you could get. He felt like an outsider from a young age. “I grew up where everyone was a wrestler or American football player,” he has said. “I was the skateboarder, an outcast.” Momoa spent summers in Hawaii with his dad, who inspired him to study marine biology after high school. At age 19, working part-time in an Oahu surf shop, he bluffed his way into a TV role. “I went to a casting call for Baywatch Hawaii. It was basically

I grew up where everyone was a wrestler or football player … I was the skateboarder, an outcast.

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ALLSTAR PICTURE LIBRARY/ ANCHOR BAY ENTERTAINMENT /ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

The 2014 film Road to Paloma was Momoa’s debut as director as well as star.

like a cattle call for 1,300 people,” he later admitted. With no

security. But a breakout role proved elusive. To make matters

acting experience, Momoa conspired with a friend to fabricate a

worse, a 2008 altercation in a Hollywood bar ended with Momoa

nonexistent modelling career. “I was like, ‘Yeah, yeah, I’m a big

taking a broken pint glass to the face, leaving him with 140 stitches,

model. I do Gucci and Louis Vuitton,’” he admits now. “We were

extensive reconstructive surgery — and that distinctive scar.

just kind of making it up on the spot.” In 1999, pre-Google, this was enough to land him the part, and Momoa became a series regular. But two seasons of Baywatch didn’t open many doors. After

ROMANTIC LEAD

While working on the TV show Stargate Atlantis, Momoa was

moving to L.A., Momoa spent two years between gigs auditioning,

introduced to actress Lisa Bonet. He was smitten from the

painting, writing a screenplay, even working as a bouncer. He slept

start: “I had fireworks going off inside, man.” The two quickly

in a trailer or on friends’ couches. He never entirely gave up on

connected, and during his enforced hiatus while he healed from

marine biology (“If things had gone wrong, I had a scholarship I

his injuries, they began to build a life and a family, eventually

could have fallen back on, and I would have gone back to school”),

having two children. They set up housekeeping on a 5-acre

but he persisted, landing TV work that provided some financial

spread in Topanga, accessorised in a distinctly non-showbiz where shall we go 27

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FACES

Right: A rising star, from Baywatch Hawaii (top), to Game of Thrones (middle), and Aquaman (bottom).

VCG /GETTY IMAGES

Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s drawn to portrayals of men caught between civilisation and the state of nature.

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style with a 25-foot climbing wall, skateboard ramps and a greenhouse where they grow their own vegetables — a far cry from Momoa’s couch-surfing days. The couple married in 2017. Momoa’s first leading role, as Conan the Barbarian (2011), failed to establish him as a star. But another barbarian turn, as the warrior chieftain Khal Drogo in HBO’s epic fantasy series Game of Thrones, proved his breakthrough. Though his tenure on the show was brief — Drogo was an early casualty on a show notorious for its body count — the character became a fan favourite, and Momoa created a rich, complex performance: “Here’s your lead characters. You’re supposed to think about them one way,” he said at the time. “And you hate them, then you love them, and then they’re killed and it’s a whirlwind of emotion.” Game of Thrones gave Momoa the cash and the clout to pursue intriguing, quirky projects like the TV crime drama The Red Road (2014) and the historical adventure Frontier (2016-2018), which centred on the 18th-century Canadian fur trade. In 2014, he wrote and directed his first feature, The Road to Paloma, with Bonet as his onscreen love interest. As an actor, he’s drawn to portrayals of outlaws, half-breeds, men caught between civilisation and the state of nature: “I AF ARCHIVE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; HBO ALBUM/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; DC ENTERTAINMENT/ENTERTAINMENT PICTURES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

don’t think a lot of people are calling me to play doctors and lawyers, which is fine with me. I can put a suit on, but I don’t really like to.” Physical environment is important to his process. He surrounds himself with props and objects that help him tap into the character. “Some of my favourite movies are [ones] where it looks like f---ing hell to have shot them,” he says. “The rain and the dirt and mud — it makes it easier to act.” EARTH AND WATER

That intense physicality extends to his everyday life. Momoa trains hard to stay big, but he prefers outdoor sport to the grind of the gym. “I get bored, so I do a lot more boxing, surfing, climbing,” he says. “I’ll run up a hill, get some exercise and have some time with my thoughts.” Working and playing out in the elements has made Momoa deeply aware of the need to protect the natural world. “Plastics are killing the planet,” he says, identifying single-use plastic water bottles as one of the worst offenders. His role as Aquaman, he says, has given him a younger fanbase — “I have all these beautiful little kids coming up to me” — and for their sake, “I want to save the planet from single-use plastics.” To combat the problem

[so] I get to set the tone for it.” That includes emphasising

directly, in 2019 he launched his own line of water, Mananalu, in

the character’s role as an environmental crusader.

recyclable aluminium cans. Momoa even went clean-shaven for

And in Aquaman — half-human, half-Atlantean — Jason

the first time in seven years to promote awareness of the issue.

Momoa has found another character with a foot in two worlds,

The heavy use of computer animation makes Aquaman a

at home in neither. He felt like an outcast growing up in

departure from Momoa’s usual physically immersive style of

Iowa, but “I wasn’t really accepted as a Hawaiian” in Oahu,

acting: “I was in a green room for seven months waving my arms

either. When the world has no predefined place for you,

at nothing.” But he’s excited about the chance to put his own

you have to carve out a space for yourself. Jason Momoa has

stamp on an iconic character. “It’s fun to have a level playing

made a career and a family on his own terms, making himself

field,” he says. “There aren’t like four Aquamans before me,

up as he goes along. It’s the performance of a lifetime. where shall we go 29

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FINER THINGS

ABSOLUTELY FASCINATING

Avant garde and fashion-forward, Jane Taylor London’s creations have adorned the heads of the most elite London fashion icons including the Duchess of Cambridge. The highly tailored construction of these bespoke pieces will elevate any outfit — whether you’re attending afternoon tea or the Royal Ascot. Available in lilac, coral, mint or natural tones, this Hydrangea Disc Hat will complete your look with a touch of whimsical elegance. janetaylorlondon.com

TICK TOCK

SUNGLASSES AFTER DARK

The dramatic rounded shape and wide paddle temples of the Daphne sunglasses by Finlay are a most-welcomed callback to 60s glam. Designed in Britain and handcrafted in a workshop in Northern Italy, they are forged with European authenticity and will last a lifetime of wear with scratch-resistant coating. Choose from eight frame colours and make them truly your own when you opt for custom engraving. finlayandco.com

You can’t alter time, but you can alter the face of this timepiece, a feat that might be just as surprising. The Fendi Ishine features a patent-pending mechanism that rotates the 12 gemstones marking each hour, offering three distinct looks. Simply turn the gem-set crown at 3 o’clock and choose from an assortment of topaz colour combinations, like the vibrant blues of the Caribbean Exclusive design pictured. The watch also features a stainless steel case and a mother-of-pearl central zone. fendi.com

BALM IT LIKE BECKHAM

STRAPPING LUXURY

Since 1920, the name Melissinos has been synonymous with stylish sandals. Georgios Melissinos forged the reputation, then handed the firm to his son Stavros — a poet — then his grandson Pantelis, a poet and artist. Along the way, they’ve attracted fashion-conscious customers the likes of Sophia Loren, Barbra Streisand, Queen Sophia of Spain, Jeremy Irons, The Beatles and Jacqueline Onassis. melissinos-sandals-poet.com

On the list of well-groomed, charismatic men, David Beckham has maintained his place at the top since the beginning of his career. Naturally, the next step would be to launch a comprehensive men’s grooming collection to help out all the other men lower on the list — thus, House 99. The brand not only addresses every aspect of the grooming game — hair, face, body, beard — but packs every product with nutrient-dense superfood ingredients that will make you feel good from the outside in. house99.co.uk

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#EffyMoments

EffyJewelr y.com FINE

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JE WELRY

E S T.

