HERALD A SEABOURN CLUB PUBLICATION | VOLUME 29 NUMBER 2
WILD NEW ZEALAND
ROMANTIC SINGAPORE | HOT MATÉ | CARIBBEAN TREASURES
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Long after we returned from paradise, I still see its shimmer ref lected on me.
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CONTRIBUTORS 1
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1. SUSY ATKINS is the wine columnist for the Sunday Telegraph newspaper, and wine editor of the U.K.’s Delicious magazine. She appears regularly on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen show and has published several popular books on wine. 2. JANE JEFFRIES is a freelance travel writer and lives in New Zealand. She has been published in many leading magazines and newspapers. She’s passionate about travel and cruising with Seabourn, blogging about her many adventures on BlogtheGlobe.com. When not on the road she hangs out with her 1-year-old grandson, Brooklyn.
3. When not wandering the streets of Buenos Aires, KEITH ROCKMAEL enjoys snowboarding, cocktails, film noir, hiking, making ice cream, commuting by bike and of course a good yerba maté. He has traveled the globe visiting more than 40 countries with extended stays living in Mexico, Guatemala, and Taiwan and currently lives in San Francisco. Besides writing about local culture, he pens stories about film, music, travel and real estate.
4. A former TV reporter, Houston-based RICHARD VARR has written for USA Today, AOL Travel, the Dallas Morning News, Porthole Cruise Magazine, Islands, Sydney Morning Herald, Good Sam Club’s Highways and AAA’s Home & Away. Richard also wrote the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Philadelphia & the Pennsylvania Dutch Country.
Soren Domlesky DIRECTOR OF TECHNOLOGY
Patti Lankford EXECUTIVE ASSISITANT TO THE CEO
5. KATE WICKERS is a world traveler who writes for many British and international publications, including The Independent, The Daily Mail, The Scotsman, Traveller and Islands.
HERALD Bill Panoff PUBLISHER Linda Douthat ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Grant Balfour, Phillip Crandall MANAGING EDITORS Chanel Samson COPY EDITOR Skip Anderson, Caroline Geertz ART DIRECTORS Laura Roche SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Tammy Robinson AD SERVICES DIRECTOR Alexandria Geubelle CREATIVE ASSISTANT
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Susy Atkins, Stephen Grasso, Jane Jeffries, Kevin Revolinski, Keith Rockmael, Richard Varr, Andrew Weil, Kate Wickers CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Deb Bottcher PROOFREADER Alamy, AWL Images, eStock, Getty Images, Ingram Images, Minden Pictures, Superstock CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Mark Delbridge/500px Getty Images COVER IMAGE
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Bill Panoff CHAIRMAN/CEO
Corporate Headquarters: PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 Fax: (954) 377-7000 Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com Website: www.ppigroup.com
William P.Jordan III PRESIDENT
Sharon Cherry VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND SALES AND DEVELOPMENT
Linda Douthat SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHING
Brett Grady DIRECTOR, GLOBAL SALES Richard Collins REGIONAL SALES MANAGER Gianna DeNicola ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Audrey Balbiers-Panoff CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jose I. Martin CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Piero Vitale SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, CORPORATE STRATEGY & FINANCIAL PLANNING Christina Hunting VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL MARKETING Lindy Lucas DIRECTOR OF BROADCAST MEDIA
Please address all correspondence to Seabourn Club Herald c/o PPI Group Corporate Headquarters. Printed in Canada ©2019 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Seabourn Club Herald is published under contract to PPI Group. The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to publications@ppigroup.com. Commentary and opinions expressed in Seabourn Club Herald are not necessarily those of the publisher, and the Seabourn Cruise Line and PPI Group are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Seabourn Club Herald. Seabourn may share some of your profile information with our affiliated companies, which comprise the World’s Leading Cruise Lines. You may limit our affiliated companies from marketing their products to you based on the information that we collect and share with them. Your choice to limit marketing offers from our affiliates will apply until you tell us otherwise. You may request that your information not be used in marketing efforts of our affiliates by contacting us at privacy@seabourn.com or Seabourn Cruise Line, Attn. Affiliate OptOut, 450 Third Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119. For cruise reservations, call your travel agent or call Seabourn at (800) 929-9391.
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FOREVER IS JUST BEGINNING
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in this issue
HERALD 29.2
FEATURES
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ON A LITTLE STREET IN SINGAPORE
There are dozens of ways to let love blossom the Merlion City. By Kate Wickers
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UNIQUE TREASURES OF THE CARIBBEAN
Each of the islands has a special something found nowhere else, a remarkable handicraft or material that can make an artwork singularly precious. By Richard Varr
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ONE WITH NATURE
New Zealand’s Taiaroa Head is an open home to Southern Ocean wildlife.
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THE BIRD OF THE SOUL MAY RISE...
The architecture of the mosque uplifts the senses wherever it is encountered.
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Clockwise from top right: Superstock; robertharding/Alamy Stock Photo; Marahlago.com; Michele Falzone/AWL Images
By Jane Jeffries
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SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M
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F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9
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16 12 A LETTER TO CLUB MEMBERS from Richard Meadows DEPARTMENTS
14 BEHIND THE SHIELD 58 CUISINES OF THE WORLD Did you know?
16 ON THE HORIZON
The latest news from Seabourn
THE GREEN CAFFEINE
Warm, bitter and divinely invigorating, yerba maté is a cornerstone of South American culinary culture. By Keith Rockmael
CLUB PICKS 50 RIGHT STUFF 62 FOUR EXPANSIVE JOURNEYS Fine things to want
An insider’s look at upcoming voyages
52 GRAPES & GRAINS 64 MINDFUL LIVING NEW WAVE, NO ALCOHOL
A new generation of premium mocktails brings sober sophistication to your glass. By Suzy Atkins
THE NEUROSCIENCE OF HAPPINESS
Our evolution has prepared us to enjoy our lives — as long as we can find a positive purpose. By Dr. Andrew Weil
68 SEE/HEAR/DO
Seabourn suggests how to spend your down time.
56 UNCORKED 70 GUESTS’ GALLERY MAKER OF MOCKTAILS Seedlip’s Ben Branson blends botanicals in an ancient art of spirit-free distillation.
Top to bottom: Seabourn; Cesar Perez / Alamy Stock Photo
By Suzy Atkins
Memories Seabourn Club members have taken home with them.
72 VIEWFINDER Misty Fjords, Alaska
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A WORD FROM OUR PRESIDENT
DEAR SEABOURN CLUB MEMBER,
W
elcome to your second Seabourn Club Herald for 2019. As the summer continues our ships are scattered across the sun-swept regions of the Northern Hemisphere, making the most of the season’s warmth. Seabourn Odyssey guests are basking among the picturesque, pastel harbors of the Adriatic and the Greek Isles. Seabourn Sojourn is threading the spectacular forested waterways and waterfall-graced fjords of Alaska and British Columbia. Seabourn Quest’s Ventures by Seabourn team have been introducing guests to the breathtaking fjords and stunning snow-capped ranges of Iceland and Greenland in optional Zodiacs and kayaks. Seabourn Encore is languishing in the golden light of the Riviera’s glittering resorts and yacht harbors. Seabourn Ovation is heading out of the Baltic to cruise the far-flung British Isles and Western Europe’s imperial capitals. During the summer, we attended the exciting first cutting of steel for construction of the first of our two new ultra-luxury expedition ships, Seabourn Venture. In this issue, you will find some enticing and informative articles about several more of the fascinating destinations waiting for you to discover in Seabourn’s extraordinary worlds. In Asia, Kate Wickers shares advice about seductive romantic attractions in scintillating Singapore. Richard Varr combs the Caribbean for the sort of keepsakes and mementos that recall fond memories long after you’ve returned home. Meanwhile, on the far side of the globe, Jane Jeffries reveals the spectacular natural features that make New Zealand one of our most exciting and memorable cruise destinations. Dr. Andrew Weil generously offers us the invaluable benefits of his extensive research into the neuroscience of happiness. We hope you enjoy these articles and the other news from around Seabourn’s extraordinary worlds, and we hope to see you coming up the gangway again soon. Sincerely,
Richard Meadows President 12
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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The Baths, Virgin Gorda.
