The Douro & the Med in Stunning Photos
08.2023
Swedish Style scandinavian fashion tips
Bonaire By Land more to do than scuba
Flavor Estates noble houses serve foodie flair
SCORE YOUR CORTEZ Scenic for Luxury? Or UnCruise for Adventure?
0C1 FINAL.indd 1
6/12/23 10:05 AM
D a
MSC_World America_Spread .indd 2
6/12/23 9:54 AM
Discover a New World of Cruising on board MSC World America. A world of sustainable cruising on a ship designed for immersive and unique experiences at sea for guests of all ages and from all around the globe. Embark on a ship that is beautiful both inside and out, powered by cleaner fuel, and full of sophistication. You’ll discover new worlds of cultures, tastes and experiences when MSC World America starts cruising from Miami to the Caribbean in 2025. Be one of the first to experience MSC World America, A New World of Cruising. Now open for booking.
Discover more at msccruises.com
MSC_World America_Spread .indd 1
6/12/23 9:54 AM
DI COL Sprd - PH246.indd 2
6/12/23 9:55 AM
DI COL Sprd - PH246.indd 3
6/12/23 9:55 AM
The inspiration of Alaska - Only on Cunard
PortholeAd-Spread-Jul2023.indd 1 Cunard Line spread - PH246.indd 4
SM
6/12/23 9:56 AM
© 2023 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth and Queen Anne are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.
Contact your Travel Advisor, call (800) 728-6273 or visit Cunard.com/Port
Cunard Line spread - PH246.indd 5
5/22/23 12:20 PM 6/12/23 9:56 AM
Letter from the Publisher
AUGUST 2023
SOPHISTICATED LEISURE Here’s to the high life, wherever it may be found. Good evening! Enjoy the Champagne — it’s a Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs ‘99. The candles are from Maison Trudon. And for our first amusebouche, chef is presenting a chinook salmon carpaccio with coconutinfused roe under a ginger-dill espuma…. This indulgent scene is how I’d like to welcome all of you to this issue of Porthole Cruise and Travel, which I’ve crafted as a sampler platter of the different ways to enjoy luxury around the world. The finest things can be a matter of individual taste, of course. You might enjoy the sumptuous delicacies produced by Europe’s aristocratic estates (on p. 14), or elevate your personal style with the design principles of Swedish luxury fashion (on p. 22) — that’s a guide written by our own digital fashionista Julie Rosner. Your version of the high life might mean enjoying a good book while chatting with the author aboard an ocean liner, as Judi Cuervo does with Ian Rankin on Queen Mary 2’s Literature Festival at Sea (on p. 34), or you might want to bask in the soothing sights of the Mediterranean with legendary photographer Andrew Maclear (on p. 40). Perhaps your idea of luxury involves authentic, enriching experiences delivered quickly and conveniently as offered by Japan’s bullet trains, the shinkansen (on p. 19). Or maybe, what luxury truly means for you is the luxury of choice, whether it’s choosing to explore above-the-water pleasures in a place mostly known as a diver’s paradise (on p. 24) or making a choice between adventure and indulgence aboard not one but two great cruise lines in the Sea of Cortez (on p. 28).
The finest things can be a matter of individual taste, of course.
Whatever your choices are, there’s a place in the world that offers the best of them, and there’s a ship, train, highway, or airplane that can get you there in style. I hope your next trip surpasses all your expectations. For now, the masseuse is getting the mint-infused towels ready, and after that, we’ll share a tray of gold-leaf covered petit-fours. Isn’t this the best? Bon voyage!
Cunard’s Laurent Perrier Champagne Bar
Bill Panoff
Cunard
Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com
6
06 PUB LETTER.indd 6
6/9/23 10:35 AM
Contributors
AUGUST 2023
John Roberts of InTheLoopTravel.com explores destinations around the world in a fun, fit, and adventurous way, writing for publications like AARP The Magazine, Cruise Critic, World of Cruising (U.K.), Travel Pulse, Cruise Passenger (Australia), and TravelAge West .
Steve Leland, a former cruise director, spent the majority of his life in the cruise industry. His insider narratives delve into off-the-grid destinations, focusing on niche cruise itineraries in addition to the mainstream cruise experience. Andrew Maclear started taking pictures in Sixties London, photographing the music and entertainment luminaries of the era. He then made a career in screenwriting but a stills camera has never been far from his hand. Today he uses both digital and analog cameras, including his original 1968 Nikon F.
Judi Cuervo began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications.
Bill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director Grant Balfour Managing Editor Skip Anderson Art Director Sara Linda Proofreader Judi Cuervo, Alex Darlington, Terry Elward, Kirstin Fawcett, Steve Leland, Andrew Maclear, Lola Méndez, John Roberts, Julie Rosner, Richard Varr Contributing Writers Adobe Stock, Alamy Stock Photo, AWL Image, Judi Cuervo, Ingram Image, iStock Photo, Andrew Maclear, Lola Méndez, John Roberts, Richard Varr Contributing Photographers Sales Offices Corporate Headquarters/PPI Group 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA (954) 377-7777 Email: sales@ppigroup.com William P. Jordan III Stephanie Davies
President VP Digital Marketing
Bill Panoff William P. Jordan III Audrey Balbiers-Panoff Piero Vitale Linda Douthat Stephanie Davies Soren Domlesky
AUGUST 2023 ISSUE 246 About the cover: Sea lion sporting in the Sea of Cortez, courtesy of Ingram Image.
Lola Méndez is an UruguayanAmerican who writes about sustainability, travel, lifestyle, wellness, LGBTQ+, and Latinx topics for CNN, USA Today, InStyle, ELLE, Refinery29, and her responsible-travel blog, MissFilatelista.com. You can follow her on social media @LolaAnnaMendez.
CEO/Chairman President Chief Operating Officer Chief Financial Officer SVP, Publishing VP Digital Marketing Director of Technology
Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2023 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 POSTMASTER: Send address changes to P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046. All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or (760) 268-9594 (International) 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Pacific time; email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046-9066, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year subscription (6 digital issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 digital issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax.
For questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com.
7
07 CONTRIBS.indd 7
6/13/23 11:28 AM
08 DI Safi Kilima FP.indd 8
6/12/23 9:57 AM
Features
AUGUST 2023
28
Clockwise: Andrew Maclear; Ingram Image; Ian Georgeson / Alamy Stock Photo
40
34 28
34
40
Day @ Sea
Cunard, Crime, and Letters
The Mediterranean: Water & Light
We cruise the Sea of Cortez two different ways on two different lines: Scenic and UnCruise. Here’s what we learned.
Novelist Ian Rankin discusses writing, cruising, Edinburgh, and the best places to commit murder aboard Queen Mary 2.
A seasoned cruise photographer explores the region by river and by sea.
By John Roberts
By Judi Cuervo
By Andrew Maclear 9
09 TOC-features.indd 9
6/9/23 10:36 AM
What’s Inside
06 Letter from the Publisher 07 Contributors
AUGUST 2023
54
P L A N E T P L AY G R O U N D
14 Wine & Dine
Delicious Castles: Some of Europe’s noble estates have been transformed into purveyors of gourmet treasures. by Kirstin Fawcett
19 Roads & Rails
Japan’s shinkansen bullet trains are super-fast — but provide riders a surprisingly tranquil getaway. by Terry Elward
22 Shop Around Swedish summer fashions by Julie Rosner
Bonaire is a diver’s paradise, but has a lot to do and see above the water. by Richard Varr
BEST LIFE
48 Good Vibes
Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington
BALI
24
Geothermal Iceland by Lola Méndez
54 Leland & Sea
This issue, Steve cruises Borneo and Bali. by Steve Leland
58 Sail Away British Columbia
BONAIRE
Clockwise: Ulaman Eco Retreat; Eric Gevaert - stock.adobe.com; tavoacevedo - stock.adobe.com; Simple Line - stock.adobe.com; John Anderson - stock.adobe.com
24 Shore Leave
10
10 TOC-dept.indd 10
6/9/23 10:37 AM
ST.
C R O I X ST.
J O H N
ST.
T H O M A S
THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS HERE.
Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you could ever ask for.
EXPERIENCE OUR ISLANDS.
visitUSVI.com.
