HERALD A SEABOURN CLUB PUBLICATION | VOLUME 28 NUMBER 3
AN ART LOVER’S ST. PETERSBURG ANDALUSIAN TILES | LOBSTER LOCALES | DEEP ALASKA
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BREITLING BOUTIQUES BARBADOS • GRAND CAYMAN AUTHORIZED DEALERS: DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL: ANTIGUA, ARUBA, BARBADOS, BELIZE, COSTA MAYA, COZUMEL, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC, JAMAICA, PUERTO RICO, ST. KITTS KIRK FREEPORT: CAYMAN ISLANDS • JOHN BULL: BAHAMAS
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The Breitling Cinema Squad Charlize Theron Brad Pitt Adam Driver
LAND
NAVITIMER 8
AIR
SEA
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CONTRIBUTORS
HERALD Bill Panoff PUBLISHER Linda Douthat ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR Grant Balfour, Phillip Crandall MANAGING EDITORS Chanel Samson COPY EDITOR Skip Anderson, Caroline Geertz ART DIRECTORS Laura Roche SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Maria Baro PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Tammy Robinson PRODUCTION MANAGER Alexandria Geubelle CREATIVE ASSISTANT
JACK
STEPHEN
ANNA
Jack Feerick, Stephen Grasso, Anna Hedigan, Jan Napier, Mark Stachiew, Richard Varr CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Deb Bottcher PROOFREADER Alamy, eStock, Getty Images, Ingram Images, Jan Napier, Superstock CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Ellen McKnight / Alamy COVER PHOTO
JAN
MARK
RICHARD
Π CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS: PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 • Fax: (954) 377-7000 Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com • Website: www.ppigroup.com For advertising information, contact sales@ppigroup.com
JACK FEERICK has written for Better Homes & Gardens, The Saturday Evening Post, and Mental Floss, along with small-press poetry, fiction and comics. He lives and works in western New York with his family; his Scotch of preference is Auchentoshan 12-Year-Old — if you’re buying. STEPHEN GRASSO is a freelance writer and world traveler currently based in Hialeah, Florida, previously from London, UK, and originally from Newcastle. He writes about music, film and culture, and is working on his first novel. ANNA HEDIGAN writes arts journalism, fiction and non-fiction. In travel, she favors train timetables, sensible shoes and hard liquor as currency.
Sharon Cherry VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND SALES AND DEVELOPMENT Brett Grady DIRECTOR, GLOBAL SALES Iris Rodriguez DIRECTOR, SALES AMERICAS Richard Collins REGIONAL SALES MANAGER
Bill Panoff PRESIDENT/CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Audrey Balbiers-Panoff CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jose I. Martin CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Linda Douthat SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHING Piero Vitale SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, CORPORATE STRATEGY & FINANCIAL PLANNING Sharon Cherry VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND SALES AND DEVELOPMENT Soren Domlesky DIRECTOR OF TECHNOLOGY
JAN NAPIER has lived abroad in Italy, Panama and Guatemala, writing for Rough Guide guidebooks, Caribbean Travel & Life, Chicago Tribune, and Wisconsin State Journal, as well as a memoir, The Yogurt Man Cometh: Tales of an American Teacher in Turkey.
Christina Hunting VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL MARKETING Patti Lankford EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE CEO Please address all correspondence to Herald c/o PPI Group Corporate Headquarters. Printed in Canada.
Montreal-based travel journalist MARK STACHIEW has been traveling the world and writing about it for more than 25 years. Formerly the Travel Editor for Postmedia Network Inc.’s canada.com, his writing and photography have appeared in numerous publications. A former TV reporter, Houston-based RICHARD VARR has written for USA Today, AOL Travel, the Dallas Morning News, Porthole Cruise Magazine, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Good Sam Club’s Highways and AAA’s Home & Away. Richard also wrote the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Philadelphia & the Pennsylvania Dutch Country.
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©2018 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Seabourn Club Herald is published under contract to PPI Group. The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to editorial@ppigroup.com. Commentary and opinions expressed in Seabourn Club Herald are not necessarily those of the publisher, and the Seabourn Cruise Line and PPI Group are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Seabourn Club Herald. Seabourn may share some of your profile information with our affiliated companies, which comprise the World’s Leading Cruise Lines. You may limit our affiliated companies from marketing their products to you based on the information that we collect and share with them. Your choice to limit marketing offers from our affiliates will apply until you tell us otherwise. You may request that your information not be used in marketing efforts of our affiliates by contacting us at privacy@seabourn.com or Seabourn Cruise Line, Attn. Affiliate OptOut, 450 Third Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119. For cruise reservations, call your travel agent or call Seabourn at (800) 929-9391.
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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F O R A LL TH AT YO U A R E
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in this issue
HERALD 28.3
34 20
42 WINTER PALACE MYSTERIES 20 Catherine the Great launched an art collection
that spans the centuries with eternal beauty.
By Anna Hedigan
PAPA’S CUBA 28 For Hemingway fans, a Havana visit can
become a literary pilgrimage.
By Mark Stachiew
34
TILED AND TRUE
The artists who create Andalusia’s azulejos showcase Iberian history.
By Richard Varr
DEEP ALASKA 42 From orcas to stealthy submarines, there
are hidden worlds filled with amazing secrets just below Alaska’s waterline.
By Jack Feerick 08
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Clockwise from top left: eStock; Karl Kost / Alamy; Alfred Eisenstaedt / Getty Images; SuperStock
FEATURES
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M
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F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9
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12 A LETTER TO CLUB MEMBERS from Richard Meadows DEPARTMENTS
14 BEHIND THE SHIELD 61 UNCORKED Did you know?
16 ON THE HORIZON
The latest news from Seabourn
48 RIGHT STUFF
Fine things to want
52 CUISINES OF THE WORLD CONNOISSEUR CRUISING FOR LOBSTER
Here’s how to sample the best of the Northeast coast. By Jan Napier
ANISE SPIRITS OLD & NEW
The latest distillers prove the traditions behind ouzo and pastis have deep roots – ones that can grow in delicious new directions. By Stephen Grasso
62 MINDFUL LIVING NATURE THERAPY AND YOU
Time spent in wild environments has benefits for your body and your mind. By Dr. Andrew Weil
56 CLUB PICKS 68 SEE/HEAR/DO FOUR JOURNEYS
An insider’s look at upcoming voyages
58 GRAPES & GRAINS
OUZO, SAMBUCA, PASTIS AND ARAK
Whatever you want to call them, anise aperitifs are the flavor of southern Europe, and a key to enjoying Mediterranean meals. By Stephen Grasso
Seabourn suggests how to spend your down time.
69 GUESTS’ GALLERY
Memories Seabourn Club members have taken home with them from their optional Ventures by Seabourn™ excursions
72 VIEWFINDER Ilulissat, Greenland
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Top to bottom: Jan Napier; mauritius images GmbH / Alamy
Clockwise from top left: eStock; Karl Kost / Alamy; Alfred Eisenstaedt / Getty Images; SuperStock
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SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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A WORD FROM OUR PRESIDENT
DEAR SEABOURN CLUB MEMBER,
W
elcome to our final Seabourn Club Herald of the year. As the season advances toward the holidays, our fleet of intimate, ultra-luxury ships have completed their annual migrations and are once again delivering our guests to a selection of the world’s most desirable destinations. Seabourn Odyssey is sailing among the Windward and Leeward Islands of our Uncommon Caribbean. Seabourn Sojourn has embarked on a full season of Extended Explorations across the Pacific and Indian Oceans, enroute to Africa and Asia. Seabourn Quest has ventured along the Pacific coast of South America to begin another breathtaking season of incomparable cruises in Antarctica & Patagonia. Seabourn Encore is exploring the lively cities of Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific, while Seabourn Ovation sails the ancient Spice Route through Arabia to the gilded temples and palaces of Thailand and Vietnam. Meanwhile, in this issue Anna Hedigan invites you to contemplate a few of the over one million art objects gathered by Tsarina Catherine the Great in St. Petersburg’s ornate Winter Palace. Mark Stachiew follows the rumsoaked ramblings of Papa Ernest Hemingway among the waterfront dives, historic hotels and bucolic countryside fincas in and around Havana, Cuba. Across the Atlantic in Andalusia, Richard Varr elaborates on the long tradition and far-reaching influence of Iberian-style azulejo decorative ceramic tiles. And Jack Feerick dives beneath the waters of Alaska to reveal the hidden lives of creatures living in the nutrient-rich northern seas. As always, we also gather news and notes from our ships and headquarters, as well as another inspiring and enlightening article by our partner Dr. Andrew Weil on the profound therapeutic effects of time spent in nature. This holiday season always arrives with a joyous fanfare, and for us it is especially joyous this year as we anticipate the creation of a pair of intimate, purpose-built ships that will enable us to further expand the definition of ultra-luxury expedition cruising. Watch for more news about these exceptional vessels in the months to come. In the meantime, I wish you the very happiest of holidays, and I hope that we may welcome you back on board one of our ships in the near future. Sincerely,
Richard Meadows President
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SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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When the conditions are unpredictable you need a watch that isn’t. 500 metres below sea level is no place to find out that your watch won’t function at 500 below sea level. That’s why every Bremont watch is ruthlessly engineered to be fit for purpose. However extreme that purpose might be. Anywhere you can go, a Bremont can go too. And usually further. Your Bremont is probably tougher than you are. The new Supermarine S500/BL has been hand-built and tested on British shores, at our headquarters in Henley-on-Thames. Sure, it has its limits, but you’re unlikely to ever find them.
