November 2015
For your beauty, hair and spa business
GCC
Facing up to it The rise of facial machines
7 Secrets of time management Be more productive
Refresh! Is it time to update your salon uniforms?
mindthebump
Our guide to enticing pregnant clients into your spa
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Published by and (C) 2015 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LLC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributing editor: Zoe Moleshead zoe@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Maria Dowling Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Marketing Manager: Nicki Wyatt nicki@professionalbeauty.ae
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General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production:
Scratch Advertising & Communication www.scratchcom.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.
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in this issue... Regulars 7
News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty
18 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 32 Ask the experts Chemical versus mineral sunscreens, facial massage and how to get more likes on your facebook page 59 Spotlight on spa speakers Paul Hawco on the GCC PSWC 2016 70 Treatment news We test out the “bronde� look, plus a facial machine treatment and relaxing nail experience
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Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
Features 74 Product news The coolest products for winter
38 Gloss and glamour We talk to the man behind the new Gloss salon and academy
80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training
53 The future is bright How the Global Mentorship Programme is raising the bar in the spa industry 57 Wear and tech How the latest wearable technology could benefit your business 51 Getting ahead Maria Dowling on standing out from the crowd 61 Shades of success We go behind the scenes at the award-winning Pastels salon
welcome
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C
lients seem to embrace technolog y now, a s we a re so governed by it w ith computers, socia l media, tablets a nd sma r t phone s. These are the words of Carol Joy Hatton, founder of the eponymous luxury product line, when discussing the overwhelming rise in popularity in machine facials for this month’s feature Facing Up to It ( page 23). Like many of the experts interviewed for the feature, Hatton predicts that machine -led facials will become the norm, rather than the exception, as time -pressed clients demand faster, more tangible results. Does your salon or spa offer machine treatments? It’s certainly food for thought. Here at Professional Beauty GCC , we are embracing technolog y with the launch of our new look website and blog this month. With improved features aimed at bringing you breaking industry news faster, as well as providing you with all the necessary tools to help grow your business, we’re sure you’ll find it a handy resource. Drop us a line and let us know. Elsewhere in this issue Paul Hawco, director of Talise Spa operations at Jumeirah Hotels and Resorts, outlines the importance of attending events such as the forthcoming GCC Professional Spa and Wellness Convention in February. Hawco extols the benefits of sharing ideas and learning from industry peers. Find our more on page 59. Continuing the theme of transparency and cohesion in our industry, we learn more about the Global Mentorship Programme from its co-chair Jean-Guy de Gabriac. Allowing budding spa managers to be matched with a spa directors for support and guidance, the scheme helped many professionals in 2015. Find out more about how to participate on page 53. Next month, look out for our bumper guide on how to make the most of seasonal retailing. Until then,
7 On the cover 23 Facing up to it The rise of facial machines 48 Seven secrets of time management Be more productive 41 Refresh! Is it time to update your salon uniforms? 65 Mind the bump How to entice pregnant clients
Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR
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48 32 Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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NEWS
All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa
Palatial Six Senses spa opens in Muscat
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he 3,000sq m spa has opened at the Al Bustan Palace, A RitzCarlton Hotel, in the Omani capital. Spanning three floors, the spa features 17 treatment rooms and two consultation rooms. Facilities at the spa include a thermal area with hammams, steam rooms, infrared saunas and ice showers, and a
juice bar. The spa also features studio space for yoga classes and the visiting practitioners that regularly hold classes and workshops as part of the Six Senses wellness initiatives, and other activities. There is also a ladies’ club on the premises featuring a gym, as well as its own fitness studio and thermal area – also complete with a hammam, steam
room, sauna, ice shower and relaxation area. Bernhard Bohnenberger, president of Six Senses, said: "Six Senses Spa at Al Bustan Palace will take the spa experience in the Middle East to a whole new level – including glorious architecture and results-driven wellness programmes. Six Senses is thrilled to be managing this exciting project."
Innovative harp treatment receives accolade
Professional Beauty announces beauty conference
Heart & Soul spa at The Al Barari has recently scooped Best Treatment Award for an exclusive spa experience which involves a live harpist. The Healing Harp massage involves guests enjoying massage while listening to the soothing sounds of a professional harpist. The treatment was born after spa founder and former spa director Maria Antonela Axinte encouraged the spa team to suggest ideas that could be incorporated into a innovative treatment, which was launched on Valentine's Day with great success. Maria Haggo, the current general manager of Heart & Soul spa told Professional Beauty, “We are greatly honoured to have received the award for Best Body Treatment at the Middle East Pool & Spa Awards. “This was to recognise our Healing Harp Therapy Massage. “The benefits of this unique spa treatment are vast and include increased relaxation, improvement in sleep, decreased stress, pain, and anxiety along with improvement in mood. This makes the combination of massage and harp sound therapy the
The much anticipated new Beauty Conference is set to make its debut at the Professional Beauty GCC exhibition in February, bringing a jam packed, two-day programme. Carefully created based on a reader survey sent to Professional Beauty readers and exhibition attendees, the programme will include business-focused, 45 minute sessions covering crucial topics to inspire practical solutions for success for your beauty business, whether you are from hair, nails or spa. Based on your requirements, topics will include Building Your Business With Social Media, Inspiring Your Team, KPIs & International benchmarks and Retail Secrets. Attendees will be able to learn from both international and local experts. There will also be a daily panel debate, over the course of the two-day conference, where visitors can join discussions on key issues facing the industry. Sessions can be booked individually from our website in advance (limited seats available) at AED60 per session and early birds will get 25 per cent discount using code SP2 when booking at www.professionalbeauty.ae*
perfect spa experience. We are thrilled to accept this prestigious award in recognition for the hard work and dedication shown by the entire team at Heart & Soul. It attests the spa’s high standards and unwavering commitment to creating beneficial, unique and memorable customer experiences.” Axinte said: “I am delighted that the treatment that I created has been recognised and commended by this award.”
L-R Aneesa Sharief, operations and training manager and Maria Haggo, general manager at the Heart & Soul spa at Al Barari
* (valid until 30 November 2015)
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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Product House partners with organic sun care line
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un care line Soleil Toujours has launched in the UAE in collaboration with marketing and distribution company The Product House. The brand says it presents a new paradigm in sun protection with a focus on anti-ageing and beautifying with sun protection as the foundation for skin’s optimal health and appearance. Soleil Toujours’s formulations provide effective and stable UVA and UVB protection using advanced mineralbased sunscreen. The collection is free of parabens, phthalates, sodium laurel sulfates, oxybenzone, retinyl palmitate, propylene glycol, petrolatum, synthetic fragrance and colour. Valerie McMurray Soleil Toujours founder told Professional Beauty, “I approached this brand with an understanding that a modern and elegant skincare line could really have it all.”
“I started by addressing the one skin stressor in our daily lives, 365 days a year, the sun. I wanted a non-chalky, mineral-based and luxuriously protective formulation that felt like an indulgence, not a chore. The point of Soleil Toujours is to both indulge and protect, making it perfect for the Middle East market.” “We have been looking for an effective, yet indulgent and elegant sun care range and feel Soleil Toujours will be perfect for our market,” commented Janette Gladstone-Watts, founder of The Product House. “Our instincts are now transforming into reality with the brand receiving incredible interest among our imitable property partners, far in excess of other sun care products.” “The Product House partners the leading brands across the Middle East and Soleil Toujours will soon fit this genre.”
Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi hosts regional launch of Espa
Susan Harmsworth founder and chief executive officer of Espa with Ritz-Carlton Espa staff
Susan Harmsworth founder and chief executive officer of Espa, recently unveiled the brand’s newest skincare products. Following the official launch, Espa at The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi has become the first spa in the region to offer ESPA’s innovative skincare products including the new Skin Radiance Intensive Serum, Naturally Radiant Tinted Moisturiser and
Optimal Skin ProCleanser. The spa has also expanded the line-up of its luxury facials by introducing the powerful Advanced Skin Radiance Facial. Espa at The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi offers 16 treatment rooms, a traditional Moroccan hammam and separate female and male outdoor relaxation areas complete with al fresco gardens, temperature-controlled plunge pools and manicured greenery.
