PRINCESS VOYAGES AK 2019 by ppigroup

VOYAGES Your onboard guide to cruising Alaska

juneau-menclature: whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a name? port reports: seattle to skagway and beyond! hidden worlds: underwater alaska

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CONTENTS

26 12 26

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

By Shane Turner, Editor-in-Chief

KICKSTART YOUR CRUISE ADVENTURE

WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW AT SEA

Stay on top of the latest Princess news.

CULINARY CRAVINGS

ENGAGING ENTERTAINMENT

THE SHOPS OF PRINCESS

TAX- AND DUTY-FREE SAVINGS

FIND YOUR FORTUNE

PRINCESS SOUVENIRS AT SEA

Celebrate 50 years of Princess with an

Alaskan-inspired collection of accessories.

NEXT STOP: SOMEWHERE AMAZING

10 ESSENTIAL ITEMS ON YOUR PACKING LIST

How to get the most out of your first day on board

PRINCESS CRUISES (4)

VOYAGES: Alaska

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369 South Franklin Street, Juneau, AK 99801 | 907.523.1101 495 South Franklin Street, Juneau, AK 99801 | 907.523.5683 400 Mission Street, Ketchikan, AK 99901 | 907.225.1880 212 Front Street, Ketchikan, AK 99901 bluediamondgems.com

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CONTENTS FEATURES

THE ROOT CAUSE

Spruce root weaving has produced arts,

crafts and necessary wares for generations.

By Janet Groene

MORE THAN MAPLE

With birch syrup, there’s a new flavor to savor.

By Jen Dennis

UNDERWATER WORLDS

From killer whales to stealthy submarines, there are hidden

worlds filled with amazing secrets just below Alaska’s waterline.

By Jack Feerick

ALASKA’S NATURE TABLE

Southeast Alaska is a resource unto itself for so many

of the foods you and generations of locals enjoy here.

By Erin Kirkland

STREET SMARTS

Mystery, conundrums and fascinating stories

lurk around every corner of Juneau.

By Janet Groene

PORTS OF CALL

72 JUNEAU 76 KETCHIKAN 84 SEATTLE 85 SITKA 86 SKAGWAY 92 VANCOUVER 93 VICTORIA 94 WHITTIER 4

PRINCESS MAURICIO CRUISES HANDLER/GETTY IMAGES; AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; CORY NEWBERRY/ONE TREE ALASKA; SUPERSTOCK

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VOYAGES

Shane Turner President Shanée Catalfamo Vice President Jennifer Feldman Vice President, Sales Mark Stringer Executive Director Suzanne Kilic Director of Sales & Strategic Partnerships Martin Eyssell Director, Marketing & Media James Myers Guest Experience Director Susanna Meader Marketing & Project Manager EDITORIAL & DESIGN Shane Turner Editor-in-Chief Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director Phillip Crandall Managing Editors Grant Balfour Chanel Samson Copy Editor Laura Roche Senior Art Director Caroline Geertz Art Directors Skip Anderson

Maria Baro Production Director Tammy Robinson Ads Services Director Alexandria Geubelle Creative Assistant Sara Linda Proofreader Jen Dennis Contributing Writers Jack Feerick Janet Groene Erin Kirkland

Alamy Contributing Photographers Alaska State Archives Getty Images Cory Newberry Superstock

Princess Cruises Cover Image SPECIAL THANKS Kelli Coleman, Ken Kikkawa, Kristine Weiss, Julia Rios PRINCESS CRUISES 24303 Town Center Drive Santa Clarita, CA 91355 1-800-774-6237 MYRIAD 6033 W Century Boulevard, Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90045 Tel: +1 310 649 7700 Voyages is published under contract to PPI Group. Please address all correspondence to Voyages c/o 7 Seas Media 7 W 45th Street 10th Floor New York, NY 10036 917.997.SEAS www.7seasmedia.com

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FEATURED BUSINESSES HAVE PAID TO BE INCLUDED IN THIS PUBLICATION INGRAM IMAGE

© 2019 7 Seas Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Voyages is published under contract to 7 Seas Media, Inc. The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to info@7SeasMedia. com. Any prices quoted are subject to change, but correct at press time. Commentary and opinions expressed in Voyages are not necessarily those of the publisher or cruise line. Voyages and 7 Seas Media, Inc. are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Voyages.

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Welcome to the latest issue of Voyages, the only publication you’ll need to get the most out of your Alaskan journey and this beautiful ship. Surely the onboard experiences you’ve already had are making this vacation one you’ll always remember, and it is our hope that Voyages only complements those memories by showcasing not only the services and amenities offered on board, but also insider tips at getting the most of your Alaska adventure. After all, with 2019 marking the 50th anniversary of Princess Cruises’ first Alaskan cruise, who better to lead the way? In this issue, we spotlight the art of spruce root weaving (page 32) and the history of Juneau’s street names (page 62). Foodies will enjoy getting to know the often-overshadowed birch syrup (page 42) as well as the many ways generations of Alaskans have foraged for delicious, natural food (page 56). And, of course, we provide an up-close look at every port you’ll have the pleasure to visit, along with recommendations of places to see, things to know and hotspots to shop. While on board, be sure to take advantage of the complimentary custom recommendations provided by your onboard Princess Shopping Concierge, who will guide you through your limitless opportunities both on board and ashore. The Princess Shopping Concierge is here to help you save time and money so you can make the most of your stay on board. So what will be the moments that define your vacation? Seeing a breaching whale in the not-allthat-faraway distance? Shopping for Alaskan art and duty-free gems? Spending time with friends and family as you await the Northern Lights? Whatever your pleasure, we wish you the journey of a lifetime.

Shane Turner, Editor-in-Chief

VOYAGES: Alaska

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#FollowTheLight

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AVA I L A B L E O N B OA R D J U N E A U I K E T C H I K A N I S K A G W AY

E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9

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KICKSTART yo u r

Cruise Adventure

VOYAGES: Alaska

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Whether you’re a first-time cruiser or a seasoned voyager, we promise that your first day on board will be among the most memorable. You’re finally ready to set sail on an exciting cruise vacation where you can relax on board, be surrounded by refreshing ocean breezes and the anticipation of adventures to come.

HERE’S OUR GUIDE FOR WHAT TO DO ON YOUR FIRST DAY! MORNING

BON VOYAGE! Your vacation has officially commenced. Your cruise card or OceanMedallion™ is activated, granting you access to your stateroom and payment options on OceanMedallion-enabled ships. You’ll also receive access to gaming, entertainment and more! This is also prime time to scope out all your soon-tobe favorite spots on board. Sign the kids up for Camp Discovery™ and locate your ideal deckchair. AFTERNOON

LUNCH TIME AND COCKTAIL TIME! Head to Horizon Court or World Fresh Marketplace for your first delicious meal at sea. Try a tasty crêpe or sample savory Asian-style noodles. Visit other onboard dining venues or sip on a refreshing beverage while getting into vacation mode. Master mixologist Rob Floyd has shaken up the traditional cocktail menu with ultra-fun creations. Try the raspberry liqueur-spiked Princess Punch made with Absolut Elyx vodka and ginger beer, or enjoy a hint of mint and lime in a nonalcoholic Zero Mojito.

CHECK OUT YOUR DIGS. Drop off your carry-on bags (your checked luggage will be hand-delivered later) in your stateroom. The lifejackets in your cabin are marked with a letter to indicate where your muster drill will be.

BOOK YOUR SPOTS. Specialty dining reservations and shore excursions fill up fast, so reserve early for the most options. Take a tour of the spa, ask about port day specials and enter the raffle to win free services!

SAFETY FIRST. Gather in your designated meeting area for the mandatory muster drill. Crew members will walk you through necessary safety information and teach you how to properly put on a life vest. These drills take place about 45 minutes before departure.

CELEBRATE AT THE SAILAWAY PARTY! After the safety drill, head to the deck to sail away in style! Say cheers to the start of your adventure with live music, cocktails, dancing and new friends at our epic Sailaway party. EVENING

SETTLE IN FOR DINNER. Whether you have reservations for dinner at one of our specialty restaurants* or enjoy the delicious offerings in one of our main dining rooms, there are options sure to satisfy everyone’s cravings. *Enjoy specialty restaurants for a nominal fee.

ENTERTAINMENT ALL NIGHT LONG! Be dazzled by Broadway-caliber entertainment and captivating magic shows Show off your talent in the Voice of the Ocean or enjoy a blockbuster hit at Movies Under the Stars.® Go on, the night is yours! princess cruises

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What’s New

AT SEA

Stay on top of the latest Princess® news.

A TASTE OF FRANCE Among our multiple award-winning dining venues, you definitely want a seat at La Mer. Alongside three-Michelin-starred chef Emmanuel Renaut, creator of Flocons de Sel in France, this airy bistro presents modern French cuisine paired with an allFrench wine list. Delight in every course from tender Filet de boeuf poelé (beef filet mignon) to the last sweet bite of your Mont Blanc dessert. This French culinary mastery awaits you on Majestic Princess,® Sky Princess and Enchanted Princess. MEDALLIONCLASS™ ON YOUR NEXT VOYAGE There’s a feeling of belonging when you step into a space where everyone knows you by name. That’s why you’ll love the attentive service with Princess MedallionClass,™ available on Caribbean Princess,® Regal Princess® and Royal Princess,® and arriving soon on Crown Princess.® Sky Princess® and Enchanted Princess® were actually built from the ground up with the MedallionClass experience. The key is a quarter-sized wearable OceanMedallion. Enjoy seamless and hassle-free embarkation; drinks and food delivered virtually anywhere on the ship; rely on point-topoint wayfinding throughout the ship, plus easily locate and chat with one another on board using ShipMates. Along with the best Wi-Fi at sea, these high-tech features will make your next voyage your most personal. 14

REACH FOR THE SKY Our new top-deck Sky Suites onboard Sky Princess and Enchanted Princess offer plenty of space to entertain and relax. Each suite features two bedrooms, two bathrooms and 270-degree ocean views from the largest balconies at sea. In addition to priority access, a bounty of exclusive benefits are included: a pre-cruise concierge to prepare for all your needs, a dedicated Suite Experience Manager from the moment you arrive, and unique experiences such as Ultimate Balcony Dining and Movies Under the Stars viewing from your private balcony.

the largest balcony at sea!

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CULINARY CRAVINGS

Dining Your Way Our complimentary Anytime℠ dining and Traditional dining have been perfected to cater to every taste in order to exceed all expectations. Gather around a 16

table in our main dining room for Anytime dining, where you’ll have the freedom to decide how and when you want to dine. Enjoy your meal at an intimate table for two one evening and join new friends for a

We believe that fresh is a flavor, and that’s why we’re committed to cultivating the finest and most flavorful ingredients possible, ensuring your meal is always fresh and delicious. Tear off a piece of our fresh bread baked daily, or bite into a piece of tender steak that’s handcut and cooked to perfection. Our culinary offerings are always prepared straight from the heart, and we hope you enjoy!

festive dinner the next. For a classic cruise experience, Traditional dining allows you to dine at the same time each evening with the same tablemates and waitstaff throughout your entire voyage.