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BEHIND THE SHIELD
ALASKA 2020:
GROUNDBREAKING 7-DAY & 14-DAY VOYAGES, GLACIER BAY AND MORE
When Seabourn returned to cruising Alaska and British Columbia in 2017, Senior Director of Itinerary Planning Tim Littley planned longer cruises that delivered more of what travelers want in the Great Land. Those itineraries have been extremely popular, but some Club members who would love to sail Alaska on Seabourn simply can’t manage that much time away. So for 2020, Tim has developed a pair of innovative sevenday cruises that deliver a soul-satisfying range of unforgettable Alaska experiences within a shorter time-span. And because these itineraries don’t repeat ports in the reverse direction, those with more time can savor our most extensive Alaska cruising experience ever by simply staying on board for a 14-day roundtrip combination. Cruising between Vancouver and Juneau, each seven-day voyage includes scenic cruising of one of Alaska’s most breathtaking fjords and majestic glaciers. Northbound cruises sail along the broad face of the huge Hubbard Glacier, and southbound voyages cruise deep into either Tracy Arm to survey the twin Sawyer Glaciers or Endicott Arm’s Dawes Glacier. The September 25, 2020, departure from Juneau even includes scenic cruising of Glacier Bay National Park, in lieu of Tracy Arm. This unforgettable experience has also been added to the 10-day voyage departing on August 28 and the 12-day October 2, 2020, sailing.* The appeal of the region’s frontier communities is a heady blend of colorful local history, picturesque character and spectacular natural surroundings. Ketchikan and Sitka on northbound cruises and Wrangell and Prince Rupert, British Columbia all deliver these attributes admirably. These ports offer historic heritage, cultural diversity and enticing diversions and excursions to satisfy a range of interests from fishing and flightseeing to dining and shopping. The indigenous cultures of Alaska and British Columbia provide some of the region’s most intriguing and memorable adventures. Each of these voyages makes a stop specifically exposing visitors
COLORFUL LOCAL HISTORY, PICTURESQUE CHARACTER AND SPECTACULAR NATURAL SURROUNDINGS
*Seabourn Cruise Line is an authorized concessioner of the National Park Service
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SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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to the native history. Icy Strait Point on the northbound voyage is Alaska’s only attraction owned and operated by a local Native American group, providing cultural and historical programs as well as recreational activities including a zipline. Southbound, guests will be welcomed at Alert Bay in the Inside Passage, a First Nations community with an exceptional collection of original potlatch artifacts, to witness a ceremonial dance in traditional regalia. Wildlife viewing opportunities abound in both directions, either on optional Ventures by Seabourn™ Zodiac, kayaking or hiking excursions, or other tours by seaplane, catamaran, jetboat, canoes and riverboats to view eagles, whales, marine otters, sea lions, bears
and possibly wolves, deer, moose and other mammals. Birds are plentiful throughout the season, and the onboard Ventures by Seabourn team includes specialists and general naturalists who share their knowledge and passion during formal Seabourn Conversations sessions and on deck during scenic cruising of the many wilderness passages such as the Grenville, Whale and Princess Royal Channels or Johnstone Strait. In short, Seabourn Sojourn’s new seven-day and 14-day combination voyages for 2020 deliver a generous serving of the appetizing flavors, thrills and adventures travelers seek when they choose to cruise in Alaska.
FEATURE VOYAGES Seabourn Sojourn sails Glacier Bay National Park during the 10-DAY GLACIER BAY SOJOURN, 7-DAY ALASKA FJORDS & CANADIAN INSIDE PASSAGE & 12-DAY GLACIER BAY & PACIFIC COAST departing on August 28; September 25 and October 2, 2020 respectively. Northbound: Seabourn Sojourn sails Vancouver to Juneau during the 7-DAY GLACIERS & ALASKA INSIDE PASSAGE departing on June 12; July 17 and 31; August 14 and September 18, 2020
Seabourn (4)
Southbound: Seabourn Sojourn sails Juneau to Vancouver during the 7-DAY ALASKA FJORDS & CANADIAN INSIDE PASSAGE departing on June 19; July 24; August 7 and 21 and September 25, 2020 Seabourn Sojourn sails round-trip from Vancouver or Juneau on 14-DAY COMBINATION CRUISES June 12; July 17, 24 and 31; August 7 and 14 and September 18, 2020
SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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ON THE HORIZON
SEABOURN VENTURE’S CUSTOM-BUILT SUBMARINES UNLOCK THE ‘LAST FRONTIER’
Seabourn
CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY CAN MAKE YOUR DREAMS OF UNDERSEA ADVENTURE COME TRUE.
built in the Netherlands specifically for Seabourn and capable When Seabourn Venture debuts in June of 2021, the intimate, ultraof carrying six passengers each in air-conditioned comfort to luxury expedition ship will begin transporting adventurous, luxurydepths of up to 300 meters (985 feet). The excursionists are loving travelers to many of the most remote and coveted shorelines seated in two large, transparent spheres of the world’s great oceans. Meanwhile, recent with the same refraction index as water, so technological advances in marine engineering SEABOURN VENTURE that when submerged, the walls effectively will also enable the expedition team on board WILL BE EQUIPPED WITH disappear. The submersible’s pilot can then to invite the ship’s guests beneath the surface, TWO CUSTOM-BUILT steer them along towering undersea ice walls to take part in optional excursions exploring U-BOAT WORX CRUISE SUB 7 in Antarctica, past tropical coral reef structures the astonishing and often very beautiful EXPEDITION SUBMARINES. glittering with clouds of vividly colored fish, submarine topography and the exotic, rarely circling ghostly, long-lost wrecks, or scouting seen wildlife that inhabits the planet’s hidden the sub-sea granite slopes of glacier-carved undersea wilderness. fjords while they enjoy it all in a sensation like free-floating in a Seabourn Venture will be equipped with two state-of-the-art colorful undersea dream. U-Boat Worx Cruise Sub 7 expedition submarines, designed and
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INTRODUCING
EXTRAORDINARY EXPEDITIONS
Be among the first to experience Seabourn’s new ultra-luxury Expedition Ships and see the world’s most coveted destinations in luxury and style. Coming in 2021 and 2022. Purpose-Built Expedition Ships • PC6 Ice-Strengthened Hull • All Veranda, Ocean-Front Suites World-Class Expedition Team • Handcrafted Itineraries • Two Custom-Built Submarines Open Bridge Policy • Adventurers’ Luxury Resort at Sea
Discover the Extraordinary at seabourn.com/expeditions
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ON THE HORIZON
Equipped with LED flood/spot lights to reveal the brilliant underwater colors, imaging sonar that acts as a second set of eyes, and an advanced underwater tracking and navigation system, the battery-operated subs will be deployed to take guests on multiple excursions per day, available at additional charge in various regions around the world where conditions are suitable. Added to a fleet of 24 Zodiacs, double sea kayaks, bicycles and e-bikes, snorkeling and scuba-diving equipment, Seabourn Venture’s subs further enhance the inventory of outdoor adventure equipment that enables the ship’s world-class expedition team to
Seabourn
“The undersea world is rightly considered earth’s last great frontier,” noted Robin West, vice president of Expedition Operations for Seabourn. “Less than 20 percent of the planet’s underwater surface has been mapped, explored, or even observed, according to the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Using these subs, we’ll show you sights that no one, or only a very few, have ever seen, offering you a unique, personal perspective on the world that is extremely rare, jaw-droppingly beautiful and will reward you with stories to last a lifetime.” The seating platforms can be rotated to provide ideal perspectives and the subs will be outfitted
SEABOURN’S CUSTOM-BUILT EXPEDITION SUBMARINE with additional equipment to enhance the guests’ unforgettable experience. A 4K underwater video camera system will record the journey outside, while internal video captures imagery of the guests inside, to be projected on large screens in the Discovery Center during lectures aboard the ship. A six-function manipulator arm capable of retrieving objects weighing up to 32 kg (about 70 pounds) is mounted on the sub. The ultra-luxury experience expected by Seabourn guests is achieved with custom embroidered leather upholstery, two air conditioning systems, a Bluetooth stereo system for narration and ambient music and, of course, a Champagne chiller inviting guests to toast their memorable voyage of discovery.
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offer travelers a wide range of authentic, immersive experiences in its many extraordinary destinations. Between July 2021 and April 2022, Seabourn Venture will visit breathtaking locations and remote destinations in the Arctic and Antarctica, as well as in the Amazon, Caribbean, Central and South America and more. The ship is scheduled to visit more than 150 fascinating destinations across the globe, many of which have been seen by very few travelers. Over 65 new or notable destinations offer travelers a multitude of new and compelling expedition experiences. The itineraries, fares and additional details about Seabourn Venture’s inaugural year are available at www.seabourn.com.
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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LESS STRESS, better life
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Singapore On a Little Street in
There are dozens of ways to let love blossom in the Merlion City. by Kate Wickers
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Stefano Politi Markovina / AWL Images
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Supertrees and the OCBC Skyway
Marina Bay Sands Hotel & ArtScience Museum
Cloud Forest dome waterfall
T
hink of Singapore and perhaps romance isn’t the first thing that springs to mind. It is, after all, a nation known for being an economic powerhouse with very strict rules (don’t even think about chewing gum, feeding a pigeon or connecting to another person’s Wi-Fi — all carry fines). But that, of course, is just part of its story.
