Seabourn Club Herald 29.1 by ppigroup

HERALD A SEABOURN CLUB PUBLICATION | VOLUME 29 NUMBER 1

DANCES OF INDIA CHILEAN IMAGES | MONACO MONARCHY | BALI BLISS

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Long after we returned from paradise, I still see its shimmer ref lected on me.

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CONTRIBUTORS

HERALD Bill Panoff PUBLISHER Linda Douthat ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR Grant Balfour, Phillip Crandall MANAGING EDITORS Chanel Samson COPY EDITOR Skip Anderson, Caroline Geertz ART DIRECTORS Laura Roche SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Maria Baro PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Tammy Robinson PRODUCTION MANAGER Alexandria Geubelle CREATIVE ASSISTANT

STEPHEN

KEVIN

JD Andrews, Alex Darlington, Stephen Grasso, Kevin Revolinski, Chanel Samson, Kate Wickers CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Deb Bottcher PROOFREADER Alamy, AWL Images, eStock, Getty Images, Ingram Images, Superstock CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS © Maurizio Rellini / SIME / eStock Photo COVER PHOTO Π CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS: PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 • Fax: (954) 377-7000 Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com • Website: www.ppigroup.com

CHANEL

KATE

For advertising information, contact sales@ppigroup.com Sharon Cherry VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND SALES AND DEVELOPMENT Brett Grady DIRECTOR, GLOBAL SALES

A video producer for more than 20 years, JD ANDREWS has traversed 93 countries across seven continents. He has captured travel experiences for a variety of channels and companies including cruise lines, airlines, destination marketing organizations and tourist boards.

Iris Rodriguez DIRECTOR, SALES AMERICAS Richard Collins REGIONAL SALES MANAGER

Bill Panoff PRESIDENT/CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

STEPHEN GRASSO is a freelance writer and world traveler currently based in Hialeah, Florida, previously from London, UK, and originally from Newcastle. He writes about music, film and culture, and is working on his first novel.

Audrey Balbiers-Panoff CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jose I. Martin CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Linda Douthat SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHING Piero Vitale SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, CORPORATE STRATEGY & FINANCIAL PLANNING Christina Hunting VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL MARKETING

KEVIN REVOLINSKI has lived abroad in Italy, Panama and Guatemala, writing for Rough Guide guidebooks, Caribbean Travel & Life, Chicago Tribune and Wisconsin State Journal, as well as a memoir, The Yogurt Man Cometh: Tales of an American Teacher in Turkey. CHANEL SAMSON took her first trip when she was in the womb, aboard the cruise ship her parents met on. Since then, her hereditary travel bug has taken her all over the Caribbean, parts of Asia and Europe, and all 11 countries at Epcot. Her work has appeared in Porthole Cruise Magazine, HerCampus.com and a handful of literary publications. She is currently working on a more expansive writer’s bio. KATE WICKERS is a world traveler who writes for many British and international publications, including The Independent, The Daily Mail, The Scotsman, Traveller and Islands.

Soren Domlesky DIRECTOR OF TECHNOLOGY Patti Lankford EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE CEO Please address all correspondence to Herald c/o PPI Group Corporate Headquarters.

©2019 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Seabourn Club Herald is published under contract to PPI Group. The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to editorial@ppigroup.com. Commentary and opinions expressed in Seabourn Club Herald are not necessarily those of the publisher, and the Seabourn Cruise Line and PPI Group are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Seabourn Club Herald. Seabourn may share some of your profile information with our affiliated companies, which comprise the World’s Leading Cruise Lines. You may limit our affiliated companies from marketing their products to you based on the information that we collect and share with them. Your choice to limit marketing offers from our affiliates will apply until you tell us otherwise. You may request that your information not be used in marketing efforts of our affiliates by contacting us at privacy@seabourn.com or Seabourn Cruise Line, Attn. Affiliate OptOut, 450 Third Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119. For cruise reservations, call your travel agent or call Seabourn at (800) 929-9391.

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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HERALD 29.1

28 44

Clockwise from top left: PARAMOUNT PICTURES / Album / Alamy Stock Photo; © Richard Taylor / SIME / eStock Photo; JD Andrews; Indiapicture / Alamy Stock Photo

in this issue

FEATURES

ANCES OF INDIA 20 DOne can map out India’s complex cultural

geography one step at a time — in dance.

By Chanel Samson

BLISS IN BALI 28 Is an Eat Pray Love experience open to anyone

who visits this Indonesian island?

By Kate Wickers

THE HOUSE OF GRIMALDI

What’s behind Monaco’s curious coat of arms? And are there clues hidden within it that reveal an ancient curse?

By Alex Darlington

44 08

CHILE

Photos reveal what makes this stunning country the star attraction of South America’s Pacific Coast.

By JD Andrews

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

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58 12 A LETTER TO CLUB MEMBERS from Richard Meadows DEPARTMENTS

14 BEHIND THE SHIELD 58 CUISINES OF THE WORLD Did you know?

16 ON THE HORIZON The latest news from Seabourn

FIVE CURRIES

This cuisine is a mainstay of India — but has traveled all over the world, transforming itself in every destination. By Kevin Revolinski

CLUB PICKS 50 RIGHT STUFF 62 FOUR SELECT JOURNEYS Fine things to want

An insider’s look at upcoming voyages

52 GRAPES & GRAINS 64 MINDFUL LIVING IN THE CLEAR

A journey beyond the “vodka belt” reveals a spirited world of designer distilleries. By Stephen Grasso

ACUPUNCTURE — THE HEALING POINT

Here’s how Traditional Chinese Medicine eases pain and boosts immunity with painless pinpricks. By Dr. Andrew Weil

56 UNCORKED 68 SEE/HEAR/DO MILK VODKA MAGIC

The makers of Black Cow Vodka brought a traditional Siberian spirit to an English dairy farm. And the refined result is anything but cheesy. By Stephen Grasso

Seabourn suggests how to spend your down time.

70 GUESTS’ GALLERY

Memories Seabourn Club members have taken home with them.

72 VIEWFINDER Antarctica

Top to bottom: Stuart Burford / Alamy Stock Photo; Ulrich Schade / Alamy Stock Photo

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SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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A WORD FROM OUR PRESIDENT

DEAR SEABOURN CLUB MEMBER,

elcome to your first Seabourn Club Herald of 2019. As they do every year at this time, our five ultra-luxury resorts at sea are carrying guests on their exciting annual springtime migrations — following the sun to the bountiful summer season in the Northern Hemisphere. Seabourn Odyssey is basking for a bit among sunlit Caribbean isles, preparing for a gala trans-Atlantic crossing to begin her Mediterranean season. Seabourn Sojourn is sailing from Africa to spend her springtime in Asia, before crossing from Japan to start another glorious season in Alaska and British Columbia. Seabourn Quest is cruising the colorful colonial coast of Brazil to explore the Amazon Basin with her onboard Ventures by Seabourn team. Both Seabourn Encore and Seabourn Ovation are retracing the ancient trade routes for silks, spices and gems that run along India’s Malabar Coast, through the Arabian and Red Seas, and into the Mediterranean. Likewise, our feature articles in this issue span the globe. A handsome photo essay on Chile invites you to feast your eyes on one of the world’s most scenic countries, which never fails to enchant and amaze us. Chanel Samson takes us on a colorful, step-by-step cultural tour of the Indian subcontinent, as reflected in the variety of classical and folk dances practiced in different regions. Kate Wickers recounts her own transformative Eat Pray Love experiences in bewitching Bali, and Alex Darlington shares the long and sometimes tumultuous history of the Monaco’s royal family, the Grimaldis. For his part, Dr. Andrew Weil provides us with some pinpoint analysis of the ancient and increasingly popular therapeutic procedure of acupuncture. As always, this issue offers news and updates from across the fleet and around the world, including information about Seabourn’s pair of new, purpose-built, ultra-luxury expedition ships, and even news about the name we have chosen for the first one. We also share the news that the super-endurance athlete, explorer and motivational speaker Colin O’Brady will be a special Seabourn Conversations guest on next season’s first Antarctica voyage on Seabourn Quest, departing from San Antonio (Santiago), Chile, on November 28, 2019. If you’ve been thinking about cruising to Antarctica, this would be a great sailing to join. We hope you’ll enjoy this edition of the Seabourn Club Herald, and that we may look forward to welcoming you back on board soon. Sincerely,

