We focus our attention on the East, looking out for what’s new and promising — or at least new to us and promising for our next vacation!
SINCE ANCIENT DAYS , mariners have thought of the east as the direction of new beginnings. In Greek mythology, Eurus, the east wind, waited behind the horizon with his mother Eos, the dawn, who would appear every morning in the east, bringing with her a new day. It might be sunny, it might be cloudy, but whatever it was, it was new. And what’s new today brings with it the hope for even better things tomorrow. For our first issue of the new year 2023, I thought it was appropriate to do as those long-ago sailors did and focus our attention on the East, looking out for what’s new and promising — or at least new to us and promising for our next vacation!
We take a tour of the hip eateries of Istanbul’s Kadıköy district, a savory meeting place of the best flavors of Europe and the Middle East (on p. 12).
For our Roads & Rails department, we ride in classic, Sovietera sleeper cars on the overnight train across Uzbekistan and discover some truly beautiful locations and people (on p. 21).
We travel through the cities of Cambodia like locals do, exploring the generosity and history of this Southeast Asian gem beyond the famous ruins of Angkor Wat (on p. 16).
But of course, we’re interested in everything the world has to offer in every possible direction, from the designer treasures of South America’s fashion leaders (on p. 15) to the slow and steady wisdom of the sloth (on p. 50), and from the classic experience of sailing on an antique Maine Windjammer (on p. 34) to reviewing the first-in-class experiences available on Norwegian Prima (on p. 26).
It’s an issue filled with inspiring ideas for where your next voyage might take you.
Happy travels, whichever direction you roam, and may the wind be at your back!
Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com Facebook.com/PortholeCruise Twitter.com/PortholeCruise Instagram.com/PortholeCruise Pinterest.com/PortholeCruise PortholeCruise.tumblr.com YouTube.com/PortholeCruise YouTube.com/CruiseControlBP Tiktok.com/@portholecruise
A new sunrise, a new year, a new set of destinations to dream about!Istanbul
Judi Cuervo began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular cruise and ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications.
Terry Elward is a writer traveling the world in search of the densest jungle and the finest champagne. Her work has appeared in publications such as International Living, Time Out Istanbul, Taste & Travel Magazine, and on her blog, remarkabletravels.com.
Elizabeth Martinez is a former music and nightlife journalist whose love of writing is second only to her love for traveling and going on adventures. She finally found the courage to leave her upwardly mobile corporate job in order to follow her dream of returning to writing, visiting new places, and perfecting her photography skills.
Lisa Morrow is an Australian travel writer who has lived in Istanbul and other parts of Turkey for more than 12 years. She explores the everyday extraordinary that is life in Istanbul and shares her enthusiasm and passion for Turkey and its people through her travel writing and four books.
John Roberts, operator of InTheLoopTravel. com, calls Colorado his home base while exploring destinations around the world in a fun, fit, and adventurous way. John has written for publications such as AARP The Magazine, Cruise Critic, World of Cruising (U.K.), Travel Pulse, Cruise Passenger (Australia), and TravelAge West
Richard Varr has written for USA Today, AOL Travel, the Dallas Morning News, Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Good Sam Club’s Highways, and AAA’s Home & Away Richard also wrote the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Philadelphia & the Pennsylvania Dutch Country
Bill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief
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Judi Cuervo, Alex Darlington, Terry Elward, Elizabeth Martinez, Lisa Morrow, Steve Leland, John Roberts, Richard Varr, Kate Wickers C ontributing Writers
Adobe Stock, AWL Images, Kate Wickers Contributing Photographers
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FEBRUARY 2023 ISSUE 243
About the cover: Norwegian Prima sailing out of Miami / Adam Hancock
Porthole Cruise and Travel ©2023 Porthole Magazine, Inc.
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Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you’re could ever ask for. visitUSVI.com.
The new Norwegian Prima is a showcase for fresh cruise concepts and unexpected opportunities for fun.
By John Roberts
34 Lobster,
and the Lure of the Sea
Maine Windjammers sail into New England history, zigzagging with the wind.
By Richard VarrWindstar Cruises’ Star Pride has been through a lot of changes.
By Judi Cuervo
04 Letter from the Publisher
05 Contributors
12 Wine & Dine
Istanbul’s hip residential district serves a world of flavors. by Lisa
Morrow
15 Shop Around
From traditional haberdashery to fresh haute couture, there’s a brave new world of looks and lifestyles on the far side of the Panama Canal.
16 Shore Leave
The Kingdom of Cambodia has so much more to offer than the spectacular ruins of Angkor Wat, once you explore like a local.
by Elizabeth Martinez
21 Roads & Rails
Taking a classic train across Central Asia is a journey to a world of wonders.
by Terry Elward
24 Cruise Culture
2023’s newest ships
25 Port Report
Seattle, the emerald city
LIFE
48 Good Vibes
Around the World by Alex Darlington
...with Sloth Wisdom & Other Lessons by Kate Wickers
52 Leland & Sea
This issue, Steve cruises to Ecuador.
by Steve Leland
56 Sail Away
Miami International Boat Show
Cambodia locals travel the cities by motor rickshaws called tuk-tuks.
by Lisa Morrow
Chef Mehmet Semet worked in Norway’s first Michelin-starred restaurant. His Istanbul restaurant Pålegg features a Scandinavian menu based on smørrebrød.
When Constantinople fell in 1453, Kadıköy was a remote rural settlement called Chalcedon. By the late 19th century, the district had become home to people from all over the Ottoman Empire and beyond. There were Turkish-born Muslims, Jews, Armenians, and Greeks, as well as White Russian exiles, Italian stonemasons, and German engineers. They all left their mark through architecture and food, tucked away in backstreets and around the corners in Kadıköy. Here’s where to look.
In Çarşı, the market area near the ferry wharves, crowds traverse narrow pedestrian laneways, teeming with butchers, coffee houses, bakers, fish restaurants, clothing stores, and the like. Small, centuries-old Orthodox churches nestle on corners. At Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir, they’ve been making lokum, chewy morsels of Turkish delight, since 1777, when the shop was founded by a migrant from the Black Sea. The Ottoman Sultans were once amongst their best customers and after the first exquisite bite, it’s easy to see why.
A few blocks away, an elegant, multi-roomed Greek mansion houses the Viktor Levi Şarap Evi, or Wine House. Viktor was a young sardine fisherman who discovered winemaking on a visit to the Aegean island of Bozcaada
in the early 20th century. He started growing his own grapes there before opening the first Viktor Levi Wine House in 1914. Today, guests
can wine and dine in the calm of an interior done out with stylish and cosy booths surrounded by photos of famous diners, or outdoors
in the lush courtyard garden. For a traditional Türk kahve, head for one of the coffee houses lining Mühüdar Caddesi, right in the center of Çarşı. The coffee is made by mixing fine grounds and water together in a tin-lined copper pot called a cezve, and heating it on hot sand. When you’re finished, join the fast-moving queue at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi and buy a bag of freshly ground coffee from Turkey’s foremost coffee supplier to take back home.
Koço mainly serves meze, a word from the Persian meaning “taste.” These small servings of food, both hot and cold, are eaten in place of a full meal. Familiar tastes include white cheese or smoked eggplant. Less well-known are braised samphire or spicy redpepper paste. Meze are always accompanied by rakı, Turkey’s aniseed-flavored national drink.
Crowds traverse narrow pedestrian laneways, teeming with butchers, coffee houses, bakers, fish restaurants, clothing stores, and the like.
