Professional Beauty Gcc - December 2015 by Professional Beauty GCC

December 2015

For your beauty, hair and spa business

Jolly holiday Our guide to seasonal selling

GCC

10 business boosters Tips for success

Competitive edge Shine in our nail competition

needleknow-how All you need to know about semi-permanent make-up

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Published by and (C) 2015 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LLC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributing editor: Zoe Moleshead zoe@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Maria Dowling Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Marketing Manager: Nicki Wyatt nicki@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production:

Scratch Advertising & Communication www.scratchcom.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

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in this issue... Regulars 7

News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty

20 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 28 Ask the experts Advice on skin supplements, hair colour, nails and make-up services 61 Spotlight on spa speakers Sharon Barcock on the GCC PSWC 2016 75 Treatment news This month we test a Voya Hamman, Elemis facial and KeraStraight hair relaxing treatment

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Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

Features 80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training

51 Leading lady We catch up with Rita Remark, global lead educator for Essie, during her recent Dubai visit 58 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good to talk Maria Dowling on effective communication 63 Grand designs Behind the scenes at the spa at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Canal, Abu Dhabi

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hat’s the ha llma rk of the ultimate sa lon or spa ex perience? That’s been my recurring que stion recently a s I’ve had the priv ilege of a ssisting in the judg ing of the Globa l Spa a nd Wellne ss awa rds. To accomplish excellence, a spa or salon must consider every single aspect of a client’s journey from the moment they book, to the instant they leave the venue and beyond – in the form of follow up communication and feedback requests. Achieving this is no mean feat, but some of you are hitting the mark and raising the bar for standards in the industry. Outside of the judging, I visited mariadowling salon and SensAsia spa this month, both beacons of successful customer service. At both venues the service is seamless, with the client’s every need anticipated and met. The teams at both venues are also adept at recommending products — selling without the hard sell. If sales are a challenge in your business, read our guide to seasonal selling, including retail displays, sales tips and seasonal promotions on page 33. We also include the latest festive gift boxes to tempt your clients this December. As we continue the planning for our new 2016 Beauty Conference, to run alongside the Professional Beauty GCC exhibition on 1 - 2 February, we reveal plans for our improved nail competition for aspiring technicians. Read our advice on how to prepare, enter and shine on page 53. As I close the last issue of 2015, I’ve been reflecting on another whirlwind year at Professional Beauty. There are many exciting things on the horizon as we kick-start next year with our second industry exhibition, spa conference and beauty conference. We hope you’re excited about being a part of it and we look forward to continuing to support, promote and inspire your business in 2016 and beyond. Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR

36 On the cover 23 Needle know-how All you need to know about semi-permanent make-up

36 Jolly holiday Seasonal selling solutions for spas and salons 53 Competitive edge Learn how to shine in our 2016 nail competition 66 Ten business boosters Read our handy tips on achieving salon success

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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News

All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa

Top stylists appointed PB ambassadors

everal local and internationally renowned hairdressers have pledged their support to the Professional Beauty GCC 2016 exhibition, signing up to become brand ambassadors for the show. Ambassador and international stylist Jamilla Paul will also preside over the Hair Stage at the exhibition in February. The British stylist is creative and brand director at Glamour Salons in the UAE and creator of The Jewel Bar internationally. Jamilla has been in the industry for 25 years and represented some huge brands artistically throughout her career. She is a regular at New York, London and Paris Fashion Weeks and also runs a multi awardwinning flagship salon in the UK along with working for many TV Shows including Being The Boss an MTV Beauty Show. She will present the exciting event, which will include hair presentations

and inspirations from a very exciting line up of professionals both regionally and internationally. Other star ambassadors who share Professional Beauty’s ethos of supporting industry growth and sharing ideas and inspiration include Tara Roux, Ruksher Malik and Maria Dowling. In addition to the ambassadors, two further international stylists have confirmed that they will be presenting on the Hair Stage. Angelo Vallilio, who was British Hairdresser of the Year Eastern winner 2013, 2014 and has also represented Britain in the Wella Trend Vision Awards in Berlin and is the first British hairdresser to be selected as a member of the Sebastian Professional Artistic Teamwill be present. Also attending is multi award-winning hairdresser Tracey Devine who is is Affinage’s Global Ambassador. Originally

Jamilla Paul the founder of Angels salon in Aberdeen, Devine focuses some of her time conducting educational seminars, shows and presentations and is responsible for the creative direction of Affinage. In 2012 and 2013, she added to her accolades by winning the title of Men’s Hairdresser of the Year and Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year in the UK. The ambassadors will be joining the panel debates at the end of each day of the Beauty Conference on 1 and 2 February. Topics are Regional Trends, What’s Hot and What's Not and Salon Management, What To Do When Things are Tough. Visitors can also send their questions to the panel in advance to nicki@professionalbeauty.ae Full programme details will be published in Professional Beauty GCC January. In the meantime, read more at: www. professionalbeauty.ae/beautyconference

Fitness, sports and complementary health services more important to global travellers

Revenue per customer grew significantly for spas, hotels, resorts and other providers of spa and wellness services in 2014, according to a new report. The International Wellness and Spa Tourism Monitor 2014/2015 found that revenue per customer has gown by around 6.5 per cent for local and

domestic guests and 8 per cent for international guests, compared to the figures for 2012. The report, the third by the Tourism Observatory for Health and Wellness (TOHWS), collected information from 56 countries around the world. The report also noted an increased interest in medical services and in health and fitness related options. Twenty per cent of local, 18 per cent of international and 12 per cent of domestic tourists did, for example, show an interest in complementary therapies. Fitness and sports was of interest to 18 per cent of local, 13 per cent of international and 20 per cent of domestic tourists. The report also highlighted a shift in the motivation of customers. The treatments and services offered remains

a top reason for choosing a facility, with 38 per cent of international, 21 per cent of domestic and 19 per cent of local guests citing this as key. However, the brand and reputation of the property has become a more important factor. This is now a priority for 21 per cent of international, 38 per cent of domestic and 36 per cent of local guests. The reported defined 17 types of operations that provide spa and wellness services, including resort spas, urban hotel spas, wellness resorts and centres, medical spas and resorts, airport spas and mineral springs spas. The highest growth was reported for the category of healthy hotels and resorts, up 14 per cent, wellness hotels, which grew by 10 per cent, retreats, and adventure spas and wellness facilities, both also up 10 per cent.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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St Regis Dubai launches new Iridium Spa

he luxurious new Iridium Spa comprises six treatment rooms, including separate sections for male and female guests, each featuring dedicated wet areas with steam and sauna facilities, two hammams, and a relaxation area in the form of The Iridium Room. Iridium Spa offers a wide range of treatments, ranging from facials, massages, body treatments, detoxifying wraps, hammam and reflexology. To coincide with the opening of the spa, Iridium has been chosen as the venue to launch several new brands into the Middle East. Soleil Toujours is introducing its suncare line and will be launched at the St Regis Dubai pool deck. The products protect the skin with natural state-of-the-art formulas, combining deeply nourishing, healing and rejuvenating ingredients. Amanda Schmiege, director of spa and recreation says, “We are extremely

delighted to unveil Iridium Spa at the St Regis Dubai. Our spa will live up to the legacy of the brand, not only in its design but also in our signature treatments and exclusive product offerings. Our partnerships with such brands as Soleil Toujours is particularly exciting as we are able to introduce new suncare options into the Middle East." Another exclusive anti-ageing brand Swiss Perfection is also entering the Middle East market with the launch of its products and treatments at the prestigious new spa. Pioneering skin and hair care brand

Glowing Global Mentorship Program participant reflections have been published in a 100-page report. The document entitled Mentorship Reflections, Guiding and Inspiring Spa for a Well World was made public in time for the start of the Global Wellness Summit in Mexico, in November. The mentorship programme is the first international initiative of its kind in the spa and wellness industry and allows spa managers interested in elevating their experience to be paired with a more senior spa director mentor. The GMP, which launched in January 2015, will recommence in January 2016 with the first of two six-month long sessions begin. Jean-Guy de Gabriac has been appointed initiative chair, global career development by Susie Ellis, president and chief executive officer of the Global Wellness Summit. In the first wave of the programme, many spa professionals took the opportunity to participate in the Middle East. One mentee Maria Haggo, who was then spa director at Carlton, JBR, Dubai, was mentored by Francisca Atunes,

area director, Six Senses Middle East and Africa. In the report, Haggo reflects, “Participating in the Global Mentorship Program has had a tremendous impact on me both professionally and personally and I would highly recommend it to anyone in the industry who wishes to open their view and widen their approach. “I found it very enriching, after many years of working in the industry, to be able to take a step back and in company with another professional to discuss and deliberate one of my projects. It has given me a deeper insight and overall a new perception on how I previously saw my business and my project. “It has also given me a boost of confidence to be able to share knowledge, opinions and insights with someone in the industry who has much broader and deeper experience than myself." The inaugural 2015 edition of the programme saw 34 mentees in 22 countries paired with 17 mentors, and programme organisers are aiming for 100 mentees and 50 mentors in 2016. Read the full report at www.mentorshipevidence. com/resources/mentees-precis?

Mentees report positive impact of GMP

Carol Joy London also joins the line-up, the second spa to debut the brand’s range in the Middle East. Nicole Fletcher, director, Carol Joy London said, “We are thrilled to see Carol Joy London in such a prestigious and relevant setting. The Iridium Spa forms part of a wider strategy to grow Carol Joy London’s presence in the Middle East and we are looking forward to working closely with them to bring these transformational products to their customers ”

A-list stylist coiffures Pastels’ clients Georges El Mendelek visited Pastels Salon Ritz-Carlton, JBR, Dubai in November to give the salon’s clientele the chance to experience the touch of an A-list stylist. El Mendelek’s portfolio's includes an impressive body of work for renowned fashion designers such as Elie Saab and Christian Louboutin and in addition to styling many of the Middle East’s most beautiful women such as Daniella Rahme, Raya Abi Rached and Elissa, the talented hair expert has become a go-to stylist for several TV shows including Mission Fashion, Dancing with the Stars, Arabs Got Talent and The X Factor. Unsurprisingly he is also a L’Oréal ambassador and the in-demand Lebanese stylist has styled shoots and cover shots for several notable Arabian publications, namely Jamalouki, Al Jamila, Femme and L’Officiel. Pastels salon frequently plays hosts celebrity and highly-influential stylists from around the world.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Make Up New look for Four Seasons Riyadh’s Spa & Wellness Centre Institute

opens in Dubai

he Spa and Wellness Centre at Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh has undergone a transformation of its treatment rooms and relaxation area under the skillful guidance of GA Design International. Alongside a structural overhaul of the centre, a new relaxation area, Oxygen Bar and locker room for guests have been introduced, while the treatments rooms and an existing locker room have been entirely renovated. A fresh décor scheme has been created throughout the centre using warm natural earth tones to evoke an inviting, soothing and cohesive sense of rejuvenation and relaxation throughout the area. Bedding by Comphy and a MLX Quartz wellness couch, plus additional spa equipment from Gharieni have also been included in the new look spa and wellness facility. In parallel to the revamp of the facility

itself, the spa’s treatment menu has also been updated with a number of new rituals being added to its line-up. Oriental and Sahara massages, Royal and Moroccan hammams and a number of new facial treatments are among the enhanced offerings. “The refurbishment of the Spa and Wellness Centre demonstrates the hotel’s commitment to continually improving the guest experience and our recent win at the World’s Spa Awards for World’s Best Men Spa only comes to assert that,” says Akram Al Kawasmeh, senior director of spa at Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh. “We have put on offer an array of relaxing new treatments, delivered by skillful Four Seasons Spa therapists. The new spa uses unique hightech spa equipment, and world-renowned products such as Kerstin Florien, to offer guests a spa experience like none other available in Riyadh.”

