04.2023
Bill Panoff is Out There with a new globe-spanning cruise and travel show
Flying colors: Birds of the Caribbean
Seeing Southampton past the cruise port
Kitty on deck: A ship cat history
Renew with an experience like no other. With its colossal gulf, magnificent landscapes and incredible wildlife, the world’s third-largest river is a true wonder of nature.
Renew with the nine splendid ports of call along the 2,000 kilometres-long river. Each of them has something unique to offer. Charming villages, rolling farmlands, bustling cities, a
fjord, and smooth beaches are dotted along the way. Arts and culture lovers, festival goers and nature enthusiasts alike are bound to have an unforgettable experience.
Let your guests discover the history, the heritage and the people of Québec and renew with our “Best Bienvenue”. The trip of a lifetime awaits. Renew with the Saint Lawrence. Again and again.
Photo : Mathieu Dupuis
Every issue of Porthole, we try to celebrate the best things in the world. That seems like a grandiose statement — even childish — but it has always been the goal here. Those of us who make the magazine and those of you who read it all love travel. We love to discover pristine waterfalls and grand hotels, fantastic local foods and breathtaking vistas, brightly colored birds in the jungles and majestic humpback whales among the icebergs. We love the mountains and the oceans, especially as seen from a ship far out at sea. So, we always look forward to Earth Day every April as a way to remind us of every amazing thing out there in every corner of the world.
In this issue, we take you on an Earth Day shopping trip with gifts that support the environment and all the people who live here on Earth (see p. 26). We appreciate the many natural locations to go birdwatching across the islands of the Caribbean (see p. 56). Our ship review (on p. 34) follows a peregrine falcon flying alongside the expedition ship Ocean Victory as it repositions from San Diego to Costa Rica.
We also explore some of the world’s best-kept secrets and best-known treasures. A train journey along the Via Emilia (on p. 20) serves up Italy’s famous regional delicacies, while a journey to Cartagena (on p. 16) reveals a Colombian culinary renaissance as it unfolds. We sail in beauty with “cosmedical” treatments aboard cruise ships (on p. 42), and we peek into an often-overlooked history right under visitors’ noses in the port of Southampton (on p. 28)
And of course, here at Porthole we’re planning our hosted cruise down the Danube on AmaMagna on August 13. I’ll be on board, sharing cruise experience and stories as we all explore the wonderful sights, sounds, and flavors of Europe together. Come cruise with us! See page 59 for more details!
Wherever on Earth you go, and whatever beauty you find there, I hope Porthole inspires you to appreciate our planet in new ways with every issue. And, as always, happy travels!
Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com
Earth Day means more … the more you’ve seen of Earth.
Olly Beckett began his career working in the cruise industry and now writes for various publications about his experiences traveling through 85 countries and all seven continents by any means possible — trains or planes, bus or bike, cruise or camel.
Suzanne Carmel is a freelance travel writer based in Chicago. Her articles have appeared in The Columbus Dispatch, Home & Away, Elite magazine, Endless Vacation, Interval World, and others. She finds that traveling to faraway places is a welcome contrast to city life and looks forward to future exploration around the world.
Katie Jackson was raised on a 1,500-acre farm in Montana before attending college in the concrete jungle of New York City. When she’s not walking her 150-pound Leonberger or trying to figure out why her bike is making that mysterious noise, she’s writing. Her work has been published by Esquire, USA Today, The New York Post, The Sunday Times, Travel + Leisure, and Outside Magazine
Bill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief
Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director
Grant Balfour Managing Editor
Skip Anderson Art Director
Sara Linda Proofreader
Olly Beckett, Suzanne Carmel, Alex Darlington, Evan Gove, Katie Jackson, Steve Leland, Angela Minor, Kevin Revolinski, Eric Paul Roorda C ontributing Writers
Adobe Stock, Alamy Stock Photo, AWL Images, iStock Photo, Evan Gove, Kevin Revolinski, Unsplash C ontributing Photographers
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Steve Leland, a former cruise director, has been cruising the world for the past 40 years. Bringing a new dimension to cruise journalism, he continues to spin the globe searching for off-the-grid cruise adventures and unplugged destinations to share with Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine readers.
Angela Minor is a freelance travel writer and contributing editor for print magazines and blogs. She has lived in and journeyed across the continental U.S., Alaska, the Caribbean, and seven European countries over the past three decades. Her enchantment with cruises began on her first voyage in 1978 aboard SS Emerald Seas
Kevin Revolinski has lived abroad in Italy, Panama, and Guatemala, writing for Rough Guide guidebooks, Caribbean Travel & Life, Chicago Tribune, and Wisconsin State Journal, as well as a memoir, The Yogurt Man Cometh: Tales of an American Teacher in Turkey
Eric Paul Roorda, Ph.D., is a maritime historian from the Lake Huron shore of northern Michigan. His books include The Ocean Reader: History, Politics, Culture (Duke University Press, 2020), and Cats At Sea from A to Z (Amazon/KSP, 2023). He has served as a lecturer on 12 different cruise lines over more than 20 years.
Bill Panoff CEO/Chairman
William P. Jordan III President
Audrey Balbiers-Panoff Chief Operating Officer
Piero Vitale Chief Financial Officer
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Stephanie Davies V P Digital Marketing
Soren Domlesky Director of Technology
APRIL 2023 ISSUE 244
About the cover:
Bill Panoff experiences French Polynesia with Paul Gauguin Cruises. aboard the beautiful Paul Gauguin
Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2023 Porthole Magazine, Inc.
ISSN: 1070-9479
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All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com.
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Ocean Victory provides the comforts of a luxury line with the wildlife and enrichment you’d expect from an expedition cruise.
By Evan Gove
For many passengers, the quest for eternal youth continues at sea.
By Katie Jackson
Our feline friends have a long history of service at sea — including on cruise ships.
By Eric Paul Roorda
08 Contributors
16 Wine & Dine
Cartagena’s acclaimed restaurants let Colombian kitchen traditions shine.
by Suzanne Carmel
20 Roads & Rails
The trains of the Via Emilia take travelers into a wonderland of Italian flavors.
by Kevin Revolinski
26 Shop Around
In celebration of Earth Day, browse a selection of gifts that have been made beautifully and sustainably.
28 Shore Leave
Let a Southampton local show you how to get the most of a stay in this popular homeport — a historic city often overlooked as a destination in its own right.
by Olly Beckett
32 Shore Thing
A new video series is bringing the best of Porthole to the small screen.
54 Good Vibes
Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington
...with Best Ports for Caribbean Birding by Angela
Minor60 Leland & Sea
This issue, Steve cruises on Viking Neptune by Steve
Leland64 Sail Away Alaska
Cartagena’s acclaimed restaurants let Colombian kitchen traditions shine.
by Suzanne Carmel
IT’S A SULTRY, STORMY WEDNESDAY NIGHT IN EARLY SEPTEMBER and Cartagena’s streets near the historic walled city are temporarily flooded. There isn’t an Uber or taxi to be found, yet a reservation at Celele Restaurant awaits us. Thirty frantic minutes negotiating with hotel staff, truncated phone calls, and a stroke of luck later, we pull up beside the restaurant’s vibrant blue façade. Inside, chefs Jaime Rodriguez Camacho and Sebastian Pinzon Giraldo create masterpieces, engaging all senses and showcasing the very best regional flavors. Rain still pours down, yet every seat is filled.