Ask anyone in Kadıköy to point you in the direction of Boğa and they’ll know what you mean. This famous statue of a bull sits in the center of Altıyol, the busy “six roads” intersection, and marks the start of Kadıköy’s pedestrian street General Asım Gündüz Caddesi. However, everyone just calls this street and the area around it Bahariye. Taken from the word baharlık, meaning spring-like, it refers to a time when Kadıköy was a summer retreat and people came here to get away from the hurly-burly of the European side of the city. An old-fashioned tram trundles up the center, stopping briefly to let passengers off outside the grand Süreyya Opera House. Inspired by the Champs-Elysées Theatre in Paris, this was built by former Turkish soldier-
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
1. Alfresco dining at Koço can include... 2. dozens of meze, or small plates.
3. Shrimp, potatoes, aioli, and more on a Pälegg smørrebrød. 4. Turkish coffee from Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi. 5. Ice cream is serious business, with... 6. tempting choices of bright flavors sold by vendors.
turned-parliamentarydeputy Süreyya İlmen. The richly decorated foyer and concert hall reflect Art Deco influence and Germanic architectural styles. Local and international operas, ballet, symphony, and other music recitals are performed here year round.
At the far end of Bahariye, drop into the tiny yet perfect Italian-style coffee bar called Çekirdek. The owner roasts 100-percent single-bean arabica sourced from Bolivia, El Salvador, Colombia, and
Brazil on the premises once a week. His irresistible homemade cakes match perfectly.
Locals head to Moda to take in the air and indulge their taste buds. This waterfront neighborhood is loved for its leafy tea gardens and Ali Usta Dondurmacı, where people have been lining up for ice cream ever since they opened in 1969. At Ali Usta it comes in a multitude of flavors and is made using a natural pine gum called mastic, and salep, the ground flour of orchid roots. Choosing ice cream is a serious business in Turkey and everyone has their favorite, served with or without chocolate sauce and crushed nuts. It’s up to you. Opened in 1928, Koço Restaurant down by the waterfront sits above Ayazma de Santa Catalina, an ancient sacred spring.
In Yeldeğirmeni, on the opposite side of Altıyol, architectural treasures built by workers on the Haydarpaşa Railway Station line the streets. A school built for the children of German engineers is in the same row as the Italian-designed Valpreda Apartments, one of Istanbul’s first-ever apartment blocks, near a former French lise built on a pilgrimage site. Now there’s Pålegg, featuring Scandinavian cuisine in a menu based on smørrebrød, designed by a Turkish chef who worked in Norway’s first Michelin-starred restaurant.
On your next trip to Istanbul, make sure to experience some of these neighborhoods of Kadıköy, where tradition and history are equally as important as innovation and change..
Choosing ice cream is a serious business in Turkey.
The Shuar Company offers headwear handwoven from 100 percent toquilla straw in an ancestral technique that UNESCO recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The Tomebamba line adds a splash of color to a classic fedora shape. shuarcompany.com
2. CHILEAN WEARABLE ART: Chalinas Bicolor Shawls are made from warm, lightweight alpaca wool by Aymara artisans from the Tarapacá Region, using traditional Inca colors in high-contrast combinations. artesaniasdechile.cl.
3. ARGENTINIAN LEATHER: Since 1952, Zapateria Guido has made Italian-style shoes by hand. The same attention to detail and top-quality craftsmanship is evident in the Male Sole Backpack, made in contrasting colors of vegetable-tanned shell
4. FRENCH GUIANA’S MOJITO: Rhum agricole is not exactly the same as rum (it’s made from fresh sugarcane juice and not molasses), and a mojito made with Rhums Saint-Maurice’s La Belle Cabresse is decidedly funkier and more flavorful than the Cuban standby. rhums-saint-maurice.com
1 ¾ oz. Belle Cabresse 50° white rhum agricole
1 fresh lime
6 to 8 mint leaves
1 tsp. brown sugar
Crushed ice
Sparkling water
Cut lime into quarters. Squeeze juice into the glass, add quarters. Add mint leaves and sugar. Crush everything with a pestle. Add crushed ice to 2/3 of the glass. Pour white rhum agricole. Top up with sparkling water. Garnish with sprigs of mint.
From traditional haberdashery to fresh haute couture, there’s a brave new world of looks and lifestyles on the far side of the Panama Canal.
by Elizabeth Martinez
THE KINGDOM OF CAMBODIA has so much more to offer than the spectacular ruins of Angkor Wat, once you explore like a local.
LOCATED IN THE SOUTHERN PORTION OF SOUTHEAST ASIA AND SEEMINGLY A WORLD AWAY, CAMBODIA CAN BE AN AMAZING DESTINATION FOR ANY TRAVELER.
Located in the southern portion of Southeast Asia and seemingly a world away, Cambodia can be an amazing destination for any traveler.
It can actually be quite easy to navigate the country’s beaches and mountains, inexpensive lodging, lovely towns and cities, and plentiful food and drink options. Cambodia widely accepts the US dollar (as well as the Cambodian riel), making a visit here even easier. What makes Cambodia extra special, however, is its people. Despite the country’s sad history, Cambodians are inviting, warm, and happy to see foreigners. As the country continues to rebuild, more visitors are realizing that Cambodia is a feast for the eyes, palate, and soul.
Often regarded as having some of the best French architecture outside of France, Phnom Penh is the country’s capital and most populous city. Although tuk-tuks — auto rickshaws — are quite popular in Cambodia, one of the best ways to see this city is by cycle rickshaw. Download the Grab or PassApp and easily call for a nearby pedal pusher. The app can also help you hail a car, tuk-tuk, or maybe even a ride on the back of a motorbike.
Perhaps start your city tour at the Independence Monument, built in 1958. After a few photos, walk to the nearby Wat Phnom temple, an important spot for locals to pray for blessings or just revel in the green space. Then, have a drive along the benches and fountains of Wat Botun park until you arrive at the Royal Palace. The massive king’s compound is worth a photo from the outside at the very least. Snag a snack from one of the street vendors
perched along the riverside, but save room for a visit to the famous weekend Night Market. There, you can find food hawkers showcasing everything-ona-stick as well as flavorful soups and bowls of noodles with meat. One of the most popular, ka tieu, is made with rice noodles and pork (variations feature beef and other meats). Also try Cambodia’s answer to French ratatouille, samlor korkor, a rich vegetable soup usually featuring pork or catfish. Bugs are also on the menu in Cambodia; try fried spiders, worms, small frogs, or crickets … if you dare.
Phnom Penh’s other two famous stall collectives are the Russian and Central Markets. Visit the Central Market to shop for jewelry and other shiny baubles or just to see the 1930s art deco building that houses a good sum of it. The dizzying Russian Market overflows with clothing, housewares, produce, flowers, souvenirs, artisan goods, and never-seen-before food ingredients, but wear comfy shoes, cool clothes, and haggle, haggle, haggle.
victims through photos and artifacts as well as two survivors who spend their days talking about the events and selling books they’ve written about their experience. Meeting them is a highlight on many travelers’ visits. A short trip outside the city is Choeung Ek Killing Fields, one of the many areas where millions of Cambodians were buried. At the field’s memorial, marked by a Buddhist stupa housing thousands of skulls in a clear encasement, visitors are required to remove shoes.
bodia’s answer to Cirque du Soleil, where young performers tell historical stories through music, dance, and acrobatics.
A favorite daytime activity is a guided cruise on Tonlé Sap Lake, where you can see Kampong Khleang, one of the few floating villages not yet over-doctored by outside investors. Here, residents live in colorful stilt homes that help safeguard from monsoons. Everything is done on the lake; there are floating schools, stores, and more.