Richard Meadows President

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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BEHIND THE SHIELD

ANTARCTICA

ABU DHABI

VIETNAM

INDONESIA

YOUR WINDOWS ON THE WORLD

A HERALD COLLECTION OF HAND-PICKED DESTINATIONS In this issue, we highlight four voyages to exotic regions corresponding to destinations featured in this

Thailand & Vietnam – Seabourn Ovation 14 days, Singapore to Hong Kong – Dec. 21, 2019

Seabourn Club Herald. These itineraries all depart

The holiday departure of this popular itinerary offers a

during the last quarter of 2019 and the first part of 2020,

taste of the Thai curry highlighted in Kevin Revolinski’s

sailing in either the warmth of the tropics or, in one case,

“Five Curries” piece in this issue’s Cuisines of the World.

in the extreme Southern Hemisphere during austral

If you arrive in Singapore ahead of departure, you’ll find

summer. These are popular destinations with Seabourn

some Indian curries and local Straits variations in the

Club members, offering an impressive variety of scenic

city’s famous “Hawker Centres.” Your call at Bangkok will

natural beauty, historic interest and fascinating cultural

offer a variety

diversity. Be sure to read the corresponding articles to

of red, yellow

discover what intrigued our guest authors about these

and green Thai

places. But you’ll doubtless find your own reasons to go

versions. Save

and see them for yourself.

room for the lavish Caviar in

Pearls of Arabia & India – Seabourn Ovation 19 days, Dubai to Singapore – Dec. 2, 2019 Chanel Samson’s article on the dance traditions of

the Surf beach barbecue laid out by your

FOUR VOYAGES TO EXOTIC REGIONS

India is a perfect lead-in to this in-depth exploration of

ship’s

venerable trade routes in South Asia. The ancient Arabian

at lovely Ko

cities of Khor Fakkan and Muscat on Oman’s mountainous

Kood Island on

east coast will lead up to four different Indian ports: two

Christmas Day. Cambodian and Vietnamese cuisine are

days at spectacular Mumbai, Cochin with its multicultural

delights unto themselves, and your overnight stay in Ho

colonial past, and maiden calls at Chennai (formerly

Chi Minh City offers easy access to old Saigon and the

Madras) and Karaikal on the Bay of Bengal. Trincomalee

“Rice Bowl” of the Mekong Delta. Da Nang and ethereal

on verdant Sri Lanka and the tiny outpost of Sabang on

Halong Bay are fitting climaxes to the voyage before

Pulau Weh precede the amazing merlion city-state of

your entry into glittering Hong Kong Harbour, ringed by

Singapore, one of Asia’s most fascinating metropolises.

forested peaks and shining glass towers. Seabourn (5)

staff

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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THESE ARE POPULAR DESTINATIONS WITH SEABOURN CLUB MEMBERS, OFFERING AN IMPRESSIVE VARIETY OF SCENIC NATURAL BEAUTY, HISTORIC INTEREST AND FASCINATING CULTURAL DIVERSITY. Orchid Isles Escape – Seabourn Encore 7 days, Singapore to Benoa (Denpasar) – Nov. 27, 2019 Our shortest Asian option is a fascinating Indonesian pilgrimage to the idyllic isle described in Kate Wickers’ article about her own sensual and spiritual renewal on enchanting Bali. Departing the towers and gardens of Singapore, you’ll explore the long, lush island of Java from end to end. From bustling Semarang, visit the UNESCO World Heritage Buddhist monument of Borobudur, ringed by jungle and volcanoes. Then, call at Surabaya, rich in Dutch colonial architecture and the exotic trade of the Java Sea. Probolinggo on Java’s wild eastern end offers natural splendors including the volcanic moonscapes of towering Mount Bromo. Celukan Bawang begins your Bali experience as the gateway to an old Dutch colonial capital or to traditional crafts villages in the highlands. Your Bali voyage ends in Benoa, near the Balinese capital of Denpasar.

Ultimate Antarctica & Patagonia – Seabourn Quest 21 days, Santiago (San Antonio) to Buenos Aires – Nov. 28, 2019; Jan. 12 and Feb. 23, 2020 No Seabourn voyage anywhere earns higher ratings than our ultra-luxury voyage to the White Continent. Chile’s breathtaking lakes and volcanoes, the dramatic peaks of Torres del Paine rising from the pampas, and the spectacular scenery of the Chilean fjords and Glacier Alley are featured in a photo essay elsewhere in this magazine. But according to those who have been there, no pictures nor words can adequately describe the experience of cruising in Antarctica. You’ll enjoy daily Zodiac landings and endless hours of watching whales, seals, penguins and other wildlife in an untouched paradise, all while cosseted in the ultra-

CHILE

luxury elegance of a floating Seabourn resort.

SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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ON THE HORIZON

SEABOURN’S NEW EXPEDITION SHIPS EXCLUSIVE PRE-BOOKING FOR CLUB MEMBERS

wo new ultra-luxury expedition ships are joining the Seabourn fleet. The new ships’ innovative ultra-luxury design is created specifically to enable expedition travelers to explore the most remote and unspoiled regions on earth, while still enjoying the intuitive service and indulgent amenities that have made Seabourn ships the choice for even the most discerning travelers. The first ship, to be named Seabourn Venture, will be delivered in June 2021 the second sister-ship will follow in May 2022. Each intimate, 170-meter, 23,000 grt vessel will feature 132 luxuriously appointed, oceanfront veranda suites, inviting up to 264 guests to travel in Seabourn style to the world’s most coveted remote destinations, or explore more familiar destinations in entirely new ways.

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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SEABOURN EXPEDITION DIFFERENCES •

Purpose-built expedition ships, PC6 ice-strengthened hull, with advanced maneuvering technology for superior stability, safety and comfort

•

World-class Expedition Team, delivering immersive experiences

•

Handcrafted itineraries developed for the expedition traveler to the most coveted and familiar remote destinations in the world

•

Two custom-built six-guest submarines giving the option to extend your expedition further for greater ocean exploration

•

Enhanced expedition experiences with Zodiacs, mountain and ebikes, scuba diving, snorkeling and optional kayaks

•

Open bridge policy*, hosted by members of the Expedition Team providing firsthand access to the ship’s command center and officers navigating your journey

•

Meticulous and purposeful adventurers’ resort at sea designed for the luxury traveler with unique attributes and spaces to enhance your experience

•

All veranda, all ocean-front suites luxuriously appointed

Seabourn (4)

*At the captain’s discretion

Seabourn’s award-winning hospitality staff will be augmented by outstanding and well-traveled expedition teams consisting of experienced wilderness experts, scientists, historians and naturalists. During each sailing, team members provide in-depth insights into the history, ecology and culture of the places we visit as part of the Seabourn Conversations program, both in formal presentations and in more casual conversations over meals or at leisure. Specific details about itineraries and booking availability will be released soon. The first ship is currently planned to sail in the Arctic in late summer 2021, with a summer season in Antarctica and the Amazon to follow. Don’t miss this chance to be among the first to experience these amazing ships and voyages. Contact your travel advisor or call Seabourn today.

SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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Dances of One can map out India’s complex cultural geography one step at a time — in dance. by Chanel Samson

India

ndia is a land of diversity. Each region has its own culture, where spirituality, tradition and geography intersect. Before the silver screens of Bollywood, dance was the only medium through which this diversity could be preserved and expressed. Each region’s dance reflected the culture and ethos of the people. Take the controlled nature of classical dances harkening back to early forms of worship and storytelling, and compare this with the liveliness of folk dances celebrating the simple joys of one’s livelihood and community. Passed on through generations or rooted in ancient texts, these dances map out the history of a nation that is young, but steeped in thousands of years of tradition.

