Porthole Cruise and Travel, August 2022 by ppigroup

ONWARD! Azamara's Newest Ship

08.2022

Beyond Berlin: Discover a Different Germany

Frozen Fantasies Ice Hotel Hospitality

Volcanic Wines: Canary Island Vineyards

days for the Galapagos big

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IT’S TIME

to lose yourself in the perfect place.

UNDERGO EXTRAORDINARY SOUTH AMERICA EXPERIENCES

Journey to more thrilling latitudes, where you might experience prehistory in Peru’s Machu Picchu, horseback ride in the beautiful Patagonia landscape, or steer across the awe-inspiring Chilean Fjords. Onboard, you’ll enjoy all-inclusive globally inspired dining options and unlimited premium pours, entertainment, and indulgence. The time to escape has arrived. Plan a 2022 or 2023 luxe-adventure voyage. Atlas Ocean Voyages. Small ships. Big adventures. A LL 2022 /202 3 JOU RNEYS | AL L-INCLUSIVE | BOOK BY SEPT 30, 2022 Call your preferred Travel Advisor or our Voyage Specialists at 1.844.44.ATLAS (28527) or visit atlasoceanvoyages.com Bonus Savings of up to $6,000 per stateroom ($3,000 per person) are based on double occupancy for new bookings made between April 1 to Sept. 30, 2022. Air, land excursions, taxes, port charges and fees are additional. Bonus Savings vary between $1,000 and $6,000 per stateroom based on voyage and accommodations category selected. All promotions are capacity controlled, and Atlas Ocean Voyages reserves the right to modify or close any promotion at any time without notice. Additional restrictions may apply. For full terms and conditions, contact Atlas Ocean Voyages. © 2022 Atlas Ocean Voyages. Ship’s registry: Portugal. All rights reserved. PT.063022A

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UP TO

$6,000 BONUS SAVINGS PER STATEROOM

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EXCURSIONS | DRINKS | SPECIALTY DINING | WI-FI

Our best amenities included in your fare Whether you’re marveling at glaciers in Alaska, relaxing on a white-sand beach in Half Moon Cay or tasting local wine in Australia, you can experience big savings on shore excursions, beverages, specialty dining and Wi-Fi with Have It All.

SHORE EXCURSIONS

Follow your own interests and delve deeply into your destination’s food, culture, history and more.

DRINK PACKAGE

Choose from a wide variety of beer, wine, spirits, cocktails, sodas, specialty coffees and more. Enjoy up to 15 beverages per day—with service charges included.

SPECIALTY DINING

Whether you prefer steak, spaghetti or sushi, don’t miss the chance to savor an expertly prepared meal at one of our award-winning specialty restaurants.

WI-FI

In today’s fast-paced world, it’s more important than ever to stay connected. Surf the web, check your email and stay in touch with loved ones throughout your journey.

*The Have It All (“HIA”) fare (and its parts) are not transferable or refundable, have no cash value, are not valid on Grand Voyages or 1- to 5-day cruise voyages, are available for 1st/2nd guests only, and are subject

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Call your Travel Advisor or visit hollandamerica.com.

to availability. Any advertised fare may be changed or revoked at any time. Fare is subject to full terms and conditions, available at hollandamerica.com/package-terms. Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands.

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CONTRIBUTORS Robin Goldsmith is a British food and drink writer, and a judge in several prestigious UK food and drink competitions. His specialties are beer, wine, spirits, and the low/ no-alcohol sector. He’s particularly interested in food and drink pairings and global gastronomic culture. His website is thewritetaste.co.uk and you can find him on social media @robthefoodie (Twitter and Instagram) and WriteTaste (Facebook).

ISSUE 240 AUGUST 2022

Katie Jackson was raised on a 1,500acre farm in Montana before attending college in the concrete jungle of New York City. When she’s not walking her 150-pound Leonberger or trying to figure out why her bike is making that mysterious noise, she’s writing. Her work has been published by Esquire, USA Today, The New York Post, The Sunday Times, Travel + Leisure, and Outside Magazine.

Jill Weinlein, a cruiser since she was 16 years old, was invited to be one of the first cruise journalists to travel safely on Celebrity Edge in 2021. The historic sailing marked the first cruise ship to sail from an American port in over 15 months due to the pandemic. Her article about the ship’s first female captain, Kate McCue, was featured in Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine in 2021. Steve Leland, a former cruise director, has been cruising the world for the past 40 years. Bringing a new dimension to cruise journalism, he continues to spin the globe searching for off-the-grid cruise adventures and unplugged destinations to share with Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine readers.

Bill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director Grant Balfour Managing Editor Skip Anderson Art Director Sara Linda Proofreader Robin Goldsmith, Katie Jackson, Steve Leland, Mark Orwoll, Toby Saltzman, Bernard “Klute” Schober, Jill Weinlein Contributing Writers Adobe Stock, Alamy Stock Photo, AWL Images, Getty Images, eStock, Mark Orwoll, Toby Saltzman, Unsplash Contributing Photographers

Bill Panoff William P. Jordan III Audrey Balbiers-Panoff Piero Vitale Linda Douthat Stephanie Davies Soren Domlesky

Sales Offices Corporate Headquarters/PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA (954) 377-7777 Email: sales@ppigroup.com

Nature photographer with marine iguana on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos. Maridav/stock.adobe.com

About the cover:

William P. Jordan III Stephanie Davies Distribution Nationally distributed by Comag Marketing Group

President VP Digital Marketing

Mark Orwoll is the former International Editor of Travel + Leisure and author of John Wayne Speaks (St. Martin’s Press, 2021). He has sailed on dozens of ships since 1987, including a recent cruise on Myanmar’s Irrawaddy River, where he volunteered to help feed Buddhist monks at sunrise.

CEO/Chairman President Chief Operating Officer Chief Financial Officer SVP, Publishing VP Digital Marketing Director of Technology

Toby Saltzman pursues her passions for culture, art, history, and nature as a travel writer. Winner of two Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism awards, Toby seeks out the joy of a place and the soul of its people, whether trekking through Patagonia, touring vineyards in New Zealand, visiting hilltop villages in Europe, or embracing the beauty of her home country, Canada.

Porthole Cruise and Travel ©2022 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 POSTMASTER: Send address changes to P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046. All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or (760) 268-9594 (International) 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Pacific time; email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046-9066, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year subscription (6 issues) USA: $24.99; Canada: US$29.99; all other countries: US$59.99 (first class); 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $34.99; Canada: US$39.99; all other countries: US$99.99 (first class). Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax.

For questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com.

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AWAKE YOUR SENSE OF WANDER Indulge in a sensory journey across St. Kitts. Hike our lush rainforests, splash in our crystal-clear waters, and relax on wind-swept beaches warmed by the sun. Whether you’re hard-wired for adventure or have your

St. Kitts & Nevis

heart set on rekindling the romance and renewing those wedding vows, we’re open for wandering. And we’re ready to show you the time of your life.

Visit StKittsTourism.kn to learn more

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

A Trip to Build a Dream On The world is full of the most extraordinary surprises. There’s no telling what you might see once you open your eyes to them! IN THIS ISSUE, Katie Jackson, a writer who roams to some of the world’s most interesting locales and winds up in some of the most unexpected situations, shares what it’s like to go looking for the Big 15 — that is, the 15 most distinctive creatures you can meet on a Galapagos cruise. She describes an up-close encounter with a marine iguana, which, if you’ve never had the experience of getting to know one, is a creature that seems absolutely fantastic (as in fantasy, as in you couldn’t make it up if you tried).

ISSUE 240 AUGUST 2022

They are gigantic lizards that grow up to 5 feet long, swim like dolphins to graze underwater, hold their breath for up to an hour, sneeze out jets of salt to expel it from their bloodstream, and during mating season turn from black (their usual color) to every shade of the rainbow — including white from getting sprayed with each other’s excess salt. They’re like sea monsters from a children’s book come to life. Thinking about marine iguanas, and the other 14 creatures Katie discovers in her adventure (on p. 44), sends my thoughts back to all the other things I’ve seen that seem like something from a dream. House temples overlooking the terraced rice paddies of Bali. A giraffe slowly and carefully taking a drink of water from a riverbank in the South African veldt. The city lights of Paris from the top of the Eiffel Tower. Even the beach five minutes from my home in South Florida is a kind of miracle if you really look at it with fresh eyes, like someone in a dream. And that — looking at a thing with fresh eyes — is really the best thing that travel can do for us. In this issue, we find new ways to look at all kinds of things. • On page 20, we go to the volcanic island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands, and learn about how the eerie black sand has nurtured an amazing winemaking tradition. •

On page 38, we follow a remarkable Mediterranean itinerary aboard the newly christened Azamara Onward, a ship that’s been rebuilt for a different kind of cruising.

•

On page 62, we get a delightfully surreal first-person perspective on one of the ocean’s most misunderstood sea creatures as a conservationist sits down to interview a shark.