The sophisticated menu — a result of the chefs’ Proyecto Caribe Lab, a 4-year research initiative to “make visible the gastronomic culture and biodiversity of the Colombian Caribbean” — includes offerings such as house-cured marlin ham, Caribbean flower salad, fresh corn bollo stuffed with fish stew, goat kebab, cassava bread with sesame butter, and fresh coconut and ylang-ylang sorbet. The presentation is exquisite, the food sublime.
“Celele’s culinary proposal is contemporary cuisine inspired by the gastronomic culture and biodiversity of the Colombian Caribbean territory,” says Rodriguez. The offerings are a reference for “how to use and what to use from the pantry of the Caribbean.”
Little more than a decade ago, a new Cartagena began to emerge, letting local ingredients, recipes, and traditions tell the culinary story of this northern South American country. “This is a great moment for Colombian gastronomy,” says Gilberto Salcedo, tourism vice president at ProColombia. “We are increasingly enjoying greater international recognition as a gastronomic tourist destination.”
Salcedo characterizes Colombian cuisine as preserving ancient culinary techniques while maintaining high standards in line with knowing the origin of each dish and its traceability. He says the focus now is on responsible consumption and the use of native varieties.
On Colombia’s Caribbean coast, and in the port city of Cartagena, in addition to the rich resources from sea and land, the influence is a combination of European, indigenous and African heritage. Expect to find dishes such as cheese mote — soup made with yam and pieces of costeño salty cheese; carimañola — long yucadough fritters stuffed with cheese or ground beef; arepa e’ huevo — fried corn arepa with an egg inside; and coconut rice — prepared with coconut milk and sweetened with panela and white sugar.
“Colombian cuisine is very diverse because of the territory,” says Veronica Socarras, an expert in culinary tourism who frequently works with local chefs and as organizer for gastronomic festivals. “We are in a privileged
Andes. As a result you can find many species of plants, animals, and other ingredients that are amazing for gastronomy.”
Tourists can sample local cuisine at acclaimed restaurants such as the aforementioned Celele, La Cocina de Pepina, Restaurante Candé, Carmen Cartagena, Maria, and Misia by Leo Espinoza. Christian Sepulveda, owner of La Cocina de Pepina, carries on his late aunt’s legacy by maintaining her menu of traditional recipes, first introduced when the restaurant opened in 2009.
Colombian cuisine is very diverse because of the territory
... with two oceans, all of the climates, and the Andes.
A new Cartagena began to emerge, letting local ingredients, recipes, and traditions tell the culinary story.Roasted chili sorbet with honey
Dishes on the menu include gallina monteriana — boneless hen in coconut juice; posta cartagenera — meat with a sweet sauce made of wine, panela, red onion and tomato; escabeche de berenjena — sliced eggplants preserved in oil with lemon, cumin, and bay leaf; and boronía — a mixture of eggplant and ripe plantain.
“When we first opened the restaurant in Cartagena, there were many French, Italian, and Peruvian restaurants, but
celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2022. Carmen Angel met her husband, Rob Pettis, at Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in San Francisco. The co-founders took a contemporary food concept and combined it with Colombia’s great biodiversity, highlighting local flavors and working with small producers and artisanal fishermen. They work with the abundant seafood supply, and many associations and cooperatives of small producers supplying sesame, cocoa, colored corn, different seasonal fruits, yams, yuca, and more.
“The cuisine in Cartagena has evolved in a drastic way,” says Angel. “We have seen in the last 10 to 15 years a greater appreciation for the local product, as well as for food that was part of ancestral traditions. When we begin to value the past and understand the cultural context of how we ate, we can begin to change the thinking of ‘What is a cool concept for this restaurant?’ and ‘How do I interact with this territory?’
herbs, and biche, the distillate of Pacific cane sugar.
Another way to experience the best of local cuisine is through in-depth food experiences and tours. Silversea’s Silver Moon offers new activities within their S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) program including visits to Bazurto, Celele, a high-cuisine private dinner, as well as the Foundation Granitos de Paz, known for its food-security and incomegeneration program.
Foodies, a local tour company founded by Cartagena native Maria Gutierrez in 2013, offers more than 50 experiences ranging from street food tours, to tours of markets or restaurants, themed dinners, cooking classes, and parties.
“We know that the future of our cuisine lies in generational transmission,” says Gutierrez.“For that, it is necessary that new cooks and farmers see their parents’ work as a profitable business that generates pride.”.
the local cuisine was very neglected,” says Sepulveda. “That is the idea of the restaurant: to rescue all those recipes that have been forgotten because the new generation either doesn’t cook or their parents didn’t have time to cook at home. Our idea is to preserve a legacy.”
Another restaurant, Carmen Cartagena,
whether I am from here or I am visiting as a tourist.”
In addition to a wide menu, the innovative bar service at Carmen also highlights local products like corozo wine and drinks from ancestral distilleries — such as chirrinchi, made from fermented panela and
“That is the idea of the restaurant: to rescue all those recipes that have been forgotten ... our idea is to preserve a legacy.”
We have seen in the last 10 to 15 years a greater appreciation for the local product, as well as for food that was part of ancestral traditions.Pez Palma Carmen Cartagena La Cocina de Pepina team Copa Sisisi Top Left: Tato Gómez (2) Bottom right: La Cocina de Pepina (2)
Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you’re could ever ask for. visitUSVI.com.
Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you’re could ever ask for. visitUSVI.com.
Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you’re could ever ask for. visitUSVI.com.
The trains of the Via Emilia take travelers into a wonderland of Italian flavors.
by Kevin Revolinski
Dubbed the Food Valley of Italy, the region of Emilia-Romagna lies just north of Tuscany. Two millennia ago, Romans laid out the Via Emilia connecting cities from Piacenza, southeast of Milan, to Rimini, on the Adriatic Sea. Most will recognize regional city names in their own kitchens: Modena of balsamic vinegar fame, Parma of Parmesan cheese, and of course
Bologna. Of the more than 300 PDO and PGI products* in Italy, EmiliaRomagna has more than any other region with 47.
Today, the cobblestone road of the Romans is asphalt, and frequent high-speed and local trains now follow the route, creating the perfect DIY train trip for foodies and history buffs. Fly into Milan or Bologna and get on the rails.
Parma is a bouquet of glorious Romanesque buildings, including the fresco-filled 12th-century cathedral.
Cycling past the Church of Saint John the Evangelist in Parma
bistro and outdoor terrace where you can sip their dry lambrusco while admiring the hills and vineyards. They also produce small batches of balsamic vinegar.
lent city views. Eat paper-thin cuts of mortadella (bologna) and the traditional tagliatelle alla Bolognese. Better still, learn to cook it yourself at Il Salotto di Penelope. Congenial instructors will
Listed by UNESCO as a Creative City of Gastronomy, Parma is a bouquet of glorious Romanesque buildings, including the fresco-filled 12th-century cathedral and the towering pink-marble baptistery full of frescos. Attend a classical concert at the 19th-century opera house, Teatro Regio. Inside the redoubtable brick Palazzo della Pilotta is the impressive National Gallery and an archaeology museum.
What to sample in town? Tortelli d’erbetta (pasta filled with herbs and ricotta) or cappelletti, little stuffed pasta hats in broth. For a snack (or an in-room DIY charcuterie board), visit Salumeria Garibaldi to buy Parmegiano-Reggiano cheese, some of the uncooked, unsmoked, drycured ham prosciutto di Parma (aged 14-36 months), and culatello di Zibello, an even rarer cured ham made only with the rear muscle of the haunch.