Cayan Hospitality appoints Carolina Moquist spa director Carolina Moquist will take up the role of spa director of LivNordic Spa and Wellness at the soon-to-be-opened Cayan Tower in Dubai Marina. Moquist, who will take control of all aspects of the spa, is an experienced professional who has held positions in countries including the Dominican Republic, Oman, Macau and the UAE and with the Six Senses group. “We are all very excited at the prospect of establishing LivNordic in Dubai. It is a very unique spa and wellness concept and we are sure that the project will be a huge success and a remarkable addition to the portfolio of Cayan Hospitality. I wish Carolina utmost success in her endeavour,” said Ahmed Alhatti,

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

President and Chairman of Cayan Group. “I’m proud to be part of Cayan Group and to work with its dedicated team. As well, I am extremely excited to be at the helm of this project and I look forward to bringing an authentic Nordic experience to Dubai. The residents of this vibrant, cosmopolitan city are well aware of health and wellness trends and I am sure they will appreciate the latest practices and treatments from the industry,” add Moquist. Cayan Hospitality, a subsidiary of Cayan Group, signed a partnership with Swedish luxury spa specialists Raison d’Etre – the developers of the LivNordic spa concept – earlier this year.

The Lipstick make up Institute has opened its doors to all UAE makeup enthusiasts in the UAE, offering comprehensive course programmes aimed at producing creative and unique make-up professionals. Founded by professional photographer and industry expert Yasmin Hussain, The Lipstick Make Up Institute forms the sister company to successful photography studio YH Studios. Working alongside Hussain, is master make-up professional and make-up educator Livia Rideg. Both artists have over 25 years’ experience in the industry and have translated their expertise into a series of workshops. The classes will showcase the most effective application techniques, while also educating students to be precise, quick and practical in order to maximise the experience and gain confidence in the industry. Supported exclusively by professional make-up brand Kryolan, students will acquire product knowledge in all mediums including stage, theatre, TV, beauty, fashion and catwalk make-up. The Lipstick Make up Institute offers 13 pioneering courses including Platinum and Gold Diploma Media Make Up Course.

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Talise scoops spa award

alise Spa at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, has been award “Best in the Middle East” by Spafinder Wellness 365. The winners were announced during the 2015 Wellness Travel Awards at a press event held at the World Travel Market in London. Inaugurated in 2014, the Wellness Travel Awards recognises the demand for healthier travel options and honour hotels, resorts, destination spas and retreats worldwide offering the best

wellness vacations and experiences. Winners were selected by a panel of 33 travel and wellness industry editors and experts, who nominated 504 properties for consideration before narrowing the field to finalists in 53 countries and regions, and by consumers who voted for their favourite locations across 20 categories. Awards were presented by Mia Kyricos, chief brand officer of Spafinder Wellness alongside Spafinder Wellness chief operating officer John Bevan, to

Body-building legion Morgan Aste, aka The Big Rock, launched Eric Favre’s clothing line in the UAE at a fitness event in Dubai last month. The natural food supplements, health, wellness, sports and beauty product specialist decided to bring the brand to the Middle East and reveal his collection at the event, the first Etisalat Fitness Fest, which took place at the Dubai Autodrome in November. With his super hero physique, (the strongest man in France weighs off season 160kg and 135kg during contest) The Big Rock performed

numerous challenges that left the crowd in awe. Eric Favre said “We are excited to bring the success of our clothing line in the United States to the United Arab Emirates and we couldn’t think of a better way to unveil it than to participate in this big fitness event. “Eric Favre Paris has been in the wellness, health, sports nutrition, beauty industry for more than 25 years now. And we think this is a good platform to engage directly with our audience and make them aware that our brand is available here in the region.”

the top properties in three categories: Crystal Awards, top properties on six (habitable) continents; Country/Region Awards, top properties in 43 countries/ regions; and Category. “We are honored to recognise the best in wellness travel from all corners of the globe,” said Kyricos. “Our objective is to help travellers identify options for their ideal wellness vacations, while also recognising the excellence and innovation that exists in this rapidly growing sector of the travel industry."

Big Rock partners with Eric Favre

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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16 Industry news from around the globe

Affordable on-demand treatment service set to launch in UK

new mobile treatment service is to launch in the UK next year, focused on making on-demand beauty treatments affordable and accessible to the masses. Zeebba, Persian for “beauty” will rollout across London in 2016 and offer female and male services including make-up and lashes, nail treatments, massages, waxing, tanning, facials and hair services. Founder Roxana MohammadianMolina said: “Bespoke, mobile beauty and grooming has been traditionally viewed as a luxury for the fortunate few; Zeebba seeks to make this an

accessible reality to the many. We all deserve to look our best.” Zeebba’s therapists are trained by The London Makeup School and The London Hair Academy, in addition to holding previous accreditations and qualifications, and they must complete trade tests before joining the service. Once accredited, the therapist’s or hairstylist’s profile will appear on the website with a short bio and photo. Therapists will visit clients at home, in the office or at a hotel between 7am and 11pm. Prices start from AED 110 for a basic manicure. Appointments are booked in three steps using Zeebba's website or app.

Workplace wellness to evolve as companies realise true cost of stress The nature of workplace wellness is set to evolve as companies and governments understand the impact of stress on productivity and the need for wellness to become integrated into company culture. According to the Wellness at Work Research Report, previewed at the Global Wellness Summit 2015 in Mexico the cost of unwellness at work is around AED 7trillion in the US alone. The report identified that there are 3.2 billion workers in the world and 87 per cent feel disengaged at work, with 38 per cent saying they are under excessive pressure. However, the researchers estimate that only 9 per cent of workers have access to any type of workplace wellness provision. Additionally, workplace wellness programmes focus more on wellness issues experienced outside of work, rather than admitting the effects that pressure in the workplace has on health, said the report’s researchers Ophelia Yeung (pictured) and Katherine Johnston. They predict that in the future, wellness at work will evolve because

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

governments will demand and oversee greater change, due to the cost implications of an ill workforce. Additionally, they predict that the workplace wellness programmes of today will disappear, replaced by a proper culture of wellness at work, that is integrated throughout the company, rather than driven by HR teams only. “Companies will realise that doing right by their employees and the community is doing good business,” said Yeung, adding that consumers in the millennial demographic will refuse to work for or buy from companies that don’t place sufficient importance on the health of their workers. The full report will be released in January.

Six Senses opens Alpine residences Six Senses Residences Courchevel is set to open its doors in the French Alpine ski resort this month. The property, which will be Six Senses’ first residential complex in Europe, will feature 53 apartments. The property will comprise a series of one, two and three-bedroom apartments, as well as penthouses with up to five bedrooms and their own private treatment rooms. The 10 penthouses will be up to 100sqm each and will offer panoramic views of the surrounding Alps. Facilities at the Six Senses Residences Courchevel will include a Six Senses Spa, scheduled for an autumn 2016 opening. The five-treatment room spa will include an indoor swimming pool, saunas, a relaxation area, a juice bar and a gym, complete with a studio for fitness and wellness classes. Treatments at the spa will range from signature massages and body treatments to facials and manicures and pedicures.    Neil Jacobs, chief executive of Six Senses, said: “We are delighted to be selected to manage Six Senses Residences Courchevel, the first fullyserviced residential development in Courchevel."

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20 The month in numbers

Average treatment room occupancy

Insider beauty, hair and nails

How did the treatment business in November 2015 compare with November 2014?

% BETTER

Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

% WORSE

NOVEMBER Encouragingly, average treatment room occupancy is hovering around the 70 per cent mark, like last month, and the number of clients rebooking is up by two per cent from last month. The majority of you also report an increase in year-on-year figures for treatment business. As compulsory health insurance for all businesses comes in next year, 80 per cent of you say you already offer this benefit to your staff. Looking forward to next year, many of you will be offering scrubs as you capitalise on the annual trend for New Year diets and detoxes.

Percentage of clients who rebooked

On the spot Which detox treatments will you offer this January? 1. Scrubs 2. Wraps 3. Massage 4. Undecided

pay for staff health insurance

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

What is the most important element of the salon experience? 1. Therapist’s skill 2. The treatment results 3. The salon décor 4. The welcome

insider

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21 The month in numbers

Average treatment room occupancy

Insider Spas Insider, our exclusive round-up of spa in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

How did the treatment business in November 2015 compare with November 2014?

60 40 % same

% better

NOVEMBER As the year draws to a close, business appears healthy with the majority of you revealing that treatment business is level with this time last year. Average treatment room occupancy has improved from last month and rebooking rates have rocketed from 46 per cent last month, to 67 per cent this month. Other figures reveal that 90 per cent of you offer your staff the benefit of health insurance and the majority of you believe that the therapist’s skill is the most important part of the spa experience. When it comes to your New Year detox treatments, the bulk of you are plumping to offer your guests detox massages.

Percentage of clients who rebooked

On the spot Which detox treatments will you offer this January? 1. Massage 2. Scrubs 3. Wraps 4. Undecided

What is the most important element of the spa experience? 1. Therapist’s skill 2. The treatment results 3. The welcome 4. The spa ambiance

pay for staff health insurance Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

make-up

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Needle know-how

The demand for semi-permanent make-up is growing. Zoe Moleshead gets the lowdown from two Dubai-based experts, Chloe Walsh and Candice Watson, on the what, why and how of this delicate treatment

What are the key considerations for a salon looking to introduce semipermanent make-up treatments?

got a certification from a reputable training centre for whatever treatments they are offering. The basic makeup course should have been a minimum of four days plus at least six months to a year of practicing before they Candice Watson: Make sure the person doing the semishould be charging full price for the treatments. These permanent make-up (also know as micropigmentation) treatments are very specific and require knowledge and has proper qualifications and is professionally licensed practice that can only be obtained by doing more of to do the work in the establishment they are doing it them, they also need to listen to their clients’ needs and in. Also ensure they can provide a portfolio of clients wants and be able to explain fully what they are doing that they have actually worked on, not just [images and how the colour reacts in the different skin tones of taken] from the Internet. If it is a salon and not a clinic each individual client. they must have been trained via a KHDA approved Chloe Walsh: Technicians really need to do their training centre, this then automatically gives research when deciding to take a career in this municipality approval to be done in a salon. "The main service. You, or your staff, should train with The salon must also add the activity to reason for brows a well-known, reputable firm who offer is to create the their license. intense training. Unfortunately, and scarily, perfect shape and there are some cheap courses out there, ﬁll in any gaps where How can salons ascertain that which are not regulated and it is not ideal hair may not grow anymore" the pigments and machinery to train with them when you are working so closely with clients’ delicate facial areas. they are purchasing are of a

high quality?