USVI DepartmentTourism - PH246.indd 11
6/12/23 9:58 AM
Planet Playground
AUGUST 2023
14 Wine & Dine EUROPE
19
24 Shore Leave BONAIRE
22
Clockwise: Castillo de Canena; Arket; b.neeser - stock.adobe.com; DW - stock.adobe.com
Roads & Rails JAPAN
Shop Around SWEDEN
12
12 PLANET PLAY.indd 12
6/9/23 10:38 AM
AOV Atlas FP - PH246.indd 13
6/12/23 9:58 AM
Wine & Dine
Delicious Castles Some of Europe’s noble estates have been transformed into purveyors of gourmet treasures. by Kirstin Fawcett
CRAVING A DESTINATION WITH OLD-WORLD FLAVOR?
Once the strongholds of European nobles, these castles today cater to globe-hopping gourmands, serving up local cheeses, organic chocolates, wine and beer, and more, along with a hefty dose of history.
SPAIN
“Liquid gold” — olive oil — is the culinary star of dishes like fresh cod salad with orange, made with the Castillo de Canena arbequina family reserve, or, above, Fijian lovo kokoda and vegetables made with the castle’s biodynamic picual EVOO.
Andalusia is named after — and headquartered in — a Spanish Renaissance castle formerly owned by Francisco de los Cobos, the private secretary of Charles I. The family-run oliveoil producer in Jaén welcomes visitors on Monday afternoons and by appointment; between sampling varieties of southern Spain’s so-called oro líquido (liquid gold) and admiring the castle’s Moorish-influenced architecture (the work of noted 16th-century architect Andrés de Vandelvira), tourists can learn how Castillo de Canena’s oil is produced and buy their own bottles.
Opposite clockwise from left: Castillo de Canena (x2); New Africa - stock.adobe.com; Castillo de Canena
Y Castillo de Canena in
castillodecanena.com 14
14-16 WINE&DINE - castles.indd 14
6/9/23 10:46 AM
P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D
ITALY Y Italy’s Chianti Classico wine was
Clockwise from top: Abbaye Bonneval ; Michele Zaimbri - stock.adobe.com; Ricasoli;Dave Spellman / CC 2.0; Abbaye Bonneval
invented in 1872 by Baron Bettino Ricasoli — a two-time Italian prime minister — on the grounds of his family’s ancestral Tuscan castle. Not only did Ricasoli’s signature
FRANCE Y Notre-Dame de Bonneval, an ancient, fortified Cistercian abbey, has operated its own chocolate factory since 1878. It’s not open for tours, but guests can explore the majestic ramparts and pavilions, admire the abbey church, view a short educational film on the site’s history, and purchase 13 varieties of the nuns’ so-called “Bonneval chocolates” — proudly made using traditional organic ingredients — from the gift shop.
abbaye-bonneval.com
blend go down in history (at least 80 percent sangiovese, blended with other grapes like canaiolo and colorino), but today Barone Ricasoli is considered to be one of Italy’s oldest wineries, its grounds having landed in the Ricasoli family’s possession as early as 1141. In addition to wine tastings, visitors can opt to tour Castello di Brolio’s grounds and peek inside its family chapel, the original wine cellars, and the label’s state-of-the-art modern winemaking facilities among other areas.
ricasoli.com
ENGLAND Y
Candy castles do exist outside of board games — or at least they did in 18th-century England. Back then, licorice was considered an important medicinal plant, with demand so great that Pontefract Castle in West Yorkshire used its dungeons to store licorice roots. The plant also grew rampant on its grounds, as it thrived in the local climate. By the 1920s, licorice cure-alls had morphed from treatment to treat, and local factories produced “Pomfret,” or Pontefract cakes — tiny lozenges made from cooked licorice sap. An annual summer festival celebrates this legacy with licorice-themed costumes, crafts, foods, and a “Liquorice Land Train” that transports revelers to Pontefract Castle. There, they can tour the 11th-century stronghold once memorably described in Shakespeare’s Richard III as a “bloody prison,” watch candy-themed movies like Charlie & the Chocolate Factory, and learn how licorice became a cornerstone of the local economy.
yorkshire.com/events/pontefract-liquorice-festival-2023 15
14-16 WINE&DINE - castles.indd 15
6/9/23 10:46 AM
Wine & Dine
P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D
AUSTRIA Y Prior to COVID-19, beer lovers
SWITZERLAND Y Cheese worshippers, rejoice: Château de Villa in Sierre, Switzerland, refers to itself on its website as a “true temple of raclette.” Owned for centuries by local aristocrats, the alpine castle — constructed between the 16th and 17th centuries — is now home to a restaurant, food store, and wine shop, all dedicated to promoting Valais cuisine and drink. Patrons can purchase fine foods to go or sit down and stay for Château de Villa’s signature meal: raclette made from not one but five different regional cheeses. (For the uninitiated, raclette is a traditional Swiss dish of melted cheese scraped straight from the wheel; it’s typically paired with bread, pickled veggies, cured meat, and potatoes.)
chateaudevilla.ch
were encouraged to pack their swimsuits before visiting Austria’s Starkenberg Castle. Its cellars contained literal beerbathing pools, providing zythophiles with a once-in-a-lifetime chance to become truly one with their favorite beverage. (Bathers could even sip poolside pints mid-soak.) It’s unclear whether the Starkenberg beer pools have reopened, but visitors can still tour the 700-yearold castle’s historic brewery, play beerthemed trivia, and sample traditional Tyrolean foods at Starkenberg Castle’s in-house restaurant.
starkenberger.at
GERMANY
without sipping Scotch whisky in front of a roaring fire. Dornoch Castle passed through the hands of various bishops and earls and served as a courthouse, jail, schoolhouse, hunting club, and private residence before being transformed postwar into a grand hotel. Newly rechristened as the Dornoch Station Hotel, the palatial lodging boasts new upgrades to its rooms and grounds, an award-winning in-house whisky bar, and its very own microdistillery. Called Thompson Bros Distillers, it’s located inside an old fire station on the castle grounds.
contains fruit trees instead of water. The 12th-century castle in Germany’s Rhine River Valley was erected by the Archbishop of Cologne and was ravaged centuries later by French troops during the Nine Years’ War. Today, the surrounding municipality of Andernach is a self-proclaimed “edible city,” and pedestrians are encouraged to pick and eat their fill from public gardens and orchards. These include Stadtburg Andernach’s grounds, where vegetables, fruits, herbs, and edible flowers have reclaimed the fortification’s crumbling defenses.
thompsonbrosdistillers.com
andernach-tourismus.de
SCOTLAND Y A trip to the Scottish Highlands wouldn’t be complete
.
Clockwise from top left: Château de Villa; Starkenberg; JEFs-FotoGalerie - stock.adobe.com; Dornoch Distillery
Y Stadtburg Andernach’s moat
16
14-16 WINE&DINE - castles.indd 16
6/9/23 10:46 AM
SUMMER OF FUN Where summer’s warmth shines brighter, burns bolder—new and exciting opportunities for adventure promise to stir the soul. St. Kitts’ lineup of summer events offer the chance to explore and excite, from savoring the region’s cuisine to swaying to live soca and reggae under the moonlight. Indulge your curiosity this summer as you discover the unexpected wonders that St. Kitts has to offer.
VISITSTKITTS.COM
St Kitts Tourism Authority - PH245.indd 17
6/12/23 9:59 AM
Cast your vote in the 2023 Porthole Cruise and Travel Readers’ Choice Awards at porthole.com, and be automatically entered to win a $2,500 shopping spree at
The winner will enjoy an exclusive experience of shopping at home by video, hosted by a personal shopper at one of the Infinity Jewelry locations.
To vote, head over to porthole.com or click here. Get an extra chance to win the shopping spree by filling out our reader survey here. Void where prohibited. See more details, and the rules and regulations for the sweepstakes, at porthole.com.
Porthole RCA23 - PH246_Final2.indd 18
Vote Now 6/12/23 10:01 AM
Roads & Rails
P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D
With a Bullet Japan’s shinkansen bullet trains are super-fast — but provide riders a surprisingly tranquil getaway.