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The incredible Gardens by the Bay, the last phase of Singapore’s plan to become the greenest city in the world, was completed in 2012. This living ecosystem has literally breathed new life into the city’s concrete sky-scraping body — giving Singapore oxygen-rich lungs and a passionate heart. It’s fast becoming one of Asia’s most
Clockwise from top left: Ingram Image; Hemis/AWL Images; Gavin Hellier/AWL Images; JS Callahan/tropicalpix/Alamy Stock Photo
ArtScience Museum
romantic cities with an abundance of lovely places in which to enjoy the perfect date. HIGHER AND HIGHER You’d be hard pressed to find anywhere as jaw-droppingly spectacular by night than the Gardens by the Bay, when the Supertrees — vast metal structures
SEABOURN CRUISE LINE
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Ingram Image
cloaked in living plants — are illuminated. You’re transported to a futuristic world. The sound and light show is mesmerizing, best viewed from the 22-meter-high (72-foot-high) OCBC Skyway, which gives you the sensation of floating on air … not unlike being in love. The nearby Cloud Forest dome, with its 35-meter (115-foot) waterfall, replicates the cool, moist climate of tropical mountain regions and is blissful when temperatures outside soar. Next door, the Flower Dome, the world’s largest glass conservatory, brims with sumptuous floral displays, creating a heady, aromatic, sensual atmosphere. Both stay open until 9 p.m., so visit just before closing to wander the pathways in relative solitude. EXCHANGING GLANCES Considered to be one of the world’s sexiest culinary experiences, Nox - Dine in the Dark is a restaurant that promises to take you on a sensory journey into taste. The concept is straightforward: By limiting sight, the dominant sense, your taste is enhanced. Although there’s a brief orientation showing where to find your cutlery, expect a little spilled food, much giggling and a lot of fun, as well as a delicious meal. However, if you’d rather gaze into each other’s eyes and favor the more traditional, the iconic Raffles Hotel will reopen its doors in July 2019 after a complete restoration. Although you’ll find a Singapore sling (a heady concoction of gin, Curaçao, Benedictine, cherry liqueur, grenadine, pineapple and lime juice) on
every cocktail menu in the city, you can’t beat sipping one under the whirring fans of the plantation-inspired Long Bar where the drink was created in 1915. Stay for dinner and it’s easy to conjure up days when tigers were known to stroll into the grounds and elaborate mustaches were de rigueur. Raffles remains Singapore’s most evocative residence. SWINGING ON A STAR Ask a Singaporean where they would go for a dream date and many will surprise you by answering: “Singapore Zoo.” Widely considered to be the world’s best zoo, by day this open-plan park is a joy to explore — an award-winning example of conservation and how animals in captivity should be cared for. The zoo also offers an intimate breakfast experience with a family of orangutans. Adjacent to the main zoo is the sister attraction, Night Safari, the world’s first safari park for nocturnal animals. Its 130 species include the endangered Malayan tapir and tiger. A five-course candlelit dinner on the Gourmet Safari Express tram is both wildly romantic and a little unnerving, as in the moonlight, it appears that there is nothing between you and the glow of the leopard’s eye. A good excuse to huddle closer together. BY THE BEAUTIFUL SEA Mimicking the undulating shape of a wave, the Henderson Waves Bridge is the loftiest pedestrian bridge in
Singapore and forms part of the Southern Ridges Walk, an easy, 10-kilometer (6-mile) trek through three of the city’s loveliest parks. The bridge curves and twists for 274 meters (900 feet) and is popular with courting couples, who come to watch
the sunset from its covered shellshaped coves. As dusk falls, the great curved, wooden arches of the bridge are beautifully illuminated and if you’re lucky, you may get a glimpse of a crested honey buzzard, Chinese sparrowhawk or grey-headed fish eagle as they fly back to the forest after a day of fishing. For sunset cocktails, Lantern at The Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore is a dreamy affair. The lounge was named after the red lanterns that lit up the landing point for Singapore’s
SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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39 hectares (96 acres) of garden island to explore, with lagoons cut off from the sea by sandbanks, ideal for swimming. Walk across the bridge to Lazarus Island to discover Singapore’s most idyllic beach — a gorgeous stretch of white sand with a backdrop of jungle — which you’ll most likely have to yourself. FIND LOVE But what if you are single and searching? Head to the Yueh Hai Ching Temple (known locally as the Love Temple) that nestles among the offices of Raffles Place and join the line to tie a red string around Yue Lao, the Chinese god of marriage, and legend says that you’ll soon find your true love. You never know — he or she may be right next to you, holding a red string of their own.
Raffles Hotel
first immigrants and seafarers. Sink into cushions on one of the stylish rattan sofas, order the establishment’s signature tipple — a Red Lantern (tequila, watermelon, lemon and cucumber) — and soak up that panoramic view of Marina Bay as it turns from burnt orange to ruby red in the setting sun. This is also the best vantage point for watching “Spectra,” a nightly light show beamed over the bay. For something a little alternative, head to Mr Stork Rooftop Bar where you can snuggle up in your own candlelit tepee and enjoy far-reaching views across the city. If the weather is against you, try the art deco-inspired Atlas, housed in what locals refer to as the Batman Tower (it looks a little like Gotham City’s Wayne Tower). The sumptuous bar boasts a décor of gold and bronze and a rather
daunting 60-page gin menu, featuring over one thousand gins. Another alternative for rainy nights is stargazing at the Science Centre Singapore’s live planetarium shows, where you can hold hands and travel into space at the speed of light. The spectacular Omni-Theatre — Southeast Asia’s first digital dome theater — dishes up mind-blowing ultra-high-definition visuals and sound to make your ears tingle. SIDE BY SIDE If it’s a little bit of peace and solitude you’re hankering after, Singapore has some lovely offshore islands just 20 minutes away by ferry that surprisingly few tourists venture to. Stock up on picnic provisions at Marina South Pier and hop on the shuttle boat to St. John’s, where you’ll find
FEATURE VOYAGE
Seabourn Encore calls on Singapore during the 10-DAY GEMS OF THE JAVA SEA sailing Bali to Singapore departing on April 7, 2020.
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Left to right: Giovanni Simeone/SIME/eStock Photo; Bailey-Cooper Photography/Alamy Stock Photo; MB_Photo/Alamy Stock Photo
Yueh Hai Ching Temple
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A new point of view. We’re launching new ships and adding countless new features across all our brands. So if you’re looking for a new way to vacation — welcome aboard.
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uba (2)
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Left to right: Holger Leue/Getty Images, The Mask Aruba (2)
TREASURES
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of the
Left to right: Holger Leue/Getty Images, The Mask Aruba (2)
CARIBBEAN T
Each of the islands has a special something found nowhere else, a remarkable handicraft or material that can make an artwork singularly precious. by Richard Varr
here’s an expression for every mood — frowning, laughing, with piercing stares and even a smart-aleck grin — emblazoned across brightly colored masks hanging on the walls. Underneath the faces, ornately patterned pottery pieces line the display cases along with figurines of cats, butterflies, lizards and elephants, all decorated in a collage of cool blues, golden-toned yellows and muted earthen-red hues.
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Left: Mopa Mopa Aruba/Renaissance Marketplace Opposite top to bottom: Marahlago.com; Dominican Republic Department of Tourism
Mopa mopa
THE CREATIVE SWIRLS ARE NOT MADE FROM PAINT, BUT INSTEAD TINTED AND SHAPED FROM DELICATE LAYERS OF TREE RESIN.
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Walk into any store in Aruba selling the island’s unique mopa mopa art and you’ll find these colorful, traditional designs created with what seems to be a handpainted precision and beauty. Surprisingly, however, the creative swirls are not made from paint, but instead tinted and shaped from delicate layers of tree resin in a traditional handicraft process dating back more than a millennium. Mopa mopa lacquerwork is just one example of the unique art forms, souvenirs and treasures of sorts found only on certain Caribbean islands. Some are natural, like the shiny larimar and amber stones found in the Dominican Republic. Others, like the smooth, blue glass beads of St. Eustatius, highlight the Caribbean’s extensive colonial history. While barnacled cannons and sunken doubloons are an exciting find, if you stroll an island boulevard and look closely enough you may run across small treasures and cultural items found nowhere else.