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Take Your Pick with Specialty Dining Our specialty restaurants span the culinary spectrum from classic Italian cuisine to steakhouse fare and extravagant multicourse dinners. At Sabatini’s™ enjoy rustic northern Italian favorites like handmade pasta dishes, and delight in tender steaks and fresh seafood at Crown Grill.℠ For a unique culinary experience, dine on multiple courses of innovative dishes at the Chef’s Table Lumiere. Balcony Dining We’ll arrange an intimate dining setting for you on the comfort of your balcony, where endless views of the destinations you’re sailing to will complement your al fresco meal. Celebrate a special occasion with flowers or Champagne while our dedicated waitstaff serves you a four-course dinner or a delicious breakfast. Crowd Pleasers Indulge in a rotating menu serving up familiar favorites all day at Horizon Court, including hot soups, fresh salads and handcrafted sandwiches. Or visit the International Cafe for more crowd pleasers. Don’t forget to stop on the top deck to grab a slice of Neapolitanstyle pizza, named “Best Pizza at Sea” by USA Today. Or head to our main dining room where you can sample bold dishes crafted by renowned chef Curtis Stone.

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VOYAGES: Alaska

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Entertainment takes center stage on board Princess Cruises.® From exuberant Broadwaycaliber performances to a big-screen hit displayed beneath a canopy of stars, exciting entertainment options beckon from every corner of your ship.

LIGHTS. CAMERA. ACTION! Prepare for spellbinding productions, folkloric worlds and dazzling multimedia performances with our unprecedented partnership with Oscar,® GRAMMY® and Tony Award®-winning composer Stephen Schwartz. Be captivated by remarkable shows like Magic to Do, Born to Dance and The Secret Silk — created exclusively for Princess. Discover other original entertainment shows like the toprated Bravo! and the elegance of ballroom dancing and orchestral music at Encore. Plus, enjoy top comedians, illusionists and musicians throughout your voyage!

THE VOICE OF THE OCEAN Step into the limelight and compete in The Voice of the Ocean. Based off of the widely acclaimed singing TV show The Voice, you’ll love this wildly popular musical competition complete with the iconic spinning chairs. Now enjoy a “teen edition” too!

MOVIES UNDER THE STARS Snuggle up poolside under a blanket of stars and enjoy a feature film,

enthralling concert, exciting sporting events like professional football and more with Movies Under the Stars. Our 300-square-foot outdoor movie theater — and complimentary popcorn — make for an unforgettable experience on board your ship.

PIAZZA Discover Old World charm inspired by the bustling squares of Europe in our lively Piazza. You’ll encounter animated performers and engaging demonstrations while you sip a cup of gourmet coffee or a glass of wine from the comfort of your seat, right in front of the experience!

DISCOVERY AT SEA Prepare to be mystified and thoroughly entertained with our Discovery at SEA™ partnerships. Uncover the secrets of the night sky and stars with our guided Stargazing experience tour and be captivated by activities featuring Discovery™ hit programs such as MythBusters, Deadliest Catch and Shark Week. Let your kids’ imaginations run free at Camp Discovery, featuring kid and teen tailored programs.

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T H E

S H O P S of

P R I N C E S S

The memories you make traveling will remain with you in many different ways. You’ll return home with photos, stories and smiles, already anticipating your next cruise. Another meaningful way to commemorate your time spent at sea with loved ones is with a gift from The Shops of Princess.® Our shops offer coveted brands and attentive service that enable you to shop authentic merchandise while sailing to wondrous destinations around the globe. 20

Wander our remarkable selection of on-trend jewelry and designer handbags or pick out the perfect pair of Ray Ban, Maui Jim or Oakley sunglasses for the beach. This dutyfree shopper’s paradise rewards shoppers with up to 30% off retail prices, European and American designer brands and unique local and destination products. If there’s a piece of jewelry you’ve been eyeing for a loved one or yourself, purchasing it on board Princess ensures unparalleled customer service, industry expertise and the lowest price guaranteed, due to our strong relationships with some of the world’s most coveted timepiece brands. Be dazzled by over 5,000 designs from EFFY Jewelry and wander our selection of timeless accessories by luxury brands like OMEGA, Hublot and TAG Heuer.

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Named BEST ONBOARD SHOPPING by Porthole Cruise Magazine, our shops at sea reward you with the best selections and best value throughout your entire voyage.

Shop with CHANEL AMBASSADORS Did you know we’re the only cruise line that works with Chanel at sea? On select ships, enhance your onboard shopping experience with a personalized consultation from a Chanel Beauty Ambassador for fragrance selections, treatments and make-up. These beauty ambassadors are trained directly by Chanel in order to provide you with top-notch beauty advice from one of the most recognized and coveted brands known around the world. Meet with a Chanel Beauty Ambassador on Majestic Princess, Diamond Princess,® Sapphire Princess,® Sun Princess,® Caribbean Princess, Royal Princess and Regal Princess.

Meet STANLEY! Stanley has quickly become one of the most adored personalities of Princess. He’s typically impeccably dressed in his honorary Captain’s uniform, and he never fails to bring a smile to everyone’s face on board. Stanley made his debut in 2017 after a Facebook naming contest deemed him “Stanley,” honoring the founder of Princess Cruises, Stanley B. McDonald. This beloved bear is a great traveling buddy for children, and he’s sure to inspire new and creative traditions that get the whole family involved. Be sure to share your adventures with Stanley using #StanleyatSea. princess cruises

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THE SHOPS of PRINCESS TAX- AND DUTY-FREE SAVINGS Did you know that something amazing happens the moment your Princess ship crosses into international waters? All products at The Shops of Princess drop in price and become tax-free. Plus, certain items have additional duty-free savings.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Face and Eye Set

A LL I T E MS A RE TAX-F RE E AT The S ho ps of Pr in c ess!

Baileys Original Irish Cream

SAVE BIG WHEN YOU PURCHASE PRODUCTS THAT ARE BOTH TAX- AND DUTY-FREE. HERE’S WHAT OUR RETAIL TEAM RECOMMENDS... UP TO

30%

UP TO

OFF COSMETICS AND FRAGRANCES 50% OFF PREMIUM LIQUOR

Carolina Herrera Good Girl Johnnie Walker Blue Label

Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Gel

TAX-FREE items mean that you are exempt from paying a consumption tax, also known as a value-added tax (VAT) or sales tax. All merchandise in The Shops of Princess is a great value thanks to these tax-free savings. 22

Chanel Gabrielle

DUTY-FREE means items are exempt from taxes imposed by governments on certain goods like liquor or tobacco and are also exempt from a customs duty, which is applied to goods that are transported across international borders.

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fortune F I N D

WIN BIG AT SEA Feeling lucky? Our onboard casino and bingo lounges have a variety of favorite table games, classic bingo games, video poker and slot machines that take excitement to the next level. With complimentary gaming lessons from our expert staff, you’ll be playing like a pro in no time.

TABLE GAMES* Try your hand at all your favorite table games and see if you have what it takes to take home the jackpot! Princess® offers a variety of table games including cards, dice, roulette, blackjack and more! Play Texas Hold ‘Em poker, Caribbean Stud Poker and Threecard Poker.

YO U R

SLOTS Feel the adrenaline when you try our newest slot machines. Play timeless classics like traditional slots or progressive jackpots. Our novelty machines enable you to feel the excitement of slots in an entirely new way, and on participating ships, tap into the mindset of a pro with slot tournaments.

BINGO Pair the thrill of sailing to the world’s best sights with our lively bingo games on board — and on Medallion Class ships, play on a tablet or mobile device with OceanCasino.™ Choose from a variety of cards at various prices, pick your numbers and feel the rush as you get ready to exclaim, “Bingo!”

*Table games vary by ship.

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MH 7SEAS FULL PAGE 2019.pdf 1 3/15/2019 1:17:50 PM

CMY

® KETCHIKAN - MONARCH JEWELS JUNEAU - EFFY JEWELERS SKAGWAY - MONARCH JEWELS

www.markhenrycorp.com

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PRINCESS SOUVENIRS ®

At Sea

There’s always something new happening on Princess. Be a part of something special when you set sail and experience the essence of Alaska right on board your ship.

Get to know our N E W E S T P A L. Have you met McKinley? We call him “Mac” for short, and he’s our newest (and coolest) friend from Alaska. As you might expect, this adventurous moose loves to explore and he’s hiked all throughout his home of Denali National Park. But even six million acres of wilderness isn’t enough to contain this hardy fellow. When he met Stanley on a Princess Alaska cruisetour, he asked if he could tag along. Now Mac and Stanley are best friends for life, sailing the world together and bringing joy to every guest they meet on board.

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C E L E B R A T E 5 0 Y E A R S in Alaska with us! Our Alaska story began on June 3, 1969, when Princess Italia sailed to the Great Land on a 14-day roundtrip voyage. Fifty years later, we are honored to be the number-one cruise line in Alaska. Once you’ve experienced its jewels with us, from Glacier Bay National Park and Hubbard Glacier to the wilds of Denali National Park, a part of your spirit will always belong to Alaska. Bring home more than memories with special souvenirs to commemorate this important anniversary. We have joined with Alaskan artist Crystal Worl — a Tlingit and Athabascan from the Raven ‘House of Haines’ — to create an exclusive line of accessories. Layer up with an artfully designed hoodie or fleece, and bring home a keepsake journal or tote bag — each item is adorned with Worl’s original works that explore the connections between Alaskan Natives, wildlife and the land that surrounds them.

CRYSTAL WORL

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Somewhere NEXT S TO P:

Once you’ve been bitten by the travel bug, there should be only one more step to your next vacation: figuring out where to go next. Find out what kind of traveler you really are and we’ll match you up with your next great escape.

ADVENTUROUS EXPLORER

FAMILY FUN SEEKER

You’re obsessed with learning about other cultures and trying new cuisine. You tend to stumble into new discoveries wherever you go, but traveling overseas has a special place in your heart.

You understand that travel is the great connector, and by sharing new experiences and adventures you’ll become closer with your family than ever. – If you’re searching for peak relaxation or crave high-energy action, these islands are all about creating quality time and memories of a lifetime. CARIBBEAN

MEDITERRANEAN – From Italian cities steeped in romance to old fishing villages scattered around Greek islands, there’s always something wonderful to uncover on these blissful voyages.

– Follow in paths of explorers as you glide through Norwegian fjords or hear stories of the past echoing through the British Isles.

NORTHERN EUROPE

– Whether you’re sailing between Southeast Asia’s islands of paradise or stepping into temples and tea houses throughout Japan, the treasures of Asia fill you with a sense of magic. ASIA

CALIFORNIA COAST – Create your own American tale as you chase the sun in Los Angeles, stroll the hilly streets of San Francisco and explore the misty landscape of the Pacific Northwest. HAWAII – Let the spirit of aloha fulfill you and your loved ones. Sail to four islands, each one telling a different story through cultural traditions and lush natural beauty.