The brilliant, white, 12th-century Romanesque cathedral — and its bell tower with a view — stand at the center of the city. A block away, locals shop and tourists ogle at the historic Mercato Albinelli showcasing the local produce, cheese, wines, and meats, but also offering quick meals and simple snacks.
The Enzo Ferrari Museum will thrill car enthusiasts (as will the factory and another more F1-focused museum outside the city), and opera fans should visit Pavarotti’s Home Museum.
The Spilamberto Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum is a must, providing good guidance for when you are ready to buy the real deal – not the cheaper variety blended with red wine vinegar. A pure 100ml (3.34 oz.) bottle starts at €60 and can be carried on a plane.
Hire a car or a guide to drive to where the flatlands suddenly fold up into hills worthy of Tuscany. This is where the vineyards begin.
Opera 02 is an estate winery and boutique hotel with a gourmet
Home to Europe’s oldest university, Bologna is a UNESCO City of Music and the City of Porticos: the streets are lined with sheltered walks, including the entire 2-mile pilgrimage to the hilltop San Luca Basilica. Visit the expansive Basilica of San Petronio with its large sundial and staggering frescoes of Paradise and the Inferno. See the city’s dual leaning towers and climb up the 319-foot Asinelli Tower for excel-
have you making Bolognese sauce, fresh pasta, and stuffed cappelletti to be eaten at the end of the lesson.
A 2,000-year-old Roman bridge commissioned by Tiberius is the start of the Via Emilia. In this beach town, seafood is the star of the menu. A fortress that once served as a prison is now a museum dedicated to legendary director and native son Federico Fellini. Watch the sunset over the city from a breakwater point by the sea. Take dinner at one of the several fine seafood restaurants across the bridge in Borgo San Giuliano, a colorful restored
A 2,000-year-old Roman bridge commissioned by Tiberius is the start of the Via Emilia.Left: Peter Adams /AWL Images This page clockwise: Eduardo Estellezstock.adobe.com; Porcupenstock.adobe.com; Kevin Revolinski
fishing village with many off-the-path murals and art. From here, it’s possible to follow the Roman Via Flaminia south to Rome, or to turn north toward two of this region’s other delicious destinations.
Famous for its exquisite early Christian mosaics, Ravenna boasts UNESCO honors for eight separate sites — including the Basilica of San Vitale — for colorful pieces dating back to the 5th and 6th centuries. Each evening marks a public reading from Dante’s Divine Comedy in front of his tomb. The story of the battle for his bones makes it worthwhile to contract a guide for a walking tour. Have a handson experience with the mosaic tradition at Barbara Liverani Studio, where the artist will guide you through the process of making your own beautiful souvenir.
Caption?
A UNESCO “Renaissance City,” Ferrara can also provide a relaxed stay for a night or two. Tour the 6-mile city wall by bicycle – no hills, no cars allowed in the historic center. See the detailed white marble façades of the Cathedral. Order a glass or bottle of a PDO Romagna Sangiovese at the oldest wine bar in the world, Al Brindisi, where Polish astronomer Copernicus once roomed upstairs as a student. Try the salama da sugo, a local ragù made with slowcooked and reduced sausage served over potato puree, at Michelin-honored family restaurant Trattoria da Noemi..
The
Museum will thrill car enthusiasts (as will the factory and another more F1-focused museum outside the city).
NORTHERN EXPOSURES.
Iñupiaq photographer Brian Adams and Anchorage Museum Director Julie Decker take readers on an Arctic tour in I Am Inuit. This collection of vivid portraits and personal stories from 20 communities of Alaska Natives defies expectations as it reveals 21st-century life among people who call the icy wilderness their home.
FIND IT HERE
SMARTER PHONE.
Mylo makes beautiful “unleather” objects out of mushrooms, replacing cow hides with a material that’s easier to grow and every bit as durable and flexible. Japanese artisan leather brands Tsuchiya Kaban and Objcts.io collaborated with the mycelium-based unleather-maker to create an exclusive line of stylish, functional iPhone cases.
FIND IT HERE
GOOD SCENTS.
Solid perfumes are made with rich blends of essential oils and all-vegan ingredients, free from parabens and synthetic fragrances. With aromas like anise-forward Green Fairy (blended with throat and crown chakras in mind) and the citrus, patchouli, and lavender of Hermitage (infused with the earthy energy of the tarot suit of pentacles), these invite a little magic into your life.
FIND IT HERE
NATURALLY PRECIOUS.
Cloud Haven is a Dallas-based design collective that uses ethically sourced freshwater pearls, natural gemstones, and high-quality handmade beads to construct wearable art. The Wondering Set brings together gemstones, black pearls, 14k gold accents, and handcrafted black bear and gorilla beads in beautiful harmony.
FIND IT HERE
On April 22, more than a billion people celebrate Earth Day. Every one of us really can make a difference, so we’re suggesting a selection of gifts that have been made beautifully and sustainably. #earthdayeveryday
Almost 2 million people cruise from Southampton annually. However, many who come to the U.K.’s most popular cruise port rush to tourist destinations such as Stonehenge or Windsor Castle which involve hourslong journeys. What are they missing in this port city?
I grew up near Southampton and took the city’s sights for granted. Having since viewed the port as a cruise passenger, I realized that there’s much to see and do here that would appeal to those who have a day or two to linger.
Although not immediately apparent, Southampton is an ancient city. Beneath the area in which my beleaguered soccer team plays was found one of Europe’s greatest hauls of Saxon artifacts. More obvious signs of the city’s history can be found at the Bargate, a grand stone gatehouse built into the medieval town walls circa 1180 CE. Follow a well-signposted walk along remnants of these immense walls and along the way you’ll come across Tudor buildings and the Westgate, through which
Henry V marched his troops on his way to France and Agincourt.
Maritime history is a core part of Southampton’s identity. At Town Quay, you can see a memorial commemorating the Mayflower pilgrims who set off from here bound for America (Southampton’s 2,300-seat main theater is named after the famous ship). Sailing out of the city, you’ll pass the dock from where Titanic departed; there’s an impressive Titanic exhibition in SeaCity Museum, located in the Civic Centre just a 10-minute walk from the main train station.
Let a local show you how to get the most of a stay in this popular homeport — a historic city often overlooked as a destination in its own right.
Olly Beckett
Walk along remnants of these immense walls and along the way you’ll come across Tudor buildings and the Westgate, through which Henry V marched his troops on his way to France and Agincourt.
Five hundred and forty-nine of the crew members who perished in the Titanic disaster were from Southampton, and a grand memorial to the liner’s engineers can be seen in East Park, five minutes’ walk from SeaCity.
over the road from where ferries depart for the Isle of Wight. Inside the Tower you’ll find art exhibitions and glimpses of the city’s past (free entry). Art galleries can be found throughout Southampton, but the largest is Southampton City Art Gallery, located close to SeaCity museum. Entry
is free and the collections include famous 18th- and 19th-century British paintings.
Moving on to culture of a different sort, Southampton is home to 33,000 university students; the nightlife here is therefore plentiful and varied. Vying for the title of Southampton’s oldest pub, the Duke of Wellington is a fine place to stop for a pint — 530 years of customers can’t be wrong.
Visiting architecturallycelebrated Westquay feels as though you’ve already stepped onto one of the large cruise ships that dock nearby. There’s a huge choice of entertainment and dining options and the mall has a fine selection of shops, not least John Lewis — the perfect place to buy gifts. From John Lewis’ café you’ll get a good view of the cruise terminals, and there’s an even better view from the canteen in Southampton’s prominent IKEA.