ARUBA ART The process of forming mopa mopa’s colorful layers stems from the Quillacinga Indians of northern Ecuador and southwestern Colombia. They picked the leaf buds from mopa mopa trees, boiled them to form a gummy resin and then added mineral or vegetable dyes for color. Unique to this handed-down art form over the generations is how the gum is processed — pulled into thin sheets by workers using their hands and mouth. Resin layers are finally stretched onto wood and then trimmed with a knife. “They say the masks scare off bad spirits in the house,” says Maria Lopez, whose family owns several Aruba art stores. “The Quillacinga tribe explains that you’re supposed to choose the first one that ‘speaks’ to you — that was made for you.” LUCKY DJUCU Also unique to Aruba and neighboring Curaçao are decorative djucu nuts, often
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Blue larimar
threaded into jewelry and keepsakes. Round, smooth and fitting in the palm of your hand, brown and black djucus grow on trees in Venezuela and wash down rivers into the southern Caribbean Sea. They’re swept away by ocean currents all the way to island beaches after weeks afloat. The locals say finding the nuts will give you luck. Jewelers and vendors selling from kiosks string them together to create necklaces, bracelets, earrings and other unique pieces. Djucus are also known as “lucky stones,” as some believe they not only bring good luck but good health as well. Thus they’re often found in casinos, worn by gamblers as good luck charms on chains around the neck, with some set in gold. GEMS OF HISPANIOLA The Dominican Republic boasts two unique Caribbean treasures — blue larimar and brown-tinted amber stones. Jewelry items studded with larimar, often shining with a brilliant cerulean radiance, are quickly snatched up at Dominican ports of call. The rare, blue-streaked mineral is mined in a lushly forested mountain region in the Barahona province, the largest known deposits in the world. Often set in silver and gold, polished larimar fragments add flair to rings, earrings, bracelets and pendants. Classified as a silicate pectolite mineral, larimar deposits vary from gray to white. But rare Dominican blue larimar got its brilliant hues when copper compounds leached into bubbling volcanic magma during the stone’s formation, as hot volcanic gases pushed the blue pectolite
IT’S CERTAINLY EASY TO SPOT THE POLISHED BLUETINTED GEMS ON THE BEACHES WHEN SPARKLING UNDER THE CARIBBEAN SUN.
toward the surface through fissures in sedimentary rock. Erosion eventually washed out some deposits, naturally polishing the stones tumbling downstream along the Bahoruco River. It’s certainly easy to spot the polished blue-tinted gems on the beaches when sparkling under the Caribbean sun. Lightweight amber brings to mind the fantasy of the Jurassic Park movie series, where dinosaurs are cloned thanks to DNA sucked in by biting mosquitoes that were preserved inside hardened tree resin for 240 million years. What’s not fantasy, however, is that some Dominican amber actually has well-preserved ancient critters including insects, scorpions and lizards that were trapped by the sticky tree resin as it dried to rock-hardness. Other stones show off erratic swirls of natural beauty that reveal prehistoric flora — leaves, seeds, flower petals and pollen. Miners extract amber deposits like these from once-forested sedimentary rock layers that were lifted up during tectonic plate movements that formed the country’s La Cordillera Septentrional mountain range.
Amber SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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BLUE BEADS On the small Dutch island of St. Eustatius, not far from St. Maarten, the dormant volcano known as The Quill dominates the sky. But look down and you
Blue beads of St. Eustatius
St. Eustatius Tourism Development Foundation/Misha Spanner
Refining factories buff and polish the raw stones to make warm, honey-hued bracelets, pendants and necklaces, to name some of the more popular amber jewelry. Perfectly clear resins with welldefined insects and other specimens, for example, can be worth tens of thousands of dollars. And like blue larimar, rare blue amber is a precious find, tinted possibly by ash from the extinct tree species Hymenaea protera as well as through other processes. Since the translucent stone can look like honey-colored clear plastic, jewelry made with fake amber abounds. Shoppers wanting the real thing are urged to avoid street vendors and buy from reputable stores. A simple test will determine whether amber is authentic — namely, placing the gem in salt water. If it floats, it’s real; if it sinks, it’s not. It’s that simple. Not interested in owning larimar or amber jewelry? You can see both raw and polished pectolite stones at the Larimar Museum in Santo Domingo. Rock-chip hues span a wide range of earthen colors — shades of gray, white, green, red and brilliant tones of blue, often streaked with contrasting colors as well. Santo Domingo is also home to the Amber World Museum which, along with the Dominican Amber Museum in Puerto Plata, displays remarkable amber fossils zigzagged with flora and insects.
might discover historic treasure: Blue beads washed up on island beaches are considered a lucky find. “They were used by the people of St. Eustatius 200 to 300 years ago, so you can feel history in your hands,” says Walter Hellebrand, a Statia native and the island’s Monument Director. “I deemed them such an important part of our culture and heritage that I included them when designing the coat-of-arms of our island. So they’re a part of one of our national symbols.” The glass beads were used for barter and thus once considered currency. Made mostly in Amsterdam, they were traded in Africa and thus involved with the slave trade. They’re usually no more than an inch long, like a glass tube shaped into a pentagon or, less often, a rounded cylinder. They got their brilliant blue color from cobalt used during the glass-making process.
Once plentiful on the island, blue beads are now hard to find. “It’s becoming more and more of a rarity because so many have been taken off the island,” explains Hellebrand. Yet many longtime residents have collected blue beads over the years and have strung them into necklaces and other ornamental jewelry. “In the ’70s, they found them by the handfuls,” he notes. If you’re lucky enough to find one, Hellebrand urges you not to take it home, lamenting the local museum’s blue bead collection was stolen. “They’re part of our cultural heritage — taking them means our heritage is leaving the island,” he warns. “If I can change one person’s mind, it’s worth it.” If you do pluck one from the sand, a local legend says it means the bead found you; you’re destined one day to return to this tiny, beautiful island.
FEATURE VOYAGE
Seabourn Odyssey visits St. Maarten (gateway to St. Eustatius) and other uncommon island destinations on 14-DAY CARIBBEAN GEMS IN-DEPTH voyages departing February 1, February 15, February 29 and March 14, 2020. 32
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D ON’T LE T
N U M B ER S D EFI N E YO U
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ONE WITH NATURE New Zealand’s Taiaroa Head is an open home to Southern Ocean wildlife.
Andree Thorpe/Getty Images
by Jane Jeffries
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At Taiaroa Head, on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand, an albatross soars overhead.
Southern royal albatross
The wind blows a strand of hair into my eye. I turn my head to see another albatross glide directly above. I’m close to the royal albatross colony, the world’s only mainland breeding colony. The birds I am seeing are mostly juveniles, but their wingspans are still up to three meters (9.8 feet). When they fly, there is no sound from these finely tuned, aerodynamic birds. As their wings lock into place, their gracious soar is silent. I hadn’t seen an albatross before. I came hoping to see one albatross, but I’ve already seen 20. The sky is full of them.