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Here’s How to Start Planning There’s plenty of time to plan, and you can save while you’re at it. Take advantage of our exclusive Princess Future Cruise Deposit, available on every ship. Put down a low, refundable, booking deposit of just $100 per person, and earn a FREE shipboard credit of up to $300 per stateroom — depending on the length of your next cruise and stateroom category. No need to confirm a specific itinerary and you have two years to book your next cruise. On board, our Future Cruise Consultant can help you plan your next voyage from top to bottom. You’ll also receive a reduced $50 deposit when booking a 3- to 6-night sailing and receive onboard credits.

SOCIAL VOYAGER

DISCERNING RECHARGER

Surrounding yourself with like-minded travelers, enjoying the perks of shipboard travel and exploring amazing places. For you, this is what travel is all about.

It’s essential to take a break from the everyday, and a Princess cruise is the perfect way to relax, rejuvenate and refresh your view of the world.

PANAMA CANAL

– Stand on deck with other adventurers as you transit the canal. Spot wildlife and savor authentic cuisine in Central America on either side of this engineering marvel.

– The air is pure and crisp. The scenery, from gleaming glaciers to rich taiga forests, is spectacular. Sail through Alaska and become closer to nature than ever before.

– Grab your camera as you sail the Atlantic where graceful mansions and historic lighthouses dot the landscape filled with rocky coastlines and abundant foliage.

– Soft sands, a dose of sunshine and fresh seafood is just what the doctor ordered. Cruise your way through the Caribbean to experience something truly special.

CANADA & NEW ENGLAND

ALASKA

CARIBBEAN

– Venture toward distant shores as you cruise around Cape Horn and join lively excursions from vibrant Buenos Aires and Santiago to the incredible terrain of Tierra del Fuego.

SOUTH AMERICA

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ESSENTIAL ITEMS on Your Packing List The beauty of Princess Cruises is that you only have to unpack once as you sail to multiple shores. Lighten your luggage (and make space for more souvenirs!) with these versatile items.

3 DIAMOND STUDS

Why carry an entire jewelry box when a simple, classic piece will do? This subtle sparkle upgrades your entire wardrobe. Effy Diamond Cluster Stud Earrings

1 AU S T R A L I A N G O L D S U N S C R E E N

In any climate, it’s important to protect your skin with at least SPF 15 sunscreen. Use one ounce 15 minutes before you head out and reapply every two hours. Australian Gold SPF 50 Lotion Sunscreen

2 SCARF

Even if you think you’re someone who can’t pull off a scarf, trust us: on a ship, it completes every look. Draped, looped or knotted, a scarf adds that extra touch of class from ship to shore. All Season Scarf Cover Up

4 WA L K I N G S H O E S

Thankfully, comfortable walking shoes have come a long way in fashion. You can stay blissfully blister-free on your active excursions while still looking chic. Skechers You Slip-On Sneakers

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5 T H E N AU T I C A L D R E S S

Little or long, flared or form-fitting. If you don’t already have a favorite in your closet, we’ve got you covered at The Shops of Princess. Midnight Blue, Short-Sleeve V-neck Dot Wrap Front

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7 W R I S T WAT C H

Whether your style is classic or high-tech, a watch will keep you on schedule for your next excursion, your return to the ship and your next dinner reservation. Citizen Eco Drive Two-Tone Watch

6 WINDBREAKER

Layers are the key to comfortable travel. Keep it casual when you’re hanging out on deck or settling by the pool to watch Movies Under the Stars. Princess® Leopard Trim Jacket

U V- P R O T E C T I N G

SUNGLASSES

From poolside to seaside, you’ll spend plenty of time breathing in fresh air on this vacation. Protect your eyes and look glamorous while you’re at it.

8 CROSS-BODY BAG

Security and style go together when you go hands-free. A simple cross-body bag keeps your items safely tucked away whether you’re strolling city streets or hiking mountains.

RAY BAN CLASSIC AVIATOR SUNGLASSES

10 N O - I R O N T O P S

Chico’s collections are perfectly packable with crisp cotton tunics and no-iron linen tops designed just for travel. Chico’s top – Nautical Denim Popover

If you’re short an item or left something behind, we’ve got you covered at The Shops of Princess. With tax- and duty-free items, you’ll find precisely what you need — and a whole lot more.

Princess® Zippered Cross-Body Bag princess cruises

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VOLODYMYR ROMANOVSKYY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Spruce root weaving has produced arts, crafts and necessary

root c the

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wares for generations.

BY JA N E T G ROE N E

cause princess cruises

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are so strong they were used to weave large, backpack baskets to carry a heavy load in gathering season, yet store flat

how to make natural blue dye from

MAGINE A TIME IN THE

huckleberries. The name for tight,

dark mists of ancient history,

waterproof weaves translates to “close

when a hunter tripped over a

together work.” When another strand is

root, perhaps cursed briefly

added to make a more open weave, the

while nursing a swollen

words mean “rough like a frog’s back.”

ankle, then smiled cunningly

Split and twisted, spruce root makes

as inspiration bloomed.

cordage. Sharpened, it makes a fishing

The hunter noted that the

spear. In early times, it could be worked

offending root was incredibly strong

with only the most primitive tools: a

and light for its small size. It was close

mussel shell knife for splitting the root

at hand, lurking just under the surface

and an awl (a pointed tool used for

cover of moss and needles. It would be

piercing) that could be fashioned from

easy to find, harvest and perhaps put to

goat horn, deer antler or bear claw.

good use. Could it be used to bind, weave, knot, secure? And so, millennia ago, a new role was

When Sealaska Heritage Institute identified spruce root weaving as one of the most endangered traditional skills of native Tlingit and Haida cultures, it

discovered for the roots of coniferous

began an exciting revival initiative. Based

trees such as spruce and fir. They would

in Juneau, the institute now offers spruce

be gathered and put to work.

root field trips, weaver mentor programs,

Today spruce root weaving in Alaska is an art form, as useful a tool as it was to the ancients, but also incredibly beautiful. In

workshops and contests to encourage emerging artists. Today’s artisans learn their craft from its

its most primitive form, the root was used

basics, starting with knowing where and

as a lashing for tent poles, smokehouses,

how to harvest and prepare the root itself.

canoes and snowshoes. As early Alaskans

Long hours are spent on muddy knees

learned more about harvesting, stripping

as students push aside the moist moss in

and utilizing this renewable resource, its

spruce forests and trace the wiry lengths

talents and versatility were praised and

of surface roots, which are cut and coiled

passed from mother to daughter.

to take home. A lucky hunter may find a

It was found that the small, smooth roots could be woven so tightly they

The craft has its own language, techniques and secrets, such as

root that goes on for as long as 20 feet. In the field it’s important not to

create waterproof vessels, baskets and

confuse spruce roots with those of

rain hats. Better still, the steely strands

cottonwood, birch or willow. They’re

JOHN MITCHELL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; BRIAN STEVENSON/GETTY IMAGES

Spruce root-woven hat

the rest of the year.

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It was found that the small, smooth roots could be woven so tightly they create waterproof vessels, baskets and rain hats.

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Spruce roots are often tangled together in mixed forests, so spruce root seekers are taught to go by taste. Then, when a good spot is found, it may be kept secret. often tangled together in mixed forests, so spruce root seekers are taught to go by taste. Then, when a good spot is found, it may be kept secret. The best spruce root hunting grounds, some say, can be reached only by boat. In summer, when sap is still in roots and makes them sweet and pliable, the roots are stripped of a tough coating. They are then painstakingly split to make same-size strands. Even this simple step must be learned and perfected. If rushed, the splitting process goes awry and strands become uneven. The goal is to make strands as smooth and consistent as machine-made wire or string. Dried for future use, they’re then soaked before they’re pliable enough for the artist’s nimble fingers. Throughout history, humankind has woven almost any available botanical materials, often in combinations that together provide strength, durability and a decorative element. Cedar bark was used to stiffen headbands in the waterproof spruce root hats worn by Alaskan fishermen. In basket makers wrap dyed grasses around strands of spruce root to create a decorative pattern or tribal symbol. The weaving technique for spruce roots is called twining, which is also found in Chilkat blankets made from mountain goat wool. Twining is done with the fingers rather than a loom and shuttle. While Chilkat blankets were historically a household project for both men and women, spruce root weaving 36

DAVID L. MOORE - AK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

a technique known as “false embroidery,”

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guaranteed authentic NATURAL GOLD JEWELRY PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA SINCE 1965

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SPRUCE ROOT BASKETS … FOR COOKING? History books tell us that one use for waterproof spruce root baskets was “cooking.” But how? Of course baskets burn when placed over a fire. Yet some

they sit at a table. Their grandmothers sat on the floor, knees drawn up to the shoulders, using their teeth to hold strands. Much of what we know about this miracle fiber is thanks to its timeless durability. Scientists at the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology in Burnaby, British Columbia, have a 10,000-yearsold piece of braided spruce root cordage. Found in a waterlogged Haida burial site, it was preserved in a sodden state. It’s now known that humans used this natural resource throughout the ages in many ingenious ways such as making rope to spin a bow drill to start a fire. Humans being humans, spruce root weaving evolved from a utilitarian task to a rewarding pastime and a triumph of the creative mind. Waterproof hats for fishermen were decorated with tribal motifs and shapes to indicate social status. Spruce root headdresses for shamans were a high distinctive cone, while lesser ranks wore flatter hats. An honored shaman might have been wrapped in a spruce root winding sheet for burial. By the 1890s, traders began to see the artistic value of these goods and urged women to make them for sale. Today’s spruce root baskets may have a price tag, but the story behind them is priceless. n 38

baskets found by archaeologists have burn marks on the inside. Today’s elders know the secret. Before Europeans brought iron pots to Alaska, spruce root baskets were filled with water. Then rocks were heated in the campfire and dropped into the water, heating it. Throughout the day these rocks were replaced with new, campfireheated rocks to keep water at a simmer until the food was cooked.

AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; ARTOKOLORO QUINT LOX LIMITED/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

has always been women’s work. Today

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o y a l

i g n a t u R e

u s s a l i t e

o l l e C t i o n

AVAIL ABLE AT

JUNEAU

KETCHIKAN

SK AGWAY

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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

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PRINCESS CRUISES

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PRINCESS CRUISES

With birch syrup, there’s a new flavor to savor.

more than

maple O

n a hike through

By Jen Dennis

Alaska’s magnificent boreal

forests, the beauty of birch trees always stands out. During the summer, their teardrop-shaped leaves form a vibrant green canopy. And for a few fleeting weeks in the autumn, those leaves burst into a vibrant sunset yellow hue, stealing the fall foliage show. But even stripped of those leaves in the middle of the winter, birch is undeniably lovely; its trunk covered in a chalky, whitish bark which curls and peels artfully, creating a striking contrast to the deeper hues of evergreens, like the black spruce, that often dominate these northern forests. princess cruises

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UNIVERSITY OF ALASKA FAIRBANKS PHOTO BY TODD PARIS; THOM MACE/COURTESY ALASKA WILD HARVEST

But for a small group of Alaskan foodies, however, the most exciting thing about birch trees isn’t their oh-so-pretty exteriors. Instead, it’s what they have on the inside — a rich, flavorful sap (aka, birch water) that rises in early spring and is used to create birch syrup — that makes Alaska’s birch trees truly special. And once you’ve tried it, you just might agree.