Valerie McMurray
Vaniday new branding “spot on” A timeless trademark, beauty spots define some of the world’s most idolised women such as Marilyn Monroe and Cindy Crawford. Now Vaniday, the online salon and spa booking platform, recently launched in the UAE, has chosen to incorporate this small symbol of beauty into its latest re-brand, unveiled to coincide with the launch of the much-awaited Vaniday App. The App is compatible with both Apple and android devices and will allow the site’s users to access spa and salon offers, as well as book appointments on the go.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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Dubai’s “Queen of Colour” takes the global stage at Salon International
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aria Dowling, creative director of mariadowling salon, often dubbed Dubai’s “Queen of Colour” shared her experiences of running a salon overseas at Salon International in London, UK last month. Dowling was invited by salon management software provider, Salon Genius to take part in a forum alongside other speakers from top international salons. The questions and answer session was open to all guests at the event and
covered aspects of salon ownership including marketing to new customers, staff retention, the importance of awards and the key to a salon’s success. Dowling, who writes for Professional Beauty GCC, also answered questions on tips for setting up a salon overseas, marketing to customers in the Middle East and retaining customers in a transient, expatriate environment. Dowling was joined by UK based Stephen Nurse, operational manager at Daniel Galvin, Sean Hanna of Sean Hanna Salons and Rupert Berrow, finance director at Toni & Guy.
Carol Joy debuts in Burj Al Arab The Burj Al Arab retail store is the first to debut the Carol Joy London luxury skincare range in the Middle East. In September, Professional Beauty reported on the brand’s launch into our region. Combining the power of clinically proven, triple-action collagen and refined golden millet oil, Carol Joy London relies on these potent, active ingredients to achieve instant, transformational results using a unique combination of the latest Swiss engineering and advanced German manufacturing techniques. Nicole Fletcher, director, Carol Joy London added, “We are thrilled to see Carol Joy London in such a prestigious and relevant setting. This forms the beginning of a wider strategy to grow Carol Joy London’s presence in the Middle East with The Product House and we are looking forward to working with our partners to bring these transformational products to its customers.”
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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Pañpuri scoops four spa awards
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añpuri has been crowned a winner at The Thailand Spa and Wellbeing Awards 2015. The awards celebrate the year’s biggest visionaries in the industry and those who have transformed the spa landscape across Thailand and the world. The company won best Creative Spa Design with Pañpuri Organic Spa Bangkok, Natural Product with Pañpuri Organic Collection, Organic Product with Pañpuri Organic Spa
Collection and best Spa Educator, won by Natkritta Charoensrithongchai of Pañpuri Professional Regionally distributed by Puri Middle East in Dubai, the brand says it consistently aims to raise the bar in providing organic and natural luxury consumer products that adhere to the highest standards, certified organic by Nature, Bioagricert, and the Soil Association UK. Peter Dowling, managing director of Puri Middle East said, “These awards
Tanorganic arrives in UAE The world’s first and only eco-certified self-tanning brand Tan Organic, has arrived in the UAE. Ruth Milligan, whose passion for the brand led her to become the official UAE distributor, is aiming to seek partnership for the range in high end salons and spas. The brand, which has a large following in the UK and Ireland, has won several awards and accolades for its unique formula and green principles. As well as the professional spray tan treatment, there range offers a plethora of retail products from self-tan oils and lotions to bronzer. The tan solution has an 84 per cent aloe vera base and is suitable for clients with sensitive skin, and those who are pregnant. Salons or spas interested in stocking the brand should email tanorganicuae@gmail.com
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
are an industry recognition by our professional peers which affirms our reputation of providing a high level of quality in everything we do, from the design of our spas, to our new products, to our educational programmes. “We constantly think about how we can revolutionise the spa and beauty industry and be totally unique, completely different, and set ourselves apart. These awards are testament to our commitment to our passion for the brand and the business.”
Pastels on the “up”
Renowned hair stylist and founder of Fabulous Hair Up, Paula Hibbard, recently visited Pastels Salon to give a masterclass on how to create elegant and on-trend up-styles. With more than 20 years’ experience in hair styling, Paula has worked alongside industry greats such as Benny Tognini, Shane Henning, Sharon Blaine and Patrick Cameron, as well as sharing her expertise on film shoots and television. The styles she showcased were created with special occasions such as weddings and red carpet events in mind. Post-event, Pastel's stylists were eager to try out their newlyacquired mastery.
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international news
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15 Industry news from around the globe
Aromatherapy Associates appoints new vice president for Asia
A
romatherapy Associates has announced the appointment of Georgiann Reigle as vice president, Asia, for the brand. Reigle, who joined Aromatherapy Associates on November 1, was previously managing director, Asia for hair brand Ghd. Chief executive Muriel Zingraff-Shariff: said: “We are excited to be expanding our luxury spa and retail business globally and Asia is a key growth region, so I’m delighted to welcome Georgiann to the team. Her wealth of experience in this market will be an asset to the company.” Reigle’s career also spans roles as a consultant, and later manager at global management consultancy Bain & Company, where she worked in the fields of consumer products, retail, technology and private equity.
Aromatherapy Associates chairman and co-founder Geraldine Howard said: “Georgiann’s wide knowledge of the Asian beauty market, combined with her impressive business experience, makes her an excellent addition to the Aromatherapy Associates team.” Reigle’s appointment is the latest in a range of new recruitments, and change of roles within Aromatherapy Associates over the last few months. Muriel Zingraff-Shariff joined the company as chief executive in January this year, with Leslie Davey coming onboard as global marketing director at the same time. In September, Helen Norman came onboard as senior business development manager for Asia, while Laura Kelly was the same month promoted to spa business development manager for EMEA.
Adlon Spa by Resense partners with La Prairie The spa at the Hotel Adlon Kempinski in Berlin has entered into a new partnership with skincare brand La Prairie. Adlon Spa by Resense is now offering products and treatments by the Swiss brand. The five La Prairie treatments added to the menu at the spa, managed by Swedish spa consultancy and management company Resense, all focus on anti-ageing, an area of expertise for La Prairie. Two of the treatments draw on La Prairie’s Skin Caviar collection. Aiming to firm and lift, the Ultimate Caviar Lift Facial incorporates the use of caviar pearls, while the White Caviar Illuminating Facial, which uses gold caviar extract, is designed to brighten the skin and combat pigmentation problems and discolouration. The Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Facial has been developed to combat the very first signs of ageing and includes a face and eye massage with rose quartz crystals, to boost and hydrate the skin. Meanwhile, the Cellular Swiss Anti-Ageing Facial is designed to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, for clearer and more youthful skin.
The 900sq m Adlon Spa by Resense features 12 treatment rooms and three treatment suites. Facilities at the spa include a swimming pool with a pool bar serving healthy drinks, a whirlpool, a relaxation area and a fitness centre.
Georgiann Reigle
More opportunities and rising salaries increase optimism in UK beauty industry A survey of those working in the UK beauty industry has found that 42 per cent are somewhat satisfied with their salary and 91 per cent are confident in their ability to land other jobs. A specialised global recruiting firm called 24 Seven partnered with industry professionals organisation Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) to produce the report into the current job market in the beauty industry. Overall, it found increased optimism in terms of pay rises and opportunities. Even in instances where those asked were unhappy with their salary, 50 per cent said they planned to leave their current position in the next six months to find new work, with a massive 91 per cent saying they were confident in their ability to do so, suggesting that varied opportunities are rife. Furthermore, 87 per cent actually said that they had been approached about a new opportunity in the past 12 months. That said, one in four employees questioned admitted that they were dissatisfied with how much money they earned in their position. Considering how healthy the job market in the industry appears to be, it is likely employees in this position will leave their jobs to find higher paid positions, suggests the report. The second most common reason beauty industry employees seek out new jobs is the desire to grow and improve their skill set, according to the survey.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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18 The month in numbers
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
69 Insider beauty, hair and nails
HOW DID THE TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2015 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2014?
61 39 0 % SAME
Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
% BETTER
OCTOBER
% WORSE
Our research suggests that the last month was overall a more positive one for the salon sector. Year-on-year figures indicated an improvement in business from 2014, while average treatment room occupancy and client rebooking figures were also up from September, hopefully indicating a trend that will continue in the build up to the festive period. Speaking of the festive period, the majority of you are planning to roll out retail gifts for your clients for the season. Outside of gifts, clients also showed a keen interest in serums, with these products proving the most popular sellers over the summer months.