Southampton was a key departure point for WWII Normandy landings, as well as a manufacturing center for crucial Spitfire aircraft. You can view one of these famous planes in the Solent Sky aviation museum, just southeast of the city center and close to the vibrant Ocean Village area. Among the other aircraft on display are Southampton-built seaplanes, including a legendary recordholding racer.
The 13th-century God’s House Tower recently won an architecture award for its extensive yet sensitive restoration. It too can be found along the city walls,
The Duke of Wellington is a fine place to stop for a pint — 530 years of customers can’t be wrong.
SouthamptonLeft to right: Denys Holovatiukstock.adobe.com; Steve Vidler/ AWL Images
I realize that I’ve now suggested enough activities to fill multiple days. If you’ve yet more time, I highly recommend taking the 15-minute train journey from Southampton Central to Brockenhurst in the New Forest National Park. Here ponies, donkeys, and cattle roam free among trees and moors. From Brockenhurst you can walk along easy-to-
follow trails, hire bicycles, or even take a horse-riding tour across this protected landscape.
In the opposite direction to Brockenhurst, it’s a 17-minute train journey from Southampton to Winchester. This 2,000-yearold city was once the capital of England and you’ll find here a wealth of historic sights, all of which are easily reached on foot. The cathedral is undoubtedly the
most impressive building. Don’t miss the crypt in which lurks a statue by artist Anthony Gormley.
In the city’s 13th-century Great Hall you’ll see King Arthur’s table … although it’s a replica that “only” dates to Henry VIII’s time. For shoppers and shutterbugs Winchester’s stores line a high street that is considerably more photogenic than Southampton’s.
After a busy day, Southampton has a fine choice of hotels in which to rest, from the functional and convenient Ibis to the boutique Pig In The Wall, set in those magnificent city walls. Whether you visit Southampton to shop, see ancient capitals and national parks, or absorb the history, you’ll never be far from the cruise terminals which can be easily reached either by foot or short taxi ride. .
Discover the Costa Daurada and the spectacular archaeological legacy of Roman Tarragona, the Tarraco archaeological ensemble, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Fall in love at first sight with Catalan Modernism in Gaudi’s hometown of Reus, or with the amazing Poblet monastery. Try outstanding wines and cavas and don’t miss a funfilled day at PortAventura World, home to three of Europe’s leading theme parks.
cruises@porttarragona.cat
tarragonacruiseport.com
A new video series is bringing the best of the magazine to screens you can watch from anywhere, so we ask our publisher and editor-in-chief what to expect from his on-camera adventures @cruisetravelbp.
IF YOU’VE BEEN CLOSELY FOLLOWING PORTHOLE CRUISE AND TRAVEL ONLINE, you might have noticed something that’s been happening since last summer. Bill Panoff, who wears the hats of publisher and editor-in-chief in the magazine’s offices, has added a new hat to his collection: producer.
He’s brought a camera crew along for his cruises to Alaska, Antarctica, the USVI, Israel, New England, Canada, St. Kitts, St. Maarten, and (aboard the beautiful Paul Gauguin) Tahiti. He’s interviewed local experts and shown off the attractions of each destination, introducing newcomers to famous landmarks and showing experienced travelers some secret treasures. Since the shows have started taking off on YouTube and other outlets,we thought we’d ask Bill what’s in store
Q: What made you decide to pivot toward video?
Q: What made you decide to pivot toward video?
A: I’ve been doing video all along! As far back as the early 2000s, we had PortholeTV, and more recently I’ve been producing my own travel tips and interviews for social media as Cruise Control with Bill Panoff. But this new venture is much more in line with what Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine does: professional coverage of cruise lines, destinations, and experiences you can only get in specific places around the world.
Q: So it’s like the magazine and then some?
Q: So it’s like the magazine and then some?
A: What it is is Porthole Plus We’ve been calling them Cruise and Travel Shows, but we’re also thinking about it behind the scenes as Porthole Plus Porthole, plus moving pictures, plus drone photography, plus action, music, and voices. If there was a way to get the flavors through the camera, we’d do that too. It’s not a supplement to the articles in every issue. It’s more independent content with the same style, the same level of execution.
Q: Where are you looking forward to going next?
Q: Where are you looking forward to next?
A: By the time this appears in the magazine, I should be on the Mississippi River, cruising aboard American Queen from Memphis to New Orleans. What I’m looking forward to the most there is three things.
Elvis is at the Oscars this year, so touring Graceland and listening to all the music of Memphis and New Orleans is a must. I love the food of the South, especially since American Queen Voyages has teamed up with “Biscuit Queen” Regina Charboneau. To be honest, what I’m hoping for is some barbecue, shrimp and grits, and sazeracs. Most of all, though, I think what I like the best about a Mississippi River cruise is the chance to enjoy some of America’s most beautiful natural surroundings. The cypress trees in the bayous just seem so wise and calming.
Q: So after this cruise, you’ll be ready to take it easy for a while?
Q: So after this cruise, you’ll be ready to take it eas for a while?
A: Not at all!
There’s too much to see!
First, our crew goes to Saint Croix to explore some of the fantastic food, beaches, and historical sites there.
Alaska on UnCruise, exploring Glacier Bay but also some of the sights on land around Juneau.
Then I’ll be taking viewers along in the Mediterranean aboard Oceania (really looking forward to their dining program) and Atlas Ocean Voyages.
But after that, I’ll be taking the crew on Ponant’s expedition ship Le Commandant Charcot up to Greenland and seeing a part of the world most people only ever experience as a place on a map, right near the top. If I can spot a narwhal, I’ll be happy.
Finally, we’ll be moving from the Arctic wild to the civilized surrounds of Europe’s great cities along the Danube. I recommend everyone who loves anything about travel experience that route at least once, because it has everything a cruiser loves refined to the highest possible degree, whether it’s fine wines, local cuisine, beautiful art and music, sophisticated shopping districts, gorgeous architecture, and so much Old World charm and hospitality. Everything except the sea spray.
Q: Anything else you think we need to know?
Q: Anything else you think we need to know?
A: I look forward to seeing you wherever you like to watch videos!
I’m sure you’ll learn something new with each program we do..
If there was a way to get the flavors through the camera, we’d do that too.Le Commandant Charcot
Ocean Victory provides the comforts and amenities of a luxury line with the wildlife and enrichment you’d expect from an expedition cruise.
by Evan Gove
Ocean Victory is very much an expedition ship, complete with a fleet of Zodiacs, a bank of microscopes, and a team of naturalists and guides to educate those aboard on all things flora and fauna.
Having never looked a falcon in the eye before, I wasn’t entirely sure what to do. Creeping up to the thick, sliding-glass balcony door which separated us, I took stock of the bird’s intricate feather patterns and lethal talons as it lounged indifferently on the balcony railing. The creature I would come to understand was a peregrine falcon sensed movement as I carefully slid back the privacy curtain. It cocked its head and zeroed in on me behind the glass.
Only on an expedition cruise, I thought to myself.
The falcon, just like me, had made itself at home for the time being on a ship called Ocean Victory as it sailed south from San Diego to Costa Rica on a repositioning cruise. The expedition ship, operated in the summer months by American Queen Voyages, entered service in 2022. After a successful first season in Alaska, it was now headed to the opposite side of the world for cruises to Antarctica where its other charter provider, Albatros Expeditions, would take over operation.