Top to bottom: eyetronic - stock.adobe.com; Hisagi / CC BY-SA 4.0; Nattasid - stock.adobe.com
by Terry Elward
N
ot only are they clean, efficient, and famously on-time but Japanese trains are also comfortable and travel over a thorough, nationwide network across the country’s many islands. For any train lover, Japan is paradise. While all of Japan’s trains are reliable and safe, the best and the fastest are the shinkansen, or bullet trains. These are the fastest and most luxurious way of traveling throughout Japan. Starting in Tokyo Station, one can travel via shinkansen from the capital city to the balmy beaches
of Kagoshima towards the tropics (an approximately 6 ½-hour journey) or to the frosty north of Hokkaido, a region close to Russia and famous for some of Japan’s best shellfish, its ski resorts in winter, and beautiful green hills and lakes during summer. (This is one of the longer trips, taking 8 or 9 hours.) Although a high-speed train, the ride is smooth and doesn’t feel as though it’s racing across the country. The only time you’ll notice is when you pull out your camera for a shot of the beautiful scenery out the window— be ready to act fast! 19
18-21 ROADS&RAILS - shinkansen.indd 19
6/9/23 10:47 AM
A Golden Line Kanazawa is an excellent day trip from Tokyo. Only 2 ½ hours away sits this beautiful town, relatively untouched by time and famous for its pottery and its gold — the name Kanazawa means “gold marsh,” and the city produces almost all of
extravagant souvenirs in Kanazawa. Surprisingly, you can get items such as lip balm, key rings, and sauce dishes made with 24 karat gold for as little as $10. As with most cities in Japan, Kanazawa has a thriving local food scene. The restaurants above the station offer an excellent selection of Japanese food, from sushi to yakitori and Japanese-style salads. The jewel in Kanazawa’s golden crown is the stunning Kenrokuen Garden. Considered one of Japan’s finest, the garden was established in the 1600s as part of the Kanazawa Castle grounds. In the 1870s, this famous Japanese natural treasure was opened to the public. Kenrokuen is a 20-minute bus ride from
The jewel in Kanazawa’s golden crown is the stunning Kenrokuen Garden.
the station or a 27-minute stroll. The garden’s cherry blossoms, ancient stone lanterns, ponds, and teahouses are picturesque in every season. A hub for high-quality Japanese pottery, you’ll find several galleries, museums, and shops around the Kenrokuen gardens selling pottery (many items made with gold) and other beautiful boutiques selling high-end clothing, silk products, cutlery, and homewares. If you’re artistically inclined, you may wish to try to make some Kanagawa-style pottery yourself at Studio Hokutoh. Here, you can learn from local pottery masters located in the beautiful gardens of what was once a samurai’s opulent residence.
Clockwise: sakuron - stock.adobe.com; Nattasid - stock.adobe.com (x2); leeyiutung - stock.adobe.com; Jef Wodniack / iStock Photo
Roads & Rails
Kenrokuen Garden
Japan’s gold leaf. Gold leaf is highly prized in Japan and is used for decorating temples, in ceramics, for cosmetic use, and even on food. The finest Japanese restaurants serve gold leaf on their beef and desserts. Gold is safe to consume and was traditionally believed to have health benefits such as improving circulation — and, most importantly, bringing wealth. If you are partial to the yellow metal, be sure to pick up some
20
Pottery masters make porcelain art
18-21 ROADS&RAILS - shinkansen.indd 20
6/9/23 10:47 AM
P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D
Clockwise: Ingram Image; Kapi - stock.adobe.com; VTT Studio - stock.adobe.com; PixHound - stock.adobe.com
Getting Aboard For the traveler, the Japan Rail Pass is available online. A huge price increase has just been announced for October 2023, but until then, the passes are around $237 for a 7-day pass. This makes them an excellent value, as a round-trip ticket from Tokyo to Kyoto comes in at about the same price and there are plenty of places to see in Japan that can be done within seven days. If you have more time, 7- and 21-day passes are also available. Local trains are also available for much less, but they can take up to 20 hours to cross in what a bullet train can cover in 6. Kanazawa is on one of the newer lines out of Tokyo on the shinkansen since the Hokuriku line opened in 2015. This route is covered by the Japan Rail Pass, or it costs around $130-140 on the shinkansen from Tokyo station.
Kenrokuen Garden
Hot Springs State Park
Japanese shinkansen have a dedicated luggage area, hooks for jackets, power outlets, and reclining seats. The timetables and signs are in both English and Japanese and are very userfriendly. I’ve never seen a Japanese train that isn’t spick-andspan with gleaming restrooms. The best thing about the longdistance trains is the drink-and-snack cart offering meals, snacks, green tea, ice cream, and local beer for very reasonable prices. The trains alone (and the scenes of Japan outside the windows) make for a pleasant journey even if you never get out of the train carriage.
.
Bullet-train bento
21
18-21 ROADS&RAILS - shinkansen.indd 21
6/9/23 10:47 AM
Shop Around
SUMMERTIME CALLS for Swedish Luxury Fashion by Julie Rosner
SIMPLE SUMMERTIME OUTFITS CONSIST OF: • something black to set the foundation • lightweight layers, such as Merino wool (highly recommended due to less frequent washing) • comfortable closed-toed shoes that complement the simplicity of the wardrobe. Besides wool, some designers use silk, cashmere, and leather to create durable pieces that will build a timeless wardrobe for anyone. Many Swedish designers focus on creating eco-friendly pieces with materials such as organic cotton or recycled fibers. Seeing how thoughtful fashion designers can provide aesthetic and comfort for the everyday shopper is truly remarkable.
The
season
in Sweden calls for pleasantly warm temperatures and the urge to peel off layers of clothing depending on the UV Index. Even though the heat can verge on the unbearable during the summer (it is the Land of the Midnight Sun, after all), residents and visitors alike love this time of year to deck out in Swedish luxury fashion staples. With minimalistic, timeless designs, the latest Swedish fashion trends are simple to follow. Seek out clothing inspired by well-known designers such as Filippa K, J. Lindeberg, Acne Studios, and ARKET. High-quality pieces with sustainable materials have a universal appeal. While outfitting for a summer in Sweden, many favor neutral color palettes such as beige, black, white, and gray. These colors complement Sweden’s understated elegance and can be used year-round thanks to the country’s versatile and timeless designs. Swedish designers often modernize their fashion choices by incorporating bold colors and prints into their collections. Whether you are a fan of neutrals or want to be daring with color, there is something for everyone to try.
22
22-23 SHOP AROUND - sweden.indd 22
6/9/23 10:48 AM
P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D
DRESSING FOR THE WEATHER
in Sweden means preparing for the unpredictable. Consider bringing an umbrella and a day pack to ensure you are ready to enjoy your summer days in Sweden, whether rain or shine. Sweden has so much natural beauty, from the landscapes to the local people who have been inspired by such an elegant environment. The country’s luxury fashion features
simple Left: Amanda Westerbom/imagebank.sweden.se Right clockwise: Anton Olin/imagebank.sweden.se; Tina Stafrén/imagebank.sweden.se; FilippaK/imagebank.sweden.se; Amanda Westerbom/imagebank.sweden.se; FilippaK/imagebank.sweden.se
and fun patterns such as stripes, checks, and polka dots. Swedish designers sometimes incorporate more intricate patterns into their collections, such as floral prints or abstract designs, depending on the season or collection. The assortment of prints and neutrals reflect the country’s cultural values of simplicity, sustainability, and elegance — principles that can make any outfit a great choice for summer in Sweden.
THERE IS A DIFFERENCE between “fashionable” and “faddish” here. Many Swedish people value quality over quantity and prefer investing in timeless pieces you can re-wear for years. If you are looking to create a more sustainable and environmentally friendly wardrobe with high-quality materials and understated
elegance,
it may be time for you to explore the hype of Swedish luxury fashion. If you are unsure where to begin, don’t be afraid to do some research. Scout around Pinterest or Amazon to discover new styles and create vision boards to save for future outfit ideas. Pinterest allows users to find images and ideas based on keywords or themes. Searching “Swedish Fashion” or “Sweden Neutrals” can give you many examples to help make the perfect outfit. With the click of a button, you can create your summer look and stay up-to-date with the latest trends. With these tools and guidelines for Swedish luxury fashion, it’s time to take your knowledge and get shopping!
.
23
22-23 SHOP AROUND - sweden.indd 23
6/9/23 10:48 AM
Shore Leave
P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D
Not a Diver? No Problem Bonaire is a diver’s paradise, but has a lot to do and see above the water. by Richard Varr
MY SAIL CAUGHT THE WIND AS I PICKED UP SPEED.
“Pull harder on the rope,” commanded my instructor. I did so to further harness the constant and powerful trade winds and started to feel every bump in the road. That’s right; I wasn’t in a sailboat riding the waves, but instead in a three-wheeled “blokart” gaining speed on a racetrack in Bonaire’s panoramic inland desert. “It’s such an easy activity to learn,” says Donna Hudgeon with Bonaire Landsailing Adventures, one of only two such operators in the Caribbean. “After the first couple of laps, you’re a rock star!” Land sailing is just one exciting activity I found on the divers’ paradise of Bonaire. I’m a fair snorkeler at best, and thus came to explore the “B” of the ABC Islands by foot, car, and by boat. And I wasn’t disappointed.