Amid the hustle and bustle, there is also a melancholic side to this world capital. A visit to the Tuol Sleng Museum (also known as Security Prison 21 or just S-21), is a must. This former school served as one of the more notorious prisons during the genocide but now honors the
Siem Reap was named to commemorate victory in the centuries-old conflict between the Siamese (now Thai) and the Khmer in the 16th century. It’s the ideal home base for anyone visiting Angkor Wat, and the city is easily explored on foot or via tuk-tuk. Get a taste of the city on its most visited stretch, Pub Street. Here, you can find handmade crafts, bargain-priced clothing, and your choice of food and drink. At night, Pub Street is where tourists and locals alike head to party. Stop by a bar (like the graffitied Angkor What?) to enjoy one of the country’s popular beers, Angkor or Cambodia, usually less than US$1. Although there are many local food options, this is also where you can satisfy cravings for a comfort meal from home. Pizzeria Villagio’s pies were a bit mediocre but the curry dishes were fit for a Cambodian king. Slightly off the beaten path, you can stop at Jungle Burger for a sandwich that will rival any in the States. For a less frenetic pace, wander the streets of the Old French Quarter where quieter pedestrian-only walkways offer a great mix of galleries, small cafés, and French restaurants. And for a different kind of night out, buy a ticket (average $15-$40) to the Phare Circus, Cam-
Cambodians buy most of their wares at local markets. Siem Reap’s Phsar Chas (Old Market) is possibly the most popular due to its central location. Like most other markets in the country, the Old Market offers souvenirs, crafts, household items, and many food options. Right across the river from the Old Market is the city’s Night Market, which opens from 4:00 p.m. until midnight and, unbelievably, has some items not found across the way. Stop here for silk as well as the traditional Cambodian scarf known as a krama Relatively new to the market scene is the high-end, fairtrade Made in Cambodia market, offering crafts from Cambodia’s new generation of artisans. Check out the accessories made from recycled cement and fish-food bags for a super unique souvenir. Other not-to-be-missed experiences include the famous foot massage (about US$3) where you dunk your feet for minnows to nibble off your dead skin. Or, try zip-lining at Angkor Zipling for a treetop view, or a quadbike tour for some tuk-tukon-steroids sort of fun.
Cambodia is growing, changing, and rapidly becoming a popular destination. Experiencing the beauty of Cambodia and its people while also braving the monuments to its history make this the perfect place to be a traveler and not a tourist..
Cambodia is a feast for the eyes, palate, and soul.
Cambodia embraces somber truths about its past while celebrating the good things in life, like delicious cuisine, uplifting architecture, and brilliant local color.
Taking a classic train across Central Asia is a journey to a world of wonders.
by Terry Elward
Easy, cheap, and unforgettable is how the overland trip by train through Uzbekistan could be described. This is a unique journey that takes you from the Kyrgyzstan border directly to the Uzbek capital of Tashkent and on to the ancient Silk Road capitals of Samarkand and Bukhara. Whether you’re an art, architecture, history, or nature enthusiast … a foodie or a fashionista … a travel junkie or a trainspotter — there are thrills and adventures to be had in Uzbekistan for every visitor.
I crossed the Uzbek border from Kyrgyzstan by foot and grabbed a seat in a $5 shared taxi to the nearest train station in the city of Andijian, Uzbekistan. Trains run twice daily between the spick and span station at Andijian and the capital city of Tashkent. There are frequent trains from Tashkent to all locations in Uzbekistan, but I decided to take the overnight train from Andijian directly to Bukhara on the other side of Uzbekistan. This
particular one only runs a few times a week; bookings can be made on the official website: https://railway.uz/ en/ (in English).
Uzbekistan Railways has modern, high-speed trains from Tashkent but for the long-distance, slower travel, they still use original Soviet train carriages. These old trains are rare time capsules and a memorable travel experience. All trains in Uzbekistan, like the rest of the country, are extremely safe. There is a first-, second- and thirdclass option. For the very reasonable prices you may as well enjoy the firstclass experience if you are traveling overnight. You get your own sleeper cabin (book in advance for these)
Stations are dedicated to Uzbek culture and life during the Soviet Union and decorated accordingly in a grand fashion.Metro Station
which are comfortable but hardly luxurious, decorated in their original wood paneling, with light switches that are often out of commission and lace curtains on the windows. Complimentary Uzbek tea is provided, as
The train goes through the Fergana Valley then stops at Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, and Nukus. Having passed through this wonderful landscape of farms, mountains, deserts, rivers, and local towns,
you’ll be itching to get out and explore.
is clean bedding. These older trains don’t have phone chargers, so bring a battery if you so wish.
Day-time trips in the shared platzkart are sociable; you’ll meet friendly Uzbek travelers with their families, eager to hear where you are from and how you like Uzbekistan, and who will want to share their delightfully fresh lepeshka bread and sunflower seeds with you. Don’t forget to pick up snacks to share. Each carriage has a buffet car with a dining area and above-average hot meals available: local cuisine such as lagman noodles and chicken, as well as lighter fare. An electric samovar means if you bring your own mug or flask you can have hot drinks throughout the trip.
Toilets are basic, but at least they have them. (BYO toilet paper and wipes, a standard guideline for Central Asian travel.)
Tashkent, Uzbekistan’s modern capital, is a haven of Soviet-era architecture and the seat of government and commerce — a sea of prefabricated Communist apartment blocks and shiny new buildings. Little remains of the city before 1966, when it was hit by a devastating earthquake. While not much of Uzbekistan’s splendid history can be found in the capital, an Uzbek cultural adventure is only a train ride away. You can travel throughout Uzbekistan from Tashkent and continue on to Kazakhstan, Russia, Tajikistan, and, in summer months, Kyrgyzstan.
There is one special feature of Tashkent that makes it worth a day trip: the Tashkent
Metro network. A delight for lovers of Soviet art and architecture, the underground rail system was constructed from the 1960s after the great earthquake, and each station is uniquely themed. Stations are dedicated to Uzbek culture and life during the Soviet Union and decorated accordingly in a grand fashion: cotton production, space exploration, Uzbek poetry, Russian literature, Uzbek art. A Metro ticket costs less than 25 cents for a journey; at this price, you can ride the entire network. And next, for the jewel in Uzbekistan’s crown: magical Samarkand. The Silk Road was an ancient trade route linking China to the Mediterranean, and Sa markand was its most so-
Don’t be afraid to haggle at the bazaars and even shops to get a discount on your items. Bargaining is the norm in Uzbekistan.Left to right: Porcupen/Adobe Stock; Aleksey/Adobe Stock Bazaar in Khiva
phisticated stop. Conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 BCE, Samarkand was a cosmopolitan city with a rich history influenced by its former Chinese, Persian, Greek, Jewish, Russian, and Turkish inhabitants over the years. It became a capital of fine craftsmanship and Islamic religious studies, the legacy of which remains in its beautifully maintained ancient mosques, mausoleums, and madrassa schools, most of which are opened to visitors. The Registan in the center of town is a splendid site to visit, and the Shah-i-Zinde is a UNESCO heritage site right near the city with 400-600-yearold streets bedecked in Samarkand’s famous blue tiles. Save your shopping for the Samarkand Bazaar, where you can negotiate for the best prices, and for a local feast of manti dumplings, salads, kebabs and cold drinks visit the Bibi Khanum Tea House
near the mosque. Samarkand is next to the Tajikistan border, so it’s easy to cross into the Tajik city of Penjikent, with more UNESCO ruins, access to hiking routes in the spectacular Fann Mountains, and wonderful local cuisine.
The last stop was my favorite place in Uzbekistan: Bukhara. This fine city is one of Central Asia’s oldest. At over 2,000 years old, it formed part of the Persian Empire and is home to unique architecture, art, and Islamic study centers with ancient handmade texts on display for visitors. Bukhara is famous for its textile industry; to this day, you can buy some of the best handwoven silks, Persian style rugs, and fine Uzbek cotton in the city — all made in vivid colors and of the highest quality. Beautiful homewares and accessories such as scarves and bags can be bought from as little as $15. Although the rugs can cost thousands, this is still the best place to buy
them for a good price. Don’t be afraid to haggle at the bazaars and even shops to get a discount on your items. Bargaining is the norm in Uzbekistan. The shops in the Bukhara Registan sell beautiful local goods for a good price. Make sure to have the ultimate Bukhara experience in The Silk Road Tea House (5 Halim Ibodov
Street) which is in a beautiful old building and run by a family who have been selling tea and spices on the Silk Road for around 600 years. They sell the finest spices and their saffron tea and cardamom coffee is not to be missed, served with delicious Uzbek sugar.