•

On page 68, we visit the world’s most luxurious temporary lodgings: hotels built like igloos in the Arctic ice.

Every page of this issue, and in fact every page of Porthole Cruise and Travel, should give you food for thought and nourishment for your sense of wonder. It’s a wonderful world. Happy travels,

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

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Tiktok.com/@portholecruise

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FEATURES

ISSUE 240 AUGUST 2022

44 Galapagos

38 Day @ Sea Azamara Onward sets its sights on the world. by MARK ORWOLL

44 7 Days for the Big 15 A week-long Hurtigruten cruise takes us in pursuit of the most amazing animals in the Galapagos Islands. DANITA DELIMONT/AWL IMAGES LTD

by KATIE JACKSON

52 West by Northwest

Galapagos sea lion pup

Here’s a look at the cruise lines departing from West Coast port cities and venturing into Alaska for the 2022 summer season. by JILL WEINLEIN

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IN THIS ISSUE 10

Contributors

ISSUE 240 AUGUST 2022

Publisher’s Letter

Suite Life

by BILL PANOFF

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Wine & Dine

Exploring Lanzarote’s unique wines and vineyards by ROBIN GOLDSMITH

Shop Around

You’re on vacation. The right gear can make it easy to take it easy.

Roads & Rails

We go road tripping in PNW style, from manicured gardens to glamping in the great outdoors. by GRANT BALFOUR

Shore Leave Beyond Berlin by TOBY SALTZMAN

BEST LIFE We’re building a better tomorrow with the way we travel. by GRANT BALFOUR

Personal Touch Someone-on-one time with a real celebrity of the sea by BERNARD “KLUTE” SCHOBER

Leland & Sea

Steve sails on Silver Moon. by STEVE LELAND

Suite Life

Our Top 5 Ice Hotels will keep your next holiday totally cool. by GRANT BALFOUR

Sail Away

Tahiti

Roads & Rails

Silver Moon

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ASAF KLIGER /ICEHOTEL; SILVERSEA CRUISES; ADOBE STOCK

Good Vibes

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ISSUE 240 AUGUST 2022

Shop Around

Roads & Rails

Wine & Dine

Shore Leave

Roads & Rails

TOP TO BOTTOM: CARLOS CASTILLA JIMENEZ/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; VISCATA; RAVI NATARAJAN/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; ANDREW MAYOVSKYY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

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V TE

We want to hear from you! CLICK HERE ...or head to porthole.com

You Could Win a Cruise for 2! VOTE FOR ALL YOUR FAVORITES * Best ocean cruise * Best cruise director * Best Caribbean port …and much more!

VOTE NOW

& enter to win a 7-night cruise on click here for rules and details on the contest.

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WINE & DINE

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A Journey to the Moon and Back Expolring Lanzarote's unique wines and vineyards can feel like wandering into another world.

he Canary Islands are a favorite vacation destination and cruise ships regularly head there. Yet not many visitors know that this sun-kissed archipelago with its beautiful beaches, volcanic landscapes, and busy bars, 60 miles west of the coast of Morocco, is also a haven for wine lovers.

OLHA KRAT/UNSPLASH

by Robin Goldsmith

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WINE & DINE Bodegas Los Bermejos

Wines of the Canary Islands Wine has been made in the Canaries since the 15th century, when Europeans conquered the islands. For many years after, British merchant and Royal Navy ships carried sweet, fortified Canary wine to mainland Europe, the Americas, Asia, and Australia. Millions of gallons of sack or malmsey, as it was called, were exported to the UK each year during the 16th and 17th centuries and enjoyed by royalty, aristocrats, and writers, including Shakespeare. As desire for French and Portuguese wines began to grow in the 18th century, demand for Canary wine declined and most of the islands' industry collapsed. Now, with interest growing in more unusual, fresh, and savory styles, the islands' vineyards offer something new for the modern wine lover. They are completely different from anywhere else on Earth and none moreso than those found on the moon-like island of Lanzarote.

Picón covers Timanfaya National Park.

Lanzarote is the oldest and the furthest northeast of the seven major Canary Islands. It is thought to owe its name to a Genoese sailor, Lancellotto Malocello, who arrived there in the 14th century.

”

In 1730, a series of volcanic eruptions began which lasted six years...and created the lunar landscape we see today.

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”

In 1730, a series of volcanic eruptions began which lasted six years. They destroyed the crop-producing central plains and created the lunar landscape we see today. Around one third of the island (77 square miles) became covered with lava and ash, called picón. Despite this devastation, the volcanic debris was found to have special properties. It proved particularly good for growing wine grapes.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BODEDGAS LOS BERMEJOS; WALIPIX/STOCK.ADOBE.COM;ROBIN GOLDSMITH; BODEGAS LOS BERMEJOS; SONG_ABOUT_SUMMER/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Literally Erupting onto the Wine Scene

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Rock meets sea at Papagayo Beach.

Harsh Climate, Ingenious Solutions Lanzarote has a subtropical, semi-arid climate. There is very little rainfall and no bodies of fresh water either. However, moist Atlantic trade winds (alisios) blowing in from the northeast keep humidity levels on the island high, except during the occasional calima, a hot, dry wind blowing over from the Sahara. The nutrient-rich picón is great at absorbing this scarce moisture, so can feed growing vines in otherwise impossible conditions. Consequently, the islanders devised ingenious methods of viticulture, which remain to this day. Many vines are planted in the center of crater-like pits called hoyos. These are dug deep into the soil, past the thick layers of picón and solidified volcanic lava. The hoyos are surrounded by semi-circular stone walls called socos. These protect the vines from wind and daytime heat while trapping humidity. Alternatively, some growers use zanjas — rows of vines dug in trenches, protected by long stone walls — and some vines are planted in chabocos, naturally occurring volcanic fissures in the lava.

Los Bermejos dry volcanic malvasia, or malvasía volcánica seco

Native Grapes There are five native grapes on the island. The main one is malvasía volcánica, typically making white wines with tropical and citrus fruit notes; mineral, saline freshness; and bright acidity. Diego also produces wines with high levels of acidity, but the fruit character is more like green apple, pear, and citrus with some herbaceous notes. Listán blanco is mostly found in blends, while moscatel de Alexandria is used almost exclusively for floral, sweet wines. The only indigenous red grape is listán negro, which is also grown throughout the Canaries. Wines made from this are typically dry, aromatic ,and light-to-medium bodied. They are low in tannins and can show red and black fruit notes with a mineral, smoky character.

Visiting Vineyards MANY VINEYARDS ARE OPEN TO VISITORS. HERE ARE A FEW SUGGESTIONS: El Grifo is the oldest bodega in the Canaries, making wine since 1775. It's also the location of the Lanzarote Wine Museum. Their wide selection of wines includes the famous sweet, fortified malvasía Canari. Los Bermejos is also worth a visit. Their Diego seco goes fantastically well with the local fish and seafood! El Tablero is the definition of a boutique winery, producing just a few thousand bottles a year, sold only from the on-site shop. Their malvasía seco is a superb, pure example of malvasía volcánica, while their listán negro tinto is a delicious example of a fresh red wine. Vulcano Lanzarote has a stylish little shop off the main road in Tías with wines produced next door. Try their malvasía volcánica roble for a richer expression of the grape with a more rounded, slightly buttery mouthfeel. If you don't manage to visit any vineyards, then you can find many superb-value wines in supermarkets, often costing under €10 ($10.50) a bottle, and in restaurants. Vega de Yuco's yaiza blanco seco (100 percent malvasía volcánica) in its iconic blue-glass bottle, for example, is widely available. For more information on the island's wines and visiting vineyards there, Wine Tours Lanzarote is highly recommended.

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the

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the

NEW HORIZONS AT SEA

M S C S E A S CA PE This December, MSC Cruises’ brand-new MSC Seascape will set sail, offering an immersive experience that truly connects you to the sea. Her cutting-edge design features impressive outdoor spaces for unparalleled relaxation and stunning ocean views. Enjoy 11 dining venues and 19 bars and lounges, our signature aft Infinity Pool and waterfront promenade, world-class entertainment, an expansive MSC Yacht Club, and unmissable onboard amenities including cruising’s first Robotron at sea, an unprecedented thrill ride for adrenaline-seekers. MSC Seascape will offer Eastern and Western Caribbean itineraries, including calls on Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve, our exclusive private island in The Bahamas. Set sail for memorable experiences and discover new horizons at sea aboard MSC Seascape.

ON LY T HE SE A, ON LY MSC.

VISIT MSCCRUISES.COM | CALL 877.665.4655 | CALL YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR 08-09 MSC Cruises spread.indd 25

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SHOP AROUND

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Packing For Comfort You’re on vacation. The right gear can make it easy to take it easy.