%
PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
58
%
On the spot WHICH PRODUCT DID YOU RETAIL THE MOST OF THIS SUMMER? 1. Serum 2. Sun protection 3. Moisturiser 4. Cleanser
56
%
OFFER TREATMENT REVIEWS TO BLOGGERS
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
WHICH INDUSTRY FIGURE WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO MEET? 1. Jane Wurwand (Dermalogica) 2. Gerald Howard (Aromatherapy Associates) 3. Jeff Pink (Orly) 4. George Schaeffer (Aloxxi)
82
%
WILL OFFER FESTIVE RETAIL GIFTS IN DECEMBER
insider
professionalbeauty.ae
20 The month in numbers
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
68 Insider Spa Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2015 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2014?
58 21 21
% BETTER
% SAME
% WORSE
OCTOBER September proved a particularly buoyant month for spas, and while October wasn’t quite as positive, numbers were on the whole still healthy. The average treatment room occupancy in particular demonstrated a healthy return. Furthermore, year-on-year growth, while not a strong as September, was no worse than the figures revealed that month either. In other areas of the business the rise of social media is continuing to make inroads into the sector, with many of you indicating that you encourage bloggers to review treatments. In retail, festive gifts are on the agenda for many of you, while moisturising products proved the most popular client purchases during the summer.
PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
46
%
On the spot WHICH PRODUCT DID YOU RETAIL THE MOST OF THIS SUMMER? 1. Moisturiser 2. Sun protection 3. Serum 4. Cleanser
63
%
OFFER TREATMENT REVIEWS TO BLOGGERS
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
WHICH INDUSTRY FIGURE WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO MEET? 1. Gerald Howard (Aromatherapy Associates) 2. Jane Wurwand (Dermalogica) 3. George Schaeffer (Aloxxi) 4. Jeff Pink (Orly)
84
%
WILL OFFER FESTIVE RETAIL GIFTS IN DECEMBER
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Facing up to it
Zoe Moleshead discusses the growing demand for machine facials
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n a sector that is driven by customer engagement and personalisation, technology is almost the exact opposite – cold, mechanical and frequently preprogrammed. Yet machines – and in particular machines for facial treatments – are becoming a fundamental part of salon or spa treatment offerings. And it’s not just the therapists that have been embracing the rise of machines in the sector; clients are also increasingly open to and accepting of technologydriven treatments. Carol Joy Hatton, founder of luxury skin and hair care line Carol Joy, suggests one reason for this growing trend: “Clients seem to embrace technology now as we are so governed by it with computers, social media, tablets and smart phones. It makes sense that machines with treatments are also becoming the norm.” Lindsay Madden-Nadeau, director, spa integration and operations, FRHI Hotels and Resorts, says that the unstoppable advancements being made through technology, combined with people’s desire for instantaneous results, are further fuelling the rise of machine-based treatments in the beauty industry. “I think the way of the future is forcing both clients and product houses to evaluate having these machines connected to their products. Everyone is looking for faster results in a one-stop shop type of establishment. People don’t have time to return several times a month for a treatment they could get done once at a clinic using a stronger technology at a higher price. Convenience is key for clients these days,” she explains.
Rise of the machines
Further enhancing the attraction of machine facials for clients is the fact that they can offer faster, more effective results in a less invasive and costly fashion. “Invasive aesthetic treatments are exactly that, invasive, not to mention very costly for the average consumer. By introducing facial machine treatments, brands can easily find the middle mark to satisfy consumers by giving them what they want – fast results
at a reasonable price,” says Janine Kay, spa manager at Kempinski Hotel Ajman. Increasing customer acceptance and demand for such treatments has in turn encouraged more beauty brands to invest in developing their own machines. “More and more facial machines are being introduced on the market as there is a greater understanding of the efficacy of non-invasive solutions to skincare needs. There is also less apprehension towards facial
machines, long believed to be painful,” concurs Laura Kelly, spa business development manager EMEA, Aromatherapy Associates. With an increasing arsenal of machines being rolled out across the beauty sector, the range of machinebased facial treatments includes ultrasonic peeling, microcurrent, microdermabrasion, galvanic, oxygen infusion and light therapy – each of which can target specific skincare conditions. Anti-ageing, sagging skin, hyperpigmentation and acne are cited by the Madden-Nadeau and Kay as the primary reasons that clients seek machine-based therapies. But as with any beauty treatment, it isn’t a case of one size – or machine – fits all. “There are many different facial machines available and it is essential to choose the correct ones for your business and your customers' needs,” advises Beverly Gautschi, sales manager, skincare, Beauty Leaders LLC.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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Anti-ageing, sagging skin, hyperpigmentation and acne are cited by the Madden-Nadeau and Kay as the primary reasons that clients seek machine-based therapies. But as with any beauty treatment, it isn’t a case of one size – or machine – fits all. “There are many different facial machines available and it is essential to choose the correct ones for your business and your customers' needs,” advises Beverly Gautschi, sales manager, skincare, Beauty Leaders LLC.
Tradition vs technology
With industry professionals espousing the cost and time savings of machine facials, and most crucially the efficacy and immediacy of these treatments, it would be easy to believe that traditional therapies would gradually be phased out in favour of them. However, beauty professionals argue that this is far from true. “[Machines] can be more effective for treating acne or pigmentation, or to boost collagen. However, they can’t relieve stress, lower blood pressure, boost endorphins or boost immunity – only hands-on massage can do this,” says Hatton. This is a notion supported by Kay: “Machine treatments and traditional treatments can be very powerful when done together and they do complement each other as they work on completely different levels of the skin and body. Where machines work on a deeper level, a traditional facial will work on a superficial level and it’s great to alternate between the two,” she says. Once again, the decision between a traditional and a
machine treatment depends on the specific requirements of the client. Hatton says LED therapies are far more effective in treating bacteria than traditional treatments and those looking for anti-ageing benefits would be advised to opt for machine treatments too. Marimel Sanchez-Rodrigues, training manager, LPG Bella Concept LLC, says that its new LPG Gold Mobilift M6 Machine is superior to traditional massage. “You will see a healthy glowing complexion and a natural lifting effect. With each session, more improvements will be noticeable including wrinkles filled in and contours redefined,” she adds. Investing in a machine or multiple machines may seem like a big decision, but Sanchez-Rodrigues’ latter point highlights another key selling point of machines – their efficacy and resultsdriven nature draws clients back for more. Meara Dougherty, business development manager at The Product House, which distributes QMS, says, “QMS Medicosmetic treatments sell themselves. Once a client has experienced the level of results they are able to obtain they are hooked. Courses of treatments are a popular upsell in most spas.”
The power of two
Traditional facials may be seen as complementary to machine treatments, but a powerful skincare range is regarded as the ultimate companion for machine facials. Professionals across the board support the importance of combining these two to create the most powerful and effective treatment possible. “I believe the key to success with any new high tech machine is to partner the treatment with an equally resultsdriven skincare or bodycare range that has proven clinical results and includes ingredients like peptides, collagen, anti-oxidants, hyaluronic acid and AHAs. By doing this, the effects will be stronger and longer lasting for your clients,” says Jacqui McCumiskey, managing director of ENER Beauty Dubai.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
machine facials
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Joan Nguyo, account manager, Spa Resources International which distributes Elemis in the region, agrees with this idea, further highlighting how machines and skincare products can be used together to enhance the results of a treatment. “Purely machine-based facials stimulate unresponsive cells and help re-boot cellular performance by re-establishing effective cell
confidence in their clients both about their own skills and the treatment itself. “Therapists performing machine-based treatments must have an extensive knowledge of the skin and facial electrics to ensure they are confident and competent in their delivery. They should be proficient when explaining/ educating the client on how the various technologies work to benefit the skin,” says Nguyo, adding: “Therapists should also highlight the contraindications that may prevent the treatment from being carried out or require it to be adapted.”