1979

10/25/19 11:25 AM

ON BOARD

Dearly Beloved

Celebrate your union at sea.

HETHER YOU’RE starting your journey together or reliving that moment years later, you can do both right here on board.

• P&O Cruises has personal ceremony coordinators to help plan and take you through the process of planning and booking your special day. • Get married at sea during a sea day in the ship’s designated wedding venue. • Exchange ‘I do’s in a romantic ceremony conducted by the captain. • We can take care of your flowers, dining, cake, photography, hair for the big day and much more. • We’re happy to offer one complimentary cabin for every 20 cabins purchased by the wedding party. • We take care of all wedding licence fees and liaison with the ship of your choice.

(Note: Britannia and Iona only offer renewal of vows and commitment ceremonies; all other ships offer weddings as well.)

THE SHIPS PHOTOGRAPHER/P&O CRUISES

Congratulations!

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THE SHIPS PHOTOGRAPHER/P&O CRUISES

where shall we go 33

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ON BOARD

How to play blackjack

Can you beat the dealer? to communicate your next move:

our Monte-Carlo Club Casinos

1) ‘Hit’: Take another card from the

and challenge Lady Luck as the cards flip, the wheel spins

and the chips pile high. With its simple format and exhilarating

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the most popular table games in the world.

their decision, the dealer will draw a second card to reveal their score. If the hand value

HERE’S HOW TO PLAY …

is equal to or less than 16 they must ‘hit’,

To begin you’ll have two cards face up and

for 17 above, they must ‘stand’.

the dealer has one. Numbered cards (1-10) are at face value with jack, queen and king

THREE WAYS TO BEAT THE DEALER:

worth 10 and aces either 1 or 11.

1) You have a value of 21 from your first

of two key decisions. Hand signals are used

without exceeding 21 3) The dealer draws a hand value greater than 21 (known as ‘busted’)

2) ‘Stand’: Take no more cards, signaled

play, it’s easy to see why blackjack is one of

Based on these cards, you can make one

2) Your hand is higher than the dealer’s

two cards and the dealer does not (known as ‘blackjack’)

Winning bets pay even money, with the exception of ‘blackjack’ which pays 3-to-2. Good luck!

BLACKDAY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; INGRAM IMAGE

ET THAT 007 FEELING in

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GOLD MINE

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P&O_Fall19_035_Goldmine.indd 35

hublot.com

Blue ceramic case. In-house manual movement, with a 10-day power reserve.

10/25/19 11:28 AM

EXPRESSIONS

Of the millions of visitors arriving daily at the world’s ports, some might continue their journeys to an exotic beachside destination, or to shops selling local crafts. Restaurants, bars and markets lure in others. However, the ports themselves have intrigued many famous authors, inspiring their readers to search out the havens behind the storylines. From Oscar Wilde witticisms to Pablo Neruda’s impassioned poetry, here are some absorbing snippets about famous writers who penned just beyond the harbour.

Seaof

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MARINO BOCELLI/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

These novel ports inspired some of the world’s best-loved works of literature.

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EXPRESSIONS

HUGO AND POTATO PEELS The year is 1946. The place, Saint Peter Port, Guernsey. Juliet Ashton meanders past house doors with brightly coloured paint. There’s an air of new beginnings fabricating the complex secrets of a society once repressed. This outlines the thread of the 2008 bestseller The Guernsey Literary Potato Peel Pie Society (a novel with a title indeed) that illuminates this charming island sitting snugly close to the French coast. Authors Mary Anne Shaffer and Annie Burrows represented Saint Peter Port delightfully as “one of the most beautiful in the world”. Hardly surprising, given the first appearance of its houses, toggled in restrained glory into hillsides, offset by a thick blanket of airy colour on its clifftops. The novel vividly shapes Guernsey’s nooks and crannies from La Bouvee Farm, Saint Martin, to the smallest consecrated church in the world (a mere 9 feet long, 4.5 feet wide). The Little Chapel stands in Les Vauxbelets Valley. It isn’t difficult to realise why novelist Victor Hugo, exiled to Guernsey in 1855 after Napoleon III’s coup d’état, found this island an inspiration exalting enough to write Toilers of the Sea from his

MANDOLINS AND MOVIE STARS The Greek island of Cephalonia with

“so immense in antiquity that the very

the ports of Sami and Poros, brings

rocks themselves exhale nostalgia and

the visitor back to the Nicolas Cage

the red earth lies stupefied not only by

and Penelope Cruz romance in the

the sun, but by the impossible weight

film adaptation of Captain Corelli’s

of memory”. Sami, quiet now of

Mandolin. Louis de Bernieres set his

mandolins and movie stars (and partly

novel during the Italian and German

reconstructed to appear as it once

occupation of the island during World

did before a severe 1953 earthquake),

War II. He describes Cephalonia as

offers tours to movie settings.

STUDIO CANAL; INGRAM IMAGE. OPPOSITE PAGE: OLA ERICSON/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Hauteville House, at 38 Rue Hauteville.

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DRAGON TATTOOS AND COLOURFUL AUNTS Docking in Stockholm, Swedish-born Stieg

at the Stockholm City Museum, home to

Larsson is another writer whose books

the Millennium Exhibition, allowing for full

inspired Hollywood. Recognise the name

immersion into the mind of Larsson.

Lisbeth Salander, Larsson’s complex titular

While walking the cobblestones of

character? Then you will likely be familiar

Stockholm’s Gamla Stan (Old Town), home

with his Millennium Trilogy of books, The

to the 13th-century Royal Palace, or boating

Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, The Girl Who

around the islets, one could interest younger

Played with Fire and The Girl Who Kicked

travellers in Elsa Beskow, local-born author

the Hornets’ Nest. The Millennium Tour,

and illustrator of children’s books such as

which begins on the island of Södermalm

Tale of the Little Little Old Woman and Aunt

at Bellmansatan, transports visitors to the

Green, Aunt Brown and Aunt Lavender.

home of Larsson’s character Mikael Blomkvist

Beskow’s striking artwork brings her words to

and to Salander’s flat. The Tour terminates

life for the children who read her books.

The island of Södermalm where shall we go 39

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EXPRESSIONS

GULLIVER, ULYSSES AND GODOT Dublin, a UNESCO City of Literature, boasts

Merrion Square. A Wilde quote might still

so many memorials to its many great authors,

inspire: “To live is the rarest thing in the

they’re hard to miss while strolling around

world. Most people exist, that is all.”

wrote Gulliver’s Travels while he was dean of

could not be complete without the life-

St Patrick’s Cathedral in 1725, where he lies

sized bronze statue of James Joyce (b.

buried today. Anglo-Irish Swift, born and raised

1882) located close to Dublin’s centre,

in Dublin, drew on his “savage indignation”

looking as though he is pondering over

at Ireland’s appalling social conditions and

one of his novels — Ulysses, perhaps.

his frustrated hopes in the Irish church and

Playwright George Bernard Shaw (b. 1856)

the Whig Party, all of which seeps into his

stands statuesque outside the National Gallery

satirical writings. His hapless hero Gulliver

of Ireland, appearing predictably thoughtful. It

also visited rather more fantastic ports, such as

could be something to do with The Importance of

Lilliput and Balnibarbi. In Dublin, trace Swift’s

Being Earnest, a Wilde play that Shaw critiqued

literary footsteps to the Cathedral and the

in the Saturday Review. Concluding this list,

monument dedicated to him in Trinity College.

the novelist and playwright Samuel Beckett

Dublin’s public art embodies laughter

Above: James Joyce in Dublin. Opposite page: Bass Harbor Light in Maine.