Land-sailing “blokarts”
With not one traffic light, Bonaire has evaded widespread commercialization and maintains a laid-back lifestyle. And no trip to this semi-arid, boomerang-shaped island would be complete without seeing flamingos, whose numbers sometimes match the roughly 23,000 human population. Getting up close and personal with the stick-legged birds, however … well, that’s another story.
b.neeser - stock.adobe.com; Richard Varr
Watersports abound, especially at the Atlantis Beach kitesurfing camp and at the windsurfing hotspot Jibe City along shallow Lac Bay. Waterside restaurants serve the fresh catch of the day, with some tables on piers emphasizing breezy alfresco dining at its best.
24
24-26 SHORE LEAVE- bonaire.indd 24
6/9/23 10:49 AM
Blue Gallery - PH246.indd 25
6/12/23 10:01 AM
Shore Leave
Watching Flamingos and More Subtle Birds
From the southern coastal road, I could only see a pink-orange blur of flocks in the Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary — as close as we could get to one of the world’s best-known flamingo breeding grounds. At Gotomeer Lake in the north, we stepped on shore for close-up views — but not too close, as the shy creatures scatter when they feel threatened. Bird watching also took us to Lac Bay, where, within three hours, our guide pointed out 23 of the island’s 247 known species. Sightings included a crested caracara, an impressive bird of prey, atop a mangrove tree and a tri-colored blue-gray heron lurking on mangrove roots — spotted only by our guide. “Many birds are so well camouflaged that your eye just passes over them,” says Susan Davis of Bonaire Bird Photography Tours.
Crested caracara
Salt heaps
Pyramid-like salt heaps scintillate under the Caribbean sun, part of Bonaire’s still vital salt industry. “The salt shines like diamonds,” notes Tourism Bonaire’s information officer, Rolando Marin, explaining how the crystals come from ponds of evaporating seawater. “We’re lucky we have a lot of land for the seawater. Wind and sun, which we have every day, do the work for us.” Nearby clusters of well-preserved white-and-ochre slave huts reveal the history of enslaved salt workers who used the tiny dwellings for shelter. Docile donkeys, once used as work animals, now roam freely. The drive-through Donkey Sanctuary is home to many; they crowd our cars and smudge the windows looking for a handout. And from a secluded beach marked by a giant boulder hails the legend of Mamparia Cutu of the Black Rock. Legend says she was a mermaid with golden hair who would lure captains to sail their vessels closer to shore, only to be plundered when shipwrecked.
From top: Danita Delimont - stock.adobe.com; garytog - stock.adobe.com
Salty History in the South
26
24-26 SHORE LEAVE- bonaire.indd 26
6/9/23 10:49 AM
P L A N E T P L AYG R O U N D
NOT JUST SCUBA!
Protected as part of the Bonaire National Marine Park, the coral reefs encircling the island can be reached from almost any beachfront. At Donkey Beach, I followed puckering trunkfish and sleek blue angelfish, while also getting nicked by pesky, territorial damselfish. Negligible currents and abundant marine life make the reefs such an important natural wonder, explains Ricardo Aguilar, Dive Operations Manager at the Divi Flamingo Beach Resort and Casino. “We don’t protect it just because of the rules,” he insists. “We need to protect this for our children and our grandchildren.”
1,000 Steps Beach
Richard Varr (x3)
Cactus Tastings in the Hilly North Limestone bluffs pockmarked by wind and sun dominate Bonaire’s northern topography, where gangly cactus stalks shoot out over mesquite trees. What locals call the “tourist road” parallels the western coastline and leads to the 1,000 Steps Beach, where there are spectacular ocean views from a stone stairwell that descends to the water’s edge — an easy trek, actually, since there are only 67 steps. The hilly terrain, in fact, shielded Rincon from the eyes of marauding pirates. Founded in 1527, it’s the Dutch Caribbean’s oldest town.
“Rincon was a like a hidden gem between the mountains,” explains Izaïn Mercera, experience coordinator with Mangazina di Rei, a museum housed in the 1824 King’s Storehouse building. Exhibits reveal glimpses of island history, highlighting, for example, how salt workers walked for seven hours to Rincon to spend weekends with their families. At the Cadushy Distillery, I sampled the island’s unique cactus liqueur — sweet tasting, with sort of a “vegetable juice” flavor. It’s made from the dried inner peel of the plentiful kadushi cactus and mixed with alcohol fermented from locally grown sorghum.
Fort Oranje
KRALENDIJK – CAPITAL OF PARADISE
Fort Oranje’s dulled yellow walls radiate a soft glow reflected from the fiery Caribbean sunset. Shoppers stomp along Kaya Grandi’s sidewalks lined with pastel-hued storefronts. Kiosks fill central Wilhelmina Plaza where vendors hawk homemade jewelry, handbags, and paintings. From Karel’s Beach Bar atop a central pier, I stepped aboard the hourly water taxi to Klein Bonaire, the undeveloped flat islet with its pristine white sand beach, one of Bonaire’s best.
.
Cadushy Distillery 27
24-26 SHORE LEAVE- bonaire.indd 27
6/9/23 10:49 AM
OR PAMPERED PUSHING IT? We cruise the Sea of Cortez two different ways on two different lines: Scenic and UnCruise. Here’s what we learned. by John Roberts
28
28-33 FEATURE- Sea of Cortez.indd 28
6/9/23 10:51 AM
Scenic Eclipse Safari Voyager
D
ay breaks over the Sea of Cortez with the honey-colored glow of a stunning sunrise. Witnessing this from a cruise ship fills your spirit with an energy that affirms your choice to explore this stunning region on an expedition sailing. Several cruise lines visit the Sea of Cortez from Baja California, so which ship should you choose?
I took two small-ship adventures on this precious waterway — also called the Gulf of California — which separates mainland Mexico to the east from the Baja California peninsula to the west. It’s rich with history, culture, and wildlife.
Left to right: Christian Heeb / AWL Images; John Roberts; UnCruise/Ellen Barone
I sailed on UnCruise Adventures’ 66-passenger Safari Voyager and Scenic Cruises’ Scenic Eclipse, which carries up to 228 people. Now, these two ships are completely different from each other — in both design and purpose.
28-33 FEATURE- Sea of Cortez.indd 29
Each voyage was special, but the ship you'll choose depends on the type of cruiser you are and the overall experience you seek.
One morning, I joined four fellow cruisers and piled into a helicopter aboard Scenic Eclipse. We lifted off for a flight along the coastline — where the Sonoran Desert meets the sea — to get a bird’s-eye view over the barren landscape, surveying the jagged mountains, colorful salt flats, and a pod of three dozen dolphins frolicking just offshore. 29
6/9/23 10:51 AM
With UnCruise, we jumped in to snorkel with playful California sea lions at Isla Los Islotes. This was just one of the thrills during our week in the “Aquarium of the World.” Each voyage was special, but the ship you'll choose depends on the type of cruiser you are and the overall experience you seek. Are you in the mood for hard-charging exploration? Or do you want a “light expedition” voyage that offers the cozy embrace of luxury amenities? Let’s look at what to expect when sailing on UnCruise vs. Scenic in the Sea of Cortez. California sea lions at Isla Los Islotes
UnCruise’s Deep History Here The company has been cruising in the Sea of Cortez for two decades, and each season it spends more than three months (January to April) with Safari Voyager taking active travelers on flexible itineraries that change daily based on weather conditions and animal sightings. UnCruise captains and expedition guides know the area better than anyone, and the program features a broad array of immersive activities. Many of my fellow passengers were sailing with UnCruise for a second, third, even fourth time. More than cruisers, these are active travelers who embrace daily activities like challenging hiking, kayaking, and snorkeling.
30
Safari Voyager
28-33 FEATURE- Sea of Cortez.indd 30
6/9/23 10:51 AM
Clockwise: Danita Delimont - stock.adobe.com; UnCruise (x3)
Hiking on Isla San Francisco
Guides led excursions during the day and offered talks about the animals, culture, and history in the lounge after dinner.
Guides led excursions during the day and offered talks about the animals, culture, and history in the lounge after dinner. They were always present and willing to chat about any topic, whether about their life and hobbies away from the ship or to further discuss the acrobatic mobula rays or soaring hawks that we would spot each day. For example, guide Gabe, who has done extensive research in the region, gave an in-depth talk about the Pericu people who lived in the southernmost area of Baja California Sur and how their influence still exists despite being essentially culturally and linguistically extinct.
