Professional Beauty GCC - March 2014

March 2014

www.professionalbeauty.ae

The year of...

Global spa trends for 2014

GCC

Eye time

Our guide to lashes & brows

SISTER ACT

BEHIND THE SCENES AT RENOWNED SALON CHAIN

sunsetstrip strip The hottest nail trends set to hit the market for spring and summer

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contents

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Published by and (C) 2014 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City.

321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971(0)50 526 4604 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks news@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Lucy Douglas, Nora Elias Sally Hewerdine, Eve Oxberry Advertising: display@professionalbeauty.ae classified@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971(0)50 526 4604 Communications Manager: Ramona Feraru ramona@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production: ICD, www.icd.gb.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae

57 in this issue...

The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers.

Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.

The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

Regulars

Features

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21

@Pro_Beauty

13 March 2014

GCC

uty.ae

www.professionalbea

The year of...

Eye timeto

Our guide lashes & brows

Global spa trends for 2014

SISTER ACT

BEHIND THE SCENES AT RENOWNED SALON CHAIN

sunsetssttrrip The hottest nail trends

set to hit the market

r for spring and summe

18/02/2014 14:06

News Surveys reveal management rate experience over education, trends for multi-purpose products and greater brand loyalty among older women. Plus, new spa openings in the UAE and much more

And the winner is…

We reveal the local winners of the 2014’s World Spa and Wellness Awards

33 On the scent Aromatherapy Associates co-founder Geraldine Howard on operating in the Middle East 36 Media matters We uncover how to get the best from your social media

Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and nail salons

43 Recording development Spa expert Sally Hewerdine on CPD

29 Ask the experts The low-down on cosmeceutical products, operating in the male grooming market and advising clients with dry hair

62 New products The best products for spring and beyond

58 Treatment news New treatments for antiageing including machinebased facials, plus an eyebrow makeover

68 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary, from trade shows to conferences and training

54 In the clear We highlight the latest on lasers and IPL in our global report 57 Perfect fit Discover how ShuiQi’s innovative revamp has fused spa and fitness 70 The accessible spa Jumeirah’s Paul Hawco on the benefits of making spa affordable

Cover Image: F&F at Tesco OFC PBGCC MAR14.indd

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welcome

5 elcome to the first issue of Professional Beauty GCC. For the last few months our team has been busy visiting salons, spas and distributors in this vibrant region to garner opinions on what you want from our publication.

Your response has been overwhelmingly supportive. Many of you are already familiar with the market-leading Professional Beauty UK and tell us that you have been awaiting a similar magazine catering specifically to businesses in this region.

We have also gleaned that there are some crucial areas that you’d like us to address; training, legislation and global trends.We have endeavoured to cover some of these in this: our launch issue, and look forward to further reporting on these areas. Our global trends feature on page 23 asks suppliers and spas around the world for their 2014 predictions.

Some of the key themes – which will impact both spas and salons – are product multifunctionality and the need for a bespoke approach to wellness.

Love it or hate it, nobody can ignore the impact of social media. In some industries a bad review can sound the death knell for a business, and in our own industry those that don’t effectively utilise and respond to mediums such as Facebook and Twitter are missing a major opportunity. Read our guide on how best to promote your business and take ownership of your brand on page 36.

Since arriving in Dubai, I have already met some inspirational businesspeople, managers and therapists. We highlight the success of one salon chain, Sisters Beauty Lounge, in an interview with its managing director, for whom the sky is the limit, on page 45.

The Middle East is a prime target for growth and investment for many of the world’s major spa and beauty brands. Both Geraldine Howard of Aromatherapy Associates and Olivier Bonneyfoy from Gentlemen’s Tonic provide an insight to operating in the GCC in this issue. It’s an exciting time for the industry here and we look forward to supporting you, celebrating your successes, and helping you develop your business. Of course, we invite – and look forward to – your comments on our launch issue.

49

Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR

17

On the cover 17

Sunset strip The hottest nail trends set to hit the market for spring and summer

23 The year of…

Global spa trends for 2014 45 Sister Act Behind the scenes at a leading salon chain 49 Eye Time Read our eye treatment cheat sheet

23

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NEWS

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa

UAE spas shine in world awards

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wo spas from the United Arab Emirates scooped top accolades at the World Spa and Wellness Awards 2014.

ShiQui Spa and Fitness at Atlantis, The Palm in Dubai and The Banyan Tree Spa Al Wadi in Ras Al Khaimah both celebrated wins at a glitzy awards ceremony held in

London’s Guildhall on February 23.

The awards, organised by Professional Beauty, were launched in 2012 to celebrate spa excellence around the globe and raise industry standards.

ShiQui came first in the Hotel Spa of The Year: Middle East category and The Banyan Tree in the Destination Spa of The

Celebrity Wellness Practitioner returns to Zighy Bay Oman’s prestigious spa resort, Six Senses Zighy Bay, welcomes the return of internationally acclaimed ‘Queen of Pilates’ Lynne Robinson.

Robinson’s clients have included Hugh Grant, Liz Hurley, Sophie Dahl and Pat Cash as well as top sports teams. She has worked with Chelsea Football Club for several years, teaching first-team players and helping with injury rehabilitation.

Robinson has been visiting wellness practitioner at Six Senses Zighy Bay since 2011. Vice president of Six Senses Spas Anna Bjurstam is excited about Robinson’s return.

“We are so glad to have Robinson back with us for the fifth time. There is no doubt that her work has a big impact on our guests’ lives,” she said.

Robinson Robinson is renowned for the quality and detail of her teaching.

Originally a schoolteacher, Robinson discovered Pilates in 1992. After completing her training, she resolved to make Pilates as accessible as possible to the typical person by creating a completely new approach.

As a result, she founded Body Control Pilates in 1996. This breadth of experience honed her ability to ensure, regardless of a student’s level of fitness or Pilates experience, that everyone can get the most from his or her Pilates sessions.

The Pilates retreat will run from March 6-9 for in-house guests of the beach resort.

Guests who subscribe to the three-day retreat will enjoy two private sessions with Robinson, unlimited wellness activities on the resort’s weekly programme, daily wellness cuisine hand tailored by chef de cuisine James Knight Pacheco, daily private herbal steams, two 60-minute signature massages, full wellness programme inclusions, and the opportunity to join the resort’s empowering programme for International Women’s Day on Wednesday, March 8.

Year: Middle East and Africa category.

Both spas were visited by two judges – an official judge and mystery shopper – and were scrutinised, by a further eight judges, on a variety of criteria from customer service to treatment performance.

For a full report – including comments from the winners – turn to page 21.

Aromatherapy Associates commits to retain professional focus following sale Aromatherapy Associates has affirmed its commitment to the professional market following the brand’s acquisition in February by an investment fund managed by retailer Boots.

Aromatherapy Associates president Geraldine Howard told Professional Beauty, “Our main focus will remain within the premium spa sector and expanding our presence in this area globally.” In an earlier statement, Howard said that she and her global team is looking forward to working with B&B Investment Partners.

“Not only do they share our vision for the brand, but they bring with them a huge level of expertise that will significantly help to grow the business globally,” she said.

This was the first acquisition by B&B Investment Partners, which was formed in September 2013 as a partnership between Alliance Boots and individual investors Chris Britton and Jean-Philippe Barade. Its particular focus is on acquiring companies in the health and beauty sector with significant growth potential.

President Geraldine Howard

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Voya awarded Halal Certification

Espa opens 2,000sqm beachfront property

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he new Espa spa at The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal, comprises 16 treatment rooms, with facilities including a Moroccan hammam, several saunas, separate outdoor relaxation areas for men and women, a 1,600sq m outdoor swimming pool and a garden complete with a plunge pool and waterfall.

The spa offers a private beach to which only Espa guests have access and there is also a Pace e Luc beauty salon, providing nail, makeup and hair services, on the

premises. The health club is open 24 hours a day, offering a range of fitness classes that include spinning, yoga and circuit training.

Among the treatments on the spa menu is the signature Oasis Ritual, a two-hour experience comprising a foot ritual, a hammam scrub and a body massage using warm oil. The design of the spa, which takes inspiration from the Bedouin culture of the region, is centred around the use of natural materials such as limestone, glass and brown onyx.

Luxury spa products distributor the Product House has expanded its current Brand Training Centre to encompass a variety of support courses.

The facility, which is based in the company’s warehouse in Dubai, will allow the company to offer its already extensive training courses on a much larger scale, accommodating up to 40 therapists inhouse.

Janette Gladstone-Watts, founder and MD of The Product House, said: “Our new facility will allow more attendees to join our regular in-house training. Corporate accounts will benefit from shared training and cross training, and new businesses will be able to train on our premises, should theirs not be completed or suitable.

“With the new laws coming into place regarding certification and experience, if therapists are not trained up to reach these standards, there will soon be a shortage in staff.

“This could lead to a price war between spas to secure staff with the necessary credentials and experience which, in turn, could cause salaries to elevate. It is therefore crucial to start the training process as soon as possible to keep the staff you have and to train them to reach

their true potential.”

Among the courses offered are CIBTAC-endorsed training modules, available to individual spas, hotels and spa chains. Modules will include, face – at beginner’s and intermediate levels, body – at beginner’s, intermediate and advanced levels and also machine facials at advanced level.

Gladstone-Watts said, “Many spa managers and teams don’t have the tools to generate revenue effectively, which is why we decided to offer the course. There is a huge demand from the spa industry for this initiative, and courses will be run

by Helen Merchant, who has enormous expertise in this field, having worked with Six Senses, Mandarin Oriental and now in her own consultancy, alongside many leading names in the spa industry.”

The initial course in March will cover the need to understand finance, budgets, revenue streams, the importance of measuring occupancy, targets and measuring financial performance. The costs will range from AED 5,500 – AED 9,500. This will then be extended to courses on Managing Retail Revenue in June 2014 and Managing Sales and Marketing in September 2014.

Setting the standard

Luxury Irish Seaweed range Voya has received the thumbs up from Halal HMC following stringent testing. Voya has already achieved certification from the Soil Association and is IOFGA approved. Now the luxury Irish seaweed brand, which is popular throughout our region, has undergone strict tests to ensure all products in the range are halal certified.

The HMC halal team visited the Voya headquarters in Sligo, Ireland, to put the products and workplace through vigorous tests to ensure they were up to the high standards of the HMC. Testers looked for various impurities such as alcohol and animal fats (including pork substance).

The company believes that there has been an increase in the number of people who have concerns about the ingredients in their skincare products, plus that many individuals are unaware that what they buy contains animal fats under “disguised names of various ingredients”.

Mark Walton, founder of Voya, said “We have nothing to hide in our products; you will find only the purest and most natural ingredients the earth has to offer. Getting the HMC halal stamp of approval gives our customers the confidence and peace of mind that all of our products are safe for them to use, without any hidden nasties.

“Not only are Halal-certified food and products hugely important to the Muslim community, but also becoming more important across the world. Chemicals in products, even ones that claim to be organic and natural, can cause irritation to sensitive skin and remove its natural oils, which can cause dehydration and dryness.”

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Mandarin Oriental launches spa internship and management trainee programmes While the company has offered intern and trainee programmes in the hotel side of the business for some years, this marks the first time the initiative has been open to those in the spa division.

The internships will last six months and the management programme will span 18 months. The hotel group is seeking graduates from a spa, hotel or lesuire management course background for the trainee programme. During the 18 months,

participants will work in turn with the spa director, operations manager, treatments manager and supervisors, gaining experience of a range of different aspects of spa operations including sales, marketing and finance.

Debi Green, regional spa director for Europe, the Middle East and Africa said: “Developing talent is so important, especially because we are growing so rapidly.

If we don’t invest in training, we’re going to be challenged in the future.”

Dubai spa specialist in the “driving seat” Doha dominates Tackling the sometimes thorny issue of retail sales in salons and spas is a new book Driving Retail.

Spa specialist Sally Hewerdine hopes her new book, Spotlight On Spa & Wellness – Driving Retail will help businesses in the region reach their full retail potential.