Repositioning cruises are common enough, even preferred for some cruisers, but I’d never taken one on an expedition ship before. And Ocean Victory is very much an expedition ship, complete with a fleet of Zodiacs, a bank of microscopes, and a team of naturalists and guides to educate those aboard on all things flora and fauna, plus a whole lot more.
The wildlife platforms fold down from the unique X-Bow hull and provide guests with a close (but not too close) look at the wildlife.
Sleek and stylish with a unique two-tone blue hull, Ocean Victory clocks in at 342 feet in length and holds just under 200 passengers in a variety of stateroom options, ranging from those with porthole windows to the deluxe suites on Deck 7 featuring the largest private balconies on board. The rooms are spacious, even on the lowest decks, but a highlight of the ship is the ample outdoor lounge space. From the pool area aft to the forward observation deck, there’s plenty of vantage points from which to enjoy the surrounding environment even without a balcony stateroom at your disposal.
Guillaume, the bird expert amongst the crew, explained to curious guests that the falcon had most likely mistaken the ship for an island and made it a base camp of sorts for hunting. For those not lucky enough to have a private viewing on their balcony, Ocean Victory ’s wildlife platforms offered another opportunity to watch the falcon as it circled the ship. Found forward on Deck 5,
fovea. It didn’t need them to see me just a few feet away. I supposed it could probably clearly see the faint coastline of El Salvador in the distance, particularly while floating on the air thermals high in the sky as it honed in on its next meal. Thankfully, I didn’t have to work that hard for my next meal. A modern expedition ship deftly intertwines the salty spray of a Zodiac tender ride with sophisticated decor and high-end amenities. Guests feel like they’re on an adventure, but also aren’t far from a four-course meal that could be found on any luxury ship at sea. Dishes like Pan Seared Halibut, Grilled Duck, Crepe Florentine, and Grilled Parmesan Polenta delighted guests and an alwaysavailable menu of prime sirloin, chicken, salmon, and lobster allowed for a truly unique dining experience for every meal. Another highlight of each American Queen Voyages cruise aboard Ocean Victory is, once per sailing, a lunchtime deck barbecue with items hot
the wildlife platforms fold down from the unique X-Bow hull and provide guests with a close (but not too close) look at the wildlife of the world’s most isolated and impressive locales.
Capable of seeing a mile in the distance and with the ability to track three moving objects at once, a peregrine falcon’s eyes have a kind of telephoto lens on the retinas called a central
off the grill like ribs, roasted chicken, and even a full pig roast with various barbecue sauces for each. Also available during the barbecue were burgers, sausages, a full salad bar, roasted vegetables, and fresh breads. On another day, the sushi lunch was also notable as the quality and freshness rivaled any eatery you’d find on land or at sea.
Sleek and stylish with a unique two-tone blue hull, Ocean Victory clocks in at 342 feet in length and holds just under 200 passengers.Grilled lobster tail Clockwise: American Queen Voyages (3); Evan Gove
There are a variety of stateroom options, ranging from those with porthole windows to the deluxe suites on Deck 7 featuring the largest private balconies on board.
Prior to dinner, the expedition team hosted a daily debrief where guests learned about the next day’s happenings while enjoying hors d'oeuvres and sipping their cocktail of choice. The meetings, both informative and entertaining, were also a great opportunity to swap stories of the day with your fellow travelers. The falcon was often the topic of conversation as a new guest invariably came strolling into the lecture room armed with numerous photos and videos of the bird of prey. Hosted by the team of guides, the evening meeting is also where guests learn about the day to come, like instructions for shore excursions and information about what to expect in the next port of call.
Shore excursions are an integral part of any expedition cruise and American Queen curated experiences ranging from casual, like a salsa-making demonstration, to those more athletic, like mountain biking, snorkeling, and even deep-sea fishing. Mexico’s west coast is dotted with tourist meccas like Cabo San Lucas and Puerto Vallarta, but calls in smaller ports like La Paz or Huatulco offered a more authentic Mexican experience from the food to the sights and sounds of daily life along the Mexican Riviera. Whether we were making chocolate from cacao beans in Tuxta Chico along the border of Mexico and Guatemala, or floating down Costa Rica’s Tempisque River in Palo Verde National Park, American Queen provided adventure, enrichment, and lots of fun during the many shore excursions throughout the cruise.
A repositioning cruise on an expedition ship may seem strange, but thanks to a ship packed with all the right gear and amenities, Ocean Victory turns every stretch of sea into something to be explored and enjoyed. .
, on Holland America’s newest ship, Rotterdam, ready to get Dysport, a not-so-distant cousin of Botox, on a cruise ship. And it’s not my first time.
Five months ago, I spent $500 to smooth out my forehead on Celebrity Beyond. That was my inaugural injection at sea. Still, cruise ships have been offering what I like to call “cosmedical” procedures since 2008. That’s when the spas aboard Norwegian Cruise Line changed the name of the game by introducing the “medispa.” For the first time in cruising history, passengers could get Botox on board.
By 2009, Holland America was advertising its own medispas. Today, every major cruise line has them. In fact, Carnival has medispas on 22 of its 24 ships. And the spa operators on Oceania Cruises, a line which doesn’t sail a single ship without a medispa, have had to expand the size of their facilities — and hire more doctors — to keep up with demand.
OneSpaWorld, the world's largest provider of aesthetic services, is the owner of these medispas, working in conjunction with their cruise partners to provide medispa services at sea, including Botox and Dysport as well as dermal fillers.
Please consult with your onboard medispa to see which treatment is right for you.
In 2008, for the first time in cruising history, passengers could get Botox on board.Left: Valentina R.stock.adobe.com; panya7stock.adobe.com Right: Holland America Line
Greenhouse Spa
Forehead lines
Crow's feet
Smile lines
Neck lines
It’s not just the promise of a crease-free forehead that has passengers like me signing up for a medical procedure on a ship. Medispas offer an array of treatments, including CoolSculpting which freezes and eliminates fat cells, microneedling which is basically aesthetic acupuncture, and the relaxers and fillers which turn a prune into a plum. Dr. Andrea Cecelia Navarro Campos, the only crew member authorized to give injections on Rotterdam, tells me she gets plenty of passengers coming in for lip fillers. “And they’re not millennials asking for duck lips,” she adds. “They’re women in their 60s who simply want a place to put their lip liner.”
Meanwhile, Carnival is receiving so many bookings for its latest pilot program, IV therapy, the line is considering rolling it out on more ships. IV therapy, or “drip treatment,” features vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients being injected with a hydrating saline solution directly into the veins.
While IV therapy is still relatively new, these days every ship’s medispa sells brighter smiles. In 2015, when I sailed on Crystal Cruises’ maiden voyage across the Northwest Passage, I made an appointment to get my teeth whitened. I showed up, willing to drop $200 on the express treatment, only to have them tell me my teeth were already pretty darn white.
When I show up to Rotterdam’s medispa, the spa manager, who looks to be about my age, does tell me I don’t have enough wrinkles to warrant Dysport, but she does offer me an alternative: Thermage: a more thorough nonsurgical facelift (that’s also the most expensive treatment on most ships’ medispa menus).
On average, Dr. Navarro Campos does this non-invasive skin tightening once a week, and she’s only ever had women request it. She shows me the before and after photos of a passenger in her early 70s who recently had it done. I have to admit, the results are dramatic. The woman basically went from Betty White to Vanna White, overnight.