S500/BL
British Engineering. Tested Beyond Endurance.
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BEHIND THE SHIELD
FROM LACY FJORDS TO BAROQUE PALACES: SEABOURN’S SUMMER IN NORTHERN EUROPE
NORTHERN EUROPE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A REAL PEOPLE-PLEASER AS A CRUISE DESTINATION, OFFERING A WIDE VARIETY OF ATTRACTIONS THAT APPEAL TO EVERY TRAVELER’S APPETITE.
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DOVER
COPENHAGAN
NORWAY
ST. PETERSBURG
The rich legacy of history, architecture
and other wildlife, and picturesque
and art in Northern Europe have made
traditional villages and ancient Viking
it a perennial favorite for Seabourn
sites
guests. The region also offers fabulous
and fascinating history. Cruising there
Seabourn Quest - 14 days Lisbon to Dover
shopping and seasonal culinary appeal,
in summer, Seabourn Quest will carry
(London) May 3, 2019.
and now – with the addition of expert
an extensive team of knowledgeable
A European Grand Tour in unmatched
Ventures
by
Seabourn™
add
intriguing
human
interest
A few examples of the variety on these innovative itineraries: Gems of Iberia & France.
expedition
naturalists, archaeologists, photography
elegance and ease. Follow the spring
teams, Zodiacs and kayaks on Seabourn
coaches and other experts who will
from Lisbon to London, sampling vintage
Quest – we are adding optional active,
share fascinating insights with guests on
port on the River Douro, Calvados in
immersive adventures to your options for
board and also escort optional Zodiac
Normandy and lambic beer in Belgium.
experiencing it all on select sailings.
tours, kayaking excursions and hikes to
Visit
Robin West, Seabourn’s vice president
breathtaking waterfalls, glaciers, icebergs
Compostela, castles in Ireland and Wales,
of expedition operations, has worked
and snowcapped peaks to enhance and
and the elaborate palaces of Brussels,
with senior director of itinerary planning
extend guest’s experiences.
Antwerp and Paris.
the
cathedral
at
Santiago
de
Timothy Littley to design an innovative
Our stunning new Seabourn Ovation
series of specially curated itineraries
will also sail in Northern Europe next
Seabourn Ovation – 15 days Dover
taking full advantage of the many scenic
summer, cruising the Baltic Sea to
(London) to Copenhagen June 7, 2019.
natural splendors and cultural treasures of
cosmopolitan Helsinki and medieval
A spectacular journey among Norway’s
Northern Europe.
Tallinn, and staying three full days among
towering fjords and snow-capped peaks,
During the northern summer, Norway,
the stately, baroque pastel palaces of
enlivened by visits to picturesque villages,
the scattered British Isles, Iceland and
St. Petersburg, during 7-day voyages
charming cities and rustic, unspoiled
Greenland provide a range of cruising
between Stockholm and Copenhagen,
islands – all glowing in the lingering light of
destinations as unique and spectacular
alternating with voyages among the iconic
the Midnight Sun. Bustling Bergen, the art-
as anywhere on Earth. Their iceberg-
and smaller, less-visited British Isles and
nouveau façades of Alesund, the looming
dotted fjords and sheer island cliffs teem
extended cruises to the majestic fjords of
Lofoten Islands and Europe’s northernmost
with vast colonies of breeding birds
the Norwegian coast and the North Cape.
point – the North Cape itself.
Scenic Fjords & North Cape.
Ingram Image (5)
LISBON
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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#TOTALLYSTUNNED #NOWORDS #BESTCRUISEEVER #SURPRISE #MILANOROCKS
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ON THE HORIZON
continued from 14
Gems of the Irish Sea & Hebrides. Seabourn Quest – 15 days Round-trip from Dover (London) July 1, 2019. Join a Ventures by Seabourn™ expedition team for an adventurous exploration of
UNESCO BANFF NATIONAL PARKS & THE ROCKY MOUNTAINEER
the British Isles. Discover the natural and human history of “The Western World” of Bantry, Killybegs, Limerick and Galway in Ireland, and the ruggedly beautiful Scottish Hebrides, with options to explore in Zodiacs, kayaks or on foot. Belfast, Dublin and southern England add their own elements to the experience. Gems of Northern Europe. Seabourn Ovation – 14 days Copenhagen to Dublin August 31, 2019. Engage in a late-summer exploration of stately medieval Northern European cities, from Oslo and Fredrikstad, Norway in the north to Berlin and picturesque Lübeck in Germany, and on to Brussels and Rotterdam. A daylight transit of the Kiel Canal carries Seabourn Ovation between the Baltic and North Seas through the bucolic, agricultural Schleswig-Holstein region of Germany. To view the full array of Seabourn’s handcrafted summer voyages in Northern
Ingram Image
Europe, visit Seabourn.com.
Alexander Column, St. Petersburg
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Seabourn is excited to be able to offer a new, ultra-luxury Seabourn Journey in connection with Seabourn Sojourn 2019 cruises in Alaska and British Columbia. Our 7-day Canadian Rockies adventure begins with arrival at the city of Calgary, Alberta. Located at the meeting of two rivers just 50 miles east of the front range of the Rockies, Calgary proudly claims the nickname “Stampede City” from its origins as a rail terminus for the surrounding rangelands of the Canadian plains and site of the annual Calgary Stampede rodeo. Today, it boasts the highest number of millionaires per capita in Canada, a plethora of corporate headquarters and was named by the Economist as the fourth most-livable city on Earth. Your overnight stay is reserved at the Fairmont Palliser Hotel just adjacent to the city’s iconic Calgary Tower. After exploring Calgary on your own the following morning, meet your Journey
escort or local host after lunch to board a motor coach for a scenic drive from the plains into the majestic Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies. Your sightseeing afternoon includes viewing the bizarre hoodoos rock formations, a ride along the scenic 3-mile loop of Tunnel Mountain Drive and a stop at Surprise Corner, with a splendid view of the 1888 Banff Springs Hotel, the “Castle of the Rockies,” framed by the cascades of the Bow River below and Sulphur Mountain above. After checking into the beautiful Rimrock Resort Hotel at Banff, you will join your group for dinner that evening at the resort’s Eden Restaurant. Two more days in and around Banff include a full day exploring the breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage legacy of Banff and Yoho National Parks, including glowing, blue-green Moraine Lake, the amazing Spiral Tunnels in Kicking Horse Pass, the aptly named Emerald Lake, Natural Bridge
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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Top to bottom: Rocky Mountaineer (2); eStock
EXPERIENCE THE GRANDEUR OF THE MAJESTIC CANADIAN ROCKIES, BANFF NATIONAL PARK AND LAKE LOUISE, CROWNED BY ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST SPECTACULAR RAIL JOURNEYS IN A LUXURY, GLASS-DOMED CAR.
Takakkaw Falls
and the magnificent Takakkaw Falls, with lunch at the famous Chateau Lake Louise and dinner at the stunningly situated Three Ravens Restaurant. The second day at Banff is your chance to explore the Banff National Park on your own, using your included National Park pass and a ticket for a breathtaking ride on the Banff Gondola. Your Seabourn Journey escort or local host can help you make the most of your leisure day, which might could include any of a variety of outdoor activities, a visit to the impressive Banff Museum, shopping on Banff Avenue or a soak in the town’s famous hot mineral springs. On day five, you’ll check out of the hotel and transfer to the station to embark the world-famous Rocky Mountaineer train for an unforgettable, scenic GoldLeaf Service rail journey through the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Enjoy a delicious gourmet breakfast aboard your luxurious bi-level glass-domed car, equipped with an additional outdoor platform for viewing outside in the mountain air. Award-winning cuisine is freshly prepared on board and elegantly served for luncheon and dinner, and snacks and all alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are included. A knowledgeable GoldLeaf host interprets the scenery and answers any questions. At the day’s end, you will be transferred from the Rocky Mountaineer Kamloops Station to your overnight hotel. Enjoy another scenic day aboard the luxurious Rocky Mountaineer on the journey from Kamloops to Vancouver at the coast. As you enjoy a delicious hot breakfast and luncheon on board, you wind down from the foothills of the Rockies, gliding through scenic river canyons, the broad Fraser Valley and into the lush coastal region of British Columbia. On arrival at Vancouver’s Rocky Mountaineer Station you will be transferred to the Pan Pacific Hotel on the waterfront for an overnight stay. After a night in the modern, luxurious Pan Pacific Hotel, meet your escort at midday to embark Seabourn Sojourn, located on the pier just adjacent to your hotel, in preparation for beginning your voyage of the spectacular coasts and islands of Alaska and British Columbia. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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Catherine the Great launched an art collection that spans the centuries with eternal beauty.