An Irish walkabout of novelistic discovery

(b. 1906) is memorialised in the Samuel

and life. Tucked into this category is

Beckett Bridge on Sir John Rogerson’s Quay,

poet and playwright Oscar Wilde (b.

spanning the River Liffey. From the middle

1854) whose Memorial Sculpture — a

span, one might recall Beckett’s quote:

collection of three statues — is located in

“You’re on Earth. There’s no cure for that.”

SIMON REDDY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. OPPOSITE PAGE: VISIT MAINE

this proud port. Jonathan Swift (b. 1667)

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SHINING AND SHAWSHANK Across the pond in Portland, Maine, New England, we find the birthplace of an author famed for twisted tales of horror, Stephen King. Renowned for The Shining, turned into a film starring Jack Nicholson; Carrie, adapted with Sissy Spacek; and The Shawshank Redemption, starring Morgan Freeman, King has produced hundreds more spine-chilling sensations. How vibrant Maine, famous for lobster and 5,000 miles of coastline (counting its islands), inspired King is perhaps best considered on a movie tour at Bar Harbor’s Mount Desert Island. King himself now lives in Bangor, Maine, in a somewhat spooky Gothic mansion. His quote “Either get busy living, or get busy dying” could be seen as a visitor’s prompt to continue their journey!

How vibrant Maine, famous for lobster and 5,000 miles of coastline (counting its islands), inspired Stephen King is perhaps best considered on a movie tour at Mount Desert Island. where shall we go 41

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EXPRESSIONS DIMINUTIVE DIVINITY Turning the heat up, Cochin (or Kochi) is the port city of Kerala, a small region of southern India, and the setting of Arundhati Royâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s novel The God of Small Things. Royâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s novel about childhood experiences of fraternal twins and the analysis of love won her the Booker Prize for Fiction in 1997. Kerala has an additional thirteen minor ports, allowing visitors to gain inspiration, like Roy, from busy people watching.

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OPPOSITE PAGE: PETER ADAMS/AWL IMAGES. GIANNI MURATORE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

POEMS OF PASSION If there is now an itch to put pen to paper and

to the Pacific Ocean. His poem ‘Here I Love You”

search out the author hidden deep within,

contains the memorable lines: “Sometimes I get

find further inspiration traversing Chile’s new

up early and even my soul is wet. Far away the sea

Valparaiso Terminal de Pasajeros — gateway to a

sounds and resounds. This is a port. Here I love

port rich with romance lived and written about.

you. Here I love you and the horizon hides you in

The first impressions of the port of Valparaiso

vain. I love you still among these cold things.”

are of booming colour bouncing from the sky,

Trace Neruda’s winding words to Santiago and

the sea and the rainbow-painted houses. Even

La Chascona Museum House in the Bellavista

the translation of the place name is romantic

neighbourhood, built for secret liaisons with his

— ‘Paradise Valley’. This port touches the spirit

mistress. Santiago’s labyrinth of second-hand

with an air of mystique as the secret liaisons of

bookshops is found mainly on Lastarria Street.

people’s poet Pablo Neruda come to light.

Café Literario in Balmaceda Park houses an

Born in 1904, he became one of the most

overwhelming 30,000 books.

influential and romantic poets in the Americas of the 20th century, producing his collection

This journey through a tiny handful of famous

Twenty Love Poems and a Song of Despair at just 19

authors and ports has been an adventure into

years old. Winning the Nobel Prize for Literature

history and culture, love and crime, satire and

in 1971, it could be assumed that Neruda’s

romance. Whether in fact or as fiction, these

prosperous career was influenced by his closeness

literary legacies live on.

Opposite page: Fishing nets at sunset in Cochin. Above: La Chascona, Pablo Neruda’s house in Santiago de Chile where shall we go 43

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MODE

organic allure By ROSALIND CUMMINGS-YEATES

JACK HOLLINGSWORTH/GETTY IMAGES

A guide to sustainable jewellery, in the Caribbean and beyond

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The bounty of the Caribbean Sea adorns necklaces strung with speckled scallop shells, triton horns or the rosy, prized queen conch pearl.

ROM PEARLY SAND BEACHES TO LUSH, flowering

just as appealing rings, earrings and necklaces. The most notable

landscapes, the Caribbean region is filled with natural

native Caribbean gem is the dreamy blue larimar, a volcanic

beauty. Many travellers love to take home jewellery

stone mined in the Dominican Republic and sold on many other

that reminds them of island charm, like pearl-and-

islands. Caribbean amber, also found in the Dominican Republic

aquamarine necklaces or gold bracelets set with hibiscus-coloured

and Haiti, can be coloured gold as well as fluorescent green and

rubies. Although most islands offer a never-ending array of duty-

blue in unique, eco-friendly pieces. Translucent calcite and multi-

free shopping to choose from, the most eco-friendly (and often

coloured agates are other crystals that are mined sustainably in

most distinctive) pieces are handmade from sustainable materials

the region.

found locally. Sustainable jewellery around the Caribbean features materials ranging from the expected to the unusual, from shells

SHELLS, SEA GLASS AND SEEDS

and seeds to volcanic rock.

Perhaps the most common sustainable jewellery are pieces

Jewellery created sustainably does not harm the environment.

created from gleaming seashells. The bounty of the Caribbean

Manufacturing processes can be troublesome in a variety of ways

Sea adorns necklaces strung with speckled scallop shells, triton

beyond leaving a large energy footprint. Sustainable jewellery

horns or the rosy, prized queen conch pearl. Sand dollars, coral,

focuses on handcrafted items created from either natural or

molluscs and bits of coloured sea glass can also form rings,

recycled materials. The Caribbean region supplies an array of

bracelets, barrettes and headbands. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find them strung on

local materials that inspire truly original jewellery for you to both

leather and hand-formed silver cords or chiselled into one-

look good and feel good.

of-a kind treasures. Shells are highly sustainable because of the seafood industry. Creating jewellery from seashells is a decorative

CRYSTALS AND SEMIPRECIOUS STONES

Although diamonds are the highlight of many shopping

alternative to simply discarding them. Bracelets and necklaces fashioned from burnished brown, wild

excursions, crystals and stones that are locally mined at small sites

tamarind seeds are an old-school tradition in Antigua, and other

offer a more sustainable choice. Sparkling quartz crystals can be

islands showcase accessories made with Jobâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tears, a sparkling

found in caves and mountains all over the region and they make

white, teardrop-shaped seed that is often dyed a variety of colours. Dating back five centuries when European explorers brought coconuts with them on their journeys to the Caribbean, the fruit has become a staple of Caribbean life. Islanders drink the water, eat the fruit and use the rock-hard coconut shells to create a popular trend. Instead of trashing the coffee-coloured shells with the fibrous husks, unisex bracelets and rings are designed from them and vegetable-dyed beads are cut out to make colourful necklaces. You can also find purses and satchels covered with or carved from coconut shells. SHE SELLS SEA SHELLS: A seashell necklace or bracelets made of shells, clay beads and seeds (bottom right) can complement amber (left) or blue larimar (top right) from the Dominican Republic, or crafted sea glass (right) from Barbados beaches.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC MINISTRY OF TOURISM. OPPOSITE PAGE: SCHULTHEISS SELECTION GMBH & COKG/GETTY IMAGES; DOMINICAN REPUBLIC MINISTRY OF TOURISM; PANTHER MEDIA GMBH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; FERRYZIEVINGER/GETTY IMAGES

MODE

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MODE

Perhaps the most common sustainable jewellery are pieces created from gleaming seashells. CLAY AND RUBBER