Still, I decline Thermage. However, I seriously consider the cheek filler they offer me next. Dr. Navarro Campos holds a mirror up to my face and points out where my cheeks, which have lost
because they could lead to bruising. Then she has me sign a waiver with a book’s worth of fine print at the bottom. I don’t bother reading it, but I do acknowledge there are risks. After all, the main ingredient in Dysport is abobotulinumtoxinA, and in Botox, the magic ingredient is onabotulinumtoxinA, toxins made by the same microbes behind botulism.
I don’t think Dysport will kill me. If I experience any side effects it’s likely to be swelling or bruising. That said, if Dr. Navarro Campos injects too much Dysport in the wrong spot, I could have a droopy eyelid for a month or two. She assures me this seldom happens. Next, she has me raise my eyebrows so she can mark my deepest furrows with a makeup pencil. These seven spots will be her injection sites. When I ask about numbing cream, she tells me I don’t need it.
volume over the years, could use a boost of collagen. I ask her how much it is. “It’s $800,” she says, “But if you do the cheek filler and the Dysport I can give you a 20 percent discount.”
It’s a tempting offer. But for now, I only have the budget to tackle the folds on my forehead. The $400 plus 18 percent added gratuity I’m paying on Rotterdam is comparable to what I pay for Dysport and Botox on land.
First, Dr. Navarro Campos asks me if I’m on any blood thinners. They would be a deal-breaker
The needle is tiny, and each jab feels like a sharp pinch that only lasts for two seconds. Somehow, despite the 6-foot waves we’re sailing through — it’s so windy all of the outside decks are closed — Dr. Navarro Campos is steady on her feet. Her hand never wavers, and a few minutes later, I’m booking a follow-up appointment for a few days later. Unlike filler, the results of Dysport (and Botox) aren’t immediate.
While I’m all for instant gratification, I know that in 5 to 7 days I’ll be able to raise my eyebrows without resembling my neighbor’s bulldog. And in the meantime, there’s no downtime. Dr. Navarro Campos gives me the green light to exercise, lay down, and — most importantly — drink alcohol. Still, I pace myself when it comes to the cocktails. Rotterdam’s medispa doesn’t offer IV therapy … yet..
A few minutes later, I’m booking a follow-up appointment for a few days later.
By Eric Paul Roorda
Our feline friends have a long history of service at sea — including on cruise ships.
ats have always gone to sea. Mariners have long realized the advantages of having a feline shipmate, or more, mainly to reduce the number of rats onboard. Cats can be seen in ancient Egyptian depictions of reed rafts on the Nile. The Vikings brought along Norwegian forest cats, a big, exceptionally furry breed, on their voyages to North America, where they became the ancestors of Maine coon cats. Captain James Cook insisted on three sea cats as part of the crew on each of his ships during his three epic voyages of discovery.
Cats were so ubiquitous on ships that they were scarcely noticed unless they somehow drew attention to themselves. Such was the case on one of Benjamin Franklin’s many trips across the Atlantic, when a little bird alighted on the deck far from land, fascinating the great scientist. Franklin cared for the wayward bird and noted his observations of it in his journal, until the ship’s cat ate it, which he also noted, the only time he mentioned the predator’s presence on the vessel.
It was natural that, at the dawn of the cruise ship industry, there should be cats on the luxurious passenger liners that morphed into “cruise ships.” Samuel Clemens — Mark Twain — adored cats. He constantly sought out feline companionship, keeping a healthy supply of pets at his house, renting litters of kittens from a local farmer while vacationing, and sometimes bringing them along on the many, many transAtlantic passages he made in his life. Twain embarked on a round-the-world voyage in 1895, beginning a 13-month lecture tour that took him to India, Australia, and South Africa. In his resulting book, Following the Equator (1897), he described the leg of the voyage he enjoyed most, which was a long Indian Ocean passage onboard the well-appointed passenger liner Oceana. The idyllic weather and pond-like sea-state made for long, lazy, luxuriant days at sea, which began, Twain noted, when the ship’s cat and her kitten would emerge on deck for their morning ablutions. On that voyage, Twain could often be found in a deck chair, with Oceana’s ship cat and kitten in his lap.
MARITIME MAN
MARK TWAIN
During the Golden Age of passenger liner travel, pets frequently came along with their wealthy owners. But the popular travel writer Harry Franck advised against the practice in his 1927 guidebook, All About Going Abroad: “Chief among THINGS NOT TO TAKE ABROAD are pets... Animals must be boxed or caged before they are taken aboard... Transatlantic passage for dogs is from $20 up, for cats, birds, and other small pets, from $5 up. Special quarters and care are provided, but none are allowed in the stateroom.”
was more than a cruise enthusiast (as chronicled in Innocents Abroad) and crewmember (as commemorated in Life on the Mississippi). He also wrote about the virtues of feline companionship on board an Indian Ocean passage in Following the Equator
Emmy was the beloved ship’s cat of RMS Empress of Ireland, the flagship of the Canadian Pacific Steamship Line, plying a regular route between Canada and Great Britain. She left the ship, as she was accustomed to do, when the passenger liner docked at Pier 27 in Quebec City. But this time, when the ship was due to sail again the morning of May 28, 1914, she climbed onto the roof of a building and refused to come down.
Despite the increasingly desperate efforts of superstitious crewmembers, she would not be lured back aboard before the ship’s departure. Empress of Ireland steamed down the St. Lawrence River to its broad mouth on the Atlantic Ocean, where the next morning it ran into fog, and soon after that ran into the SS Storstad, sinking quickly. Just over one thousand of the 1,477 souls on board drowned, but Emmy was not among them. Because of the disaster, Empress of Ireland is known as “Canada’s Titanic.”
The photogenic Ginger was popular with the passengers aboard the White Star Line’s Arabic. They sometimes bought postcards of her as souvenirs of their transAtlantic passages. The luxurious Arabic is known for being torpedoed by a German U-boat on August 19, 1915, during World War I — one in a series of high-seas incidents, along with the better-known sinking of Cunard Line’s Lusitania, that led to the United States entering the conflict. Ginger had already made her final crossing, and was not on board when Arabic went to the bottom.
The identical Hungarian-American twins called the Dolly Sisters were a hit in The Ziegfeld Follies, and went on to become the only doppelfläpper act of The Roaring Twenties. Their wild private lives saw them carom across the Atlantic from the racy casino lifestyle of Deauville, France, to the racy speakeasy lifestyle of New York City. They traveled in style, adopting the gem of the legendary Cunard Line as their trans-Atlantic home: the Aquitania, nicknamed “The Ship Beautiful” for good reason. The opulent Aquitania had it all, almost — but it lacked one thing, in the eyes of the Dolly Sisters: cats. So, they brought their own, two of them, sisters, of course, and gave them as a gift to the ship, which the good-natured captain broke regulations to accept! Also named The Dolly Sisters, the cats roamed the vessel freely for years after, attracting as many admirers as the famous flappers themselves, who were often among the ship’s company.
Gradually, as the 20th century went on, cats fell out of favor on the liners we now call cruise ships. There must be umpteen health regulations against them, now. But am I the only devotee of cruises who thinks that is a shame, and a missed opportunity?
Like Mark Twain, I would delight in a cat’s companionship during a voyage, and I suspect there are legions like me. Perhaps there will be dedicated “Cat Cruises” in the future, when passengers can choose their own “cabin cat” from a full kennel of them, and cats and cruisers will coexist on the open decks. Let us hope..