Scenic: Premium Dining, Luxe Amenities Scenic Eclipse is a “discovery yacht” designed for expeditions in the polar regions. It features spacious suites with butler service, a spa, and 10 dining experiences. Scenic sails itineraries in the Sea of Cortez in April. These voyages are part of the ship’s repositioning after the end of its season in Antarctica. From here, it continues north to Alaska, the Arctic, and Japan.
I cruised in mid-April with many veteran cruisers who typically prefer luxury travel. The ship has all kinds of goodies to tempt travelers looking for an ultra-luxury vacation. All suites feature balconies, adjustable beds, butlers, 24-hour room service, walk-in showers, and extras like a mini-fridge and pillow menu. You can take in the scenery from outdoor spaces like the top deck with its two hot tubs, cabanas, and Panorama Bar. There is an Observation Lounge that leads out to a large bow with teak decking and tons of space to watch the whales, dolphins, and birds that we spotted continuously. The ship also features the French restaurant Lumiere that serves decadent eight-course wine-pairing meals, an 11-course Chef’s Table dining journey offered by invitation only to 10 guests, and Koko’s Asian-fusion restaurant that has specialty dining experiences at its sushi bar and an eight-diner-per seating Night Market teppanyaki-style meal. Plus, there are three more restaurants and the Whisky Bar (serving more than 110 varieties). 31
28-33 FEATURE- Sea of Cortez.indd 31
6/9/23 10:51 AM
Scenic Eclipse carries two helicopters and a submarine and, for an added fee, offers excursions in these.
Indulgence vs. Adventure You won’t find such extravagances on UnCruise’s Safari Voyager, which has rustic accommodations. Cabins are for sleeping and storing clothes. Passengers gather in the lively lounge to rehash the day’s activities, and they constantly wander the outer decks and the bow area to spot animals. Guides give talks with wonderful insight into the region. Dining is at one restaurant, and the menus feature a delicious variety, with most ingredients grown on a farm near the town of La Paz that UnCruise contracts to provide its meat and produce for each season. The cuisine on both trips — international menus on Scenic Eclipse and regional delights aboard Safari Voyager — are highlights.
Adventures in Baja California Sur The 800-mile-long Baja Peninsula and Sea of Cortez provide a natural wonderland for active travelers. A cruise ship is the best way to explore.
Both ships visited the charming coastal town of Loreto, one of the oldest settlements in Mexico, filled with Spanish colonial buildings. Mostly, we were at remote islands, such as Isla Partida, Isla Danzante, and Isla San Marcos, visiting beaches and bays, and going on Zodiac tours. UnCruise guides lead kayaking and hiking tours, and we did plenty of snorkeling in addition to the excursion to swim among California sea lion pups at Los Islotes. The hikes are challenging, stretching up to 8 miles and reaching scenic points high in the hills, scaling massive boulders in the arroyos, or dry riverbeds. Scenic Eclipse carries two helicopters and a submarine and, for an added fee, offers excursions in these. The daily program, overall, is much less intense, with cruisers dropped off at the beach for self-guided snorkeling, paddleboarding, and kayaking. We also had one gentle desert walk at Isla San Esteban to see the stunning landscape, which included large, spiny-tailed iguanas lazily perched atop the region’s giant cardon cactuses. Scenic Eclipse explores the region while passing through, and the ship is cherished as a destination unto itself by luxury-leaning cruisers. Safari Voyager, on the other hand, serves as a great basecamp for your adventures in the Sea of Cortez.
.
Scenic Cruises (x7)
A theater hosts enrichment talks and movies. Passengers gather in the large lounge for entertainment like live music and trivia. A spa offers massages and other treatments. Eclipse also has a sauna, steam room, cold-plunge pool, infrared sauna, and well-equipped fitness center and yoga room.
32
28-33 FEATURE- Sea of Cortez.indd 32
6/9/23 10:51 AM
The cuisine on both trips — international menus on Scenic Eclipse and regional delights aboard Safari Voyager — are highlights.
The Owner's Penthouse Suite aboard Scenic Eclipse
33
28-33 FEATURE- Sea of Cortez.indd 33
6/9/23 10:51 AM
34-49 FEATURE- QM2 Literature.indd 34
Left: Home Bird / Alamy Stock Photo; Right: Hamish Brown
34
6/9/23 10:52 AM
Cunard, Crime, and Letters Novelist Ian Rankin discusses writing, cruising, Edinburgh, and the best places to commit murder aboard Queen Mary 2. by Judy Cuer vo
Ian Rankin
35
34-49 FEATURE- QM2 Literature.indd 35
6/9/23 10:52 AM
Alan Johnson
Alan Titchmarsh
Anna Murphy
Antony Beevor
Artemis Cooper
Clare Mackintosh
Daniel Finkelstein
Kate Mosse
Luigi Bonomi
Lynda La Plante
Queen Mary 2’s Literature Festival at Sea was a blockbuster for book lovers! The cruise included best-selling authors Ian Rankin, Charles Cumming, Mark Billingham, Alexander McCall Smith, Prue Leith (from The Great British Bake Off), JoJo Moyes, Mick Herron, Pamela Paul, Simon Armitage, and more in a sea-going celebration of the written word in all its varieties. This flawlessly organized program of conversations, debates, current events analyses, book signings, and intimate master classes is the ideal transAtlantic crossing for voracious readers, budding novelists, and anyone fascinated by the writing process and thrilled by spirited discussion! Queen Mary 2 will host the 2023 Literature Festival at Sea with a 7-day crossing from Southampton to New York, November 19 to 26. Confirmed speakers include Lynda La Plante, Antony Beevor, Artemis Cooper, Literary Agent Luigi Bonomi, former Home Secretary and author Alan Johnson, Yvonne Battle-Felton, Alan Titchmarsh, Daniel Finkelstein, Clare Mackintosh, Val McDermid, Kate Mosse, Richard Osman, Anna Murphy, Jamie Susskind, and Hashi Mohamed. Additional speakers will be announced.
That was the plan at least … until I discovered that the Literature Festival at Sea wasn’t Rankin’s first trip up the gangway. Far from it. “I’ve done quite a few cruises, Queen Victoria most often,” he says. “I love Cunard. My wife started taking her mother on cruises and she persuaded me that it would be good for the whole family. We’ve an extended family with some mobility issues: My wife’s mother is in her 90s and the younger of our two sons is permanently in a wheelchair. Sometimes, there are issues with a wheelchair, particularly in tender ports but, mostly, we can take him straight off on the dock and walk into the center of town and just have a really nice time.” Edinburgh-based Rankin, for decades a speaker at the land-based Cheltenham Literary Festival, is delighted to be a part of its oceangoing counterpart. “It was lovely to fly out and spend a few days in New York before we picked up the ship. A while back, we sailed up the eastern seaboard of the States on this very ship, but my wife always wanted to cross the Atlantic because she loves sea days, so this is magical.”
CRUISE AND CRIME WRITING
L-R: Cunard; Nell Dunn; Mark Harrison; Times Newspapers Ltd; Cunard (x2); Charlotte Graham; Heledd Roberts; Pohle; Ruth Crafer; Cunard; Gemma Day; Ian Robinson
CONFIRMED SPEAKERS FOR 2023
Right clockwise from top left: Still Moving Media LLP; Judi Cuervo (x2)
“WE WERE ON A CRUISE
that stopped in Lisbon and this chap left the ship to run a marathon there,” says the youthful, shaggy-haired 62-year-old in his charming Scottish burr. “But after the marathon, he couldn’t get a cab so we sailed without him and there he was in Lisbon having to find his way to the next port without his passport, wearing nothing but shorts, training shoes and a singlet!” Sometimes it felt as though I was simply chatting with a shipmate, sharing some of the quirky things we had experienced during our respective sailings. And then it would hit me: This is Ian Rankin, Sir Ian Rankin to be precise, best-selling crime fiction novelist and the creator Val of Inspector John Rebus, my favorite McDermid literary character of the past 30 years. I caught up with Rankin somewhere mid-ocean aboard Queen Mary 2’s Literature Festival at Sea, a celebration of literature, history, film, and current events organized by The Times and The Sunday Times Cheltenham Literature Festival in partnership with Cunard. Rankin was just one of the worldYvonne renowned authors, journalists, and Battle-Felton classicists featured in the discussions, panels, conversations, master classes and book signings that filled the festival’s program during this 6-day Atlantic crossing. I figured he and I would discuss his latest book, A Heart Full of Headstones and its shocking conclusion, the Rebus television series that debuts in 2024, and maybe even Lawrence King’s The World of Ian Rankin, a 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle that leads us through the dark heart of Edinburgh, with key scenes and characters from every one of the Rebus novels.