MARKA / Alamy
By Anna Hedigan
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SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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St. Petersburg’s Hermitage does everything bigger than any other cultural institution worldwide, except perhaps the Louvre — in terms of its square footage, its vast trove of holdings (over three million objects) and the unflinching luxuriousness of its buildings. Even a single exhibition space — say, the Large Italian Skylight Room — could require an hour to examine. Savour the enormous urns of solid malachite with serpent-form gilded handles, chased-bronze massive candelabras, baroque marbles, gold commode tables and large canvases by Luca Giordano, Giovanni Battista Crespi, Canaletto, Francesco Guardi and Tiepolo. The upper half of the room, where light floods down through the skylight, is executed as a double-height vault of Renaissance-motif gilded plaster of incredible richness. A visual feast, but only one of the collection’s over 350 rooms.
eStock
ARTISTIC ORIGINS To wander The Hermitage evokes the sumptuousness of the Imperial Easter Eggs that master jeweler Fabergé crafted for members of Tsar Nicholas II’s family to exchange as gifts on the most holy day of the Russian Orthodox year. You can see some
of Fabergé’s work on display in the Gold Room and marvel at the craftsmanship and preciousness of it. His jewelry represents some of the last expressions of Russian aristocratic taste and patronage before the Revolution in 1917. That taste first emerged at The Hermitage with Russia’s most significant leader, Catherine II, or Catherine Alexeyevna, née Princess Sophia Augusta Frederike of Anhalt-Zerbst. On June 28, 1762, with military support, she overthrew her husband Emperor Peter III and seized control of Russia. Catherine was empress for 34 years and sent her diplomats and imperial agents to purchase the best of Western art — Dutch, Flemish, Italian, French and English. Collections were bought wholesale: over 600 paintings from Saxon Prime Minister Count de Brule, over 400 paintings from the French aristocrat Pierre Crozat. They even snapped up the collection of English Prime Minister Sir Robert Walpole from his heirs, a sale that had the London press up in arms at the thought of it leaving England. Catherine’s correspondence with French encyclopaedists Diderot and Grimm influenced her spending sprees and soon her collection had outgrown the Winter Palace, necessitating the construction of the Small and Large Hermitages. This was not a
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Clockwise from top left: eStock; mauritius images GmbH / Alamy; Heritage Images / Getty Images
public collection — Catherine used to joke, “The only ones to admire all this are the mice and me” — but surrounding herself with such refinements demonstrated her power and wealth to her own aristocracy and her diplomatic visitors. Catherine established art collecting as a tradition for Russian royalty that was enriched and enlarged upon by her successors. Alexander I purchased Josephine de Beauharnais’s collection from Malmaison (which must have been especially sweet considering her ex-husband Bonaparte had failed in his attempt to subjugate Russia), while Nicholas I and Alexander II expanded The Hermitage’s collection of Greek and Roman antiques.
CATHERINE USED TO JOKE, “THE ONLY ONES TO ADMIRE ALL THIS ARE THE MICE AND ME.” A hermitage is a place of refuge and contemplation. That is what Catherine called her picture gallery — with a delicate irony, one assumes — but the name gives a sense of the instruction to be taken from her collection. There are lessons to be absorbed, just as there are from the great iconostases of Russian Orthodox churches, alive with the figures of the saints… or even the traditional “red corner” of each Russian home, where domestic icons are placed to be venerated. Russians intuitively understand the power and charge of looking at beautiful images. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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A SINGLE TAKE Russian Ark, Alexander Sokurov’s movie of The Hermitage as repository of the country’s cultural heritage, uses continuous motion of the camera to make the viewer feel free. We can float across a room to see something that has caught the eye high on a wall, or chase the figure of Catherine the Great as she dashes into the deep snow of a bare midwinter avenue of trees, her lumbering gait evoking the weight of her inescapable responsibilities. The French diplomat Custine, the ghost who acts as the movie’s guide, enters the hall known as the Raphael Loggia (neither the work of Raphael, nor the architectural form of a loggia), crouches down to look at the work in detail and admires it while scathingly remarking on the quality of Russian copyists: “So fine… because you have no ideas of your own.” The decorative scheme of the arched hallway — lozenges of color and line-work known as grotesque style — were commissioned by Catherine the Great to emulate the light and color of the Vatican. Raphael had decorated the Vatican’s Borgia apartments with inspiration from a classical discovery of his own time: ancient frescoes from Nero’s Domus Aurea, rediscovered in the 15th century when collapsed earth revealed his subterranean palace. The classical decoration of Nero’s unearthed palace deteriorated rapidly, but not before Raphael copied the rich colors and decorative scheme featuring fanciful doodles of armor, masks, grotesque faces and amusements. He then painted them into a scheme to invoke the sophistication and power of ancient Rome for his papal client. The Hermitage copies also sought to draw on that power, though in a more “no holds barred” way. The Raphael stanze in the Vatican are fresco (painted onto wet plaster), but Christopher Unterberger and his studio executed Catherine’s copies in tempera on canvas (egg yolk mixed with raw pigment in a technique similar to icon painting) — far brighter and flashier than the Italian originals. Russian Ark captures the wonder that any visitor to The Hermitage feels at the concentration of so much impressive treasure. The desire for the imperial tsars to be recognized as sophisticated by Western standards, for the collection to reflect their self-image, is palpable as each enfilade room reveals itself with more painting, sculpture, porcelain, automata, furniture, coins and archaeological treasures. It is unwise to attempt to see everything. Instead, like the Marquis de Custine, it is better to stop only for what captures your attention. Otherwise you risk being crushed by the scale of it all.
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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TIME TESTED It is to our benefit that post-revolutionary Russia valued The Hermitage. It is all the more remarkable considering that the storming of the Winter Palace by the Bolsheviks was the decisive act that kicked off the Revolution. This fact is recorded by the stopped clock in the small dining room of the Winter Palace, forever showing 2:10 a.m., when the provisional government was arrested there on the night of November 7, 1917. Contrast this with France’s revolution, where so many cultural treasures were destroyed (not a scrap of the Bastille remains). Retained as a symbol of the decadence of the disgraced Russian elite, The Hermitage collection was nationalized, and thus rescued from destruction. Time has restored its status as irreplaceable treasure. The more recent addition of an incredibly fine and significant modern art collection is essential to visit. Some works come from Russian collectors like Piotr Shchukin, while others were “liberated” by the Soviets from Nazi Germany, including Salon masterpieces, Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works and 20th-century pieces. The extent of these spoils of war was only revealed in the 1990s. Russia is increasingly concerned about the forced repatriation of works, and formerly warm relations with international galleries for exhibition lending has grown frosty in recent years. The Hermitage may be the only place you’ll ever see these masterpieces. In its last moments, Russian Ark shows a view over the Neva river from the entrance hall of The Hermitage. The river literally steams in the extreme cold. The entire building floats untethered as a great boat of culture, drifting across a voidlike blizzard away from the West that inspired it. The Hermitage collection was amassed to showcase the best of the West, but in bringing the art to the East, into the Imperium, it found a home where its value became cherished more here than where it came from. The Hermitage might just be the last place on earth where the art of Europe is preserved in the old way: not originally Russian, and yet entirely Russian in the protection and respect that it accords to the past.
FEATURE VOYAGE Seabourn Ovation calls on St. Petersburg for three full days during the 7-DAY ST. PETERSBURG & THE BALTIC sailing Stockholm to Copenhagen, departing on June 29, July 27 and August 24, 2019
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Papa’s For Hemingway fans, a Havana visit can become a literary pilgrimage.
Cuba by Mark Stachiew
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hese are the shrines to the patron saint of harddrinking novelists — the places where Ernest Hemingway lived, wrote, ate and drank in Havana. Today, pilgrims come to Cuba to visit these bars, hotels, houses and farms, to pay homage to their hero and to discover for themselves what the literary giant found so compelling about the island nation. HOTEL AND MOJITO The pilgrimage route begins at the corner of Calle Obispo and Mercaderes in Old Havana, at the Hotel Ambos Mundo. This is where Hemingway stayed on his first visit to Cuba, and it became his winter residence for several years. He rented room 511 on the top floor for its fine views of the city and began work on his celebrated novel of the Spanish Civil War, For Whom the Bell Tolls. The room has since been preserved as Hemingway would have left it. His fans come every day to gawp at the relics left behind, like his typewriter that is displayed under glass.
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When Hemingway wasn’t writing, he was drinking. He famously wrote: “My mojito in the Bodeguita del Medio and my daiquiri in the Floridita.” Like holy fountains referenced in scripture, Hemingway’s followers flock to these establishments to drink the drinks that Papa preferred. The Bodeguita del Medio, on Calle Empedrado No. 206 in Old Havana, is a hole-in-the-wall that feels like an authentic local bar, but without the locals. The walls inside and out are covered in scribbled graffiti with dates and names of visitors along with their praise for Hemingway and Cuba. Hemingway’s 30
own signature is framed there for all to see, like a saint’s reliquary. In the tiny bar, tourists swarm to order mojitos at the counter where a bartender methodically assembles a perfect mint-and-rum filled drink for every customer. Their mojito recipe is simple, yet the drink is sublime in the tropical heat. Mix a half-teaspoon of sugar with a half-ounce of lemon juice in a glass, then add a handful of fresh mint leaves with three ounces of soda water. Mash the mint, then top it with ice and one ounce of threeyear-old Havana Club rum. Most mojitos are then imbibed while posing for selfies (because if the
Clockwise from top left: Romuald RAT / Getty Images; AFP Contributor / Getty Images; Roberto Machado Noa / Getty Images
Drinking at the Bodeguita (left) and the Floridita (right)
experience isn’t posted on social media, then it didn’t happen). As a lifelong selfpromoter who was a master at crafting his own public image, Hemingway would no doubt approve. Upstairs, a restaurant serves traditional Cuban fare with dishes like rice and beans and ropa vieja, which translates as “old clothes,” but is actually a delicious stewed beef-and-vegetable dish. The success of the Bodeguita has spawned franchises around the world, so if you like the experience in Havana, you can relive it in places like Mexico City, Caracas, Toronto, Lisbon, Barcelona, Qatar, Geneva, Rome, Moscow and elsewhere.