It’s a sweet end to a memorable journey..
For the long-distance, slower travel, they still use original Soviet train carriages. These old trains are rare time capsules and a memorable travel experience.Lepeshka bread Clockwise from top left: Terry Elward (x2); Iryna/Adobe Stock; Yashkin Ilya/Adobe Stock; Curioso.Photography/Adobe Stock; Alexandr Blinov/Adobe Stock
The cruise world has shifted into high gear for the new year, with more newbuilds sailing than we’ve seen in a while.
Here, in chronological order, is a list of just some of the most notable new ships ready to welcome guests in 2023.
Swan Hellenic’s “cultural expedition” ship SH Diana, the line’s third and largest, will debut in early 2023, cruising the Mediterranean, Red Sea, and East Africa.
Oceania Vista welcomes guests aboard an inaugural cruise on April 14, 2023, from Civitavecchia (Rome) to Barcelona.
The ultra-luxury “Discovery Yacht” Scenic Eclipse II has an April inaugural cruise planned from Lisbon to Barcelona, exploring sites around Spain and Portugal.
The 930-passenger Viking Saturn will launch in April 2023, sailing three new itineraries in Scandinavia and Northern Europe, as well as visiting ports in Iberia.
The Polar Class 6 ship Ocean Albatros joins the Albatros Expeditions fleet in May 2023.
After being delayed from a 2022 launch, Resilient Lady will sail on May 14 around the Greek islands from Piraeus (Athens).
Following a 15-day transatlantic Carnival Journeys cruise from Barcelona that departs on May 29, 2023, Carnival Venezia will sail a variety of cruises from New York’s Manhattan Cruise Terminal.
MSC Euribia, the line’s second LNG-fueled ship, debuts in June, sailing the fjords of Norway before heading to the Med.
Silver Nova will welcome guest in August 2023, sailing round trip from Fusina (Venice). The luxury expedition ship will
cruise the Med before heading to the Caribbean and South America, then heading up north for an icy summer season cruising between Vancouver and Seward.
Explora I, the first luxury ship from MSC’s Explora Journeys brand, sets sail on July 17, 2023 from Southampton, England. The launch was delayed from May due to supply-chain issues.
Emerald Sakara, named for a Sanskrit term meaning “having form” or “thoughts become things,” will set sail August 5, 2023, between Athens and Rome, and sail the Mediterranean until November, when the new ship relocates to the Caribbean.
Norwegian Viva will sail on August 26, cruising
the Med until November, when the ship crosses to New York and then will spend a season calling on Caribbean ports like San Juan, Philipsburg, Castries, and Bridgetown.
American Eagle and American Glory are due to be launched in summer of 2023. The first two sisters in the Project Blue fleet, a set of 12 hybrid catamarans designed for “unprecedented near-shore operating versatility,” will be exploring America’s East Coast.
Polar-class Seabourn Pursuit, the sister ship to Seabourn Venture, is scheduled for delivery in September 2023, and will spend autumn 2023 sailing from South America to Antarctica.
Carnival Jubilee plans late October/early November cruises out of Galveston,Texas, with an onboard rollercoaster as well as an expanded Guy’s Burgers, a larger Patio, and a two-story Red Frog tiki bar.
Regent's Seven Seas Grandeur is set to launch in November 2023 as a sister to Seven Seas Splendor and Seven Seas Explorer. The ultra-luxury ship’s maiden voyage is a planned Barcelona to Miami crossing, followed by tours of the Western Caribbean.
Virgin’s fourth “Lady ship,” Brilliant Lady, will be waiting under for the tree for some cruise fans with an inaugural voyage launching December 24 from Miami to San Juan.
Celebrity Ascent will carry her first guests on December 3. The last of the Edge-class ships departs Fort Lauderdale for the Eastern Caribbean.
Icon of the Seas should be delivered by year’s end, but you’ll have to wait until January 2024 for the maiden voyage of this LNG-fueled leviathan, set to become the largest ship at sea by tonnage (250,800 grt) with room for 7,600 guests in eight neighborhoods spread across 18 guest decks.
All dates are based on the best information available at the time of writing..
inaugural cruisesMorten Bak/Adobe Stock
Seattle, the Emerald City, has facets. It was named for a Duwamish Native American leader, Chief Sealth, whose people settled where salmon were plenty and orcas visited the coast. It grew rapidly during the Klondike Gold Rush, outfitting prospectors heading north to Alaska and providing sophisticated delights for those returning with a few nuggets to trade. It’s the hometown of tech giants like Boeing, Microsoft, and Amazon, and the launchpad for rock superstars from The Sonics and Jimi Hendrix to Nirvana and Pearl Jam. Sure, the bustling port is a major import hub, but the cruise terminal welcomes thousands of visitors, and the waterfront hotels nearby range from the quaint and homey to the utterly luxurious. There’s something here for everyone. A tour of the city’s restaurants gives a clue to the vibrant blend of cultures in this delicious city. Taku, at the top of most locals’ must-try list, is an authentic Japanese eatery that’s also renowned for its fried-chicken burgers. The world’s freshest seafood comes from Pike Place Market, famous as the place where they throw the fish to the scales before wrapping it up. But while you’re there, you can also order a French scallop Niçoise at Place
Pigalle, Bolivian salteñas at Copacabana, and locally made preserves from Johnson Berry Farm. In the restaurantrich Ballard neighborhood, 15 minutes’ drive north of the cruise terminal, practically every corner offers something new to sample.
Things to do in town range from the tranquil to the electrifying. Whale-watching tours can take you out in Puget Sound to meet some of the area’s most massive residents. You can explore 534 acres of tidal beaches, sea cliffs, and forests in Discovery Park. Or plug into what’s in at MoPOP (the Museum of Pop Culture), take in a drag show at Queer/Bar on 11th, sample more than 300 local and international hard ciders at the Schilling Cider House in Fremont, or something a little harder down the street at Fremont Mischief Distillery. If shopping is your pleasure, check out the Insta-worthy cosmetics at Glossier in Capitol Hill, esoteric gifts and apparel at Ritual on East Pike, trendy fashions (and a spa) at the flagship Nordstrom location near the Pacific Place mall in the Downtown district.
Whether you’re up for adventure, getting down with the nightlife, having fun with the kids, or indulging in world-class gastronomy, you’ll find something great in Seattle.
For the pre- and post-cruise visitor, there’s plenty worth treasuring in Seattle, the metropolis of the Pacific Northwest.Cruise ship terminals and waterfront hotels
The new Norwegian Prima is a showcase for fresh cruise concepts and unexpected opportunities for fun.
By John Roberts
orwegian Prima isn’t your typical NCL cruise ship.
Norwegian’s newest ship debuted in Iceland with a naming ceremony followed by an inaugural sailing that showed off a whole new style for the popular cruise line.
Norwegian Cruise Line gets a lot of credit for a bold approach with Prima , its first-in-class ship that features a creative vision for how to design and use space — both inside and out.
After the christening ceremony in Reykjavik, during which ship godmother Katy Perry put on an energetic concert to close out the evening, Prima sailed for a week to Amsterdam, with stops at Cobh, Ireland; Portland, U.K.; and Le Havre, France.
During this time, I got to see the new ship in action and more fully understand what the line is going for with a range of new concepts that include a striking three-story atrium, larger staterooms, and smaller but more distinct neighborhoods around the ship.
