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BEAUTY
g n i l i a N Nails By Lauren Burton
One of the things I often hear about is nail technicians having issues with certain clients not getting the recommended wear time from nail products. This can be down to several reasons, maybe nail preparation has not been done correctly, the use of too much preparation product, product getting on the cuticle or sidewalls, too thick of an application with gel, acrylic ratios not being correct, not capping the free edge of the nail with your gel polish products, system products including gels, liquid monomer and acrylic polymer powders being mixed and match with different brands or even another brand UV lamp being used that does not cure the other gel brand being used, over-filing of the product and even of the natural nail, an old UV lamp that may no longer be working correctly, incorrect placement of apex, clients not being given correct aftercare, clients not following aftercare, the lack of a thorough consultation and assessing the clients’ nails have not been done before any treatment application. As you can see, there are so many probable causes of treatments not lasting. Suppose you are mixing gel brands (i.e. one brand of base coat, or another brand of colour gel and a different brand topcoat or just a completely different brand UV lamps). You could essentially be causing these issues due to mixing brands. In terms of acrylic nails, if you are using one brand monomer and different brand acrylic powder with each other, you are setting yourself up for failure as you cannot ever guarantee your work due to mixing different brands, they are not designed to be mixed and matched, you cannot know if they are bonding well together or even fully curing, so one way to reduce this definite issue is using that product system in its entirety, one brand of liquid monomer with the same brand of acrylic polymer powder, an entire gel system with matching lamp, at least then if you continue to have issues you know for sure it is not your products or UV light causing the problems with longevity. I see the main problem is the lack of consultation and assessment of the client’s nails before product application. Everyone’s nails are different, so what product system may suit one person is not necessarily going to work with another person. Not everyone has the natural nails to wear Gel Polish on them; I certainly do 46
Beauty Biz Year 14 Issue 3
not. I am lucky to get five days out of my gel polish before it peels away from the free edge of my natural nail. This is because my natural nails are too thin, flexible and very flat, with no natural arch or curve to the nail, so gel polish cannot support my nails and any length that starts to grow, plus that with my lifestyle and occupation. Myself and gel polish are just not a suitable match. Which sucks, but it is what it is. All too often, I see technicians just giving clients whatever treatment the client has asked for without even looking at the nails or asking about the client’s lifestyle to see if that product is a viable treatment for that client’s nails and lifestyle. You are setting yourself up for failure by just allowing clients to have whatever they ask for, remember you are the professional in this situation. They are coming to you for that very reason. Be professional; advise them of your professional opinion. If a particular product is not going to work for the type of nails they have or their lifestyle, tell them. The majority of the time, they will listen and take the advice and have whatever you recommend. If they decide to go against what you have advised, ensure you cover your own back by explaining the consequences of having a product not suited to their nails or lifestyle. These consequences are the product
not lasting the duration and potentially damaging the nails. By just letting the client have whatever they want and not consulting or assessing your clients properly, you are the one who comes off worse. Let’s imagine we let Wendy have whatever she wanted on her nails, knowing her nail type and lifestyle aren’t suited to her chosen product. Wendy then has issues with their nails after you’ve told them how long the product is recommended to last, for they don’t get half of that because their nails and lifestyle aren’t suited to the product, you then become a “rubbish” nail technician according to Wendy and lose her as a client, and potentially future clients from her telling friends and family about the issues she had with your nails. It is vital to provide consultations, assess your clients’ nails and lifestyle before any treatment application, and provide aftercare information upon completion to ensure your client gets the most from their nails. Lauren Burton is a Master Educator and Head Education for Hand and Nail Harmony Australia, distributors of Gelish Gel Polish. Visit www.gelish.com.au