Viscata: Gava Canvas Wedges Viscata makes earth-friendly shoes that are as comfortable as they are stylish, fashioned with care from sustainable, 100 percent organic cotton canvas and plant based inks. They’re shoes that make you look good and feel good.

or those of us who aren’t the backpacker/mountaineer type, the hardest part of travel is doing without the comforts of home. Luckily, though, there are some designers (what the backpacker type would call “outfitters”) who specialize in items that make anywhere in the world feel as comfortable as your own bedroom. Here’s what we’d pack for maximum comfort on our adventures.

CEP: Compression Socks These socks aren’t super flashy, and are in fact made for recovery. But they’re also ideal for comfort on long flights or road trips. CEP, a specialist in clothes for running, hiking, or climbing, weaves these socks out of yarns with bioactive minerals that use your body’s heat to stimulate the regeneration process, and they’re scientifically designed with a graduated compression profile to help regenerate tired muscles, increase circulation, and reduce swelling in the legs and feet.

cepcompression.com

Patra: Pure Silk Thermals We’re not saying you should wear these on the outside, but in some cases you could. Beyond looks, they’re ultra-light, supremely comfortable, and yet have the ability to keep your body warm even on the frostiest of nights. Patra’s silk thermals come in women’s and men’s designs in a variety of different styles.

The Barcelona-based brand started with espadrilles back in 2009, but the new wedges collection includes indigodyed Satunas, marigold-colored Pubols, pomegranatehued Reus, and Gavas, dyed sage green by mulberry leaves, with natural jute heels. viscata.com

Sonicare: 9900 Prestige Traveling with a familiar electric toothbrush can make any stateroom seem a touch more homey, but the latest model from Sonicare can make it seem downright indulgent. The 9900 Prestige has a computer brain that senses your brushing style and adapts as you brush, automatically exerting just enough pressure to care for your gums while leaving your pearly whites clean, fresh, and healthy. If that’s not enough, the sensors also connect to an app that gives advice on pressure, motion, position, duration, and frequency of brushing. usa.philips.com 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: VISCATA; USA.PHILIPS.COM; PATRA.COM; CEPCOMPRESSION.COM

patra.com

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ROADS & RAILS

VICTORIA: The Butchart Gardens

Vancouver Island, Coast to Coast We go road tripping in PNW style, from manicured gardens to glamping in the great outdoors. by Grant Balfour

We’ll start in the city where cruise ships dock. Victoria might seem at first like a little sister to (or ferry-boat expansion of) the metropolis of Vancouver. It’s actually the provincial capital of British Columbia, and is packed with sophisticated charm. The Butchart Gardens is a uniquely civilized introduction to Vancouver Island’s natural beauty, with 55 acres of carefully shaped landscapes tended by 50 full-time gardeners. The attractions include an Italian Garden, a Japanese Garden, a Rose Garden, all crafted around Jennie Butchart’s original Sunken Garden — a former limestone quarry she decided to make beautiful in 1912.

LEFT TO RIGHT: BUTCHART GARDENS; KONSTANTINOS MORIATOS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; OFF THE EATEN TRACK; FREE SPIRIT SPHERES; FOKKE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; LINAS T/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

or any “road cruiser,” whether in a car, a tricked-out Sprinter van, or a fully loaded Winnebago Adventurer, the big dream is a coast-to-coast trip. But before you jump into a bucket-list journey that can take many months (and hopefully hundreds of sidetrips) to complete, consider a practice run — a miniature coast-to-coast drive through some of North America’s most beautiful landscapes. We’re talking about spending a few days crossing Vancouver Island from the Salish Sea west to the wild Pacific Coast.

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…a dream-like rainforest resort consisting of cozy, globe-shaped treehouses suspended by cables in the middle of the coastal rainforest.

From Victoria, we head north via the Brentwood Bay ferry (the oldest ferry link on the coast of British Columbia) to Nanaimo, a place of towering trees and taco trucks, but famous across Canada as the birthplace of the “Nanaimo bar.” This nobake dessert features layers of custard and chocolate ganache over a crust of shredded coconut, nuts, and graham cracker. In a region famous for its trails, the least strenuous has to be the Nainamo Bar Trail, leading visitors to bakers serving the treat’s most creative interpretations.



CATHEDRAL GROVE

QUALICUM BEACH & COURTENAY: Elevated Vacation or Elven Fantasy Continuing along 19A to Qualicum, we come to a choice of two fantastic glamping getaways. Turn left, and you’re at Free Spirit Spheres, a dream-like rainforest resort consisting of cozy, globe-shaped treehouses suspended by cables in the middle of the coastal rainforest. Or continue half an hour up the coast to Courtenay and the Rainforest Yurt: An Elven Fantasy. This gorgeous woodland lodging is to a tent what the Ritz-Carlton is to a Motel 6. The interior boasts a curving staircase leading up to a sleeping loft, while the valley outside is filled with stately trees and paths leading down to the beach.

West on 4 we enter the majestic old-growth forest of MacMillan Provincial Park. Cathedral Grove, a short stroll off the highway, was named for the aweinspiring columns of living Douglas firs, almost 30 feet around and 250 feet tall, and red cedars, revered by the First Nations as “the Long Life Maker.”

COOMBS: The Old Country Market



NANAIMO: Trails and Tastes

Turn back south for a stop at The Old Country Market. What started as a simple produce stand gradually evolved. Today, it’s a traditional Scandinavian sod-roof building with a happy family of goats munching on the grass overhead, and people munching down below at the taqueria, the cafe, the pizzeria, the bakery, the doughnut shop, the ice cream parlor … or shopping for European deli goods and local produce.

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ROADS & RAILS

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PORT ALBERNI This woodland city sits at the head of the Alberni Inlet, and if you wanted, you could leave your wheels behind here and take Lady Rose Marine’s M/V Frances Barkley to Bamfield, a remote Pacific town that’s easier to reach by ferry than by RV.

TOFINO: Bohemian Charm



UCLUELET: The Pacific Rim

Here we reach the island’s “outside” coast, the mighty Pacific, where the Amphitrite Point Lighthouse has watched for winter storms since 1906. The light is automated today and closed to the public, but the grounds are considered part of the Wild Pacific Trail and easily accessible via a parking lot at the end of Coast Guard Road. The point is a favorite spot for wave watchers, who can also get a spectacular water show at the nearby Ucluelet Blowhole.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: TOM NEVESELY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; MARGARITA/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; RAVI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

If you’re ready to hit the road, here’s an easy-to-follow Google Map taking you step by step on our trip across Vancouver Island.

Having reached the Pacific, we could turn around … but then we’d miss out on Tofino, less than an hour up the coast. Whale-watching boats can take you out into the Pacific to see orcas, as well as bald eagles, harbour seals, sea lions, otters, and the occasional porpoise. On shore, there are galleries, studios, and boutiques offering artisanal treasures from fine jewelry to handmade chocolates, all imbued with the flavor of Vancouver Island.

The Alaska Railroad

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STOP BY TO SEE UNIQUE ALASKA BRACELET DESIGNS

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SHORE LEAVE

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Saxony deserves notice for the splendid renewal that has taken it from the dark division to its vibrant present.

The Zwinger is Dresden’s most significant architectural and cultural structure.

Once it languished behind the Iron Curtain. Now, Saxony has blossomed into a region worth rediscovering. by Toby Saltzman

Dresden Rising When I arrived from Berlin in the indigo of night, Dresden was a magical sight, its distinctive skyline illuminated and reflecting on the Elbe River. Turning into the city square, I was struck by the towering height of the Frauenkirche, the Church of Our Lady. After being decimated by Allied bombs during the end of World War II, its reconstruction idealizes the spirit of Dresden rising from the ashes of war. The floodlit restorations of the Baroque architecture housing the Semper Opera, and the palaces turned into hotels, government buildings, and museums exemplified the city’s reinvention. Later that night, dining in Alte Meister restaurant on butternut and scallop soup, sea bream, and passion fruit crème brûlée, I realized that my earlier memories of Saxony being dull, grim, and grey — in everything from architecture to cuisine — would be rewritten.

CEZARY WOJTKOWSKI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Beyond Berlin

shard of concrete etched with graffiti — my souvenir of the Berlin Wall found shortly after it tumbled — symbolizes how Saxony, the former East Germany, has risen above its cultural divide from the West that lasted 28 years after WWII. Since German reunification in 1990, Berlin has gained global attention for its architectural and cultural revival, epitomized by the Brandendburg Gate, Reichstag’s glass dome, momentous museums and lively nightlife. Beyond Berlin, Saxony deserves notice for the splendid renewal that has taken it from the dark division to its vibrant present. For historic perspective, before the Second World War, Saxony was Germany’s strongest, most prosperous region. Dresden was the country’s richest and most beautiful city. Cosmopolitan Leipzig was a European center of commerce and music. The medieval city of Gorlitz — originally the splendid center of Prussian Upper Lusatia — was the commercial trading core that vied with Dresden for the most advanced esprit of arts, theater, and craftmanship.