36
34-49 FEATURE- QM2 Literature.indd 36
6/9/23 10:52 AM
World-renowned authors, journalists, and scholars present to enthusiastic audiences of book lovers.
All aboard for a book signing 37
34-49 FEATURE- QM2 Literature.indd 37
6/9/23 10:52 AM
Rankin finds the festival, itself, pretty magical as well. “I think I speak for each of the festival’s authors when I say it’s so much fun to see the festival sessions so well attended. Sometimes during a tour, an author will do a signing and only 10 people will turn up at the bookstore — with their knitting — just because they want a free glass of wine. But not here. I’m blown away by the full audiences — enthusiastic audiences — even at 9:00 a.m. sessions. And it’s a pleasure to meet these people — so often they’ll stop and say lovely things, like how much they’ve enjoyed your talk or your latest book.” If, like me, you harbor dreams of an upcoming Ian Rankin novel that finds Inspector John Rebus aboard an ocean liner, using his wit and often-questionable tactics to solve a crime on board, you’ll be disappointed. “Rebus doesn’t even have a passport, though I suppose he could sail around the U.K. and Ireland and find a murder aboard the ship. But, no, that won’t happen,” Rankin insists. Aboard Queen Mary 2, however, Rankin still finds plenty of potential locations for murderous mayhem. “The posh dining room, perhaps,” he speculates. “Or somebody’s been poisoned, maybe in the gym, and it’s made to look like a heart attack but they’ve actually been syringed with something. Somebody goes overboard — that’s an obvious one — but were they pushed and, if so, by whom? And then there’s that secret walkway, The Burma Road, the crewonly walkway that runs the length of the ship. That could play a role in an onboard murder.” With hopes of a seafaring Rebus dashed, Rankin fans might wish to immerse themselves in Edinburgh, the city that forms the atmospheric backdrop in all 29 of Rankin’s Rebus novels and is a popular cruise port via nearby Leith.
A P E R F E CT S C E N E
Even casual readers of the Rebus novels are familiar with The Oxford Bar, an unassuming watering hole located on a nondescript street just two blocks away from the city’s high-end shopping district. “The Oxford Bar is very anonymous,” explains Rankin. “I just thought that’s what a detective would want: something local and anonymous but also central.” And Rankin’s researched the establishment extensively — not only does Inspector Rebus drink at The Oxford Bar in every novel, but it’s where Rankin himself heads for a pint. “If you walk the streets of Edinburgh, you’re going to see Rebus’ Edinburgh,” Rankin assures us, before sharing some tips for our next visit to his beautiful city. “Walk up Carlton Hill, which is an extinct volcano at the eastern end of Princes Street, the main shopping street. You can walk up in five minutes, but you get a 360-degree view of Edinburgh and it’s much easier and quicker than
T H E I N S P E CTO R ’S E D I N B U R G H
Clockwise from top left: Cunard; Judi Cuervo (x2); Cunard
“I think I speak for each of the festival’s authors when I say it’s so much fun to see the festival sessions so well attended.”
The Library on board Queen Mary 2
38
34-49 FEATURE- QM2 Literature.indd 38
6/9/23 10:52 AM
walking up Arthur’s Seat. There are so many secret bits of Edinburgh that are lovely to walk. Walk down what’s called Bells Brae, which is just off Queensferry Street, and you’ll come into what’s called Dean Village, which is gorgeous and, at one time, was all warehouses and water mills. There you’ll find Water of Leith — a river that runs through Edinburgh — and you can walk along it to Stockbridge, a very chi-chi part of Edinburgh in the New Town. Or you can keep on going all the way to Leith, which is only two or three miles. You’ll be walking along this river and find that the city has all but disappeared — you get very little sense that you’re in the middle of a city.” But right now, we’re not in Edinburgh. We’re aboard Queen Mary 2 for the Literature Festival at Sea and Rankin is thinking ahead to the two-hour “Crime Writing Workshop” he’ll be conducting the following day. It’s one of the festival’s intimate “master classes” available at no charge (but reservations are required) to guests aboard this crossing. “I’m supposed to show people how I construct a plot but the truth is I don’t know how I do it. I just make stuff up as I go along.” Why do the best and most accomplished writers make it sound so easy?
M A K I N G U P W I T H T H E M A ST E R
.
Ian Rankin on board
34-49 FEATURE- QM2 Literature.indd 39
39
6/9/23 10:52 AM
1 A seasoned cruise photographer explores the region by river and by sea.
2 40
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 40
This photo essay was built from two separate voyages: an autumn cruise along the Douro River in Portugal and a spring excursion winding through the Western Mediterranean, taking in the Balearic Islands, the South of France, Italy, and Corsica. The softer, more manageable seasonal light enabled these images of some memorable destinations — some familiar, some less so. I was the guest of Scenic on board the supremely comfortable Scenic Azure during a 7-day Douro River cruise and then of Oceania on the elegantly refurbished and spacious Sirena, sailing from the Balearic Islands in a Mediterranean loop closing in Barcelona.
3 6/9/23 10:54 AM
1. Oceania
Sirena’s Terrace Cafe, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with uninterrupted ocean views on Deck Nine.
2. A quiet
lunch for two in the old quarter of Porto. The city has many such simple and inexpensive tavernas, tiny enterprises sometimes seating no more than a dozen people.
3. A pleasure
craft waits to set out on the magnificent Douro. The river wanders 550 miles from its source in Spain to meet the Atlantic at Porto.
WATER & LIGHT WORDS & PHOTOS BY ANDREW MACLEAR
41
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 41
6/9/23 10:55 AM
LEFT: Multicolored, pastel facades of townhouses in the Ribeira district of Porto facing the riverfront. OPPOSITE: 1. Miso-glazed sea bass wrapped in hoba (magnolia) leaf at Oceania’s Red Ginger specialty restaurant. 2. Scenic Azure’s executive chef Marcelino Andrade has been in the culinary world since he was a teenager. 3. A quiet table with ocean views in Oceania’s calm and elegant grand dining room. 4. Chef Marcelino prepares for the evening with galley staff. 5. A view, from Oceania’s Sirena, of Mahon’s headland as the ship departs Menorca, sailing overnight to Marseille.
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 42
6/9/23 10:55 AM
3
4
5
6
7
8
1
6. Mussels ready to go to Scenic’s Table d’Or dining venue. 7. A red beetroot cone with potato foam and keta caviar amuse bouche from Scenic’s kitchen. 8. Scenic’s sommelier and waitstaff during the mid-evening service.
2
9. The famous Sandeman sherry logo, standing atop a hill overlooking Porto.
9 43
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 43
6/9/23 10:55 AM
2
1
3
44
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 44
6/9/23 10:55 AM
OPPOSITE: 1. If money is no object, take a table at the Cafe de Paris in Monte Carlo. Otherwise, it’s better to look and keep walking. 2. Artisanal bread and rolls with roasted garlic in Sirena’s Tuscan specialty restaurant. 3. Kitchen life during midevening service in Sirena’s galley under the command of Executive Chef Simon Hockley. RIGHT: An Oceania day excursion takes us to a quiet street in Soller, Mallorca — a beautifully preserved town in the Sierra Tramontana.
45
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 45
6/9/23 10:55 AM
LEFT: On a day visit to Lucca, Tuscany, with Oceania, we see split shutters designed to admit air during high summer. OPPOSITE: 1. A baroque, 17th-century courtyard — one among many — in Palma Mallorca’s old town. 2. A mural in the port of Ajaccio, Corsica, on Sirena’s route toward Barcelona.
46
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 46
6/9/23 10:55 AM
2
1 3. Oysters and champagne in the Mercat del Olivar, on a day stop with Oceania at Palma Mallorca.
.
3 47
40-47 FEATURE- MED photo essay.indd 47
6/9/23 10:55 AM
Good Vibes
Good Vibes Around the World Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. By Alex Darlington
Kimpton Shorebreak Fort Lauderdale
The innovative people at Kimpton Hotels have come up with a thoughtful way to make guests more comfortable by providing each with his or her own personal houseplant: introducing the “Kimpton Plant Pals Program.” It couldn’t be simpler. You just ask at the desk when you check in, and a unique and beautiful plant — along with instructions on its care — will be brought to your room. Plants in general are scientifically proven to clean the air, reduce stress, and improve mental health. Nothing about these plants is run-of-the mill. Most are locally sourced, which helps the environment. And these plant pals are all specially curated by larger-thanlife plant expert Christopher Griffin.