“PEOPLE DON’T HAVE TIME TO RETURN SEVERAL TIMES A MONTH FOR A TREATMENT THEY COULD GET DONE ONCE AT A CLINIC USING A STRONGER TECHNOLOGY AT A HIGHER PRICE”
communication to kick start the skin’s ability to repair and rejuvenate. A machine used in conjunction with a powerful skincare range offers the next level of treatment by prolonging and maximising the effects and benefits of the facial. Once the cellular performance has been improved, our skin cells receive the active ingredients more effectively,” she explains. Further expanding the concept of how machines can in effect lay the foundation for introducing a powerful skincare range, Mania El Baba, managing director, Specialized Beauty, explains how the two complement one another in microdermabrasion. “Microdermabrasion is an excellent way to ensure the maximum absorption of active ingredients into the skin. Microdermabrasion removes the dead skin cells and opens up the pores, perfectly preparing the skin’s surface for penetration of active ingredients to the skin. Using active ingredients, microdermabrasion comfortably exfoliates the epidermis and polishes the skin. It gives more desirable and lasting results compared to a purely machine-based facial.”
Client comfort
Despite the growing demand and acceptance of machine facials, many clients still approach them with caution; concerned that while they may not be invasive, there could still be an element of pain or discomfort involved. This, of course, is a prime example of where the human touch once again takes precedence. Therapists must take the lead to address these concerns and instil
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
McCumiskey says that the language and terminology a therapist uses prior to and during the treatment can also be key to relaxing a client and helping them to overcome any concerns they may have: “Using the right terminology during consultations will most definitely reassure uncertainty in a timid, nervous or first time user of machines and clinical strength skincare.” She suggests substituting phrases such as “Your skin will feel hot” for “Your skin may feel warm” or “You will feel burning” for “You should expect to feel a sensation”. These changes of syntax may seem minor, but they create a sense of expectation and understanding for the client. It's clear that the human touch and the role of therapists – be it in understanding and diagnosing a client’s skincare requirements or customising their treatment and guiding them through it – will remain fundamental to any treatment process. However, the efficacy and longevity that can be achieved through the use of machines, not to mention continual technological advancements, will see machine therapies becoming a mainstay of every treatment menu over the coming years. So if you haven’t already investigated in machines, now might be the time.
Contacts: Aromatherapy Associates: call The Product House +971 4 379 19 66 Beauty Leaders LLC: +971 2 676 46 00 Carol Joy: call The Product House +971 4 379 19 66 ENER Beauty Dubai: +971 4 336 34 33 LPG: +971 4 380 41 23 QMS: call The Product House +971 4 379 19 66 Spa Resources International/Elemis: +971 4 324 54 14 Specialized Beauty: +971 2 627 59 26
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Ask the Experts
Our beauty experts answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Can you explain what defines chemical and mineral sunscreens and what the differences are between the two?
S
unscreens are categorised into two groups: mineral and chemical. Mineral sunscreens, also referred to as physical sunscreens, are made from two types of natural minerals from the earth, zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. They work by sitting on top of the skin, do not penetrate healthy skin, and deflect UV rays, similar to how a mirror reflects light. On the contrary, chemical sunscreen actives are made in a laboratory. They penetrate the skin and then work by absorbing and/or scattering UV rays. Some of the more common chemical sunscreen actives are Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Octisalate, Homosalate and Helioplex to name a few. By way of a little background on how UV rays work, the sun's radiation comes in three varieties: UVB rays, primarily responsible for causing sunburn, UVA rays, which cause premature ageing of the skin and UVC rays, the most harmful of the three but these rays do not penetrate the ozone layer. At this point, we are only concerned with UVA and UVB rays. Both of these rays can contribute to the development of skin disease such as skin cancer and they are also responsible for approximately 80 per cent of premature ageing of the skin. When you see the term broadspectrum protection, this indicates protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Choosing the right sunscreen is vital and is truly the key to maintaining healthy skin, the largest organ in our body, as well as preserving the skin’s youth and vitality. Below are some of the other key differences between mineral and chemical sunscreens that should help in one’s choice of sun care:
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
Mineral Sunscreens
.Once applied, they begin working immediately. .They do not decompose through sun exposure, so they theoretically have a longer life on your skin, making them more stable than their chemical counterparts. Traditionally, mineral sunscreens have been associated with a white hue and thick consistency. However, modern technology has improved the texture and finish, creating more pleasant and efficient applications. If prone to hyperpigmentation, mineral sunscreens are the best choice as they act as a barrier between UV rays and the skin, reflecting UV rays. Mineral sunscreens do not damage coral reefs.
. . .
Chemical sunscreens
.The most common and popular choice because of the ease of application and clear texture. They require about 20 minutes to fully sink into the skin. Some chemical actives break down when exposed to sunlight and must be stabilised with other sunscreen actives. In large quantities, these chemicals enter the bloodstream and can be found in the blood, urine, and breast milk. The US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has detected Oxybenzone in more than 96 per cent of the American population, based on a sampling of more than 2,500 children and adults (Calafat 2008). A 2010 study by the University of Zurich found at least one sunscreen chemical in 85 per cent of breast milk samples. (Schlumpf 2008, Schlumpf 2010) One of the most common chemical sunscreens is Oxybenzone (or benzophenone3 ). It acts as synthetic oestrogen and can cause serious hormonal reactions.
. . .
.
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business tips
33 The American Contact Dermatitis Society named Oxybenzone “Allergen of the Year 2014.” They can produce free radicals, which cause premature ageing and DNA mutations that can potentially lead to cancer. They can trigger pigmentation and cause hyperpigmentation as chemical actives penetrate the skin and allow UV rays to contact the skin, exacerbating pigmentation. They can cause viruses in coral reefs, threatening up to 10 per cent of the world’s coral communities. Environmental Health Perspectives. (Environmental
. . .
Health Perspectives. http://news.nationalgeographic.com/ news/2008/01/080129sunscreencoral.html) At Soleil Toujours, our goal is to revolutionise the way we think about sunscreen – infusing modern glamour into exceptional, high quality products that validate a healthy, discerning lifestyle. Our focus is to use the most natural and organic ingredients where possible and to always avoid potentially harmful and toxic chemicals. Because mineral sunscreens provide the highest safety profile and are the most effective and stable form of sunscreen, we opt for mineral based sunscreen actives in our products.
Valerie McMurray is the founder and CEO of Soleil Toujours, a premium brand of sun and skincare launched in May 2014. Her journey into the world of luxury sun and skincare started while expecting her third baby. During which Valerie found that high-quality, natural-based sunscreens and moisturisers were largely unavailable. A discerning entrepreneur, she found that a relevant and premium line of naturally based and organic sun and skincare was the perfect solution to meet an unfilled demand that ultimately brought Soleil Toujours to life.
Is facial massage performed purely for the client’s relaxation or can it tackle skincare concerns such as wrinkles and sagging?
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n our modern world, many people are turning to more invasive cosmetic procedures in a bid to look young. Some forget about the useful effects of facial massages and are unaware that correct facial massage techniques can have dramatic effects. At Nysa Spa, we focus on organic and natural ingredients as well as original treatment techniques. Massage is very important and you can offer different types of massages in facials, to obtain different results. For instance, we offer facials that include a classical facial massage, which is suitable for dry skin or aged skin types with many wrinkles, and which helps to improve blood circulation and lymph drainage. It helps to drain facial veins and improve skin colour. We also have a lift facial massage, this massage is a combination of pressure points massage (shiatsu) and a strong lift movements. It helps to wake up facial muscles, improve blood circulation and gives immediate results. We also have a Hungarian lifting massage, which lasts 20-30 minutes, and is included in the two main facial treatments Blue Diamond and Gold Renewal by Omorovicza cosmetics. The technique of Hungarian massage is unusual and combines a large amount of different movements.
The duration of facial massages can be different, ranging from 15-30 minutes, but for the best results we would recommend one massage per week over a course.
Katerina Lebedyk is a spa therapist at Nysa Spa, Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights. She graduated from the National Medical University in Kiev, Ukraine, with a specialisation in Dermatology. She has over 10 years experience as cosmetologist in beauty salons in Kiev and five years as spa therapist in the Hyatt Regency Kiev.
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How can I get more views and likes on my salon’s Facebook posts?