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Clockwise from top left: Tore Johnson / Getty Images; YAMIL LAGE / Getty Images; Arne Hodalic / Getty Images
VISITORS TO THE FARM CAN ALSO SEE PILAR, HEMINGWAY’S WOODEN FISHING BOAT.
Revolutionary history (left) lives on in the Floridita (right).
DAIQUIRI IN THE AFTERNOON Back on the busy main street of Calle Obispo, Hemingway pilgrims venture to La Floridita for their daiquiris. In the corner of the bar is a bronze statue of the bearded American writer, next to the roped-off barstool that served as the throne from which he held court during his time in Cuba. Foreign tourists crowd the bar to sip La Floridita’s signature drink. Selfies are once again obligatory. A haze of smoke fills the room from the fat, Cuban cigars that it seems everyone is puffing. A band continuously plays a lively set of Cuban music that always seems to
loop back to that familiar standard, “La Guantanamera,” a song that is played wherever tourists gather — along with selections from The Buena Vista Social Club, possibly the only Cuban songs with which most foreign visitors are familiar. In the backroom, patrons can enjoy a meal in relative peace, but with views of the bar so they don’t miss any of the action. If you’re familiar with the slushy drinks that are usually passed off as daiquiris elsewhere, you might be surprised by La Floridita’s recipe. It’s simply one-and-a-half ounces of white rum combined with a halfounce of fresh lime juice, a quarter-ounce simple syrup, a quarter-ounce Maraschino
liqueur and a splash of grapefruit juice. It’s all mixed in an ice-filled cocktail shaker then strained into a chilled cocktail glass and garnished with a wedge of lime. HOME IN THE HILLS Hemingway loved Cuba so much that he eventually used the money he made from For Whom the Bell Tolls to buy a home 15 miles from Old Havana on a lovely, wooded 15-acre property with distant views of the ocean. Dubbed Finca Vigía, which is Spanish for “Lookout Farm,” it’s where he spent many a winter until the late 1950s. It’s also where he wrote several books, SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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Finca Vigía, Hemingway’s 15-acre farm
including The Old Man and the Sea, perhaps his most celebrated novel and the one that ultimately won him the Pulitzer Prize and the Nobel Prize for Literature. In appreciation for all that Cuba had given him, Hemingway donated his Nobel Prize medal to Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre Basilica, an important church in the eastern part of the country near Santiago de Cuba. Owned today by the Cuban government, his house has been preserved as Hemingway left it and it almost seems like he’ll be home any minute. Visitors cannot enter the onestory house, but can walk around it and voyeuristically peek into the windows which have been thrown wide open to reveal his huge library, the walls covered with trophies of the animals he killed on safari in Africa and even the notes he penciled on the walls of his bathroom
to track his daily weight. They can also climb an adjacent tower which has a study on the top where Hemingway would look out to gaze on Havana and the sea. When revolution came to Cuba, Hemingway actually supported the idea of deposing dictator Fulgencio Batista, but when word came that Fidel Castro’s new government would nationalize property owned by Americans and other foreigners, he never returned. While Hemingway’s haunts in Old Havana are walking distance from the city’s cruise terminal, his farm is a bit of a hike out of town, but tours of the city frequently stop there. Visitors to the farm can also see Pilar, Hemingway’s wooden fishing boat. He’d motor the 38-foot vessel off the Cuban coast in his quest to catch massive game fish, especially marlins. There’s even a Hemingway International
Fishing Tournament every May or June that’s now in its 68th year. The tournament sails out of the appropriately named Hemingway Marina in Havana. If you’ve got time to go fishing, then there are plenty of charters out of the marina that will take you out to reenact your own Old Man and the Sea experience in the waters around Havana. As relations slowly thaw between the United States and Cuba, more pilgrims will follow the Hemingway trail. Along the way, they will learn more about the life of one of the English-speaking world’s most famous writers, but, more importantly, they will bump into ordinary Cubans and duck down side streets to encounter the many charms of this beautiful Caribbean nation that fascinated Hemingway so and perhaps be seduced themselves in the same way that he was.
FEATURE VOYAGE Seabourn Sojourn overnights in Havana during the 12-DAY STARS OF THE CUBAN SKY* sailing round-trip Miami, departing on November 16 and 28, 2018 *SEABOURN SHORE EXCURSIONS ARE DESIGNED TO COMPLY WITH U.S. REGULATIONS ON TRAVEL TO CUBA. FOR INFORMATION ABOUT REQUIREMENTS FOR TRAVEL TO CUBA, PLEASE VISIT Seabourn.com/Cuba 32
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T I L ED TRUE
The artists who create Andalusia’s azulejos showcase Iberian history.
Tourism New Zealand
by Richard Varr
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I pass by an apartment doorway with a dazzling display of handmade painted tiles in blue and yellow swirling designs, centered by an image of golden Spanish galleons. Tile panels flank the doorway of the 18th-century Capilla de los Marineros, a sailors’ chapel in Seville’s spirited Triana barrio, featuring images of the Virgin Mary and Christ bearing the cross. Outside Triana’s bustling marketplace, yet another set of tiles portrays vendors on donkeys selling pottery jugs, fresh vegetables and eggs in a typical market scene. Walk along any city street in Seville and you’ll soon realize the colorful glazed ceramic tiles called azulejos seem to be everywhere. They’re within courtyards, on storefronts and building facades. They’re emblazoned on church walls and along the hallways of medieval stone palaces. Images vary, ranging from colorful caricatures of everyday residents to monarchs, saints and noblemen in what look like vivid oil paintings. And many feature geometric designs — simple, yet intricate at the same time. Azulejos are an important part of Spanish and Portuguese cultures that have spread throughout the Iberian Peninsula and beyond — seen, for example, on the elaborately tiled benches of Plaza 25 de Julio in the Canary Islands’ Santa Cruz de Tenerife, or as trim within Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí’s ceramic mosaic patterns on the crooked pillars and curving benches of Barcelona’s popular Parc Güell. Segovia’s fairytale-like Alcázar has simple tiles in its Hall of Kings and other chambers, while Toledo’s Museo del Greco — the Museum of El Greco — also houses tile artworks along with masterpieces by the famous Greek painter. SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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PATTERNS FROM NORTH AFRICA Stemming from Moorish traditions, azulejo is rooted from the Arabic word az-zulayj, meaning “little stone” or “polished stone.” In fact, the Moors painted their tiles in Arab-influenced zellige style, using elaborate geometric patterns to conform to the Islamic tradition of designs devoid of human figures. Starting with Moorish dominance in Andalusia in the 8th century, such tiles and intricate calligraphy plasterwork still line the walls and ceilings of Andalusia’s palaces and mosques built in Mudéjar architectural style, including Seville’s colossal Real Alcázar and Granada’s mighty hilltop Alhambra. After the Spanish drove out the last of the Moors in 1492, azulejo designs kept their Islamic geometric
patterns, but also started to include Christian-influenced, Renaissancebased figurative scenes — saints, biblical stories and mythology. By the end of the 16th century, craftsmen were designing such images spanning many tiles that would come together as wallsized decorations, particularly for large surfaces in churches and monasteries. “It has an Islamic legacy, but we consider azulejos as our own tradition by keeping it alive,” explains tour guide Raúl Flores. “It’s more than decoration because there’s an industry here.” Seville and its Triana neighborhood became one of the most prominent azulejo manufacturing centers in Spain. Since medieval times, Triana seemed worlds away from Seville, although just across the Guadalquivir River. Steeped
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in its working-class roots, the barrio’s character was shaped over the years by its resident sailors, fishermen, blacksmiths, artisans, singers, flamenco dancers and ceramic craftsmen who forged a community identity that local trianeros remain proud of today. “If you walk down a Triana street, it’s like being in a little village in a big city. It has a special atmosphere, a special essence,” asserts Flores. “The ‘real’ people used to live on the other side of the river — the royalty and nobility. Triana, 38
instead, was a mixing of cultures.” It’s no surprise that azulejo factories prospered, including the facility that today houses the Triana Ceramics Museum. Although production ceased in the late 20th century, the factory’s original firing kilns and warehouses remain. Outside, chipped and charred brick walls line the courtyard, while elaborate and colorful azulejo displays enliven the museum’s interior. One exhibit explains that more than 20 such factories fired up ceramics in Triana in the 1920s, but none remain active today.
CENTER OF TILES Exhibits detail how the blue-tinted clay soils from the Guadalquivir’s riverbanks and more earthen-colored soils from the nearby Aljarafe region were blended together to produce a clay more resistant to cracking. Workers would knead the clay with their feet and hands, then shape pottery, tiles and other pieces before firing them for up to 15 hours. The ceramics were cooled down, varnished and painted, and often reheated to complete the process. Colorful glazed tiles line the museum’s walls — a hawk with flapping wings, a peacock with its feathered tail amidst flowers, and birds doting on a fountain. Twentieth-century azulejo street signs and advertisements line another nearby wall, where my eye catches a bench top’s painted designs of young dancers frolicking in a meadow framed by intertwining blue, green and gold trim patterns. Because Seville’s ceramic factories so recently mass-produced azulejos, such colorful images are now practically at every corner — along floors and patios, within kitchens and as decorations in homes and gardens. Businesses post them on their storefronts and at their entrances, some with dates and tributes to their founders. One local bar, for example, includes an image of a bottle of wine with protruding grape vines amidst twisting, decorative designs. Others detail popular Seville landmarks such as the 13th-century river watchtower Torre del Oro and the imposing Gothic and Baroque Giralda Bell Tower of Seville’s imposing cathedral, where the remains of Christopher Columbus lie entombed within a sarcophagus as elaborate as those for royalty.