Norwegian Prima can carry up to 3,100 passengers, but NCL President Harry Sommer said the line is aiming to make this new class of ships feel more like a high-end boutique hotel experience instead of a busy and bustling cruise ship.
Here's what stands out on Norwegian Prima:
Norwegian Prima’s promenade on Deck 8 is an innovative and bold use of outdoor space that replaces The Waterfront found on other Norwegian Cruise Line ships. It’s out here where the ship really takes on the feel of an upscale boutique hotel rather. Ocean Boulevard features a series of amenities and neighborhoods that connect the indoors with the outside, so cruisers seamlessly enjoy everything the ship has to offer.
Ocean Boulevard is also vital because it has two pools, one on each side of the ship, called Infinity Beach. Because the pool at the top of the ship is so small and with the noise up there from the race track, these two Infinity Pools are the best options for chilling out.
This stunning promenade also features a sculpture garden, dozens of day beds and lounge chairs (located right next to Soleil Bar at the aft end), and the Ocean Walk glass walkway that lets you spy the ocean below your feet. This is also where you find all the outdoor seating areas for the restaurants around Deck 8, such as The Local, Indulge Food Hall, Onda by Scarpetta, and Los Lobos.
The bright and airy Penrose Atrium on Norwegian Prima is the standout design element on a ship that features fewer individual works of art throughout the public areas when compared with other vessels in the fleet. Penrose Atrium is the first tripledecker atrium for the line, with swooping curved staircases connecting Decks 6 to 8. Within the atrium, you’ll find shops, Onda by Scarpetta, the Whiskey Bar, the guest services and shore excursion desks, and Penrose Bar, which is right next to the casino. So, this beautiful atrium area is a real hub of activity during the voyage.
Prima, its first-in-class ship, features a creative vision for how to design and use space — both inside and out.
The ship boasts a well-balanced blend of the old and new, offering different ways to enjoy the things you know you like.
Aside from favorites like Cagney’s, Los Lobos, Food Republic, and Le Bistro, Norwegian Prima features three new specialty restaurants.
Nama is an intimate sushi and sashimi eatery offering table seating as well as a number of seats at the sushi bar, where you can watch items being prepared. Palomar serves seafood and Mediterranean specialties in indoor and outdoor spaces located up on the pool deck opposite the ship’s buffet, Surfside Café and Grill. Hasuki is the ship’s teppanyaki restaurant.
Of note: It will be difficult to get reservations for the specialty restaurants on Norwegian Prima unless you make sure to secure your reservations ahead of your cruise. Among the new venues, we dined in Nama and Palomar during our sailing, and both were excellent additions to the Norwegian lineup.
At the two main dining rooms, Hudson’s (a beautiful space with 270-degree views at the aft of the ship) and the Commodore Room, the menu never changes. This new concept is designed to cut down on food waste. The menu is a big one, though, with a variety of steaks, seafood, and more so that you won’t run out of choices if you choose to eat most of your dinners in these eateries.
In total, there are more than a dozen places to eat on the ship, including the new Indulge Food Hall, a massive venue with 11 separate cuisine concepts. This place was a hit, as it has “food trucks” The Latin Quarter (tostadas) and Tapas, plus the Q Texas Smokehouse (barbecue), Nudls (Asian and Italian noodle dishes), Tamara (Indian cuisine) and Seaside Rotisserie (beef, fish, and poultry), among other free options. Get there early, especially for lunch, so you can secure a seat. You order from a tablet, and waiters keep the dishes coming until you decide you’re satisfied. Indulge Food Hall also is home to one of the ship’s two Starbucks as well as Coco’s, which offers a menu of decadent desserts, including hand-crafted milkshakes. (These two dining options come with a small charge.)
Norwegian Cruise Line brought go-kart racing to the high seas, and Prima Speedway is the biggest track so far. This three-deck complex dominates the top part of the ship. The main pool area is cramped, though, because of the large footprint taken by the race track that rises just above it from Decks 18 to 20.
Racers pay a fee to throw down fast laps on this course, with the squeals of the tires and roar of the engines raining over the pool area. Within the race-track facility, you’ll find a wide range of activities at The Stadium, which has ping-pong, a dedicated pickleball court, and other games. Across the way, Tee Time miniature golf and The Bull’s Eye dart rooms are for-fee activities.
You also can hop (for free) into The Drop and The Rush dry slide rides that drop you from Deck 18 all the way to Ocean Boulevard down on Deck 8 in a matter of seconds.
Prima Theater and Club is an innovative space: a main showroom that converts to a nightclub with a dance floor in the late evening.
We saw it put to use for a Studio 54-style disco party after the brilliant production show Summer: The Donna Summer Musical , a Tony Award–winning biographical extravaganza about the legendary disco queen.
The Price Is Right LIVE is the other big new show featured in the theater. This is just what you think: a game show using members from the Norwegian Prima audience who make their way to the stage to take a stab at nailing the best guess on a price for the items up for bid and playing a series of nostalgic games like Plinko, the Grocery Game and Cliff Hangers.
Overall, the ship boasts a wellbalanced blend of the old and new, offering different ways to enjoy the things you know you like..
In total, there are more than a dozen places to eat on the ship, including the new Indulge Food Hall, a massive venue with 11 separate cuisine concepts.
Maine Windjammers sail into New England history, zigzagging with the wind.
by Richard Varr
Inever quite realized the true meaning of “sea legs” until I stepped aboard the American Eagle. Powerful winds gorged the sails of this nearly century-old schooner, heeling the vessel to one side as it sliced through choppy surf. I hobbled across the slanted deck, cautiously taking every step as I looked out at Penobscot Bay toward the island of North Haven. We’d been sailing for a couple of hours, but it seemed our destination wasn't getting any closer. The crew shifted the sails and I soon found out why.
HOSPITABLE TRADITIONS:
You see (and taste) a different side of New England from the deck of one of Maine Windjammers' sailing vessels, following an itinerary written by the wind and tides.
“That’s the wonderful mystery of sailing,” admits American Eagle Captain Tyler King. “When you have to get right to where the wind is coming from, you have to kind of zigzag your way there.”
It was the second day of a 3-day Windjammer sail, an adventure exploring seaside villages and quiet coves, and passing several lighthouses in and around coastal Maine’s craggy islands. Each sail is different, with captains determining destinations and activities often at the mercy of the fickle New England weather. “There’s no itinerary and there’s no place we have to be,” asserts King.
The Maine Windjammer Association’s working fleet of nine schooners berthed
in Rockland and Camden are all that remain of the 19th- and early 20thcentury vessels that once commanded the fishing and trade routes along the East Coast and beyond. Today, the schooners’ cargo is human — adventurers seeking a true sailing experience on either 3- or 6-day voyages.
Built in 1930, the two-masted American Eagle trawled for fish until 1983, joining the Maine Windjammer fleet and then being recognized as a National Historic Landmark soon after. “She’s the last Gloucester swordfish schooner in existence,” notes King. “She could carry 100,000 pounds of ice per trip. During her first 12 or so years of operation, she caught more than eight million pounds of fish.”
For our cruise, 18 passengers and six crew members actually boarded the night before. In fact, that Friday night of our late September sail was at the precise time Hurricane Fiona ripped through the North Atlantic toward Nova Scotia, a few hundred miles to the east. Although secured snugly, the ship creaked and groaned throughout the night from the wind and subsequent rough tide flowing into Rockland harbor. “That’s just the way wooden boats are constructed,” explained first mate Asher Heaney. “They’re supposed to be flexible to absorb all the shocks and strain.”
Left: Richard Varr (x2); Doug Merriam; Jon Finger StoningtonLIVING HISTORY: National Historic Landmarks can be found on shore and sailing in New England's waterways as they have done for years.