She said: “I have always had a passion for writing but my focus has always been on training programmes or magazine articles. Then I attended a spa managers conference in Dubai and it became very apparent that an area causing problems was encouraging staff to retail, so I thought I would simply log my experience.

“In my opinion the biggest issue with retail actually stems from the management themselves. There seems to be an expectation that a team should just retail and yet there is sometimes no motivation or drive from the managers, yet alone the tools to help individuals achieve their targets.” The book outlines how spas can take a holistic approach to the problem, creating a retail culture instead of viewing ‘sales’ as separate to treatments.

“A culture as we know it is a way of life, an upbringing usually passed down to us from our parents, it is rarely questioned and is just part of us. The same can be achieved with retail within a team. Imagine a business where staff members take it upon themselves to reach targets, know what is expected, how to do it and even more importantly want to do it!

“My book is an easy-to-read, pocketsized guide that will hopefully make people understand what is needed to create a retail culture, to see things in a different light. Managers have to wear many ‘different hats’. Motivation and driving the business is probably the hardest part of the role.

We do have some amazing managers here in the UAE; there is no doubt about that. I know of many who are great at their jobs, their ability to get the best out of people and to constantly achieve retail figures of up to 50 per cent and over is really an amazing achievement.

This is just not as common. though. as we would want it to be.”

Driving Retail is published by Lulu.

spa market

Doha dominated the Middle Eastern spa market in 2013, according to a new report.

The Middle East Spa Benchmarking Survey report found that the average revenue per treatment in Doha, Qatar, was roughly 90 per cent higher than the Dead Sea and Beirut region.

The average daily revenue generated per therapist also told a similar story with Doha therapists generating 38 per cent more than Dead Sea spas and 150 per cent more than spas in Beirut.Revenue per available treatment hour was also highest in Doha, with the Dead Sea region standing at around 60 per cent lower than Doha.

While Doha did account for highest treatment revenue per treatment sold and average daily treatment generated per therapist, the Doha spa market accounted for the lowest utilisation of therapist hours in the three markets surveyed. The report also highlighted that retail revenue remains an under capitalised revenue stream in all three markets.

Interest in the Middle Eastern market is high among potential investors and developers. Companies such as Starwood, Anantara and Ritz-Carlton are just few companies to be expanding their presence in the region over the next several years.

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Older women more brand loyal

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omen over 50 are more loyal to their favourite beauty and personal care brands than younger customers.

According to a US consumer panel held by market solutions provider Kantar Worldpanel, 65 per cent of woman aged 50 plus stay with the same brands.

This age group is also less concerned with price and more focused on quality than their younger counterparts.

The research showed that the emphasis for this clientele is on addressing the skin-

care concerns they already have, rather than preventing further issues from arising.

Their primary skincare concerns being fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of elasticity and firmness, as well as dry skin.

However, while 49 per cent of women said they “do whatever they can to look young”, only 21 per cent said they use anti-ageing serums or creams.

Just three per cent of men over 50 admitted to using anti-ageing skincare products.

Multipurpose products set to rise in popularity Multifunctional beauty products will be a leading trend in 2014 and beyond according to Mintel.

Findings from the market intelligence provider reveal that products that fulfill more than one purpose are attracting customers around the globe.

Jane Henderson, global president of the beauty and personal care division at Mintel, said, “This is fast becoming a standout trend that spans all the beauty and personal care categories. While manufacturers have worked with multifunctionality for a number of years, we are now seeing them take inspiration from completely different categories to create new products.”

Mintel found that 70 per cent of female consumers in the US expressed an interest in multifunctional lip products, with 65 per cent feeling the same way about multifunctional products for the face – including items that combine the benefits of a foundation and a concealer.

Nearly half of consumers in the fast-growing Chinese market, demonstrated an interest in multifunctional beauty products.

Time efficiency was cited as a key factor in the popularity of these types of products, with 68 per cent of US consumers highlighting this as “crucial”.

In addition to time, 63 per cent of US and 34 per cent of Chinese beauty buyers stressed the importance of cost reduction.

Relax and recycle Eco-friendly treatments, recycling services and tailor-made products are just some of the services on offer at Organic Glow Beauty Lounge.

One of the first in the UAE’s to go green, the Dubai salon offers organic, cruelty-free natural products, inside an eco-friendly interior.

The Organic Glow Beauty Lounge strives to increase awareness amongst women about the dangers of using harsh chemicals and promotes ethical and holistic beauty by offering a menu of services which includes: organic sugaring, natural hair treatments, ammonia-free colour, fruit facials, freshlyblended body scrubs, and formaldehydefree nail treatments.

Clients are invited to bring in old magazines, plastic, glass and electronic items, so that the salon can recycle them.

Customers are also given a 10 per cent discount on their next purchase when returning scrub jars and product bottles for refills for certain products.

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Les Sens de Marrakech exclusive distributor for the GCC Actual Trading LLC I PO Box 39269 Dubai – U.A.E. M +971 50 8594100 T +971 4 2213430 www.actualspas.com Untitled-3 1

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business trends

professionalbeauty.ae

13 The month in numbers

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

74

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2012 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2013?

63 21 16

% BETTER

% SAME

Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons, spas and nail salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

%WORSE

PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

63

%

On the spot

Insider beauty, hair and nails

DECEMBER

It’s good news for the majority of salons this month, with most of you experiencing better treatment business than in December 2012.

The bulk of salons also enjoyed repeat custom revealing client loyalty and satisfaction. Shampoos and nail polishes were the most popular items retailed in December and you are predicting that hair treatments will be the most sought after this spring. Newly qualified staff members are most lacking in customer service skills when they join your team and need more training in this area, according to the majority of you. Just under half of you have increased staff numbers in the last year.

63

WHAT AREA DO YOU MOST NEED TO TRAIN NEWLY QUALIFIED THERAPISTS IN WHEN THEY JOIN YOUR BUSINESS? 1. Customer service 2. Treatment performance 3. Team work 4. Hygiene

42

%

OF YOU USE SALON SOFTWARE TO HELP YOUR BUSINESS

WHAT TREATMENTS ARE YOU PREDICTING WILL BE MOST POPULAR THIS SEASON? 1. Hair 2. Nails 3. Facials

%

OF YOU SAY CLIENTS ASK IF YOUR PRODUCTS ARE NATURAL OR ORGANIC

47

%

OF YOU HAVE INCREASED STAFF NUMBERS IN THE LAST YEAR

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business trends

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AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

78

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2012 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2013?%

90 5 5

% BETTER

Insider spa

% SAME

%WORSE

Insider, our exclusive round-up of spa stats in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

DECEMBER Business is thriving with 90 per cent of you enjoying better treatment business than in December 2012. The majority of your clients are also rebooking.

You are predicting that massage will be the most sought-after treatment this spring, with body scrubs also in demand as clients prepare skin for the summer. Customers are becoming increasingly savvy with more than half of them asking about product ingredients and all of you say you use spa software to assist your business.

85

%

62

%

On the spot

OF YOU HAVE INCREASED STAFF NUMBERS IN THE LAST YEAR

100

WHAT AREA DO YOU MOST NEED TO TRAIN NEWLY QUALIFIED THERAPISTS IN WHEN THEY JOIN YOUR BUSINESS? 1. Customer service 2. Treatment performance 3 Team work 4. Hygiene

%

OF YOU USE SPA SOFTWARE TO HELP YOUR BUSINESS

WHAT TREATMENTS ARE YOU PREDICTING WILL BE MOST POPULAR THIS SEASON? 1. Body massage 2. Body scrubs 3. Hamman 4. Facials

65

%

OF YOU SAY CLIENTS ASK IF YOUR PRODUCTS ARE NATURAL OR ORGANIC

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spring nail trends

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Sunset strip

Daring designs, a spectrum of vibrant, sunset colours and stark white talons – nails are set to make a statement this season, writes Fiona Vlemmiks

A

s temperatures begin to soar, “On spring runways, models were seen brands are taking inspiration wearing lots of black and white, with bold “Pastels are from warm, sandy beaches accents of orange and yellow and muted fresh, vibrant and with sunshine yellows, elements of taupe and clay,” says Suziuplifting. Bright pastel oranges, pinks and reds Weiss-Fischmann, OPI co-founder. blue, violet, yellow, pink and apricot perfectly complement featuring in most collections, this “Our spring collection provides this season’s clothing spring and summer. The vivid vivid hues to add a pop of colour to collections. We think this nail palette of colours, designed to a neutral-toned wardrobe, as well trend is fabulous because of be worn on short, neat nails for a as earthy tones for that easy its simplicity; it is all about fresh and wearable look, can be transition from day to night.” choosing one shade and combined with bold textures and Jennifer Main, a brand manager letting the colour do finishes, offering something for for Jessica agrees: “The trends for the talking” every client, from the demure to spring and summer 2014 are diverse Jennifer Main, Jessica the daring. and exciting. Pastels are fresh, vibrant and

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spring nail trends

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18 Carnival colours Brazil by OPI brings the colours of tropical rainforests and sandy beaches to nails and toenails for spring and summer. This new collection comprises colours ranging from bright hues of red, pink, coral, orange and yellow to earthy tones of taupe, sienna, mocha and jungle green. In addition to 12 nail lacquers, the collection includes a set of four limited-edition, Beach Sandies Liquid Sand mini neon nail lacquers in bold purple, pink, turquoise and yellow shades with a textured, matte finish.

Brazil by OPI is availabkle in both nail lacquer and GelColor formulas.

Call Nazih Group: +971 6 573 93 92 uplifting. Bright pastel blue, violet, yellow, pink and apricot perfectly complement this season’s clothing collections. We think this nail trend is fabulous because of its simplicity; it is all about choosing one shade and letting the colour do the talking. Short, immaculately presented, nude nails will also be a must-have. Creamy neutral shades create an elegant, fresh and wearable look. The great thing about nudes is they allow you to look effortlessly groomed with minimal hassle, they also go with everything.”

Photo finish

Ocean’s six Jessica has taken inspiration from the underwater world of seashells and ocean flowers with Coral Symphony – its Spring 2014 collection. The range comprises Conch Shell, Ocean Bloom, Tropical Sunset, Monsoon Melon, Starfish Glow and Sharktooth – a radiant pure white.

Jessica polishes contain antioxidant vitamins for maximum conditioning and UVA/UVB protection from the sun. All polishes are quick-drying and eco-friendly, free of toluene, formaldehyde and DBP. Glitz and glamour can be achieved with Jessica Geleration. Sixteen more colours have been added to the existing collection of more than 75 colours available through Jessica’s UAE distributor, which also distributes the Minx Underwear line.

Call Warba Cosmetics: +971 4 345 46 46

Innovative designs and finishes are also big news this season. Main believes clients will covet anything from opulent manicures, topped with gold leaf and Swarovski crystals, to subtle gloss and matte combinations.

“For a sophisticated yet eye-catching look paint the whole nail in one shade and use a matte top coat to create “On spring subtle designs. Or, for all out runways, models glam, add a textured glitter were seen wearing lots of topcoat to your favourite black and white, with bold shade. The beauty of this accents of orange and yellow trend is the possibilities and muted elements of taupe are endless, the more and clay. Our spring collection creative you are the provides vivid hues to add a pop of colour to a neutral-toned better!” she says. wardrobe, as well as earthy Weiss-Fischmann believes tones for that easy transition geometric, monochromatic from day to night” designs will give modern Suzi Weiss-Fischmann OPI manicures a retro twist. “I co-founder recommend trying a contrasting

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Bio Sculpture Gel, the original everlasting manicure, is a chip-free, salon treatment that cures to a strong yet flexible, glossy finish and lasts for up to three weeks.

The damage-free, nourishing treatment will protect and enhance your natural nails and is available in over 150 colours. As the original nail gel, Bio Sculpture Gel is tried, tested and proven.