Flavor Grows in Trees Like its culinary cousin maple syrup, birch syrup is an impressively malleable ingredient. But as chefs and birch enthusiasts will tell you, these two tree syrups are not the same. Birch syrup has a very different character than maple. It’s less sweet, with a zesty, mineral tang that’s often described as earthy, complex and unique. 44

Above left: Installing buckets and taps on the University of Alaska Fairbanks campus. Right: Alaska Wild Harvest’s birch syrup.

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Why, when over 42 million gallons of maple syrup were harvested in the United States alone in 2017, were fewer than 5,000 gallons of birch syrup produced for sale worldwide? The short answer is that making birch syrup is hard. And a growing number of chefs and home cooks — in Alaska and beyond — are discovering the value of birch syrup in an ever-expanding array of dishes. It’s being added to breakfast dishes (as a topping for pancakes, granola, muffins, oatmeal and even to sweeten coffee); to side dishes like cornbread, baked beans, squash, sweet potatoes and cranberry sauces; to creamy fall soups; and as a glaze for hearty entrees featuring pork, duck and salmon. And, just like maple syrup, birch syrup makes a fabulous topping for, and ingredient in, desserts ranging from ice cream and fruit to pastries. If you’d like to try birch syrup, but you’d prefer to spend a little less time in the kitchen, there are several Alaskan producers using birch syrup as an ingredient in their products, which you can sample while you’re here — and then take home as a fantastic souvenir.

A few of the options: • Beverages: You may have heard of birch beer — a soda made with birch flavoring. But a few of the state’s craft beer makers include birch syrup in their brews. The result is batches of beer with hints of birch syrup’s unique, spicy-nutty flavor. princess cruises

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For a small group of Alaskan foodies, the most exciting thing about birch trees isn’t their oh-so-pretty exteriors. Instead, it’s what they have on the inside — a rich, flavorful sap used to create birch syrup. • Breakfast syrups: Birch breakfast syrups are sweet and light in color, derived from birch water drawn early in the annual spring run. This version can be used just like your classic maple syrup for a twist on your brunch favorites. • Candies: Birch syrup candies pair the sweetness of the caramel with the rich depth of birch syrup. The caramel makes a rich and creamy counterpoint to the bright mineral flavors of birch, for a treat with sweetness and just the slightest hint of spice. • Condiments: Sweet ingredients, like honey, are blended with birch syrup to create a great flavoring with nutty

Hearing about its rich flavor profile,

the fact that the window for harvesting birch water is narrow — just a few weeks

undertones. And zestier condiments

and its many delicious uses, you might

in early spring, as Alaska’s days begin

like mustard take on a rich depth when

wonder: Why isn’t birch syrup as popular

to lengthen and the sapsuckers begin to

mixed with birch syrup.

and well known as maple? Why, when

return to the forests — and you have a

over 42 million gallons of maple syrup

crop that takes serious dedication.

• Dessert Toppings: Light birch syrup,

were harvested in the United States alone

Making birch syrup requires

selected from the earliest days of the

in 2017, were fewer than 5,000 gallons of

evaporating a surprisingly large volume

harvest, is blended to create a tangy

birch syrup produced for sale worldwide?

of birch water, as well. As an example, it

sweet dessert topping. • Glazes and Marinades: Some of

The short answer is that making birch

takes 40 gallons of maple sap to create

syrup is hard. And while many Alaskans

a gallon of maple syrup, but over 100

will make the effort to create batches for

gallons of birch water are required to

Alaska’s top restaurants offer entrees

their own use, only a few businesses exist

produce a single gallon of birch syrup.

of meat glazed with birch syrup. It’s a

to harvest and market it.

And those hundreds of gallons must

natural pair to hearty meats like duck

A Rare Experience

Trees are tapped by hand, often when

be harvested from multiple trees, as, to

and pork — and, in expert hands, just

snow is still on the ground. And birch

ensure a sustainable harvest and the

the right salmon filet. You can bring

water, from which the syrup is created,

health of the birch trees, only 10 to 15

the glaze, marinade or barbecue sauce

can be tapped only from mature trees,

percent of an individual tree’s sap can be

home and grill with it yourself.

which take decades to grow. Add to that

tapped in a single year.

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TREND WATCH: SAP SIPPERS In the summer of 2017, birch water landed on the trend map as an upand-coming beverage for healthy living. Articles in newspapers and magazines began appearing, arguing that the beverage, which is imported from Finland, is a healthy drink along the lines of coconut water. Birch sap, which is lower in sugar than fruit juices, also contains amino acids, vitamin C, potassium, calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, manganese and zinc. While the jury is still out on the actual health benefits of the beverage; it’s been Birch syrup caramels

used as a health tonic in places like Finland for hundreds of years. It remains to be seen if birch sap will sweep the nation replacing

Once you have the birch water,

soda in our refrigerators, but

transforming it from sap to syrup is

this new beverage opens up the

much more delicate for birch than

possibility that even more people

maple, because, due to its sugar content,

will learn to love Alaska’s birch

it must be watched very carefully to

trees as much as Alaskans do.

ensure that it doesn’t burn as it is being reduced. All this effort and care mean CORY NEWBERRY/ONE TREE ALASKA; TAPPED

that birch syrup simply isn’t massproduced. Instead, a few local producers harvest and make these artisanal birch syrup products. The upside of this select number of manufacturers means that birch syrup, and the products and restaurant dishes made with it, are labors of love, made with artisanal care. It’s a lot of work, but for few hearty Alaskans, it’s the chance to bring the flavors of the boreal forest to a hungry audience. n

TAPPED organic birch water is available throughout North America and parts of Europe and Asia. princess cruises

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From killer whales to stealthy submarines, there are fascinating secrets just below Alaskaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waterline.

worl

underwater By Jack Feerick

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MAURICIO HANDLER/GETTY IMAGES

magine the scene, here at the top of the world. A ship plows the waters off

the Alaskan Coast. From the vantage point of her deck, the eye turns to the wonders of the land: the stark peaks of the Chugach Mountains bordering the Gulf; brown bears roaming the islands of Prince William Sound; tidewater glaciers towering blue-white, reflected in the rippling surface of the Kenai Fjords. And under the surface? Mystery — and danger. Ocean temperatures here don’t rise much above 50 degrees

rlds

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Fahrenheit even in midsummer. In winter, the water temperature hovers around freezing; it’s an environment seemingly as inimical to life as the surface of the moon. But life, as they say, finds a way. Far below the keel and the whirling propellers, fathoms down in the frigid North Pacific, where it’s sunless and silent, there is constant activity of marine life and human endeavor — most of it unseen. Look a little deeper. princess cruises

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Soul of a Chief It takes a fearless creature to thrive in these icy waters, and there are few creatures as fierce as the killer whale. These massive predators, also known as orcas, can reach lengths of up to 26 feet. They prefer coastal waters to the profound depths of the open ocean, as they must surface periodically to breathe. The orca’s powerful jaws and teeth mark them as kin to dolphins. Their appetites are as undiscriminating as they are ferocious. With no predators but man, killer whales will feast on schooling fish, seals, sea lions, rays and the smaller species of baleen whales. They have even been documented preying on the fearsome

Their stories tell of splendid undersea towns ruled by benevolent orcas in human form.

great white shark. Though their effective range stretches nearly from pole to pole, orcas are particularly associated with the oceans of the North,

fascination — even worship — among indigenous peoples. The Nuučaanńuł people of Vancouver Island regarded them as the reincarnated souls of great chiefs. The Haida, native to the Alaskan panhandle and Haida Gwaii (formerly Queen Charlotte Islands), held that killer whales were shape-shifters. Their stories tell of splendid undersea towns ruled by benevolent orcas in human form; the souls of drowned men were said to dwell among them. Humanity’s relationship with the killer whale has not always been so benign. Orcas were not generally hunted for oil during the age of whaling, but were often harpooned or shot nonetheless. Whalers considered them a nuisance, as they gathered around 50

DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. OPPOSITE PAGE: PRINCESS CRUISES

where they’ve been a subject of

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DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. OPPOSITE PAGE: PRINCESS CRUISES

Opposite page: Orca. This page: Alaska King Crab

to scavenge from floating carcasses. In recent years, pods or “gangs” of up

Feast of Great Price Sustainable fishing is also an issue for

microscopic creatures. Adult king crabs feed in deep waters, along the muddy

to 40 killer whales have been reported

the Alaskan king crab. This Bering Sea

bottom some 650 feet down. Fishing

stalking commercial fishing vessels in

native may be a familiar guest at your

vessels sink heavy steel traps (called

the Bering Sea — stripping catches of

supper table. Its massive legs — which,

“pots”) to the sea floor, marking their

cod and halibut from their lines, leaving

when fully extended, give the creature

location with buoys on the surface,

behind only the heads and the hooks.

an overall width of about 6 feet — are

then return a day or two later to haul

The whales may harass a boat for hours,

a prized delicacy, their meat juicy and

the pots to the surface with hydraulic

even chasing it at high speed when

sweet. Their numbers have steadily

winches. The crabs are brought in alive,

the captain tries to make a getaway.

dropped since the crab-fishing heyday

and processed in port. Though king

Overfishing of food stocks has brought

of the late 1970s, but king crabs still

crabs are hardy enough to withstand

orcas to this — and these intelligent,

persist in international waters and in

the crushing pressure of the ocean

sociable animals are also at great risk

Russian territory around the Kamchatka

floor, the catch must be transported

from the build-up of toxins like PCBs

peninsula. The fishing grounds for the

with great care; crabs sometimes turn

in their fat stores, bringing on slow

red king crab — the most commercially

cannibal in captivity, and any that

poisoning as the blubber is metabolized.

prized of the Alaskan species — extend

die in the holding tanks can release

Organizations like the Orca Conservancy

from Norton Sound, at the mouth of the

toxins that may spoil the entire catch.

(orcaconservancy.org) promote

Yukon River, to the islands of the Kodiak

conservation of Pacific Northwest killer

Archipelago south of Anchorage.

notoriously hazardous; a long-running

As babies, king crabs float with

television series depicting the fortunes

whales through education, sustainable fishing and habitat protection.

plankton, feeding on diatoms and other

Crabbing in these waters is

of several real-life fishing vessels is princess cruises

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In its worst years, the Alaskan crabbing

Strange are the ways of nature; but

its home port in Washington state, the Navy elected to fly replacements into

industry experienced an average one

stranger things yet lurk in the Pacific’s

Unalaska. (The crew exchange itself

fatality each week. The season runs from

hidden depths. A few years back, a local

was accomplished with the loan of a

October to January, and crews must

sensation arose when residents of Dutch

local tugboat.) But not all the Navy’s

operate heavy equipment for long hours,

Harbor — a borough of Unalaska, the

activities in these cold seas are quite

sometimes around the clock, in the teeth

major population center of the Aleutian

so workaday. In the deeps of the Behm

of the Arctic winter; fatigue and weather

Islands — witnessed the unheralded

Canal, near Ketchikan, whisper-quiet

conditions leave deckhands vulnerable

surfacing of a U.S. Navy submarine.

submarines deploy high-tech equipment

to hypothermia, crippling injury and

Glossy black with lines like a knife in

to study the nature of silence itself.

death by drowning.

the water, the USS Seawolf breached,

The mission of the Southeast

incongruously enough, within sight of

Alaska Acoustic Measurement Facility

in recent decades to mitigate the

the town’s landfill. The nuclear-powered

(SEAFAC) is to study and analyze the

danger, moving from the traditional

vessel had been on a long-term mission in

“acoustic signatures” of submarine

competitive “derby” setup to a

the far North, under the polar ice, before

engines. The Navy chose to site SEAFAC

more restrictive individual quota

its unexpected diversion to the Aleutians.

in the Behm Canal because its waters

As it transpired, the Seawolf’s mission

are some of the quietest in the Pacific.