Candice: The machines used here in the UAE should be machines that have been registered, which are mainly German manufactured and are digital, not rotary machines. All needles should be pre-sterile blister packed and are strictly one use only and then disposed of after every treatment. Pigments must also be approved and not permanent inks.

What training should technicians undergo in order to be experienced in providing such treatments? Candice: Technicians providing these treatments should have either a beauty or tattooing background, or nursing qualifications, and should have completed and

How does semi-permanent make-up differ from permanent make-up? Chloe: Semi-permanent make-up/permanent makeup is more or less the same thing. The reason people get confused is that even though it fades on some clients, there may always be a slight bit of pigment left in the skin, which if you look closely you can see. We can’t guarantee that the pigment will 100 per cent “disappear” because every skin type is different and it is also dependent on how the client looks after the area — i.e. excessive exposure to UV rays, medication, and so forth. We recommend maintenance around every 12 months to keep the colour looking fresh.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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make-up

25 Before

How popular are semi-permanent make-up treatments? Chloe: Eyebrows are extremely popular!! Eyeliners are very popular as they are great for people who swim/ go to the beach and who can’t apply their own eyeliner. Lips are also becoming very popular as cosmetic make-up can really help to enhance the natural lip contour.

After

Candice: Semi-permanent make-up and permanent make-up are in fact one and the same in technical terms, however, in layman’s terms (to the client) the procedure if done correctly, using approved and good quality pigments, is a semi-permanent procedure. The colour will last between one and three years, dependent on the skin type and the amount of sun it is exposed to (generally in UAE they will need a re-touch every year as the sun is so strong and constant). The actual molecules if looked at under a microscope will stay in the skin forever but the colour will go, hence technically it is both permanent and semi-permanent. If a technician tells you the colour will last several years or more then they are using a permanent body tattoo ink which is strictly not allowed on the face, not only here in the UAE but most other countries. The body tattoo pigments all contain blue as the base hue colour as blue is indelible and the only colour to last in the skin forever. These pigments are not designed for the face and should never be used for semi-permanent make-up; a blue eyebrow or lip is a bad look!

What are the reasons clients might consider having semi-permanent make-up? Chloe: The main reason for brows is to create the perfect shape and fill in any gaps where hair may not grow anymore. A lot of clients don’t want to have to “fill” in their brows every day so this is another reason why clients choose to have this done. For eyes also, this is a great way to enhance them without having to apply make-up every day. The reason clients have lips done is mainly to enhance the perfect shape of the lip. Candice: Semi-permanent make-up or medical micro pigmentations can be done for so many different reasons and for so many people. For make-up, especially in Dubai where everyone is so busy and has no time, it saves time on applying make-up, along with of course never smudging or melting off your skin in the hot months; many sporty people benefit from this also and we generally try to keep the treatments looking very natural rather than bold and fake. Semi-permanent make-up should be an enhancement of your features and not a replacement of heavy make-up.

What semi-permanent make-up treatments are available/do you offer? Candice: I offer all make up treatments (eyebrows, eyeliner, eyelash enhancement, lip line, full lip colour, colour correction and beauty spot). I also offer all medical micropigmentation including 3D areola treatments, vitiligo, scars and burn treatments and scalp hair follicle simulation for both men and women. Chloe: Sisters offers eyebrows with the natural “hair strokes” or powdered effect, eyeliners/eyelash enhancements and lip enhancements.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Eyebrows by Candice Watson

Before

Prior to treating a client, what should technicians discuss with them? Candice: In the consultation there should be questions of medical history, any medication they are on (this can affect the pigment) and the treatment should be fully explained [in terms of] what is going to happen before, during and after the treatment along with aftercare instructions. The pain should be minimal through the use of numbing creams but not always completely comfortable. Treatment time should be explained and the also they should be aware of the fact that they will need at least one re-touch about one month later to complete the treatment. Chloe: A consultation is very important in this line of work. It’s great to see the area you will work on before you go ahead with the treatment. You should see the colour that is suitable for the skin type, you should have explained thoroughly what will happen throughout the treatment, what you need to do before the treatment, how the area will look immediately after the treatment and then discuss aftercare. The price should also be discussed so the client knows what to expect. It

Candice Watson is the founder of Exclusive Beauty and a specialist in semi-permanent make-up treatments. She trained and worked in Harley Street, London, UK and carries out treatments in Dubai at the London Centre for Aesthetic Surgery (LCAS). exclusivebeautyuae.com

is important the technician understands the clients’ expectations and reasons why they have chosen this service so she can really meet their expectations.

What after-care considerations are there for clients? Chloe: The main thing is to be careful when out in the sun — always use a good SPF and try and cover the area. The area will look darker/sharper immediately after but will soften and fade after a few days. There may be a slight sensation of itching and dryness around the area during the healing process but this is very normal and hardly noticeable. I always offer my clients an aftercare balm to apply for the week after the initial treatment. Candice: The healing time is usually between 3-5 days before the colour fades and they can stop using the aftercare cream, but the redness and swelling (should they get any) will only last around two hours, maximum 24 hours. No water can be used for at least 24 hours on the area and sun, steam or any heat treatment should be avoided for around seven days. PB

Chloe Walsh is an experienced specialist cosmetic make-up artist whose career has spanned the UK and UAE. She is a fully qualified brow and semi-permanent makeup specialist and carries out all her semipermanent treatments at Sisters Beauty Lounge salons in the UAE. @clobrowsdubai / chloe@sistersbeautylounge.com

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Ask the Experts

Our beauty professionals answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business How should one go about putting together a Standard Operating Procedures manual for a spa and what key areas should it adress?

tandard Operating Procedures (SOPs) are the most valuable document your business will ever own. It is a tool to ensure precision in the performance of your staff and the service provided within your facility. The way I begin putting together an SOP for a spa or wellness centre is by understanding the nature of the business at hand. You must first understand what you are describing the steps to, before you can actually write about them. The details must offer the reader an in-depth understanding of how the spa is operated as well as knowledge of how the business will be run. If your SOPs are for a spa in the pre-opening stage, as the writer, you must have extensive experience in the spa industry and a clear vision of the way you, or the operator of the spa, want the tasks and services to be performed. If the location is already operational, an in depth analysis of the existing operation is the first step. Sit, watch, listen, evaluate, and then write. Behind this must be the expertise and spa business know-how of the writer. The writer must also be able to understand and identify the dos and don’ts of what constitutes professional behaviour, exceptional service standards as well as have an objective eye on how a staff member should perform the protocols. Every step of the workday becomes your SOP document. The SOPs incorporate a step-by-step guide to operations from the moment you open the doors to your spa in the morning until you lock-up at the end of the day. Everything in between this timeframe makes up the different chapters of your SOPs. The SOP must be self-explanatory in itself, in that any experienced therapist, technician and even manager will be able to operate the spa facility and

perform the basic services coherently and easily. The first steps to your SOP are looking at staff conduct, rules and regulations within the work environment, preparing for your work day, greeting your guest, guiding and treating your guest, ending the ritual, closing the sale, rebooking and sending your guest off. One must also include procedures for operating any equipment used in a treatment. This must be demonstrated and indicated clearly in the SOP. Any and all contraindications to the services must be identified and listed as well. Another very important part of the SOP is safety and hygiene. Every spa needs to have safety standards and guidelines that must be identified for all staff to follow, whether it is for safety in manipulating spa equipment or how to handle an evacuation during a fire. The staff must be given the steps to be taken in such events so they know what must be done. Hygiene is also often overlooked yet it is one of the most important protocols to be followed by any spa staff. This should include how to sterilise equipment and all tools must be clearly indicated in the SOP. Don’t forget to mention how important it is for the staff to constantly wash their hands. SOPs are vital to any business. For the spa industry they are the guidelines used to guarantee the professionalism your facility will deliver to its clientele and ultimately to increasing revenue through increased customer satisfaction. Without your SOPs it’s like walking though your business with a blindfold on!

Miriam Seferian is the founder and consultant of Shenkha, a UAE-based spa concept and project development company. Her extensive career has seen her consult on spa and wellness projects around the globe.

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30 I’m looking to introduce a range of supplements for clients, particularly those that are beneficial to the skin. What should I be looking for in a supplement range?

kin problems can have significant impact on quality of life and psychological wellbeing. Vibrant, healthy skin has a youthful glow, good colouring and a smooth, unblemished look. However, unhealthy skin can look sallow, tired, wrinkled and

old. No one wants unhealthy skin, but since so many people fail to understand its causes, far too many people are suffering from it. Various things can result in unhealthy skin but the main causes are unhealthy diet, an ineffectual cleansing routine, poor lifestyle habits, pollution, stress and excessive exposure to the sun. To better protect the skin against all these factors, one needs to maintain a healthy balance from inside and outside. One way to do that is to take in antioxidants via a supplement. Eric Favre Parisincorporates one of nature’s super antioxidants, the pine bark extract into its food supplements. Pine bark extract is extracted from the inner bark of pine trees. The extract contains active compounds, which include powerful antioxidants oligomeric proanthocyanidin compounds (OPCs). OPCs contain some of the most potent antioxidants available. These antioxidants provided by the pine bark extract help to diminish the destructive effects of free radicals and may help repair skin damage. Such a food supplement provides an integrated skincare approach.

Virginie Mounier is the co-founder of the Eric Favre laboratory. She has developed the company alongside Eric Favre for 20 years in France and internationally and has held several positions from the company.

What’s the secret to sculpting the perfect pink and white?

here are a few ways to make sure you get a good finish every time and make fewer mistakes. First off, make sure you use the right forms for you, whether you prefer reusable or free forms. You also want to make sure the form fits perfectly underneath the free edge of the nail with no gaps and no movement. Once this is in place you can start sculpting. Find the easiest way to sculpt for you – do you prefer to sculpt the white first or apply the pink first? Either way, make sure you perfect the smile line. If applying the pink first you can always file the smile line to really neaten it up to get an airbrush-look finish. If you’re applying the white first, make sure that you don’t have too much monomer on your brush. If your bead is too wet you won’t have any control over it and it will be really difficult to sculpt with. Always ensure your apex is in the right place to protect the stress area; this is so important to the look of the nail as well as the health of the natural nail.

As well as technique, the perfect brush is so important. I find the OPI 2 piece Artist Series a great brush to sculpt Acrylic with as it has 100 per cent natural kolinski bristles, which helps to really retain the monomer to pick up the perfect bead.