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Christian Heeb/AWL Images
Juvenile cormorant
BIRDS OF GOOD OMEN The adolescent birds are coming back to the colony for the first time since leaving their nests. They have spent five years courting potential mates and eventually finding a life partner without once touching land, and will ultimately spend over 90 percent of their life on or over the water. While the youngsters are preening themselves and practicing their synchronized flying to impress other young albatross, the mature birds are also returning to the colony to meet up with their life partners and mate once again. A female in the prime of life will produce a chick every two years, starting her journey into motherhood as young as age 9. (The oldest known albatross mother at Taiaroa Head, recorded in 1989, was raising her chick at 61.) Once albatross parents have seen their fledgling leave the nest after nine months, mother and father return to the sea, separately. Many months later they arrive back to the colony, often within days of each other, to mate and raise another chick together. The albatross colony at Taiaroa Head 36
has been there since 1937. From just one breeding couple and three non-breeding birds, it has grown to 65 breeding pairs and over 130 non-breeding birds. The royal albatross are not at risk, but they are a vulnerable species because of their slow rate of reproduction. Climatic changes and hotter summers have made them more
exposed. An albatross chick takes about six days to complete a hatch, leaving them susceptible to fly-strike and heat stress. To help, a sprinkler system has been installed to keep the chicks cool. A special observation area at the Royal Albatross Centre allows visitors to view the nests and young chicks. Parents can
Taiaroa Head’s rocky shore
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Miles Holden/New Zealand Tourism
also be seen coming and going, feeding their fluffy white offspring. The first chicks for the 2018/19 breeding season have hatched, with a record number of eggs being laid. Albatross live to a great old age producing many chicks. One bird at Taiaroa Head, known as “Grandma,” raised her last
Nick Rains/AUSCAPE/Getty Images
NEW ZEALAND FUR SEALS ARE EASILY RECOGNIZED BY THEIR TINY EARS. chick at the ripe old age of 62 years. While these immense sea birds are the dominant presence on Taiaroa Head during mating season, they are by no means the only inhabitants. OUT TO SEA Out on the water, we pass another beach on the Otago Peninsula and see several giant New Zealand sea lions, also known as Hooker’s sea lions, one of the rarest sea lion species in the world. Basking in the sun, without a care in the world, these huge, sand-covered beasts weigh about 400 kilograms (880 pounds). Further down the peninsula, not far from the city of Dunedin, is Sandfly Bay — a favorite hangout for Hooker’s sea lions. Here, you can get up close, watching them frolic in and out of the ocean and bask on the beach without a care in the world. Remember to give them space as they can get aggressive if threatened. Close to Taiaroa Head, we get a better look at the rocky shore. Three New Zealand fur seals, easily recognized by their tiny ears, are sitting on the rock ledge as kelp swirls beneath them. The
constant action of tide and sea plant produces a sea mist that keeps the fur seals moist. A younger male fur seal attempts to climb the rocky shelf to join a cluster of female seals, but a mature bull quickly arrives to nudge him back into the ocean. The older male is protecting his harem. As with the albatross, it’s also breeding season for the fur seals. Soon these females will give birth to their pups. Almost immediately, the bull will mate with them again — however, they won’t become pregnant right away. Although the seal’s gestation period is nine months, delayed implantation in the uterine wall means the pup will be born a full 12 months later. The female will suckle her pup for about 300 days, alternating with foraging trips of up to 20 days at sea. FLOCKING TOGETHER Drifting a little further north, we reach Wellers Rock, a vertical cliff. Covered in the most unusual nests, the cliff face is home to the Stewart Island shag, also known as the bronze shag. These chunky, squawking birds come SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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Clockwise: Juergen & Christine Sohns/Minden Pictures; robertharding/Alamy Stock Photo; Royal Albatross Centre; DunedinNZ
Fur seal
Albatross
Blue penguin
TAIAROA HEAD IS HOME TO THE WORLD’S SMALLEST PENGUIN, THE BLUE PENGUIN. Tunnel Beach
and go from chimney pot-shaped nests made out of guano and other organic material. Cemented to the rock, the structures face the prevailing wind to ensure their denizens can take off easily. Each evening around dusk, another remarkable bird can be seen returning from a day feeding at sea. Taiaroa Head
is home to the world’s smallest penguin, the blue penguin. They are about 25 centimeters (9.8 inches) tall and weigh about one kilogram (2.2 pounds). As the light fades, we patiently wait on the viewing platform and our guide explains how the penguins congregate into small groups called “rafts” before coming ashore.
No sooner does he finish telling us then we see ripples on the water and hear the penguins’ shallow squeal. A final wave washes the swimming birds ashore and they fumble to stand, shaking themselves dry. Exhausted, they shuffle up the beach to their burrows to feed their complaining young.
FEATURE VOYAGE
Seabourn Encore calls on Port Chalmers near Taiaroa Head during 16-DAY WELLNESS IN AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND sailing from Auckland to Sydney, departing on February 21, 2020.
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Yellow-eyed penguin
Taiaroa Head is also famous for another penguin, the yellow-eyed penguin. This small bird, native to New Zealand, is in danger of extinction, with an estimated population of less than 4,000. It is now the rarest penguin in the world due to deforestation and the introduction of predators, including ferrets and stoats that prey on the chicks. However, a 40
conservation project was established on the Otago Peninsula in 1985 when there were just eight breeding pairs; by 2006, there were 19 pairs in the breeding colony, which continues to grow. These penguins weigh about 5 to 6 kilograms (11 to 13 pounds) and can reach 20 to 25 years of age. They are the only penguin species that cannot be tamed.
The wildlife of the Southern Ocean is prospering. The world’s only mainland albatross colony has grown significantly, the seal population is flourishing, the sea lions are breeding and the bird life is prolific. Taiaroa Head may not be your regular zoo, but to see these creatures in their natural habitat is exhilarating.
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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M
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Clockwise: Cahir Davitt/John Warburton-Lee Photography Ltd/AWL Images; Nick Ledger/AWL Images; Jane Sweeney/AWL Images
The Bird of the Soul May Rise... The architecture of the mosque uplifts the senses wherever it is encountered.
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he masjid is a gathering place for prayer and a defining space for a religious community. But though each is as unique as the city that created it, the beauty of the architecture is universal. Fountains and courtyards, essential for ritual ablutions, elevate the senses. Minarets, from which the call to prayer issues, reach upward. Domes echo the vault of the skies, decorated with intricate motifs designed to instill awe and generate wonder. These are some of the grandest mosques of the Middle East. SHEIKH ZAYED MOSQUE, ABU DHABI, UAE The third largest mosque in the world stretches over an area almost equivalent to four football fields, can hold 40,000 worshipers at once and has Guinness World Records for the largest dome, the biggest chandelier and largest handwoven carpet. There are 82 domes made of white marble, 96 internal columns encrusted with semi-precious stones, and seven chandeliers strung with Swarovski crystals and plated with 24-karat gold. The place of worship was conceived by the UAE’s first president, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who is buried in its courtyard. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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SULTAN AHMED MOSQUE, ISTANBUL, TURKEY he Blue Mosque was built in the 1600s as a symbol of the Ottoman Empire’s power, on the site of the Byzantine emperors’ palace. The lower mosque bears 200 stained glass windows, while more than 20,000 handmade blue Iznik tiles cover the walls with geometric and floral patterns. Ostrich eggs hung inside the chandeliers were intended to reduce cobwebs by repelling spiders.
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Deposit Photos
Clockwise: Alan Copson/AWL Images (2); Hemis/AWL Images
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SULTAN QABOOS MOSQUE MUSCAT, OMAN
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Clockwise: Tim Mannakee/AWL Images; Matteo Colombo/AWL Images; Nick Ledger/AWL Images; Walter Bibikow/AWL Images
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ompleted in 2001, this house of worship dominates the Muscat skyline, made of 300,000 tons of sandstone with room for 20,000 worshipers ... and a library containing the same number of books. Astounding mosaics cover many of the walls, while the wooden ceiling of the men’s prayer hall is carved with intricate calligraphy and arabesques. The chandelier there, covered with 600,000 Swarovski crystals and 24-karat gold plating, weighs a staggering 8.5 tons.
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1001night/Getty Images
HASSAN II MOSQUE, CASABLANCA, MOROCCO This mosque blends traditional Moorish architecture with modern features, bragging the world’s tallest minaret, which rises over a sliding roof and heated floor. The oceanfront location was meant to evoke a verse of the Quran saying “the throne of Allah was built on water.”
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Where Balinese vistas meet the ever-changing views from your Seabourn ship. Intimate ships
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Award-winning cuisine
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Open bars & fine wines
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All suite
EXTRAORDINARY WORLDS
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RIGHT STUFF
fine things
TO WANT
OF SUNS AND SPHERES Derived from the Italian word for “sun,” David Yurman’s Solari collection celebrates the sublime elegance of the sphere. Allow the orbs, made from turquoise and pearls, to orbit around your wrist and fingers in designs that are both timeless and contemporary. The orbital belt is cast in 18-karat gold in Yurman’s signature double-helix style. www.davidyurman.com
SPANISH SADDLE Vegetable-tanned saddle leather extends over the solidoak framework of Børge-Mogensen’s Spanish Chair, while the broad armrests, evocative of medieval Spanish furniture, serve as a practical place for your drink or ashtray. The sum of all these rustic components is a masterfully crafted chair that forms a warm patina, becoming more stunning with time. www.fredericia.com
SCULPTURED STRENGTH Handmade on the Danish island of Langeland, the CARVE vase stays true to Scandinavian design. The geometrical carvings into raw porcelain create a play with shadow and light that makes this vase as much its own sculpture as it is a functional vessel for nature. www.pieceofdenmark.dk
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It’s Perfect.
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GRAPES &GRAINS
NEW WAVE, NO ALCOHOL
A NEW GENERATION OF PREMIUM MOCKTAILS BRINGS SOBER SOPHISTICATION TO YOUR GLASS.