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he days of mass organic reach using social channels are gone. Facebook has made some significant changes, which ultimately mean that to reach consumers on a mass scale, businesses now have to pay. Salon owners frequently ask me, “What am I doing wrong? Why does nobody see, like or share my posts anymore? In an attempt to improve user experience Facebook is also reducing the amount of promotional content users see on their newsfeeds. So if you are using phrases such as “call us today” or “book now” in your posts, you’ll find they won’t get seen by your audience. There are three simple steps you can take to help improve your reach on Facebook:
Remember why people use social media:
It’s about building and maintaining relationships, not selling. There is still room for a little self-promotion, but a good rule to follow is for every promotional post, you
should share four pieces of new, relevant content. Aim to be insightful and not pushy. People browse social media not because they are looking to find a discount off their next manicure, but because they want to feel connected to their friends and family.
Be consistent:
Don’t fall into the habit of only posting on social media when the appointment book is looking empty. Use a scheduling tool such as Hootsuite to share content regularly and keep your audience interested. If your audience interacts with a post, your future posts will perform better. Use video: Video will account for 80 per cent of consumer traffic by 2019 according to tech company Cisco. You’ll get a greater organic reach by sharing video content due to the way Facebook algorithms are set. Don’t give up on photos or plain text posts, just make sure they are compelling and will resonate with your audience.
Edith Bryan is an account executive for marketing communications agency Not Just PR. She has a degree in business and marketing and over 13 years’ experience working in the beauty industry.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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Interview
On the eve of the grand opening, we talk to Mark Butcher of Gloss, and learn why the salon and academy are set to up the ante
Tell us about your history in the hair industry?
I was originally an investor in MyHairDressers.com and at the same time started working with salon brands in the UK, but I found it frustrating working with individuals who were more interested in their own standing in the industry, rather than building good companies. Consequently, I took over as MD of MyHairDresser.com in 2010 and used the Middle East as a testing ground for some new ideas such as international expansion and developing solid training. It was then that I started working with Deborah Whitehead to develop Salon Educators, which was originally an Academy, and introduced the See-DoStop-Check training method, with which we had tremendous success. Five years down the line, we have now rebranded as Gloss and introduced a salon into the business that’s dedicated to raising the standards of hairdressing in the region. We will be available to franchise this model from early next year.
What will be the main point of differentiation for the Gloss salon?
We offer unparalleled quality, style and luxury to our clients, with the utmost cultural sympathy no matter what their background or heritage. In terms of services, the priority will be the customer experience. Our backwashes will use distilled water to help eliminate frizz, we will host regular events with international session stylists and renowned hairdressers to offer exclusive appointments and trend advice; plus all our stylists will receive on-going training in the latest cutting and colouring techniques, trends and styling, as well as customer service.
We’re excited about the launch of the salon next month. Can you give us a sneak preview of what’s in store for Dubai residents?
We are dedicated to bringing a premium salon experience to our clientele that matches the services of London and European salons. For too long many salons in the region have had a lackadaisical approach to their customers and staff training. By educating our staff to European standards we will give them skills that will empower them, and make their clients happy. Our academy allows us to employ the best students, and feeds back into the hair industry across the region, to raise standards in all salons.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
Why did you select Goldwell for the salon?
Goldwell’s emphasis is on professional products, aimed at professional hair services. As a salon-only brand, it gives hairdressers the tools to do their jobs properly.
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Goldwell
Where have you been recruiting staff for Gloss? We have recruited from within Salon Educators, picking the top students and offering good pay, conditions and on-going training. We have also recruited from the local industry. There’s a lot of talented staff in the top salons in Dubai that are under-appreciated and unsupported by their managers. Once open we will continue to recruit from within our own academy. Like any business we always keen to hear from talented and motivated individuals of any nationality who want to work with us.
Please tell us more about the Gloss academy? Gloss Academy is a City & Guilds approved training centre, so offers UK standard training. We’ve developed a unique training model using MHDAcademy.com, an online training support tool I developed with my UK company, MHD Productions. Our training methods have led to standardised training and a 100 per cent pass rate. Our success in Dubai, has now led to me working even more closely with City & Guilds and MHD Academy is now used in every City & Guilds college in the UK. This
is something we’re extremely proud of at Gloss and testament to the excellent work put in by Deborah Whitehead and her team in Dubai. We are very proud to announce that in December we will be joining the UK Government on a trade mission to Qatar, Oman, Bahrain and Saudi to showcase our achievements and open up negotiations with various government bodies, such as TVTC, to assist with standardisation of hairdressing training and qualifications in these countries.
Why do we need to improve the standards of training in the UAE and what can Gloss Academy offer that other trainers is the region cannot? Look at how the UAE has grown in the last few years. It has the best hotels, shops and leisure facilities in the world, but it’s let down by aspects of the service industries that doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of European standards. Only by education and respecting the talents of the hairdressers can we begin to raise the standards and give the people of the UAE the hairdressing services they deserve. Many academies not just in the UAE, but around the Middle East, do the bare minimum to pass their students. We believe that good, ongoing training motivates the staff and gives them pride in their work, which is reflected in the level of service they then provide their clients.
Goldwell
Gloss Academy and Gloss Salon are set to open in Dubai later this month. For more information call: + 44 (0) 113 269 8100. Goldwell is distributed in this region by Madi International.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
uniforms, towels and robes
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Hit refresh
It’s time for an update. Refreshing your uniforms, towels and robes will help inject a boost into your business; choose from sleek shapes, elegant white and bright bursts of colour
Sleek styles Grahame Gardner
This black jacket from the Grahame Gardner’s Noel Asmar collection has a contrasting faux leather detail on the lapel for a sleek look. A subtly structured effect is created with princess and back seams, and the discreet front pockets keep it stylish yet practical.
La Beeby A chic, fitted black dress is a classic choice for slick city-centre salons and looks great paired with heels. This one from La Beeby has a peplum shape with back zip fastening and is made from soft twill fabric. It is also available in plum and grey.
Buttercup
Simon Jersey
Buttercups’ Sweetheart diamante button-front tunic is in a linen-look fabric and sophisticated slate grey shade, which would look great with brightly coloured or white trousers. The diamante buttons add a touch of sparkle.
Simon Jersey’s slim-leg trousers would be a perfect match for a sleek, tailored tunic or top and would look great paired with pointed black flats. The classic cigarette shape and hemmed length accentuates height while the drop waist is flattering and comfortable.
Brights Florence Roby
Florence Roby recently added this teal option to its Lucca Tunic, a V-neck with contrast piping above the waist, side slits and a back zip. It has a flattering fit and would work equally well with black or matching trousers. Other colourways include raspberry.
Simon Jersey A vibrant raspberry shade is a great pick for summer, and Simon Jersey’s square-neckline tunic is smart and versatile. It has self-contrast panels to the centre, cuffs and lower edge for a textured finish and dual side pockets concealed in the seams for a stylish look.
Salonwear Also opting for a flattering peplum shape, Salonwear Direct’s Gem dress has a round collar and back zip with an asymmetric peplum layered pencil skirt and skirt vent for ease of movement. The non-iron fabric makes it easy to care for and the bright fuchsia shade is a fun choice.
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uniforms, towels and robes
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FOR THE GUYS Make sure your male stafff aren’t left behind in the style stakes
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t’s important to consider how male uniform needs differ to those of female employees, while still ensuring a cohesive look across the entire staff. Many uniform suppliers are starting to offer a wider range of options for men with style elements and colours that can be easily matched to female employees’ uniforms, so that male uniforms don’t look like an afterthought. Grace Crowley, director of Buttercups, suggests the easiest way to create uniformity is to choose all workwear in the same colour and material, even though styles will be different. There is of course the option to do the reverse and choose matching styles in different but complimentary colours. “Spas are now ordering more male spa uniforms as men are moving into delivering massage and beauty treatments as well as receiving them. Our cosmetics clients too are seeing a rise in the number of men wanting to be part of the teams that sell beauty products – both to girls and to guys,” says Dorota Ziolkowska, account manager at Fashionizer.
Fashionizer The linen-rich fabric of this loose yet stylish tunic and trousers from Fashionizer ensures a cool uniform for a therapist working in a spa’s thermal area or heated treatment rooms. These trousers have an elasticated back and drawstring for a comfortable and adjustable fit.
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La Beeby This polo shirt style by La Beeby could be a preferred option for male staff. The colour and rolled-up sleeves give a relaxed look, and it is available in five easily coordinated colours including grey and navy.
Florence Roby Ideal for a salon or spa with Asian influences, this tunic from Florence Roby is a great example of how therapists’ uniforms can reflect an overarching theme and join up with other areas of the business; accents like these embroidered buttons can be carried across to female uniforms for cohesion.