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ACROSS LA RAYA Portugal’s azulejo heritage, meanwhile, is proudly showcased in Lisbon’s National Tile Museum, where an enormous centerpiece exhibit, the Grand Panorama of Lisbon, stretches along several wall sections. Painted around 1700, it’s a view along the Tagus River highlighting such details as the central domed palace with turrets and balconies, a sky filled with rounded clouds, a hilltop castle, and hundreds of buildings clustered alongside pointed church steeples. Housed within a former convent, the museum showcases five centuries of Portuguese tile art — from early 16thcentury patterns with elaborate Islamic accents to contemporary painted tiles adorning Lisbon subway stations. Others include 17th-century hunting scenarios tinted with golden and green hues, as well
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Perhaps Seville’s most dazzling azulejo displays line the walls and towers of Plaza de España, a semicircular complex surrounded by a curving, multicolumned building within the urban forest of Parque de María Luisa. The neo-Mudéjar and neo-Renaissance architecture is trimmed with hundreds of glazed tiles — on the balustrades of bridges crossing a curving canal, on benches along the base, and on the cupolas of its many-columned towers. Azulejos there portray historic battles and maps of every Spanish province. Brightly colored tiles also decorate the park’s many fountains and pools. Construction began in 1914, and the plaza and park were deemed to be the centerpiece of the Iberoamerican Exposición of 1929.
BLUE-TINTED CLAY SOILS FROM THE GUADALQUIVIR’S RIVERBANKS AND MORE EARTHEN-COLORED SOILS FROM THE NEARBY ALJARAFE REGION WERE BLENDED TOGETHER TO PRODUCE A CLAY MORE RESISTANT TO CRACKING. as biblical, maritime and battle scenes. As with Seville’s azulejos, Lisbon’s tiles are seemingly everywhere as well, decorating outside walls and the interiors of the most elaborate palaces, churches and monasteries, and embellishing home
facades, squares, and even house number markers above doorways. CERAMIC MEMORIES Thus it’s no wonder that azulejos make great souvenirs. Outside the Triana Ceramics Museum, I visit Ceramica Triana, one of Seville’s most popular tile and pottery stores just down the street from other such artisan shops. Ceramics bursting with a cacophony of colors clutter store shelves — swirls and images on porcelain pottery, vases, individual and groups of tiles, coffee cups and tea sets, animal sculptures and bowls. Figurines of Spanish dancers in ruffled dresses are front and center in display windows. And there are ceramic house numbers, like those on many Andalusian houses, on sale to take home — a colorful way to spread the tradition of one of Andalusia’s most enduring art forms.
FEATURE VOYAGE
Seabourn Encore calls on Seville during the 11-DAY SPANISH MAGIC & MOROCCO sailing Barcelona to Monte Carlo, departing on July 25 and August 29, 2019
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Deep Alaska
From orcas to stealthy submarines, there are hidden worlds filled with amazing secrets just below Alaska’s waterline. by Jack Feerick
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Imagine the scene, here at the top of the world.
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Your ship plows the waters off the Alaskan Coast. From the vantage point of her deck, your eye turns to the wonders of the land: the stark peaks of the Chugach Mountains bordering the Gulf; brown bears roaming the islands of Prince William Sound; tidewater glaciers towering bluewhite, reflected in the rippling surface of the Kenai Fjords.
And under the surface? Mystery. Ocean temperatures here don’t rise much above 50° F even in midsummer. In winter, the water temperature hovers around freezing; it’s an environment seemingly as inimical to life as the surface of the moon. But life, as they say, finds a way. Far below the keel and the whirling propellers, fathoms down in the frigid North Pacific, where it’s sunless and silent, there is constant activity of marine life and human endeavor — most of it unseen. Look a little deeper.
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THEIR STORIES TELL OF SPLENDID UNDERSEA TOWNS RULED BY BENEVOLENT ORCAS IN HUMAN FORM.
SOUL OF A CHIEF It takes a fearless creature to thrive in these icy waters, and there are few creatures as fierce as the orca. These massive predators, also known as killer whales, can reach lengths of up to 26 feet. They prefer coastal waters to the profound depths of the open ocean, as they must surface periodically to breathe. The orca’s powerful jaws and teeth mark them as kin to dolphins. Their appetites are as undiscriminating and vast. With no predators but man, orcas will feast on schooling fish, seals, sea lions, rays and the smaller species of baleen whales. They have even been documented preying on the great white shark. Though their effective range stretches nearly from pole to pole, orcas are particularly associated with the oceans of the North, where they’ve been a subject of fascination — even worship — among indigenous peoples. The people of Vancouver Island regarded them as the reincarnated souls of great chiefs. The Haida, native to the Alaskan panhandle and Haida Gwaii (formerly Queen Charlotte Islands), held that orcas were 44
shape-shifters. Their stories tell of splendid undersea towns ruled by benevolent orcas in human form; the souls of departed sailors were said to dwell among them. Humanity’s relationship with the orca has not always been so benign. Orcas were not generally hunted for oil during the age of whaling, but were often harpooned
or shot nonetheless. Whalers considered them a nuisance, as they gathered around to scavenge from floating carcasses. In recent years, pods or “gangs” of up to 40 orcas have been reported stalking commercial fishing vessels in the Bering Sea — stripping catches of cod and halibut from their lines, leaving behind
Coastal brown bear fishing for salmon in Katmai National Park
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grounds for the red king crab — the most commercially prized of the Alaskan species — extend from Norton Sound, at the mouth of the Yukon River, to the islands of the Kodiak Archipelago south of Anchorage. As babies, king crabs float with plankton, feeding on diatoms and other microscopic creatures. Adult king crabs feed in deep waters, along the muddy bottom some 650 feet down. Fishing vessels sink heavy steel traps (called “pots”) to the sea floor, marking their location with buoys on the surface, then return a day or two later to haul the pots to the surface with hydraulic winches. The crabs are
numbers have steadily dropped since the crab-fishing heyday of the late 1970s, but king crabs still persist in international waters and in Russian territory around the Kamchatka peninsula. The fishing
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FEAST OF GREAT PRICE Sustainable fishing is also an issue for the Alaskan king crab. This Bering Sea native may be a familiar guest at your supper table. Its massive legs — which, when fully extended, give the creature an overall width of about 6 feet — are a prized delicacy, their meat juicy and sweet. Their
Alaskan king crabs
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only the heads and the hooks. The whales may harass a boat for hours, even chasing it at high speed when the captain tries to make a getaway. Overfishing of food stocks has brought orcas to this — and these intelligent, sociable animals are also at great risk from the build-up of toxins like PCBs in their fat stores, bringing on slow poisoning as the blubber is metabolized. Organizations like the Orca Conservancy (orcaconservancy.org) promote conservation of Pacific Northwest orcas through education, sustainable fishing and habitat protection.
brought in alive, and processed in port. Though king crabs are hardy enough to withstand the crushing pressure of the ocean floor, the catch must be transported with great care; crabs sometimes turn cannibal in captivity, and any that die in the holding tanks can release toxins that may spoil the entire catch. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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USS Seawolf under polar ice cap
RUN SILENT, RUN DEEP Strange are the ways of nature, but stranger things yet lurk in the Pacific’s hidden depths. A few years back, a local sensation arose when residents of Dutch Harbor — a borough of Unalaska, the major population center of the Aleutian Islands — witnessed the unheralded surfacing of a U.S. Navy submarine. Glossy black with lines like a knife in the water, the USS Seawolf breached, incongruously enough, within sight of the town’s landfill. The nuclear-powered vessel had been on a long-term mission in the far North, under the polar ice, before its unexpected diversion to the Aleutians. As it transpired, the Seawolf’s mission
in Dutch Harbor was mundane: two of the crew had been placed on compassionate leave, and rather than recall the sub to its home port in Washington state, the Navy elected to fly replacements into Unalaska. But not all the Navy’s activities in these cold seas are quite so workaday. In the deeps of the Behm Canal, near Ketchikan, whisper-quiet submarines deploy hightech equipment to study the nature of silence itself. The mission of the Southeast Alaska Acoustic Measurement Facility (SEAFAC) is to study and analyze the “acoustic signatures” of submarine engines. The Navy chose to site SEAFAC in the Behm Canal because its waters are some of the quietest in the Pacific.
Sound waves can propagate for many miles in water, and a welter of sonic activity — much of it at frequencies inaudible to the human ear — occurs even in the deep ocean: songs of whales, pings of sonar and fish finders, rumbling of motors. The canal’s location and construction cut it off from most ambient undersea noise. Scientists at SEAFAC measure the acoustic output both of submarines in motion, with engines running, and stationary subs with only life-support functions operating. For these “static” tests, the submarines do not even descend under their own power, but are lowered into the sea by enormous suspension barges. The vehicles hang motionless, cradled on cables strung between two barges, while sophisticated testing arrays collect data on the auditory signature of individual ship systems. Each pump, each cooling fan, each valve sings its own tune, and the researchers of SEAFAC mean to catalog each one. The goals of SEAFAC’s research, of course, are not only to develop better methods to identify vessels from afar, but to find methods for silencing American vessels to avoid precisely this type of identification; to design super-stealthy submarines that can pass undetected even by sophisticated listening devices, that might cruise deep beneath the shipping lanes on top-secret missions with no one in the sunlit world any the wiser. Think on that, as you gaze out at the placid surface, and wonder what goes on underneath.