Other plentiful woods like ironwood, rosewood and blue mahoe

Caribbean soil is filled with pockets of red clay and pottery has

are regularly fashioned into jewellery, sometimes accented with

been a tradition passed down through generations. But besides

resins and metals.

pots, plant stands and vessels, clay can also be formed into beads,

Natural resins from plants and trees also make attractive

pendants and bracelets. Pieces polished with a natural brown hue or

accessories. Some designers even press tropical flower petals or

painted with vibrant shades and paired with native stones make clay

leaves into them for a long-lasting piece of Caribbean beauty.

jewellery an eclectic choice for sustainability. Recycled rubber offers

Handwoven fibre jewellery, made from wiry local grasses or even

a surprising take on stylish and sustainable pieces with designers

yarn, are another way to keep it sustainable.

creating cords and bangles studded with semiprecious stones. WOOD, RESINS AND FIBRES

Rich and glossy mahogany wood creates striking furniture, but it also makes standout jewellery. Mahogany trees grow on many Caribbean islands and, for centuries, the wood has been prized for ships, houses and carvings. But now the wood has been over-logged and Caribbean jewellery designers have found inventive ways to feature what was otherwise left behind. Crafting pendants, rings and earrings from discarded mahogany at building sites and wood workshops offers perfectly sustainable options.

PASTEYB/ STOCKIMO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LUXURY IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES; PAULO JOSĂ&#x2030; LIMA GOMES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

BY THE SEASHORE: A seaglass pendant, shell anklet or coconut rings make a wonderful memento of your Caribbean holiday.

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WILD WAYS

A little bit of Tahiti blooms on the Norwegian island of SÃ¸r-Hidle

flowers & feathers frozen fjords By ALEX DARLINGTON

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JACK HINDS - TRAVEL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

of the

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WILD WAYS

HEN MOST PEOPLE PICTURE the

Earth’s extreme northern climes, the

images that come to mind can be pretty

bleak: Jack London’s frozen protagonist

in ‘To Build a Fire’ … emperor penguins

trekking their way across the snow-swept

Antarctic tundra … vast areas of sunless gray

skies over relentless icy white … you get the idea. But those lucky souls who have been to

the Norwegian island of Sør-Hidle entertain

GREEN THUMBS

In 1965, Aasmund was having health problems and needed to get away. The couple bought a farmstead called Mangela on the northern tip of the island. They fell in love with the place and soon after, Asmund’s health began to improve — perhaps a case of the mind-body connection. The couple built a tiny cottage and began to work the land. A long-time lover of botany, Aasmund got

a different image when they think of the

the crazy idea that, with proper care, hard work

North: one of comforting, green pine, banana

and a sound strategy, he could find a way of

and bamboo trees enclosing multicoloured

growing exotic plants, trees and flowers usually

panoramas of breathtaking flowers.

associated with areas much closer to the equator.

Visitors who feast their eyes on this dazzling

He began by planting 3,000 trees — mostly pines

flora can’t believe their eyes. It’s as easy to imagine

and other shade trees. Just as he envisioned,

polar bears basking in the equatorial African sun.

these trees provided warmth and shelter from

But we’re not talking about some hallucinatory mirage. We’re talking about Sør-Hidle’s Flor

the cold winds in the areas they enclosed. Inside this protective perimeter, he planted

og Fjære (“Flower and Feather”), a very

other trees — palm, bamboo and fruit trees.

real and quite awe-inspiring collection of

Eventually he planted a series of gardens

tropical gardens that seem to defy nature.

featuring warm-climate flowers that grew

Sør-Hidle is a half-square-mile island located

(and still grow) in amazing profusion.

in the ancient fjords of Rogoland County,

As time moved on, his son Olav began to

Norway, just a little northeast of the city of

help and finally took over the monumental

Stavanger. It has the distinction of being the

job of keeping the gardens thriving. Olav, it

northernmost palm island in the world.

seems, has the necessary knack and passion

Needless to say, these seemingly miraculous

to continue, and even improved upon

gardens didn’t simply occur naturally within the

the dream his father first envisioned.

Arctic Circle. They wouldn’t exist at all if not for two

Today, there are 11 separate gardens, each with its own theme, and all are downright dreamlike.

Bryn and the succeeding generations of their family.

Some guests compare one of the 11, Eden’s

FLOR & FJÆRE (5)

amazing people named Aasmund and Else Marie

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The vegetation is placed artfully within winding pathways amid serene waterfalls that enhance the beauty of the flowers. Garden, to walking in a fairy tale, as though when

Olav spends each winter planning and designing

you turn the next corner, you might encounter the

the next year’s planting. In the spring the family,

legendary gingerbread house or a sleeping princess.

including Olav’s wife Siri, execute his ideas.

The vegetation — water lily, rose, cactus, bonsai — is placed artfully within winding pathways

this difficult and creative work, Olav

amid serene waterfalls that enhance the beauty

quickly answers: “The rainbow.”

of the flowers. The colours are so vivid and FLOR & FJÆRE (5)

When asked what inspires him to do

varied that words really don’t do them justice. And what’s more, Olav changes the gardens every

In season, the family offers tours of gardens, some of them conducted by Olav’s daughter (Aasmund’s and Else’s granddaughter).

year so that those who revisit the island can, as the

Thus, the seemingly impossible project has

old saying goes, ‘see it again for the first time’.

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WILD WAYS

When asked what inspires him to do this difficult and creative work, Olav quickly answers: “The rainbow.”

CULINARY ATTRACTION

chicken from Stange, a municipality in Hedmark

Even getting to Sør-Hidle is an unforgettable

County, Norway. His lamb comes from Rogaland. His

experience. One arrives at the private island

cheese and yogurt come from Ostergard in Fana.

by boat, passing through the local fjord from

One of the restaurant favourites — probably

Skagenkaien. The fjord is a narrow saltwater

THE favourite — is his famous creamy fish soup,

passage between high cliffs. It was formed over

which seems to be his most talked-about specialty.

hundreds of thousands of years by glacial activity.

It features three kinds of fish, including fresh

Of course, if you’re looking for high-octane

halibut from Sterling in Rykfylke. The fish are

shopping areas, it’s probably clear by now that

blended with root vegetables, dill and chives. And guests say the joys of their dining

Sør-Hidle shouldn’t be your first choice. But

experience far exceed the mere culinary.

don’t for a moment believe that fine dining

Chef Mulder is reputed to be quite

is out of the question. Far from it. The island

the raconteur and regales diners with

boasts one of the finest restaurants anywhere.

humourous stories during the meal.

It’s a buffet overseen by chef-extraordinaire André

Even if you don’t stay for a meal, the

Mulder who gathers his quality ingredients both

island of Sør-Hidle is a place of wonders —

locally and from all over the world. In an effort to

especially in the Scandinavian summer when

maintain a high standard of freshness, he gets his

the flowers and trees are in full bloom.

FLOR & FJÆRE (3)

nightlife, amusement parks and crowded

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GOOD EATS

the Ebers papyrus for their virtues in the process of embalming the dead. In ancient China, the Bencaojing, or Classic Herbal, written by Shen Nong in 2700 B.C.E. detailed the medicinal use of spices; and by the 1st century C.E., the Romans were using spices for medicine, cosmetics and, of course, cooking. An ancient Roman cookbook called Apicius de re Coquinaria describes the use of spices in pear custard and roast chicken dishes, and made much use of black peppercorns. The manuscript was copied by scribes throughout medieval Europe and was printed several times during the Renaissance. SEASONED TRAVELS

The Spice Must Flow

The lure of new flavours has led travellers to distant ports of call for centuries. By STEPHEN GRASSO

only grew in the Moluccas, the

spices has shaped

mountainous â&#x20AC;&#x153;Spice Islandsâ&#x20AC;?

the course of

between Sulawesi and New

civilisation in some

Guinea. Early trading routes

surprising ways. It may seem

brought these along with

strange to a modern reader,

other rare spices from Sri

accustomed to a well-stocked

Lanka into China and through

spice rack easily acquired at

South and Central Asia, where

minimal cost. There was a time

they eventually connected

when everyday spices such as

up with other trading routes

nutmeg were, for most chefs,

in the Middle East that

exotic treasures from faraway

had links into Europe.

places that were worth their weight in gold.