The industry has instituted reforms

system — and forcing many smaller

Run Silent, Run Deep

operators out of business in the

in Dutch Harbor was mundane; two of the

process — yet crab fishing remains an

crew had been placed on compassionate

miles in water, and a welter of sonic

exceptionally perilous occupation.

leave, and rather than recall the sub to

activity — much of it at frequencies

Sound waves can propagate for many

PRINCESS CRUISES. OPPOSITE PAGE: US NAVY PHOTO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

appropriately called Deadliest Catch.

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Opposite page: Tracey’s King Crab Shack, Juneau. This page: U.S. Navy sailors removing ice from the hull of USS Seawolf

inaudible to the human ear — occurs even in the deep ocean: songs of whales, pings of sonar and fish finders, rumbling of motors. The canal’s location and construction cut it off from most ambient undersea noise. Scientists at SEAFAC measure the acoustic output both of submarines in motion, with engines running, and stationary subs with only life-support functions operating. For these “static” tests, the submarines do not even descend under their own power, but are lowered into the sea by enormous suspension barges. The vehicles hang motionless, cradled on cables strung between two barges, while sophisticated testing arrays collect data on the auditory signature of individual ship systems. Each pump, each cooling fan, each valve sings its own tune; and the researchers of SEAFAC mean to catalogue each one. The goals of SEAFAC’s research, of course, are not only to develop better methods to identify vessels from afar, but to find methods for silencing American vessels to avoid precisely this type of identification; to design super-stealthy submarines that can pass undetected even by sophisticated listening devices that might cruise deep beneath the shipping lanes on top-secret missions with no one in the sunlit world any the wiser. Think on that, as you gaze out from the deck at the placid surface, and wonder what goes on underneath. n

Each pump, each cooling fan, each valve sings its own tune; and the researchers of SEAFAC mean to catalogue each one. princess cruises

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AVA I L A B L E O N B OA R D J U N E A U I K E T C H I K A N I S K A G W AY

E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

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alaskaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

n a t u re t able Southeast Alaska is a resource unto itself for much of the cuisine you and generations of locals enjoy here. By Erin Kirkland

Newcomers to Alaska are almost always enamored by the sheer volume of wilderness around them. From every vantage point (but especially in Southeast Alaska), forests, waterways and glaciers seem to simply go on forever. For cruise visitors sailing the famous Inside Passage, the constant view of wild Alaska means copious time to peer through binoculars for whales, eagles and other flora and fauna found in the Last Frontier.

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PRINCESS CRUISES

princess cruises

Â®

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ative Alaska tribes like the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian

SUPERSTOCK; PRINCESS CRUISES

have thrived in Southeast

Food sustains and strengthens people. Alaska’s natural resources, along with its people, are a powerful reminder that food can indeed connect us all within the tapestry of forest — or farm — to table.

Alaska for centuries, living off the bounty found within shrouded evergreen forests and upon the region’s rocky shorelines. From mushrooms to mussels, fiddlehead ferns to fresh fish, Alaska’s natural table is always set, even more so in history when gold-seekers and missionaries made their way north in the 1800s. Harvesting, preserving and consuming such foods was part of everyday life, and early settlers were able to glean much in the way of local knowledge. Devil’s club tea, for example, was excellent for upset stomachs, and beach greens offered a much-needed vitamin boost during a long, cold winter when not much else grew fresh for the taking. A healthy lifestyle wasn’t just a conscious choice; it was the only choice. Fast-forward a hundred years, and 20th-century Alaska residents lived a nutritionally different lifestyle with the advent of shipping services and popular princess cruises

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food culture. Kids grew up eating fruit

of food-conscious consumers and

Salmonberries are some of the first to ripen

and vegetables transported via barge

entrepreneurs have begun reintroducing

on the hillsides of Southeast Alaska, later

from Seattle, and store shelves across

both residents and visitors to the

followed by strawberries, cloudberries

the state were stocked with preservative-

abundance of locally grown or sourced

and blueberries, but in different places.

laden breads, chips and other filling

products. From foraging-themed hikes

On the beach, each tidal swing brings

foods that ironically cost less and fed

to culinary classes designed to promote

to mind the old Native Alaskan adage:

more people. As nearly every section of

Alaska’s resources, visitors can be

“When the tide is out, the table is set.”

Southeast Alaska is reachable only by

assured of a worthwhile experience to

Kelp, seaweed, clams, mussels, greens —

plane or boat, food consciousness shifted

tantalize taste buds and inspire further

this is “mariculture” at its freshest, and

from “grow it ourselves” to “waiting for

exploration at home.

diners the world over are taking notice

the next shipment.” Like many American

Kelly “Midgi” Moore, a Juneau food

of Alaska’s coastal communities and the

families, foods sourced from “Outside”

writer, says the term “locally sourced” has

(anywhere not Alaska) became the norm.

reached an entirely new level in Alaska’s

But now, with mainstream concepts like

capital city. “Juneau chefs are foraging

the way toward this new culinary

food security, as well as mantras touting

local ingredients from seafood to

independence, boasting a thriving

“grow food, not lawns” making a rise in

mushrooms to beach asparagus, and

year-round population that has begun

the Lower 48 states, Alaskans too have

incorporating the true flavors of Alaska

to notice this game-upping foodie

begun to shift their thinking about

into each dish,” Moore says.

progression. An active city for both

where, how and when their food makes it to the dinner table. Times have changed as a new generation

Alaska’s food scene is also about

ingredients they share. Alaska’s capital, Juneau, has led

residents and seasonal visitors, Juneau

becoming more sensitive to seasons and

regularly pops up in searches for

learning when to pick, where and why.

“seafood,” “glaciers” and “adventure”;

Alaskan clam bake with mussels, crab, shrimp and corn

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PRINCESS CRUISES; LIONEL UDDIPA

luckily, Juneau is one of the few Alaska Lionel Uddipa, head chef at SALT in Juneau, Alaska

destinations where one can spend the morning watching for humpback whales, or hiking near a glacier, then return to town for a sumptuous meal of salmon, crab and those aforementioned berries. Juneau’s food producers — the men and women who make a life’s work out of growing and harvesting seasonal favorites — are adamant about sharing their bounty with guests. One may visit a local store in Juneau during the summer months and find items to sample on the spot or take home for later: fresh beach asparagus, kelp salsa, smoked salmon, dried seaweed, and devil’s club tea. If Native Alaska traditions are of interest, several smaller ports of call offer a more in-depth opportunity to follow skills like fish filleting, drying and smoking, with recipes to savor later at home.

Lionel Uddipa, a third-generation

On the beach, each tidal swing brings to mind the old Native Alaskan adage: “When the tide is out, the table is set.”

of salmon, halibut or cod. Some people

master chef of Southeast Alaska’s culinary

simply want to taste the ocean’s bounty

uniqueness, says the concept of locally

without venturing out on the water, and

sourced foods is important to the area’s

Ketchikan’s simple yet hearty fare delivers;

future and past. “Lots of times I’ll just

chowders, grilled fish and crab are sure

walk into the woods and see what I find,”

winners all around.

says Uddipa, who often brings his young

Nearby Native Alaskan village sites

daughter, Juniper, along for the experience.

provide insight into the deep connections

“I’ve especially become fond of Southeast

between the land, its resources and family

Alaska’s mushrooms; there’s so many

tradition. Tribal hierarchy is based upon

different types that grow here. Sometimes,

clans, with Alaska wildlife revered in the

especially during berry season, I feel like

forms of Orca, Raven and other descendent

I’ve hit the lottery.”

groups, all matriarchal in nature. Alaska

Farther south, the Alexander

Native traditions rely upon dancing and

Archipelago of islands is home to the

drumming to share their joys of harvest

city of Ketchikan, where seafood is king.

time, and oral tradition stories are handed

Known as the “Salmon Capital of the

down from generation to generation as

World,” Ketchikan features an abundance

these hunting, gathering and trading

of opportunities to experience foods made

rituals are passed to today’s youth.

famous by expert fishermen. Crabbing

Food sustains and strengthens people.

vessels pull in hefty pots full of king and

Alaska’s natural resources, along with

snow crab from the cold Alaska water, and

its people, are a powerful reminder that

those wanting to drop a line in the water

food can indeed connect us all within the

themselves can easily do so in search

tapestry of forest — or farm — to table. n

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street s

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NAUM CHAYER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Mystery, conundrums and fascinating stories lurk around every corner of Juneau.

smarts By Janet Groene

princess cruises

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at its most gorgeous,

Juneau community honored its heroes by naming places after them, at least for

Alaska’s capital city

a while. In 1880, mining engineer George

famously has no roads

Richard Harris to the area, where they

Pilz sent prospectors Joe Juneau and

leading into or out of it,

struck gold. More miners rushed in, creating

making Juneau one of

Charles Rockwell was sent to restore order.

the more unique centers

a community so rowdy, Lt. Commander That’s why the place was named Rockwell, then Pilzburg, Harrisburgh and Harrisburg.

of American democracy.

After Pilz ended up in San Francisco

Fortunately, the streets

— and Harris fell out of favor — miners

trying to make bail for a fraud charge

within Juneau’s city limits —

voted to name the city after Joe Juneau.

and, more specifically, their

it was named for, is a manmade creation

names — make up for that

from top to bottom. The thoroughfare was

with intrigue and legend.

it became solid ground. Richard G. “Uncle

Willoughby Avenue, like the person

once water, then pilings, then landfill until

ALASKA STATE LIBRARY/C.R. SCOTHORN PHOTO COLLECTION

Below: Willoughby Avenue on pilings in the early 1900s. Opposite: Richard G. Willoughby

Even at its founding, the roistering

OPPOSITE: ALASKA STATE LIBRARY/JAMES SIMPSON MACKINNON PHOTO COLLECTION

urrounded by nature

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ALASKA STATE LIBRARY-HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS (2)

“Uncle Dick” Willoughby found and lost a fortune in gold, built a cabin near what is now the corner of Willoughby and Main, played fiddle for local dances, ran a dance hall in Wrangell and a saloon in Sitka, and beguiled his audiences with yarns, promotions and practical jokes.

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From top: Gastineau Avenue sign; House of Wickersham; James Wickersham at age 23. Opposite page: Treadwell Gold Mine Historic Park; an under-sea shaft at Treadwell Gold Mine in the early 1900s.