FEATURE VOYAGE Seabourn Sojourn cruises Kenai Fjord during the 14-DAY ULTIMATE GLACIER & FJORD ADVENTURE sailing Seward to Vancouver, departing on June 18, July 25 and August 31, 2019 46
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LESS STRESS, better life
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SILVER SERPENT Since 1975, John Hardy’s designs have brought Balinese myths brilliantly to life, a tradition the Legends Naga Bracelet upholds today. The sterling silver and diamond pave piece is wrought in the shape of South Asia’s divine water dragon, the naga. Wear it facing outward for spiritual protection or inward to cultivate love and abundance. www.johnhardy.com
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TIMELESS CHEER Drexel Decanters, Set of 2 – While each clear glass decanter in this exquisite set features an understated silhouette, the overall design is elevated by a delicate, antique brass chainmail mesh overlay. Slightly medieval, the design is timeless and food-safe so fill with your favorite libation and add to the collection of decanters on your bar. www.arteriors.com
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Suspended Diamonds set to allow continuous movement, even to your heartbeat.
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RIGHT STUFF
SPARKLE & SHINE APOLLO PLAQUES Invite a little radiance onto your walls with Apollo. These brass foil overlay disks in metallic gold finish can hang alone or group. www.arteriors.com
MELT PENDANT LIGHT The light bouncing and reflecting around the uneven surfaces creates a dramatic melting-hot blown-glass effect. MELT is translucent when on and mirror finish when off. Its internal luminosity is visible in full daylight. At night, it emits an attractive, mildly hallucinogenic light, akin to recent Hubble Telescope images of the cosmos. Available in two sizes in copper, gold and silver. www.tomdixon.com
QUEEN OF SPARKLE If there’s one thing Cherilyn Sarkisian La Piere Bono Allman knows, it’s the art of re-invention. Cher’s got a new album and world tour launching in fall 2018, but the season’s biggest splash for the pop star-turned-TV star-turned-Oscar-winning actress might be The Cher Show opening on Broadway December 3, telling her life story with no less than three leading ladies and, no doubt, a few million sparkling sequins. www.broadway.com
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CUISINES OF THE WORLD
CONNOISSEUR CRUISING FOR LOBSTER HERE’S HOW TO SAMPLE THE BEST OF THE NORTHEAST COAST. by Jan Napier
The eastern seaboard is an ideal setting
and the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence. Over
for a tasting tour. There’s no better place on
320 million pounds are hauled annually
earth to savor the best lobster in the world in
from these cool northern waters, one trap
so many different ways. We’ll go searching
at a time!
for lobster in three Canadian ports and in
For our first stop, brush up your sil vous
Maine, tying on lobster bibs and tucking in
plaits and merci biens, en Français, in the
paper serviettes — or sitting in luxury with
small Canadian city of Gaspé, Quebec.
linen napkins. Either way, our trip promises
Gaspé is your home base for the great beauty
to be delectable.
and diverse landscapes in the surrounding Gaspésie region. At Brise Bise, munch on
AMERICANUS IN QUEBEC What we seek is the lobster prized by chefs the world over, Homarus americanus,
their very popular lobster club sandwich, seafood pizza, nachos with lobster, or whole lobster dinners.
or American lobster. This particular species
Take an outing to popular Percé, one
has a taste, texture and appearance very
of the most beautiful villages in Québec,
different from other varieties like the spiny,
and dine on freshly cooked live lobster at
rock and European lobsters. Most of the
La Maison du Pêcheur. Try the dish with
world’s supply is fished from coastal Nova
award-winning goat cheese sauce, or have
Scotia, the Bay of Fundy, the Gulf of Maine
your lobster dressed with Cointreau sauce,
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Stan Tess / Alamy
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CUISINES OF THE WORLD
or maple syrup-and-seaweed sauce. Watch
crustaceans — it’s only upon cooking
video online of the fisherman and the boat
that they turn that gorgeous, vibrant red.
used to capture your Gaspésie lobster.
Surprised is the fisherman who makes the
Simply reference the numerical tag, affixed
rare discovery of a white, yellow, or electric
to every lobster upon harvesting, and key it
blue lobster; the odds are one in millions.
in at www.monhomard.ca. This trendy sea-
They would most certainly be conserved,
to-fork traceability is très cool!
as would the extraordinary supersized specimens. The world record is 3 1/2 feet long … estimated to be 100 years old!
BENEATH THE SHELL There really is no proper way to tackle a
In walking distance from the cruise
whole lobster. The kitchen will likely simplify
terminal, you’ve got plenty of restaurant
it for you with their presentation. But if not,
choices: Lobster on the Wharf, Steamers
here are some tips. First pull off the tail.
Boat House, Water Prince Restaurant, Row
Set it aside for last because it is the most
House Lobster Co., and all with more than
luscious part. Twist off the two large clawed
just lobster on the menu. Dave’s Lobster
legs. Using a nut- or lobster-cracker, break
boasts the ultimate lobster roll, served in
them open. Fish out the meat with a lobster
sizes to suit everyone.
pick. Using your thumbs, pull the back shell away from what lies within. If you find waxy
MAINE’S ATTRACTION CRUSTACEANS FOR CONNOISSEURS
Finally, we reach the shores of New England.
red roe, considered the lobster caviar, then
In Nova Scotia, Halifax Harbour is one of
In the United States, Homarus americanus
you must have a female, a bonus indeed.
the world’s deepest. Enjoy a stroll along the
is most plentiful off the coast of Maine.
The greenish tomalley is also considered a
bustling boardwalk and beyond. Activities and
Restaurants across the nation are proud to put
delicacy. Enjoy! Pull off the eight walking
adventure are merely steps away, and lobster
Maine lobster on their menus and you’re close
legs and carefully pick out the tiny succulent
opportunities abound.
to the salty source here.
morsels left where they attached to the
Rachael Sheppard, owner of Local Tasting
Bar Harbor, on Mount Desert Island, is the
body. Using your front teeth from end to
Tours, recommends Tempo restaurant for
gateway to idyllic Acadia National Park with
end, coax the meat out of these little legs.
“exactly the kind of Nova Scotia flavor guests
its lively landscape of mountains, cliffs, and
Finally, insert a fork, tines down, under the
are looking for.” She enthuses knowingly: “A
many miles of shoreline and hiking trails.
shell on the bottom side of the tail. Push the
summer lobster is meant to be relished! Shells
Try Stewman’s Lobster Pound’s downtown
tines down and towards yourself and easily
cracked, butter dripping down chins, bibs tied
location, with multiple lobster menu items. Or,
remove the tail meat. You did it!
tight! It’s a joyful experience to be shared with
take a short visit to nearby Southwest Harbor
your favourite people. People you don’t mind
and visit an authentic lobster “shack,” Beal’s
getting a little messy with.”
Lobster Pier. In this casual but picturesque
COLORFUL AND CANADIAN Next is Charlottetown, Prince Edward
For gourmet gastronomy that brings out
Island, home of the International Shellfish
lobster’s best qualities in featured entrées, try
Festival. A Top Notch lobster tour of
dining at daMaurizio. Plates like gnocchi with
As we complete our tour, you may be
Charlottetown Harbor* takes visitors out in
lobster tail, or veal scallopini with lobster, are
craving just one more delectable bite.
an authentic fishing boat, giving experiential
sure to satisfy the discerning palate.
Well, fret not, because you can have live or
setting, you have a multitude of choices on how you’d like your lobster served.
lessons in the finer points of lobster fishing,
The long-serving Five Fisherman offers
cooked lobster delivered right to your door
and the conservation measures used to
classic lobster dinners, or lobster pot pie. Sit
from a wholesaler like shop.clearwater.
guarantee future catches. Out on the
seaside at Salty’s for lobster tempura, surf
ca by ordering online. Wherever you
water, one can learn to check the bottom
and turf, chowder, and freshly boiled lobster
are, impress your family and friends with
of the harbor with sonar, and can even
in the size of your choice. McKelvies dishes
a classic feast or a creative entrée using
haul in a trap full of the brownish/greenish
up a well-loved lobster poutine.
lobster, the king of seafood.
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Steamed lobster over pasta
Clockwise from top left: Jan Napier; Skip Anderson; Jan Napier (3)
Lobster salad lettuce wraps
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CLUB PICKS
FOUR PREEMINENT JOURNEYS AN INSIDER’S LOOK AT UPCOMING VOYAGES Reflect on PERPETUAL magnificence.
it Po Icy Stra
Juneau Arm/ Tracy
int
t Arm Endicot
Inian Islands
ell Wrang rd Bay Rudye s
Sitka
Gulf of Alaska
Ketchi
rd Misty Fjo
Ruper t Prince ess Royal Princ l
kan
Channe
le Grenvil l Channe
Klemtu lla Bella Be ay Aler t B VA NCO
ne Johnsto Strait
Pacific Ocean
U VE R
Alaska was named “the Great Land” because it seems endless. Whether the First Nations heritage embodied in Ketchikan’s Totem Bight State Park, the Russian history that lives on in Sitka, or the mighty Mendenhall Glacier grinding ever so slowly toward the sea, the land and its people continue to persevere. Bears still gather at Wrangell, and virgin forest still crowds the granite slopes of the Misty Fjords. And beyond Alert Bay, the ocean moves imperturbably through Seymour Narrows as it always has, endlessly illustrating the beauty of endurance. Seabourn Sojourn 12-day round-trip Vancouver voyages on July 2, August 8, September 14 & 26, 2019
Appreciate this PRIMORDIAL beauty.