In 130 B.C.E., the Han Dynasty in China officially

In ancient Egypt, the use

opened trade with the West

of spices such as cinnamon

via the Silk Road, a network

and cassia was recorded in

of strategically located

TOMEKBUDUJEDOMEK/GETTY IMAGES

Spices like cloves and nutmeg he epic quest for

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O XXXX

GOOD EATS

Cinnamon was said to be guarded by a mythical bird called a cinnamologus that made its nests out of cinnamon sticks high on perilous cliffs in Arabia.

trading posts in cities such as Antioch in present-day Turkey and Palmyra in the Syrian desert, with routes through Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan and Mongolia. In 80 B.C.E., the city of Alexandria in Egypt was bequeathed to the Romans by Ptolemy XI, and soon became the greatest commercial centre of the world. Not only commodities such as spices and silk were exchanged, but also language, culture, religious beliefs and philosophy. Chinese inventions such as paper and gunpowder made their way along the spice routes to Western Europe. Many tall tales became attached to spices over the centuries, invented to add a sense of mystery — and to justify After the decline of the Roman Empire,

Herodotus, writing in the 5th century

local powers took control of the spice

B.C.E., described the spice cassia growing

routes and travel became more difficult

in a lake “infested by winged creatures

due to neglect of the old Roman roads,

modern-day Turkey, Aleppo in Syria and

like bats, which screeched alarmingly

as well as conflict between Muslim and

Alexandria in Egypt. Venetian merchants

and were very pugnacious”. The related

Christian nations. For several centuries

became wealthy and powerful, controlling

spice cinnamon was said to be guarded

during the Middle Ages, access to spices

the spice trade from the 11th century

by a mythical bird called a cinnamologus

throughout Europe became difficult.

through the 15th century. In 1453,

that made its nests out of cinnamon

However, as a result of the Crusades, many

however, the Ottoman Empire conquered

sticks high on perilous cliffs in Arabia. It

Europeans acquired a renewed taste for

Constantinople and began to charge huge

was harvested by leaving large pieces of

Middle Eastern cuisine, and spices were in

taxes on all goods bound for the West.

ox meat for the birds to find and carry

demand once again. Local tariffs and taxes

to their fragile nests, which would then

along the spice roads made their cost soar.

crash to the ground from the weight of

Over a period of time, Venice rose

SPICE BY SEA

It was this disruption to spice access,

the meat so that they could be collected.

to prominence as a trade hub for

combined with new advances in

Peppercorns were believed to be protected

spices entering the European market.

navigation, that led European

by venomous snakes that had to be

Its location in the Mediterranean put

governments to invest in exploring

driven away by fire, which supposedly

it within reach of spice routes passing

alternative routes to India and

gave them their blackened colouring.

through cities such as Constantinople in

the Far East. In 1492, Christopher

SEKSAK KERDKANNO/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES

often-exorbitant prices. The historian

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GOOD EATS

DISHES OF THE SPICE ROAD Many dishes have been shaped by the spice route, such as machboos, a rice dish similar to the Indian biryani, and made with black pepper, cloves, cardamom, saffron, cinnamon, black lime, bay leaves and nutmeg. It’s the national dish of Kuwait, Qatar and Bahrain, and is also popular in Saudi Arabia and the UAE. You can find it being served alongside laban, a cooling buttermilk drink flavoured with rosewater, saffron or cardamom. Israeli coffee is also popular throughout the Middle East, characteristically

Chicken biryani served with tomato yogurt raita

spiced with cardamom. Columbus set out to find India and

the 16th century, but other European

dish from Karnataka in south

its peppercorn producers on behalf

powers quickly began to compete.

India that is seasoned with

of Spain but accidentally discovered

The English sea captain Sir Francis

turmeric, mustard seeds, fried

the Americas instead. So, because of

Drake set out on a voyage around the

lentils, peanuts, curry leaves,

this, he called the indigenous people

world in The Golden Hinde in 1577. He

chilies and lemon juice.

he discovered ‘Indians’, and the spicy

passed through the Strait of Magellan

capsicums that grew there ‘peppers’.

and found his way to the Spice Islands,

The dosa is a South Indian delicacy known to exist since

In 1497, the Portuguese explorer Vasco

returning to Plymouth with a cargo of

the 5th century. It’s a thin, flat

da Gama became the first European to

nutmeg in 1580. By the 17th century,

piece of layered rice batter

round the Cape of Good Hope at the

the Dutch East India Company and

that has been fermented then

southern tip of Africa, and then sailed the

British East India Company provided

cooked similar to a crepe. There

Indian Ocean to Calicut in south India.

independent access to spices at long

are countless variations, such

Finally, Europeans had direct access to

last. Spices were also planted in the

as the masala dosa made with

Indian spices without needing to rely on

hotter climate of the New World, and

mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds,

traders from the Middle East and their

in time, availability and ease of access

turmeric, potatoes, onion, green

costly price mark-ups. The Portuguese

caused the price of spices to drop

chillies and curry leaves.

dominated the African sea route by

to the affordable levels of today.

JULIA KAZIMIROVA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Chitranna is another rice

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TOP TIPPLES

Almost 970 million square feet are used for vine plantations on the Canaries, where wine has been produced for more than 500 years. In the 15th century, millions of litres of wine were exported from these once-secret islands. The Canaries were lucky not only in position and temperature but also the fieriest of their resources — volcanoes, seven in all, including active, dormant and extinct. Volcanic soil, rich in nutrients and bearing a spongy, water-retaining insulation layer, has fostered indigenous grape varieties, with barely a chardonnay or cabernet vine in sight. Additionally, the wrath of the phylloxera plague (caused by an aphid living on

From Shakespeare’s time to the present, we’ve celebrated the outstanding vintages of the Canary Islands. By CHARLOTTE HULME

vine) never reached the Canary Islands, which meant classic vines continued to prosper in the high altitudes and volcanic eruptions, especially in the early 18th century. MALVASIA AND MOSCATEL White grapes are dominant here, with the most popular varietal being malvasia, with its aromatic intensity, nutty

flavours and occasional amed ‘the Fortunate Islands’ by the Greeks

chimes of acidity. Despite its

due to their winterless temperatures, Spain’s

prominence in Italy, malvasia

Canary Islands are richly diverse, combining

has substantial roots in the

dazzling blue coastlines, jungle expanses

Canary Islands, popular

and volcanic deserts. The Canaries also have much to

since the 15th century.

offer the discerning diner, paired with wines of reputable

King Charles II of England,

history and profound respect. Potential Canary

Robert Louis Stevenson and

connoisseurs may wish to enlist the local knowledge

Lord Byron were among

of a proud sommelier, of which there are many.

those who relished it.