Christopher Griffin, Plant Kween
Left: Kimpton Shorebreak, Icons-Studio/Adobe Stock, Karlee Ferris Right: Icons-Studio/Adobe Stock, Piper & Skye, Icons-Studio/Adobe Stock, AmaWaterways (x3); MacroOne/Adobe Stock
Green Buddies
48
48-52 GOOD VIBES.indd 48
6/9/23 10:56 AM
BEST LIFE
Cleaner Cruising Nets Big Funding Hurtigruten Norway just came a step closer to its goal of launching its first zeroemission ship by 2030. The cruise line has been awarded 7 million euros (about $7.5 million) in public funding for a groundbreaking research project. The 7 million-euro grant will be added to the 6 million euros already awarded. Hurtigruten, research institute SINTEF, and other partners will be considering effective ways to create the most energy-efficient, sustainable ship ever. “Consumers will not continue to accept the use of heavy fuel oil or climate targets that are way behind the Paris Agreement,” says Gerry Larsson-Fedde, Hurtigruten Norway SVP for Marine Operations. “Zero emissions will be the gamechanger our industry needs.”
Fashion for the Future Hats off to Piper & Skye, a company that not only creates beautifully crafted luxury handbags and accessories, but helps save our planet as well. All their bags, wallets, and other products are fashioned out of materials with a low carbon footprint and made from invasive species. Case in point: The pirarucu fish, a giant water creature native to the Amazon, is one of the many predatory exotics that are ruining the Florida Everglades. Piper & Skye use the skins of these invaders for many of their products. The company stands solidly behind its ethos: “Responsible Luxury.”
Avignon, France
Pyramids, Jazz, and Heritage on the River AmaWaterways proudly announces a series of special-interest cruises and excursions that celebrate the African and Black diaspora in 2024. The adventures, known collectively as “The Soulful Epicurean Experience,” include Secrets of Egypt & The Nile, a cruise that embarks from Cairo, and offers excursions to the Great
Pyramids guided by experienced Egyptologists. Also offered is The Colors of Provence, a journey between Ares and Lyon on France’s Rhone River. It includes a full-day Black Heritage Tour of Marseilles, showcasing the area’s best jazz, wine, and food. What’s more, there will be a 3-day land excursion in Paris, which includes a Black History of Paris city tour.
.
49
48-52 GOOD VIBES.indd 49
6/9/23 10:56 AM
Good Vibes
Geothermal Iceland Steamy spas work in harmony with volcanic forces — and Earth-friendly power plants. by Lola Méndez
Sulfur-rich silica has many skin benefits. “Hydrogen sulfide improves hydration which can make skin look plumper, reduces
inflammation which can soothe irritated skin, enhances skincell turnover which can improve skin’s texture, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles by stimulating collagen production,” says Dr. Asmi Sanghvi, a boardcertified dermatologist at PFRANKMD. According to Dr. Sanghvi, silica is beneficial for various skin conditions including psoriasis, eczema, and acne. Learning that silica may be beneficial to my eczema, my first stop in Reykjavík (Iceland’s capital city, a name that means “steamy bay”) was Nauthólsvik Beach to take a dip in the free geothermal dipping pool. The next day, I joined Trafalgar’s Iceland
Including the Blue Lagoon tour and my education in Iceland’s geothermal activity began. Iceland’s geothermal tourism circuit goes beyond volcanoes, geysers, steam plumes, and hot springs to include visits to geothermal power plants. With Trafalgar, I visited the Hellisheiði ON Power Plant — the largest single-site geothermal power plant on Earth. Iceland is positioned along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where heat
generated from underground volcanic activity affords clean energy. “Iceland is located above a volcanic hotspot with more than 200 volcanoes,” explains Dr. Birol Dindoruk, a petroleum engineering professor at the University of Houston. “Magma underneath Iceland heats underground water which can be used for geothermal energy.” The island nation is a pioneer in utilizing this energy from the Earth’s interior for heating.
Glass windows allow visitors to watch the power plant’s turbine halls.
The development of geothermal heating for residences began after World War II to reduce dependence on costly and environmentally hazardous fossil fuels. “Geothermal energy is a renewable and sustainable source of energy, as it’s continuously replenished by the Earth’s heat, making it an eco-friendly substitute for fossil fuels,” says Laufey Guðmundsdóttir, manager of the Geothermal Exhibition at Hellisheiði. “Iceland’s ample geothermal resources offer an uninterrupted supply of clean energy, enabling the country to reduce its reliance on fossil fuels and lower its greenhouse gas emissions.”
oldmn - stock.adobe.com
A
fter a long journey to Iceland, I was desperate for a hot shower. But when I turned on the faucet I was overwhelmed by an egg-like stench. The odor came from silica impregnated with hydrogen sulfide, which is present in Iceland’s hot water due to the island’s immense geothermal activity. The water was perfectly clean and safe for a shower. The sulfuric smell only streams from the tap when the water is hot — the same tap provides perfectly potable cold drinking water.
50
48-52 GOOD VIBES.indd 50
6/12/23 2:21 PM
BEST LIFE
Today, 85 percent of Iceland’s energy comes from renewable geothermal and hydroelectric powerhouses. “Geothermal activity in Iceland is a significant part of the country’s culture, economy, and energy infrastructure. About 30 percent of Iceland’s electricity comes from geothermal sources,” Guðmundsdóttir says. “Nearly 90 percent of Icelandic households are heated with
Iceland’s geothermal tourism circuit goes beyond volcanoes, geysers, steam plumes, and hot springs to include visits to geothermal power plants. geothermal energy, making it a primary source of heating for homes, businesses, and institutions.” Hellisheiði power
station, on the mosscovered slopes of the active Hengill Volcano, is a mustvisit for travelers keen to learn about
Blue Planet Studio - stock.adobe.com; dennisvdwater - stock.adobe.com; Lola Méndez (x2)
Blue Lagoon
Iceland’s dedication to environmental stewardship and clean energy. Glass windows allow visitors to watch the power plant’s turbine halls, and in 2007, Hellisheiði debuted a first-of-its-kind educational installation at a geothermal power plant. The interactive multimedia display at the Geothermal Exhibition showcases the process of geothermal energy production, Iceland’s
geothermal history, and how turbines operate. “When hot water reaches the surface, pressure is dropped and the water changes to steam,” Dr. Dindoruk says. “The steam spins a turbine, which is connected to a generator that produces electricity. For directuse applications, the water is used directly for space heating, with heat being distributed to buildings through extensive districtheating systems.”
Blue Lagoon
Hellisheiði ON Power Plant
Blue Lagoon
51
48-52 GOOD VIBES.indd 51
6/9/23 10:56 AM
Good Vibes
BEST LIFE
Geothermal plants like Hellisheiði create energy for the country … and also heat showers in hotels and residences. Iceland’s geothermal pool culture wouldn’t exist without the silica-rich byproduct of geothermal power plants. I visited the world-renowned Blue Lagoon and spent hours soaking in runoff wastewater from the adjoining Svartsengi Resource Park, which provides 100 percent of the energy to power the Blue Lagoon. “Waste heat from geothermal power plants is utilized for geothermal pools rather than being wasted, which helps to maximize the utilization of the geothermal resource and creates a zero-waste approach,” Guðmundsdóttir says. Blue Lagoon
Krýsuvík Geothermal
Geysir Geothermal Area
Iceland’s geothermal activity lends itself to an otherworldly landscape that appears to almost always be steaming. I became intimately acquainted with the “Land of Fire and Ice” through visits to Deildartunguhver (Europe’s highest-flowing hot spring) and the Krýsuvík Geothermal Area. We saw the site of the Great Geysir, which is now mostly dormant but was the first documented geyser in modern science. This landmark became the namesake of the scientific term “geyser,” derived from the word for “to gush” in Norse. But the star of the show at The Geysir Geothermal Area is the Strokkur Geyser. Every 10 minutes, roughly, Strokkur spews a blast of hot water nearly 100 feet high. That’s an apt symbol of the power at work in this land of snow and steam.
.
Lola Méndez (x3)
Iceland's geothermal activity lends itself to an otherworldly landscape that appears to almost always be steaming.
52
48-52 GOOD VIBES.indd 52
6/9/23 10:56 AM
On it.
Ending racial injustice requires all of us to work together and take real action. What can you do to help? Educate yourself about the history of American racism, privilege and what it means to be anti-racist. Educate yourself
about the history of American racism, privilege and what it means to be anti-racist.
Commit to actions that challenge injustice and make everyone feel like they belong, such as challenging biased or racist language when you hear it. Vote in national and local elections to ensure your elected officials share your vision of public safety. Donate to organizations, campaigns and initiatives who are committed to racial justice.