La Jo BA RC
ino Portof ovener e Port o Livorn
Car lo Monte A ntibes ez op Tr . St liette Bando
ELON A
Pa la m
ós
Bastia
l
Civitave
cchia
rranean Medite a Se
Mahón lorca de Mal
Pa lma
The stone talaiots of Mahon stand sentinel over Menorca’s ancient settlements, while outside Marseille, archaic paintings still decorate the caves of the Calanques. The Mediterranean coast has always inspired an urge to create — whether in the “Golfo dei Poeti” that inspired Dante, Petrarch, Byron and Shelley in Portovenere; the marble architecture of the Eternal City of Rome; the Etruscan stronghold of Fiesole outside Livorno; or the Spanish town of Palamos, where visionary artist Salvador Dali defined new ways of seeing. Seabourn Encore 14-day round-trip Barcelona voyages on August 15 & September 19, 2019
Behold the world’s PRISTINE wilderness. Gulf of ce en St. Lawr Saguen
Saguen
Q uébe
MONTR
uxCap -a s Meule
ay Fjord
ay
c City
Cha rlo
ttetow
n
Bar r Har bo
ÉA L
Halifa x Atlantic Ocean
BOSTO
N
Pr
tow ovince
n
The stone bridges of Acadia National Park in Bar Harbor, the light of Peggy’s Cove in Halifax, the red rock of Charlottetown’s North Cape, the wind-carved coastline of Iles de la Madeleine — all serve as reminders of our place in the world. Autumn unleashes a riot of color in the Laurentian forest of Saguenay, and passing pods of whales in the Gulf of St. Lawrence offer powerful perspective. As you approach the lights of Montreal, you’ll find that nature’s rule is boundless in the forest of the far Northeast. Seabourn Quest 11-day Boston to Montréal voyages on September 10 & October 14, 2019
Ease into PROFOUND experience. Oslofjor
d
Oslo st ad Fr edrik
North Sea
Fr eder
DUBLI
ør Helsing AG EN NH COPE münde War ne ünde Tr avem
nal Kiel Ca
N
Dunmor Ea st
icia
e
am Rot terd p A nt wer
Standing on the century-old White Water Tower of Fredericia, Denmark — looking past the medieval Old Town to the glacier-carved Lillebælt — one senses the passage of time. Sailing up Oslofjord, one grows to understand the rough poetry of the Viking way. Down the Baltic coast, the maritime city of Helsingor brings inescapable comparisons with Hamlet’s Elsinore. And passing under the nine bridges of the Kiel Canal, one enters new, visionary worlds: the windmills of Kinderdijk, the mural-decorated Comic Book Route of Brussels and even the illuminated Book of Kells at Dublin’s Trinity College. Seabourn Ovation 14-day Copenhagen to Dublin voyage on August 31, 2019
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PERPETUAL ALASKA
PRIMORDIAL FRANCE
SAVOR
MUMBAI
PRISTINE
HALIFAX
PROFOUND
Clockwise from top left: Seabourn; eStock (2); Ingram Image
NETHERLANDS
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Clockwise: Avalon / World Pictures / Alamy; HERMESMEREGHETTISTUDIO / Alamy; imageBROKER / Alamy; Sergiy Palamarchuk / Alamy
GRAPES &GRAINS
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OUZO, SAMBUCA, PASTIS AND ARAK
WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL THEM, ANISE APERITIFS ARE THE FLAVOR OF SOUTHERN EUROPE, AND A KEY TO ENJOYING MEDITERRANEAN MEALS. By Stephen Grasso
Let’s start with the flavor.
The origin of the name “ouzo” is frequently disputed. One
Anise is the seed of the herb Pimpinella anisum, which was
story claims that the silk merchants of Tyrnavos tasted the spirit and
first cultivated in Egypt and the Middle East, and later brought
exclaimed that it was as good as “uso Massalias,” the high-end silk
to Europe for its medicinal value. In traditional European herbal
sold at the markets in Marseille. The term spread by word of mouth
medicine, anise is renowned for its stomach-settling properties.
until the local variation of tsipouro became known simply as ouzo.
Pliny the Elder regarded it as a cure for sleeplessness and a
However, other sources argue that its name derives from the Turkish
remedy for asp caterpillar bites, and in Ancient Rome, anise-
word üzüm, meaning “grape.”
spiced cakes called mustaceoe were served at the end of great
Like traditional tsipouro, ouzo is traditionally served diluted
feasts as a digestive. The tradition of serving cake at the end of
with water as an accompaniment to food such as octopus, sardines,
a wedding is thought to derive from this ancient confectionary
calamari, feta cheese, olives and clams. In its undiluted form, ouzo
use of anise.
is a clear liquid, but when it’s mixed with water it becomes a cloudy,
Anise is found throughout the Mediterranean, and
milky white. This is because the essential oil of anise is completely
practically every culture in the region has its own unique spirit
soluble in alcohol, but not in water, which causes it to separate in
flavored with anise.
a process called “louching.” This is also known as the “ouzo effect” and is common to all anise-based spirits.
OUZO ORIGINS One of the earliest anise-flavored spirits is tsipouro, a
SAMBUCA SUPERB
pomace brandy originating in Greece and popular in the regions
Italy’s version of the drink is sambuca, which differs from
of Thessaly, Macedonia and the island of Crete. Tsipouro is
other variations of anise spirit because it is sweetened after
produced from the residue of the wine press and was first made
distillation. Other spices are also added, notably elderflower,
by Greek Orthodox monks on Mount Athos in Macedonia in
and the name sambuca itself is thought to derive from the Latin
the 14th century. It’s served over ice or diluted with water, and
word sambucus, which means “elderberry.” The drink first
frequently accompanied by meze — small dishes of cheese, olives,
debuted in commercial form in 1800 in Civitavecchia, when
seafood, meat, nuts and dried fruit. In October 2006, Greece
Luigi Manzi bottled Sambuca Manzi. The spirit’s popularity
was granted the right to label the spirits tsipouro, tsikoudia and
increased following the Second World War, and it became
ouzo as products with a Protected Designation of Origin, which
widely available throughout Italy.
prevents European countries other than Greece and Cyprus to create similar spirits using those names.
Sambuca is normally a colorless liquid, but there are variations such as black sambuca and red sambuca. It’s often drunk with coffee
Ouzo is a direct descendent of tsipouro, and its production
or added directly to coffee to make a caffè corretto. Sambuca is also
began in the early 19th century following Greek independence.
traditionally served neat in a shot glass containing coffee beans. One
The first ouzo distillery was founded in Tyrnavos by Nikolaos
bean in the glass is called con la mosca, which means “with the
Katsaros in 1856.
fly.” Three coffee beans symbolize health, happiness and prosperity.
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GRAPES &GRAINS
Seven coffee beans represent the seven hills
EXQUISITE ARAK
anísado and herbs de Majorca from Spain;
of Rome. The shot of sambuca is often set
Arak or araq is the traditional anise-
mastika from Bulgaria; raki from Turkey
on fire to toast the coffee beans, with the
flavored alcoholic drink of the Middle
and Armenia; and Anisette Cristal from
flame put out before drinking.
East, and is especially popular in the
Algeria — not to mention varieties from
Levant, Iran and Turkey. It is the strongest
further afield like the anis najar, aguardiente
PASTIS PERFECT
of the anise spirits at 50 percent alcohol,
and fermented-honey xtabentún of Latin
France’s version of the ubiquitous
and is mixed to proportions of one-third
America. Each has its own character, but
Mediterranean anise-flavored spirit is called
arak to two-thirds water in an Eastern
retains a flavorful connection with the
pastis, and the first commercial version was
Mediterranean water vessel called an
essence of ouzo, pastis, sambuca and arak.
bottled by Paul Ricard in 1932. Absinthe
abarīk before being poured into small,
had been banned in France some 17 years
ice-filled cups. The clear liquid undergoes
earlier, after a moral panic over the strong
the “ouzo effect” and turns cloudy white
spirit and the potency of its wormwood
in color at the addition of water.
content.
more
Arak is typically served with mezza,
acceptable substitute for the outlawed spirit
Pastis
emerged
as
a
and complements many traditional Middle
with a similar anise flavor profile.
Eastern flavors. The Lebanese have a folk
Pastis is strongly associated with the
belief that one drink of arak will double the
south of France, particularly Marseille,
potency of anything drunk after it, but only
where it’s sometimes used in the recipe
if it’s consumed without food. This introduction to anise liqueurs is
As a refreshing drink, it’s served cold and
by no means exhaustive. Other regional
typically diluted by at least five parts of
variations of anise-flavored spirit include
water to one part of pastis.
anisette from France; Anís del Mono,
Tzogia Kappatou / Alamy
for the region’s bouillabaisse fish stew.
IT’S SERVED OVER ICE OR DILUTED WITH WATER, AND FREQUENTLY ACCOMPANIED BY MEZE – SMALL DISHES OF CHEESE, OLIVES, SEAFOOD, MEAT, NUTS AND DRIED FRUIT.