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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Seabourn

SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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BHANGRA Origin: Punjab In the farming villages of Punjab, the harvest season is welcomed by the pulse of a drum and the vivacious movements of the bhangra. Unlike more poised and intricate dances of worship, the bhangra is a dance of enthusiasm and gaiety. The choreography, usually performed by a team, illustrates the livelihood of the Punjab farmers from the sowing of seeds to the selling of crops. The heartbeat of the bhangra is the dhol, a double-sided barrel drum played with two cane sticks that give bhangra music its distinct treble and bass sound. To keep up with the pounding rhythm requires an equal measure of speed, symmetry, balance and, above all, stamina. Dress for bhangra is as lighthearted and vibrant as the dance itself. Men wear loose silk shirts (kurtas), a loose loincloth wrapped around their waist (lungi) and a brightly colored turban adorned with fanned-out fabric. Women wear an embroidered shirt and loose pants (salwar 22

kameez) and style their hair in a long braid ornamented with a tassel (paranda). Today, bhangra has moved from the fields of Punjab to become a fixture at weddings, birthdays and local fairs.

THE GRACEFUL DANCE OF THE INDIA’S NORTHERN REGION IS KATHAK, WHICH LITERALLY TRANSLATES TO “STORY.” Where to watch: The infectious beat of the bhangra has made its way into the clubs of the United States. Artists like Jay-Z and Missy Elliot have infused the Indian rhythm into their music, inspiring a bhangra/hiphop fusion that is taught and practiced in dance schools all over the world.

KATHAK Origin: Jaipur, Banaras, Lucknow The graceful dance of India’s northern region is kathak, which literally translates to “story.” This classical dance style is usually attributed to the traveling bards of ancient North India called kathakers (storytellers) who shared great epics and mythology through dance, song and music. Like bharatanatyam, the emphasis on intricate hand gestures is essential for narration, but the specialties of kathak lie in its spectacular footwork, amazing spins and padhant. This is an exclusive feature of kathak in which the dancer recites each bol (sound) as the drummer plays the same pattern on the tabla. The heavy anklets on the dancer’s feet are called ghungroo and can be affixed with 100 to 250 bells per foot. With careful variation in the speed and rhythm, a wide variety of sounds can be produced — a train, a monsoon, or even the sound of a horse galloping.

PA Images / Alamy Stock Photo

Kathak dancer

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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The spiraling movements of the ghoomar

Jon Arnold / AWL Images

Today, kathak is often performed as a dance of love. Both male and female dancers must dance with nazakat, a level of delicacy that makes kathak-style dance numbers popular in Bollywood films. Where to watch: Madhuri Dixit, both an actress and a classically trained kathak dancer, is renowned for her graceful dance sequences in films such as Devdas and Aaja Nachle. GHOOMAR Origin: Rajasthan For young Rajasthani girls, performing the ghoomar is more than a dance — it announces their entrance into womanhood. The mesmerizing folk dance of Rajasthan was indigenous to the early tribes of India’s northern state but was adopted in the courts of the royal Rajput kings as a sign of solidarity. The ghoomar is performed during auspicious occasions including the beginning of monsoon season and upon a bride’s arrival to her new marital home. Rajasthani women don a ghagra (a long, flowing skirt embellished with mirror-work and beads) and veil their heads with a chunari while pirouetting in and out of a wide circle in a step called the ghoomna. The result is a hypnotic whirlwind of color that continues to entrance global audiences. Where to watch: The ghoomar earned mainstream attention in 2018 after being featured in the Bollywood historical epic Padmaavat, the story of a legendary Rajput queen. The queen performs a vibrant ghoomar upon arrival to her new husband’s court. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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Ingram Image

BHARATANATYAM Origin: Tamil Nadu Vermilion-dipped fingers, knees bent outwards into a lotus position — bharatanatyam is the most distinctive and widely performed of India’s classical dances. Tracing back to the southern Hindu temples of Tamil Nadu, a sophisticated vocabulary of sign language was originally developed by devadasi (female servants of the temple) to narrate Indian epics and spiritual ideas of sacred Hindu texts. The intricate hand gestures are called mudras and can be used to depict animals, deities or abstractions like “freedom” or “superiority.” Geometric and balanced, a bharatanatyam dancer’s movements require a strong center of gravity to stabilize the dynamic jumps, pirouettes and feet-stamping (padas). Each movement evokes the percussive beats of the Carnatic music. Perhaps the most recognizable trait of bharatanatyam is the pleated, pajamastyle pants that dramatically expand and compress like an accordion as the dancer tells his or her story. Where to watch: The Madras Music Academy in Chennai continues to play a pivotal role in the revival of bharatanatyam. The Academy’s dance festivals invite dancers from traditional communities to perform in front of an international audience.

Bharatanatyam dancer

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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T H E

DUCHESS

BONAIRE • JAMAICA • ST KITTS • ST MAARTEN

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Odissi by a Jagannath temple

ODISSI Origin: Odisha (formerly Orissa) The deities in the Jagannath temples of India are often displayed in fascinating angular positions, and these sculptural postures are embodied in the classical style of Odissi. The distinctive physicality of an Odissi is the emphasis on torso bends that require an immense amount of body control to properly execute. In ancient times, the Odissi was a devotional act to the gods, especially expressing the spiritual ideals of Lakshmi, the goddess of virtue and prosperity. The sequence of an Odissi performance is broken down into five parts: mangalacharan, a greeting and invocation to the gods; nritta, a footwork-focused dance for Lord Shiva; nritya, an expressive dance communicated through mudras; natya, a dramatic dance based on Hindu epics; and concludes with moksha, a movement meant to express emancipation of the soul. Where to watch: The psychological Indian thriller Bhool Bhulaiya features an enchanting Odissi in a scene where the protagonist is possessed by the spirit of a classical dancer.

FEATURE VOYAGE

Seabourn Encore calls on Mumbai, Mangalore and Cochin during the 18-DAY JEWELS OF ARABIA AND INDIA sailing Dubai to Singapore, departing on Nov 9th, 2019. 26

Top to bottom: Radhakrishnan Valappil / Alamy Stock Photo; RF/Seabourn

RAJASTHANI WOMEN DON A GHAGRA (A LONG, FLOWING SKIRT EMBELLISHED WITH MIRROR-WORK AND BEADS) AND VEIL THEIR HEADS WITH A CHUNARI.

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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800.CDP.1837

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Â© Marco Bottigelli / AWL Images

Pura Agung Besakih Temple

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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Bliss in Bali

Is an Eat Pray Love experience open to anyone who visits this Indonesian island? by Kate Wickers

SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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Lars Niki / Getty Images

TRANQUILITY AND ART I dedicate an afternoon to Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, located on the banks of the Ayung River just 1¼ miles from Ubud. Its design echoes the environment — teak bridges, lotus ponds and organic vegetable gardens. The main circular building, with a stunning lily-pond roof,

is inspired by a simple rice bowl and its award-winning spa is the best in Bali. Slowing right down, I spend an idyllic few hours in the Sacred River Spa — hidden away on the edge of the resort with thatched private spa pavilions hugged by lush vegetation and surrounded by lotus ponds. There are seven Chakra

Hemis / Alamy Stock Photo

ver since reading Elizabeth Gilbert’s novel Eat Pray Love (and watching the movie starring Julia Roberts), in which the heroine finds inner peace on Bali, I had wanted to visit. There’s no skirting around the fact that there are some places on the island where serenity would be hard to come by, but I was still confident that I could re-create some of those moments of contentment described in the novel. You don’t have to travel far from Kuta, the busiest of Bali’s resort towns, before you see farmers ploughing rice paddies with buffalo and pass through small villages, each stone-walled house with its own family shrine. Traveling to the town of Sangeh, I call in at Sangeh Monkey Forest — not an animal park but a 17th-century Hindu temple complex surrounded by a garden of sacred nutmeg trees. According to local legend, the site was created by the monkey king Hanuman. Moss-covered paths lead to Pura Bukit Sari, a gray-stone temple also blanketed in green velvet, with a fierce, eye-bulging statue of the Hindu eagle god Garuda at its core. There are only a handful of other tourists around and I begin to relax. SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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THE LOVELY PURA TAMAN SARASWATI TEMPLE, WHERE A PRETTY POND OVERFLOWS WITH LOTUS BLOSSOMS, IS A WONDERFUL SPOT FOR A MOMENT OF QUIET CONTEMPLATION.