I
by Susy Atkins
used to feel sorry for the designated
temporary and permanent teetotaller have
driver at a cocktail party: the one who
become far more diverse and appealing —
had to watch the rest of us piling into
so much so that it’s encouraging a lot of us,
fine wines, premium gins, or fancy cocktails,
including me, to switch to a “mocktail” or
while he or she was offered the paltry
no-alcohol wine from time to time.
choice of sparkling water, cranberry juice, or, if very lucky, an elderflower pressé. I
PALATABLE PIONEERS
felt especially sorry for that person when
There’s been a sea change then, and it’s
it was me. And surely all of us, even the
in no small part thanks to one brand of drink
bons viveurs, have had to be the abstainers
that has thoroughly shaken and stirred up
many times, whether it was because we
the market for grown-up soft drinks: Seedlip.
were pregnant, taking certain medicines,
The brainchild of young U.K. entrepreneur
doing “dry January” or attempting a half-
Ben Branson, Seedlip is a range of three
marathon the next morning.
distilled but non-alcoholic spirits. They are
But being the sober one has gotten a whole
made by steeping botanicals (natural seeds,
lot better over the past few years. Why?
barks, flowers, roots, etc.) in a mixture of
Simply because the drinks offered to the
alcohol and water. The alcohol is steamed
off (alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water) and the infused liquid is left behind. The finished drink has subtle and complex flavors — the essential oils of the chosen botanicals, no sugar, no sweetener, no alcohol and no calories. Crucially, Seedlip drinks are dry. Thank are stuffed full of sugar. Instead, Seedlip Garden 108 tastes (unusually) of fresh peas and soft-leaf herbs. It’s delicious, redolent
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Seabourn
THE FINISHED DRINK HAS SUBTLE AND COMPLEX FLAVORS.
goodness, as far too many soft drinks
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Seabourn
Sky Bar - Deck 9 Midship Seabourn Odyssey
of early summer when poured neat, over
non-alcoholic spirits hitting the shelves
ice or topped up with a mixer, especially
and bars. I especially like Borrago, which is
Over in the wine world, it’s been striking
elderflower tonic. The Seedlip Spice 94
fresh and aromatic, slightly floral and with
to see many attempts to make wines with
has a more woody, cinnamon and sweet-
a cucumber hint. It’s named after the blue
somewhat lower alcohol levels, mainly by
clove vibe, slightly astringent and subtly
borage flower; founder Tom Tuke-Hastings
managing vineyards better and picking
bitter, while the newer Seedlip Grove 42
created it after deciding that most soft
slightly earlier (grapes that are less ripe
champions zesty citrus, lemongrass with
drinks were “overly sweet, childish and
contain less sugar to turn into alcohol). But
a peppery twist in the tail. That one is
downmarket.” Be aware, neither Borrago
what about completely no-alcohol wines?
especially good as a mocktail ingredient.
or Seedlip is cheap, at $30 to $40 a bottle
Some taste an awful lot like simple sweet
off-trade — but, like a strong spirit, they
grape juice (and at their price, you’d be
go a long way.
far better off buying the straight juice).
First launched in 2015, this range was influential. There are now several other
VIRTUOUS VINTAGE
SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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GRAPES &GRAINS
The world-famous American Bar at London’s Savoy Hotel
However, two labels I can recommend are Torres Natureo Muscat from Spain and The Bees Knees Alcohol-Free Sparkling Rosé from Germany. Neither is complex or terribly serious, but both offer refreshing, fruity and not-too-sweet natural flavors … with no boozy element. FINE AND FIZZY And there’s another side to the new world of grown-up soft drinks — smart, sparkling softies such as flavored tonics that are much more refined than they used to be. Take the range from Fever-Tree. Their normal tonic is hugely popular, and now you can buy the OUT ON THE TOWN
Warm Apple Punch and a great recipe for
of angostura bark, cardamom, pimento and
Talking of which, the mocktail list in
a simple Virgin Mary. Although McGinn
ginger. It pours with a light salmon-pink tone
your favorite bar is likely to have grown
also helpfully lists her favorite pre-made
and hint of flavor.
rather extensive of late. The world-famous
soft drinks to buy off the shop shelves, she
It’s delicious in a pink gin and tonic, and
American Bar at London’s Savoy Hotel has
declares that she sometimes “wants a drink
I enjoy it on its own over ice from time to
a hugely fashionable Nearly Negroni this
with a bit of theater to it — something I
time. Likewise, the delicious flavored tonics
year, made with Seedlip 94, non-alcoholic
could make and enjoy the ritual of making,”
from Devon-based company Luscombe,
aromatized wine and sweet bitter cordial.
hence the mocktail recipes and lots of tips
created two years ago in grapefruit,
Sounds delicious — and something we
on how to create them.
elderflower and cucumber editions. You are
could happily sip with lunch, before going
No longer having to make do with a plain
more likely to see these in a West Country
back to work. And ask for an interesting
juice or sugary big-brand soda, now the
bar or restaurant than a shop.
grown-up soft drink or mocktail in any
abstainer stands at the booze-fuelled party
decent bar these days and the staff are more
with a beautiful tumbler in hand, filled to the
likely to look inspired than to stifle a yawn.
rim with a glorious non-alcoholic cocktail,
Helen McGinn, the drinks columnist for
crafted from a fine Seedlip or similar, a top-
The Daily Mail, brought out a whole book
notch premium tonic, ice and garnish. It not
of non-alcohol concoctions in 2016, called
only looks like everyone else’s drink, it tastes
Teetotal Tipples. She cleverly spotted the
really good. So good, in fact, that she orders
trend relatively early on, and her book
several more in quick succession. Even after
features such healthy treats as the No-Jito
remembering that it isn’t in fact her turn to
— a mojito recipe without the rum — a
drive tonight, after all.
Seedlip Spice 94
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Left to right: Seedlip; The Savoy London
Fever-Tree Aromatic Tonic, which has a dash
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#decisionsdecisions #founditallatMilano #caribbeanonestopshop
TA N Z A N I T E D R E A M S C O
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UNCORKED
MAKER OF MOCKTAILS
SEEDLIP’S BEN BRANSON BLENDS BOTANICALS IN AN ANCIENT ART OF SPIRIT-FREE DISTILLATION.
Seedlip (3)
by Susy Atkins
Ben Branson, creator of Seedlip drinks, is a man obsessed with capturing the essence of natural botanicals in non-alcoholic drinks.
A teetotaller himself, he comes
from a long line of Lincolnshire farmers, with a father who specialized in marketing premium spirit brands. Branson joined his own love of growing plants with his interest in fine drinks to create the now-famous Seedlip recipes. To perfect his procedure,
BRANSON CONTINUES TO EXPERIMENT ENDLESSLY WITH SUCH IDEAS AS COLD-SMOKING, TEAS, VINEGARS AND LIQUEURS.
he revived the ancient craft of distilling botanicals without leaving any alcohol in the finished product
Formula-1 team. He had just returned from a trip to Macau, Sydney and Los Angeles when Seabourn caught up with him recently. “It’s incredible to see the energy and work going into adult non-alcoholic drinks at the moment,” he says. “Planes, trains, cruise ships are all offering great options at their bars — whether you don’t drink alcohol at all, or are moderating your intake, this is an exciting category of drinks that is just
establishing itself.”
— a process much influenced by a book written in the mid-
For the future, Branson has just developed a grape juice-
17th century, The Art of Distillation, by Dr. John French, a
based range of aperitifs called Acorn and continues to
“physick.” (Branson is now the proud owner of an extremely
experiment endlessly with such ideas as cold-smoking, teas,
rare copy of the book, printed in 1664.) In it, Dr. French
vinegars and liqueurs. He’s building a proper laboratory and
describes how to distill non-alcoholic remedies, macerating
a plant nursery on his farm in Hertfordshire and expecting a
plant extracts in alcohol and water before steaming off the
child with his partner Sam Allen later this year.
alcohol and using the elixir that remains behind.
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both Virgin Atlantic and the Mercedes-Benz
And the name Seedlip? It’s an old Lincolnshire word for the
After launching fairly modestly from his rural home only four
traditional baskets his family used for the hand-sowing of seeds
years ago, his company has seen huge growth. Seedlip drinks
in the 17th century. Apt, since a perfect blend of ancient and
are now sold in 25 countries and Ben has partnerships with
modern lies at the heart of his drinks.
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“Luxury with a Family Touchâ€? ARUBA ¡ NASSAU ¡ ST. KITTS ¡ ST. MAARTEN ¡ ST. THOMAS
info@kaysfinejewelry.com ¡ www.kaysfinejewelry.com
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CUISINES OF THE WORLD
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THE GREEN CAFFEINE WARM, BITTER AND DIVINELY INVIGORATING, YERBA MATÉ IS A CORNERSTONE OF SOUTH AMERICAN CULINARY CULTURE. by Keith Rockmael
I
n a country obsessed with empanadas,
In Argentina and Uruguay, the hot
grass-fed steaks, wine and dining at 10
beverage made from steeping dried leaves
p.m., Argentineans also love their yerba
of yerba maté remains more popular than
maté (pronounced “yer-bah mah-tay”).
coffee in the morning or after work. Visitors
As important as espressos and lattes are
to Argentina or Uruguay should not be
to San Francisco and Seattle, maté is to
fooled into thinking that drinking maté can
Argentinians and Uruguayans.
be as simple as ordering a cup of coffee.
Much like coffee, maté offers a rich history.