A strong coffee aroma awakened me around 7 a.m. and the breakfast bell chimed just an hour later. Under brilliant sunshine, chilly gusts stalled our journey, but by early afternoon the crew finally yanked the ropes tethering us to shore. The diesel engine rumbled as we chugged past the harbor’s breakwater, a nearly milelong sliver of land capped with the red-brick Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. As we crossed West Penobscot Bay, swells of up to four feet hammered the hull, but the schooner steadfastly glided through them, as I’m sure it had through far worse surf over her more than 90 years at sea.
We welcomed calmer waters when arriving at Fox Island Thoroughfare, a pas-
sageway between North Haven and Vinalhaven islands. We passed Browns Head Lighthouse, its whitewashed façade contrasting sharply with the year-round green conifers — pine, fir, and spruce trees — so typical of these islands.
Come evening, I heard the roar of clanking chains as the anchor dropped in Carver Cove off Vinalhaven. The two-masted Windjammer
J. & E. Riggin also anchored nearby, finding refuge in this calm inlet for the night. It was here that our chefs fired up Maine’s traditional lobster feast with melted butter and corn on the cob. They generously cooked extra, with some passengers eating two lobsters and one crew member boasting he downed seven!
Retiring for the night, it was back to our cabins — tiny and cramped — with tight-fitted bunk beds. But what else can be expected below the schooner’s 92-foot-long deck? While uncomfortable at first, I admit I got used to it by the second and third nights. “We found the best way to deal with this is to just be honest. If people are interested, they’ll come,” King explains. “I grew up on boats so I’m the wrong person to ask.”
Each cabin has a sink with hot water heated by the kitchen’s wood-burning stove. It also took some getting used to having only two bathrooms and one shower on board, the latter hardly used during our 3-day sail.
We traversed East Penobscot Bay to the small town of Stonington at the southern edge of Deer Isle, passing the Mark Island Lighthouse with its fog horn sounding every 10-15 seconds. Over glassy waters, we rowed ourselves ashore where a statue of a stone cutter honored the town’s heritage. “All these islands had big quarries. A lot of the granite in New York City and Boston was shipped out from this area,” noted Heaney. I visited a book store and a souvenir shop, but dominating the townscape is the blue-green Stonington Opera House, listed on
Atop a hill, an odd, standalone window overlooked the neighborhood, serving as a frame for the harbor.Right: Peter Atkinson; Richard Varr The two-masted schooner J. & E. Riggin Hilltop art in Stonington
American Eagle, built in 1930, is the last Gloucester swordfish schooner in existence.
the National Register of Historic Places. Atop a hill, a odd, standalone window overlooked the neighborhood, serving as a frame for the harbor. “It’s a piece of art,” a local told me.
Back on the American Eagle, the crew hoisted the sails for our afternoon journey past the Eagle Island Lighthouse, around Butter and Great Spruce Head islands, and back across East Penobscot Bay. That’s where we zigzagged into North Haven’s calm Pulpit Harbor for the night, its name stemming from the osprey nest at the cove’s entrance, perched atop Pulpit Rock.
In the evening tranquility, we gathered on deck after dinner as Captain King plucked his guitar and read us tales of the solitary lifestyles of Maine’s islanders.
After overnight rain and morning fog, we sailed across West Penobscot Bay under fair skies, arriving back in Rockland before noon. During our adventure, the crew’s husband-andwife chef team prepared hearty meals served on deck buffet-style, including beef stew, curry chicken, and a lasagna feast. Passengers often helped out with raising the sails and cleaning up after meals. And although I cherished the peacefulness, most locations we visited have cell phone service.
“It’s great to see people come forward with some trepidation or questions, and then see them ease into the shipboard routine,” King observed. “I love that we get to do this and keep these old vessels working.”.
“When you have to get right to where the wind is coming from, you have to kind of zigzag your way there.”EFFICIENT AND FLEXIBLE: Windjammers like American Eagle and J.&E Riggin were designed to work with the wind and the weather. American Eagle Left to right: Ben Krebs; Marc Henauer; Don Seymour; Mikael Carstanjen
Windstar Cruises’ Star Pride has been through a lot of changes. After renovation, refurbishment, and literally being stretched, one cruise fan says the new old favorite is just right.
I used to feel like Goldilocks when seeking the perfect-size ship for my next cruise vacation. Those behemoths with a dozen or more passenger decks and thousands of shipmates were overwhelming, while the tiny yacht-like vessels seemed limiting in terms of public spaces and activities. Star Pride, I found, is the answer: A little of slip of a thing that manages to incorporate a whole lot of big ship choice into a compact little 12,995 grt, 312-guest package.
Star Pride gleams beneath the Mediterranean sun as my taxi speeds me to the Piraeus terminal to board the ship’s inaugural sailing. This “inaugural” is just the latest for the luxury vessel that first emerged from the shipyard in 1988 to sail under the Seabourn Cruise Line banner as Seabourn Pride. Twenty-five years later, rechristened Star Pride, the ship joined the Windstar Cruises’ fleet, which soon announced big plans for her (and sister ships Star Breeze and Star Legend ) in the form of the Star Plus Initiative, a complex and aggressive $250 million renovation program that would lengthen the ship by cutting it in half and inserting a new 84-foot section that would add 50 suites, dining venues, an infinity pool, and an expanded gym and fitness center. And the initiative would go behind the scenes as well, replacing the ship’s engines and adding technical bells and whistles that make Star Pride more environmentally friendly. The result, even from a distance, is breathtaking: A stunning ship with classic lines, her only frill the iconic and elegant Tiffany-blue stripe that identifies Star Pride as a member of the Windstar fleet.
Yachts and small ships offer the intimate atmosphere I crave but, with space at such a premium, I’d learned to accept snug accommodations and a bathroom with a cramped little shower that makes leg-shaving an exercise in contortion. Not so aboard Star Pride. Today, I open the door to a generous living space with a queen-size bed dressed in luxury linens, an ample sitting area, and a roomy walk-in closet. My suite has a little Juliet balcony, too narrow for furniture but perfect for gazing out to sea. Even the bathroom is a stunner, completely modernized and as functional as it is beautiful, with a full shower with both hand-held and rain shower options and a selection of high-end L’Occitane toiletries.
Mine is an original Star Pride suite, something that is distinguished by the placement of the bed near the suite’s entrance. Suites added during the Star Plus Initiative feature a sleeping area alongside the window or balcony for those who prefer to wake with a view of the ocean. But, most astonishing of all is that suites aboard Star Pride begin at a generous 277 square feet!
Star Pride’s size allows her to sail off-the-beaten-track to destinations that larger ships can’t even hope to visit.
Is this an optical illusion?? As I roam Star Pride, I find spacious lounges and showrooms, an observation library, specialty restaurants, a quirky alfresco bar, fitness center, spa and salon, sizable deck space, and an infinity pool. How is this even possible aboard such a small ship?
I’ve always believed that there’s nothing that can’t be improved by subtracting thousands of people from it and a cruise aboard Star Pride proves I’m right. With her low passenger capacity, Star Pride has no need for the endless corridors of suites and cabins found on large ships, nor a soaring atrium that rises through multiple decks. What remains is an easy-to-navigate ship that offers in six passenger decks everything that the large ships do (except a casino). It’s perfect for those who don’t want a 20-minute commute back to their suite should they arrive at the pool to discover they forgot their sunglasses. Yet, at the same time, some of the best features and experiences found aboard yacht-like vessels abound. Star Pride ’s retractable marina, for example, opens right into the sea. When weather conditions permit, guests may dive right in, snorkel, water ski, or choose from a collection of non-motorized water toys like kayaks and paddleboards, all at no additional cost. Under sunny skies, Star Pride guests may enjoy events like the Captain’s Welcome and Farewell parties on the open deck rather than in the confines of an interior lounge and ship nerds will be delighted with Star Pride ’s open bridge policy where the ship’s skilled navigation officers explain the technical aspects of getting the ship from point A to point B. And, of course, Star Pride ’s size allows her to sail off-the-beaten-track to destinations that larger ships can’t even hope to visit.