Ceremonies to choose from and I select the Muladhara, the grounding ceremony that focuses on the base of the spine, perfect for those who travel frequently. Among other rituals, I enjoy a soothing massage using locally grown ginger and cinnamon and watch the iridescent green dragonflies swoop over the lotus blooms. Nearby, the bohemian town of Ubud pulses with life and nowhere more so than its temples. Part place of worship, part village hall, they are the hubs of the community. It’s not unusual to see both cremations and weddings taking place on the same day, as all aspects of life, including death, are a cause for a celebration. Need your chakra balanced? No problem. Looking for some crystal healing? You’re in the right place. The town is chock-full of meditation centers, cultural centers (try your hand at batik painting), healers and organic cafes. Pop in to Threads of Life, a lovely textile-arts store, full of beautifully woven baskets,

Four Seasons Resort Bali

rugs and wraps (look out for the Bali randangs — ceremonial cloths), whose proceeds support over 1,000 rural women weavers across Indonesia. At the Tonyraka Gallery, you’ll find contemporary work from local artists and tribal art including antique masks and other artifacts. There are several independent yoga studios, with The Yoga Barn reaching legendary status — devotees book classes months in advance. I check in for a Breath of Awakening class at the unpretentious Radiantly Alive, which focuses on honing my pranayama breathing technique. Nearby, the lovely Pura Taman Saraswati temple, where a pretty pond overflows with lotus blossoms, is a wonderful spot for a moment of quiet contemplation. Alternatively, you can trek through lush green rice paddies to reach Ubud Yoga House, a jewel of a place set amid rice fields and palms. A VIGOROUS ENVIRONMENT Along the banks of the Ayung River, you’ll find companies aplenty offering rafting adventures. I navigate my way through Class II and III rapids — suitable

for all abilities — with Bali Rafting Adventure, who have been expertly guiding for over 30 years. The instructions from our guide come loud and clear (“Oars to the right! And paddle!”), until we reach a dam, where we hop out onto the riverbank and watch as our craft flips over the sheer waterfall before boarding again. We float past gardens of marigolds grown to sell, and local men up to their waists in rushing water, transporting timber on their heads. At the holy springs, we stop to perform a simple cleansing ceremony for body and soul, by washing our hands and face in the pure stream. A two-hour rafting experience proved to be another blissful way of experiencing Bali away from the crowds. I head back to the southwest coast to explore Jimbaran Bay, a wonderfully authentic slice of Bali beach life, popular with locals and tourists, with a wide crescent of soft, white sand. For a real feel for local life, you can’t beat Jimbaran fish market, located at the northern end of the bay, where hundreds of pounds of fish are hauled from flamboyantly painted boats. It’s a frenetic scene as the catch SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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is hawked — immense tuna swing from hooks, squids sprawl, gargantuan prawns are piled high on ice, and I’m surprised to spy the iridescent scales of parrotfish amid the trawl. “Nicer to snorkel with than to eat,” the honest stallholder tells me. By night, Jimbaran is aglow with the flickering candles from the warungs, Bali’s renowned seafood restaurants. I dine at Menega Café on delicious jumbo prawns and red snapper served with nasi goreng (fried rice), cooked on coconutfueled grills. It tastes even better with the sand between my toes and by the time I’m on dessert — homemade coconut ice cream — the tide has rolled in and the Indian Ocean laps at my feet. OCEAN APPRECIATION Uluwatu, on the tip of the Bukit Peninsula, is the place to see the surfers in action, off the legendary Blue Point

Paul Kennedy / Alamy Stock Photo

ULUWATU, ON THE TIP OF THE BUKIT PENINSULA, IS THE PLACE TO SEE THE SURFERS IN ACTION.

Beach. Single Fin has a huge, tiered terrace — the perfect perch for a slice of pizza, a cold Bintang beer and to watch the mesmerizing cascade of surfers, who ride high and fast on mountainous crests before crashing into the blue, punctuated by a collective “whoaaa” from the rapt crowd. Further along the coast at Padang Padang, I climb down monkey-riddled steps to a gorgeous cove. The surf break here is world famous and even on “flat”

days, the beach teems with devotees. Nearby, the 10th-century water temple of Pura Luhur is one of the island’s most iconic temples, perched 230 feet above the ocean on serrated cliffs. It overflows with tourists at sunset. To experience it at its most serene, call in mid-morning, and follow the cliff footpath that winds around the headland and gives dizzying views down to the beach. Look out for the macaques that fish in the shallows.

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Konstantin Trubavin / SIME / eStock Photo

However, for a magical castaway experience, head for the mile-long white-sand beach of Nyang Nyang, east of Uluwatu, that lies at the foot of jungle-clad cliffs. From the road, it’s a lovely 30-minute walk through cattle pasture and lush vegetation to the cliff top, where a 500-step trail leads down to the sands. It is the effort required to reach it that keeps it so heavenly. Pack a picnic (there’s nothing for sale) and explore the lovely rock pools and cowrie shell– littered sands. Eat Pray Love experiences on Bali are there to be savored — by candlelight on Jimbaran Beach; in a yoga class with rice paddy views; floating on a raft on the Ayung River; and on a beach called Nyang Nyang, with just the company of local seaweed farmers tending their underwater crops. I didn’t have to re-create moments from the novel, because it was so easy to make my own.

FEATURE VOYAGE

Seabourn Encore departs from Bali during the 17-DAY ORCHID ISLES & THE CORAL COAST sailing Bali to Sydney, departing on December 4, 2019.

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What’s behind Monaco’s curious coat of arms? And are there clues hidden within it that reveal an ancient curse? by Alex Darlington

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Bates Littlehales / Getty Images

Prince Rainier and Princess Grace, Monaco, April 1963

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Prince Rainier and Princess Grace boarding the Deo Juvante II for their honeymoon

Prince Rainier and Princess Grace, Waldorf-Astoria hotel, 1956

Monaco’s coat of arms 38

CRAFTY CLERICS To find clues, one need only look at Monaco’s strange coat of arms, which shows two sword-wielding Catholic friars — an order not commonly thought of as warlike. Here’s the story behind it. Monaco has been ruled since its inception by the Grimaldi dynasty. (The name “Grimaldi” is used interchangeably with “Rainier.”) It began in the year 1297, when Rainier Grimaldi and his devious stepfather Francesco “The Malicious” Grimaldi sneakily captured the Rock of Monaco by disguising themselves as harmless friars, hiding swords under their clerical robes and begging to be let inside the fortress. Once inside, they threw the gates open and allowed their soldiers to swarm the place.

Top to bottom: REPORTERS ASSOCIES/Gamma Features / Getty Images; AFP/Getty Images; Peter Probst / Alamy Stock Photo Opposite: 1966 Keystone-France / Getty Images

n the face of it, the tiny sovereign nation of Monaco seems to have everything going for it. It has one of the lowest crime rates on the planet. And despite being the second-smallest country in the world (only the Vatican is smaller), it’s also the richest nation in Europe. About 30 percent of its population is comprised of millionaires. Monaco lays claim to the most legendary casino on Earth and hosts, arguably, the most prestigious Grand Prix Formula 1 auto race anywhere. What’s not commonly known, however, is that there’s a mysterious series of tragedies buried in Monaco’s history resulting from — legend has it — a witch’s curse that has caused misery for the Monegasque royals for more than 700 years.