Dick” Willoughby (1832-1902) was a Southerner who left his wife and baby son before the Civil War to go gold mining. Cutting a wide swath across the frontier, he found and lost a fortune in gold, built a cabin near what is now the corner of Willoughby and Main, played fiddle for local dances, ran a dance hall in Wrangell and a saloon in Sitka,

photographs he made and sold to an

awestruck public. Today the pictures

Hill, Knob Hill, Gastineau Heights,

could easily be created on Photoshop,

Gold Hill and Observation Heights

but in the 1890s they were cutting-edge

to no avail. Basically, Chicken Ridge

technology. By manipulating early

is high ground that runs along

has been listed on the National

photographic plates and chemicals,

Seventh Street west to Gold Street

Willoughby showed a mysterious city

or, some say, to Gold Belt Avenue.

Juneau, it’s a short but steep hike to

In fairness, it should be noted

Chicken Ridge, where the House of

and beguiled his audiences with yarns, promotions and practical jokes. Almost forgotten now is his most audacious venture: the Silent City

mirage emerging out of a thick mist.

he unlovely name Chicken Ridge lives on despite occasional efforts to call it

something more lofty. They tried Nob

The Chicken Ridge Historic District

Willoughby’s photos sold briskly while

that in the old days the ridge was a

Wickersham on Seventh Avenue was

the debate about their authenticity

popular perch for ptarmigan, a bird

the first Victorian mansion built here.

raged on so ferociously, the story ran in

in the grouse family that made a

Named for politician and judge James

a 1912 issue of Popular Science. Today

good “chicken” dinner on pioneers’

Wickersham (1857-1939), the home is

the photos and original plates are in the

plates. Today it’s the Alaska state

open to the public. It’s filled with period

archives at the University of Alaska.

bird, still served on Alaska tables.

furnishings and artifacts he collected.

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alk the Treadwell Mine Historic Trail in the footsteps

to the Juneau area, John Treadwell (18421927) bought a lode claim. He started digging in earnest after ore samples he sent to San Francisco for assay testing came back with an encouraging report. To his dismay, he realized he had tunneled so far that he was working a rich vein under property owned by others. Keeping mum about the bonanza, he quietly bought up adjoining claims at bargain prices. In 1889, he sold his stake in the company for $1.5 million and decamped for sunny California, leaving only his name in Alaska. By 1917, Treadwell mines had yielded about $70 million in gold. Treadwell died bankrupt in New York 10 years later. THIS PAGE: TONI MASSOT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; THE PROTECTED ART ARCHIVE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

FROM TOP, OPPOSITE PAGE: RICHARD CUMMINS/GETTY IMAGES; JOHN ELK/GETTY IMAGES; ALASKA STATE LIBRARY/WICKERSHAM STATE HISTORIC SITES PHOTO COLLECTION

of another of the area’s most

famous characters. Early in the gold rush

ne of the most colorful scenes for today’s photographers is Douglas Boat Harbor off

Savikko Road. The road and nearby Savikko Park are named for Robert C. Savikko (1927-1972), a local politician who disappeared and was presumed drowned while on a hunting trip. Beachcombers found his wallet 20 years later, but most victims of the mysterious “Alaska Triangle” leave no trace at all. There may be nothing at all to the legend of the Triangle, formed by Juneau, Barrow and Anchorage. On the other hand, an ancient Tlingit Indian belief is that half-man, half-otter spirits called Kooshdakhaa (or Kushtaka) are shape shifters who claim the bodies of those lost in the Triangle, never to be found again. What’s in a name? Perhaps the answer might appear as you amble down the otherwise blandly named Front Street and pass one of the city’s oldest bars. It’s called the Triangle Club. n princess cruises

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AVA I L A B L E O N B OA R D J U N E A U I K E T C H I K A N I S K A G W AY

E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9

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PRINCESS CRUISES

por ts o f c al l Discover the history, sights and shopping opportunities you will experience as your Princess cruise takes you to these one-of-a-kind destinations.

VOYAGES: Alaska

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PRINCESS CRUISES

princess cruises

Â®

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captivating capital

did you

know?

Juneau is named for

Joseph Juneau, a prospector who discovered gold

PRINCESS CRUISES

juneau

in the area.

With more than 30,000 residents, Juneau is Alaska’s thirdlargest city. Fronting a saltwater channel at the base of two soaring mountains, Juneau is a friendly mix of sophistication and informality.

is 12-mile-long Mendenhall Glacier, a spectacular, bluishwhite river of ice just outside of town with an excellent visitor center and several good hiking trails. The Alaska State Museum spotlights all things Alaskan. Two floors of extensive exhibits showcase state history, Native culture, Russian heritage,

The downtown district is

more. The smaller Juneau-

small but bustles with shops,

Douglas City Museum contains

restaurants and attractions.

gold-mining equipment and

Juneau’s flourishing arts scene

other relics.

includes theatre, opera and

Featuring Western-style

symphony productions, as well

swinging doors, historic photos

as excellent galleries

and floors covered with sawdust,

and bookstores.

the downtown Red Dog Saloon

Although it offers many

serves up a top-notch selection

urban amenities, Juneau

of microbrews. Near the cruise

is perched on the edge

ship dock, Mount Roberts

of wilderness beside the

Tramway swoops visitors up

17 million-acre Tongass

a 2,000-foot mountain for

National Forest.

panoramic views, a nature

The city’s top attraction 72

wildlife, natural history and

TRAVEL JUNEAU

PLACES OF INTEREST

center and hiking trails.

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NATURALLY YOU Discover a whole new garden of styles and make it yours.

495 South Franklin Street, Juneau, AK | 907.523.5683

212 Front Street, Ketchikan, AK

400 Mission Street, Ketchikan, AK | 907.225.1880

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experience

june au

To truly experience Alaska’s capital and its culture, be sure to visit these recommended retailers. CARIBOU CROSSINGS

HOUSE OF RUSSIA

Giving you the heart of Alaska. Locally owned, representing over 60 Alaskan artists. Capture your Alaskan adventure with handmade sculptures, Inuit dolls, dreamcatchers, masks, ornaments and authentic gifts. Be sure to meet the “Caribou Crew” and get quick local tips, discover our artists and find out what it’s like to actually live in Alaska.

Connect with Alaska’s Russian history. Locally owned for over 35 years. Exquisite craftsmanship, creating collector pieces and ideal gifts. Extensive collection of hand-painted matryoshka dolls representing family and connection in all sizes and colors. Handblown, colorful vases. Handcarved Santas. Russian lacquer boxes, Baltic amber and Christmas ornaments.

ALASKA FUR GALLERY

ALASKA SHIRT COMPANY

For over 70 years, the internationally renowned Alaska Fur Gallery of Anchorage has met the fashion needs of discerning women. Operating with outstanding personal service, family-owned Alaska Fur Gallery features a complete collection of furs, shearlings, specialty outerwear and men’s and women’s leathers, along with other accessories. Alaska Fur Gallery is the best place to purchase furs and have them expertly serviced, repaired, restyled, conditioned and appraised by renowned master furriers. We ship worldwide!

Welcome to Juneau — home of stunning glaciers,s mountains and wildlife! At Alaska Shirt Company, we can’t bottle the air or gift wrap a glacier, but we sure have lots of fun and stylish ways to keep “Alaskinspired” smiles on the millions of faces who visit us every year. We put ourselves right across the street from the Cruise and Tram Terminals to keep things easy. Come with a list and leave with a smile — and a signature big, red Alaska Shirt Company bag! You’ll still have plenty of time to enjoy all that natural beauty you came for.

ALPACA INTERNATIONAL “From The High Andes of South America to the Mountains of Alaska” Alpaca International has had an amazing journey to introduce alpaca, the sacred fiber of the ancient Peruvians, to the world as a unique and special fashion statement available to all. Browse the collection of scarves, shawls, capes, ponchos, hats, gloves, luxurious coats and many other timeless and elegant pieces. Alpaca International’s philosophy is 100% natural fibers, no synthetic blends and professional customer service.

We live right here in Juneau, where salmon are plentiful and very, very tasty. We want to share with you the amazing flavors of Wild Alaska Smoked Salmon. Our salmon has been freshly harvested, then painstakingly smoked using Alaskan alder. After smoking, our salmon is simply steamed in a retort-style package. This allows it to remain fresh at room temperature for around 18 months while still maintaining those renowned flavor profiles. Crumble it over pasta or a salad, or make your own homemade salmon spread by folding it into cream cheese with dill and lemon — the possibilities are endless! 74

PRINCESS CRUISES

SALMON SHOPPE

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Alpaca International presents a select collection of masterfully crafted garments and accessories, made of 100% luxurious Alpaca wool. JUNEAU OUTFITTERS FILSON — rugged quality for over 120 years. In 1897, for thousands of fortune hunters, the Great Alaska Gold Rush was on! FILSON opened C.C. FILSON’s Pioneer Alaska Clothing and Blanket Manufacturers to outfit stampeders. It was for these rugged conditions that FILSON designed his goods, a brand synonymous with reliability, satisfaction and honest values. FILSON’s philosophy is the same today: “Make sure it’s the absolute best.” That’s what you’ll find at Juneau Outfitters inside Historic Merchants Wharf.

TRACY’S KING CRAB SHACK Juneau’s premier king crab restaurant. Locally owned and operated by Tracy, a true Alaskan woman. Freshly caught king crab, prepared in-house and cooked before your very eyes. Fully stocked gift shop and retail outlet. Restaurant is fully licensed, serving a great selection of wines and Alaskan beers. Family-style dining and seating. Everything from crab legs, claws, crab cakes, bisque, rice bowls, salads and sandwiches.

PRINCESS CRUISES

ALASKA KNIFEWORKS We’re just like you. Occasionally we need a knife to perform a task and when we do, we want the best. Collectors, hikers, campers, hunters, fishermen and all-round knife-geek enthusiasts enjoy our store. Whether you arrive by cruise ship, private boat or plane (because you cannot drive to or from here), please come see us when you visit Juneau. Alaska Knifeworks is located in Merchants Wharf on the beautiful downtown Port of Juneau waterfront, the Gateway to Alaska’s Capital City!

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610 Admiral Way | Juneau, Alaska 99801 Next to the world famous Red Dog Saloon 907.796.3877 SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.ALPACAINTERNATIONAL.NET

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k etchikan

PLACES OF INTEREST

galleries and restaurants. Tongass Historical Museum captures Ketchikan’s early days with historical displays of fishing and logging, as well as Native artifacts. At the Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery & Eagle Center, which raises and releases more than 350,000 salmon annually, observation decks provide magnificent views. In addition, the town also puts on a great lumberjack show, featuring chopping, sawing and climbing events. Long a center for the Tlingit, Tsimshian and Haida tribes, Ketchikan boasts more totem poles than any other place in the world. The Totem Heritage Center features a collection of the oldest poles,

Several downtown streets

some dating back to before

are suspended across trestles

1900. Saxman Native Totem

and pilings. Huge salmon runs

Park, a few miles south of

pass through a downtown

town, showcases an impres-

creek. Dubbed “The Capital of

sive collection of 30 poles.

Liquid Sunshine,” Ketchikan is

You can also watch traditional

drenched by an average of 160

dance performances and carv-

inches of rain every year. Nev-

ers at work. Totem Bight State

ertheless, downtown bustles

Park, 10 miles north of town,

with shops and restaurants.

displays 14 poles in a scenic

Most of the major sights are within easy walking distance

overflows with gift shops, art

rain forest. Ketchikan has a vigorous

did you

know?