Bryony McMillan is an OPI educator and also a member of the brand’s “A team”, an expert team of three top techs who work on events and give advice.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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32 What advice can you offer us for retailing make-up in our salon?

or make-up to be successful in a salon it's important to reserve a dedicated area, identifying it through specially studied make-up displays, as well as a make-up mirror and chair to perform make-up services in combination with sales service. In addition to displays of trendy collections, which are essential to meet the demands of the fashion market, we also recommend that the make-up display unit include most of the product range. Furthermore a smaller displayer − a make-up square − should include key elements of the range. Also bestseller displays are essential. They should focus on a single type of product and be placed on the counter near the cash desk to stimulate impulse buying. It's very important to maintain clean display units and products. Not only does this make them attractive to the eyes of a consumer, but also it is important for reasons of hygiene. It is necessary to clean these items often and replace used, damaged or compromised products. For hygiene reasons, it is always recommended to apply a product on customers with specific make-up brushes and once you have finished using the brushes always clean them with care. Tiziana Pezzolesi Bizzocchi is Eva Garden’s research and development director.

Is hair colouring in pregnancy advisable? Our clients are keen to retain their stylish look, and locks, in pregnancy but I’m unsure what approach to take to ensure they are safe.

his topic is important and it all depends on the doctor’s advice for each client. Some doctors forbid any kind of colouration to be done for pregnant women on the scalp, or off the scalp, as a precaution to ammonia being absorbed through the skin or the respiratory system. On the other hand, some doctors allow their patients to colour their hair only if the hair colouring product is 100 per cent ammonia free and also fragrance free. If this is the case, L’Oréal Professionnel’s INOA hair colour and Platinium Ammonia-Free highlighting products are ideal solutions for these clients, since they are both 100 per cent ammonia free, scent free and they don’t

evaporate. As mentioned before, addressing this area [pregnancy] is very critical and the approval of a doctor is a must before using any ammonia-free products on your client. I would recommend giving a sample of the product to the client so she can show it to her doctor and ask for his/her written approval.

Naim Nahed is the regional education manager for L’Oréal Professionnel. He has 20 years experience in hairdressing, including 10 years as a creative director, and loves inspiring fellow hairdressers to achieve their best.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Jolly

holiday Learn how to make the festive season a business opportunity with our handy guide on selling, promotions and retail displays Seasonal selling Claire Gittus is general manager of Aspire Beauty Trading with many years experience in the beauty industry. She walks us through how to increase seasonal retail sales.

herever you are in the world there is always that great feeling at the change of any season, when the malls and shops start getting in all the new colours and designs for

the months ahead. So it always surprises me when salons and spas don’t capitalise on the same seasonal opportunity of retailing and promotions. When our clients are already in that mindset, we should be jumping on the back of the small fortune these large brands have spent on marketing

seasons and our mood, so you have to factor this in when thinking of your promotions and retail opportunities. For example, it’s no good putting a pedicure and flip flop promotion on in December! Selling doesn’t come naturally to most therapists so training and in depth product knowledge is key. Suggest they talk to the clients! Discussing and pinpointing the promotions available is important as the clients may not be aware of what’s on offer. Therapists should be motivated to want the best for their clients whether that is up selling a better service that is more suitable to them, or making sure they get the best deal on the day. Finally, always remember more sales means more turnover for the business and possibly the therapist!

these yearly occasions that can increase your revenue considerably.

Being switched on and aware of seasonal trends can be a key advantage for your business. It’s all about understanding the needs of your clients and providing services and products that they will be excited about. You can find great success during the seasonal periods by simply making a few small adjustments to ongoing services and offering retail solutions to different types of clients, from those with limited time and budget to those willing to embrace the whole new season, but the main thing is don’t let it pass you buy and lose out on that potential growth of revenue. Think about the time of year and be conscious of your clients' needs and demands. It may be that express services work well with homecare solutions for those short on time. It may be gift ideas; take the stress away from the client, ensuring they don’t have to trail the malls for ideas. It may be travel companions to make travelling easier and lighter not only on the luggage, but on the pocket with multipurpose products. In the meantime the weather also plays a large part in the

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

Top tips for seasonal selling success • Have a selling hot spot in the salon/spa so that clients get used to seeing the latest promotions. • Incorporate your promotion with the season. For example, at the festive period you may have “the little black dress” promotion. • Advertise on social media. • Include the weather and colours of the season to make it current and eye-catching to the client. • Look at what’s worked in the past.

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Presents and promotions Salina Handa is founder and managing director of SensAsia Urban Spa, a chain that “goes big” on seasonal promotions. She tell us her secrets to success.

e always go big on the festive

experience, you can do anything you want, spend significant

season. We know our clients wait

money on campaigning but if your FoH is not on board and/

for, and are excited about, our

or equipped with the right sales tools, you run the risk of

promotions at this time of year. It’s

disappointing sales figures.

the only promotion we work on way

Assess past data. If it didn’t perform last time, establish

in advance. Our calendar dates have been set all year, and

what went wrong and don’t repeat your mistakes. Look at

so has the marketing mix.

past consumer trends within your own facility, then look out

This year were are offering SensAsia Christmas gift

to the market. With today's technology, capturing and using

vouchers which can be purchased against any of our

consumer data can increase the power of your marketing

award-winning facials, massages and body treatments,

programme significantly. Whether you ask the guest for their

including the latest launches. Vouchers bear a beautiful

information before or after their spa visit, the importance is to

bow and tailored tag with the gift-giver’s choice of six cute

capture it. You can then plan your marketing messages

Christmas messages, such as “Thank you... you’re spa-

accordingly. Discounts work very well in the short term, but

tacular”, “To the most super dooper spa-vellous mum” and

that doesn't buy you the loyalty that you need to build a

“You made Santa’s nice list.” SensAsia has created

strong clientele. Discounting on series sales can also work

incentives for spa Santas too, and for every AED 400 spent

really well in hotels or facilities where the guest is less likely to

on making somebody else’s festive season more serene,

repeat their visit. Value additions work very well. Everyone

SensAsia will award the gift-giver a AED 100 voucher to

likes to feel they’ve got more than they went in for.

spend on themselves. We are also offering corporate Christmas gifting solutions that boast huge rewards for bulk buys. Companies (or individuals!) purchasing AED 10,000 of festive gift vouchers will receive a 10 per cent discount, plus 35 SensAsia Oil Burners as an added employee treat. When AED 15,000 is spent, the discount goes up to 15 per cent, plus 35 SensAsia Oil Burners and a AED 25,000 total earns the gift-giver a free two-hour pop-up spa to treat the team to mini massages in their place of work. When planning your promotions, create linked sales by incorporating merchandise and related seasonal offerings into your promotions. Most importantly, and ironically where

Top tips for promotions success

the least amount of focus is often spent in this industry, is your Front of House. The team handling the spa’s Front of House (FoH) is key in determining any promotional success. You have to get their buy in. They have to be sold to first. They have to genuinely believe in, and see the value in, every offer, promotion and new launch you introduce. FoH staff should be trained on scenarios, scripts, consumer behaviour,

• The names of treatments and promotions have to be catchy and relevant. • Get Front of House staff on-board • Value additions work very well • Train staff • Allow lead time in between promotions

brand intentions, benefits and key selling descriptions. In my

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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An initial client consultation is a must. Try to find out if they have any specific hair and scalp issues they want to address. Oiliness, flakiness, unmanageable hair and itchy scalp are all issues common in the region, which can be balanced through regular detoxing.

Clip the hair up but don’t cover, and leave on for 20 minutes. The client will feel a tingling sensation in the scalp which is the effect of the natural peppermint.

restore beauty to the hair as well as soothe irritated scalps. Apply fortnightly for best results and your clients will be on their way to healthy hair growth full of vitality and beauty. Our Hair & Scalp Detox can be applied in-salon and at home, with product available for both salon and retail customers. Here’s a little ‘how to’ on getting the best from the product…

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Decorate and display Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon. Dubbed the “Queen of Colour” by her fashionista clients, Maria Dowling has been in the hair business for over 20 years, having successfully opened the Middle East’s first colour specialist salon in 2002. She tells us how she captilises on retail displays during the festive period.

he festive season is a particularly busy time for

tasteful and within your brand guidelines. For example, we try to

mariadowling salon (and I would hope for most

stay within the mariadowling colours of orange and black, with a

salons in the region)! Not only are our clients

little bit of silver. Our signage, our Christmas cards and gift

keen to perfect their colour and style before they

vouchers are all designed to be very noticeably mariadowling.

jet off overseas or attend that important festive

We decorate the reception simply, with selected Christmas

party, but they’re also thinking of ideas for gifts for friends and loved ones.

ornaments and keep our signage modest. A great seasonal touch that has worked for us every year is

While retail isn’t the main part of a salon’s business, it plays an

creating a Christmas gift tree for all of our customers. From 2

important part in your “bottom line” so maximising its potential

December until Christmas Eve, every client who visits the salon

during seasonal festivities is essential. Why? Despite being

has a chance to win some pampering products. They’re invited

tough times for everyone, those celebrating (and often those

to pick a Christmas card from the tree before they leave and

who aren’t!) are much more inclined to spend on gifting, without

some cards have a “congratulations” written inside, which

too much thought. It’s the thought that counts, correct? The

means they can pick a goody bag from under the tree. It really

thought of having to think of something unique to buy for each

creates great excitement over the month of December and

and every friend and family member can be a burden so we can

allows us to give something back to our clients who have been

take that stress away by offering clients a solution.

loyal to us all year.

Retail displays in general are important to every business. They draw the customer in and can often generate an impulse purchase purely because they catch the eye. Make sure you put all of your products on display. Check your stock to see what you have and get it on the shelves. Change things around so clients see different products in areas they may not have looked at before. In my experience, when you move products to a busy area, things start to move. Clean and tidy shelves. Get extra stock in but don’t overcrowd the area. I always stock my products using the same technique as a supermarket. I don’t do displays but I’m very fussy that the lines of products are straight, and at eye level. When the product moves, I replace it quickly. If something isn’t selling or you have excess stock, create pretty gift baskets, to make them look more attractive. If a customer thinks they can solve their “what to buy for that aunt

Top tips for seasonal retail displays • Keep it simple – leave the talking reindeers for Santa’s grotto.

who has everything” dilemma in one festive purchase then a gift

• No cheap, old or torn ornaments/decorations –

basket could be on the agenda. Gift vouchers are also important

just because you’ve brought it out for the past

and we sell a lot of these over the festive period.

ten years, doesn’t mean to say you have to keep it

Talk to your client about what their Christmas plans are, who they’ve still got to buy for and make suggestions that might help. It’s also a good idea to have some point of sale signage at each of the styling chairs, telling them “don’t forget to check out our retail collection for festive gifts”. I always think it is far better to receive a gift that you can use and salon products are still

for another ten! If in doubt, throw it out. • Move the products around regularly and keep the popular pieces at eye level. • Keep within your brand guidelines. If you’re a simple, clean brand, avoid over-the-top sparkles. • Catch them at the chair – customers spend the

regarded as a luxury. From experience, hairbrushes always work

majority of their time in their chair so give them some

well as gifts, as do conditioning treatments.

point-of-sale material to look at.