ABARNARDVOICE/STOCKIMO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A Marvellous Searching Wine

and eating the roots of the

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TOP TIPPLES the Bodegas El Grifo situated near the town

which give a palate-warming mineral

sweet white wine that once famously seduced

of San Bartolome. Here, one can cultivate a

intensity to the flavour. The wine Algala

the seducer himself. William Shakespeare,

taste for the 200-year-old Muscat grape, by

Altitude 1318 is worth a sample. While

whose passionate words have launched many

sampling the special edition ‘Canary’ wine

it is a more common grape, listan negro

a romance, alludes to the grape in Henry IV,

that passes through several fermentation

still boasts fruity flavours of red cherry,

as innkeeper Mistress Nell Quickly chimes

processes. A tour of Los Bermejos, at

strawberry and banana, which partner

“but, i’faith you have drunk too much

the foot of the Juan Bello volcano, offers

deliciously with hints of spice and smoke.

Malvasia produces a rich and notably

canaries, and that’s a marvellous searching wine, and it perfumes the blood ere one can say: what’s this?” This reference was, in all probability, born from regular exports of the wine to England in the 16th century. For the palate that desires sweeter notes, all islands grow the Muscat grape, with

Considered an ‘ancient vine’, the grape is used in dessert wine owing to its pronounced rose and orange blossom aromas.

the Muscat of Alexandria varietal, which is used in most Spanish moscatel, growing

its ‘essence of the volcano’ wine and

The age-old sherries here date back to

in abundance. Considered an ‘ancient

a terrace seat on which to savour it.

1100 B.C.E and, on an island brimming

vine,’ the grape is used in dessert wine

with Macaronesian flora and pine forests, WINE … WITH A BLUSH

the high acidity marmajuelo grape grows

blossom aromas. Seek out bottles of aged

If traversing the undulating terrain of

yellow-skinned, with exotic aromas of fig

moscatel, which can date back to 1900,

Gran Canaria, visit one of the high-altitude

and palm leaf. Although Gran Canaria is

found on sale in more obscure outlets.

vineyards — Bodegas Bentayga is an idyllic

its principal abode, marmajuelo can also

venue, producing wine since 1999, from

be spotted in Tenerife’s Ycoden-Daute-

the grapes listan blanco and listan negro,

Isora and Tacoronte-Acentego regions.

On Lanzarote, where the malvasia grapes dominate the vineyards, wander to

Las Palmas vineyards

RAUL MATEOS FOTOGRAFIA/GETTY IMAGES

because of its pronounced rose and orange

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TOP TIPPLES

Wine has been expertly produced here for more than 500 years. Bodega Monje’s cellar. Below: Bodega Suertes Del Marqués 7 Fuentes wine

Canary Islands, lending itself to around 80

The vines and wines of the Canary

slopes of Pico del Teide, Spain’s tallest

to 85 percent of wine production. Once

Islands will twist any wine aficionados’

mountain. The Tacoronte-Acentejo

thought to be an island native, negramoll

heads with their years of complex

showcases a scope of grapes, with red and

was found in DNA studies to be identical

growing. Throw other grape varieties

white prospering in the vicinity. Keep a look

to mollar, an old variety from Andalucia.

like forastera, albillo and tintilla into

out for the lesser-known vijariego negro grape.

The dark-skinned grape, aged in old

the mix, and return visits beckon.

Grown in small quantities, it is frequently

wooden casks, booms with flavours of

blended with the listan negro, creating a

candied fruits, toffee and molasses — a

(Tenerife, Gran Canaria, La Palma,

rarity with its fig and blackberry flavourings.

tasteful marriage with Madeira’s unique

Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, La Gomera

Visit family-run Suertes del Marqués for

tastes of roast nuts, caramel and coffee!

and El Hierro), this archipelago includes

their 7 Fuentes range, championing listan

Beyond the seven main Canary Islands

Verdelho grapes, also widely planted on

smaller islands like La Graciosa, Roque

negro and tintilla grapes, and Bodegas

the rugged terrain of Lanzarote and Gran

del Este, Isla de Lobos, Alegranza and

Monje on the north of the island, where

Canaria, are another of the Canaries’

there is a ‘wine and sex’ experience! Visitors

classic sources of Madeira wine.

are invited to enjoy wine tasting where

The less well-known island El Hierro,

Montana Clara. With old vines, mineralrich soil and mountain elevations, they will continue producing

the participant is proposed “an intelligent

the smallest and farthest south-west

quaffable wines for many more

consumption of wine, in an original and

of the Canaries, has red andisol soils

years, barring climate complications.

fun way to enjoy it with music, scenic

and microclimates from trade winds.

art, eroticism….” Better to check first!

El Hierro’s vines, positioned up to

The sweet ‘Canary’ adored in Elizabethan England by aristocrats

600 metres above sea level, give

(and affectionately known as

MADEIRA AND MORE

dominance to the vijariego negro

‘Malmsey’ since the 18th century)

On the subject of red, fortified dry

and baboso negro grapes. A visit to

is making a comeback. With

wines, Madeira leads the way (here as

the Tanajara Winery, started by

online wine purchases to enjoy

in Portugal) with plantings of negramoll,

English cultivator John Hill in

at home, these Fortunate Isles

also known as tinta negra. This grape has

the 16th century, would be top

wines will continue to spread a

been deemed the workhouse grape of the

of the list for wine historians.

sipper’s satisfaction near and far.

BODEGAS MONJE; BODEGA SUERTES DEL MARQUÉS

Tenerife vineyards span the volcanic

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GOOD LIFE

Chinese Herbs for Health

By GREG WARWICK

veryone knows that acupuncture

their digestion. But Chinese medicine also

involves needles — except, of

has more nuanced ways to understand

course, when it doesn’t. In fact,

a person’s constitution. I’ll also want to

some of the greatest benefits from

know about their level of thirst, or if they

Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) have

sweat too much, or not at all. I’ll also

nothing to do with needles and everything

feel their pulse and listen to the quality

to do with a knowledge of healing plants

of their voice to gain an understanding

that goes back centuries. Professional

of the symptoms that they have and the

acupuncturists are also trained in herbalism,

underlying causes of these symptoms.”

able to diagnose conditions holistically

For example, when a healthy, muscular

and devise effective blends of plants that

person comes in complaining of his

treat the symptoms and their source — or

face turning bright red and bumpy after

what TCM doctors call ‘root and branch’.

having a few drinks during a late business

By bringing a patient’s whole body back

meeting or during especially stressful

into balance, these herbal blends can

situations at work. He or she might

treat conditions ranging from stress and

have a gut feeling that the stress, the

insomnia to chronic pain and psoriasis.

redness and the bumps are connected, but not know how or why … then,

A COMFORTING CONSULTATION

after hearing about Chinese herbalism,

Visiting a trained TCM specialist can

decides to make an appointment.

“When a patient comes in for a herbal

“I diagnose a patient by understanding their ‘patterns of disharmony’ according

medicine consultation, I’ll have a good

to the perspective of Chinese medicine,”

look at their skin,” says Antonia Balfour,

Balfour explains. “For the patient with

a licensed acupuncturist and founder

rosacea, sometimes redness will be

of Yin Yang Dermatology. “I’ll also

flushing — it comes and goes. Different

look at the tongue, which gives a good

herbs are used for flushing versus those

representation of someone’s overall

used for someone with permanent, deep

health. Colour is very important in

redness on their cheeks and nose.”

choosing herbs to treat someone’s skin. “I’ll ask a ton of questions — many

Also different patients will get different herbal mixtures — blending anywhere

which may seem totally unrelated to the

from 12 to 18 different natural ingredients,

reason they’ve come in. It’s important

based on formulas that were perfected

to know fundamental things about a

over hundreds or even thousands of

patient — like their sleep patterns and

years. Those formulas, blending herbs

VIEW STOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

be a surprising experience for some.

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The acupuncturistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art extends beyond needles and into traditional techniques that rely on the rejuvenating power of plants.