She
believes
the
main
element
in
house and reception as well as therapists, in one or two co-ordinating pieces rather than completely matching uniforms. Janet Roby, sales director at Florence Roby, explains how this could work: “Front of house and reception wear dresses and jackets that co-ordinate with male and female therapist uniforms, creating a very professional and united workforce.” PB
ensuring
cohesiveness is deciding on a look at the outset that will suit both men and women: “We always create collections that enable a spa to choose designs for men and women that have the same style,” says Ziolkowska. “A good example of this is one of our latest collections that we created in response to client requests for a relaxed, flexible look. We have the Neo tunic for men [pictured] and the Margo tunic for women, both in our new linen-rich fabric and both with a chilled-out design.” As it can be so tricky to find male and female uniforms that coordinate, getting the same style for all is unlikely to work. Some lines, such as the Noel Asmar range have several male styles that fit well with the classically tailored garments. Remember that some suppliers also offer a bespoke service whereby a business’s logo or name badge can be used to personalise uniforms. Another option, which would work well for a large spa, is to dress the entire staff, including front of
Salonwear Reflecting a key colour from the female uniform in an accent on your male uniform is a great way to keep cohesion among staff. This tunic from Salonwear Direct has a contrasting trim on the pockets and collar, which can be ordered in any colour through the company’s bespoke service.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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management advice
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48 We’re all busier than ever before, but learn to manage your time effectively and you’ll be more productive writes Valerie Delforge
7
secrets of
time management
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here is absolutely no magic to time management. Discipline and consistency have to become your best friend. It is important to visualise what you want to do with the extra time that you will gain, it motivates you to stop procrastinating. You also need to accept that you will never finish your “to do” list as you will add to it as often as you tick things off. Once you have come to terms with that, you will be able to create a process that will generate efficiency within your daily routine.
you cannot do everything in one day. The more pressure you put on yourself the less efficient you become.
5. Do weekly updates Every Monday, update your “to do” list. Assess what you want to do for the week per day. For example, “on Tuesday I am dealing with the staff rota, on Wednesday I will create the marketing plan, Thursday is a day off”.
6. Brain dump
A simple statement but if you don’t make it a priority to get yourself better organised, it will just not happen.
Carry a little book with you at all times and write down everything you think of. This way you’re freeing your brain from stressing about all the things you want to do. When you do your weekly update, take from this list what is most important. You will end up being very creative.
2. Create one “to do” list
7. Manage time killers
Draw up one list with a column for your workload and another for personal matters. It is important to put both your personal and business lists together. That way you are focussing on both and achieve a work/life balance. Stop starting lists all over the place – one on your phone, one in a notepad, one on your computer – group everything together so you can see the big picture.
Time killers come in various forms; for example, the customer who wants to chat for ages, the therapist who wants to tell you about her night out. It is down to you to manage them. It’s crucial that you focus on one task at a time: turn off your phone and email notifications and dedicate your full attention to the task you choose. Give yourself one to two hours and just do just that. You will be very efficient. As for that chatty therapist, manage her expectations: “I have 5 minutes for you”. Spend more time with her later, when you can, to keep her happy, but you decide when that is because you are in charge of your time. Time management is at the centre of everything you do and ultimately gives you freedom. Whether you are an early riser or not, it’s the process that matters. PB
1. Make time management a priority
3. Draw a timeline Get a yearly calendar and put down set dates, such as monthly team meetings. Then you can work out when you need to prepare, when you can fit in your holidays and so on.
4. Prioritise your priorities This is the most difficult rule to follow because when you are busy everything is a priority. But if you write down your tasks and look at the calendar, you will know where to start. Be realistic;
Valerie Delforge is a spa and salon business consultant. She has worked in the beauty industry for over 25 years, in roles including head of spa operation for Steiner and general manager of Bliss.
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Ahead Of The Game
Always update your knowledge, skillset and business strategy to remain one step ahead, says Maria Dowling
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have an inherent hatred of standing still. Anyone who knows me will tell you that I’m an active person, always on the move. Fortunately this personality trait is reflected in my business philosophy too. I believe strongly that by constantly working on each area of your business, you stay ahead. I prefer to lead, not to follow, and always maintaining this philosophy has helped me stay one
1
Get out!
2
Take in a show
No I don’t mean leave the UAE. It’s a great country with great opportunities but as a creative and a businessperson it’s essential that whatever country we live in, we get out of our “bubble” and experience other parts of the world. It’s important to remember that what we see in the UAE are very different to what’s going on in London, Paris or New York, which is why you should try to visit the big cities and take inspiration from trends and street style. The trends we see here have usually been inspired by the street style of one of the major cities the previous year, so remain one step ahead of the trends and catch these influences early on.
It’s a good idea to attend industry shows around the world, or if you’re on a budget, choose one overseas trade event a year. I did just that last month, when I attended Salon International in London. I was honoured to be a guest speaker at the show but I also went to see what's happening in the industry. Trade shows are a great way to expand your creativity and mix with other creative, inspirational and motivated people. Talks and demos from industry experts are always a surefire way to ignite your creativity.
3
Don’t be afraid of the new, but remain consistent
Speaking to lots of professionals out there, many say that we are so lucky our clients in the region are open to trying new things. Whether it’s a change in hairstyle or a newly launched beauty procedure, we crave originality, and this is apparent when we see how many new beauty establishments are opening in Dubai every week! Always be open to trying new products, new brands and new treatments but don’t change too much, as customers still like to have an element of consistency.
step ahead of the competition in all aspects of my business. For this column, I started thinking of what snippets of advice I would give to a start-up salon or spa, which wanted to gain that competitive edge, to remain current and to differentiate themselves from the many mediocre businesses out there. So here are just a few words of (worldly!) advice on leading the way:
4
Pick Your platform
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The importance of take-home
In this day and age, staying ahead in your communications is just as important as your day to day business. Social media is essential for any business but not all platforms give you the same results so by knowing what to focus on for each channel, you can really get the most out of your social media. Facebook – it’s all about building a community. It isn’t a quick hit and you can post longer messages. Instagram – it’s all about the image: behind the scenes, before and after shots… These images capture the attention of the audience far faster than Facebook. Twitter – it’s a real-time information sharing platform that is good for businesses as well as people. Pinterest – you can bring out your personality a lot more visually, your influences, inspirations and the essence of what you do. With social media, I find that posts have to be more visual than text based. I do a lot of before and after transformation images which work really well. For social media, a lot of it is trial and error. Monitor what you are doing, and if it isn’t working, change it. Simple.
Johnny McCormack of Visible Changes salon in the US was quoted as saying “If we go under 20 per cent in retail sales, we’re out of business because we lose money on service." While each salon and spa has their own percentage of retail products vs treatments, retail sales are undeniably essential to the profitability of any beauty outlet. Firstly, make sure your retail display and window display is professional. Props should complement the display and be kept to a minimum. Keep imagery modern and bottles clean and facing forward.
Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 42 25.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
www.cosmeticatrading.com Tel : +971 4 2394 666 Mail: info@cosmeticatrading.com DUBAI
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spa mentorship
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The future is bright The pilot year of the Global Mentorship Program (GMP) has been hailed a phenomenal success. We find out how the initiative will continue to raise the bar in 2016
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he mentorship programme is the first international initiative of its kind in the spa and wellness industry and allows spa managers interested in elevating their experience to be paired with a more senior spa director mentor. The GMP, which launched in January 2015, will recommence in January 2016 with the first of two sixmonth long sessions. Mentee spa managers, who must have at least two years’ experience, are matched with a spa director with
a minimum of five years’ experience. Mentees are in touch with their mentor, who can be based anywhere in the world, for insight and advice at least twice a month. The inaugural 2015 edition of the programme saw 34 mentees in 22 countries paired with 17 mentors, and programme organisers are aiming for 100 mentees and 50 mentors in 2016. We spoke to co-chair Jean-Guy de Gabriac and Shahida Siddique, GMPP’s regional supervisor for the Middle East to learn more.
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Aromatherapy to boost your business
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How do you feel the programme has been received so far? What feedback have you had, both from mentors and from mentees?