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SHORE LEAVE

I followed the music trail — marked by silver inlays on the streets — to see museums and monuments dedicated to Felix Mendelssohn and Johann Sebastian Bach.

Saxony’s Scenic Countryside On a day trip from Dresden, I hiked through Kromlau Park, famous for the Devil’s Bridge that casts a perfectly circular reflection in the river. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Muskau Park has a remarkable history as it straddles the Neisse River, which marks the border between Germany and Poland. From 1815 to 1844, Prince Hermann von PucklerMuskau created this garden as an enclave of paradise. It’s a lovely park to linger in, perfectly laid out and pleasing from every viewpoint. Inside the castle, historic exhibits include letters and photos that make one wonder about Prince Hermann’s convention-defying life. An author, military leader, and landscape architect, he married a wealthy dowager, had the marriage annulled (but kept relations with her), and on his global wanderings, “bought” a young girl in North Africa who he travelled with as a constant companion.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: TOBY SALTZMAN; ANDREW MAYOVSKYY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; SANTOSHA57/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

In brilliant light the next morning, Dresden beamed with meticulous reconstructions. While the Communists had controlled East Germany, they purposely preserved most devastation to symbolize the evils of war. After reunification, the Saxony and German governments intentionally rebuilt Dresden to signal atonement for Nazi horrors. On a tour of the Old Masters Picture Gallery, 18thcentury paintings by Bernard Bellotto, aka Canaletto, depicted Dresden’s evolution over time. Inside the Royal Palace, rooms and galleries brimming with priceless artifacts reflected 1,000 years of history. Its Green Vault treasury, ballroom with gilded ceiling, and red throne room spoke of centuries of German artistry as well as lavish lifestyles. The Zwinger is the regal Baroque architectural complex started in 1709 by Elector Augustus II “The Strong,” who was then also King of Poland. Incidentally, the virile elector/king, who was known to have fathered 300 illegitimate children, kept his mistresses elsewhere. Exploring the park, we crossed the bridge from Saxony to Poland, viewing hilly groves of leafy trees kissed by the sun, the long ribbon of river, and the castle holding court over a pretty lake.

Semper Opera

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: TOBY SALTZMAN; TTSTUDIO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; LINDASKY76/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Dresden's Royal Palace

Felix Mendelssohn

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[ PLANET PLAYGROUND ]

Surprising Gorlitz Gorlitz exceeded my imagination. Beyond being a treasure trove of Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Art Deco architecture, Gorlitz marked its 950year history by renovating the Grand Synagogue. Originally consecrated in 1911, it miraculously survived Kristallnacht thanks to a few sympathetic souls. When the Nazis set it ablaze, the mayor’s fire brigades doused the flames. Today, the synagogue — its ceiling ringed with gilded Lions of Judah — is a German Monument of National Importance. Renamed the Gorlitz Kulturforum Synagogue, it hosts concerts, cultural and theater programs, and interfaith services. Meantime, Gorlitz — aka Gorliwood — has garnered international stature as a hub for Germany’s burgeoning film industry. Ardent cinephiles follow the filmic footsteps of sites used in Grand Hotel Budapest or Around the World in Eighty Days, Inglourious Basterds, and The Reader. As I entered Untermarkt Square for Lucie Schulte Restaurant, I recognized the square as the site of the book-burning scene in The Book Thief.

The chairs represent 14,000 Leipzig Jews who perished. As in Berlin and all of Germany, Saxony’s cities are scattered with memorials that confront its regrettable past.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: TOBY SALTZMAN; ANDREW MAYOVSKYY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; SANTOSHA57/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Music and Remembrance in Leipzig

Devil's Bridge

My short visit to Leipzig whet my appetite to return. Astonishingly revitalized since my last visit, the city zings with style and artistic culture. I sensed a vibrant tempo at every turn among locals clustered at outdoor cafés. As a music lover, I followed the music trail — marked by silver inlays on the streets — to see museums and monuments dedicated to Felix Mendelssohn and Johann Sebastian Bach. A short walk from the Bach museum led to a vast platform holding 140 empty bronze chairs. On the former site of Leipzig’s Grand Synagogue that was destroyed on Kristallnacht, the chairs represent 14,000 Leipzig Jews who perished. As in Berlin and all of Germany, Saxony’s cities are scattered with memorials that confront its regrettable past. Inside St. Thomas Church, hearing Bach’s organ music swell to the lofty gothic ceiling felt divine. With music flowing through my mind, I settled into the calm, polished aesthetic of Weinstock Weinstube Bistro for lunch, delighted that Saxony surpassed the cultural divide.

Dresden

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FEEL FREE TO LET THE OUTSIDE IN The best way to experience Alaska is with Norwegian It’s time to get away to a place where you can ﬁnally be free. Free to zoom past majestic blue-lit glaciers on the only race tracks at sea—no meeting request required. Free to dine out, like way out, beside the sea and under the stars on The Waterfront, our quarter-mile oceanfront promenade. And free to explore authentic Native American culture and unique wildlife in untouched Icy Strait Point. With ﬁve award-winning ships offering diverse itineraries, you can take your vacation from awe to awesome with Norwegian Cruise Line.

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Juneau, Alaska

The Waterfront, Norwegian Bliss

Homer, Alaska

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AZAMARA

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FORWARD WITH ONWARD by Mark Orwoll

With the addition of its latest R-class ship, Azamara sets its sights on the world.

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elcome to Azamara Onward. Now get off the ship! Don’t take that the wrong way; take it as a gift. Azamara’s mission is to give its guests the one thing no one ever has enough of: time. Time to explore unusual, offbeat destinations. Time to have a late dinner at the cute little brasserie you saw that morning on the shore excursion. Time, even, to do nothing at all. If that sounds like an unusual philosophy for a cruise line, remember that Azamara is an outlier in the industry, and has been since its launch under the Royal Caribbean corporate umbrella in 2007. The emphasis is on destination immersion and country-intensive voyages. Consider: Most cruise ships usher their passengers onto tour buses at 8:00 a.m. (not even enough time for a decent breakfast!) and pour them back on board by 5:00, after which the ship may not even see land again for another 30 hours. Azamara, on the other hand, seems to be asking, "Why the rush?"

From R-Three to Onward The newest addition to Azamara’s fleet of luxury small ships is Azamara Onward, which debuted in May 2022 after its christening in Monte Carlo. Cruise geeks will eagerly tell you the origins of Onward, and how it recently completed a renovation to erase any trace of its previous life as Pacific Princess, operated by Princess Cruises until 2021. In its earliest incarnation, the ship was known by the almost Orwellian moniker R-Three, the third in the fabled R-class ships built for Renaissance Cruises, which went belly-up in 2001. R-Three, today Azamara Onward, is identical to its three Azamara sister ships. The eight original R-class ships are now evenly dispersed between Azamara and its cross-town rival in the luxury small-ship category, Oceania. There are no others. How, then, can Azamara ever hope to expand? Carol Cabezas, Azamara's president, is sly about revealing future plans. When I recently suggested to her that they probably would have to kidnap one of the Oceania vessels, she discreetly replied, "We're exploring all options." At the risk of being labeled an unreliable narrator, I will backtrack and rephrase my description of the four Azamara ships as being identical: The newly launched Onward has a special something none of the others

has: the Atlas Bar. The goal there is to prep and serve artisanal cocktails that no one on earth has ever drunk or even heard of. How about a Grand Bazaar (Turkish yeni raki, fresh lemon juice, arugula syrup), a Mumbai Hug (chili-infused Grey Goose vodka, fresh lime juice, ginger syrup, lime syrup, cilantro) or a Heat of Azamara (Grey Goose vodka, fresh strawberry puree, fresh lime juice, passion fruit nectar, Galliano, absinthe)? Imagine, someone actually gets paid to come up with these concoctions. The space itself is intimate, tucked away, and has the late-night atmosphere of a fashionable London private club. Considering its small size (684 passengers), Onward has plenty of nooks like that. The Den, with a bar called Spirits, is another such just-us place, especially with Vasi at the Keys (as the ship’s daily newsletter insists on calling the pianist who plays there). The mononymical Vasi is more than just an anonymous lounge pianist drifting from “Strangers in the Night” to “Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head.” She chats with the crowd as if with friends (and occasionally lets them sing abbreviated versions of songs, karaoke-style). She transforms the Den into a sophisticated Broadway piano bar where it’s always 1:00 a.m. and the audience doesn’t want to leave. Let’s say a passenger decided to stay on board one day while their fellow guests were off exploring some charm-filled, medieval Provençal village. I’m not recommending that, but there are plenty of times during a cruise when someone doesn’t necessarily want to go anywhere. Options exist. One could join a trivia team to compete against one’s fellow layabouts in, say, the music category. (I lost the Motown trivia contest to an English couple. An English couple!) One afternoon I watched the entertainment staff compete against the kitchen team in a cake-decorating competition. Guess who won? (“If anyone wants a slice, please help yourself,” said cruise director Eric De Gray, pointing to his lopsided pastry, generously covered in frosting, fruit, and, I’m guessing, Jujubes. “I’m sure it tastes better than it looks.”) Or point yourself in the direction of the swimming pool, twin Jacuzzis, shuffleboard court on the Sun Deck, board games in the Card Room, day-drinking indoors at Discoveries or outdoors at the Pool Bar, and dining at any of seven restaurants (everything from the Mosaic coffee bar for cappuccino and pastries to the buffet at Windows to the elegant, wood-paneled (and extra-charge) Prime C steakhouse. But again, why would you?!