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GOOD LIFE

Different patients will get different herbal mixtures — blending anywhere from 12 to 18 different natural ingredients, based on formulas that were perfected over hundreds or even thousands of years.

Balfour says that one of her teachers

form the foundation for treatment. But

would compare that difference to two kinds

each blend is further refined to hone

of map: a topographical map and a street

in on specific symptoms and unique

map. A topographical map of England

aspects of a person’s health profile.

might show you where you’ll encounter a

“No two people will be prescribed

lush forest, where the hills become steep

the same blend of herbs,” Balfour says.

and where the River Itchen runs out of the

“Every few weeks, I’ll change the herbs

South Downs National Park. A street map,

in a patient’s blend. The herbs evolve

on the other hand, will show you the most

and change as their condition changes.

direct way to drive from Southampton to

“I start by treating the most acute

Eastleigh Station on the A335. Both are

symptoms first, or else I’ll often begin by

correct and accurate maps of the area,

treating the digestive system first — that

neither one contradicts the other, but each

way they’ll be able to absorb the nutrients

is looking from a different perspective.

and healing properties of the herbs.”

“TCM looks at and understands the topographic map, whereas Western

TWO MAPS OF THE SAME TERRITORY

medicine uses a road map,” she explains.

The fact that these blended medicines

“We describe things like qi or vital life

will change depending on who’s taking

force energy, and diagnose a patient

them — and even when they’re being

in terms of yin and yang. These terms

taken — points up the underlying

don’t exist in Western medicine. So

difference between TCM and familiar

it’s important to be clear that Chinese

Western medicine. Both use observation

medicine looks at diagnosis and treatment

and logic to diagnose conditions, and

through a completely different lens.”

both are based on scientific trial and

That different lens can be especially

error. But they’re looking at the patient’s

effective in treating stress-related syndromes

health needs in different ways.

that affect many body systems at once.

SOME OF THE CONDITIONS BEST TREATED BY CHINESE HERBALISM INCLUDE:

• Autoimmune conditions • Allergies • Asthma and other respiratory disorders • Eczema, acne, psoriasis and other types of dermatitis • Gastrointestinal disorders • Women’s health concerns HERB BLENDS

Herbal blends can be quite potent, using extracts of many different plants. Some of the commonly used ingredients include: • Astragalus • Cinnamon • Fenugreek • Forsythia • Ginger • Ginkgo biloba • Ginseng • Gotu kola

• Honeysuckle • Kelp • Liquorice • Red dates • Rose • Schisandra • Tree peony • Turmeric

Herbal blends can be taken as capsules, liquid tinctures, creams or strong-tasting teas, each form with its own way to bring the body’s systems back into balance.

LOOK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

known empirically to work well together,

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ONCE IN A LIFETIME

Scandinavian Strange Bergen is Norway’s most scenic port city — and a hotbed of unusual attractions.

orwegian folktales

typically humble affairs

tell of mischievous

— but the Tubakuba, a

trolls who roam

cliffside cabin just outside

the country’s misty

the city, is no ordinary

mountains — and Norway’s

escape. Crafted from bent

second-largest city, Bergen,

wooden scraps, a vortex-

is considered the gateway

like tunnel entrance leads

to fjord country. But this

as many as five overnight

coastal getaway’s quirkiness

guests into a minimalist

extends far beyond myth:

glass-and-wood guesthouse.

In addition to legendary

Students from the Bergen

creatures of yore (well,

School of Architecture

numerous statues of them,

designed Tubakuba

anyway), Bergen is home to a

(named for its tuba-like

modernist architectural oddity,

appearance) to encourage

multiple niche museums,

outdoor recreation among

and perhaps the world’s most

children; it’s easily reached

QUEST FOR WELLNESS

to the early 15th century and

delicious holiday attraction.

via public transportation and

Bergen was once a hotbed

only closed for good in 1946

is free to book on a nightly

for leprosy; plagued with

after its last two patients died.

INTO THE OUTSIDE

basis on Bergen’s municipality

the largest concentration of

Friluflsliv, or ‘open-air

website. While reserving,

patients in Europe, the city

the St. Jørgens building

living’, is an intrinsic facet

keep in mind that there’s a

maintained three hospitals for

complex into the St. George’s

of Norwegian life, and city-

wood-burning stove inside but

the disease’s treatment between

Leprosy Museum, or

dwellers regularly escape

no electricity, running water

1850 and 1900. The oldest

‘Lepramuseet’. With relatively

to hyttes, or tiny cottages in

or bathroom — roughing it

among them, St. Jørgen’s

untouched patient rooms, it’s

the countryside. Hyttes are

is part of the adventure.

Hospital, traces its roots back

considered to be one of the

In 1970, Bergen transformed

GUILLERMO AVELLO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

By KIRSTIN FAWCETT

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Tubakuba welcomes guests to natural living.

(Today, leprosy is better

cultural heritage — and yarn

known in many countries as

geeks can pay homage to the

‘Hansen’s disease’.) Outside

nation’s long-lived knitwear

evolution, commemorate

the museum, a medicinal

industry at the Museum of

lives lost and celebrate

herb garden perfumes the

Norwegian Knitting Industry,

medical breakthroughs

air with its fragrance.

housed inside a historic textile

best-preserved leprosy hospitals in all of Europe. Displays trace the disease’s historical

made by Norwegians like

mill-turned-heritage site. The

Gerhard Armauer Hansen,

PURLS OF GREAT PRICE

Salhus Tricotagefabrik factory

who in 1873 discovered the

Norwegian jumpers are

jumpstarted Norway’s industrial

bacteria that causes leprosy.

synonymous with the country’s

sector during the 19th century where shall we go 75

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Clockwise from above: The delicious gingerbread town, Pepperkakebyen; the compelling Leprosy Museum; and the cosy Museum of Norwegian Knitting Industry

with knitting machines

1989. Travelling with kids?

by visiting Pepperkakebyen,

RADIO RESISTANCE

considered revolutionary at

On the last Sunday of the

a massive edible display

Tucked inside one of the

the time. Today, museum

month, you can catch both a

that’s billed as ‘the world’s

bright wooden buildings on

guides walk visitors through the

crafts workshop and a guided

largest gingerbread

Bergen’s historic Bryggen

factory’s original production

tour complete with a real-

town’. Townspeople

wharf is Norway’s tiniest

process, showing them how

live sheep named Bændik.

have collaborated on the

museum, the Theta Museum.

seasonal project since 1991,

What the single-room display

sheep’s wool was once carded, spun, wound, knitted and

BERGEN BY BISCUIT

contributing miniature homes,

lacks in space though, it makes

stitched into garments. The

Between the festive ornamental

stores, landmarks, cars and

up for in history: During

fruits of these demonstrations

lights and freshly fallen snow,

boats, and even a working

World War II, it served as

— snuggly socks and scarves

you’ll be hard-pressed not to

Ferris wheel made from

headquarters for a courageous

— can be purchased in the

feel the holiday spirit while

home-baked molasses biscuits.

group of young partisans who

museum’s gift shop. Rotating

visiting Bergen during the

Keep in mind, though, that

called themselves the Theta

exhibitions and films add to

Christmas, or Jul, season.