For your nearest salon or information on training courses for beginners and experienced nail technicians contact 04 3414820 or info@bio-sculpture.ae Bio Scuplture Middle East

www.biosculpture.me

Proud members of the

spring nail trends

professionalbeauty.ae

20 Carefree colour

moon or a thick line down the middle of the nail; the key to giving this standard look an update is using two tones of the same hue,” she says.

Gel manicures can be spiced up with the new Minx Underwear line, which is designed to be worn under gels, acrylic or polishes. The collection includes designs featuring anything from corsets to pouty lips. The Underwear products can be embedded in a variety of mediums such as gels, gel-polishes, acrylic or even standard polish. Like traditional Minx, the Underwear template is heated before application onto the middle layer of the chosen product before being encased with the appropriate topcoat. Minx Underwear will last as long as the medium in which it is embedded.

At the other end of the spectrum, stark white nails are on-trend this season. Perfect with a summer tan, white can be worn alone or used as a base for designs. Says Main, “Crisp white nails create the perfect glamorous impact.

Wear alone or add your own bold geometric design for an edgy twist.” PB

First blush Orly’s delicate new colour palette was debuted on the catwalks at Jean-Pierre Braganza and Meadham Kirchhoff. The collection consists of six shades including Naked Canvas (nude with pink pearl), Dare to Bare (taupe crème), Classic Contours (mauve crème), Flawless Flush (cool lilac with gold shimmer), Cheeky (peach shimmer), and First Blush (coral crème).

Call Sawaya International: +971 4 37 999 39

Open Road is CND’s new “carefree” spring collection. Shades are offered in both CND Shellac and Vinylux.

“The Open Road Collection inspires women to let their hair loose, put the top down and drive towards the sunset,” says CND co-founder Jan Arnold.

The collection in Vinylux matches the new CND Shellac shades Powder My Nose, Sun Bleached, Desert Poppy, Clay Canyon, Mint Convertible and Sage Scarf.

The new, limited-edition CND Additives range complements the collection. Pigments and glitter can be blended into any CND sculpting powder, gel or Vinylux, or layered over CND Shellac.

Call Momentum Beauty Products: +971 4 345 22 48

CONDITION IS CRITICAL To ensure that clients’ nails are in pristine condition for spring, Mavala specialises in the maintenance of nails, offering a complete range of products to alleviate nail concerns – from uneven nail surfaces and splitting and flaking to nail discolouration.

The Mavala Scientifique product works on soft, flaking or splitting nails to help them become healthy and strong. Its formula hardens the nail plate so that the nail can restore its normal growth. The product can be applied twice a week until nails have recovered, then two to three times per month to maintain the condition.

Call: Madi International Dubai +971 4 252 52 66 or Abu Dhabi +971 2 666 82 05

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winner is…

And the

We showcase the local 2014 winners of the World Spa and Wellness Awards

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he winners of the prestigious awards were announced at a glittering black-tie dinner held at the spectacular Guildhall, located in the heart of London, on Sunday February 23. People travelled from all four corners of the globe to join the event, organised by Professional Beauty.

The awards were launched in 2012 to recognise and reward the work that spas do, honouring hotels and destination spas in Western Europe and Scandinavia, the Middle East and North “To win the Africa, North & South America and Asia World Spa and and Australasia.

Wellness Award for Our local winners were delighted to a second time means a receive one of the leading honours tremendous amount to in the industry, which acknowledge us all at ShuiQi and excellence of care, service and fills us with gratitude standards and aim to inspire spas for the recognition” around the world and serve to raise global industry standards. Representing our region were the Hotel Spa of the Year: Middle East and Destination Spa of the Year: Middle East and Africa categories.

Hotel Spa of the Year: Middle East Hotel Spa of the Year: Middle East category was scooped once again by Shuiqi Spa and Fitness at Atlantis, The Palm – last year’s winners in this category.

Neil Hewerdine, vice president of spa services at Atlantis, told Professional Beauty GCC, “To win the World Spa and Wellness Award for a second time means a tremendous amount to us all at ShuiQi and fills us with gratitude for the recognition. Our guests frequently comment on and acknowledge our 2013 award with pride and confidence in our offering, so this strengthens our focus to innovate and continue to deliver a quality product offering.”

LEFT: The corridor leading to the treatment rooms at ShuQi.

As part of the comprehensive judging process, all shortlisted spas were visited by both an official and a mystery judge – each possessing detailed knowledge of the region they are judging – during the second round of judging. Runners up in the Hotel Spa of the Year: Middle East category were all from the UAE; Anantara Spa at Eastern Mangroves Hotel and Spa, Abu Dhabi, Anantara Spa at Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi, and the Talise Ottoman Spa, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Dubai.

Destination Spa of the Year: Middle East and Africa This year’s destination spa winner was the Banyan Tree Spa Al Wadi, Ras Al Khaimah. The spa, located at the Al Wadi desert resort uses therapists formally trained at Banyan Tree Spa Academies in Bintan in Indonesia, Phuket in Thailand or Lijiang in China.

Kanruethai Roongruang, executive director, spa operations, for Banyan Tree Spas and Angsana Spas, told Professional Beauty, “The Banyan Tree Spa is proud to be recognised for its quality, innovation and service as an award winner at the World Spa and Wellness Awards, one of the ABOVE: The Deluxe Pavillion at the Banyan Tree Spa leading honours in the industry.

Through the years, Banyan Tree Spa has been named the World’s Best Spa by numerous international awards, strengthening our brand presence in the global and regional spa scene, and increasing awareness amongst global travellers. Since inception, Banyan Tree Spa has won over 350 spa awards and accolades. We believe that being recognised as an award winner of World Spa and Wellness Awards further reinforces our brand presence as the trendsetter and market leader of the surging spa industry.”

Runners up in the Destination Spa of the Year: Middle East & Africa category were Angsana Spa, Balaclava, Mauritius and Kallisti Spa, La Marsa, Tunisia. PB

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world focus

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The year of...

Professional Beauty investigates the global trends set to dominate our industry

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e asked some of the leading spa suppliers and operators from around the globe for their trend predictions. The answers were as diverse as they were interesting. Read on to find out more…

Suppliers speak “Clients want powerful treatments with results after just one session. In the UK, facials will continue to be more popular than body treatments, but we have seen major growth in the body treatment area and this is set to continue. [Customers] now expect a tailor-made approach to their facial or body treatment, which Clarins’ Tri-active treatments are designed to allow, and this trend is set to continue in 2014.”

Debbie Lewis, managing director, Clarins UK

“There is a new spending pattern. Instead of looking for a bargain, clients now want to see results, so they are looking to spend more to get more from their treatments and products. Skincare for anti-ageing is also going to move up another level; focusing on peptides, lipids and cell communication. At Elemis, we’re looking more closely at cell communication and at ingredients designed to mimic the skin’s functions.”

Noella Gabriel, director of product and treatment

development, Elemis

“Demand for certified products and concern about the quality and origin of ingredients in skincare products is a growing trend. As a result, Halal certification is becoming sought after, particularly in countries like the UAE, where Voya has a presence. Due to this demand, Voya sought official Halal accreditation from the Halal Monitoring Committee (HMC), which we received in November 2013.”

Hollie Hastings, marketing executive, Voya

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world focus

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24 “2014 will be an exciting year with many new innovations. Targeted and express treatments will be one of the year’s growing trends. For “2014 will see the the consumer, the benefit of this type of continuing development of treatments is that they not only focus integrative spas. Spa-goers are on problem areas, such as increasingly looking for multiple benefits and I congestion, wrinkles or cellulite, but see more and more mainstream spas taking on an fit into their [hectic] schedules. overall healing role that covers skincare, fitness and Guinot’s 30-minute express mental health. City dwellers in particular are looking Hydraclean facial is the perfect for results and personal enrichment through intensive example of this. Multifunctional sessions. Spas that deal with this topic professionally products are also going to be in can and will represent the perfect balance high demand as they offer the between health, beauty and wellbeing.” benefits of a moisturiser alongside UV Tristan Lagarde, international sales protection, tint or anti-ageing manager, Phytomer properties.”

Guinot specialist, Ellie Semadeni “One trend for 2104 is cryotherapy, which uses extreme cold temperatures of down to -160°C and claims to make you look younger, while treating a myriad of health conditions such as arthritis, gout, sports injuries and even depression. It’s used by many sports teams, who believe the treatment is effective for faster healing.”

Deborah Mitchell, founder, Heaven Skincare

professional manager, Darphin

Voya

“The men’s market is growing. Clients’ time is very precious; therefore, we are also finding more demand for shorter treatments. Clients are now very knowledgeable about beauty and we see two trends appearing. One is that they are looking for treatments addressing specific areas, such as the eyes, décolletage and hands, or facials that integrate these [areas]. The second is that clients wish to bring the spa experience home. Therefore, Darphin gives tips on techniques to massage and stimulate the skin, and also sells a range to use at home.”

Sandrine Correia, institute strategy development and

Decléor

“We are finding our machine facials becoming more and more popular, particularly when combined “In 2014 customers will with the latest highly continue to seek multi-faceted effective serums and treatments that deliver results for both creams. There have been the face and body in one treatment. The big huge advances in emphasis for spas and salons next year will be ingredient technology, to offer bespoke treatments and products based particularly [when it on the needs of each individual client. With this in comes to] naturally mind, Décleor has created the Oressence Energy 3, sourced ingredients. a tailor-made face and body treatment that Clients and spas are a combines an award-winning facial mask with a lot more aware of these diagnostic [approach], for ultimate results.” developments and want Fiona Brackenbury, head of training to know more about how it and education, Décleor can benefit them. People want noticeable results from natural skincare and treatments and there are so many advances in natural ingredients that I really feel this is the area to watch in 2014.”

Geraldine Howard, president and co-founder,

Aromatherapy Associates

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Phytomer Heaven

“I think there will be a trend towards integrating the fundamental elements of wellbeing: fitness, nutrition, yoga and meditation, within the spa experience. Spa treatments need to be layered with other wellbeing factors to allow the guests to really feel rejuvenated and while hotel spas in more mature markets take some form of knowledge about how to lead will attempt to broaden their services. a healthier life home with them, [so they can] Technology will play a vital part in the immerse themselves in a better development of spa services and beauty way of living.” services in spas will still be in the Jeff Butterworth, chief spa ascendancy.”

Andrew Gibson, vice president of spa and and wellness officer,

Lux Resorts

wellness, Fairmont Raffles Hotels International

Operators’ opinions “Emotional engagement is the main trend I see at the moment. For spas, the key to wowing clients is now to surprise each guest with his or her autograph massage, based on that person and their mood and mind-set. For example, the Guerlain spa on the Champs-Elysées in Paris has cleverly downsized its menu to the bare minimum, allowing patrons to customise their treatments.”

Jean-Guy de Gabriac, founder, Tip Touch International “One trend I believe we will see more of is ‘brain health’ or ‘brain beauty’ – the incorporation into spas of tools that help clients feel not only physically well or beautiful, but also mentally healthier and happier. Another trend is that we will finally begin to incorporate nutrition into spa experiences in a greater way.”

Anna Bjurstam, owner, Raison d’etre

Guinot

“Wellness will move beyond “We’re seeing more of our spas and into hotel rooms members develop treatments and wellness will overtake that incorporate flowers. Many hotels the word spa in and resorts have flower gardens and are popularity, although including flowers in treatments, to enhance this does not mean the the benefits for spa-goers. Scent, in particular end of spa. Hotel spas lavender, is a powerful stress reduction tool in developing countries and by using these floral aromas in will be in the limelight treatments, you can take relaxation to a when it comes to new deeper level for the client.” spa announcements, Lynne McNees, president,

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Wellbeing Through COLOUR THERAPY Organic Products Made In France

Spadunya Distribution Middle East Shams 1 Plaza Level, The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence P.O. Box 74036 Dubai, United Arab Emirates T: +971 4 4298662 | F: 00971 4 4298663 info@spadunyadistribution-me.com • www.altearahbio.com Untitled-2 1

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27 classes, and in the increased [demand] for customisation.