The MSC Cruise Division has just taken a giant step toward its ambitious goal of achieving net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050: They’ve launched MSC World Europa and are looking forward to MSC Euribia, two ships powered entirely by liquid natural gas (LNG).
LNG is the cleanest, lowestemission marine fuel yet developed.
It releases only about half the CO2 of coal and drastically reduces nitrogen oxide emissions. And it emits zero soot, dust, or fumes.
What’s more, LNG produces far less sulfur dioxide or mercury than other nautical fuels, making it cleaner all around.
The achievement doesn’t come cheaply. MSC has invested more than $3.10 billion in World Europa, Euribia, and another ship currently in development.
Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.
Eighteen shipping companies have received awards for helping to save rare and endangered whales by slowing their speeds off the California coast. The companies, which include COSCO, Maersk, MSC, Hyundai Glovis, and Swire, are voluntary participants in a program called Protecting Blue Whales & Blue Skies, which began on May 15, 2021. They agreed to transit at 10 knots or less in the waters between San Francisco’s Bay area and Point Arguello in Santa Barbara County. Deadly collisions between ships and endangered bluefin and humpback whales are all too frequent in this area and the speed reduction is making a huge difference.
Windstar Cruises has partnered with Coral Gardeners to help restore imperiled coral reefs and to educate guests about the importance of coral. The cruise line began its efforts with a $35,000 donation to Coral Gardeners for increasing awareness, supporting conservation activities, and creating effective solutions.
Coral Gardeners is an organization that’s growing, planting, and monitoring thousands of heat-resilient corals. The project began in October 2022 as part of a celebration of Windstar’s 35th year of sailing to Tahiti an French Polynesia. It’s the only cruise line that visits there year-round.
Guests sailing the region in 2023 or 2024 will receive a card in their cabins offering them the opportunity to adopt a coral for a $35 donation.
Green City Hotel, located in the Vauban District two miles south of the Freiburg, Germany, city center, is dedicated to both ecological sustainability and inclusiveness.
The Vauban District itself is known as an environmentally conscious area, and The Green Hotel fits right in. Right on the border of the legendary Black Forest, its 48 double rooms and family suites are designed with preserving the environment in mind. Each
room is built using materials from the region –including locally grown green wood slats. What’s more, 50 percent of its workforce is comprised of disabled people. And three of its luxurious rooms are specifically disabled-friendly .
by Angela Minor
The sparkling aeronautical acumen of hummingbirds. The well-dressed elegance of stilts. The improbable beauty of spoonbills. The quiet patience of owls. The impressive problem-solving skills of parrots. The talented musical stylings of thrushes. And, the epic stamina of terns. Hundreds of these species can be found near Caribbean ports of call. So, pack the bins and let’s go birding!
Launch your Caribbean birding adventures in an unexpected spot –the heart of the city of Freeport. The Rand Nature Centre, just a short ride from port, is a sanctuary for birds from painted buntings to bananaquits and a testament to human conservation. Explore 100 acres of protected lands, rich with native flora and fauna, via 2,000 feet of paths and boardwalks. Selfguided walks and tours with experts are available. Stop by the visitor center for educational exhibits, local art, and information about this island’s most accessible national park.
Turtle River Park / The Turtle River Fall & Gardens
Stroll a short distance into two lush tropical environments located along the Turtle River. First, relax in the 7-acre public park alongside manicured flower beds and ponds while pointing the binoculars into the foliage. Then, head into a natural river-gorge rain forest at the Falls & Gardens. The Turtle River cascades down 14 waterfalls across 15 acres. For an up-close experience with native birds, spend time in the large, walk-in aviary. It’s a “free-flight” structure where you might coax a local feathered friend to perch on your shoulder!
Take a 20-minute ride up a bumpy mountain road and you can add a “best-ever” wild bird experience to your stories. Legend says that a woman began feeding birds here in the early 1900s after they followed her home from her walks — which they did for 60 years. Today, a single caretaker at this small cottage property continues her birdfeeding station legacy.
You’ll sit with small bottles of sugar water as hummingbirds flit, hover, and land at your fingertips. Visit this understated and richly authentic destination in the mornings.
Less than a mile from port, you can enjoy the largest greenspace in the city. This 40-acre historic garden dates to the late 19th century.
It was once associated with the internationally renowned Kew Botanical Gardens and was visited (twice) by Queen Elizabeth II. The undulating landscape of ornamental plants has withstood hurricanes (except for one massive baobab tree still lying on a bus) and remains a place of respite for visitors and locals alike, as well as birds from forest thrushes to brown tremblers. Wide open spaces, paths, and benches make this a peaceful birding location.
For an easy hike near the country’s tallest mountain, arrange a ride to Morne Diablotin National Park, named
You’ll sit with small bottles of sugar water as hummingbirds flit, hover, and land at your fingertips.Bonnie Taylor Barrystock.adobe.com Painted buntings (male and female)
after the Dominican creole word for the black-capped petrel. While located several miles from port, the trip here offers opportunities to see the countryside including local coffee, banana, and citrus farms.
(Insider tip: Ask your local driver for a stop to taste the world’s sweetest grapefruits!)
Start your immersive walk through this tropical rain forest at the Visitor Centre.
Scan the dense canopy
overhead and open vegetation near the ground for rare endemic birds, including the imperial parrot and the
jaco red-necked parrot, found nowhere else in the world. The loop trail is just over a mile and offers views from the
rim of the Picard River Gorge.
Book a cruise with an overnight stay in Port of Spain, Trinidad. Why? Scarlet ibises –thousands of them! These 40 square miles of mangrove forests, marshes, mudflats, and lagoons are
declared “wetlands of international importance” and, as such, are a global ecotourism destination. Take a boat tour with a local guide who knows all the best birding spots, including where and when to see scarlet. Each evening, flights of fiery feathers return to roost from their daily commute to Venezuela. Wear some insect repellent (it’s a swamp) and prepare to be amazed.
Scan the dense canopy overhead and open vegetation near the ground for rare endemic birds, including the imperial parrot and the jaco red-necked parrot.White-tailed hummingbird Fork-tailed flycatcher Brown trembler Masked booby
Forest Reserve
Plan a visit to the oldest protected forest in the Western Hemisphere (established in 1776) for a chance to glimpse a large endemic population of birds, from white-necked jacobins to red-billed tropicbirds, and rufous-tailed jacamars to blue-backed manakins. This “backbone” of the island has three types of tropical rain forests yet is only a few miles from Tobago’s Charlotteville port. The most popular access point is Gilpin Trace — a well-marked trail leading into the heart of this ancient wilderness. Explore on your own or hire a guide to learn about the plant and animal beneficiaries of this historic conservation effort.
Sanctuary
Head west for our last stop, Oranjestad. Just a few miles from the port is an expanse of protected wetland marshes and mangroves. This area is a magnet for migrating birds, bringing the number of species visiting and living here to 300 … yet few humans come here. Stroll the water’s edge path to reach a 60-foot wooden observation tower. Bring the binoculars and arrive in early morning or late afternoon for the height of avian activity, spotting whimbrels, masked boobies, green herons, yellow-chinned spinetails, fork-tailed flycatchers, and more..
For more assistance planning your next Caribbean avian adventures, consider meeting a fellow birder in the islands.