Don’t go overboard! There’s a time and a place for festive lifesized Santas and tinsel — a salon is not one of them! Keep it

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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All that glitters We have the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best gifts all wrapped up Elemis Elemis is offering six gorgeous gift sets for both men and women, meaning that there is something for everyone. The Forever Frangipani Collection cleanses, nourishes and conditions for smooth and supple skin. It includes The Frangipani Monoi Shower Cream, Frangipani Monoi Body Oil and Frangipani Monoi Body Cream.

Omorovicza This introductory Christmas set is the perfect starter kit for skincare on-the go. The gift set contains five bestselling products, which have been handpicked for their deep cleansing, brightening and energising effects. Each product works in conjunction with the others, to awaken the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true beauty. The Deep Cleansing Mask actively re-energises and brightens the skin as it draws out impurities. The Queen of Hungary Mist gives a hydrating energising burst. The Thermal Cleansing Balm removes impurities or make-up without stripping the skin. The Cleansing Foam leaves skin clean and refreshed and the Balancing Moisturiser provides long-lasting hydration.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

Jane Iredale In the Blink of a Smoky Eye Kit is a limited edition, modern eye shadow palette developed to create quick and easy looks for every event of the season. Bone is a matte, creamy nude, Pure Gold is a shimmery, bright gold while Dawn is a shimmery, rose brown. Rose Gold is also a shimmery hue while Iris is a matte, cool violet. Forest is a deep green matte shade and Double Espresso is a matte, cool brown. Ebony, a matte pure black colour completes the kit which also bears instructions for the user on how to create several party looks.

festive focus

Germaine de Capuccini This opulent looking collection contains three bestsellers from Germaine de Capuccini. Excel Therapy O2 Essential Youthfulness Cream corrects the signs of ageing, Repair Night Progress Eye Serum, containing more than 60 per cent of active ingredients, will revitalise and illuminate the eye contour, and finally Essential Cleansing Oil will kick start a good at home skincare routine.

Alessandro Alessandro Snowball Hand cream offers seasonal indulgence for the hands. Snowball is a hand cream that has been specially developed for the cold season, which gives hands all the nourishment they need on cooler days. Grape seed oil and cocoa butter make skin silky smooth. Vitamin E pearls melt away as the cream is absorbed into skin, releasing intensely nourishing active ingredients. The fragrance of orange, with Christmas spices such as cloves and cinnamon, as well as a whiff of cardamom and coriander has an enlivening effect, promoting the festive mood in an instant.

Voya Voyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Limited Edition Christmas Spice Diffuser has a distinctive aroma that will fill the room with therapeutic soothing festivity, refreshing orange and warming cinnamon. Meanwhile its uplifting Limited Edition Spice Candle blends notes of refreshing orange and warming cinnamon with a dash of clove. Voya is also offering a bespoke gift wrapping service.

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Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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nail interview

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Leading lady Rita Remark, global lead educator for Essie, talks nail trends and the importance of learning on her recent Dubai visit Tell us a bit about your background both in the nail industry and with Essie? I started out in the industry as a make-up artist and while I was building my portfolio, I enrolled in an aesthetics course to complement my work in beauty. It was there that I fell in love with the world of manicures and nail art – I had finally found my favourite palette! Once I completed my necessary nail courses, I left the training programme and started work as a full time nail tech. I knew early on that nail art was growing in popularity so I always made sure to practice new techniques and offer trendy and fresh design options for my clients. In my fourth year in the industry I began to get requests to work on-set for fashion and beauty shoots. I also began working backstage, polishing hands for the runway at Toronto Fashion Week. The recognition and attention I started to receive gained momentum, which ultimately led to my being approached by the Essie Canada team — within weeks I was named their Lead Nail Artist! Ever since that day in 2012 it’s been a colourful blur. I've worked six seasons designing nails backstage at New York Fashion Week, travelled across North America and abroad, polished celebrities, athletes and supermodels, led nail art workshops and even went back to school — this time as a teacher. It's been an amazing journey and the perfect preparation for my current global position.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

What does your role as global lead educator for entail? As the global lead educator I have the amazing opportunity to lend a voice to the brand. I do this in many ways, some examples being translating seasonal colours into fashionable nail art looks, explaining our products and how to properly use and apply them, working with designers at Fashion Week to create trendsetting designs for the runway and providing Essie manicures on set for editorial and beauty photoshoots. One of the best parts of my job is getting the chance to meet and work with manicurists around the world. I get my best inspiration from travelling and meeting my industry peers; it's an incredible way to share (and learn!) new skills and techniques.

What trends can we expect to see for the upcoming season?

For Spring/Summer 2016, look forward to vivid, saturated colours like Essie’s Bold Butler please or even a gothic, moody shade like Devil’s Advocate. Avoid frosty or jewel toned shades. If clients like to wear nail art, opt for subtle graphics, rather than detailed masterpieces. Try adding a simple stripe down the centre of the nail or glitter just at the moon. These add a trendy finishing touch that can be worn for work or play.

What about nail shapes? What's the current look salons should be offering?

This season, nails lengths are getting shorter and more natural. I'd recommend offering softer square or "squoval" shapes to clients. A shorter length is great for bold colour and design because it will never be too overpowering.

l l

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nail interview

Where do you draw inspiration from?

Recently, I’ve found most of my inspiration in unique colour combinations. I am always taking photos of random things that catch my eye like wallpaper, textiles, tabletops, posters or book covers. If they use colours in a unique or striking manner, I love re-imagining them on nails. Nail art popularity has reached such a peak that I’m constantly on the hunt for something new or that hasn’t been done. I constantly strive for unconventional inspiration. Avoiding the Internet and social media is helpful. It keeps my work fresh, not repetitive.

Is this your first trip to the UAE? What have you discovered about nail trends here? This is my first UAE experience and it has been incredible! Similar to the west, UAE nail trends are rooted in fashion. Women want to be of-the-moment with their hair and makeup and their nails are no different! Having a manicure that reflects a current sense of style and personality - that's key!

Nail art has become increasingly popular in the UAE in recent years, to what do you attribute its continuing appeal?

It's versatile! Nail art and nail colour in general is a fantastic way to accentuate your personality and your outfit. Because trends are always changing and there are always new looks walking down the runway, it's safe to say nail art itself is no longer a "trend" but rather an ever-evolving fixture in the fashion/beauty world.

You've worked on many high profile fashion shows, what is it like working in that environment and how do you handle the need to be both fast and precise in your work? Backstage is a tightly packed, buzzing and overwhelming environment. You quickly learn that you've got to stay calm, focused and be adaptable to keep up with the flow. When I’m manicuring backstage, I always tell my team that it’s all about efficiency and only doing what is necessary. The idea is not to provide spalike manicures, but to quickly problem-solve any minor issues and apply flawless polish. For instance, if the nails and cuticles are in good shape don't manicure, just polish! If the cuticles are dry – just add cuticle oil!

What advice would you offer aspiring nail artists and technicians?

Never stop learning. Keep up with current trends, be willing to try new techniques and new products. Ours is an industry that is always changing, evolving and improving. If you get too stuck in your ways, you'll be left behind!

Essie has a fantastic and continually evolving line up of products — but which are your favourites?

My favourite colour changes on a weekly basis (I'm currently obsessed with the Essie Silk Watercolor collection), but I know that I would be blue without my Apricot Cuticle Oil, Matte About You Topcoat and Quick-E Dry Drops. Those three products are my manicure superheroes!

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Competitive edge Sonette Van Rensburg advises competitors on what to expect at the Professional Beauty GCC 2016 Nail Competition

articipating in a competition is by no means an easy task to undertake and can be quite challenging if you are not fully prepared or donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know what to expect. Read our handy checklist to help you achieve success.

Pre-competition planning Entry: Firstly obtain an entry form. Choose the category which best suits your skills and abilities. Do not choose something with which you are not comfortable; you need to know what you are doing in order to stand a chance of being placed. Rules & regulations: Visit www.professionalbeauty.ae and make sure you read and understand all the rules and regulations of the competition thoroughly. It is important to adhere to them, as they have been set out for a reason, and in accordance with international standards. Availability: Check your availability and do not plan anything else for that day. A lot of planning goes into organising a competition. Staff and judges set time aside to be there for as long as they need to be and so should you and your model. To execute a fair, unbiased judging process takes time and cannot be rushed, so try to be patient; it is a long day for everyone involved.

Location: Make sure you know where the competition is taking place and what time it starts. If you are unsure contact the organisers of the event. The times for the competition have been set according to a strict schedule and cannot change; if you are late you will not be able to enter. Model: Finding a model can sometimes be the biggest challenge a competitor can face, and is also the most important part of competing. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t leave it to the last minute, and always have a back-up just in case your model lets you down. Make sure that they are reliable, committed, and are willing to be there for the entire day, until after the judging and awards ceremony has taken place. Practice: Practise, practise, practise. This definitely should not be left to the last minute. Start at least four to six weeks prior to the competition. If you have competed before, and have your previous score sheet, use the judgesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; comments to improve on any areas of weakness. Work at perfecting each and every criterion by paying careful attention to detail and being very critical of your own work. Be organised: Make sure you are well organised by preparing a packing list of all the products and items you will require in order to compete. You should be as well prepared as you would be in your salon, so make sure you take everything you need to the competition. Also, take a lamp, as unfortunately the competition lighting is not always the best.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Competition day Competition set-up: Arrive earlier than stipulated, so that you can register and prepare your work area, and use your checklist to make sure you have everything packed out and ready according to the criteria and requirements for the competition. Pre-judging: Even though competitors know the criteria for pre-judging, some may think it is not necessary to adhere to them fully and that they can make up the points with their main judging criteria – do not get caught unawares without the necessary items and products. The criteria should not be new or uncommon to anyone in the professional industry and should be standard requirements and practices that are carried out in your salons anyway. Floor marshals will judge competitors on criteria such as: Appearance: Whether you wear a uniform or smart business attire, dress professionally and look neat and tidy. Work area set-up: It is important to make sure that all the required products are ready and set out in a neat, professional and orderly manner prior to the competition starting. Products: All items and products should be set out neatly and professionally, be in their original containers and bottles, and be clearly marked so it can be seen what the technician is using. Containers should be clean and well presented, and the area should not be cluttered with unnecessary products or items. Do not leave products open to spill. Safety procedures: Observing health and safety is important to make sure that the competitor is not at risk of being exposed to anything harmful.. We recommend that you wear safety glasses, or even a surgical mask to prevent overexposure to chemicals and vapours. Use hand-sanitisers and dispose of cotton and paper liners constantly during the

competition. Consultation: You are expected to complete a consultation form with all the relevant and necessary information. Sanitation and hygiene: Some form of disinfection system is required and needs to be visible at your table. Anti-bacterial soap, spray bottle, hand-sanitiser, disinfectant liquid and soaking unit, implement storage unit, clean fresh towels, salon place mat, small bin and not a plastic bag, any other items to make sure it shows that you take “Universal Sanitation” and hygiene seriously. Professionalism: Contestants and models must behave in a professional manner throughout the competition. Should you or your model need to leave the competition area, you will be escorted by a competition official. However, your time cannot be made up. Time management: Creating perfectly flawless work in a competition environment is an entirely different situation than when you are in the salon. Planning and managing your time makes all the difference – use your time wisely by spending it on the most important aspects of your work that need to be perfected. Judging criteria: Understand and know the judging criteria for your particular category really well. You need to know exactly what is expected of you. These criteria are very specific to each category and are in place for the competitor’s own benefit. These include the requirements and criteria for the pre-judging as well. As you work check yourself against the criteria that have been given and whether you have fulfilled it or not, and pay careful attention to detail and neatness, this will help to guide you in the right direction.