Guests are looking for “Spa is evolving into long-lasting health wellness and in 2014 our industry benefits and inspiration will begin to reflect a growing for sustainable awareness of sustainable care of the inner lifestyle changes.” and outer environment. Manual therapies Karina Stewart, designed to repair and nourish our cellular environment will be complemented by mindful, holistic programmes, an emerging ecoconsciousness and the rediscovery of spa’s heritage – its healing waters.”

Anne Bramham, founder, Advanced

founder, Kamalaya Koh Samui Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa

Spa Therapy Education Certification Council (Astecc)

“Expect to see wellness, holism and personal health continue to accelerate spa and hospitality programming.

Anticipate a higher priority on emotional wellbeing, energy intelligence, and transformational life-skill programmes designed to increase both employee investment and guest engagement. Look for products and services dedicated to weight loss, detox, and disease prevention. Alternative health solutions and biotechnology will emerge stronger than ever, emphasizing personal development and bioconsciousness and laying the groundwork for critical future development and industry growth.”

“I believe the industry will see a growth in travel in 2014.

There are clear indications that more consumers are seeking rewarding and healthy holidays and spa is at the forefront to offer these types of experiences. I also predict that we will see increasing numbers of guests shift from 60-minute to 90 and even 120-minute sessions. Consumers are becoming more savvy about massage and are beginning to understand that longer sessions allow for more targeted work to be [carried out].”

CG Funk, vice president of industry relations and

Mia Mackman, founder and president, Arizona Spa & Wellness Association PB

product development, Massage Envy “One trend is the continued interest in a research-based, results-oriented and holistic approach to health and wellbeing, a proactive approach geared towards addressing lifestyle “One emerging trend through education, as well is experiential travel. The as through programmes trend will move towards spending and services. This can more time and effort on be seen in the increase understanding local traditions and in [popularity] of bringing them to life; mixing the local traditional therapies and more traditional with the modern and treatments from all spa experience.” over the world, such as Jeff Matthews, president and traditional Chinese chief operating officer, medicine, in the trends for Mandara Spa more participatory educational

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Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

Q: What are cosmeceuticals and how do they differ from typical skincare products?

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osmeceuticals are products carefully formulated and developed to obtain a biological response on a cellular level. Cosmeceuticals comprise ingredients and compounds with a medicinal undertone to assist in obtaining an optimal biological response in either stimulating or inhibiting certain cellular functions to inherently attain good cellular and skin health. The use of a cosmeceutical will result in optimal skin barrier function and anti-ageing. Clients will experience visible rejuvenation results.

Cosmeceutical ingredients and compounds are below the requirements stipulated by medical councils worldwide. For this reason, cosmeceuticals are safe to use by all, although it is strongly recommended that the product is “prescribed” by a skin therapist who can give advice dependent on the client’s skin concern, explain the proper application techniques, and the product’s properties.

It is always best practice to use products within the same brand category. The reason for this is that the active ingredients – and even the base ingredients – of a brand formulation are strategically developed. Each product within the range forms part of a “story”, with each product playing a key role to stimulate (or repress) particular cellular

functions. This is particularly true in the case of cosmeceutical brands. If you switch between various brands, it is likely that you will interrupt the aim of the cellular activations, resulting in a dilution of the best possible impact a range is designed to have. Factors such as pH levels, which can vary among different brands, also have the ability to disturb the skin acid mantle if the balance of the skin’s pH is not maintained.

That said, cosmeceuticals can work in harmony with day spa treatments like facials and peels if beauty professionals are properly trained to the various product characteristics and applications. Certain product technologies can work well together and certain technologies clash. For example, products with high acidity properties such as chemical peels should preferably not be mixed with products sensitive to acidic compounds (vitamins). A peel regime should thus first be completed fully before a vitamin and mineral treatment can commence.

Anton de Waal is CEO at Skin Sciences the exclusive distributor for the Optiphi range of products in the Middle East. The range includes professional products and an extensive retail range. For more information please call: +971 55 551 07 95

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae

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Q. How important is the male grooming market in the Middle East and how do I select the correct brand for my establishment?

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longside Asia and the Russian Federation, The Middle East is quickly becoming one of the three most important regions for a number of international spa and product houses that are either male specific or have a dedicated men’s offering.

The region benefits from high levels of disposable income on the part of both locals and expatriates, attractive tax structures – in the form of no VAT and low levels of import duty – and has, over the years, seen huge and growing numbers of tourists and business travellers.

The climate is obviously one factor: the dry, arid conditions, coupled with the damaging effects of the sun, has resulted in more education and interest on how to look and feel better. Further, local men take particular pride in their personal appearance. Many of the royal palaces include personal barber stations and many men in the region will have beard trims on an almost a daily basis.

The selection of both the right treatment menu and product range is essential in my opinion for the Middle East: men in the region are knowledgeable on the subject, interested to learn more and willing to pay a premium if they feel it will benefit them. They’re also incredibly loyal but expect a higher level of service than might be prevalent

in other parts of the world. I think Middle Eastern men in particular do want products that they know have been developed for them and also seem particularly subjective when it comes to both the smell and the packaging.

In addition, there seems to be a developing interest towards anti-ageing treatments and services and this is an area that I believe will continue to grow in strength over the coming years.

Obviously there are certain cultural and local laws that might impede offering what might be considered the norm in other regions but it certainly represents an area that Gentlemen’s Tonic wishes to continue developing both in terms of services and the retail and professional products it offers. Those businesses that can offer a more unique men’s treatment menu coupled with a product range that is male-focused will in turn capture a highly loyal, wealthy and interested client base in the future.

Olivier Bonneyfoy is the director of Gentlemen’s Tonic. For more information on its services and products in the Middle East call Blue Skies Trading F.Z.E, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 444 94 34

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31 Q: My clients often suffer from dry, brittle hair due to the climate here. What home care advice can I offer them?

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here are a number of things they can do. Firstly, it is very important that you help them understand their own hair type. For example, so many women believe they may have thick hair, when it is actually very fine but there is lots of it, and this makes it feel thick. Once your client understands their hair, you can better guide them on their home maintenance. If a client’s hair is dry and brittle due to the climate, I would encourage an intensive mask treatment with protein ingredients at least once a week. Phillip B in the UAE has a fantastic choice. It never does the hair any harm to leave the treatment on for longer than the instructions say. If anything in most cases, the hair is often crying out for a drink.

It is lacking hydration and moisture.

Regarding daily care, I would start with a sulphate-free shampoo. Certain sulphates clean the hair so much that they can strip out the natural oils in the hair; you would know this if your hair squeaks. I would also try sourcing silicone-free conditioners, which actually condition the hair. Silicone conditioners sit on the outside of the hair and give the perception of a silky feel. This is why, when using these products, the hair can sometimes feel heavy and greasy the following day.

Lastly, in the Middle East region hair experiences the most damage between 9am-5pm. This is from the sun, air conditioning, pollution and smoke so it’s very likely that hair here will dry out quickly and become very brittle. It was for this reason that I created Herra Protect, which I believe is the only product on the market that can bridge the gap to prevent daily damage and at the same time allowing the hair to retain its natural oils. Helping to hydrate while staying weightless and supporting against colour fade with UV protection.

James Davis is founder and director of Herra Hair Care, which was launched in 2013 and is one of the youngest brands to be partnered with British Airways.

For more information call: +971 4 374 69 39

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www.davines.com Healthcare Trading 04 447 7636

behind the scenes

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ON THE

scent

Geraldine Howard

Aromatherapy Associates is fast gaining popularity in the Middle East.

Fiona Vlemmiks catches up with the brand’s irrepressible co-founder, Geraldine Howard, to learn why

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aiting for me in the lobby of the new Conrad Hotel in Dubai’s commercial centre is Geraldine Howard co-founder and president of the globally successful Aromatherapy Associates.

With more than 35 years experience in the industry, Howard, who trained with aromatherapy pioneer Micheline Arcier, is still genuinely fervent about the therapeutic benefits of essential oils. Recently, her impassioned talk at the Spa Summit in India – when she related how aromatherapy sustained her during her battle with eye cancer – earned her a standing ovation, alongside none other than the Dalai Lama.

It was this battle that led Howard to create the first blend to be added to Aromatherapy Associates’ product line in 20-years – the Inner Strength bath and shower oil. Initially made for personal use, Howard was persuaded by colleagues to produce the oil commercially. It has since gone on to be one of the brand’s fastest selling products, with 10 per cent of the revenue from every bottle going towards the research into Defence Against Cancer Foundation, a charity helping to pioneer a new cancer vaccine treatment.

Promoting Inner Strength is partially the reason for Geraldine’s visit to the UAE; The ShuiQi spa at the Atlantis,

has just launched a signature treatment called Inner Strength, incorporating the oil, and Geraldine is also visiting just some of the growing number of spas to offer her products here. Spa partners include properties within the Jumeirah and Hilton groups to name but a few. The brand’s blend of quality, continual innovation and excellent training is proving a winning formula in our competitive market.

“We continue to work above and beyond to provide signature treatments, for individual spas, salons and their clients,” explains Howard. “We understand the importance of maximising revenue and keeping treatment costs low, and provide highly competitive retail product and treatment margins. We place a huge emphasis on staff training.

“Training is so important. If therapists are well-trained they will sell the product effortlessly, continues Howard. “If a therapist does her job properly the retail product should be ‘sold’ before the treatment begins. If you’ve had a great treatment, why wouldn’t you want to take the products home? In general, sales are lost in spas and salons because people don’t know what products have been used on them,” she adds.

As each Aromatherapy Associates treatment is tailored to the client, therapists receive thorough training on how to conduct a relevant consultation. Pre-treatment clients are then given a range of the oils to smell before they select Professional Beauty GCC March 2014

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Aromatherapy Associates flagship salon/boutique in the UK

nice but you wouldn’t necessarily get any Vitamin C benefits from one segment. You wouldn’t need the full orange for the fruit to be good for you.”

“If you’ve had Continual innovation is also at the heart of the a great treatment, brand’s success. In 2012 two machine-based why wouldn’t you treatments were launched with the design of want to take the products the Aroma Lift systems. The Aroma Radiance home? In general, sales Lift and Aroma Body Lift and Sculpt employ are lost in spas and salons electrical technology – microcurrent and the one they are most because people don’t attracted to. Post-treatment, galvanic current - to work in conjunction with know what products clients are then recommended the line’s natural products. have been used on the specific homecare line to Although there are no immediate plans for them” continue the benefits at home, further blends, some of the products in the most further encouraging retail sales. popular ranges will be expanded this year – such as the newly-launched Relax eye mask, Deep Relax Balm and The perfect blend Relax Body oil in the Deep Relax range.

Howard was studying cosmetic science at the London Howard believes there are massive opportunities in our School of Fashion when she met aromatherapy pioneer region and looks forward to further brand success here.

Micheline Arcier. “That’s how it all started! I was fascinated “Using essential oils comes naturally here to both men and by how beautiful Micheline’s skin was,” says Howard. “I women and spa plays a big role in people’s lives. You have thought, wow – I want skin like that!” some of the most sophisticated spas in the world in this She was soon hooked and switched her studies to region – there are lots of opportunities for this industry.” PB aromatherapy. She went on to found Aromatherapy Aromatherapy Associates is distributed by The Product Associates in 1985 with business partner Sue Beechey and House in the Middle East. For more information call: today they have has developed more than 100 products, +971 (4) 379 19 66 which are available in over 45 countries. The oil blends contain a concentration of 30% pure essential oil. A fact At the time of going to press Aromatherapy Associates that Howard believes further sets them apart from the was sold to B and B Investment Partners a new fund competition. established in November 2013 – with plans to invest in “Many products say they contain lavender oil, for health, wellness, beauty and personal care brands. example, but contain not nearly enough to be therapeutic.

Howard will stay with the company as president and This is where we stand out. I liken it to an orange. If I had a believes the sale will accelerate the global growth of whole orange and gave you one segment it would taste the business.