JG: Since January 2015, the first Global Mentorship Program for spa managers and spa directors has received a lot of support from international spa associations and from major trade publications. In order to track the perceived benefits and the achieved results we submitted pre- and post-programme questionnaires to all mentors and mentees to ask about their expectations and observations and gleaned the following information:
. . . .
100 per cent of mentors and mentees believe the GMPP benefits the spa industry
98 per cent of mentors and mentees believe the GMPP was “Very Successful” or “Successful”
What would you say are the key benefits of participating, both for mentees and for mentors?
The main benefit perceived by all is the phenomenal level of positive and constructive energy that mentees feel from being able to explore new ways of interacting with their team. In this sense, 86 per cent of mentees "Absolutely” felt more motivated at work due to being mentored. Benefiting from their mentor’s experience, they gain insights on how to better cope with time-management, priority sorting and how to empower their staff. As a result, 97 per cent of mentees believe they are better leaders due to the Global Mentorship Program; 69 per cent of mentees perceived that they had “Great Improvement” of their leadership and management skills and 79 per cent “Absolutely” felt more productive at work after being mentored.
97 per cent of mentees believe their participation in GMPP helped them be a more effective spa manager 61 per cent of mentors and mentees said the quality What has been the initial response to the of their experience was “Excellent”; with 29 per cent saying "Very Good" (together they GMPP in the GCC region? total 90 per cent) SS: The initial response to the programme Benefiting All the other results will be released at in the GCC was good. Since it was a pilot from their mentor’s the Global Wellness Summit in Mexico programme, we had only four mentors experience, they gain City on November 13-15, 2015. in the region and conducted the insights on how to better programme twice. However, starting in January we will officially launch the cope with timeYou are aiming for up to 50 GMPP and expect many more mentors management, priority mentors and 100 mentees in and mentees to join this free programme sorting and how 2016. Is there anything else in and share experiences for the larger to empower their particular that you are hoping interest of the spa industry.
for from the programme next year – that will grow it from this year’s programme?
staff.
JG: 2015 was a “pilot programme” to test the concept and fine-tune the operations (especially the administrative coordination). In 2016, not only do we wish to scale up the number of mentees, but also to maximise the ripple-effect of the take-aways of the programme in spa management and spa leadership, through a publication to be released at the GWS and sent to all international spa associations. In 2016, we will continue to grow the visibility of the programme and will explore innovative mentoring formats. As of now, we offer “formal mentoring” where mentors and mentees are matched based on the skills described in ISPA’s Body of Knowledge. We also wish to look into "peer mentoring", where spa professionals in similar positions would provide support, empathy, and advice to each other.
Shahida Siddique is GMPP’s regional supervisor for the Middle East and chief executive officer of Spadunya Middle East Distribution
What are your plans for the GCC in the next phase of GMP?
SS: The aim is to enhance the standard of business practice in the spa industry all around the world. The GCC is a relatively young spa market but with a huge number of spas due to its growing hospitality industry. Spa managers are often so involved in making the machinery of their spa work that they remain oblivious to the industry's best practice. Our region requires a large number of spa professionals. I am hoping that through this programme we can create an ongoing mentoring and trusting relationship between the spa managers and the established spa directors of the region so that best practice is established across the board and the spa industry grows in totality.
The first six-month session will run from January to June; with the second taking place from July to December. The Global Mentorship Programme will also present a publication at this year’s Global Wellness Summit in Mexico on November 13-15.
Jean-Guy de Gabriac is the co-chair of the Global Mentorship Program and CEO of Tip Touch International
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
spa technology
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Wear and tech
Richard Crawford-Small on wearable technology
I
t has happened. The future has finally arrived and I am seriously excited. No, not the advent of the flying car (although that would be awesome), I’m talking about the ability to talk to someone through my watch! The Apple Watch is here, but more on that later. There is a huge amount of interest in wearable technologies in the media and no general consensus on whether or not this emerging technology is going to resonate with the general public. After all, didn’t Google Glass get canned? Samsung Galaxy Gear has been on the market for a while now, and despite being surrounded by geeks, I know just one person who bought one, so you would be justified in asking what all the fuss is about, and will it have an impact on your business? Wearables have actually been around in sport for a few years in the form of Adidas MiCoach, a chip you put in your trainers that records how much walking, sprinting or general ambling you have done during a period of time. In the UK, Saracens rugby team trialled a chip that recorded the impact of collisions to help understand the issues around concussion, and Nike had the fuel band, which also helped you record your training. The issues with Google Glass are that you look a bit silly, you are walking about with over AED5,000 of equipment on your face and no one will trust you because they think that you are recording everything that they say. So why will Apple Watch be any different? Whether you like Apple or not, what they have created is a platform for businesses to communicate to their customer base, and in my opinion it’s the best platform – the iPhone. It is widely reported that we look at our phones over 200 times a day, and over 30 per cent of
people sleep with their phone in reach. It is totally woven into our daily lives, and yet very few aesthetic businesses use the notification technology inbuilt in these devices to communicate with their client base and rely on SMS appointment reminders and email for communication. The iPhone screen is valuable marketing real estate, but you need an app on the iPhone to be able to push the notifications to, so to really drive your marketing messages home, you need to concentrate your firepower on one place – the Smartphone screen – and combine email, SMS, push and in app notifications. This is where the Apple Watch really comes into its own, as your marketing messages will now hit the wrist of your target customers and allow you to interact with them. But it’s not all just about the Apple Watch, as chipsets become ever cheaper and the consumer becomes more accustomed to having yet another device beeping at them, the market for wearables will grow and develop. With the beauty and spa market in mind, what could wearable technology offer our customers apart from delivering information? Watch this space!
Richard Crawford-Small is the creator of the iConsult system and director of RCS Business Consulting Services in the UK.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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Spotlight on speakers
Our monthly catch up with key speakers from the 2016 Professional Spa and Wellness Convention. This month we feature Paul Hawco. Why is KPIs a topic you want to speak on?
Key performance indicators (KPIs) have been a hot topic for many years and at last year’s Professional Spa and Wellness conference in Dubai, an even greater awareness and level of ownership was inspired. Arising from these sessions and talks we are pleased to share solid progress and general information on KPIs in general, as well as benchmarking. In my position, I have been fortunate enough to operate more than 100 treatment rooms across Jumeirah spas in Dubai and have had the benefit of multi-unit KPI data. Furthermore, I am passionate about the importance of them; I also believe a deeper KPI focus is needed in our operations, as well as a higher level of financial accountability, and look forward to speaking on these topics.
What would you like the audience to take away from this session?
That today’s spa is very much about business and a spa requires a solid business plan supporting a concise and meaningful flow of information and data. Every spa’s goal is to maximise revenue generation and to derive the potential from each and every opportunity.
What can we expect from your presentation?
taking more responsibility for their well-being and looking for brands that make pursuing wellness easier, because it can be difficult. Hotel and spa guests are more aware and educated on choices and what they want, some seeking wellness “along the journey” and others as the purpose of the trip. This requires us to adapt our mindset to accommodate this new health-conscious guest. These guests desire health and wellness-related products that are results oriented and accessible fitness and nutrition.
What is the most important global role for the spa and wellness industry?
Wellness today is growing across several segments and dimensions and each is growing exponentially, so much so that now the global spa and wellness sector now represents a US$3.4trilion industry. Based on this growth, the spa and wellness industry is now divided into four segments: spa industry, wellness tourism, wellness lifestyle products and services, and thermal and mineral springs. My background in the wellness industry is spa. I feel a pressing need, along with the industry, to find ways to work towards ensuring spa remains integral and grows within the ever-expanding realm and dimensions of wellness today.
My message is that KPIs are used towards evaluating Why are industry events such as the Professional a spa's performance and growth; that is to say it is not simply a measurement stick, but a call to action! While Spa and Wellness Convention important? monitoring and utilising KPI data is critical, typically it is The 2016 Professional Spa and Wellness Convention in done on a monthly and quarterly basis. These statistics Dubai enables a medium, location, theme and ability to are then analysed to ensure they are properly learn, grow and share, helping the industry grow. interpreted and actions taken. The programme includes workshops, product However, I feel it is imperative to set up "Today’s presentations and networking opportunities spa is very much more frequent, even daily, monitoring. A for those keen to enhance their knowledge about business spa cannot wait until end-of-month results and business skills, discover new industry and a spa requires alone. Our panel will address not only the a solid business trends and learn how to overcome new or plan supporting a monitoring and extracting of KPIs, but also existing challenges facing their business. best practice regarding what steps to take concise and meaningful The conference allows us to come together flow of information under a varying set of outcomes and results. and to share insights and experiences that and data" are interesting and critical for success going forward.