Sonette Van Rensburg has more than 24 years experience in the nail industry. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: Sonette@professionalbeauty.ae Professional Beauty GCC 2016 Nail Competition 1 February • Nail Art Competition (prepared in advance and handed in at the event) • Perfect Polish – 1 1/2 hours 2 February • Tip Overlay Competition – Liquid & Powder/ Gel - Novice – 3 hrs - Intermediate – 2 1/2 hrs • Sculpting Competition – Liquid & Powder/Gel - Intermediate - Professionals Cost: AED 180 / US$49 per category. 50 per cent discount if you book by 21 December Register at: www.professionalbeauty.ae Deadline: 20 January 2016 More information and the competition pack can be found at: www.professionalbeauty.ae/compete

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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It’s good to talk

Effective communication is the linchpin of any successful team, says Maria Dowling

henever anyone asks me the secret of my success I always start with singing the praises of my team. Without a good team, I would be one individual trying to play so many

roles…and badly! In any team, it’s essential to keep the lines of communication open, honest and consistent. Communicating the goals of

Hold weekly meetings

Put it in writing

Every Saturday morning I call a quick half hour meeting before we open the doors to talk about targets and if we are meeting them, experiences – good and bad – and any other events that might have happened. It’s important we share our knowledge and our experiences to learn from others. We also discuss what we have coming up for the following week. During the meeting we share any customer complaints (which are rare) we’ve had that week, discuss ways in which they could have been avoided and more importantly how to ensure they don’t happen again.

I have a mariadowling customer service guideline manual which is given to every new staff member. It covers the process of the customer’s experience from arriving at the reception to leaving with fabulous looking hair! It’s important to be clear on the expectations from the salon in terms of customer service, from the reception area, to the stylists and assistants. When it is in writing, there is no ambiguity.

Share the trends

Fashion and catwalk trends, street style and celebrity trends in hair are so important when you’re a stylist and colourist. I have a mood and fashion board in our staff room, which we update weekly, talking about that “week in hair!” Which celebrity is wearing which colour or style, what we’ve seen on the catwalk and also what we see on the streets of Dubai. Likewise, if I or any of my team travel, I expect them to come back with heaps of photos and information on international street style, which can help us enormously in predicting what our clients will be asking for that season.

your business will help to bring the team closer together and create a great atmosphere, which will then reflect on your clients and their overall experience. A team doesn’t evolve on its own, it needs to be nurtured and encouraged, otherwise you will have a group of individuals working at their own agenda with little interaction or support. Here are my five tips for effective communication:

One-to-ones are important

Everyone has a role to play in the team

As well as this weekly get together, I have a monthly meeting with each of my stylists, on a one-to-one basis. We discuss how many regular clients and new clients they have seen over that month, which gives me an idea of how they are building their clientele. We look at the stylist’s area of weakness and address it. We also discuss targets and client increases (or decreases!), which product that team member is selling the most of, and whether they (and I) feel they need extra training. I want to see a busy bookings column with regular, repeat clients for all my stylists. This is the only way you can expand your business, in the knowledge that your team are self-sufficient.

How my staff members are interacting with the other members of the team is an important issue. Our philosophy is that everyone is equal in the salon, and each of us helps the other to do a great job. During our meetings I discuss any problems between staff members and resolve issues that have arisen. It takes time and effort to get the information together for both our weekly and monthly meetings but the results speak for themselves, and our clients appreciate the great atmosphere, slick customer service and highly trained stylists. After all, a happy team is a happy salon.

Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 42 25.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Spotlight on spa speakers Our monthly catch up with key speakers from the 2016 Professional Spa and Wellness Convention. This month, we feature Sharon Barcock Why is The Art and Science of Spa Budgeting and Business Planning a topic you want to speak on?  As operators we have not just a responsibility to ourselves but also to our owners to be responsible business managers. The spa is no different to any other business in the sense that it is a revenue generating business. Spa managers have limited resources regarding driving business, and understanding the various financial nuances of the business, and I think it is important that we continue to educate and evolve the skillset of spa managers.

What would you like the audience to take away from this session? Facts and statistics that open their minds and understanding of the spa business, relevant and useful information and tools that they can take back to their spas and put into practice to improve their performance.

What can we expect from your presentation?

Some very relevant information from key spa operators, and some very practical tools that are simple to implement.

What industry changes would you like to see in 2016? The industry needs to communicate more openly, sharing best practice, performance and challenges. We need to build networks to create support structures for spa teams. Most importantly, we need to create spas that are relevant and viable.

What have been the most important spa industry developments in the last few years?

Spas have become more focused on the wellness component of the business and the reason why our guests are really coming to the spa, therefore understanding the need for a complete head-to-toe approach and that the spa is not just for pampering. To support that, a greater focus on the need for qualifications and experienced spa teams has been a step in the right direction and I hope that in 2016 we see a defined process.

What is the most important global role for the spa and wellness industry?  To be recognised as a structured and accredited industry, that provides a 360 degree approach to wellness both for consumers, employees and communities.

Why are industry events such as the Professional Spa & Wellness Convention important?

You cannot put a value on information and this is the most important aspect of the convention. Also having time away from your business unit to connect with fellow industry colleagues, and to see new products, equipments and concepts that will help you drive your business.

Which sessions are you most looking forward to at the convention? All of them, I find it truly fascinating listening to fellow colleagues, both experienced and new to the industry, sharing insights and information.

Sharon Barcock is director of spa and fitness operations and development MEA for Hilton Worldwide and is based in Dubai.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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Grand designs This month, director of spa Paris Kounoudis takes us behind the scenes at the majestic Spa at The Ritz Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal What is the concept behind the spa? Inspired by the colours, textures and metal work of the local Bedouin culture, Espa at The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal offers a modern spa experience rooted in relaxation and rejuvenation. We leave nothing to be desired, providing everything that our guests may need for a day spa experience.

How many treatment rooms do you have and what other facilities are available

rituals and day packages. My favourite is our newest creation, the Four Handed Synchronized Ritual using Espa products. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a top-to-toe, 3-hour, luxury ritual starting with our signature foot ritual, and continuing with a body scrub, a full facial and a unique fourhands Ayurveda massage. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the ultimate spa ritual experience which we created with Espa exclusively for The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi.

We have 16 treatment rooms in total including a beautifully-designed Moroccan Hammam. Our guests can enjoy one of the finest spa facilities in Abu Dhabi offering saunas, steam rooms, plunge pools, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas and comfortable changing rooms. We recently created a private, adult-only beach dedicated solely to our spa guests. This is a secluded sandy area where we offer healthy beverages and refreshments. We are the only spa in Abu Dhabi offering a private spa beach.

Tell is why you selected the Espa brand and how that fits with your clientele? We have partnered with Espa as it is one of the most renowned spa brands worldwide with world-class treatments and result-driven products, extensive training and support in all aspects of our spa operation. Espa is also cooperating very closely with us in creating results driven strategies in achieving our goals.

Tell us more about the signature rituals on your treatment menu. Which is your favourite and why? We have created a variety of exclusive signature rituals targeting hotel guests and Abu Dhabi residents alike. At the moment we are offering a total of eight

How many therapists are working at the spa and what are their backgrounds? Our team of spa therapists consists of 12 ladies and gentlemen. We employ professionals from all around the world, all of them with internationally recognised certifications, with most of the therapists having worked in five star properties around the world as therapists, physiotherapists and beauty professionals prior to joining the team here. We always look for staff with caring and engaging personalities, able to create unique and memorable experiences for our guests on a daily basis.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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spa profile

How important is the continual training of staff to maintain the highest standards? We consider training as one of the most important aspects of our ladies and gentlemenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s development. We are convinced that the only way to create guests for life is to provide a spa experience that they will never forget. This comes through our extensive training. Espa is providing two immersive trainings a year with a visiting trainer, as well as continuous evaluations and training with our in-house trainer. The Ritz-Carlton philosophy and service trainings are part of the daily training process as well to ensure consistent delivery of personalised service.

What differentiates you from other spas in the region? We have a standalone spa facility of 2,500sq metres offering a range of spa services in a secluded environment that is ideal for individual and group reservations alike. Starting from valet parking, dedicated spa golf buggies, personalised check-in and spacious facilities as well as the many relaxing areas and a private beach; we have one of the most unique products in the market. Owing to the in-depth expertise of our therapists, we can consistently provide the highest level of spa experience.

What are your goals for 2016? Our goals for 2016 are to maintain our great standards of service, develop our team and establish our spa in the local community as one of the finest in the UAE.

Finally, if you could sum it up in one sentence, what do you hope guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lasting impression of the spa will be? With a soothing environment that envelops the guests in its minimal, yet natural beauty, Espa at The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi touches all the senses while invoking a sense of timelessness and creating indelible memories that make our guests want to come back over and over again.