The popular Inner Strength oil

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MEDIA

matters With the number of social media users rising rapidly and steadily, businesses need an effective strategy to ensure they fully tap into the medium’s potential says Nora Elias

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ith 1.1billion monthly Facebook users, 665 million of whom check their accounts on a daily basis, and more than 200million regular Twitter users (according to recent figures released by the respective companies) businesses can hardly avoid becoming aware of the power of social media and the potential business punch it packs.

In an industry that has not always been quick to embrace online technology this does not, however, necessarily translate into a clear, cohesive and consistent social media strategy.

“There are a lot of businesses that will set up a Facebook page or a Twitter account and expect that to be the end of it – expect that people will just flock to it,” says Ian Mellett, who works with online and social media at Premier Software Solutions. Mellet and Premier founder Robert Miles both agree that this is, however, not nearly enough. “You have to actually drive traffic to these mediums,” Miles comments.

“Social media is like any other marketing facility; the business has to be prepared to put some weight behind it, in order for it to work.”

Time management

Book 4 Time

Lack of time is one argument raised by many businesses for why social media is not made a priority. As is staffing resources, particularly for smaller businesses. With forward planning and the use of easily accessible online tools, there are, however, ways around this. “Social media does require time and attention but there are tools that will allow you to schedule tweets and Facebook posts ahead of time,” says

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Molly Southern, marketing manager at Spa Booker, whose your staff aware, ask them to let you know if they come software management solutions include integrating across anything that might be interesting or relevant.” businesses’ different social media accounts and This last consideration, featuring content that offering the ability to make online bookings is of interest to existing and prospective through Facebook. “As an owner you can, customers is, however, an aspect that “The biggest mistake therefore, sit down on a Sunday night industry insiders find to be a sticking many businesses make and plan your social media marketing point. is being to ‘salesy’ and for the week,” she says. constantly pumping out Connor Keppel, marketing manager To sell or not to sell offers.

It’s actually about for software provider Phorest, agrees “The biggest mistake many businesses brand awareness and that social media engagement doesn’t make is being too ‘salesy’ and constantly the long-term effects have to be as time consuming as many pumping out offers,” Keppel says. of that” businesses believe. “Twitter is different, but “There’s a fear that if you’re not constantly on Facebook it can be enough to post once a trying to sell via social media, you will never day, so just spend 10 minutes a day finding get any sales out of it.” But the hard sell is, he different type of content to put up,” he says. “And make adds, the wrong approach. “It’s actually about brand

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build a decent following so businesses often become disheartened and give up too soon.

A long-term perspective is necessary for success.

“The majority of online bookings are still coming through websites. Facebook gets traction but people are not necessarily in the mind-set to book when they go on Facebook,” Keppel says. This is reinforced by Spa Booker’s Southern, who comments that: “At the end of the day, a spa or salon’s website is still its most important and most visited online tool.”

“The more you She does, however, add interact with clients “I would never suggest online, the more they’re focusing on just one particular method awareness, about building your brand going to talk about you of receiving bookings: to be successful, and the long-term knock-on effects and good reviews and you have to look across the board and that will have.” word of mouth equals utilise all the tools available to promote What you should be doing, Keppel more clients and more bookings wherever you can.” highlights, is posting content that business” It’s key to remember that you are not people will enjoy and engage with. “The building a community and acquiring an most successful spas and salons on online following for the sake of social media Facebook have a real mixture of content, itself, but for solid business reasons. You need to things that add value and that people will actually build a community, but the whole point of doing that is want to come back to and read more about,” he says. “The business, it’s to keep revenue coming in. content should always be led by what people are interested Regardless of the size, audience and location of your in hearing about. It’s all about the customer, not about the business, it’s important not to view your social media business.” Chatterley states that you “build loyalty and build presence as a standalone activity but rather as a a community by giving people value.” While this does of comprehensive, fully rounded business plan. “One problem course not mean that you cannot use your social media we come across is that a lot of people look at [social media] accounts to publicise offers and promotions, it’s important in isolation but it’s part of everything else and you need to to get the balance right. consider how it fits in with the rest of your marketing tools,” For instance a good equilibrium could be a 25% to 75% Keppel says. Beth Hendry, education manager for Shortcuts ratio selling and promotional tweets to useful information Software, whose management social media tools include tweets. One reason spas often find this method difficult to adhere to is the time it takes for the results to become the ability to book appointments on Facebook and to track which platforms online bookings are coming from, says the discernable. It could take between six and 12 months to company advises clients to maximise all available marketing opportunities.

“It’s always been the case that the best way to get new clients is by word of mouth, so use everything you can to get the word out,” she says. “Use social media, use your website and integrate them all: the more you can get your name out there, the better.”

Roger Sholanki, founder and chief executive of Book 4 Time, which provides Cloud-based management software solutions, does, however, warn against spreading yourself too thin when it comes to social media. “There are so many avenues available when it comes to social media and the key is to figure out what will work for you, because they won’t all be right for everyone.”

Phorest

The website factor

Spa Booker

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social media

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Premier Software Solutions

The answer, Sholanki continues, is to determine what you want to achieve with your social media presence, before rolling it out, and to begin by focusing on the platforms most relevant to your business.

“I would recommend picking one or two platforms initially and really mastering those,” he says. “Instead of going broad, go deep in those one or two areas, really get a handle on them and develop a deep engagement with your customers and prospects.

Once you have mastered those platforms, then start looking at other channels.”

That engagement is integral to social media success is agreed across the spa industry and beyond, with Hendry commenting that: “One of the main things about social media is the interaction you’ve got and at Shortcuts we try to get across to our clients that this interaction is key.”

“The more you interact with clients online, the more they’re going to talk about you and that’s going to generate more income – because good reviews and [word of mouth] equals more clients and more business,” she says. The team at Premier Software is of the same opinion. Mellett states: “The reason sites like Facebook and Twitter are such a great tool is that they’re a brilliant way of actually talking to the people who are your clients and there is not much else that gives you that kind of instant feedback.”

It is widely agreed within the industry that online reviews by customers have become an increasingly important part of the social media picture. “That kind of validation by other people, where it’s not just the business telling their followers something, but one of their existing customers saying it, carries an awful lot more weight than a business just running an advert saying how brilliant it is,” comments Miles.

The nature of the global online community means that while few businesses are keen to draw attention to bad reviews, they cannot afford to ignore negative feedback.

“These mediums are instant and global, so it’s very important to be open and honest,” Miles affirms. “If a customer comes back with a bad review, the business can’t just ignore it or delete it, because it will just get posted somewhere else.”

Instead, acknowledging and responding to a review, perhaps offering a solution to resolve the problem in the future, is advisable and helps limit damage to your reputation.

Southern states that: “Reviews are today crucial to consumers’ buying decisions. Their first instinct, before making a purchase, is to go online and see what other people are saying about you. So you have to be aware of reviews, and you have to respond to them.” PB

“You have to be aware of reviews, and you have to respond to them”

BOOK 4 TIME www.book4time.com PHOREST www.phorest.com PREMIER SOFTWARE SOLUTIONS www.premiersoftware.co.uk SHORTCUTS SOFTWARE www.shortcuts.co.uk SPA BOOKER www.spa-booker.com

Shortcuts Software

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17/2/14 13:31:14

training

professionalbeauty.ae

43 Continuous Professional Development is vital to any therapist intent on succeeding in the beauty and spa industry, but is it just a buzzword or do individuals really understand it? Sally Hewerdine demystifies CPD

Recording development

P

roof of training and experience has become a vital part of our career path. Beauty and healthcare professionals should be recording every element of their development, in particular certificates and accredited hours of training. Continual Professional

Development (CPD) is an investment each individual makes to themselves, a way of planning their development that links directly to their practice and their appraisal.

Having delivered many exit interviews over the years, the one thing that always struck me as odd in response to the question, “have you received any training in your time with us?” was that nine times out of ten the answer would be “no”. However, on probing the interviewee a little further it was almost guaranteed that we would come up with at least five examples of training, or workshops they had attended; often more!

“THERE ARE NO ABSOLUTE RULES AS TO WHAT IS CONSIDERED CPD, IF IT ENHANCES YOUR SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE AND STRENGTHENS YOUR PROFESSIONAL CREDIBILITY THEN YOU SHOULD RECORD IT” The simple matter of fact is that unless we record this information we forget it. Busy lives take over and we can’t be expected to remember everything. Failing to reveal training, however, is not only harmful to each individual in terms of progression but can result in demotivation.

Sometimes teams need to be reminded of how much investment is put into them.

The majority of us consider that CPD is gained by attending training courses and workshops and this is a vital part, but it goes far beyond this. In fact we can often gain more knowledge by simply reading an article in a magazine such as the one you are reading now or during a brainstorming session with your colleagues. There are no absolute rules as to what is considered CPD if it enhances your skills and knowledge and strengthens your professional credibility then it gets recorded.

In order for us to become “well-rounded professionals” we need to cover a range of competencies. The question you need to ask yourself is “did I learn something that I can use for my work?”

CPD can include any of the following: • Reading and/or research • ‘On-the-job’ learning • Experience of new or enhanced technology • Watching or listening to relevant programmes on TV or radio • Attending meetings • Organising study groups or workshops • Sharing knowledge and expertise • E-learning • Time spent as part of a task force to investigate a specific work-based problem • Service on committees or panels • Lunchtime presentations from suppliers or manufacturers

Guidelines for recording your CPD Anyone who is a member of a professional scheme, such as a trainer, may already need to log activity in order to remain a member. It may also be expected that everyone in a company keeps a record of their CPD and uses their appraisal process to review their learning and development over the year to ensure that their skills are kept up to date.

A typical process could be as follows: • Reflect on your role and responsibilities to identify the needs you may have • Act by undertaking activities to fulfil your development needs • Consider the impact and effectiveness of those activities in meeting those needs • Confirm by completing your CPD activity record which can be reviewed with your manager during your appraisal meeting. PB Sally Hewerdine is a spa and wellness specialist with 25-years experience. Her career has taken her around the world and has included a stint as a health and beauty editor in Dubai. Her recent passion is for training. This has inspired her to create ‘SpotlightOnSpa&Wellness’, a company designed to motivate and educate spa and wellness industry professionals.

Her new book, Driving Retail is available now, published by Lulu.

If you would like to acquire the tools for CPD please contact Sally, email: info@spotlightonspa-wellness.com Professional Beauty GCC March 2014

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Mii is looking to work with you.

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salon profile

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45

act

SISTER

Celebrating its 10-year anniversary in May, Sisters Beauty Lounge is one of the region’s success stories Fiona Vlemmiks catches up with the inspirational managing director Sara Abdulrazak

PB: Tell us about Sisters Beauty Lounge (SBL)’s journey to date:

PB: How do you recruit good therapists to ensure you have the right staff?

Sara: SBL was created by my mother, Shirin Abdulrazak, in 2004. A natural entrepreneur, she filled a gap in the beauty market in Dubai where a full concept ladies salon of high hygiene standards and beauty trends was needed. I joined the business in 2008 and opened a larger flagship store based on the same principles in Dubai Mall. Armed with my business degree from Boston, USA, I developed the brand further with a more prominent focus on hair and fashion trends. We then opened five more branches in the UAE and have started franchising internationally.

Sara: The team travels to the UK and Phillipines every year to meet potential staff face-to-face and conduct mini trade tests on their skills. Other than that we advertise locally for those who are in the UAE or who are visiting so we can meet them and test their skills in Dubai. We also Skype with potential international candidates for important positions and bring them over to Dubai for a short trip to continue their assessment.

PB: That’s very impressive! Can you share your recipe for success?

Sara: Research is the most important part of any business. From the outside it looks like a very easy, simple business. Yet without intense research on your clients, location, government laws and services it is very easy to become overwhelmed and fail in this business.

It’s also very important to empower your staff to make decisions and hence feel that they are a big part of the business.

PB: What do your consider to be your unique selling points?