AZAMARA (5)

The newest addition to Azamara’s fleet of luxury small ships is Azamara Onward, which debuted in May 2022 after its christening in Monte Carlo.

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GODMOTHER BETH SANTOS christened the fourth ship in the Azamara fleet at a Monte Carlo naming ceremony on May 2, 2022. Festivities included white-clad acrobats, chamber musicians, and a children's choir, and ended with a signature White Night Party on board. Santos, as CEO and founder of Wanderful, leads a community of over 45,000 women committed to travel. “This is such a symbolic moment not just for Azamara, but for the entire travel industry," says Santos. "Following two years of pause, we look forward to pressing onward with new mindsets, new adventures, and new opportunities to learn how we can be better travelers.” There's video of the celebration here.

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Cinque Terre

Monte Carlo

Sydney

AZAMARA (5)

Cabezas recently announced that Onward would be the first Azamara ship to offer a world voyage.

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Destination-Immersive Cruising

Monterosso al Mare

LEFT TO RIGHT: STEF/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; NEIL FARRIN/AWL IMAGES LTD; MARK ORWOLL; AZAMARA; MARK ORWOLL; DAVIDE MARCONCINI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Porto Venere

Even on my short, 4-night, pre-inaugural cruise from Barcelona to Monte Carlo via Cinque Terre, the adventures ashore were the heavy attraction. In the pastel-painted seafront village of Porto Venere, Italy, Azamara took over the town, planting opera singers next to ancient churches and an accordionist at the plaza. Guests were proffered lavish pours of prosecco and platters of prosciutto on a pier overlooking the handsome seaport. In Monterosso al Mare, the largest of the five towns of Cinque Terre, a guide led our small group up an ancient cobbled lane to a hillside winery, where we were treated to a wine tasting and light lunch on a covered patio overlooking lush vineyards and fruit-laden lemon trees. Azamara has built its reputation on such unconventional and unexpected “AzAmazing” experiences. The ship also spent one night in port at Monte Carlo — long enough for at least one bartender in town to know me by name. (Cue the wife: “Not that unusual for you, Mark.”) Azamara claims it has more late departures and overnights in port than any other cruise line. So go ahead and linger over the Rioja in the late-night tapas bar; no need to hurry back to the ship. In most cases, passengers don’t even have to concern themselves with tender schedules; at 30,277 gross registered tons, Azamara Onward, like its sisters, is small enough to dock in most of the ports it visits. Some industry observers wondered what, if anything, would change when Royal Caribbean Group sold Azamara to Sycamore Partners, a New York-based private equity firm, in March 2021. But if any Azamara fans were wary of the transition, their concern—so far, at least—seems misplaced. Carol Cabezas, who was named chief operating officer of the line in 2017 and president in 2021, seems likely to carry on Azamara’s goals and traditions. If anything, she’s even expanding on them. Cabezas recently announced that Onward would be the first Azamara ship to offer a world voyage — more than 40 countries across 155 nights, January 4 to June 9, 2024. Until then, the ship will spend the summer in the Caribbean, Central America, and South America, and the fall and winter roaming the Mediterranean. It’s a wonder some wag hasn’t already rechristened the Onward the Wayward. “The addition of Azamara Onward has given us so many itinerary options we didn’t have before,” she said. But I have to cut this short. Vasi at the Keys has (somewhat reluctantly) said I could sing Elton John’s “Tiny Dancer,” and will even let me hold the microphone. But one verse only! 

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HURTIGRUTEN EXPEDITIONS

Galapagos penguin

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7 15

Days for the Big

A week-long Hurtigruten cruise takes us in pursuit of the most amazing animals in the Galapagos Islands. By Katie Jackson

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“C

lose your eyes and picture a moving tortoise,” instructs our orientation leader. “Because that’s how fast our WiFi is.” He isn’t joking. The internet connection on the Santa Cruz II brings us all back to the days of dial-up. Forget posting videos. Simply uploading a photo is an overnight affair. At first, my fellow passengers and I find it frustrating. A few of us even complain to the ship’s hotel manager. But ultimately, we all know we didn’t travel 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador to scroll through Instagram.

Without WiFi, I resort to reading my guidebook. It refers to the Galapagos Islands as “a place where God has rained rocks.” To me, this creation story seems plausible. But according to geologists, the archipelago is the result of millions of years’ worth of volcanic activity. In all, there are 127 islands. Our 7-night Hurtigruten Expeditions cruise, “Following in Darwin’s Footsteps,” has plans to stop at nine of them. Mother Nature, however, has other plans. On the first day of our voyage, Wolf Volcano, the highest point in the Galapagos, starts spewing ash and lava. The eruption makes national news. It also makes visiting Isabela Island — the largest island in the Galapagos — a no-go. Despite being last-minute, the itinerary change doesn’t bother us. We have our bucketlist blinders on; we’re just thrilled to be here.

Marine iguana

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Santa Cruz II

Sea lions

I have to retrain my brain to find beauty in the barren. Steven Spielberg did.

CLOCKWISE: HURTIGRUTEN (X2), GUDKOVANDREY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; MEG JERRARD/UNSPLASH

Sea lion pup

Wild Islands The Galapagos has never been a stopover destination. The islands are remote, expensive, and strictly regulated. Nearly 97 percent of the archipelago is protected as a national park. If you find yourself here, it’s because you went out of your way to make it happen. Ironically, however, the islands were discovered by accident. In 1535, the first bishop of Panama happened upon them while attempting to sail to Peru. Three hundred years later, the second most important anchor in the islands’ history dropped. It belonged to the HMS Beagle, a British Royal Navy vessel conducting a survey of the South American coast. Among its crewmembers was a 26-year-old

geologist named Charles Darwin. Surprisingly, given their contribution to the theory of evolution, Darwin’s famous finches aren’t part of the Galapagos Big 15 — the archipelago’s answer to Africa’s Big 5. Birds on the list include the Galapagos albatross, Galapagos hawk, blue-footed booby, red-footed booby, Nazca booby, flightless cormorant, American flamingo, and frigate. Mammals and reptiles making the cut include the land iguana, marine iguana, Santa Fe land iguana, Galapagos penguin, Galapagos sea lion, Galapagos fur seal, and Galapagos giant tortoise. On the first day of our cruise, we spot at least three of them.

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Bold Boobies If wild animals in the Galapagos have any respect for mankind, they do a terrible job of showing it. Most creatures we encounter are indifferent to our presence. Others appear annoyed, but not bothered enough to flee. Sea lions, insatiably curious and playful, are the exception. They glide alongside me as I snorkel, sizing me up as if challenging me to a race. I know I wouldn’t stand a chance. For how awkward they move on land, they’re surprisingly agile underwater. When I paddleboard, they dive beneath my board. Sea lions are like the mole in Whac-A-Mole; I’m never sure when, or where, they’ll pop up. They’re everywhere, too. In San Cristobal, we hear about a floating dock that sank because there were too many sea lions on it at once. As entertaining as the sea lions are — there’s even a

stowaway attempt when one climbs aboard the ship’s steps — it’s the birds who have my fellow passengers and I fighting over the binoculars. Birds account for more than half of the Big 15. There’s no prize, but each one of us wants to be the first person to spot them all. Admittedly, it’s a bit of a letdown the day we learn blue-footed boobies don’t really have blue feet. They’re born with gray feet. The blue color comes from the carotenoids they get from a diet heavy in fresh fish. And the feet of the red-footed booby? Their feet only turn red when the booby is sexually mature and ready to attract a mate. One day, we come across a pair of red-footed boobies going at it, beak-to-beak. Our guide tells us they’re “probably smooching.” We’re so close to the couple we almost get caught in the crossfire.

Blue-footed booby

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: HURTIGRUTEN (X2); JTPLATT/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

A male frigate displays his red gular pouch, hoping to attract a female.

Bold is Beautiful It’s one thing for the brochures to say “You can’t get this close to wildlife anywhere else in the world.” It’s another thing to live it. On the island of Santa Fe, I accidentally step on a marine iguana — the world’s only seafaring lizard (found only in the Galapagos). It was bound to happen. They’re everywhere: swimming in the surf, sunning on the sand in messes — what you call groups of iguanas — and clinging to rock walls for warmth. Like most of the fauna found in the Galapagos, except for the tropical fish we see while snorkeling, they’re not exactly aesthetically pleasing.