Left to right: Hemis/AWL Images, Michelangelo Oprandi/Alamy Stock Photo
The drink comes from the dried leaves of an
NOT JUST A CUP
evergreen holly, Ilex paraguariensis, a native
Before preparing the maté, make sure
plant of South America. The plant can be
you have the right tools. Traditionally,
found in the wild but can also be seen
locals use a gourd made from a hollowed
growing in plantations similar to tea.
calabash to hold the brew, but one can
For centuries, indigenous tribes such as
see more modern versions made of
the Ache Guayaki have sipped yerba maté
materials including ceramic, glass, wood,
from gourds to get its rejuvenating effects.
metal and silicone.
Many South American indigenous people
The metal straw (bombilla) contains a
called it “the drink of the gods,” and later
mesh filter on one end that screens out
European settlers dubbed it “the green gold
any small leaves left over from the brewing
of the Indios.” Today, South Americans
process. Traditional bombillas are made
say that maté brew offers the “strength of
of German silver, while more common
coffee, the health benefits of tea, and the
materials include stainless steel and hollow-
euphoria of chocolate” all in one beverage.
stemmed cane.
SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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Left: Cesar Perez/Alamy Stock Photo Opposite left to right: Hemis/AWL Images; Penny Koukoulas/Stockimo/Alamy Stock Photo; Hemis/AWL Images
CUISINES OF THE WORLD
Commonly, Argentinians and Uruguayans
And any time. Like coffee, many people
about two-thirds of your container with the
will carry around a thermos (termo) as the final
drink it during the morning as a pick-me-up,
yerba maté leaves, cover it with your hand
tool. Numerous hot water stations exist around
but many also drink it during the afternoon
and give it a shake. Tilt the container about 45
the cities however waiting in line to refill a termo
and after dinner.
degrees and insert the bombilla in the space
remains a common sight. Waiting in line for hot water? Not that strange when considering that annual consumption in those countries remains a robust 19 pounds per capita.
where there is no yerba maté. Fill the container BREWING TIPS
with hot water, 70 to 80 degrees Celsius (160
Since maté cafés remain rare in South
to 180 Fahrenheit). Make sure the water does
America, visitors may have to use their social
not boil, as that will burn the maté and burn
With all of this maté consumption, where
skills, ingenuity and technique to properly
your mouth. Add as much sugar as desired and
are locals drinking their matés? Recently some
taste the green gold. Pouring the maté leaves,
begin rotating.”
“maté cafés” have appeared in Argentina and
distributing the water at the right level and
Uruguay. However, visiting a café is atypical
drinking the maté from the bombilla requires
designated server of the maté. He or she will
for enjoying the drink. One typically buys
instruction and finesse.
serve it to everyone and remove the yerba
Simoni
adds,
“There
should
be
a
their yerba maté and thermos and enjoys it
Gabriela Simoni, an Argentinian who opened
maté when it tastes flavorless. Having some
with family and friends, regardless of location.
Maté Conmigo in Northridge, California, one
type of snack to go along with the maté is
People drink it in parks, sporting events,
of the first maté cafés of its kind, explains the
always a good choice.”
backyards and even in classrooms. One only
best way to prepare yerba maté:
needs the maté and the friends or family, and one can drink it anywhere. 60
“Once you have the maté container to drink out of, then you can begin to drink. You fill
The designated server who pours the hot water over the leaves is called the cebador. In large groups, the maté will make the
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rounds, but just one individual makes the
another plant anywhere in the world that
drink. When ready to drink, the cebador
could equal maté in nutritional value.
takes the first maté serving, then refills the
Yerba maté drinkers also enjoy a distinct
gourd and hands it to the next person until
lift from caffeine and related compounds.
everyone has had some.
Compared to other common stimulants in
DO’S AND DON’T’S
the world — coffee, tea, kola nut, cocoa A WARM TRADITION
and guarana — yerba maté reportedly
So why has yerba maté become so part
Some studies have determined that
Simoni mentions, “Besides its health
drinking yerba maté tea increases bone
the
biggest
reason
yerba
density, even in people who don’t exercise.
maté has become so integrated into
Other reports have found yerba maté can
the Argentine and Uruguayan lifestyle
be beneficial for heart-related conditions
is because of the social culture that
including heart failure, irregular heartbeat
surrounds it. Inviting someone to drink
and low blood pressure.
maté is not just about enjoying the drink
And the social-media world has taken
itself, but about immersing oneself in the
hold of the drink of the gods. Yerba maté
stories and discussions that accompany it.
snaps can been seen in new maté cafés in
It is ultimately a culture based on forming
Brooklyn and Los Angeles, and in organic
bonds through conversation while sharing
canned sparkling yerba maté drinks. A San
the delicious, refreshing yerba maté at the
Francisco bar serves craft beers goosed
same time.”
with yerba maté.
The health benefits go back many
Maté tea served in a traditional gourd cup should never be stirred with the bombilla; doing so represents poor etiquette in Argentine and Uruguayan tea culture.
•
It is also considered poor manners to wipe the bombilla when sharing maté.
•
When someone offers to share their maté, just enjoy and finish it before handing the gourd back. Don’t rush; drink at your own pace.
•
If you’re done and don’t want more, just say “gracias” as you hand the gourd back. If you want more, hold off on the thanks and wait for it to be offered again.
delivers the most balanced energy boost.
of the culture in Argentina and Uruguay? benefits,
•
With all of the possible benefits, why
years. Back in 1964, the Pasteur Institute
not give the national drink of Argentina a
concluded that with 24 vitamins and
try? You might end up enjoying the flavor
minerals, along with 15 amino acids and
as well as gain a boost of energy … or
antioxidants, it would be difficult to find
simply end up in a lively conversation.
SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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CLUB PICKS
FOUR EXPANSIVE JOURNEYS AN INSIDER’S LOOK AT UPCOMING VOYAGES
HONG KONG
Bay Halong Gulf of Tonkin
Laem ng Chaba
uk Siha no
Traveling toward TRANSCENDENCE
Hainan Strait
Da Nan
g
The Attuthaya Kingdom was once the seat of power in Southeast Asia, and modern Bangkok still bears traces of that almost-magical land of temples and traders. Da Nang’s elegant culture carries a similar faint aroma of the Hue Emperors, whose citadel still stands alongside the Perfume River. From Sihanoukville to Singapore, this region elevates the senses.
South China Sea
Ko Kood
Ho Chi ity Minh C
ville
SING A
PORE
Seabourn Ovation 14-Day Hong Kong to Singapore voyage on January 4 and February 29, 2020 Advancing into the BOUNDLESS horizon SA N A
NTON
ES OS A IR BUEN tevideo Mon
IO Puer to Montt
d ví Soun Relonca
Castr o
St anle
Atlantic Ocean
y,
nds/
Isla ado Fa lk la ndalvina s Corcov Gulf of Isla s M tarctica Fjords s Note: An Chilean acier /landing Gl ia routing on weather El Brujo rmiento Ushua ent Sa depend conditions Canal Magellan and ice s Strait of A rena e Punt a le Channel Passag and Beag Drake orge Isl King Ge a Sound tic Antarc y Pacific it Hope Ba e Stra a Ocean Se Gerlach e Bay ll Wedde Paradis annel e Ch Lemair
Antarctica brings all our senses into focus, travelers tell us, because it is so very large, so isolated, so rugged and so pristine. The southern tip of South America has its own grandeur, with the primordial landscape of Ushuaia, the majestic fjords and volcanic summits of Chile, the penguins and albatrosses of the Malvinas and the ranches and vineyards of Uruguay. Even the hardwood churches of Isla Chiloé seem like entryways to the infinite.
Seabourn Quest 21-Day Santiago to Buenos Aires voyage on February 23, 2020
Indulging a LAVISH sensibility I
Oman Gulf of
Musca
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Mumba habi A bu D i Ya s ian Sir Ban Arab a nd Se Isla lore Manga Colom
i
bo
Bay of Bengal
Phuket
Malacc Strait of
SING A
Indian Ocean
a
PORE
Silks, spices, sandalwood and sapphires: these were the currency of the Silk Road, and remain essential ingredients of the cultures between Singapore and Dubai. The Mughal monuments and flavorful feasts of Mumbai … the pearls, gold and crystal of Abu Dhabi’s mosque and Emirates Palace hotel … even the ecological experiment of Sir Bani Yas Island’s Arabian Wildlife Park rises beautifully above ordinary existence.