On the site of an ancient Native fish camp, Ketchikan began with the establishment of a salmon

of the dock. The centerpiece is

contemporary arts commu-

Creek Street, a historic district

nity. More than 230 local vi-

cannery in the 1880s. During the Gold

lining a curved plank road

sual artists show work in the

Rush, it enjoyed a brief boom supplying

along Ketchikan Creek. Dating

town’s galleries, providing a

goods to prospectors headed

back to Gold Rush days, this

large selection of paintings,

to the Yukon gold fields.

row of colorful houses was a

prints, pottery and other arts.

red-light district of brothels

Numerous shops sell gold

and speakeasies. Today, it

jewelry, gems and apparel.

PRINCESS CRUISES

On Revillagigedo Island, Ketchikan is packed between 3,000-foot-tall Deer Mountain and the Tongass Narrows channel. The town boasts a picturesque harbor filled with fishing boats. Ketchikan derives its name from the Tlingit kitsch-khin. Loosely translated, it means “thundering wings of an eagle.” Natives thought that the settlement’s outline resembled an eagle in full flight.

capital of liquid sunshine

VOYAGES: Alaska

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Â®

AVAILABLE IN SKAGWAY ONLY

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109 Main St. Ketchikan, AK 99901 907.247.4933 hydefurandshearling.com

APPAREL • BLANKETS • THROWS • RUGS • ACCESSORIES • FOOTWEAR • MADE IN ALASKA

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southeast

alaska’s

rich logging history comes to life

Sit back and watch Alaska’s Frontier lumberjacks battle British Columbia’s premier woodsmen in a no-holds-barred competition for the title “Bull of the Woods.”

etchikan lies on the western edge of the Tongass National Forest, a beautiful 17-millionacre forest born by Teddy Roosevelt’s Presidential Proclamation in 1907. In the heart of

Ketchikan was the Ketchikan Spruce Mill that had been operating since 1903 and flourished in the ever-expanding timber industry. This mill served the needs of 7 canneries that produced 1.5 million cases of salmon packed in wooden crates. In 1974, the Mill closed its doors until 2000 when it was converted into the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. Hundreds of men and women spent their lives in these logging camps supplying timber to this mill. Each year, the Mill would sponsor a 4th of July Timber Carnival that gathered loggers from Southeast Alaska and Canada to crown the “Bull of the Woods.” Loggers would come from all over to compete head-to-head in chopping, sawing, tree climbing, axe throwing and log rolling. At the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, this tradition lives on as our World Champion Athletes compete in a no-holds-barred competition for this title! Experience 60 minutes of action, excitement and laughs that is unique to all of Alaska. Located one block off the cruise ship dock in the heart of downtown covered, cushioned and heated so no matter rain or shine, you will have a rowdy good time! Visit your Shore Excursions Deck to book your ticket! Accessible seating available

PRINCESS CRUISES (2)

Ketchikan! Our grandstands are

VOYAGES: Alaska

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experience

k e t chi ka n Nothing encapsulates Ketchikan quite like these uniquely Alaskan shops and shows.

HYDE FUR AND SHEARLING CO

SALMON ETC.

Third-generation Alaskan-owned-and-operated fur shopping destination. Take home

Salmon Etc. is a locally family-owned-and-

one of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most alluring gifts, treasured for its beauty and ability to provide warmth.

operated business. We specialize in fresh

Fur evokes a myriad of emotions and has a luxurious appeal that transcends time. Stop by

and smoked salmon. We have a gourmet

today to feel and try on one of the most fashion-forward iconic items in the world here in

selection of hand-packed salmon cans and

Ketchikan, Alaska.

fillets. Our salmon jerky and candy is a must-try. Large selection of fresh salmon and halibut. Also make sure to try our omega-3 Sockeye salmon oil. Stop by to hear the catch of the day.

COLORS FINE JEWELERS

ARCTIC SPIRIT GALLERY

Walk in to Colors Fine Jewelers to find a

At Arctic Spirit Gallery, we specialize

beautiful selection of Alaskan-themed artwork.

in Native Art from the Northwest Coast

From moose antler carvings to jade figurines,

and all of Alaska. We travel throughout

along with soapstone and marble pieces, we

Alaska and the Northwest Coast to

Since 1972, Scanlon Gallery has offered

even feature beautiful jewelry with a unique

find and carefully select the art and the

residents and visitors the finest in Alaskan

Alaskan touch. Family owned and operated

artists that we represent, only offering

art from the spirit and character of the

since 1999, Colors Fine Jewelers gives a portion

the highest quality. Each piece is

people who live here. Our professional,

of our profits from marble-stone items to help

uniquely authentic and handcrafted for

knowledgeable and helpful staff will provide

support sea turtle hospitals and rehabilitation

your enjoyment for years to come.

you with information and background on our artists and their work. PRINCESS CRUISES

centers with the Turtleman Foundation.

SCANLON GALLERY

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ORCA COLLECTION

306 Mill St, Ketchikan, AK 907-220-9131 infinityjewelryalaska.com

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sea t tl e

did you

the emerald city

know?

VISIT SEATTLE

Seattle was the first major American city to have a female mayor. Bertha Knight Landes held the office from 1926 to 1928.

Washington’s best-known city features remarkable natural beauty. Mount Rainier, the Cascades and the Olympic Mountains grace the skyline. Water surrounds Seattle, including Puget Sound and the freshwater Lake Washington. Plenty of water comes from the sky as well, with an average annual rainfall of 37 inches. In recent years, Seattle has blossomed into a cosmopolitan center of lively streets, chic shops and impressive venues such as a symphony hall, convention center, baseball park, football stadium and several theaters. 84

PLACES OF INTEREST

The place to begin any Seattle tour is at the Pike Place Market, the city’s heart and soul. The market is a high-energy hodgepodge of salmon-slinging fish vendors, farmers’ tables heaped with fruits and vegetables, and zany street performers. The site of the 1962 World’s Fair, Seattle Center holds many of the city’s prime attractions. It is home to the Space Needle, where you can take an elevator to a 520-foot-high observation deck and enjoy 360-degree views of the region. The downtown Seattle Art Museum, designed by Robert Venturi, presents a notable collection of African and Northwest Indian art, along with modern art from the region. Across the street, glittering Benaroya Hall provides state-of-the-art acoustics for the Seattle Symphony. South of downtown, Pioneer Square is Seattle’s 20-block historic district. Art galleries, bookstores and gift shops are clustered among handsome turn-of-the-century brick buildings and treelined streets. Loaded with bars and music clubs, the area offers the best nightlife in the city.

VOYAGES: Alaska

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s i t ka

natural paradise

On a sheltered bay on the outside coast of Baranof Island, Sitka fronts the Pacific Ocean and boasts a dramatic view of Mount Edgecumbe volcano. Surrounded by forested islands in the sound, Sitka is a pretty seaside town that features a rich Native culture and historic Russian landmarks. It also earns high marks for its cultural events and activities, including daily dance and song performances, a world-class summer chamber music festival and annual arts and education symposia. PLACES OF INTEREST

did you

ALASKA STOCK/KEVIN SMITH

know?

Sitka is the contraction of Shee-atika, a Tlingit phrase meaning “people on the outside of Shee,” now known as Baranof Island.

With most of its attractions near the waterfront, Sitka is easy to explore on foot. The city’s most famous landmark is St. Michael’s Cathedral, instantly recognizable for its onion-shaped dome. Built in the 1840s as the Russian Orthodox cathedral, the wood-framed building was destroyed by fire in 1966 and later rebuilt. The church contains nearly all of the original icons and religious objects that were rescued from the fire. Built in 1843 for Alaska’s first Russian Orthodox bishop, the Russian Bishop’s House is a beautifully restored log building that holds authentic Russian furnishings and wardrobes. More Russian artifacts are on display at the Isabel Miller Museum. The 107-acre Sitka National Historical Park showcases a dramatic collection of Native totem poles as well as demonstrations by Native artisans and informative exhibits at the park’s visitor center. One of the largest collections of Native artifacts is at the Sheldon Jackson Museum. Jackson, a missionary and Alaska’s first general agent of education, collected masks, blankets and other objects from Native cultures throughout Alaska. The world-renowned New Archangel Dancers, a colorfully costumed, all-women troupe, performs Russian folk dances at Harrigan Centennial Hall. At the Tlingit Community House, the Sheet’ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi Dancers offer dance and storytelling performances. princess cruises

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did you

know?

Skagway’s original name, Skagua, means “Home of the North Wind” in Tlingit.

In a valley at the northern end of Lynn Canal, Skagway is a treasure for history buffs. Alaska’s bestpreserved gold rush town, Skagway glitters with restored buildings, boardwalk-lined streets and museums yielding artifacts and relics. In addition, Skagway delights visitors with its dazzling mountain scenery. PLACES OF INTEREST

Most of Skagway’s landmarks are in a seven-block historic district around Broadway Street, the town’s major artery. At the National Park Service Visitor Center, in a restored railroad depot full of historic photos and exhibits, rangers offer lectures and walking tours and present a 30-minute film about the gold rush.

The Trail of ’98 Museum features captivating displays of gold-panning equipment, gambling paraphernalia and other nuggets from the past. The Arctic Brotherhood Hall, one of the most-photographed sights in town, calls attention to its exterior. Originally headquarters of a now-defunct fraternal society, the hall has a front façade constructed of 20,000 driftwood sticks in a basket-weave pattern. The Red Onion Saloon dates back to 1898 and still serves drinks on its original 19-foot-long mahogany bar. The saloon offers tours of its upstairs rooms, once used as a brothel and reportedly haunted. One of Skagway’s bestknown attractions is the long-running Days of ’98 Show, a gag-filled musical that re-creates the town’s roughand-tumble early days when a con man named Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith reigned. Outside of town, the White Pass & Yukon Route train takes visitors on a scenic, three-hour round-trip journey over one of the original gold rush trails.

PRINCESS CRUISES (2)

s k a gway gateway to gold

VOYAGES: Alaska

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S ebody L es Me

T-Shirt

Everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite Alaskan souvenir in adult and kids sizes.

We hope youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re having a wonderful time in our favorite place in the world...Alaska! When you come to Juneau or Skagway, we know your time is limited...but youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve still got people back home to shop for. Where to go? The Alaska Shirt Company really is the answer. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been helping people find the perfect gifts and souvenirs since 1995, and our selection is EPIC! Let our staff of enthusiastic locals help you find the perfect souvenir of this amazing place!

Juneau â&#x20AC;˘ Skagway

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white pass

& yukon route

Built in 1898 to open the Klondike region of Yukon Territory to gold seekers, this narrow gauge railway, originally stretching from Skagway, Alaska, to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, was completed in 1900 — just in time for the Klondike Gold Rush to be over. It took the labor of 35,000 men using only black blasting powder and crude tools to battle the elements and treacherous landscapes to hew out the 110-mile narrow gauge line. The railway hauled freight and passengers for over 80 years before closing down in 1982 after a dramatic fall in world ore prices. But WP&YR persevered and reopened its doors six years later as “The Scenic Railway of the World,” providing rail excursions to tourists from all over the world. In 1994, WP&YR was named an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, joining the likes of the Statue of Liberty and the Panama Canal in this prestigious honor.