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The Grimaldis were courageous, cunning and resourceful warriors. But the first generation turned out to be awful rulers. Upon capturing the fortress, they immediately went drunk with power and decided they had the right to enjoy the pleasures of any woman who struck their fancy. It all turned bad when one of them forced himself on the wrong woman. Immune to his charms, she resisted. He ordered her burned at the stake. As she was catching fire, the story goes, she transformed herself into a witch and screamed the dreaded curse that, reportedly, is still in effect to this day: “Never will a Grimaldi find true happiness in marriage!” Since then, the Rainier line has been plagued with abandoned husbands, abused wives, furious marital disharmony and more than a few premature deaths. A WITCH’S CURSE? Let’s start with the most well-known catastrophe. In 1956, American actress Grace Kelly gave up her immensely successful

screen career to marry Prince Rainier III. In 1982, she died in a car crash after suffering a stroke while driving. Scandal followed after rumors spread that her daughter Stephanie had actually been at the wheel. Those rumors were only dispelled decades after the wreck. Prince Rainier, devastated, lived another 23 years but never married again. In 1995, the aforementioned Princess Stephanie married her bodyguard Daniel Ducruet. But things went sour after Ducruet was caught romancing Muriel Mol-Houteman, a former adult pageant champion. The couple divorced in 1996. In 1998, Stephanie created another scandal by having a daughter out of wedlock. The birth certificate doesn’t list the father’s name. In 2001, she took up with married elephant trainer Franco Knie. The affair lasted until 2002 and ended acrimoniously. In 2003, Stephanie took another stab at marriage, this time, with wedding circus acrobat Adans Lopez Peres. It lasted just over a year. Stephanie’s big sister Caroline had no better luck. In 1978, when she was just 21, she married millionaire banker Philippe

IN 1956, AMERICAN ACTRESS GRACE KELLY GAVE UP HER IMMENSELY SUCCESSFUL SCREEN CAREER TO MARRY PRINCE RAINIER III.

Prince Rainier of Monaco photographing Princess Grace

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Top to bottom: 2011 Gamma-Rapho / Getty Images; Francis Apesteguy / Getty Images

Princess Stephanie and Daniel Ducruet, 1996

PRINCESS STEPHANIE MARRIED HER BODYGUARD DANIEL DUCRUET. Junot, who was 38 at the time. He turned out to be a notorious womanizer and the marriage went south just two years later. In 1983, the princess took the plunge again, this time with Italian multimillionaire Stefano Casiraghi. Just seven years later, she was widowed when Casiraghi was killed in a boating accident. But long before these relatively recent upheavals, countless other Monaco royals also suffered other unusual calamities. In 1662, Monaco’s Prince Louis I had the misfortune of marrying the wild and beautiful Catherine Charlotte de Gramont. Princess Caroline and Stefano Casiraghi

Big mistake. Almost immediately, she began having steamy affairs with a virtual who’s who of European royalty. Her nickname at court was “Catherine the Torrent.” Contemporary noblewoman Madame de Sevigne described her as “greedy for pleasure.” In 1666 she finally walked out on her husband and became the mistress of another Louis — King Louis XIV of France. Two years later, in 1688, Prince Antoine Grimaldi I (son of Louis I) married Marie de Lorraine. They had six daughters. Only three of them lived past the age of 10. Antoine, a serial adulterer, also had at least three illegitimate children with three different women. Marie, not to be outdone, also had a long string of affairs. In 1846, Monaco’s Prince Charles III married 18-year-old Antoinette de Merode. It was her substantial dowry that allowed Charles to finance the famed Monaco casino. But after bearing him only one child (Prince Albert I) she died at the young age of 35. In 1869, at the tender age of 20, Prince Albert I — who was not only Monaco’s ruler but also an esteemed oceanographer and explorer — married Mary Victoria Hamilton. They split 11 years later. Nine years after that, he married Alice Richelieu. At first they seemed well-matched, with Alice participating in his scientific expeditions and even capturing the first specimen of the deep-

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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

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Port Grimaud

sea eel Grimaldichthys profundissimus. But the union hit rough waters after the couple had a vicious and very public screaming match. At the high-society Theatre of Monte Carlo, in front of a host of shocked patrons, Albert loudly accused Alice of cheating and slapped her. She promptly left Monaco, living the rest of her life in London. A SWEETER LEGACY Although many blame those sword-swinging friars on the Grimaldi arms for giving rise to these marital miseries, there is a bright side to their legacy. The breathtakingly beautiful town of Port Grimaud was named for them.

Located near Saint-Tropez and Sainte-Maxime, in the very heart of the French Riviera, it is for all practical purposes traffic-free. Residents and visitors get around on foot or by boat. Like Venice, to which it is often compared, Port Grimaud is laced with lovely interconnecting canals. Bridges, both quaint and majestic, make walking a pleasure. The beach is stunning, and boats are for rent everywhere you look â&#x20AC;&#x201D; either for guided tours or selfconducted excursions. And anyone interested in the history of the area can find it at Grimaud Castle, where guides elaborate on the material provided here and much, much more.

FEATURE VOYAGE Seabourn Ovation calls on Monte Carlo during the 11-DAY SPAIN, MOROCCO & THE RIVIERAS sailing Lisbon to Barcelona, departing on Oct 12th, 2019.

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Glacial waters of PetrohuÃ© Falls

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Water-carrier fountain of Santiago’s Mercado Central

CHILE PHOTOS REVEAL WHAT MAKES THIS STUNNING COUNTRY THE STAR ATTRACTION OF SOUTH AMERICA’S PACIFIC COAST. Words and photos by JD Andrews For over 2,000 years, the southern regions of South America have been home to the indigenous Mapuche people. In the native language, Mapudungun, “Mapuche” translates to “people of the earth.” As that name suggests, many Mapuche beliefs are deeply connected to the natural world and the Mapuche’s ancestral land. The women in the Mapuche communities pass on weaving techniques and patterns to younger generations. Throughout Chile, one can find Mapuche ponchos and blankets, which were traditionally considered important trading goods. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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1. The Santiago city center dates back to the 1500s, when the conquistador Pedro GutiĂŠrrez de Valdivia was governor. Today, it remains a great place to relax, enjoy the public art and observe the hustle and bustle of the city.

2. No trip to Santiago would be complete without a tour of the historical center. And at the heart of the city, one finds the city square, Plaza de Armas, with its beautiful neoclassical Metropolitan Cathedral.

3 3. For a wonderful perspective on the whole city, visit Cerro San CristĂłbal, a 2,890-foot-tall hill located in northern Santiago. Different peaks are accessible by funicular and cable car. 46

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AT THE HEART OF THE CITY, ONE FINDS THE CITY SQUARE, PLAZA DE ARMAS, WITH ITS BEAUTIFUL NEOCLASSICAL METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL.

4. Isla Magdalena, just off the coast of Punta Arenas, is home to a thriving colony of Magellanic penguins, a species first recorded by explorer Ferdinand Magellan in 1519. It’s one of the most populous penguin species in South America, with around 60,000 pairs breeding at the Los Pingüinos Natural Monument alone.

4 SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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1. Valparaíso has earned artistic renown as the graffiti capital of Chile. Some of the urban art has to be seen to be believed — and there are plenty of opportunities to see it.

3 2. Valparaíso was originally a port city that gradually spread across a series of hillsides that overlook the sea. It was listed with UNESCO World Heritage in 2003 as “an excellent example of late 19th-century urban and architectural development in Latin America” with “a vernacular urban fabric adapted to the hillsides that are dotted with a great variety of church spires.” 3. The locals say “Valpo” is Chile’s most creative city, and it’s becoming globally renowned as an art-tourist destination. 4. All the walls, floors, doors and even the stairs have become canvases.

4 FEATURE VOYAGE

Seabourn Quest calls on Chile during the 22-DAY PANAMA & THE INCA COAST sailing Miami to Santiago, departing on Nov 6th, 2019. 48

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TA N Z A N I T E D R E A M S C

L L E

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GRAPES &GRAINS

Evgeny Karandaev / Alamy Stock Photo; Opposite: Ingram Image

IN THE CLEAR

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A JOURNEY BEYOND THE “VODKA BELT” REVEALS A SPIRITED WORLD OF DESIGNER DISTILLERIES. by Stephen Grasso

The historic home of vodka lies in the “vodka belt”

tradition is that

countries of Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. What

if the person

unites Russia, Poland, Latvia, Ukraine, Estonia, Belarus, Finland,

pouring out the

Iceland, Norway and Sweden is an abiding love for the colorless

vodka is replaced

distilled spirit. Traditionally drunk neat (served without ice,

by another pourer

water or any other mixer), the spirit is primarily a mixture of

before the bottle is empty,

water and ethanol made through the distillation of cereal grains

it will portend arguments,

or fermented potatoes.

drunkeness and quarrel.