Let’s come together to take action against racism and fight for racial justice for the Black community. Visit lovehasnolabels.com/fightforfreedom
53 Ad Council luv.indd 53
6/12/23 10:02 AM
Leland & Sea
It’s A Jungle Out There Steve Leland wanders the world in style. Now he is in Borneo & Bali. by Steve Leland
f you follow this column, you know that I try to seek out off-the-radar destinations and get ahead of mainstream travel trends.
Last issue, I shared what I consider to be one of the best cruise adventures I have ever taken. The Aqua Blu yacht itinerary in Raja Ampat was otherworldly … but to justify the long flight, I wanted more than just seven days in beautiful Indonesia. With a little research for post-cruise options, I stumbled upon the mother lode of travel secrets: a 3-night stay at the Ulaman Eco Retreat in Bali and a 3-night river cruise in Borneo with Wow Borneo.
Cruising the Rivers of Borneo The primal sounds of the jungle greeted us as we stepped out of our airconditioned cabin. Less than 12 hours had passed since we had sailed from Kumai and yet here we were, aboard a traditional Indonesian klotok gliding through the murky waters of the Sekonyer River in Borneo. We had already been welcomed by a dozen long-tailed macaques scurrying along the bank and only a few minutes later, a curious group of proboscis monkeys watched as we sailed by. Could things get any better?
We had signed on for this river adventure pre-pandemic and now after three years, our patience was being rewarded with a 4-day cruise through the waterways of the Tanjung National Park aboard the three-cabin Sekonyer, named for the river. Leaving the planning to Gaye Thavisin and Harris Madden, co-owners of Wow Borneo, fulfilled all the promises of the term “soft adventure.” This style of cruising is raw enough to stoke adrenaline yet with ample niceties for comfort. We weren’t stalking the long forgotten wild men of Borneo … but seeking out the endemic Borneo orangutan. In Indonesian, orang means person and hutan translates to forest, literally defining the orangutan as “person of the forest.” At one time considered an endangered species, these fascinating creatures now number greater than 6,000 in the park due to coordinated preservation efforts. We crept through the narrow channel to Camp Pondok Tanggui, pulled alongside a rudimentary dock, and stepped ashore for an easy 1-mile trek to a wooden platform set deep in the jungle. Camp staff layered it with bananas and sweet potatoes. Then, two orangutans precariously perched 25 feet above us slowly descended.
WOW Borneo (x6)
I
54
54-57 LELAND & SEA- bali.indd 54
6/9/23 11:01 AM
BEST LIFE
Four more females magically appeared out of the jungle and climbed the platform, settling in to partake in the feast set before them. Naturally inquisitive, their soulful eyes searched for our intentions as they graciously posed for our cameras. A mother with a 3-week-old baby clinging to her back snatched a handful of bananas and scurried to a branch within arms reach of her audience. Once their bellies were full, the entire troop exited into the forest. Back on board, a refreshing shower and a feast of our own completed the morning’s adventure as we entered the Black River. Later that afternoon, sailing up the ever-narrowing channel, Captain Eson took machete in hand to whack away at tree branches that hindered our progress. We arrived at Camp Leakey, an unassuming research facility created by two individuals passionate about studying the native orangutans. They set up feeding stations not as a domestication attempt but as a vital effort to supplement the orangutans’ diet. Today’s star attraction was a solitary male posturing over a mound of bananas, striking a pose that proudly
proclaimed “look at me” as he laid claim to the bounty of food. Like a circus acrobat, a lone, white-faced gibbon cautiously tiptoed towards the great ape’s prized lunch. Quickly filling his mouth, the brave bandit scurried up a towering tree in a show worthy of a Discovery Channel documentary. The brilliant plumage of the storkbill kingfishers that dart across our path grabbed my attention. Sightings of the rhinoceros hornbill, Storm’s stork, and others will appeal to those who appreciate watching our feathered friends. On our last day, a troop of 50 or more male proboscis monkeys escorted us to Camp Tanjung Harapan, where a massive alpha male orangutan and his harem of ladies with babies in tow dined to their heart’s content. With an ever-smiling crew of five to navigate the river, serve three meals a day, and provide daily cabin service — and our naturalist guide Faisal explaining nature’s wonder every step of the way — it was a journey into another world. Wow Borneo operates two boats in the Tanjung National Park and three others doing similar itineraries from their base in Palangkaraya, preserving the orangutans and local culture of Borneo one boat trip at a time.
HOME ON THE RIVER The perfect platform for "soft adventure" on Borneo's Sekonyer River is the threecabin riverboat also named Sekonyer, a comfortable base to watch the wildlife of Tanjung National Park.
BORNEO 55
54-57 LELAND & SEA- bali.indd 55
6/9/23 11:01 AM
Leland & Sea
EARTH AS HEAVEN Ulaman Eco Retreat proves that sustainable architecture can be luxuriously beautiful, with 20 unique villas crafted to fit seamlessly into their idyllic surroundings.
Ulaman, A Retreat From Normal I had always envisioned eco-anything as something that sacrifices luxury in the name of responsible tourism, but … visualize a lifestyle resort that adheres to the principles of sustainability while offering chic luxurious accommodations and you’ll uncover Bali’s Ulaman Eco Retreat. Accommodations in a class of their own surround a virtual Garden of Eden with not a forbidden fruit in sight. Constructed with 80 percent locally sourced bamboo, a renewable material, 20 distinct villas stand alongside gushing waterfalls of the Ulaman River. Four lofty Sky Villas rise up 30 meters (98 feet) from the jungle floor on dozens of massive bamboo stilts. Ornate circular stairways wind their way to these podlike accommodations fitted with 5-star accoutrements: king beds framed by handcarved wood headboards, polished bamboo flooring and ceiling rafters, and artistic wood craftsmanship.
Swaddled in giant bamboo capsules, two Cocoon Upper Deluxe Villas hover above an infinity swimming pool, while the Deluxe Suite situated in the main pavilion has direct access to the stunning reflection pool. For guests that seek privacy, one-bedroom villas with private pools sit slightly away from the central areas.
Aqua Expeditions (x4)
Down below, four Lake Villas flank a tributary of the river. Outdoor decks have a netted basket that permits guests to relax suspended over the water.
56
54-57 LELAND & SEA- bali.indd 56
6/9/23 11:01 AM
BEST LIFE
Start planning for a holiday in Bali and you'll find dozens of beach resorts. But Ulaman is a rewarding alternative to spending mindless days on the sand. Early-morning yoga sessions tap into inner reflection. Follow a delicious and healthy breakfast with a dip in two infinity swimming pools or enjoy unlimited access to a spa that features an infrared sauna, a steam room, and hot and cold plunge pools. Trained staff with magic hands stand ready for the personal pampering of a soothing massage.
Ulaman Eco Retreat (x7)
Activities like tennis, pickleball, sound healing by a guru, cooking classes, and excursions like a rice-paddy walkabout fill the days. At night, the resort sparkles with lit pathways leading to the EARTH restaurant for romantic dinners under the stars. It’s comforting to know that you can be a participant in an ecologically responsible way without sacrificing self-indulgence. As the eco trend grows, the Ulaman Eco Retreat won’t remain secret for long.
.
BAMBOO, RICE AND YOU Nature-based wellness options include a rice-paddy walkabout, not to mention the tranquility of yoga and massage in lush, green environs.
BALI 57
54-57 LELAND & SEA- bali.indd 57
6/9/23 11:01 AM
Sail Away
BEST LIFE
DanitaDelimont / AWL Images
Lions Gate Bridge, Vancouver, BC
The stars come out at sunset in British Columbia ... or at least the starfish do in the clear water of the first narrows of Burrard Inlet. Lions Gate Bridge, formally known as First Narrows Bridge, got its nickname from The Lions, twin peaks in the North Shore Mountains visible from most of the city of Vancouver. This is a favorite spot to watch boats and the sunset.” 58
58 SAIL AWAY.indd 58
6/9/23 11:02 AM
To Someone Who Stutters, It’s Easier Done Than Said. The fear of speaking keeps many people from being heard. If you stutter or know someone who does, visit us online or call toll-free for more information.
THE
800-992-9392
STUTTERING FOUNDATION
®
A Nonprofit Organization Since 1947—Helping Those Who Stutter
www.StutteringHelp.org
Stuttering PSA FP.indd 3
www.tartamudez.org
6/12/23 10:04 AM
“WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU SAW SOMETHING FOR THE FIRST TIME?”
MANDALAY, MYANMAR
Find your next first time at Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine. Subscribe at porthole.com
Porthole PH246_FirstTime_MYANMAR.indd 4
6/12/23 10:04 AM