Windstar Cruises’ partnership with the James Beard Foundation clearly demonstrates the line’s commitment to culinary excellence but on an intimate little cruise ship like Star Pride, who’d dream that guests are offered a staggering six dining venues (plus room service and a lavish poolside barbecue) to choose from, all without a pesky surcharge? I sure didn’t. And Star Pride is a decidedly casual experience — dine like a king or queen even in your favorite pair of dress jeans! Veteran cruisers will feel right at home enjoying breakfast and lunch at The Veranda, an indoor/outdoor full-service buffet supplemented by a separate daily menu of specialties. Or they may choose, instead, a lighter menu at The Yacht Club or The Star Grill by Steven Raichlen, the latter an outdoor venue that, at lunch, transforms into a barbecue joint serving luscious smoky choices like shrimp on sugarcane, tea-smoked duck, spareribs, and prime rib, along with burgers, hot dogs, and salads.
In the evening, Star Pride ’s main dining room, Amphora, serves up extravagant classics like beef Wellington and lobster, or simpler fare like roasted chicken, grilled salmon, or a delicious cheesy vegetarian quiche studded with vegetables in a flaky crust. Reserve a table at Candles, Star Pride ’s alfresco steakhouse, for filet mignon, porterhouse, bone-in rib eye or veal chop, or seafood specialties that include branzino, mixed seafood skewer, or the grilled fish of the day. For a continental feast, Star Pride offers Cuadro 44 by Anthony Sasso — my favorite — with a delicious menu of Spanish-accented small and large plates like piquant grilled chorizo, paella croquetas, or extraordinary charred Portuguese octopus. And those looking to pair their dining with superb wines, beers, or cocktails from Star Pride ’s impressive selection may opt for the line’s All In Package, a reasonably-priced plan that also includes all onboard gratuities and Wi-Fi. If Goldilocks is looking for the perfect getaway, I’d suggest she ditch the cabin in the woods and book a voyage aboard Star Pride — a ship that’s not too big, not too small but, in every respect, just right..
Norwegian Cruise Lines has donated a $20,000,000 parcel of Alaskan waterfront property to a Native-owned corporation to help the travel industry expand.
The donation is both generous and practical, since the money will go toward the construction of a new pier in Juneau. The corporation, Huna Totem, is owned entirely by Alaska Natives.
Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings’ executive vice president Dan Farkas says, “This partnership will provide the dual benefit of driving positive, sustainable economic impact to the region while ensuring that the development of the land is done in a respectful way.”
Cruise company Northern Xplorer is teaming up with Portuguese ship builder West Sea, to do the unthinkable: They’re creating a ship that will operate entirely free of harmful emissions.
West Sea is building the 250-passenger vessel using an all-electric propulsion system, which includes advanced batteries for power storage and hydrogen fuel cells for power generation.
Northern Xplorer CEO Rolf Andre Sandvik calls it “a new milestone” on the journey toward pollution-free cruising.
West Sea manager Vitor Figueiredo says, “We’re proud to be taking a lead in building such an innovative and technologically advanced vessel.”
It will be ready in less than two years.
For the first time ever, a residential ship will be powered by carbon-neutral methanol — a dramatic development in making our oceans cleaner and safer. The Ocean Residences superyacht Njord is being built at the German shipyard Meyer Werft and will employ a combination of e-methanol and bio-methanol.
The fuel will give the Njord access to Norway’s environmentally sensitive areas.
“Although this technology comes at a cost, we’re confident that the investment will pay big dividends for our shared environment,” said Kristian Stensby, Ocean Residences’ chairman and CEO.
One of shipping’s biggest environmental hurdles is water — not the water ships float on, but the water ships carry around as weight to float upright. That ballast water can unintentionally carry unseen critters far from home, leading to problems like the zebra mussels that clog up power plants along the Great Lakes and Mississippi River. BIO-UV Group, a global leader in the field of environmentally protective water-treatment, has signed on to deliver a revolutionary system to treat ballast water in two state-of-the-art cruise ships.
The ships, Ilma and Luminara, are now being built by Chantiers de l’Atlantique for the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. “These premium ships are at the cutting edge of environmental technology,” says Maxime Dedeurwaerder, Business Unit Director of BIO-UV. “Advanced, UVbased ballast-water treatment will safeguard our oceans from invasive non-indigenous organisms.”
by Kate Wickers
In Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica, a three-toed sloth is climbing a monkey-pot tree with its baby clinging on. It’s a slow-motion ascent, like watching an astronaut take first steps on the moon, as it stretches a long arm, curls a clawed hand around a branch, and then stops. “Ah, it’s nodded off again,” our guide explains. “In Costa Rica, things take time. This animal may be slow, but in conserving energy it increases the chance of survival.” Turns out that even the sloth’s metabolism is sluggish, with the animal only going to ground level to def-
To curb my teenage sons’ instincts to race at breakneck speed, we go deeper into Tortuguero National Park by kayak to explore smaller tributaries only wide enough for slender craft. We glide through a topsy-turvy world of black reflective water (the color comes from tannin leaked by the vegetation) and it’s just our happy laughter, the call of a yellow-crested night heron, and the splash from a disappearing otter to break the peace.
Juan, our guide, is thrilled
ecate once weekly so that it can remain safe in the treetops away from predators (a fact delivered enthusiastically by all Costa Rican tour guides). This small Central American country (at 19,700 square miles, it’s a little smaller than West Virginia) cradles five percent of the earth’s biodiversity. It’s home to several types of tropical rain forest, including mangrove and cloud, inhabited by around 500,000 animal species. Watching the sloth, I’m reminded of my pledge to practice slow travel by connecting to this country and culture in an unhurried way.
at this rare sighting of an otter. “To see it so deep in the park tells us that the eco-system here is thriving. Pura vida!” he exclaims. You hear the saying “pura vida,” meaning “pure life,” all the time in Costa Rica: used as a greeting, to wish someone well, and as an exclamation of joy. I’m soon uttering the phrase like a local and nowhere more so than on the beach after dark as we wait for the arrival of green and loggerhead sea turtles; some 22,000 come annually to nest on this stretch of coastline as they have
done for a millennium. It’s both a humbling sight and a moving reminder of how, post-pandemic, the world continues to turn.
The green turtle’s flippers appear cumbersome instruments for the digging of a large pit in which to deposit the eggs, bringing a new dimension to the word labor. Then, exhausted, she returns to the sea as the park ranger imparts these wise words: “She may be slow in the sand, but in the sea she’s a marathon swimmer, travelling over one hundred miles a day. Life is not about getting somewhere fast. It
Watching the sloth, I’m reminded of my pledge to practice slow travel by connecting to this country and culture in an unhurried way.
A trip to Costa Rica’s nature reserves can leave you happier and wiser.
is about quiet determination. That will take you the furthest in the end.”
I sense her relief as the first wave washes over her shell.
From our temporary home at Boena Wilderness Lodges, we travel on to Monteverde, climbing 4,600 feet to where a cloud forest clad in bromeliad waits to be explored, filled with creatures such as resplendent quetzals, giant stick insects (some more than 20 inches long), armadillos, and mot-mots, the recyclers of the forest, that build their nests in the trunks of dead trees. The
great British naturalist, Sir David Attenborough once said, “What I am interested in with birds, just as I am with spiders or monkeys, is what they do and why they do it.”
I’m curious too, as we watch the orange-kneed tarantula stand sentry outside her burrow to protect her young in the Aguti Reserve.