The word “vodka” was first recorded in 1405 in the court

“Washing the purchase” is

documents of the Palatinate of Sandomierz in Poland. At the

another Russian drinking tradition,

time, the term more commonly referred to medicines and other

where it is considered good fortune to

chemical solutions rather than to the drink we now know as vodka

celebrate any expensive purchase such as a

— known in Poland as gorzalka from the Old Polish verb gorzec,

new car with friends and relatives by toasting

meaning “to burn.” The distilled spirit itself was long thought to

the occasion with vodka, otherwise it will not bring

have curative properties, however, with a mention as an aid to

joy. The origins of this tradition are rooted in beliefs

health and fertility in Stefan Falimierz’s 1534 herbal. Some Polish

about the evil eye, and the idea that buying something

vodka blends such as Zubrowka, Goldwasser and Starka can trace

expensive might provoke a malefic envy in your friends

a heritage back to the 16th and 17th centuries.

and neighbors that would be like a curse. Such malign

While Poland is often thought to be the likely birthplace of

influence could be deflected by getting a priest to bless the

vodka, it has a comparable longevity in Russia. The folklore of the

new purchase with holy water, and this belief evolved into

drink attributes the recipe for the first Russian vodka to a monk

the more secular blessing with a sip of vodka.

called Isidore from the Chudov Monastery inside the Moscow

Eating a raw egg before you start drinking is another

Kremlin. Originally known as “bread wine” or “burning wine,”

Russian folk belief; it’s thought to line the stomach and

this 1430 recipe was for a long time produced exclusively in

lend a greater capacity for alcohol tolerance. Vodka is

Moscow and nowhere else, closely linking vodka with the city.

also traditionally served with snacks called zakusi, which serve to soak up the alcohol between shots. Typical zakusi

VODKA ETIQUETTE Russians take their vodka seriously, and maintain many

include Russian staples such as stuffed dumplings or pickled vegetables with black bread. Once you begin drinking

drinking traditions such as always removing the bottle from the

vodka, it is believed that you shouldn’t switch to any other

table after the drinks have been poured. This tradition is thought

drink. You should also never fill your own glass before

to date back to the Napoleonic Wars when Russian Cossacks

pouring out to everyone else present, and always make

noticed that restaurants would charge for drinks based on the

sure that you finish the vodka that you have been

number of bottles on the table at the end of the night. Another

given, or you could risk offending the host.

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GRAPES &GRAINS

IT IS CONSIDERED GOOD FORTUNE TO CELEBRATE ANY EXPENSIVE PURCHASE SUCH AS A NEW CAR WITH FRIENDS AND RELATIVES BY TOASTING THE OCCASION WITH VODKA, OTHERWISE IT WILL NOT BRING JOY. country’s only distillery using sustainable energy from geothermal heat. The vodka is heated into vapor that passes through porous volcanic rock, and when it returns to liquid is joined with pure Icelandic spring water to create a clean and easy-drinking vodka with a genuine sense of place. Arbikie distillery in the Scottish Highlands claims to put all the passion of whisky making into its vodka. All of its ingredients, such as wheat, chipotle chilies, and Maris Piper and King Edwards potatoes, are farmed onsite. It offers a Haar wheat vodka, an award-winning potato vodka, and a Smoky Chilli vodka sourced from Scotland’s first chili farm.

While the popularity of vodka has never waned, it has also

Fair quinoa vodka is organic and gluten-free, and is distilled

rarely been taken seriously among connoisseurs. The colorless,

in the Cognac region of France using sustainably sourced fair-trade

odorless and flavorless spirit is not valued with the same fervor as

quinoa from Bolivia. The Fair brand claims to be the world’s first

more complex sensory spirits such as whisky or rum. There are signs

Fair Trade Certified spirits producer, and creates a smooth vodka

that this perception of the drink is changing, however, as more

with fruity and peppery accents.

vodka producers focus on small-batch production methods and

Crystal Head Vodka is made with pure Newfoundland water

locally sourced ingredients. Tequila once held a similar reputation,

and filtered through 500 million-year-old crystals known as Herkimer

but the popularity of agave-based spirits among craft cocktail

diamonds. The vodka’s unique skull-shaped bottle is inspired by the

enthusiasts served to rehabilitate a spirit that was once written off

13 crystal skulls that legend links to Native American tribes. The vodka

as cheap firewater.

and its eye-catching container are the result of a collaboration between

Vodka is experiencing a similar rehabilitation, and in 2017 the Baltic country of Estonia was granted its first protected geographical indication (PGI) by the European Union for its production of Estonian vodka. The country has its own vodka heritage that stretches back to the 1400s, and it joins Poland, Lithuania, Finland and Sweden as EU countries that have PGI status for their vodka. Craft vodka has also seen a surge in popularity, with new smallbatch vodka producers creating unique blends by utilizing diverse methods and ingredients. Reyka vodka from Iceland is made at the

Ghostbusters star Dan Aykroyd and U.S. artist John Alexander.

Top to bottom: Viktoriya Martenyuk / Alamy Stock Photo; Ingram Image

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UNCORKED

MILK VODKA MAGIC THE MAKERS OF BLACK COW VODKA BROUGHT A TRADITIONAL SIBERIAN SPIRIT TO AN ENGLISH DAIRY FARM. AND THE REFINED RESULT IS ANYTHING BUT CHEESY. by Stephen Grasso

Black Cow vodka is the brainchild of film director and Chelsea Arts School– educated sculptor Paul Archard and dairy farmer Jason Barber. The brand launched in 2012 and offers a vodka made from milk. Literally, it’s distilled from whey — a watery, protein-rich byproduct of the cheese-making process that is normally considered waste — instead of from grains or potatoes. Jason Barber is a descendant of the world’s oldest surviving family of Cheddar makers, who have been making cheese and producing milk for more than 300 years. The Barber family keeps a herd of 250 grass-fed cattle on their farm in the southwest county of Dorset, and Jason, like any traditional farmer, doesn’t like to waste anything. He got the idea to make vodka from excess whey from a Polish friend who assured him it could be done. Nomadic Siberians created a vodka from milk when it was the only sugar available to them. In southern Siberia, this vodka made from milk is called araka. The lack of water in the spirit’s distillation process gives it a naturally low mineral count that lends it a unique creamy character, and contrasts sharply spring water. Black Cow vodka crossed the pond in 2016 with distribution in California via Wine Warehouse, and plans for further distribution in New York, Washington and Chicago. 56

Black Cow Vodka (3)

with the flintier taste of many vodkas that are made from mineral-rich hard

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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

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CUISINES OF THE WORLD

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THE FLAVORFUL DISH IS A MAINSTAY OF INDIA — BUT HAS TRAVELED ALL OVER THE WORLD, TRANSFORMING ITSELF IN EVERY DESTINATION. by Kevin Revolinski

The word “curry” is actually a twist on the Tamil word kari which,

In a grand generalization, curries are divided by North and South.

historically speaking, appeared fairly recently. However, the concept

Northern India has thicker curries, meant to be eaten with breads.

— a seasoned sauce to eat over rice — dates back at least 4,000

Along with onions, tomatoes and garlic, a key ingredient is dairy:

years to the Indian subcontinent. An idea this delicious was bound to

yogurt, ghee (clarified butter) or paneer (a soft cheese) play starring

spread. Today, curry is a household word, if not a household dish, that

roles. These curries are served as both meat and vegetarian dishes.

has traveled across the world in myriad manifestations.

In contrast, southern India favors rice, and thus curry is a thinner consistency. The South may use milk, but prefers coconut to dairy

INDIAN CURRY India may be considered the cradle of curry and the varieties of

products. Native fruits and curry leaves distinguish the flavor, and you can expect a more liberal addition of spicy chilies.

the dish within its borders are as varied as the people themselves.