Seabourn Encore 18-Day Singapore to Dubai voyage on April 17, 2020
Exploring the WIDE-OPEN spaces EY SY DN Adela id P
ans Batem Bay Eden ur ne Melbo Phillip Isla nd or tla nd
e
aw ennesh P
Bass Strait stralia Great Au t Bigh
Hobar
t
Tasman Sea
Australia, the “island continent,” is a place of grand extremes – from the fresh seafood of the Oyster Coast in Bateman’s Bay to the looming presence of Ben Boyd’s Tower, used not for warning ships but for spotting whales. Kangaroo Island is a haven for rugged wildlife and for sophisticated wineries. Tasmania welcomes shoppers and art lovers where colonists once raised hardy sandstone buildings. Adelaide’s sophisticated Central Market is heaven for foodies as much as the Coorong River is a bird-lover’s paradise.
Seabourn Encore 14-Day round-trip from Sydney voyage on March 8, 2020
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Opposite clockwise from top left: Seabourn (2); Ingram Image; Seabourn
DUBA
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TRANSCENDENCE THAILAND
BOUNDLESS
SAVOR ANTARCTICA
LAVISH DUBAI
MUMBAI
WIDE-OPEN
AUSTRALIA SEABOURN CLUB HERALD 63
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MINDFUL LIVING
I
n many ways, life in the Unites States has
commonplace. An American Psychiatric
never been better. The stock market is
Association poll in 2017 found that nearly
up; unemployment, down. Crime is near
all-time lows. Infectious diseases that killed thousands are routinely cured, or being vaccinated into extinction. By historical standards, we’re well-fed, housed, educated and paid. But these fortunate circumstances are not reflected in how we feel. Anxiety and depression have become 64
TECHNOLOGICAL REVOLUTIONS ARE ROARING AHEAD, AND THEY ARE TRAMPLING US.
two-thirds of Americans were “extremely or somewhat anxious” and more than a third were more anxious overall than in the previous year. Depression, which often accompanies anxiety, is both an American and a global epidemic, with the World Health Organization reporting that it has recently become the world’s leading cause of disability.
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THE NEUROSCIENCE OF HAPPINESS OUR EVOLUTION HAS PREPARED US TO ENJOY OUR LIVES — AS LONG AS WE CAN FIND A POSITIVE PURPOSE. by DR. ANDREW WEIL How can we reconcile so much misery — especially in the developed world — with increasing peace and prosperity?
Russell Ellington/Getty Images
NOT BUILT FOR COMFORT In my book Spontaneous Happiness, I took an in-depth look and concluded that our mental distress is largely the result of
The last million years of human (and hominid) evolution were characterized by:
• • • •
unprocessed foods outdoor physical labor tight family and social groups a lack of “irresistible” attractions designed to cultivate addiction
and social groups are atomized. Perhaps worst of all, we’ve bent our considerable ingenuity to creating “instant payoff” technologies, from synthetic drugs to addictive video games, that suck more and more of us into a self-destructive vortex. We seek the next hit of dopamine, the neurochemical reward that tells us we are
an evolutionary mismatch between the
Unfortunately, most of what we eat today
engaged in useful tasks — even if the task is
circumstances in which we evolved, and the
is processed carbohydrates, we seldom
actually useless, like reaching a video game’s
ones that surround us now.
venture outside to work or play, and family
next level. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD
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MINDFUL LIVING
Human evolution is slow. Physically and mentally, we’re virtually indistinguishable from our paleolithic ancestors. But technological revolutions Ingram Image
are roaring ahead, and they are trampling us. THE WAY FORWARD The neurochemistry of happiness requires long stretches of anticipation and striving punctuated by brief, infrequent rewards. As psychiatrist W. Beran Wolfe wrote: “…if you observe a really happy man, you will find him building a boat, writing a symphony, educating his son, growing double dahlias in his garden, or looking for dinosaur eggs in the Gobi desert. He will not be searching for happiness as if it were a collar stud that has rolled under the dressing-table.” If we could attach a neurochemical monitor to our “really happy man,” we’d find the small, hard-won victories he achieves on the way to his ultimate goal give him an optimally spaced drip of dopamine — enough to keep him engaged, yet hungry for more accomplishment and success. Having said that, I’ll also acknowledge that the human condition is varied, and sometimes physiology can go awry in a way that no amount of dinosaur-egg hunting can salve. Serious clinical anxiety or depression require professional management and, possibly, drug therapy. I’ve also found that a proper foundation of nutrients can help support positive moods. In particular, I recommend:
• •
B vitamins, taken in the form of a quality B-complex supplement St. John’s wort — 300 mg of an extract standardized to 0.3 percent hypericin
• •
SAMe (S-Adenosyl-L-methionine) — 400 to 1,600 mg per day Fish oil — 1,000 to 2,000 mg per day
But beyond these measures, consciously doing what we can to replicate the environment in which we evolved is the best route to contentment and, on occasion anyway, true happiness. Eat an unprocessed diet rich in fruits, vegetables and healthy animal protein, especially cold-water fish. Get frequent, gentle exercise, preferably outdoors. Work hard to maintain social groups of family and friends. And most importantly, find an endeavor that gives your life meaning. Most of the happiness we feel in life is not related to short-term rewards or mindlessly consuming, but by making steady, incremental progress toward a worthwhile goal — one that helps us, our families, the community and the world. If you are fortunate, you are in the midst of pursuing such a purpose.
THE NEUROCHEMISTRY OF HAPPINESS REQUIRES LONG STRETCHES OF ANTICIPATION AND STRIVING PUNCTUATED BY BRIEF, INFREQUENT REWARDS.
If not, find one.
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It’s really not that difficult.
Just take her to Milano.
Look for the Milano Blue.
TA N Z A N I T E D R E A M S C O
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SEE HEAR DO
SEABOURN RECOMMENDS: FOR YOUR DOWN TIME...
SPACE WEATHER REPORT BY ANTHONY NINE
SEE
When the concept of coloring books for grown-ups first came about, the word “meditative” tended to come up a lot. It was probably inevitable that they’d go further into mystical realms eventually. This is a coloring book (though we doubt the back cover when it says “definitely not a spell”) that has pictures and words designed to inspire surreal experiences. Even an idle glance at the pages becomes oddly compelling – not exactly poetry, not precisely fiction, but spiritually uplifting and, yes, maybe even profoundly moving. revelore.press
HEAR
HOWICK FALLS, SOUTH AFRICA
DO
AfriPics.com/Alamy Stock Photo
A DIFFERENT KIND OF HUMAN (STEP II) BY AURORA
The Norwegian chanteuse Aurora Aksnes has captured the internet’s heart with her gentle cover versions of pop hits, but her third full-length album (which serves as the second half of 2018’s Infections of a Different Kind) is absolutely original. Cascading electronic soundscapes serve as backdrop to purely organic vocals, urging listeners, “Don’t forget who you are” (in “The River”) and warning us, “Everything wants to live” (in the anthemic single “The Seed”). She contains vast depths, and, thankfully, she is willing to share them.
“The Midlands Meander” is both a thing to do and a place to do it, in some of the KwaZulu-Natal Province’s most beautiful and unexpected terrain. The verdant area between the steep Drakensberg range and urbane “City of Flowers” Pietermaritzburg is prized today as much for local artisans as the landscape. At the heart of it all is the quaint town of Howick, home to world-class cobblers, olive-makers and Howick Falls. The 310-foot cascade was called KwaNogqaza, “Place of the Tall One,” by the Zulu people – who also told tales of the inkanyamba, a legendary, eel-like serpent living below the falls just like Scotland’s Loch Ness Monster.
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GUESTS’ GALLERY
THE VIEW FROM HERE
MEMORIES SEABOURN CLUB MEMBERS HAVE TAKEN HOME WITH THEM . . .
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Reykjavik, Iceland, while cruising on Seabourn Quest herman_pieters
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Tromsø, Norway, on board Seabourn Quest seahawksanders
Cruising the Milford Sound on board Seabourn Encore bracao0403
If you have great snapshots of your cruise, share them with us! Send high-resolution photos to:
photos@seabourn.com or share via: or
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Twitter (@SeabournCruise),
(SeabournCruise)
Facebook (facebook.com/seabourn).
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LONG LIVE There’s nothing quite like a day spent at the beach. Whatever a beach day means to you, it fills you with joy. Surfrider’s network of coastal defenders protect what we love so that the beach can be enjoyed for generations to come. Join us today and help us protect your favorite beach. Photo: Dylan Gordon
LEARN MORE AT SURFRIDER.ORG
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VIEWFINDER
MISTY FJORDS NATIONAL MONUMENT ALASKA On December 1, 1978, President Jimmy Carter set aside these 2.2 million acres of pristine Alaskan wilderness as a national monument. Some have called it “the Yosemite of the North,” where glaciers have sculpted granite cliffs 3,000 feet high, and where melting ice feeds waterfalls that cascade through old-growth rain forest. This is a home to river otter and wolverine, moose and marten, orca and king salmon — and to a majesty that is Alaska’s own.
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