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Much of the flora, which includes no fewer than three cacti species, is also lacking in the good looks department. On the island of Santa Cruz — where the majority of the Galapagos’ human population lives — there is so much prickly pear we may as well be in the Sonoran Desert. Under a barebones tree, offering little-to-no shade, our guide explains that in such a remote and inhospitable place, plants don’t have much competition. As a result, they don’t need to look pretty in order to attract pollinators. So, why waste energy flowering? Many don’t.

I struggle with this at first. I have to retrain my brain to find beauty in the barren. Steven Spielberg did. At the Charles Darwin Research Station, in the shade of a manchineel tree (which supposedly provided the poison that killed Ponce de Leon), I learn the tortoises we’re observing inspired the director to create his most iconic character, E.T. the Extra-Terrestrial. The resemblance is uncanny. Like E.T., Galapagos tortoises have extremely long necks. In fact, they use them for fighting.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: HURTIGRUTEN; STEVE AZAR/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; HURTIGRUTEN; NORADOA/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Barren Beauty

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There is so much prickly pear we may as well be in the Sonoran Desert.

“It’s like a thumb war,” explains our guide when we pause on our walking tour to watch a pair of males fight. “Whoever’s neck reaches higher wins.” The two giant tortoises, facing off just 6 feet in front of us, move at a glacial pace. It’s as if we’re watching in slow motion. I don’t blame them for taking their sweet time. If I was looking at a lifetime expectancy of 150 years old I wouldn’t be in a rush either. I don’t need to glance over at them to know my fellow passengers are equally enthralled. None of us care how long this showdown takes — it’s not as if we have WiFi on the ship to get back to.

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PRINCESS CRUISES

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WEST BY NORTHWEST by Jill Weinlein

Here’s a look at the cruise lines departing from West Coast port cities and venturing into Alaska for the 2022 summer season.

Princess Cruises “The reopening of Canadian ports to the cruise industry is a bold and important move that significantly expands the array of travel opportunities available to guests,” says John Padgett, President of Princess Cruises. The cruise line offers six ships in the region, including the newest ship, Discovery Princess. She makes her inaugural season in Alaska from Seattle sailing along the Inside Passage with stops visiting the charming Southeast Alaska capital city of Juneau, gold-rush era Skagway, salmon-rich Ketchikan, and British-influenced Victoria, B.C. Other popular 7-day cruises include Crown Princess and Majestic Princess, along with Royal Princess and Grand Princess, sailing the “Voyage of the Glaciers” 7-day itinerary from Vancouver and Whittier. Travelers cruising on Ruby Princess sail underneath the iconic Golden Gate Bridge during her 10-day “Inside Passage” cruise from San Francisco. Ruby Princess in Tracy Arm Fjord

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Norwegian Encore in Seattle

Norwegian has a long history of cruising from Seattle to Alaska, and helped open and expand the new Wilderness Landing pier at Icy Strait Point and the first of two gondola systems with the Alaska Nativeowned Huna Totem Corporation. Guests board Norwegian Bliss, Encore, Sun, Spirit, and Jewel in Seattle for 5- to 10-day cruises. Harry Sommer, Norwegian’s president and CEO, takes pride in his line’s 22-year history cruising to Alaska, and says: “We christened the largest cruise ship in Seattle in 2018 with the debut of Norwegian Bliss.” That ship leaves Seattle to visit Dawes Glacier, Juneau, and Ketchikan through October 2022. Norwegian provides travelers with immersive experiences through Southeast Alaska, visiting natural wonders including the passage

through the 25-million-acre World Heritage Site, Glacier Bay National Park. The cruise line was granted access because of its environmental commitments focused on air emissions, waste, and wildlife protection. Other once-in-a-lifetime sites guests may visit include the majestic Mendenhall Glacier, which lies nearly 12 miles outside Juneau. Those sailing on the Norwegian Sun round-trip Seattle cruise will have the opportunity to see Alaska wildlife, glaciers, and rainforest while visiting the Icy Strait Point, Juneau, Ketchikan’s Ward Cove, and Victoria in British Columbia. Families on Norwegian Encore will sail to Glacier Bay, Skagway, and Juneau from Seattle, while experiencing the largest race track at sea, and taking in the 180-degree views from the observation lounges.

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE; REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES; NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

Norwegian Cruise Line

Norwegian Bliss

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Regent Seven Seas Cruises Touted “The Most Exclusive Address at Sea”, Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner cruises from Victoria, British Columbia, or Seward, Alaska. Passengers see Hubbard Glacier, Sitka, Juneau, Skagway, and Ketchikan while aboard the all-inclusive luxury cruise. Guests receive complimentary shore excursions, spacious suites with a private balcony, and knowledgeable onboard speakers and local guides leading tours, tastes, and activities at each port.

Seven Seas Mariner

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North Star on Ovation of the Seas.

Royal Caribbean International Royal Caribbean offers Quantum of the Seas and Ovation of the Seas sailing from Seattle for 7-night Alaska Glacier cruises. This season, Radiance of the Seas sails 7-night round-trip cruises from Vancouver with stops on select cruises in Sitka, Tracy Arm Fjord, Sawyer Glacier, Juneau, Hubbard Glacier, Icy Strait Point, Haines, and back to Vancouver. Serenade of the Seas is sailing 7-night cruises one-way from Vancouver up to Seward and also Seward down to Vancouver.

Celebrity Cruises Celebrity provides refined experience and exceptional service on three ships. The Celebrity Millennium open-ended itineraries between Vancouver and Seward offer guests the opportunity to journey deeper into the heart of Alaska or the Canadian Rockies. Guests choosing Celebrity Solstice leave from Seattle as its starting point, and Celebrity Eclipse sails from Vancouver.

‘Fun for All’ sailings to Alaska include Carnival Miracle from its newest homeport in San Francisco. The 10-day Alaska cruise vacation stops in Juneau, Ketchikan, Sitka, Skagway, Icy Strait Point in Victoria, and the scenic Tracy Arm Fjord on select cruises. Carnival Splendor welcomes passengers on 7-day itineraries and one 8-day cruise. Seattle is the homeport for Carnival Spirit sailing on different 6-day to 8-day itineraries, exploring Juneau, Ketchikan, Sitka, Icy Point, and Tracy Arm Fjord.

Carnival Miracle

ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL; CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE

Carnival Cruise Line

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Inﬁnity Jewelry is a family-owned company that was started in honor of the owner’s parents. Our interlocking diamonds reﬂect, “As Two become One - Eternal Love.”

Our dream at Inﬁnity is to change the world by giving love. So, purchase with purpose at INFINITY JEWELRY. We want you to make memories and have Lifetimes of Love.

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Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic

Travelers visit secluded coves by kayak to see soaring bald eagles, or follow a pod of orcas or humpback whales.

Star Breeze in Tracy Arm Fjord

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Viking Octantis

Paddleboarding in Tracy Arm Fjord

Windstar Cruises Windstar Cruises recently transformed the Star Breeze into an all-suite yacht with 50 new suites for up to 312 passengers. There are two new restaurants, a spa/fitness center, and more efficient engines. The “Scenic Alaska” cruise explores the coastal wilderness from Juneau to Vancouver along the Canadian Inside Passage. The ship is also sailing an 11-day ‘Alaskan Splendors’ to discover small towns and some of the best wildlife viewing opportunities. The 15-day Vancouver to Fairbanks sailing includes a visit to the picturesque Denali National Park. However you like to sail, you couldn’t ask for a better time to book an Alaska cruise for this summer or 2023.

MIKE GREENFELDER/LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS; WINDSTAR CRUISES

With over 40 years of cruising, Lindblad Expeditions guests receive enriching wilderness experiences aboard their four ships. The 62-guest National Geographic Sea Bird, and her sister ship National Geographic Sea Lion, along with the 100-guest sister ships, National Geographic Quest and National Geographic Venture, sail for 6 to 15 days. Travelers visit secluded coves by kayak to see soaring bald eagles, or follow a pod of orcas or humpback whales. The 6-day “Wild Alaska Escape” starts in Juneau and sails to Ketchikan, and another voyage is from Sitka to Juneau. Guests hike through ancient forests and kayak into glacially carved fjords. Those who choose the 8-day “Exploring Alaska’s Coastal Wilderness” trip sail by islands teeming with wildlife and spend a full day with a park ranger. Another 8-day “Voyage to Great Bear Rainforest: Native Culture & Wildlife in the Land of the Spirit Bear” sails into National Geographic’s “Places of a Lifetime.” This cruise stretches across the central and northern coast of British Columbia through winding fjords into the Great Bear Rainforest, the world’s largest surviving coastal temperate rainforest. Longer sailings include a 15-day “Remarkable Journey to Alaska” to discover a nearly lost First Nations culture in the remote archipelago of Haida Gwaii.