Sara: We offer multiple treatments that can be done at the same time. UAE women are either very busy mothers or working women who have a lot of responsibilities and little time to waste. They are fully informed and knowledgeable and have high expectations for their beauty services. We offer a special station where manicure, pedicure, blow-dry, back massage and eyebrow threading can be done all at once. Most of our clients opt to have multiple treatments at once to complete treatments quickly. We pride ourselves in maintaining very clean, hygienic and disposable equipment for all treatments.

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Gerrard International does not currently hold a licence to distribute in the UAE.

s k o . o l l r l i o F at K th

We realise that looks are important to your customers. But we also know that looks alone won’t last forever. That’s why we’ve taken the feedback from thousands of women who use spas and beauty salons to develop a complete range of makeup that has the feel of something that has been created just for them. One that combines killer looks with beautifully packaged education and support to ensure that you are able to offer your customers all that they ask for.

Mii is looking to work with you.

For more information on offering Mii and becoming a distributor, please contact Gerrard International.

E: danielle.gerrard@gerrardinternational.com | T: +44 (0) 161 980 2333 | W: miicosmetics.com

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male salon grooming profile

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47

the services. Our clients do complain of dry hair and hair loss so we stock water purifiers at every branch to retail to clients. They are easily attached to UAE women home showers to filter the chemicals in the are either very busy water. During the summer months, dry, mothers or working dehydrated skin is also a concern so we women who have a lot have a wide range of moisturisers and of responsibilities and SPF creams for all skin types. We also little time to waste. They provide nourishing hair masks and face are fully informed and masks for clients who need them.

“

PB: Who makes up your client base?

knowledgeable and have Sara: As we are mainly high expectations PB: What are the particular located in large, busy malls, we for their beauty challenges and opportunities of have clients of all types, from services” operating in the GCC? residents who live around the Sara: The beauty industry in this region is huge shopping mall catchment area to and growing; the opportunities are endless. However, tourists that are just visiting. A lot of our clients visit us in different branches based on which we don’t have the advantage of many beauty or hair shopping mall they are in at that time, as they know they academies and schools like in the US and Europe so it is a challenge to find good, well-trained staff. This is something will get the same service from us at every branch.

I predict will evolve in the future and hopefully beauty or PB: How do you manage to serve such a hair will become a solid career path for locals and expat multicultural client base effectively? residents alike.

Sara: We provide English and Arabic treatment menus for the two main languages of this country. We also employ a PB: What is your vision for SBL in 2014 multi-cultural, international team that speak various and beyond? languages and pair up the most appropriate staff member Sara: A year and a half ago we created a children’s concept called Caboodle, a Pamper and Play area for children in with each client for ease and comfort if necessary.

Dubai Mall. We have recently opened the second branch PB: What is your most popular treatment? at Citywalk, which is our little “baby”. We hope to grow Sara: We became the distributors of Lash Perfect from the this into multi-branches. We have also started franchising UK six years ago when there were no good lash and brow internationally and hope to continue to spread the Sisters brands based in the UAE. Bespoke lash and brow designs name worldwide! are now huge in the UAE with plenty of clients addicted to PB: Finally, what has been your greatest achievement with SBL?

Sara: In May, we will celebrate our 10-year anniversary. It has been a crazy and wonderful ride over the last 10 years building the brand and reputation. It brings me great pleasure to meet new people who know the brand and speak highly of our concept. Our staff success stories is another achievement we feel every day, whether they have grown immensely in terms of skills, or saved enough to build a house in their own country, making a difference in their lives is a big achievement. PB

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18/2/14 11:10:06

lashes and brows

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Joico

TIME They’re becoming some of the most in-demand services on the salon menu, but eye treatments present a host of challenges. Read Professional Beauty’s guide on how to offer clients gorgeous brows and lashes – safely

B

row and lash treatments are big business in today’s market. Thanks to the bold brows of high fashion golden girl Cara Delevingne, and the likes of Kim Kardashian fluttering luscious, inch-long lashes at the paparazzi, treatments attending to the eye area

have soared in the last two years, and their popularity among a variety of demographics makes them a lucrative addition to a treatment menu.

However, the eye area is arguably the most sensitive and delicate of a client’s body so as these treatments become

more popular and readily available, so does the potential for mistakes and problems. Dyes used in tints or glues can cause allergic reactions in clients with sensitive skin.

Infections can be transferred via unsterile equipment, or from the therapist’s hands if they have not been cleaned properly.

To be professional and safe, patch tests should be given to ensure that clients will not react adversely to the dyes and glues used in the products. Extra time should be built into a treatment to allow for the thorough cleaning of equipment, the treatment area and a therapist’s hands between clients.

While well-trained therapists are well versed in the risks and best practices of lash and brow treatments, problems could arise if people with poor qualifications and little training treat clients. Conjunctivitis, sties and even chlamydia can be passed by unsterilised equipment or a therapist’s hands. Nilam Patel, co-founder of HD Brows, points out the risk of bacterial infections of the hair follicles, such as folliculitis or furuncle, as well as fungal infections such as candidiasis.

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lashes and brows

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HD Brows

PB’s eye treatment cheat sheet

Kerie Hoy, UK master trainer for Billion Dollar Brows, explains that building extra time into a treatment for thorough cleaning of equipment is essential. “We book out time so therapists have the opportunity to sterilise their hands, clean the treatment area and sanitise the tools ready for the next client,” she says. “That’s a must.”

While lash and brow treatments represent a growing trend that’s ripe to be capitalised upon, the time investment required to train therapists to an appropriate standard is high, particularly for the more specialist treatments like extensions. Hoy says to use the trade press to check out any suppliers you’re considering taking on. “You definitely get what you pay for,” says Beverley Piper, director of the Eyelash Design Company which owns the Lash Perfect brand. “When working around the eyes it is essential to use a range of products that you know are safe an effective.

Safe practice is always essential but around the eyes it’s absolutely crucial.”

We asked representatives from some of the leading lash and brow companies for a step-by-step guide on how to achieve the best results safely:

• Time to talk “It’s essential to have a thorough consultation with the client before the treatment, including reviewing and updating the medical record,” says Nilam Patel. Listen out for warning signs, like allergies to food or skincare that could indicate a possible reaction.

• Stay sterile “When I started out Nouveau Lashes everyone had sterilisers to put their tools in but that’s died down now. It needs to be turned around,” says Kerie Hoy. Make time for equipment to be thoroughly cleaned between treatments.

• Hand in glove “We always recommend that you use gloves when you work as close to the eye as we do,” says Ruth Atkins, beauty therapy business consultant at Salon Services. Be sure to maintain impeccable personal hygiene and clean hands.

• Bad patch Testing tints and dyes prior to a treatment to check for allergies is essential. “Both clients and therapists need to be aware that patch testing needs to be done before a tint,” says Hoy. HD Brows • Super glue The same applies to glues used in lash extensions. “But not by putting it on the skin,” warns Atkins. “That will make anyone’s skin flare up. Apply one lash on each eye and make sure there’s no irritation after 24 hours.” You could try stocking an additional glue for sensitive eyes.

• After hours “Don’t forget to give bespoke and thorough aftercare advice, too,” says Patel. Make sure clients know what they can’t do to their brows and lashes. PB

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Global medispa

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54

In the

clear

We highlight the latest news in lasers and IPL with our report from the UK. With pigmentation a growing concern, laser and IPL treatments are coming into their own. Eve Oxberry explores the options

P

igmentation is fast catching up with wrinkles as the key ageing-related skin concern as women are realising all the botox in the world won’t make their skin look younger if too much sun has left it speckled and uneven.

According to a new survey from laser specialist Syneron Candela in the UK, it’s the second most common skin problem for women, with 16 per cent saying they were worried about pigmentation – second only to lines and wrinkles at 24 per cent.

Laser and IPL machines treat pigmentation through selective photothermolysis. The pigmented lesion absorbs the light and converts it to heat, which damages the cells and causes them to be removed by the body, either by rising to the surface of the skin, or via the lymphatic system. This means machines need to deliver high energy in short bursts to be powerful enough to damage the melatinocytes without harming surrounding tissue.

While many salons and spas stock skincare to help with pigmentation, the majority have not made the step towards more aggressive treatments. In fact, if salons do use lasers or IPL machines, they tend to use them for hair removal and not skin rejuvenation.

One reason is the initial outlay. “Cheaper machines specialise solely in hair removal. Essentially, the more treatment options a machine has, the more financial investment required,” says Advanced Esthetics Solutions sales and training educator Kim Sebry.

Market forces With fewer salons offering light-based pigmentation treatments, they can give operators a great point of difference. “You have fewer competitors so you don’t get the sort of cut price offers that you get with laser hair removal,” says Energist global marketing manager Eddie Campbell-Adams.

Of course the smaller target market can be an issue – hair removal can potentially be sold to any client that walks through the door whereas skin rejuvenation, while it may help the majority, is only usually taken up by those with a specific problem to solve. But with concern about pigmentation on the rise, the market is growing and laser and IPL can achieve fantastic results that impact the way a client feels as well as how she looks.

Dr Sabika Karim, medical director of London’s two Revere Clinics, uses Syneron Candela machines to treat pigmentation and tells of one patient who used to wait

ABOVE: Before and after one Lynton IPL treatment

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Global medispa

professionalbeauty.ae

55 LEFT: Ellipse skin rejuvenation treatment

Syneron Candela was a frontrunner in combining light energy with RF. Its newer Sublative technology has enhanced the impact by using fractionated bipolar radio frequency to push heat energy into the dermis, with minimal disruption to epidermal cells, meaning faster healing. As national trainer for Ellipse and Venus Systems, Georgina Cherry recommends suggesting clients come in for a Venus radiofrequency and magnetic pulse treatment two weeks after Ellipse IPL as it tightens the skin, giving the finishing touch to an anti-ageing package. until her family were asleep to take off her make-up then get up before them to put it on. “We’re treating the pigmentation and gradually she’s wearing less full coverage make-up, which is having a huge effect on her confidence,” she says.

As well as ageing clients, pigmentation can be a particular concern for those with darker skin types. “It’s a problem with acne scarring,” says dermatologist Dr Maria Gonzalez, who works out of various UK clinics and also uses Syneron Candela lasers. “In dark and Asian skins there can be both loss of pigmentation and darkening in the scars and sometimes that is more of a concern for the patient than the acne.”

Hit the right spot Recognising different types of pigmentation and discerning which can and can’t be treated is key to the success, and of course the safety, of treatment. While laser and IPL can work wonders on sun spots, it is dangerous to treat moles or anything that could be cancerous. “There are contraindications on anything that’s raised, red, open or sore to touch,” says Josh Yardley, partner at Cosmedico Medical.

Cold comfort

Perfect packages There are many other possibilities for layering other technologies or products with laser or IPL to create targeted pigmentation packages or facials.

IPL pigmentation treatments can be used as part of a package with microdermabrasion but not on the same day. Microdermabrasion treatments will take off the dead cells and the IPL can penetrate for a better result.

Sebry suggests using LED treatments after IPL. “If there is any inflammation you can very quickly reduce redness while further utilising the benefits of specific wavelengths,” she adds.

Post-treatment masks can also help with inflammation and of course when it comes to home care there’s no more important recommendation than broad spectrum SPF. With operating costs low and demand on the up, the profit potential for light-based pigmentation treatments is, like the skins they treat, becoming clear. PB BELOW: Syneron Candela uses Sublative technology in its Elos Plus system

Technology has also developed in recent years to make it more comfortable, which in turn has increased the efficacy, as clients are able to withstand more powerful treatments. Sebry, who trains clients in Advanced Esthetics Solutions’ sapphire built-in chilling system, says cooling makes a huge difference. “In adding client comfort we are typically able to increase the energy used also, providing quicker results.”

Certain systems also now have interchangeable light guides that allow very small areas to be treated. “These are perfect for age spots as they allow high energies to be administered without risk of overheating surrounding tissue,” says Hayley Hutchings, aesthetic sales and marketing manager for Lynton Lasers.

Combining laser or IPL with radiofrequency (RF) can also enhance results. “It allows the treatment to be faster and less painful because RF is more selective in its target than IPL so it allows an increase of thermolysis only in the target pigment,” says Yardley. “The only side effect is stimulation of collagen, so that’s a bonus.”