Pepperkakebyen is only meant

Group of the Resistance

the experience by tracing

Feast on traditional holiday

to be eye-candy; refrain from

Movement. From 1940

the factory’s history from

fare like pinnekjøtt (lamb ribs)

nibbling bits of village and sate

to 1942, its members hid

its early days in 1859 until

and ribbe (roasted pork belly),

your sweet tooth at the city’s

inside the secluded room,

production finally ceased in

then get hungry for dessert

Christmas market instead.

radioing messages to the

KRISTOFFER B. FÅRSTENBERG/BERGEN TOURIST BOARD-VISITBERGEN.COM; REGIN HJERTHOLM/BERGEN CITY MUSEUM; TOVE LISE MOSSESTAD/THE NORWEGIAN KNITTING INDUSTRY MUSEUM

ONCE IN A LIFETIME

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Clockwise from above: Edvard Grieg’s home, Troldhaugen; a lively performance at Troldsalen; and the infamous German battleship Tirpitz in a Norwegian fjord, 1943

exiled Norwegian government

TUNEFUL TROLLS

‘troll knoll’ in English.

is Grieg’s composition hut,

in England. They shared

Just outside Bergen is the

Constructed in 1885, the

where he once sought quiet

German navy ship locations

Victorian villa where 19th-

home and its surroundings

inspiration; not far from

and are even said to have

century composer Edvard

were transformed into a

there, a sunken, turf-roof

successfully helped sink the

Grieg spent his summers.

cultural site in the decades

performance hall, Troldsalen,

infamous battleship Tirpitz.

Grieg is remembered for

following Grieg’s 1907 death.

keeps the musician’s memory

The Germans discovered

writing orchestral numbers

Explore the main villa, which

alive with regular concerts.

and raided the headquarters

like ‘In the Hall of the

is filled with memorabilia like

Grieg, himself, was so attached

in 1942, but in the 1980s a

Mountain King’, a tune that

Grieg’s Steinway piano, and

to Troldhaugen — a home he

group helmed by former

conjures tiptoeing through a

then the adjacent museum

dubbed “his best opus so far”—

Thetas helped restore the

troll’s castle — and fittingly,

before taking a stroll around

that he’s even buried in a tomb

once-vital hideout to its

the musician named his

the grounds. Perched beside

on the mountainside property

wartime appearance.

estate ‘Troldhaugen’, or

a nearby lake down the hill

alongside his wife, Nina.

BERGEN TOURIST BOARD / DAG FOSSE – VISITBERGEN.COM (2); SUEDDEUTSCHE ZEITUNG PHOTO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

ONCE IN A LIFETIME

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captivating color and designs exclusively found at

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AROUND THE WORLD

What to do

in Athens, Hamburg, Singapore, Dubai, Barbados, Iceland and Geiranger. ATHENS PARTHENON

MATTEO COLOMBO/GETTY IMAGES

The city of Athens was dedicated to the goddess Athena, and the temple built in her honour — the majestic Parthenon — has stood for more than 2,000 years. Climb the steep slopes up to the Acropolis and see the rows of white marble columns that have become a national symbol of Greece. Or, view the building from comfortable vantage points throughout the city.

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AROUND THE WORLD

HAMBURG MINIATUR WUNDERLAND

One can see the whole world within one building in Hamburg, as long as you’re prepared to think small. Miniatur Wunderland is the dream of the Braun twins, who set out 19 years ago to create the largest model train-set ever seen. They’ve laid out over 10km of track in 7,000 square metres of space, where more than 1,040 toy trains weave through detailed replicas of Venice, Switzerland, France, the U.S. and even a fictional city, Knuffingen, with its own airport. Six more sections are on the way, including Great Britain and Monaco complete with Formula-1 racetrack.

SINGAPORE RAFFLES’ LONG BAR

The Singapore sling was born here, in this grand hotel in one of the world’s last city-states. Singapore has always been a place where cultures mix: Chinese, Malaysian, Tamil and British influences combine just like the gin, cherry heering, Cointreau, Benedictine, Sarawak pineapple juice, lime juice and grenadine shaken until foamy and served chilled and sweet. The food in Singapore is fantastic — and this drink is rightfully world famous.

Dubai, the sparkling gem of the Emirates, is ultra-modern and sophisticated in its style, but has never forgotten how to have fun the old-fashioned way. If sand-skiing isn’t your thing, try an afternoon learning camel-back riding the Bedouin way or simply enjoy a Bedouin barbecue with traditional delicacies and entertainment as the moon rises over the desert.

MINIATUR-WUNDERLAND; RAFFLES HOTEL SINGAPORE; DUBAI TOURISM

DUBAI CAMEL EXPLORATION

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2018

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AROUND THE WORLD

BARBADOS

SNORKELING For sea turtles, the seaside holiday never ends. Maybe that’s why they’re so relaxing to be around. See if you can’t learn a thing or two about stress relief by snorkeling off the west coast of Barbados, where giant leatherbacks, sturdy loggerheads and even rare green and hawksbill sea turtles glide through the warm Caribbean waters, teaching the rest of us how to go with the flow.

ICELAND BLUE LAGOON

GEIRANGER FJORD PICNIC

This close to the Arctic Circle, the warmer months become a celebration not just for the people but for nature itself. The steep-sided fjords, carved by glaciers eons ago, create stunning lookout points, not to mention dizzying drops for waterfalls with names like ‘the Bridal Veil’ and ‘the Suitor’. Townsfolk make their own unique sweet-and-savoury Fjordnær chocolates — with lively flavours like olive oil and sea salt, aquavit, apricot and Norwegian brown cheese. They might sound strange, but make for an outstanding afternoon nibble outdoors.

CLOCKWISE TOP LEFT: PETER CAREY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; BLUE LAGOON; INNOVASJON NORGE/VISITNORWAY.COM

The water is geothermally heated and the mineralrich mud underneath is a stark, silica white. Together, they create a wondrous environment for well-being — soothing the nerves, nurturing the skin and thrilling the eyes.

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10/25/19 12:32 PM

ADVERTISER INDEX A

Alex and Ani

John Hardy

Back Cover

BB’s Crabback Caribbean Restaurant Breitling Bremont Watch Company

83 2, 3 11

Kabana Kay’s Fine Jewelry

Inside Back Cover 65, 87

M C

Cariloha Colombian Emeralds International

17 22, 23

Majesty Jewelers Mark Henry Alexandrite Jewelry Collection Milano Diamond Gallery

81 13 19, 57, 63, 79

Del Sol Diamonds International

61 4, 5, 9, 44, 45, 69

Philip Stein

R E

Effy Jewelry

14, 15, 31

Royal Jewelry The Royal Shop

67 73

Gems & Jewels Gingerlily Gold Mine Jewelers Goldfinger Jewelry

85 86 35 77

Sunseakers

TAG Heuer Tortola Pier Park

6, 7 59

Hublot

Inside Front Cover, 1 The port shopping programme is operated by PPI Group and merchants participating in this programme have paid a promotional fee to PPI Group for inclusion in this programme. PPI Group pays a publishing and promotional fee to P&O Cruises. Please refer to the individual display advertisement for additional locations and information.

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DESTINATIONS

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

RENE FREDRICK/GETTY IMAGES

When visiting tropical spots like Tortola, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to forget that the brilliant beaches, lush fruit trees and colourful Caribbean cottages are only half of the attraction. Some of the most beautiful and compelling scenery of the islands exists under the sea. Snorkeling allows one to peek into a different world, where colourful corals create living homes for schools of fish and a multitude of other living things. Scuba diving can unlock more of the undersea kingdom, even for newcomers, after an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lesson. The British Virgin Islands are renowned in the diving world for the breathtaking variety of marine life swimming along the sandy bottom, darting about coral heads and slowly transforming decades-old shipwrecks into jewelencrusted sanctuaries of the deep. where shall we go 88

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Australian Crystal Opal

Made in the USA | kabana.com | 800-521-5986

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ÂŠ KABANA. All designs protected by copyright All rights reserved. Reproduction/Duplication prohibited. ÂŠ KABANA. All designs protected by copyright laws.laws. All rights reserved. Reproduction/Duplication prohibited.

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