Scenic Eclipse helicopter

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The best of the earth Gold formed as veins inside quartz deposits within the earth. Erosion then broke the gold out to become individual nuggets. Today, when gold is found still embedded in quartz, they are kept together and placed in dazzling settings by the craftspeople of Orocal. For authentic gold in quartz and gold nugget jewelry look for the Orocal logo, the most trusted name in Gold Quartz for more than 25 years.

224 Front Street

Julie’s in Ketchikan has one of the world’s largest selections of this incredible work of Nature.

55 Schoenbar Court

www.juliesalaska.com 800.982.0554 Stay connected and like us on Facebook

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GOOD VIBES From eco-conscious cruising to giving back for the greater good, here’s how we’re looking after the places we visit.

Our Destination: Delight We’re building a better tomorrow with the way we travel.

AMBASSADOR CRUISE LINE

by Grant Balfour

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: @R ADIO MARGARITAVILLE; DONVICTORI0/STOCK. ADOBE.COM; V.J. MAT THEW/STOCK. ADOBE.COM; ANDREY ARMYAGOV/STOCK. ADOBE.COM

[ BEST LIFE ]

NEW CRUISE LINE SAILS SUSTAINABLY

CLEANER ENERGY FOR TOMORROW’S TRAVEL

This April, Ambassador Cruise Line’s first ship, Ambience, was christened in Tilbury, England, marking the first British cruise line to launch since 2010. But what’s more remarkable is the way the ships have been outfitted to exceed all environmental standards. Although originally built for Princess Cruises, Ambience now has been equipped with IMO Tier III compliant emission-reduction technologies which will reduce nitrogen oxide emissions by approximately 95 percent, including an annual CO2 emission reduction of 5.358 tons. Ballast and sewage water treatment systems might sound unglamorous, but these have all been rebuilt to an exacting standard. As a result, Ambience and sister ship Ambition will be among the 10 percent of all cruise ships in service authorized to sail in strictly environmentally protected seas. Not bad for a new kid!

MARGARITAVILLE AT SEA

General Electric is not a name that usually comes up in cruising, but the corporate powerhouse has just unveiled a new pair of energy-saving technologies for ships and ports. The two innovative GE projects are able to reduce emissions and improve power output. One, executed with partners Ceres, Lloyd’s Register and MSC Cruise Management (UK) Ltd., uses solid oxide fuel-cell systems to provide onboard electricity, potentially cutting CO2 emissions by 47 percent.

Check out the newest cruise kingpin, Jimmy Buffett, as he sings through the Dog Days of Summer on @radiomargaritaville. It’s the ideal soundtrack for sailing on the new Margaritaville at Sea Paradise out of Port of Palm Beach to Freeport, Bahamas … or just for driving around wishing you were!

The other concept, carried out with PD Ports Ltd, Connected Places Catapult, and Teesside University, uses new digital systems to manage power in ports, in part by creating a “digital twin” — a perfect model of a port inside a computer, enabling power managers to test out energy-saving systems and emergency responses without taking any systems offline or doing expensive and unnecessary equipment replacements.

LIGHTHOUSE PROJECT LEADS THE WAY Exclusive river cruise purveyor Avalon Waterways, with sister companies Globus, Cosmos, and Monograms, has joined a new initiative, The Lighthouse Project, intended to spread understanding of world cultures while raising resources for the globe’s greater good. “We asked ourselves how we can do more and waste less,” explains Sustainability Director Giles Hawke. “We’re supporting brilliant ideas in sustainability, like The Ocean Cleanup, a non-profit group spearheading the largest cleanup in history by removing tons of plastic from our rivers and our oceans.” The project is partnering with other cause-related charities like South African National Park Honorary Rangers, Cambodia-based Landmine Design, Trees4Travel, Wildland Firefigher Foundation, and Unicef. It’as supporting preservation projects like the National Civil Rights Museum in Tennessee and British Columbia’s Squamish Lil’Wat Centre, and local schools in Tanzania, Vietnam, and elsewhere. Avalon also hopes to unveil the first fully electric river cruise vessel by 2027.

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General the corp technol The two power o Cruise M onboard The oth and Tee

PERSONAL TOUCH

"We’re just curious — if anything, you intimidate us. We’ll swim away before you even notice we’re there."

An Interview With a Caribbean Reef Shark In time for Shark Week, Porthole has landed some one-on-one time with a real celebrity of the sea, someone our roving reporter, conservationist Klute Schober, assures us is not notorious but misunderstood.

HUDSON FLEECE / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

by Bernard “Klute” Schober

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[ BEST LIFE ]

ON A SUNNY SEPTEMBER’S DAY IN NASSAU, I MANAGED TO FLOAT DOWN WITH a Caribbean reef shark, where, over gin and tonic immobility, we discussed life toward the top of the trophic pyramid.

KS: “Caribbean” is pretty broad; where do you actually live?

have been serving them to us. Spiky, but exotic and tasty; imagine snapper taste and grouper mouthfeel. The more lionfish we all eat, the better it is for the reef. Those invasive venom balls don’t belong here — plus it’s sustainable seafood. Ask your server for the lionfish filet!

CRS: From blue Bahama waters to the Mexican surf! We’re unique to this part of the ocean, but sharks are found in every ocean, except the Southern Antarctic.

KS: You mentioned “sustainability.” I imagine as a threatened species that’s important to you. How can our readers help?

KS: Some of our readers might be distressed about that.

CRS: Don’t buy wildlife souvenirs! Sharks’ jaws and tooth necklaces belonged to friends of mine! And coral? Ooof. That’s my home. Oh — and ask how your seafood was caught!

Klute Schober: Thanks for swimming by today. Caribbean Reef Shark: No problem, it was on my way to my next island.

CRS: They shouldn’t be! Unless you’re a chonky grouper, you’re not on the menu. We’re just curious — if anything, you intimidate us. We’ll swim away before you even notice we’re there. KS: You’re never aggressive? CRS: Well, don’t try to grab onto us for a ride. That selfie you get may not be the one you want. KS: Besides grouper, what else is on the menu? CRS: Been enjoying lionfish lately. Some dive operations

KS: What else should we know about you? CRS: Lots! Even though we live near 44 million humans, you all know so little about us. You’re still trying to figure out where we mate, give birth, how long we live. We’re on Shark Week so much, you’d think our story’s been told, but really — your scientists have barely scratched the surface of the mysteries of all [waves fins] this. I urge you to get to know the real us — through responsible shark tourism! 

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT US CARIBBEAN REEF SHARKS BEYOND THE HEADLINES, CHECK OUT: The Caribbean Shark Coalition, founded in 2020 by the Dutch Caribbean Nature Alliance (DCNA) and Beneath the Waves (BTW) to study and protect sharks.

360: Diving with Coral Reef Sharks in the Bahamas, a video featuring Shedd Aquarium researcher Steve Kessel.

The Shark Trust, where you can learn about everything from how sharkinspired swimsuits got banned from the Olympics to what that “tonic immobility” joke really meant.

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LELAND & SEA Chalki Island in the Dodecanese, near Rhodes

Steve Leland wanders the world in style. Now he’s sailing through Greece on Silversea Cruises.

ruising is a travel experience with layers. Inclusive entertainment, activities, and a variety of amenities all contribute to its growing appeal. Dozens of ships might check the boxes for these elements — but add luxury, deluxe suite accommodations, personalized service, refined gastronomy, and diverse exotic destinations into the mix and the field narrows. Bolstered by a totally inclusive concept and a multidimensional itinerary, Silversea’s 596-passenger Silver Moon meets each of these criteria. Rather than an itinerary confined to a single region, a 16-day cruise of cultural exploration weaves its way through enchanting Greek islands, ventures northward into Turkey (the erstwhile Asia Minor), and makes a call on the Albanian city of Saranda before sailing the Adriatic to Montenegro and Croatia with a finale in Venice, Italy.

Adventures in the Aegean by Steve Leland

After an overnight sail from Athens, the stirring vision of Santorini perched high atop a cliff draped in a blanket of whitewashed buildings leads to a sumptuous breakfast on the suite’s balcony served by a tuxedoed butler. This first morning is just a prelude to the ambiance that becomes the hallmark of the Silversea experience.

LEFT: MASSIMO RIPANI/SIME/ESTOCK PHOTO RIGHT, L-R: SILVERSEA CRUISES; SMALLREDGIRL/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; SILVERSEA CRUISES

A Moon Shines in the Aegean

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[ BEST LIFE ] This modern voyage of discovery is an opportunity to probe the fascinating antiquities and splendor of a region that has attracted intrepid sailors for centuries. Mythology, literature, and the wonders of ancient history define the appeal of the 4,000 fabled islands that dot the Aegean Sea. An exploration of the ruins of Akrotiri, a settlement destroyed by an epic volcanic eruption in 1500 BCE, concludes with a stroll through the labyrinthine alleyways of Thira, Santorini. On the island of Rhodes, The Grand Master’s Palace stands as a testament to the influence of the Knights of St. John, and one can envision the fortified grandeur of ancient Greece by ascending the rock stairway to the Acropolis of Lindos.