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Now: The new gym area at ShuiQi Spa and Fitness is designed to create fluidity and free movement of energy

The perfect fit

“We incorporated the feeling of wellness, moving away from the intimidating environment that can be associated with a gym facility”

Serge Zaalof, president and managing director of Atlantis, The Palm

Convincing guests to frequent both treadmill and treatment room can be notoriously challenging. Yet an innovative revamp at Atlantis, The Palm’s ShuiQi Spa is offering guests a cohesive wellness experience

T

he fitness area at the award-winning spa has undergone a major transformation, featuring natural materials and sustainable equipment to create a synergy between the spa and gym areas.

“Traditional” gym machinery has been jettisoned and replaced with state-of-the-art equipment from Technogym.

ShuiQi is the first venue in the Middle East to install Technogym’s Artis range, which comprises an integrated collection of cardio, strength and functional equipment.

The revamp, which took around six weeks to complete, was undertaken by design company Tao and features “earthy” materials such as wood and stone, clean, fine lines and natural light to create an open, airy space based around a circular core to create fluidity and free movement of energy.

Neil Hewerdine, vice president of spa services at Atlantis, The Palm, comments: “We decided to renovate ShuiQi Spa and Fitness Centre with the intention of developing an experience that would exceed the already high expectations of our guests. In order to do this, we ensured we went straight to the top for the design and equipment fit out.”

The Artis equipment is environmentally friendly, with reduced energy consumption. Human energy produced during exercise can also be fed back in to the building’s energy grid to help power the gym.

Promoting further collaboration between spa and gym, ShuiQi is offering wellness experiences such as the combination of a personal training session, followed by a restorative wellness massage to increase circulation and soothe aching muscles, combined with stretching techniques to promote greater flexibility and enhanced range of motion.

“At Atlantis, our aim is to blow away our customers,” says Serge Zaalof, president and managing director of Atlantis, The Palm.

“In an effort to ensure we continually strive for perfection and remain at the forefront of technology and trends in the fitness world, we incorporated the boutique feeling of wellness at ShuiQi Spa & Fitness Centre, moving away from the intimidating environment that can be associated with a gym facility.” PB www.atlantisthepalm.com

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As nature intended

This month’s face and body treatments focus on promoting beauty from within, plus a dramatic eyebrow makeover LPG – New Endermolift treatment Dubbed the “natural facelift” an exciting new innovation from LPG promises dramatic results without drastic measures. The new technique – launched in the Middle East in January – is the only one in the world scientifically proven to increase the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid by 80 per cent.

The new Endermolift technology aims to provide “skin fitness” in this ultimate anti-ageing treatment, which rejuvenates skin from within using LPG’s new, patented Eroglift treatment head.

The Ergolift employs motorised pulsating flaps for multidimensional stimulation of the skin - sequential suction and targeted cell stimulation to increase skin firmness by 23 per cent, elastin by 46 per cent and smoothing wrinkles by 21 per cent according to scientific studies. The treatment is perfect for this region where skin is ravaged by extreme sun exposure and constant air-conditioning.

LPG has also designed a range of furniture to complement the machine, designed to allow businesses to use the machine outside of treatment rooms if desired.

More than 40 treatments, lasting from 10 to 30 minutes, can be offered with the technology and treatments are suitable for both men and women. The LPG Soins Techniques skincare line allows clients to continue results at home.

The new technology is available in the form of the new Mobilift M6 and Cellu M6 machines but older LPG models

can also be upgraded with the purchase of a New Endermolift Pack which combines the Ergolift treatment head, new protocols, training, and marketing kit.

Our Verdict: I decided to try the express 10-minute treatment, focusing on my eye area. My therapist removed my make-up before applying the Total Eye Care cream to my skin. She then started using the machine (which was quiet and nonintrusive) on my eye area, and although I could feel the area gently being stretched and toned, the experience was definitely relaxing. My forehead and jaw were then worked on using a different setting on the machine. One of the features of the technology is its simple touch screen, making it easy for even the most technophobic therapist.

Just tap the image of the face on the screen and the machine will adjust its setting automatically to suit the area you are treating.

I didn’t expect to see results after a single, express treatment but my vision felt clearer and the eye area less congested immediately after the treatment. When I applied make-up later in evening I was surprised that the area around the eye appeared plumper, smoother and definitely more radiant.

To find out more about LPG in the GCC please call on +971 4 380 41 23 Tried by Fiona Vlemmiks

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59 Thalgo – Ultimate Time Solution Ritual The Ultimate Time Solution Ritual showcases the marine expert’s latest patented technology, Age Reverse Complex with ingredients including natural algae hormones and Egyptian fig extract, which help stimulate the fibroblasts to provide the skin with a structural framework and help firmness. wThe treatment is aimed at clients aged 50-plus, with dry, mature skin.

The 90-minute ritual is based around Thalgo’s Energilift Massage to help remodel the architecture of the skin and is performed after a deep cleanse. The massage uses the newly formulated Ultimate Time Solution Serum, which firms and targets dark spots, and Massage Cream. The collection’s mask is then applied, infusing the skin with hyaluronic acid while a hand massage is performed. The treatment ends with the Ultimate Time Solution Cream, Eyes and Lips products being massaged into the skin.

For more information please call: Madi, Dubai on +971 4 252 52 66 or Abu Dhabi + 971 2 666 82 05

Morjana – Rituals French beauty brand Morjana has launched a collection of relaxing facials, revitalizing body therapies, and signature rituals using completely natural products.

The three new, targeted and results-driven treatments employ Morjana’s signature ingredient of Argan oil, which is combined with the power of essential oils and botanical extracts.

For the eyes, treatments include the Fascination Ritual, the Nomad Secrets Ritual for the body and for face care, the Sublime Ritual.

The Fascination ritual has been designed specifically for the Middle East to target fine lines, drain puffiness, hydrate and eliminate dark circles.

The Secrets ritual commences with a facial cleanse using Gentle Rose Milk and the body is cleansed with Black Soap, followed by massage and the application of Jasmine Shea butter. Then the body is softened with oriental oils and further moisturised with Morjana Shea butter cream. The treatment repairs, firms, softens and regenerates the skin.

The facial treatment, The Sublime Ritual, is designed to stimulate circulation and revive tired-looking skin using aromatherapy products. It is deeply hydrating and suitable for skin that has become dry due to weather conditions. The facial ritual is performed with Morjana’s Sublime Peeling products combined with the Melting Honey and the Sublime Cream.

A homecare retail line complements the treatments.

Morjana is distributed by Collection Privé in the Middle East.

For more information please call Collection Privé on +971 4 323 26 76 / +971 4 323 24 41

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60 Our Verdict:

Lash Perfect: Hi Brows “Power brows” are big news in the Middle East and the Hi Brow treatment from Lash Perfect, promises the perfect brow with a truly bespoke brow service. After a thorough consultation in which the therapist measures the angle of the client’s brow and chooses the arch that best compliments the face, the brow is tinted to the desired shade as well as waxed - with a special warm face wax for sensitive skin - threaded and tweezed to perfection. To finish the look, the therapist then uses a mineral natural concealer, which does not block the open pores, to cover any redness.

Customised aftercare is also proved in this 45-minute treatment. Depending on hair growth, the shape could stay for three to four weeks and the tint around one week. A Hi Brow palette to shade in the eyebrows between treatments can also be retailed alongside a wax pencil, brow or lash serum and other products.

I am looking forward to seeing if this treatment can truly transform my eye area. Before the treatment, my left eyebrow is especially overplucked, straggly and thin. My therapist Chloe, who is also a Hi Brow trainer, commences with a very thorough consultation, taking the time to find out my eyebrow preferences in terms of shape and colour, and if I have any allergies. She offers helpful advice on what will suit my oval face shape, and on what look can be achieved with my eyebrows. We both agree that my brows would look better with a slight arch, which will give my face a lift and define my eyes.

Chloe prepares my brow area before taking careful measurements and then commences the treatment. The waxing and threading treatments are pain free and quick. When Chloe hands me the mirror I am truly amazed by my new brows. They are thicker, with a noticeable arch and, most importantly, appear equal in thickness. The new colour brings definition to my eye area and I can see no redness thanks to Chloe’s careful concealing.

Chloe explains that she has had to do some shading to achieve the perfect shape and recommends the Hi Brow products necessary for me to recreate the look at home until my eyebrows grow back; the dark brow pallete to fill in gaps and the Smoothing Wax Pencil to fix stray hairs. She also recommends the Growth and Conditioning serum, which stimulates hair growth and nourishes the hairs, explaining that even eyebrows need to be conditioned in this area of the world due to the water and climate. Chloe suggests I can return in two weeks for Hi Brow maintenance tidy-up or in four to six weeks for a full Hi Brow experience. I can see why eyebrow treatments are addictive. Even after washing my face, my eyebrows still look fantastic. The next day, an added bonus is that I definitely need less make-up.PB Lash Perfect and Hi Brow is distributed in the UAE by Sisters Beauty Lounge.

For more information telephone: +971 2 222 25 01 Tested by: Fiona Vlemmiks

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new products

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62 Jane Iredale Perfect for dryness, dehydration and inflammation, Jane Iredale has come up with three reformulated hydrating products.

The sprays have been awarded Ecocert’s natural and organic certification and have a fresh, clean fragrance to hydrate the skin, protect it from heat and set makeup.

The sprays are 100 per cent natural and 30 per cent organic. The D2O Hydration Spray is a facial spritz with ylang ylang to hydrate and plump skin cells, calm and protect the skin, for clients with normal to dry skins. The Balance Hydration Spray is formulated specifically to help balance the skin’s oil production and pH level. It contains tangerine flower water, combined with grapefruit extract, chamomile, myrrh and seaweed extracts to calm and feed the skin.

It also works to set minerals for a long-lasting, smooth finish and helps protect from bacteria. It is best suited for clients with normal to oily skins. The Pommiss Hydration Spray has the added benefit of pomegranate extract, a powerful antioxidant and UV protector also known to help protect against skin cancer. It is used to set makeup bases and conceal pores and fine lines.

Call: +971 4 447 76 36

Getting fresh This month’s products offer anti-ageing and rejuvenating solutions to refresh tired skin

Kerstin Florian The new Brightening Facial Treatment from Kerstin Florian aims to correct dull, dry, ageing and hyperpigmented skin all in one step. Using ingredients such as red algae, Chinese mushrooms and black tea ferment, the product promises to fade dark spots and brighten skin.

Call: +971 4 379 19 66

Comfort Zone Skin Regimen is a new cosmeceutical range, catering for those showing the first signs of ageing right through to those with mature, deeply wrinkled and depleted skin.

The Hydra-Pro Booster and Juvenate-Pro Booster are intensive, corrective and protective serums containing hyaluronic acid. The Hydra-Pro Cream Gel and Juvenate-Pro Rich Cream are anti-ageing and moisturising. The Night Renewer is an intensive peeling mask to deeply revitalise the skin while maximising the action of the other products.

The Duo Cleanser is a multi-action cleansing milk and toner in one, which removes make-up and the effects of pollution while toning the skin.

Call: +971 4 447 76 36

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Novalash The Novalash Aftercare kit has been designed to protect lash extensions and extend their wear. The kit includes a three-in-one cleanser, conditioner, make-up remover pads and water-soluble mascara. The pads are saturated with pomegranate oil to condition the extensions and keep them flexible. The kit’s ingredients are free of glycol and carbonates which can break down adhesive bonds.

Call: Dubai +971 4 252 52 66 or Abu Dubai + 971 2 666 82 05

Caci The people at Caci International, leaders in non-surgical solutions and creators of the world-renowned ‘NonSurgical Face Lift’, have launched their first at-home, anti-ageing gadget – the Caci Microlift.