Paris Kounoudis is director of spa, Ritz Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal with 11 years of professional experience in spa and leisure management and consulting. His previous work in Greece and Cyprus includes projects at the multi-award winning Le Meridien Limassol Spa and Resort, one of the biggest spas in Europe and the Middle East. He was the founding member and president of the Cyprus Spa Association. Hear him speak at the Professional Spa and Wellness Conference 2016 in February.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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business boosters

Dermalogica recently held its stockists' congress in Las Vegas, with two days of business advice, live demos and lavish parties. Eve Oxberry shares just 10 of the top tips she picked up

TECH IS YOUR BLESSING AND YOUR CURSE

Technology is making our lives easier but leaving us isolated, says Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand. With the theme of Only Connect, the brand’s congress focused heavily on how salons can use technology to their advantage without losing the power of human interaction and touch that forms the basis of salon care. More than in other professions, she says, skin therapists need to make sure their relationship with technology is healthy, “otherwise the cost of distractedness is too high because we are in the business of human connection”. However, the rise in use of technology, she says, is having a positive effect on industry growth. “There is a 40 per cent job increase predicted in our industry in the next 10 years and that is not random. People are realising they have to get back in touch with themselves and we have the opportunity to make that happen,” she says.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

CUSTOMERS HAVE HIGHER EXPECTATIONS THAN YOU THINK

We all know there are some bad salons out there, offering poor treatments at unsustainable prices. But rather than bemoan the way they are damaging the industry, good salons should grasp the opportunity, suggests Emma Hobson, Dermalogica’s education manager for Asia, Australia and New Zealand. She points to a survey in which 100 businesses were asked to rate their customer service. 80 per cent said they thought it was above average. However, when those businesses’ customers were surveyed, only eight per cent agreed. “In the last five years customers’ expectations have risen exponentially, so a gap is emerging where on one side we have customers with very high expectations and on the other businesses who believe they are meeting their expectations but are not,” says Hobson. And with social media, customers now tell many more people when they have bad experience. “Ask your customers regularly what they think of you. Find out their perception of you then when you’ve really listened, act upon it and do something to change,” says Hobson.

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ADD VALUE TO THE MICROMOMENTS

“Most of us reach for our smartphones within 15 minutes of waking up and go on to check them up to 221 times a day,” says Jeff Johnson, Dermalogica US’s director of digital. So how does your business keep clients’ attention when there’s so much information coming at us from these small screens? The answer, says Johnson, is by identifying the “micro-moments” – the reasons behind the short bursts of time in which people connect with your brand online – then populating them with value to make it an easy decision to choose you. “Sketch out a customer moments map,” he suggests. “For example, if a customer wanted a skin treatment, they’d reach for their phone and search for a salon near them. Have you checked that your salon comes high in a Google search? And if it does, have you checked how it compares with other salons in the area? Are your opening hours available? Are there reviews to read? Can you book online? The key is to get into these moments and make it quicker and easier for your customer to succeed.” In these moments, he warns, we have high expectations and very low tolerance, so if we don't find what we need in a few seconds we move on.

BE RELEVANT, PERSONAL AND SOLUTION-DRIVEN

“Tailor your conversation not only to your client’s skincare needs but also to their lifestyle and preferences, because that shows true understanding and connection,” says Angela Taylor, Dermalogica’s regional education manager (Europe, Africa, Middle East and India). By nature, therapists are problem solvers but many focus too much on the skin and not enough on the personality of the client, she suggests. Caring about results will create a strong bond. “We are very lucky to have the ability of touch in our industry but we sometimes forget that we have the power of the word. We spend a long time thinking about the written word in marketing and emails we send but very little in the words that come out of our mouths and the consequences they can have. So we must remember that conversations are our most powerful tool.”

CREATE POWERFUL CONVERSATIONS

To keep clients loyal and encourage them to recommend you, you need to make them feel interesting and important says, motivational speaker Stuart Knight, who spoke at the event. And to do that, you need to create powerful conversations. After opening with a stock question, a common mistake people make, he says, is to ask either a mediocre or an unrelated follow-up question. If you ask a client how their weekend was and they answer “busy”, for example, you should ask a “part-two” question based on the specific answer to the first, such as, “so out of all the things on your plate, what was the one you really needed to clear?” “Then ask another specific question based on the second answer,” he advises. “That way you’re peeling the layers of the onion away to get to the core of who that person is, and you’re making a human connection that your competition isn’t.”

MILLENNIALS ARE YOUR ADVERTS

If most of your clients are 40-plus and you want to reach the younger market, you need to adjust your marketing, says Phillip Picardi, digital editorial director of US mag Teen Vogue. Millennials (18 to 34-year-olds) have pioneered the concept of shared economy via open-market sites such as Airbnb and Uber, he says, so they’re more interested in an

experience than in belonging to a brand. “They are the ad – this is a generation that’s interested in word of mouth so they are your best advocates,” he adds. “A lot of millennials will go to social media before making a purchase and if they have a really great experience at your spa they’re going to Instagram it.” However, millennials place huge importance on authenticity, he warns, pointing to a study that showed 43 per cent of millennials prefer authenticity in content over the content itself when choosing a news source. “So they can smell an upsell from a mile away,” he adds. “35 per cent also said they’re more likely to trust a brand if it’s on social media.”

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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ANTICIPATION AND MEMORY ARE HALF THE EXPERIENCE

Researchers have found that 50 per cent of what makes us happy with an experience is the anticipation of it and the memory we take away at the end, says Hobson. “Your customers want to come to you either because the treatment they had last time was so fantastic they want to book again or because they have heard from others how great you are. Make sure that anticipation is an important part of your business plan.” When it comes to making memories, small gestures like a cupcake on someone’s birthday or a thank-you note can work wonders, she says, but remember that the lasting memory comes at the end of the journey. “There’s no point working your bottom off doing an amazing treatment if the client then goes out to the front desk and is charged the wrong amount or doesn’t get a friendly smile. What does she remember, the hour of bliss or those last three minute of pain?”

9 TRANSITION CLIENTS GENTLY

“As therapists, the treatment space is very much our environment and it’s not familiar to the client,” says Alex Rathbone, corporate trainer for Dermalogica UK, “so it’s a big ask to expect the client to lie on the couch, take a few breaths and feel secure enough with us to relax into their treatment.” Therapists need to build gradual connections to help the client progressively relax, she says. “Many of us start the treatment sitting behind the couch and asking the client to take a few breaths. But the client can't see us, so we’ve taken away their primary sense, which can be disconcerting.” She suggests standing at the side of the couch to establish eye contact first. She also recommends a warm hand and foot cleanse. “Anxiety or depression can draw energy to the head, so introducing heat to other areas helps rebalance,” she says. Finishing the treatment is equally important and Rathbone advises thinking about what would suit your client most that day, be that a refreshing glass of water or a comforting tea.

STRESS MAKES US STAGNATE

When we’re stressed, we fire our tensor muslces, which releases cortisol, says Wendy Palmer, founder of leadership embodiment, who trains businesses in mindfulness techniques to boost performance. “Cortisol shuts down the part of our brain that governs big-picture thinking, creativity, innovation and risk-taking.” Instead, she says, we need to learn to activate a concoction of testosterone and oxytocin. “Testosterone reinvigorates the part of our brain that controls creativity and risk-taking. It’s activated when we fire the extensor muscles by opening our posture. Oxytocin is a stress hormone that makes us want to help others and receive help. Oxytocin makes us feel connected and testosterone makes us feel confident.” She describes an exercise to boost both: “Sit up a little straighter and, as you inhale, lengthen the back of the neck and uplift a little bit. As you exhale, breathe down your front and think of something that makes you smile.” The first boosts testosterone and the second oxytocin. Repeatedly working with muscle groups in this way will eventually effect long-term change.

CHARCOAL AND IONS ARE AMONG TRENDS TO WATCH

The congress also gave stockists a sneak preview of some exciting new products and vice president of global education, research and development Dr Diana Howard explained how the ingredients and formulas would shape the salon market next year. Among the launches will be Charcoal Rescue Masque, in which on-trend ingredient activated charcoal works via adsorption, which causes bacteria to adhere to its surface to tackle acne. However, it also includes actives that target ageing or rosacea meaning it’s an all-in-one product. The brand’s new pro-only Ion Active System is launching into the US and will introduce exothermal (heating) and endothermal (cooling) “geloids” alongside four ion actives: retinol 1 per cent, hyaluronic acid, oligo-peptide and niacinamide, which Howard predicts will be “the next hot vitamin in skincare”. The gel-textured geloids help drive the actives into skin.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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For your beauty, hair and spa business November 2014

For your beauty, hair and spa business

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How to wow potential employers

Scent of success

Aromatherapy to boost your business

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Lights, camera, action! Creating a successful hair shoot

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Top nails techs get creative in our nail art special

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interview

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Business is booking up Launched less than a year ago, online salon and spa booking service Vaniday is causing a storm in the region. We catch up with managing director Vera Futorjanski and learn how signing up could benefit your business How successful has Vaniday been since it launched in the UAE?

According to a recent study by Research and Markets, the wellness products and services sector in the UAE is estimated to generate revenue of AED 11 billion by the end of this year. This proves that there is a high demand in the region for everything connected to grooming and beauty and we have had a tremendous response from the salons and spas we have approached. Owners and managers of spas and salons in the region are extremely open minded and many of them are early adaptors who recognise the potential an online booking option can bring them. We do not see the spas and salons we approach as just suppliers of services, we see them as partners. We can only profit from this partnership if we bring customers to their venues so it’s a win-win situation and owners acknowledge this and trust us. We have now over 500 spas and salons onboard and this is steadily growing.

What are the benefits of being featured on the Vaniday site to salons and spas?

We identified a gap in the market – there was a demand from customers to find an easy way to discover new beauty and wellness services, and demand from busy salon owners to make their businesses more accessible and profitable by using a digital platform. Thus, Vaniday was born. The benefts of being featured on Vaniday are numerous. Vaniday provides partner salons with intuitive and constantly updated customer relationship management(CRM), marketing, and online booking tools that would be costly for them to develop on their own. Salons owners can showcase their work, connect with new and existing clients and grow their business. Although, it is one of the largest and most profitable industries in the world, the beauty and wellness sector is one of the few industries that has not yet fully transitioned from offline to online. It is so simple

nowadays to book a plane ticket, order a table at your favourite restaurant or book a car service to your door online. We wanted to make beauty and wellness just as available to customers as these services, so we made it our mission to revolutionise the way people find and book services in this sector.

How do salons and spa sign up?

It is an extremely easy process! For any salon or spa that would like to have a profile on Vaniday, the management can get in touch and we then negotiate how they can become our partners. We then send a professional photographer to the salon and create their profile on Vaniday for them at no cost nor any operational hassle to the management or any of their staff. All they get are new customers!

How do you ensure that the salons and services offered are of a high standard?

We take an on-recommendation approach. Salons and spas we take on as partners are either well-established venues that are renowned for their treatments, or venues that have been recommended to us by friends and other customers. They all offer unrivalled customer service which is very much in line with Vaniday’s modus operandi.

Do you have expansion plans in 2016?

We are currently experiencing a very rapid growth. We have been active for less than a year and are already in numerous countries, all around the globe. We are constantly working on expanding our existing as well as new markets. In regards to the Middle East, this trend also holds true. This is a region in which market behaviour is very conducive to our business model and we are planning to capitalise on this to the benefit of our current and potential customers. In the next few months, we will expand to other emirates in the UAE, followed by other countries in the region.