VOYAGES: Alaska

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WPYR.COM

Today, guests experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, trestles and tunnels from the comfort of vintage rail cars. Hear a fully narrated tour of the White Pass featuring tales of villainous gunslingers and good-time girls, or would-be gold seekers struggling towards the Yukon, and see with your own eyes the untouched, pristine beauty of the Pacific Coastal Mountains. Trips depart from Skagway, AK, Fraser, BC, Carcross, YT, and Whitehorse, YT, between late April and early October each year. The White Pass & Yukon Route is Alaska’s most popular shore excursion and a favorite on many Alaska/Yukon travelers’ must-see lists.

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SK A AG LA W SK A A Y,

THE SCENIC RAILWAY OF THE WORLD

Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. Experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestles and historic sites from the comfort of vintage parlor cars.

CONVENIENT DOCKSIDE ACCESS See your Journeys Ashoreâ&#x201E;¢ Office to reserve your seat

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experience

sk agwa y When in the

“Gateway to the Klondike,” don’t miss these beloved local shops. ALASKA FUR GALLERY

BROADWAY JEWELRY @ KIRMSE’S

Internationally renowned for

Broadway Jewelry @ Kirmse’s is the place to find that special

meeting the fashion needs of

something. You won’t find another store like it for thousands of

discerning women for over 70

miles. There is absolutely something for everyone, from estate

years, family-owned Alaska Fur

jewelry to one-of-a-kind 18K fine jewelry to a variety of Alaskan

Gallery of Anchorage features

artwork. If anything, just stop by and see the historic building built

an extensive collection of furs,

back in 1898 and take a picture with the original totem poles. The

shearlings, specialty outerwear

original Moose from 1898 is hung in the exact same spot today.

and men’s and women’s leathers, along with other accessories including slippers, hats, gloves,

ALASKA CHRISTMAS STORE

mukluks, porcelain Inuit dolls and many more. On-site alterations

Remember your trip with Alaska-made gifts from the locally owned

are available and knowledgeable

Alaska Christmas Store, located between 4th and 5th streets in

fashion consultants are at your

historic Skagway. You’ll find a tremendous selection of Alaska-made

disposal. We ship worldwide!

ornaments, Santas, snowmen, nativities, dolls, a great selection owned and operated since 1984. Exclusive Alaska-made items and a knowledgeable, friendly staff make shopping at the Alaska Christmas Store a memorable experience.

PRINCESS CRUISES

of Alaska children’s books and many other unique gifts. Family

VOYAGES: Alaska

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ALASKA SHIRT COMPANY Welcome to Skagway — home of historic

WHITE PASS TRAIN SHOPPE

charm and awe-inspiring natural beauty!

White Pass Train Shoppe is the best place in Skagway to find official souvenirs and gifts for the White Pass & Yukon Route. Unique items for the entire family, including apparel, souvenirs, toys, model trains and great Made-in-Alaska products. The Train Shoppe has two locations in Skagway: at the downtown Skagway Depot and our Caboose on the Railroad Dock. The official 2019 White Pass hat can be purchased during your rail excursion!

At Alaska Shirt Company, we can’t box up the historic train tracks or gift wrap the stunning views, but we have over 9,000 square feet of fun and stylish ways to keep “Alaskinspired” smiles on the millions of faces who visit us every year. Come visit us at 1st and Broadway for signature souvenirs like T-shirts, smoked salmon and ulus. Alaska Shirt Company

RED ONION SALOON

helps you get your shopping done so you can get back to strolling Skagway’s

The Red Onion Saloon & Brothel Museum

charming boardwalks — ASAP!

is an authentic Gold Rush Saloon located in the heart of Skagway, Alaska. Established in

PRINCESS CRUISES

1898, it has long been refuge for the wayward

SKAGWAY BREWING COMPANY

miner. Today the spirit continues at the Red

Locally owned and operated, this year-round establishment

Onion Saloon with live music, cold Alaskan

just may be the most sustainable brewery on the planet.

draft beer, hot pizza and nachos, fun souvenirs

With locally sourced halibut and salmon, hand-crafted

and $10 tours of our famous, haunted brothel

ales, and an aeroponics garden on the third floor, you’ll be

museum given by the best storytellers in

drinking a piece of history when you visit this small-town

town. Come see what everyone is talking

brewery with a big green heart. Originally established in

about at the Red Onion Saloon!

1897 to hydrate the thirsty prospectors of the Klondike Gold Rush, we continue to create fresh unfiltered ales and delicious pub fare for today’s local and traveling crowds.

princess cruises

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v a ncouver

cosmopolitan charm

did you

know?

TOURISM VANCOUVER/ BARBERSHOP FILMS

Originally called Granville, this Canadian city was renamed in honor of Captain George Vancouver, an English navigator who explored the area in 1792 while searching for the Northwest Passage.

Vancouver is a charming, cosmopolitan

city in the southwestern corner of British Columbia. In little more than a century, it has grown from a humble railroad town into a vibrant metropolis. Vancouver flanks saltwater inlets and brushes up against the slopes of the snow-covered Coast Mountains. Complementing its scenic surroundings are plentiful parks, gardens, promenades, beaches and trails. PLACES OF INTEREST

Overflowing with things to see and do, Vancouver can keep you busy for weeks. A short stroll from the cruise-ship pier is the historic and revitalized neighborhood, Gastown.

Once an industrial district, Granville Island has been redeveloped as one of the city’s busiest, most colorful districts. Its pride and joy is the Public Market, where more than 50 shops and stalls sell fresh produce, fish and baked goods. West of downtown is Stanley Park, one of Vancouver’s gems. A 1,000-acre park encircled by a seawall, it has something for everyone: old-growth forest, manicured gardens, ocean beaches, totem poles, recreational facilities and the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre. Queen Elizabeth Park, atop Little Mountain in the city’s center, offers sweeping views and the Bloedel Floral Conservatory, a delightful display of tropical plants and free-flying birds under a geodesic dome. The VanDusen Botanical Garden showcases a world-renowned collection of small, specialized gardens, including one of only three Elizabethan hedge mazes in North America. North of downtown across the Burrard Inlet, the Skyride gondola takes you up 4,100-foot-high Grouse Mountain, providing panoramic views of the city and harbor.

VOYAGES: Alaska

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v i c t or i a

english style did you

know?

TOURISM VICTORIA

Victoria was named in 1843 after England’s Queen Victoria, who, at the time, had reigned for less than a decade.

Anchored on the southern tip of Vancouver Island on the west coast of Canada, Victoria cradles a picturesque harbor and offers views of the distant, snowcapped Olympic Mountains of Washington. Blessed with the mildest climate in Canada, Victoria is a pristine city of gardens and flowers. Color blazes in tidy flower boxes and baskets that hang from 19th centurystyle lampposts, and the city’s sculptured gardens have won international acclaim. Victoria has an elegant charm and graciousness that sets it apart. Often called “more English than England,” the city has strived to uphold its British traditions.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Most of Victoria’s sights fan out from the Inner Harbour. The centerpiece is the venerable Empress Hotel. A symbol of an earlier era’s gentility, the regal, ivy-covered stone chateau dates back to 1908 and is renowned for its afternoon tea. Just behind the Empress is the glass-roofed Crystal Gardens, with thousands of exotic plants and tropical birds. To the south is the Royal British Columbia Museum, which celebrates British Columbia’s natural wonders with vivid dioramas of rain forest, sea and other habitats. Also worth a visit is the Maritime Museum, a mecca for those who enjoy nautical artifacts, models and charts. About 20 minutes north of downtown is the city’s famous Butchart Gardens, dating from the early 1900s. Over the years, the garden has expanded into a 50-acre botanical showcase arrayed with formal gardens and elaborate fountains. Near the waterfront is lively Bastion Square, site of the original Fort Victoria. It’s lined with restored 19th-century brick buildings offering shops, galleries and more. You’ll also find many items imported from the United Kingdom. princess cruises

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whi ttier

wild and wonderful

did you

know?

PRINCESS CRUISES

Whittier’s Small Boat Harbor docks more than 300 commercial and charter boats — that’s over 30 percent more boats than people!

On the western edge of the Prince William Sound and 60 miles south of Anchorage, the small town of Whittier has little over 200 residents. Its sparse population and limited access (only by plane, boat or a one-way tunnel) keep Whittier isolated from the rest of the world, but also preserves its fascinating history and a wealth of natural wonder, from glistening glaciers to an array of wildlife. PLACES OF INTEREST

Whittier is most famously known for being the “town under one roof.” Begich Towers, originally built for military use in the 1950s, offers apartments on 14 stories, providing a home to 94

almost the entire town’s population. The building also houses all of Whittier’s public facilities and services including a post office, a hospital, the Whittier Police Department and the mayor’s office. There is also a small Methodist Church, a grocery, laundry, a small hotel and a play area with an indoor pool. Don’t forget to visit the reindeer pen right outside the condominium. The only other main structure in town is the Buckner Building. Once an important part of this isolated army outpost, the building fell into disrepair after an earthquake in the 1960s. Its eerie ruins can still be visited today. Inside the Anchor Inn in downtown Whittier, a small but fascinating museum gives a glimpse of Whittier’s interesting history. The exhibits tell the story of Whittier’s history as a military port and rail terminal as well as reflections on Alaskan military heritage during World War II and the Cold War. The Passage Canal, considered the gateway to the Prince William Sound, is the takeoff point for many outdoor activities from kayaking by glaciers to whale watching for orcas and humpback whales.

VOYAGES: Alaska

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VOYAGES advertiser index

A Alaska Shirt Company................................................................................................................87 Alpaca International...................................................................................................................75 B Blue Diamond................................................................................................................................73 C Cariloha.......................................................................................................................................... 23 D Del Sol..............................................................................................................................................15 E Effy Jewelry. . ......................................................................................................10, 40, 54, 68, 96 G The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show...................................................................................81 H Hearts on Fire..................................................................................................................................3 Hyde Fur & Shearling Co.......................................................................................................... 79 I Infinity Jewelry. . .......................................................................................................................... 83 J Julie’s Fine Jewelry & Gifts......................................................................................................77 K Korite Ammolite.............................................................................................................................5 L Lugaro . . .......................................................................................................................... Back Cover M Mark Henry Alexandite Jewelry Collection.. ..................................................................... Inside Front Cover, 1, 25 Modani Jewels................................................................................................................................. 7 Monarch Jewels............................................................................................................................78 O Orocal — The Natural Gold Company..................................................................................37 R Russalite Jewelry Collection by Royal................................................................................ 39 S Swarovski.. ........................................................................................................................................ 9 W White Pass & Yukon Route . . ..................................................................................................... 89 Please refer to the individual display advertisement for additional locations and information.

The businesses featured above have paid to be included in this publication.

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AVA I L A B L E O N B OA R D J U N E A U I K E T C H I K A N I S K A G W AY

E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

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F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9

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