“Our footfall disturbed her,” Grievin, our guide, explains. “She’s not looking for trouble, but she will strike if her spiderlings are under threat.” Her nifty defense mechanism is to fire toxic hair from her abdomen.
“Not so different from
someone else I know,” my husband jokes. I wasn’t expecting to bond over mothering with this arachnid but strangely I do. The symbiotic relationship that Costa Ricans have with the environment and the animals, birds, and insects that inhabit it is evident everywhere we visit, and particularly at our last destination of Turrialba, in the central highlands. Here, cacao producer Aldo Sanchez points out the perfect, tiny, triangular nest of hummingbirds woven from leaves and flowers that are hanging from the cacao plants. “Any polli-
nator is welcome here,” he tells me. “Even the smallest bird or insect has a job do to. Like humans, they must all find a purpose in life to be happy.”
He pulls off the cover of a fermentation tub filled with small flies. “These fertilizing midges do an excellent job for me at this stage of production.” They may not have the appeal of the sloth or the splendor of a toucan, or call for attention as a howler monkey does, but all credit to them, Aldo’s chocolate is the most delicioso I’ve ever tried (and I make a silent vow to never again swat a fly)..
Steve Leland travels the world in style. Now, he’s exploring the Ecuadorian coast — and inner space — with Kontiki Expeditions.
by Steve LelandThe chant of the colorful village shaman permeates the tranquility of the forest as smoke billows from the altar’s centerpiece. We stand silent and mesmerized as he gently slaps our bodies with fragrant leaves doused in sacred water and dabs a mystery oil into our outstretched palms. Only 30 minutes earlier, we had been engrossed in the bustle of the early morning fish market on the shores of Puerto Lopez on the coast of Ecuador … yet here we are immersed in a purification ritual handed down over centuries by the Manteño people. It has become obvious that this is a cruise far removed from ordinary.
To say that I have a penchant for off the radar travel adventures would be an understatement of enormous proportions. My cruise moods swing like a pendulum, seeking excitement mingled with personal solace. I’ll extol the virtues of yacht cruising one day and gear up for a big ship cruise the next. The one constant is that I love exploring new places and engaging in new activities, and I’m always up for gastronomic gluttony all while being coddled in luxury. Impossible to please?
Never.
Enter Kontiki Expeditions and their first boutique-style yacht homeporting in Manta, Ecuador. The beautiful Kontiki Wayra cruises the unexplored Ecuadorian coast, visiting ancient communities, beaches, and ecological reserves. The yacht has been designed with contemporary flair and the nine exclusive staterooms feature luxury accoutrements. Entering the Wayra through automated twin doors reveals the stylish coziness of the lounge and dining area. Breakfasts and lunches with Ecuadorian specialties are served buffet-style, but when the sun sets on days ashore colorful plating and full-service dinners feature local seafoods as well as steaks, pork, and chicken followed by delectable desserts.
The yacht has been designed with contemporary flair and the nine exclusive staterooms feature luxury accoutrements.
While the ship meets a high standard for comfort on board, it’s the program of complimentary excursions and activities that sets this cruise apart. Ports that rarely see cruise guests offer stimulating, authentic experiences. Imagine a morning of snorkeling with curious sea lions, and an afternoon witnessing the multigenerational traditions of local potters as they assist in creating your own piece of pride from raw clay.
The very next morning in the tribal village of Agua Blanca, a community descended from the Manteño people, visitors can view thousand-year-old funeral urns discovered after the El Niño flooding of 1982 and hike along a dry riverbed. After lunch, the afternoon’s snorkeling outing at Sucre Island is shared with hawksbill turtles and parrotfish.
As the sun rises on a new day of adventure, we hike the trail on Isla De La Plata with a park naturalist. Sometimes referred to as “the grandmothers of the Galapagos,” nesting blue-footed boobies are the star attractions in viral Instagram posts. In the afternoon, snorkelers watch in awe as giant manta rays breach out of the sea, then look down for more incredible underwater sights below.
Blue-footed boobies are the star attractions in viral Instagram posts.Left: Ammit/Adobe Stock Right top to bottom: Steve Leland; Kontiki Expeditions (x2)
In addition to the excitement of the included excursions ashore and snorkeling adventures, Wayra has a full complement of water toys. Slipping over the side of the yacht and zipping down the massive inflatable water slide is a thrilling experience, and the oversized floating platform lowered into the sea provides convenient access for paddleboards and kayaks. Four SeaBobs — high-tech motorized water scooters — glide guests across and under the waters of the Pacific.
While the immense diversity of Ecuador can be experienced through its people, culture, and ecology, agricultural sustainability is in the spotlight during a visit to an organic cacao farm. Visitors walk through verdant trails of fruit trees, herbs, and other plants before witnessing the amazing processes used in making chocolate, one of the country’s largest exports.
Extending the concept of diversity to food, guests are treated to a multi-course Michelin-style tasting lunch at the culinary institute Iche. The flavors of Ecuador come alive in brilliantly plated dishes prepared by aspiring chefs with ceviches, salads, empanadas, and main courses thrilling the taste buds.
Interaction is encouraged in an outdoor cooking class held by the school’s students as guests hand-grind roasted corn kernels, peanuts,
chili pepper, and spices to form a fine, granular base. Meanwhile, hand-rolled yuca dough filled with cheese is roasted in a large, heated bowl resembling a tandoori oven. The baked bread is then topped with the powdered base resulting in the traditional sal prieta con pan de yuca.
On the last day of the cruise a 2-kilometer hike through the splendor of an Ecuadorian rain forest keeps participants on the lookout for howler monkeys. It becomes a trail of amazement as a family of the primates playfully jump from tree to tree directly overhead, while medicinal and nutritional uses for tropical plants are explained by a knowledgeable naturalist.
In the village of San Lorenzo, the lovely private residence of Casa de Luccio is the setting for a fitting finale. A trio perform traditional dances in the elegant, sand-floored courtyard while chefs prepare fresh lobster over
a flaming grill. Starting lunch with wahoo ceviche, savoring the lobster, and finishing with a delectable dessert, there is still more to come. A hosted chocolate tasting is entertainingly narrated by an expert. If there was ever an Ecuadorian souvenir that was a must have, it would surely be the inimitable toquilla, more commonly known as the Panama hat. Internationally recognized master weaver Domingo Carranza demonstrates the skill of weaving these stylish handicrafts. With a hat in hand, the cruise may have come to an end but these memories will linger forever. An expedition is generally described as a journey taken for the purpose of learning something new and this intrepid itinerary boldly checks that box. For those that are passionate about expedition travel, the barefoot comfort of Kontiki Wayra incorporates just enough “neo-luxury” into an authentic immersive experience with a deep focus on cultural exploration..
If there was ever an Ecuadorian souvenir that was a must have, it would surely be the inimitable toquilla.
In February 2023, the world’s largest boat show brings pleasure craft of all sizes, from kayaks to superyachts, to the waters of Biscayne Bay. If you happen to be cruising out of PortMiami, take a look around and you might see some surprisingly sleek watercraft going through their paces nearby. You could even head down to one of two marinas and take a vessel for a test drive.
Ending racial injustice requires all of us to work together and take real action.
What can you do to help?
Educate yourself about the history of American racism, privilege and what it means to be anti-racist. Educate yourself about the history of American racism, privilege and what it means to be anti-racist.
Commit to actions that challenge injustice and make everyone feel like they belong, such as challenging biased or racist language when you hear it.
Vote in national and local elections to ensure your elected officials share your vision of public safety.
Donate to organizations, campaigns and initiatives who are committed to racial justice.
Let’s come together to take action against racism and fight for racial justice for the Black community. Visit lovehasnolabels.com/fightforfreedom
Whether you love adventuring with the sea breezes at your back, or prefer travelling the world through great stories and gorgeous photography, you’ll absolutely love Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine.