Vera Futorjanski is Vaniday’s managing director and co-founder (alongside Nitin Reen) in the Middle East. Salons interested in partnering with Vaniday should email partnerships@vaniday.ae

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

tried and tested

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Light fantastic The best top-to-toe treatments to ensure clients sparkle this party season This month we tried… The Elemis White Brightening Facial at SensAsia Spa, Emirates Golf Club The lowdown: Recently launched in the UAE, the Elemis White Brightening facial has been clinically proven through independent trials to significantly even out skin tone, reduce pigmentation and increase brightness and luminosity after just one session. The 60-minute treatment is lauded as the ideal choice for those looking to reduce age spots, discolouration, oily skin and dullness in the face, neck, décolleté, arms and hands. PB says: I am always curious about Elemis innovations and hence I was delighted to be invited to try the White Brightening facial at SensAsia Spa. SensAsia being the winner of Best Elemis Therapist 2015 my expectations are high – and I am not disappointed. The seamless service I receive from the moment I am greeted by name, freed from my shoes and given a refreshing hibiscus drink, to the moment I leave can only be described as exemplary. After I’m shown to the treatment room and seated, my therapist, Ronnie, kneels down to talk to me (so we’re at the same level) and expertly explains the facial in detail. I am told there will be no extractions, no deep scrub or vigorous massage. Instead I will enjoy a feather-light layering of active ingredients, which will do all the work, while I relax. Ronnie tucks me into my heated bed and ensures I am comfortable. After cleansing, first with a regular Elemis cleanser and once with the White Brightening Even Tone Cleanser I am given a mirror and asked to point out the areas that cause me most concern – namely the pigmentation on my chin and jawline. I then enjoy the facial, which involves a masque, head and scalp massage, a facial massage and an arm massage. During the facial massage, I love the light strokes employed by the therapist, which are deeply relaxing and quite unique to this treatment. The products feel wonderful, especially the foamy Even Tone cleanser, which leaves my skin squeaky clean. The active ingredients used in the various products

contain bio-mimetic peptides, daisy, kiwi and sophora and pea extracts, oat amino acids and encapsulated vitamin C. At the close of the facial, when Ronnie brings the mirror to my face, I actually take a sharp intake of breath! I’m so amazed by the difference. It is as though someone has taken an eraser to my face and rubbed out the majority of my uneven skin, blemishes and pigmentation – especially on my chin and jaw. In contrast to the customary redness witnessed after a facial, my skin is white, clear and almost like porcelain. After the facial, I am taken to the relaxation area to sip ginger tea and come around after being in a deep state of relaxation. When I gush over my skin, Ronnie explains that the results would be even more dramatic after a course of three treatments. I am now using the prescribed White Brightening products; Even Tone Cleanser, Even Tone Lotion and Advanced Brightening Serum alongside my normal skincare routine to promote further benefits and to maintain my new-look luminous skin. Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

tried and tested

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This month we tried… KeraStraight KS Ultimate, Pastels Salon, Mercato The lowdown: Billed as a next generation keratin treatment, KeraStraight KS Ultimate promises smoother, sleeker, frizz-free hair in a shorter timeframe and with long-lasting results (between two to four months). Even more enticing, KeraStraight is kinder to hair thanks to its formaldehyde-free formula. Alongside the smoothing effects of the treatment, KS Ultimate also helps to rebuild natural keratin in the hair, leading to healthy, stronger and shinier hair. The treatment is suitable for all types of hair from fine to thick and coloured to curly. PB says: Like most ladies in Dubai I fight a constant battle with frizzy locks. My hair is relatively fine and after just a few minutes outside, the humidity takes hold, so the idea of having smooth, sleeker hair, even on just a temporary basis is hugely appealing. Arriving at Pastels, my stylist Shakira begins by talking me stepby-step through the process. I question whether my fine hair would find the treatment more abrasive, but Shakira explains that KeraStraight KS Ultimate is adaptable to each individual’s hair. Timings, temperatures and the amount of ironing and product used can be adjusted according to the requirements of each client’s hair. I’m ushered across to the washing area where my hair is shampooed with a Pre-Treatment Cleanser; this is left on for five minutes with a plastic cap covering my hair before it is rinsed out. Next Pre-Treatment Spray Plus is spritzed across my hair before the KS Ultimate product is applied. The process is straightforward. It simply involves the product being brushed through my hair on a section-by-section basis. Shakira mentions at this point that my scalp may feel a little itchy and that this is a perfectly normal sensation as the pH of the scalp rebalances itself. Once my hair has been covered a plastic cap is placed over my head and a timer is set for 35 minutes. Shakira has opted for a shorter time for my hair, based on the fact it is finer, has only a subtle kink to it and has also been coloured and highlighted.

When the 35 minutes is up I return to the basin where my hair is rinsed and then a Moisture Lock is combed through and left on for a couple of minutes before being rinsed out. Following this, my hair is blow-dried before being flat-ironed. This is again done on a section-by- section basis using an EasyComb and a flat-iron. Again Shakira customises the treatment, setting the iron on a lower temperature and using fewer strokes. The result is undeniably impressive. My hair looks sleek, smooth and shiny, it also feels soft and light. Surprisingly, my hair also still has movement and volume! Something I thought might be lost during the treatment. My hair also looks a little lighter in colour and Shakira did explain that the treatment can sometimes have this effect on coloured or highlighted hair. She also explains that the hair can be shampooed after 30 minutes, but for a longerlasting result, it is possible to leave it 24 hours before washing. I opt to do the latter and also choose to get a KeraStraight Maintain Shampoo, which is a sulphate-free product and will again help to prolong the effectiveness of the treatment. While it’s too early to say how long the treatment will last on my hair, my initial impressions would certainly encourage me to return for additional treatments. The application was simple, blow drying my hair is now a breeze and takes just a few minutes and the effect is exactly what I was hoping for frizz-free hair.

Before

After

This month we tried… So Spa Sofitel The Palm– Luxurious Voya Hammam Massage So Spa at Sofitel The Palm showcases a unique Polynesian theme and an imaginatively varied spa menu that sets it apart from much of the Dubai competition. The Voya Luxurious Hammam Massage is a case in point, employing exceptional

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

products from the Irish innovators within the loose framework of a traditional Arabic hammam treatment. It all begins in the steam room, with a few minutes to relax and open up the pores in readiness for Voya’s natural remedies. I am then led into the

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tried and tested

77 treatment room and laid down on a heated Ayurvedic bed, where the treatment and liberal administration of water and nourishing products commences. First comes a peppermint sugar scrub, applied all over the body in a medium-hard massage. The skin is fully exfoliated but is also kept hydrated by the natural, refreshing peppermint. Throughout the experience, water is applied at regular intervals, perfectly monitored to ensure that the warm temperature is soothing rather than scalding. The face and head are included in the treatment, which means that I also get a hair wash at this stage, before it is time for the coating of seaweed to be applied to the body. Voya’s seaweed replaces the body’s minerals that were lost in the scrub, and my therapist George leads me back to the steam room when I am covered in the seaweed to allow it to absorb fully into the pores. After nearly 10 minutes of reclining lazily in the hazy heat, I take a thorough shower to remove the seaweed and return to the treatment room for a less invigorating massage during which Voya’s moisturising citrus oil is applied liberally to make my skin

silky soft and healthy. George tells me to ideally avoid taking a shower later in the evening so that the skin will feel like never before upon rising tomorrow morning, and as it turns out he is not wrong on this! After a little time in the spa’s enticing relaxation zone, I return to the changing rooms and notice a second major benefit of this treatment: in addition to some TLC for the skin, the application of piercing peppermint, savoury seaweed and zingy citrus means I leave the spa smelling a million dollars! Tested by: Matthew Vlemmiks

This month we tried… Slimming Detoxifying 3 Day Cure, The Pearl Spa, Four Seasons Resort Dubai The lowdown: A three-day package that combines wraps, massage, cryofit and spabike to shape, slim and detoxify the body. The first day involves a Detox Body Wrap and a Lympho Rolling Massage, while the second day combines a Lympho Rolling Massage and a Lipo Draining Cryofit. Finally, the third day features a spabike session and a Lympho Rolling Massage. PB says: Unfortunately my busy schedule didn’t allow me test out the full three-day package, so I opted to test day three of the package. After completing the initial paperwork – two forms, one for the spabike and one for the massage – I’m ushered through to the treatment room – the spabike readily waiting for me. My attendant therapist explains to me how the spabike works and responds to any questions I ask, and then assists me with entering the spabike. She also provides me with a training video to watch that guides me through different exercises and repetitions. The session lasts 40 minutes with my attendant regularly popping in to check that I’m okay and offer me water and cold towels. The water pressure for the warm up phase is quite gentle and then ramps up before softening again for the last few minutes. The spabike monitors a number of things: distance cycled, reps per minute (RPM) and calories burned. When my session finishes I’m impressed by the stats I’ve clocked up, and I’m further reassured that working against the pressure of the water ensures I’ve had an even harder workout. My therapist is waiting to transfer me across to the next treatment room for my massage, which I can only describe as truly blissful. Focusing on just my legs and arms, the massage incorporates a series of strokes, which are at times soft and feather-like and at others circular, rolling and pinching. The first part of the massage uses Dr Burgener Svelt Body Oil, while the latter uses Dr Burgener Cellulite Corrective Gel, which features caffeine and mint. Both products in combination with the

massage strokes are designed to enhance lymphatic drainage and elimination of toxins. Following the treatment my legs and arms feel smoother and softer, and refreshingly I feel none of the fatigue or achiness that often follows a workout session. My therapist advises me to drink plenty of water during the rest of the day to aid with the toxin elimination. Even trialling just one third of the Detox package I’ve experienced benefits in terms of skin tone, firmness and texture, so I can only imagine the benefits the full three day package will provide. Tested by Zoe Moleshead

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015

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January 28-31 2016 IMCAS World Congress Le Palais des Congrès de Paris, Paris, France The eighteenth IMCAS Annual World Congress brings together plastic surgeons, dermatologists and aestheticians at an event that combines an exhibition, scientific sessions and learning hours. Exhibitors will be showcasing innovations in areas such as cosmeceuticals, implants, lasers and injectables. www.imcas.com/en January 30-31 2016 The Makeup Show Orlando Hyatt Regency, Orlando, US This event is dedicated to make-up professionals looking to enhance or brush-up on the latest trends and skills. Hands-on workshops, seminars and forums are available to show visitors, who can gain insight into all areas of make-up from

beauty to FX and fantasy. www.themakeupshow.com/orlando/ February 28-29 Professional Beauty London London ExCeL, United Kingdom Professional Beauty London is delivering its exciting combination of live stages and seminars with nail and make-up competitions and an exhibition where 100s of new products will be unveiled. professionalbeauty.co.uk February 28-29 Professional Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCeL, United Kingdom Running in parallel to the Professional Beauty London exhibition, the PSW Convention will bring together leading global professionals from the spa industry to share their success stories and industry insights. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Don’t Miss... February 1-2 2016 Professional Beauty GCC Meydan, Dubai, UAE Professional Beauty GCC returns for 2016 at a new, larger venue. The extended exhibition space will play host to a showcase of products and demonstrations, while opportunities to network with fellow professionals and access a range of insightful industry talks, demonstrations and live shows will once again be open to all participants and visitors. www.professionalbeautygcc.com

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