The gadget will open up new retail opportunities for salons, spas and retail outlets. It allows clients to be able to continue their Caci experience and prolong the effects of salon treatment in their own home with a 10-minute session that will tone, lift and reduce wrinkles. The only at-home gadget to utilise Caci’s salon microcurrent technology, the machine uses a patented, muscle-gripping action unique to Caci and is light and portable enough for a client to take with them on their travels.

Call: +44 208 731 56 78

Aromatherapy Associates Aromatherapy Associates has introduced its new Renewing Rose Hand Cream, to help prevent the effects of ageing. Massaged in daily, the combination of ingredients including kukui nut oil, high in omega six, and sea daffodil will hydrate and smooth skin, reducing the appearance of age spots, promoting healthy looking skin.

Call: +971 4 379 19 66

Sisley Sisley’s new treatment, Sisley Youth, has been specifically designed to target ageing skin, by protecting the stem cells we can lose. Pea extract and vitamin E help to defend the skin against the perils of ageing, while the combination of buckwheat seed stimulates the skins metabolism, combating any signs of fatigue.

Used daily the silky formula will replenish ageing skin, offering clients a refreshed feel.

Call: +971 4 227 96 66

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Elemis Elemis has launched two body scrubs. The Frangipani Monoi Salt Glow is rich in natural compounds, including coconut oil and hibiscus flower along with its eponymous ingredients that condition the body.

The Skin Nourishing Body Scrub is a gentle formula to help exfoliate and brighten the skin.

Call: +971 4 324 54 14

Thalgo

Ocóo

Thalgo has introduced BB Cream Perfect Glow, which aims to improve radiance, conceal, hydrate and protect the skin’s natural beauty. The light formula means that it can be used as part of an everyday beauty regime or after a facial to preserve a soft salon glow. BB Cream Perfect Glow comes in three shades: Ivory, Natural and Golden.

Call: Dubai +971 4 252 52 66 or Abu Dubai + 971 2 666 82 05

Launched in the UAE last April, Ocóo is a fruity, health drink containing a wholesome mix of vitamins, minerals and trace elements that are scientifically proven to enhance and sustain the beauty of the skin and hair and boost collagen levels. With a low calorie count (48 calories per 250 ml bottle only) and naturally free from added sugar or preservatives, it is perfect for the health-conscious.

In addition to carefully selected red and blue beauty berries, Ocóo, invented in Germany, also consists of a healthy blend of biotin, zinc, selenium, copper and iodine as well as vitamins B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, C and E. The drink is packaged in 100% recyclable aluminum fusion bottles and has been certified ‘halal’. Ocóo is European Union FSA approved and certified as suitable for pregnant women and children.

Call: +971 4 440 40 40

Phytoceane The Mediterranean-inspired shower gel and body cream in this gift set, invites clients to bring a holiday feel into their homes. Using only sustainable and natural marine ingredients, the products will hydrate and tone the skin.

Call: +971 04 345 46 46

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67 Dermalogica The new UltraSmoothing Eye Serum is designed to combat skin irritation around the eye area, fine lines and wrinkles. It employs a powerful cocktail of ingredients to treat the signs of ageing, while soothing and protecting the reactive, delicate eye-area tissues.

Ingredients include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a water-soluble form of Vitamin C, which is effective in low concentrations and therefore does not cause irritation. Hexapeptide-11, is derived from yeast and consists of six amino acids which firm the skin, help improve elasticity and reduce fine lines.

Puffiness is tackled with botanical extracts, using two sulfated polysaccharides from harpoon weed (asparagopsis) and Norwegian kelp (ascophyllum), algae native to Ouessant Island off the Brittany coast of France.

Call: +971 4 447 76 36

Mavalia The make-up line from the makers of Mavala nail polish has been extended with a new lipstick collection featuring a variety of fruit-inspired hues, including a raspberry pink and a creamy tangerine. Its pigment formula produces an intense build up of colour and shine. The inclusion of moisturising shea butter, vitamin E and aloe ensures lips are kept supple and smooth.

Call: Dubai +971 4 252 52 66 or Abu Dubai + 971 2 666 82 05

Mii Mii is offering a 100% mineral make-up range, which can be used by therapists as an add-on to facial treatments, for make-up clients, and for retail sales.

The range is perfect for sensitive skin, from Rosacea to Acne so can be used post-treatment. The minerals working in harmony with the client’s natural tone, gradually releasing their delicate colour as they warm to the skin.

Mii’s blend includes precious gemstones that work to actively energise and revitalise the complexion, replenishing natural mineral levels offering protection from sun damage.

The display includes five Mineral Irresistible Face Bases, Mineral Divine Illuminator, a kabuki brush and a helpful guide to application and colour matching.

Call: +44 (0) 161 980 23 33

Davines The Davines Naturaltech line – which is free from sulphates and parabens – is designed to plump, protect and moisturise hair.

The mild shampoo promises to restore elasticity and provide hydration to the hair, without altering its structure during shampooing. It also has protective ingredients – phytoceuticals extracted from plums – which contain a high vitamin and mineral content and are rich in polyphenols and flavonoids with anti-free radical properties. The conditioner also offers elasticising and moisturising properties, while protecting and helping to detangle the hair.

The range’s Replumping Hair Filler is a leave-in lotion that fills out the hair structure thanks to the moisturising action of hyaluronic acid. Sprayed on towel-dried hair before styling, it helps set the hair and has an effective antihumidity action to help make the hair full-bodied and shiny.

Call: +971 4 447 76 36

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Diary dates MARCH 8-9 AESTHETICS CONFERENCE AND EXHIBITION 2014 Business Design Centre, London The largest professional event to focus solely on the medical aesthetics industry.

Visitors can view the latest product, service and technique innovation and hear from world-renowned medical aesthetic experts. There will be networking opportunities, lectures, workshops and masterclasses as well as business seminars and customer service workshops.

MARCH 21 – 23 BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF Germany An international trade fair for cosmetics, nails, wellness and spa. In addition to presenting new products, treatments and services the practice-oriented supporting programme, with over 100 events provides opportunities for further training. www.beauty-international.com MARCH 30 – 2 APRIL SPATEC SPRING NORTH AMERICA The Ballantyne Hotel, Charlotte, North Carolina, USA Key operators from hotel, resort, destination and day spas can meet with

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domestic and international suppliers in a series of one-on-one meetings. Both buyers and suppliers get to choose who they would like to meet with and are each given a schedule of meetings. www.spatecna.com/spring/spatec-spring-2014 APRIL 4-7 COSMOPROF Bologna, Italy An annual exhibition for the professional beauty sector – including exhibitors from the worlds of perfumery, cosmetics, natural health, packaging and contract manufacturing, beauty salon and spa, hair and nails. www.cosmoprof.com APRIL 1-3 IN-COSMETICS Hamburg, Germany In-cosmetics brings together global personal care ingredients suppliers, formulators, R&D and marketing specialists, and showcases a diverse range of innovative cosmetic ingredients and technologies. www.in-cosmetics.com

Don’t Miss...

MARCH 4 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BANGALORE India Top brands, inspiring ideas, great networking and serious business opportunities: the stage is set for Professional Beauty India.

The event will showcase the beauty world’s best-known hair, skin, make-up, nails, and furniture brands. The genuine trade-only event enables professionals from across the beauty industry to meet the right people, discover the latest innovations and be updated on the forthcoming trends, all in one place. www.professionalbeauty.in

SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae

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Call us on +971 56 352 2906 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae

consultancy

training

Spa Consultancy Services

The Product House

Planning, innovative concepts, development, operations know-how to create an unforgettable spa experience for your guests.

Developing memorable spas for over 30 years, we offer a global approach combining the best of both the eastern and western world of spas.

Register Now for our 2014 CIBTAC endorsed Massage & Facial Courses

For all of your spa development needs, contact us at: Spa Concepts International ~ ActualSpas +1 707 9390101 ~ +971 50 8594100 eva@spaconcepts.com michele@actualspas.com

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When: 17th February to 12th March Where: The Product House, Planters Alley, Warehouse 12, Street 4a, District 364, Al Manara Junction, Al Quoz, Dubai, UAE For registration & info contact: Meara Laine Dougherty Operations Manager | training6@theproducthouse.biz

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training

dental services

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for our 2014 Finance Course Boost your performance & improve spa revenue When: 4th & 5th March | 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM Where: The Product House, Planters Alley, Warehouse 12, Street 4a, District 364, Al Manara Junction, Al Quoz, Dubai, UAE For registration & info contact: Sally Bull Sales & Marketing Manager | training@theproducthouse.biz

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spa

THE ACCESSIBLE

Paul Hawco, director at Talise Spa Operations Jumeirah Hotels and Resorts, and one of the 2014 World Spa & Wellness Awards judges, explains how to remain competitive by creating an affordable spa

Being affordable does not mean being “cheap” or becoming a discount spa, it can be achieved through from this position and understanding that we must perception, marketing, yield management and the operate and service our guests if we are to remain implementation of creative spa menus. Introducing affordable and accessible. While not a new different rates during periods of low demand and concept, many spa operators forgot creating added value within the spa experience this during years of significant growth and are two measures that can be implemented. strong business. With high demand, spas Spas have evolved, as have consumers’ became an offering within every hotel, expectations and needs. With the right “In the current as spa openings increased while competitive market, spas insight, a spa can remain attractive in affordability decreased. the current market, appeal to a need to become more Today, more and more spas are being broader range of people and retain affordable in order to built, while a growing number face loyalty. be successful, without declining visitor numbers, leading to a While spa is not a necessity, we can compromising standards diluted market. Only spas that focus on certainly work to make it a stronger or increasing costs” what is important and get it right will desire and a more frequent and involved continue to grow and see their brands part of people’s lives. An affordable spa thrive. In the current competitive environment, will appeal to a wider market, see increased spas need to become more accessible and affordable utilisation, provide opportunities for higher guest in order to remain viable and successful. However, they need spend and subsequently drive repeat business and foster to find ways of doing this without compromising standards loyalty. With so many spas, too many in fact, in this or increasing costs. Furthermore if costs are to be increased competitive market, great service and quality will be the justification and value should also ensue. defining factors in determining whether or not your spa veryone loves to spa but not everyone needs to spa. Or, simply put, to spa is not a necessity. It is

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ABOVE: The thalassotherapy pool at the Talise Ottoman Spa at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray in Dubai

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While special promotions or packages will appeal to guests, service and quality will in the end supersede these points and will be found the most attractive.

The need is also to create a spa that can – and does – go above and beyond and is flexible enough to work on a dayto-day and even a guest-to-guest basis. To achieve this, a spa’s leadership team should endeavour to work “on the floor” with the guests thus enabling them a greater insight into both the spa and the guest’s best interests. This in turn, will allow management to make case-by-case decisions, taking into consideration the theme or business need at that precise moment. For example, the day’s offer “Being accessible may be a book before 11am does not mean ‘earlybird’ complimentary becoming a discount 30-minute upgrade. A spa. It can be achieved hands-on manager will be through marketing, able to assess if that yield management and particular morning holds creative spa menus” very little business and therefore flex the offer and extend it to guests booking before 12pm.

Our industry is evolving and we need to evolve with it. Our current and future guests want more. Becoming more affordable and accessible without compromising on standards or increasing costs will leave guests feeling that the spa visit is a worthwhile investment of their time and money. Offering a spa experience in which great service and quality therapists, facilities and products lines are embedded will ensure continued success. PB www.jumeirah.com

In an environment where the spa experience is becoming, at times, harder to justify, a few adjustments can be made to create a more affordable spa: • Brand alignment. A commercially and operationally strong brand is key – building consumer confidence through brand recognition.

• Treatment promotions that add value, including retail discounts on products used by the therapist.

• A holistic treatment approach. Offering better value by providing more within a treatment, for example building a mini massage into a facial or offering a body treatment that also addresses face concerns.

• Decreasing treatment length, in some cases moving away from the traditional 60-minute duration.

• Building value directly into the treatment with the surprise inclusion of product gifts.

• Adding more results-driven treatments that appeal to specific guest needs and concerns, such as stress, aches and pains or wrinkles and fine lines.

BELOW: The spa entrance and hallway at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray

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