Turkish Delight Landfall in Kusadasi, Turkey, sets up a journey of cultural enrichment tracing the footsteps of St. Paul with a stroll along the marble streets of Ephesus that lead to the iconic Celsius Library. Instagram addicts will revel in the indelible photo opportunities that present themselves with every step. As one of the few ships calling on Dikili, Turkey, Silver Moon proffers a rare opportunity to visit the ancient sites of Asclepion and the biblically referenced Pergamon. A cable car zips visitors to the spectacular white-marble remains of the Temple of Trajan on the towering Acropolis.

Starboard library

Santorini

St. George Island in Kotor Bay

TOP RIGHT: The visual wake up call of Santorini perched high atop a cliff draped in a blanket of whitewashed buildings. ABOVE: The breathtaking fjordlike approach to Kotor, Montenegro greets guests with mountain vistas. Traditional coffee in Rhodes

An extended overnight stay in Istanbul reveals the quintessential sights and culinary delights of this bustling, onetime capital of the Ottoman Empire. Visit the famed Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace. Haggle your way through the Grand Bazaar’s tangled web of shops or bask in the warmth of an authentic, 500-year-old Turkish hammam at the restored Hurrem Sultan Hamami. The voyage retraces its way through the Aegean to Katakolon, Greece, and a visit to Olympia, site of the original Olympics. Entering the waters of the Ionian Sea, Saranda serves as a gateway to the expansive ruins of ancient Butrint. The breathtaking fjord-like approach to Kotor, Montenegro, greets guests with mountain vistas, and further up the Adriatic coast, Zadar rolls Sun Deckmat andof sky bar out a welcome Croatian culture before the final destination of Venice.

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LELAND & SEA Being The Man In The Moon

Kaiseke

Gastronomical diversity is emphasized with the ship’s proprietary S.A.L.T. program centered around regional recipes and tastes.

for a ship this size. Gastronomical diversity is emphasized with the ship’s proprietary S.A.L.T. program centered around regional recipes and tastes. With full-service breakfast, lunch, and dinner served in the Atlantide main dining room, the La Terrazza buffet breakfast and lunch venue transforms into an inviting Italian restaurant for la dolce vita dinners with handmade pasta and authentic Italian favorites. The adjacent Silver Note is the perfect setting for dress-up dining with a romantic ambiance. Kaiseke is the perfect destination for sushi lovers and the delistyle ARTS Cafe is a great option for healthy quick-bite snacks, coffee, or tea. The Grill, an alfresco cafe that serves as a poolside comfort-food destination during the day, morphs in the evenings into a trendy concept eatery with full meals cooked on hot volcanic slates served under the stars. In the ritzy La Dame Restaurant, extravagant dining experiences are elegantly staged and supplemented by the chefs’ culinary genius. Evening cocktails in the tastefully designed lounges with easy-listening entertainment offer opportunities to reflect on the day’s port visits. Discerning travelers will appreciate the first-class signature style of Silversea where every detail is personalized by the smiling staff’s genuine desire to serve, creating that feeling of belonging to something extra special. Nothing but smiles and “Good morning Mr. Leland” greet you the second eyes connect. Cruising with Silversea recalls the words to the famous Cheers theme song: “Sometimes you gotta go where everybody knows your name.” 

SILVERSEA CRUISES (X2)

With a broad selection of complimentary excursions, exploring these destinations exceeds expectations but it’s the onboard experience that raises the bar into another realm. What more could be wished for than your personal butler eagerly fetching a cappuccino in the morning, a doting waiter serving an ice-cold prosecco poolside in the afternoon, and a sommelier pouring a vintage wine at dinner? It’s all part of the all-inclusive ultrapremium experience. Enjoy free-flowing wines and spirits in the public areas. Even the in-suite minibars are stocked with complimentary preferred beverages. The 24-hour room service, breakfast on the balcony, and Champagne and canapés at 5:00 make a compelling case for never leaving the luxurious suites, but there’s so much more indulgence to be discovered throughout the ship. The emphasis on culinary creativity is on full display with eight dining venues, highly unusual

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Please DO touch the animals. Experience the world’s most amazing animals in one app. WWF TOGETHER – the new free app from World Wildlife Fund. Download it today. worldwildlife.org/together

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SUITE LIFE

[ BEST LIFE ]

Ice Castles If you’re ready to chill out in regal style, our Top 5 Ice Hotels will keep your next holiday totally cool.

ICEHOTEL

ASAF KLIGER/ICEHOTEL

by Grant Balfour

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guaranteed authentic gold quartz and nuggets

NATURAL GOLD JEWELRY PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA SINCE 1965 SKAGWAY Monarch Jewels 157 A Broadway

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www.orocal.com 800 367 6225 KETCHIKAN Julie’s 224 Front St. Gallery Julie’s at the Promenade Monarch Jewels 38 Front St 425 Water St.

JUNEAU Monarch Jewels 435 S Frankin St.

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SUITE LIFE ICEHOTEL, SWEDEN Every winter since 1989, this luxury hotel has been carved from blocks of the frozen Torne River (although now, there are summer lodgings in non-melting ice rooms). The cleverly crafted standard rooms are impressive, but additional projects elevate Icehotel into a creative accomplishment — like bars serving drinks in ice glasses, suites created by commissioned artists from around the world, exhibits featuring hand-carved ice sculptures, and the Art[ist]ic Table, an outdoor dinner at an ice table designed by artist Anna Öhlund with four-course meals produced by a private chef in a murikka campfire pan. icehotel.com

ICEHOTEL

BOREALIS BASE CAMP, ALASKA The United States’ entry into the winner’s circle isn’t made of ice but it’s certainly icy enough, consisting of geodesic igloos and cubes in 100 acres of wild boreal forest outside the city of Fairbanks. The futuristic dwellings are cozy enough for snuggling, but have transparent ceilings or floor-to-ceiling windows for viewing the unforgettable colors of the aurora during the long winter nights. The sturdy fiberglass igloos are similar to those used by polar expeditions and research stations, and each one comes with a live beverage bar for sharing hot coffee, cocoa, or tea. borealisbasecamp.net

VILLAGE IGLOO BLACKSHEEP, FRANCE There are actually two Villa Igloo locations in the Alps: Village Igloo À La Plagne and Le Village Igloo De Chamrousse. Both are designed with alpine adventures in mind, boasting ski-in access and dog-sledding day trips. But they also boast individually decorated accommodations crafted out of the mountain snow and ice, with spectacular mountain views outside, and plenty of warm blankets and warmer fondue inside. blacksheep-igloo.com

VILLAGE IGLOOO BLACKSHEEP

THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ASAF KLIGER/ICEHOTEL; VILLAGE IGLOO BLACKSHEEP; BOREALIS BASE CAMP. RIGHT: SORRISNIVA IGLOO HOTEL; HÔTEL DE GLACE.

BOREALIS BASE CAMP

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[ BEST LIFE ]

HÔTEL DE GLACE SORRISNIVA IGLOO HOTEL, NORWAY Of all the ice hotels, this one comes out on top — of the map, at least. The northernmost ice hotel is rebuilt every winter with a different theme by a crew of local artists. The doors open on December 20 and close on April 7. In between, guided tours take day visitors to see the incredible ice-and-light sculptures, weddings are performed in the ice chapel, bartenders serve blue-ice drinks at the ice bar, and overnight guests enjoy intricately carved decor unique to each room. You can even get ice sculpting lessons from the local pros. sorrisniva.no

HÔTEL DE GLACE, QUEBEC

SORRISNIVA IGLOO HOTEL

North America’s only ice hotel is open January to March, so make your reservations ahead of time. You’ll be staying in snowy splendor, in rooms adorned with crystal-clear ice sculptures and soft light emanating from the walls. The beds might be framed in blocks of ice, but you’ll remain toasty in ultra-comfy Arctic sleeping bags. Theme suites feature walls carved with festive figures, in-room fireplaces, and even a private hot tub. But every Hôtel de Glace accommodation comes with access to an outdoor ice skating path and a Nordic area with hot tubs and sauna under the stars. valcartier.com  71

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SAIL AWAY

TAHITI Bora Bora is an otherworldly place to visit, a coral atoll with rocky islets — motus — surrounding a protected central lagoon. And traditional architecture is still celebrated in the island’s many hotels, like the Pearl Beach Resort, the Hilton Nui Resort & Spa, and this, the BAMO-designed Four Seasons Bora Bora.

FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS

[ BEST LIFE ]

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To Someone Who Stutters, It’s Easier Done Than Said. The fear of speaking keeps many people from being heard. If you stutter or know someone who does, visit us online or call toll-free for more information.

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