BIRDINGPAL.ORG is a respected organization of volunteers sharing the enjoyment of responsible birding around the world. Another great resource if you want to help conserve endangered Caribbean birds is BIRDSCARIBBEAN.ORG
with
Come experience a european river cruise this summer along the Danube. From activites to great cocktails and cusine — it’s all included in your cruise fare!
Eight days, and seven nights of enriching excursions, exclusive experiences, and entertainment. AmaMagna offers guests a comfortable and modern cruise experience with spacious accomodations, an onboard cinema, four restaurants, five bars, a wellness studio, and more!
Bill Panoff, Editor-in-Chief
Cruise and Travel Magazine
Steve Leland travels the world in style. Now, he’s sailing from Europe to America on Viking Neptune.
by Steve Leland
After spending a supercharged summer navigating through ports of the Mediterranean, dissecting Europe on the Danube, and delving into the Arctic wilderness on a fleet of nautical palaces, it was sadly time for us to go home. Cruising from Barcelona to Ft. Lauderdale on the brand new Viking Neptune was the ideal return voyage, offering a fortnight of reflection and relaxation.
Comedian Steven Wright once quipped, “Everywhere is walking distance … if you’ve got the time.” The same could be said about cruising. If time is an issue, 3- or 4-day cruises to the Bahamas are convenient, quick getaways. Sailings to the deeper Caribbean punch the dance card for weeklong holidays. More exotic destinations involve longer flights and, with jet-lag recuperation, require a deeper dip into precious vacation time.
However, if you’re one of the fortunate beings with time to spare, there’s no better value than trans-Atlantic cruising. For less than the cost of business-class air fare, you can soak up 10 to 15 days of luxury on a beautiful cruise ship, as opposed to traveling the same distance in a high-speed flying cylinder.
As a general rule, these repositioning cruises involve multiple days at sea, but therein lies a special appeal. There’s no hurry, no worry, engaging entertainment, indulgent cuisine, and a trip home all bundled in one package. It may be contrary to Viking’s philosophy of cultural immersion in worldwide ports of call, but who would really miss those cathedral visits, coach tours, and historical monuments when you could have the convenient luxury of cruise-ship extravagance every day?
Entering Viking Neptune’s aptly named Living Room gives one an immediate appreciation of the cruise line’s understated class and tasteful Scandinavian design. Exquisite leather furnishings and richly grained wood accoutrements surround the grand stairway that leads downward from a massive video screen (which displays alternating pieces of art), to a Steinway grand piano played by a talented pianist.
Meals aboard this 930-passenger vessel are as varied as those served on ships twice its size. The World Café offers buffet-style dining for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with rotating themed menus and the bounty of the sea presented in a superb raw bar and sushi station with crab legs, shrimp, mussels, scallops, and various ceviches. Complemented by the massive walls of windows in the Explorer’s Lounge, the deli-style venue Mamsen’s serves up Norwegian specialties, waffles, soups, snacks, and desserts. The windows that wrap The Restaurant create a delightful ambience of full-service dining at sea, and
For less than the cost of business-class air fare, you can soak up 10 to 15 days of luxury on a beautiful cruise ship.Living Room Explorer Suite bathroom
the cuisine is inspired. Manfredi’s features Italian fare for foodies, and the Chef’s Table is a multi-course gastronomic extravaganza. In keeping with Viking’s inclusive concept, there’s no supplemental charge for these specialty dining venues and complimentary wine is served at mealtimes.
Celebrating its 25th anniversary in river cruising, 7 years of ocean cruising, and even more recently its entry into expedition cruises, Viking has established a fleet-wide policy of offering complimentary excursions. Prior to departure from Barcelona, guests are treated to a choice of excursions exploring the iconic sights of the city including Gaudi’s famed La Sagrada Familia. Once unmoored from the pier, this elegant floating lady is underway on a 14-day journey across the Atlantic.
Exiting the Mediterranean through the strait of Gibraltar, Viking Neptune enters the Atlantic as Columbus did over 500 years ago, setting a course for Las Palmas in the mountainous Canary Islands. Once there, an afternoon excursion visits the villages of Arucas and Teror, the last land activity before six days crossing the vast expanse of the Atlantic in a style that Chris could only have dreamed of.
The advantage of a 6-hour time difference becomes
evident in early mornings awakening to views of nature’s cinematic sunrise. A brisk morning walk on deck with a spritz of gentle Atlantic sea spray becomes a stimulating ritual and prelude to a hearty breakfast.
Spa. Unlike on most ships, there’s no supplemental fee for enjoying the luxury features of this pleasure emporium. Soak in the bubbling, mineralenriched waters of the heated thermal pool. Detox in the steam room, decompress on heated loungers, or chill out in the snow room. Warm things up with a sauna followed by an invigorating dip in the Nordic ice bath.
Nightly entertainment is a cruise staple and this extended cruise is no different. Classical music performances, stage shows in the Star Theater, and music in the Torshavn Nightclub cap off every day at sea.
After a few days I find myself asking: “What happened to the ill-conceived dread of endless days at sea with nothing to do?” I quickly discover my latent inquisitive nature by attending a dozen fascinating lectures and workshops conducted by celebrated authors, historians, and explorers. I revel in meeting people with a zest for life who shared a love for inspired cruising.
As much as I love children, Viking’s adults-only policy is a welcome change.
The refined cruise style manifests in the daily tea time held in the Wintergarden, enveloped in delicately latticed wood. I’m offered 19 teas from around the world, served in the tradition of yesteryear with freshly baked scones, strawberry jam, and cream in addition to a tray of sweets and finger sandwiches. Time flies when you’re having fun and days pass in a flash. Arrival in the New World on the island of St. Maarten signals a turnaround from life in the slow lane. There’s a new menu of excursions to choose from, with an adrenaline-raising opportunity to sail a regatta race course aboard a sleek, 12-meter yacht. It’s a far cry from the leisurely pace of the past six days.
Located aft, the Aquavit Terrace with its gorgeous infinity pool invites midmorning basks in the sun.
The rest of the day is reserved for engaging activities. There’s nothing that beats an afternoon of personal pampering in the Nordic
Not once am I forced to tolerate boisterous games by the pool or subjected to the annoying cacophony of slot machines in a casino (there isn’t one). I don’t miss the announcements heralding upcoming jackpot bingo games or the gold-by-theinch sale going on right now.
Prior to arrival in Ft. Lauderdale, two final days at sea prompt reflection on the 4,000-mile voyage across the Atlantic. Columbus may have sailed the ocean blue in 1492, but never in the comfort of sailing with a Viking. It’s always more about the journey than the destination but returning home in this manner is rewarding as well. Viking Neptune continues her world cruise through spring, then returns to the North Atlantic for a summer season of Scandinavian cruises before retracing this transAtlantic itinerary toward the end of 2023..
In keeping with Viking’s inclusive concept, there’s no supplemental charge for these specialty dining venues and complimentary wine is served at mealtimes.Viking Cruises Nordic Spa
Ending racial injustice requires all of us to work together and take real action.
What can you do to help?
Educate yourself about the history of American racism, privilege and what it means to be anti-racist. Educate yourself about the history of American racism, privilege and what it means to be anti-racist.
Commit to actions that challenge injustice and make everyone feel like they belong, such as challenging biased or racist language when you hear it.
Vote in national and local elections to ensure your elected officials share your vision of public safety.
Donate to organizations, campaigns and initiatives who are committed to racial justice.
Let’s come together to take action against racism and fight for racial justice for the Black community. Visit lovehasnolabels.com/fightforfreedom