But this simplistic North/South division of curry styles ignores

A key seasoning in many Indian curries is itself made of varying

East vs. West distinctions; even specific states make their own

ingredients: Garam masala is a mixture of toasted fresh cloves,

claims as to how to properly cook curry. And as Indians migrated

cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, cumin, pepper, mace and/or

into other parts of the world, the curry concept followed with

nutmeg, all ground into a powder.

them, and took on even more diversity. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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CUISINES OF THE WORLD

CARIBBEAN CURRY The British Empire, first through business interests and then through political control, gradually came to occupy the entire Indian subcontinent by 1857. When Brits stationed there returned to England, they’d become addicted to the flavorful dishes. Many of the fresh ingredients could not be found back in England, so the Indians developed an easy substitute that could travel: a blend of dried spices which — though varying in recipes and proportions — became known simply as “curry powder.” After the British abolished slavery, waves of indentured laborers from India migrated to the Caribbean islands for work and the offer of land. As many of the fresh vegetable and fruit ingredients from India were not available, cooks found local substitutes and incorporated curry powder mixed with either a bit of water or coconut milk to cook chicken, goat, pork or fish. Often the bright-yellow, islandgrown Scotch bonnet pepper provided the heat, while those Indian ingredients that grow in temperate zones, such as carrots and cauliflower, were replaced with regional beans. In Jamaica, chicken curry is as ubiquitous as jerk chicken; throughout the Caribbean, curried seafood dishes appear on most menus.

THAI CURRY Thailand’s curries are known for their heat, and for flavors quite different from India. Mounds of colored curry pastes are common at local markets and menus refer to most of them by color: red, green and yellow curry. Curry paste ingredients such as taste, while shrimp paste and fish sauce — pungent items which, when isolated, can be shocking to the sense of smell — provide an irreplaceable bit of salt and umami. Shallots, coriander root, garlic and Thai basil enrich curries even further, and palm sugar brings a balancing touch of sweetness. Red curry is often the mildest (as in least spicy), and shares its color with panang and massaman curries, which are thicker with coconut cream. While pork, chicken and seafood are popular protein options, massaman curry also contains peanuts and is frequently served with beef, as its origins are Muslim. Yellow curry, like massaman, is a dish of the South, and will test the limits of your spicy tolerance. All of these incorporate coconut milk, while many curries of the North do not. For example, add turmeric and Indian curry powder to red curry (without coconut) and you get the curry-soup khao soi, served with noodles in the north around Chiang Mai. 60

This page top to bottom: Altin Osmanaj / Alamy Stock Photo; Seksak Kerdkanno / Alamy Stock Photo Opposite top to bottom: SuperStock; Kevin Revolinski

kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and galangal give it a distinct zesty

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This page top to bottom: Altin Osmanaj / Alamy Stock Photo; Seksak Kerdkanno / Alamy Stock Photo Opposite top to bottom: SuperStock; Kevin Revolinski

BURMESE CURRY Burma, now Myanmar, lies just below Bangladesh and the Indian subcontinent and was also occupied by the British, so it’s no surprise that Indian curry traveled here and was transformed. Unlike their Thai neighbors’ dishes, Burmese curries don’t incorporate coconut milk, and in fact are a bit oily. They can be either spicy or mildly sweet. Some curries are served with noodles instead of rice. A big difference, however, is that the main ingredient for the gravy is onion. This is combined with red chilies and garam masala, turmeric and that pungent shrimp paste (or a fish equivalent) to take Indian curry in yet another direction. But as we’ve seen throughout the world, people will follow curry wherever it takes them.

JAPANESE CURRY Japan came by curry in a less direct route. In the late 19th century, the advent of the Meiji period opened the doors to trade. Having resisted colonization and foreign influence for centuries, Japan welcomed British ships into ports … and thus, that golden, Anglo-Indian powder invaded the island nation. But the Japanese developed their own approach to cooking with it. A blend of curry powder and flour is fried in butter to create a curry roux to which cooks add vegetables, meat and stock. Add a dash of cream and the sauce, brown-colored like gravy, comes served over rice. By the end of the 19th century, it was already a popular dish and was even used to entice men to sign up for the military: Mess halls promised curry and rice to the troops. Today, menus offer a choice of spice-heat level, but for many palates these may seem like multiple versions of “mild.” Unlike Japanese dishes such as sushi or okonomiyaki, which come with strict guidelines and training for preparation, curry is a casual pour of gravy over rice, eaten with a spoon, with fermented veggies on the side. A comfort food as popular as ramen, curry offers a quick meal at home, or at the train station, or after a long day. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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CLUB PICKS

FOUR SELECT JOURNEYS

AN INSIDER’S LOOK AT UPCOMING VOYAGES Taking REFUGE in a wider world The Atlantic coast has always beckoned those seeking something better, whether it’s the Hugenots and Highlanders who settled Halifax, or the freedom-loving Acadians and Black Loyalists who gave Shelburne its unique heritage. If you can make it in New York, as the song says, you can make it anywhere — but for charm, Charleston can’t be beat. And Miami remains the crossroads of the Americas, where Brazilian business magnates take Barthélemois jewelry designers out for a Haitian meal before dancing all night to homegrown salsa and Cuban jazz.

Gulf of ce en St. Lawr

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be c City

MONTR

Halifa xe rn Shelbu

ÉA L

New Yo

rk Atlantic Ocean

C MIA M

on ha rlest

Seabourn Quest 12-day Montreal to Miami voyage on October 25, 2019

Discovering the perfect HIDEAWAY LOS A

NG ELES

MIA M

Cabo ca s Sa n Lu

Port A ntonio

Cruz Sa nt a o Huatulc

na Car tage Chiapas Colón Puer to tz al ue Q enas Puer to Punt ar nal ma Ca

Pacific Ocean

Pana

Hollywood might be a city made of dreams, but even the happiest Angelinos have found further bliss heading south to the clubs of Cabo and the chocolatiers of Huatulco. For the coastal connoisseur, every beach has its own character, whether it’s the black sands of Puerto Quetzal or the seaside rain forests of Puntarenas. Through the Panama Canal, and the Atlantic gradually unveils treasures vastly different but no less precious or pleasant — the colorful, colonial city of Cartagena and the unspoiled waterfalls of northern Jamaica. Seabourn Sojourn 19-day Los Angeles to Miami voyage on October 16, 2019

Embracing an OASIS out of the ordinary PIR A EU

Ágios s Nikólao Suez Canal

Haifa d Ashdo Aqaba

Strait of Hormuz

Gulf of ah Oman K ha im Ras al t Doha Musca s Ya i I Sir Ban DUBA Isla nd

Arabian Sea

Red Sea

Gulf of Aden

Western Civilization has never entirely forgotten the grandeur of Athens — nor the traces of even more ancient mysteries in Crete, where the charming town of Agios Nikolaos gives way to labyrinth of Minos at the Palace of Knossos. In Ashdod, at the gateway to Jerusalem, the recently arrived cultures and cuisines of Ethiopia and Russia blend together in surprising harmony. The rose-tinted ruins of Petra point to past grandeurs in the deserts of Jordan, while the age-old fortress of Dhaya looks patiently over the seaside sanctuary of Ras Al Khaimah. In Doha and Dubai, traditional dhows float by postmodern dreamscapes of the Middle East, cities bustling between the past and far future. Seabourn Ovation 19-day Athens to Dubai voyage on November 13, 2019

Finding a secret RETREAT from the mundane MIA M

Havan

an Caribbe Sea

Atlantic Ocean

Cienfue

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Cayman Brac

Port A ntonio

A ntilla go Sa ntia a de Cub

The romance of the pirate way, of giving it all up for the free life of the sea, shaped the islands south of Miami. The caves riddling West End’s cliffs gave refuge to outlaws and settlers alike, and the Castle of Jagua was built to guard the peaceful bay from freebooters. From then till now, many an adventure has been fueled by the rums of Jamaica and Cuba — or maybe it’s just something in the Caribbean breeze. Santiago, site of the first house built in the Americas, served as a base for explorers and revolutionaries. And Havana? The eclectic city remains a gathering place for the refined and the passionate alike. Seabourn Sojourn 12-day round-trip Miami voyages on November 16 & 28, 2019

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RETREAT Clockwise from top left: Jon Arnold / AWL Images; Seabourn; Danita Delimont Stock / AWL Images; Seabourn

CUBA

HIDEAWAY MEXICO

SAVOR

REFUGE CHARLESTON

MUMBAI

OASIS

DUBAI

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MINDFUL LIVING

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ACUPUNCTURE — THE HEALING POINT HERE’S HOW TRADITIONAL CHINESE MEDICINE EASES PAIN AND BOOSTS IMMUNITY WITH PAINLESS PINPRICKS.

acupuncture has become, if not mainstream, at least widely known and commonly used in the U.S. and the rest of the Western world. An estimated 14 million Americans have

DR. ANDREW WEIL

undergone

acupuncture.