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UNCORKED
ANISE SPIRITS OLD AND NEW
THE LATEST DISTILLERS PROVE THE TRADITIONS BEHIND OUZO AND PASTIS HAVE DEEP ROOTS — ONES THAT CAN GROW IN DELICIOUS NEW DIRECTIONS. By Stephen Grasso
OUZO, FIRST AND LAST
PASTIS BEYOND PROVENCE
In the mid-19th century, Nikolaos Katsaros
In 2011, distillers Piero Nuvoloni-Bonnet
was given a copper still by relatives and used
and Enrico Giordana of the Argalà liquorificio
it to learn the secrets of distillation and create
made history by producing the first Italian
the first ouzo. By 1889, the year of the Fourth
artisanal pastis. Nuvoloni-Bonnet had grown
Zappeian Olympiad, his ouzo had become an
up around the spirit as he spent his summer
award-winning drink recognized throughout
holidays staying with his great-grandfather
Greece, and by 1931 it was exported as
in Grenoble, France, who would often enjoy
widely as France, Egypt and America.
the essentially French spirit after a visit to
The original recipe for Ouzo Katsaros,
the market. Meanwhile, his friend Giordana
made from 14 different herbs and seeds,
had inherited the Giordana di Roccavione
was handed down through four generations
Distillery, a classical spirits manufactory
of the Katsaros family and is still used to this
which had been founded by his grandfather
day. Katsaros Distillery is the oldest distillery
but closed shortly before his birth.
of ouzo in the world, and is now located
Together, the two childhood friends
in a privately owned, 64,500-square-foot
envisioned a pastis made the old fashioned
facility with a production capacity of 2,000
way,
bottles per hour.
ingredients locally sourced from the Occitan
with
no
shortcuts,
and
using
valleys. In the Occitan dialect, argalà means a deep satisfaction, and that’s what the two distillers sought to deliver with their pastis made with 35 ingredients including cinnamon, pepper and cloves. Its taste is drier than many other pastis, which means it lends itself well to cocktails, as well as the traditional one part pastis to five parts water dilution — and, of course, it’s a perfect complement to Mediterranean appetizers
Katsaros Distillery
such as olives, cheese and seafood.
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MINDFUL LIVING
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Which brings us to forest therapy. The concept is simple. Since most of our evolution happened in green, wild places instead of modern cities full of buildings, cars and computer screens, spending time in the woods agrees with our ancient mental
NATURE THERAPY AND YOU TIME SPENT IN WILD ENVIRONMENTS HAS BENEFITS FOR YOUR BODY AND YOUR MIND. DR. ANDREW WEIL
W
hat causes illness? At one level, the answers are quite varied — viruses,
bacteria, stress, poor nutrition, lack of exercise, poor immune function and
and sensory circuitry — and so can make us happier and healthier. Of course, anyone can head off into the woods independently to reap this benefit. An intuitive sense that we need wilderness is probably what sends 37 million American households camping each year. But a formal therapeutic practice of regaining health in the forest — complete with studies to measure health effects — began in Japan in the 1980s. The practice there is called shinrin-yoku, which roughly translates to “taking in the forest atmosphere” or “forest bathing.”
SPENDING TIME IN THE WOODS AGREES WITH OUR ANCIENT MENTAL AND SENSORY CIRCUITRY.
many more. But from a wider perspective, I believe that a great deal of modern illness, both
Research suggests that benefits include: •
physical and mental, is due to a single
with an increase in the count of the
cause that biologists call evolutionary
body’s natural killer (NK) cells
mismatch. This means that a human or
•
Reduced blood pressure
animal that evolved helpful traits in a
•
Reduced stress
given environment can find those same
•
Improved mood
traits unhealthful — even deadly — in a
•
Increased ability to focus, even in
radically different environment. gilaxia / Getty Images
Boosted immune system functioning,
Fortunately, if we understand this, we
children with ADHD •
can try to spend time in environments that
Accelerated recovery from surgery or illness
match the mental and physical tendencies
•
Increased energy levels
we retain from our distant ancestors.
•
Improved sleep SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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MINDFUL LIVING
Achieving these need not take long — one study showed looking at forest scenery for just 20 minutes significantly lowered saliva concentrations of the stress hormone cortisol. Organized forest therapy has come to this country through the U.S. Association of Nature and Forest Therapy Guides and Programs, founded in 2012. The group trains forest therapy guides, and is establishing programs nationwide. A typical session in the U.S. lasts roughly three hours, but covers no more than a mile. This makes the experience accessible to a wide range of people. Those who are not physically fit are encouraged to go slowly and breathe deeply. Of course, forests aren’t the only natural environments. Gazing at the ocean — no doubt an ancient human practice — appears to offer healing power as well. RF / PPI
A study at the University of Exeter looked at how natural water environments can boost physical and mental health. Researchers examined census data in
seashore. But the study found that health
I’m sure is as real as our needs for love,
England and found that people who lived
benefits were greatest for poor communities
food, sex and community.
closer to the coast reported better health.
near the beach, especially compared to
This might seem like a “wealth effect” of
equally poor communities inland.
The right way to let nature into your life depends upon you. People who
the homes of rich people — who tend to be
Beyond forests and oceans, the list of
healthier than poor ones — clustering at the
healing natural environments is endless.
organized
Personally, I find the desert uplifting. You can
appropriate. If you are among them, visit
benefit from nature therapy in many places.
natureandforesttherapy.org and click the
GAZING AT THE OCEAN — NO DOUBT AN ANCIENT HUMAN PRACTICE — APPEARS TO OFFER HEALING POWER AS WELL.
64
In my book, Spontaneous Happiness,
like groups and guidance may find an forest
therapy
experience
“Get Started” tab.
I wrote at length about the importance
If you are more of an independent
of regularly spending time in natural
sort, be creative. Those recovering from
environments — and resisting the urge to
extreme stress may need two weeks in a
bring our glowing, beeping, nagging gadgets
tent in the woods. For others, the simple
along. Biologist E.O. Wilson coined the
act of taking a long walk outdoors after
term biophilia, which means “love of life
dinner rather than staring at a TV screen
or living systems.” It’s a lovely word that
can work wonders. Just let nature into
describes an innate human need, one that
your life in any way that works for you.
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QUESTIONS: Call Kathleen Pendergast 214-891-2918
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I spent the day soaking up the sun. And at night, I shined.
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SEE HEAR DO
SEABOURN RECOMMENDS: FOR YOUR DOWN TIME...
NOTHING GOOD CAN COME FROM THIS BY KRISTI COULTER
SEE
SAINT BARTH BY SEMI-SUBMARINE
Gain new perspective on the Caribbean from above and below the waves aboard an unusual vessel — a semi-submarine touring the Réserve Naturelle de Saint-Barthélemy. From the top deck, one can enjoy Caribbean breezes. Down below, large underwater windows reveal a marine park packed with underwater flora and fauna. The semi-sub sails over the coralencrusted Marignan, a 50-foot island freighter that sank during Hurricane Luis in 1995, before cruising past the Gros Ilets reef, filled with schools of striped sergeant majors, swaying sea fans and colorful coral heads.
You might not expect writing about sobriety to be funny, but there are few more pleasant surprises than Kristi Coulter’s debut essay collection — a sharp-witted look at her own life and an uncensored appraisal of a society where wine so often becomes the ultimate excuse for everything. Like the best of David Sedaris and Nora McInerny, Coulter manages to illuminate some dark moments with a light touch. Describing her college years, Coulter recalls: “I started to see that there was art and food and even colors to match not just the big emotions like love and grief but their small adjacencies.” Coulter has proved her ability as a curator of small adjacencies, and we readers are all a bit better off for that.
RF Ingram Image
DO
SNOWMELT BY ZOË KEATING
Zoë Keating, the one-woman cello orchestra, is thawing out. Her new EP is the first solo studio work she’s produced since the shock of her husband’s sickness and death, and is filled with a faint, persistent warmth. As in her previous recordings, she constructs songs by playing her single cello into a laptop, then looping and treating the sounds on the fly, accompanying her own playing with new harmonic lines and rhythmic counterpoints that become nothing short of haunting. The pas de deux of “Icefloe” is mesmerizing. The song “Nix” — based on a pun in Kepler’s diaries between Latin nix, “snowflake,” and Low German nix, “nothing” — incorporates her son’s chimes into a crystalline piece that’s on the verge of vanishing into vapor itself, yet still manages to build into an exultant, masterful climax.
HEAR
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GUESTS’ GALLERY
THE VIEW FROM HERE
MEMORIES SEABOURN CLUB MEMBERS HAVE TAKEN HOME WITH THEM FROM THEIR OPTIONAL VENTURES BY SEABOURN™ EXCURSIONS
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1 Pulpit Rock, Norway by
2 Gentoo penguin in Antarctica
@lucas_gdos
by
@tktravelgram
3 Otter in Alaska by
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@Joe.Cockram
If you have great snapshots of your cruise, share them with us! Send high-resolution photos to:
photos@seabourn.com or share via: or
Twitter (@SeabournCruise),
(SeabournCruise)
Facebook (facebook.com/seabourn). SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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MILANO DIAMOND GALLERY AND OUR BRAND PARTNERS
Welcomes
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Seabourn to the Caribbean!
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TA N Z A N I T E D R E A M S C O
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Visit any of our locations for VIP pricing and service.
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Brandon Payne / Ventures by Seabourn™ Excursion Team
VIEWFINDER
ILULISSAT, GREENLAND Seabourn Expedition Team member Brandon Payne snapped this photo of a small group of travelers approaching some humpback whales in the icy waters off Ilulissat, Greenland. The region is home to many kinds of whales, including humpbacks, minkes, bowheads and fin whales — the second-largest species on Earth after the blue whale. Ilulissat Icefjord is on UNESCO’s World Heritage List as the sea mouth of Sermeq Kujalleq, one of the world’s fastest-moving glaciers, which produces more icebergs than any ice sheet outside Antarctica.
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