Surveys

suggest they use it both to address a specific medical condition and as a preventive measure to promote overall health.

On July 26, 1971, many Americans encountered the term “acupuncture” for the first time. That’s when The New York Times published journalist James Reston’s account of the emergency appendectomy he received while part of the team preparing for President Nixon’s first China visit. To alleviate his severe post-operative discomfort, Reston’s physician “inserted

MODERN BIOMONITORING TECHNOLOGY OFFERS AN ALTERNATIVE EXPLANATION FOR ACUPUNCTURE’S PAINRELIEVING EFFECTS.

three long, thin needles into the outer part of

SuperStock

my right elbow and below my knees,” Reston

ONE THERAPY, MANY THEORIES

wrote. This led to “a noticeable relaxation of

Since its origin in China more than 2,500

the pressure and distension within an hour

years ago, acupuncture has been used

and no recurrence of the problem thereafter.”

to treat disease and promote health. The

Forty-seven years later, the traditional

traditional explanation for its mechanism

Chinese

medical

protocol

known

of action is that it modifies and restores the SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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MINDFUL LIVING

flow of energy, known as chi or qi, along

mechanism for acupuncture’s healing

channels (“meridians”) in the body.

power is that it’s an active placebo.

This explanation makes some scientists

A placebo is any treatment that a patient

uncomfortable, as there is no known way

believes facilitates healing — that belief,

to measure chi, leading some to assert it

rather than the placebo itself, activates

does not exist.

the body’s healing response. An active

Modern offers

biomonitoring alternative

technology

explanation

placebo is one that has a real physical

for

effect on the body, such as the sharp sting

acupuncture’s pain-relieving effects. The

of an acupuncture needle. Some research

insertion of needles stimulates the release

suggests

of adenosine, an amino acid with pain-

effective than inactive ones (like sugar

relieving properties. This suggests that the

pills), because we are psychologically

tiny lesions caused by needle insertion

more invested in remedies that really do

could stimulate a large pain-relieving

something to us.

chemical response in the body. SuperStock

stimulate the release of nitric oxide, a wellknown pain reliever. The fact that there’s a straightforward biochemical explanation for acupuncture’s pain-relieving effects may help explain why Westerners typically study its effects and endorse it only when it comes to treating pain. For example, The National

acupuncture can do stands in sharp contrast to its uses and reputation in China, where physicians use it to treat: •

Health concluded: Results from a number of studies suggest that acupuncture may help ease types of pain that are often chronic such as low-back pain, neck pain, and osteoarthritis/knee pain. It also may help reduce the frequency of tension headaches and prevent migraine headaches.

•

vomiting •

and

irritable

bowel

neurological conditions including migraine, Parkinson’s disease, stroke and cerebral palsy

… and much more; indeed, a shorter list would be of those conditions the Chinese don’t feel are appropriate for acupuncture treatment. So is acupuncture just for pain relief, or

be a reasonable option for people

MY TAKE:

view

such

syndrome

can it do more?

narrow

disorders

digestive problems such as nausea,

Therefore, acupuncture appears to

Aside from directing chi or stimulating

with chronic pain to consider.

emotional

depression and anxiety

Center for Complementary and Integrative

rather

placebos

are

I believe that none of these routes to

Other research has found the needles

This

active

what

the body’s own painkillers, a third possible

healing needs to be regarded as mutually exclusive. It’s possible — and, I believe, likely — that acupuncture heals via all three mechanisms: optimizing energy flow, releasing analgesic chemicals and activating a patient’s belief. So who should receive it? Anyone wrestling with intractable pain is an obvious candidate. But I’ve seen positive results in conditions as varied as stroke, asthma, sinusitis addictions, autoimmune conditions and even infertility. To find a licensed practitioner, visit the website of the National Certification Commission for Acupuncture and Oriental Medicine (NCCAOM) and use the “Find a Practitioner” function. The bottom line is that acupuncture has an admirable safety profile with a very low incidence of negative side effects and a solid record of therapeutic success. There is little reason not to employ it for any condition that is not life-threatening.

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Natural Yellow Diamonds

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SEE HEAR DO

SEABOURN RECOMMENDS: FOR YOUR DOWN TIME...

DUOLOGUE BY ALFREDO RODRIGUEZ AND PEDRITO MARTINEZ

HEAR

The rhythms of the Caribbean have roots in the African coast, and that polyrhymic heritage shines through on this Quincy Jones-produced Cuban collaboration. It’s tempting to label this album Latin jazz, but pianist Alfredo Rodríguez and percussionist/vocalist Pedrito Martinez go beyond genre with tracks like “Thriller” – a surprisingly fusioninfused Michael Jackson cover – and, of all things, a salsa take on video game soundtracks with “Super Mario Bros 3.” Whatever you want to call it, it’s fun, engaging to the ear and, if you’re so inclined, to the hips as well.

From the invention of the magnetic compass to current crazes like the Didi Chuxing ride-sharing app, this book introduces Westerners to China’s culture. It’s far from dry, with Ryan Robbins’ comic-style artwork illustrating concepts like guangxi (all-important “personal connections”) or the faux pas of using too many hand gestures when speaking. It also covers history, food and general etiquette in a way that’s relevant not only to people visiting the Middle Kingdom, but also anyone who enjoys a good dim sum restaurant or the latest Asian cinema.

John Engel / Alamy Stock Photo

IT’S ALL CHINESE TO ME BY PIERRE OSTROWSKI AND MATTHEW CHRISTENSEN

DO THE WALLED TOWN OF AL ZUBARAH, QATAR

SEE

Merchants from Kuwait founded this fortified city as a trading center, and the local pearl trade kept it thriving for centuries. Today, shifting desert sands have preserved the mosques and palaces, the canals and courtyard houses, and even palm-leaf fishermen’s huts. UNESCO inscribed the abandoned city on the World Heritage List as an outstanding example of a traditional settlement and a reminder of a bygone way of life, connecting the desert to the sea.

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LOVE TO

CRUISE

go to Porthole.com

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GUESTS’ GALLERY

THE VIEW FROM HERE

MEMORIES SEABOURN CLUB MEMBERS HAVE TAKEN HOME WITH THEM . . .

3 1

The UNESCO World Heritage–inscribed Borobudur Temple complex in Central Java, Indonesia

A romantic dinner for two aboard Seabourn Encore

A view of Seabourn Sojourn from Conflict Islands, Papua New Guinea by @zaitsev_dancer

If you have great snapshots of your cruise, share them with us! Send high-resolution photos to:

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#totallystunned #nowords #bestcruiseever #surprise #milanorocks

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ANTARCTICA

Danita Delimont Stock / AWL Images

VIEWFINDER

Australian broadcaster and traveler Andrew Denton once said of the southernmost continent: “If Antarctica were music it would be Mozart. Art, and it would be Michelangelo. Literature, and it would be Shakespeare. And yet it is something even greater; the only place on earth that is still as it should be. May we never tame it.” The scale of Antarctica is not a human scale: monuments of ice tower overhead, as tall as blue whales are long. Below, where those whales swim, the cold waters teem with krill — no bigger than your thumb and yet the anchor of the food chain. The landscape never stops changing as icebergs float, melt and split apart in shades of blue and white. 72

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NOTHING WORTH HAVING COMES STANDARD.

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