What industry changes would you like to see in 2016?
Wellness is an opportunity to further reshape the perception of spa and I see wellness as an opportunity for spa to re-shape its image, to regroup after the global recession, and to move away from the perception of spa as merely a provider of luxurious pampering and beauty services.
What have been the most important spa industry developments in the last few years?
Clients' expectations have shifted and consumers are
Which sessions are you most looking forward to at the convention?
The conference will be in its second year and I look forward to attending. We all have something to learn and something to give – we will all be in the presence of like-minded professionals and I look forward to immersing myself in this environment. I consider the convention, workshops and networking opportunities as an opportunity to not only “learn and take-away” but also “give back" to the spa and hospitality industry.
Paul Hawco is director of Talise Spa operations, Jumeirah Hotels and Resorts. With 19 years' experience in the industry, Paul is responsible for the commercial, operational and developmental aspects for Talise spa, Jumeirah’s signature spa and wellness brand. Since joining the Dubai Spa community he has been highly active in the local spa industry.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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Shades of success
We catch up with Ruksher Malik, co-founder of award-winning salon brand Pastels
Tell us the Pastels story When I decided to pursue hairdressing as my profession, my mother encouraged me to train at the best schools, as she believed in the importance of good hairdressing. She herself used to travel from Pune to Bombay, in India, to have her hair cut. She told me that she would only support me if I received quality, intensive training and so I moved to London when I was 18 and trained for almost three years. Years later, I was running a small but successful salon in Pune when my husband’s job relocated to the UAE and so I decided to focus on my daughters and work as a stylist from home. Then due to a growing client list, I took a job at The Hair Shop which was run by Steven Chan. After seven years there, we decide to partner and we opened the first Pastels Salon in the Oasis Centre, Dubai. Following a fire in the Oasis Centre, we relocated to a villa on Al Wasl Road and as our customer base grew, we opened a second salon within the Ritz Carlton Dubai Marina in 2008 before establishing a branch in Mercato Mall in 2011. As business flourished and our client demand grew, we relocated our Al Wasl branch to a more spacious villa in 2012, which boasts state-of-the-art styling areas and treatment rooms, as well as client parking. Now we have three salons in Dubai and will open a fourth next year at the Dubai Polo and
Equestrian Club. It has been an amazing journey for me and watching Pastels grow from just Steven and I to a family of 75 has been wonderful.
Which brands do you use in your salons? What elements are important when making brand selection? For hair, we offer L’Oréal (including Kérastase) and Redken. We were also the first salon in the Middle East to offer the award-winning KeraStraight treatment, which offers smooth hair for up to four months. Our retail line comprises tools and accessories by EIDEAL, Tangle Teezer, DFuse and Invisibobble, powerstyler and hairdo. The treatments that comprise our beauty menu use acclaimed high-end brands, such as Eminence Organic, IMAGE skincare, Guinot, Essie, Shellac, Gelish and Lycon wax to name but a few.
Who makes up the majority of your customer base? We are proud to have a very diverse customer base that includes both men and women from many cultures, namely Arabic, Western and Asian. Our clients all have one thing
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How easy is it to recruit and retain the right staff? As you can imagine, we are inundated from hair and beauty professionals who want to work with us, partly because of our reputation but also because we offer brilliant training opportunities for all our staff, ensuring their skill set grows while they are with us. It is vital to us that anyone who we recruit has not only excellent credentials and loves what they do, but is a real team player who will add something special to the Pastels brand and help it to continue to grow. Once a hair stylist or beauty therapist becomes part of our team, more often than not they fall in love with the brand and its philosophy and often spend many years with us.
What has been your greatest achievement with Pastels salons? We have had many highlights since we established Pastels Salon. I think however being recognised as the one of the leading hair and beauty destinations in the UAE is my proudest achievement. Once we secured this reputation, many fantastic opportunities have come our way, such as being named the official hair and nail sponsor for the J Winter Fashion Show in early 2013, winning the Best Hair Salon award at the Viva Beauty Awards later that year and now being chosen to be the leading salon partner with Fashion Forward Season 6.
fashion. We also give our creative team the chance to invent seasonal hair collections that attract international interest and which have been featured in many well-established industry publications globally such as Launchpad and Hair UK. These factors ensure that we attract the hottest talent in the industry whenever we recruit. Finally customer service is everything to us. We want to ensure that our clients look forward to, and thoroughly enjoy, the Pastels’ experience and so as well as offering the best treatments, every member of the Pastels Salon team is committed to offering that personal touch that we hope makes our clients feel special.
Finally, out of all the services you offer in your salons, which is your particular favourite and why? My favourite is the Women on the Run package, a pioneering concept that we have introduced to the UAE. This is a collection of express hair and beauty treatments designed to meet the needs of busy people who are short on time but always strive to look their best. We based this concept around the ideology of a Formula 1 car being attended to by a team of professionals in the pit stop. By applying this methodology to the salon experience, we offer the opportunity to get all your grooming needs attended to by having a team of hair and beauty experts working on you simultaneously. This is perfect for me because I rarely have the luxury of time to spend hours in the salon getting treatments, yet as an ambassador of the brand, it is vital I look my best always. PB
What differentiates you from other businesses and what is your particular formula for success? There are several elements that I believe have led to our success. We strive to continually improve and offer pioneering services and treatments to our clients, such as the Women On the Run package, which we recently introduced. We also offer fantastic opportunities for training and professional development as well as the chance to work on exciting and influential photoshoots, media events and
Ruksher Malik is co-founder of the highly successful and award-winning Pastels Salon brand. She spent two years training in London acclaimed hair academies, namely Vidal Sassoon, Toni & Guy, The L’orÊal Technical Academy, Nicky Clarke, Morris masterclass international and Complections international. After establishing a successful salon in India, Ruksher relocated to the UAE in 1996, setting up the Pastels Salon brand with business partner Steven Chan in 2004.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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pregnancy
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Mind the bump
Frederika Whitehead explains how to attract and treat pregnant clients in your spa or salon
P
regnancy can be a wonderful yet stressful time as a woman’s body adapts to the growing life within. Spa treatments offer a great way for pregnant women to relax, however, if you’re going to treat women during pregnancy, your treatments must be modified to be safe. So, what's different about the spa experience during pregnancy? Well for starters, overheating must be avoided in pregnancy as it’s been shown that it can cause birth defects. Therefore, hot tubs, saunas and steam rooms must not be used. But swimming is encouraged and sitting on the edge of the whirlpool
with swollen legs dangling in front of the jets can feel great. Certain pressure points in the body can trigger contractions and bring on labour – which could be catastrophic before the baby is full term. So it's important to modify the treatment routine and avoid these points, which means therapists must be pregnancy trained and hold appropriate certification. Therapists should be trained on how to work with pregnant clients, before they are allowed to carry out treatments on them and should carry an advanced pregnancy massage qualification.
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During a pregnancy massage, the abdomen should only be massaged very lightly, and some mothersto-be will prefer it to be avoided altogether. Because the risk of miscarriage is so much higher in the first trimester of pregnancy, most spas will not treat women during this period. No one wants to be blamed when the worst happens.
Safety First
There is still some debate as to how safe essential oils are to use on pregnant women. However, most experts agree that certain essentials oils are perfectly fine to use, provided the expectant mother is healthy, the pregnancy is progressing as it should and the oils have been diluted. Essential oils that are considered safe to use on pregnant clients, from the second trimester onwards, include frankincense, German chamomile, bergamot, ginger, neroli, patchouli, petitgrain and ylang ylang. Among the essential oils that should not be used on pregnant clients are birch, basil, camphor, hyssop, pennyroyal, wintergreen and wormwood. If you are uncertain as to which essential oils are and are not safe to use on pregnant clients, it is, however, always advisable not to use any.
Confidence and reassurance
Women who are more than 16 weeks pregnant can't lie flat on their backs as the weight of the baby will press on the vein that supplies the baby with nutrients and they obviously can't lie on their fronts either, so the massage couch needs to be adapted to reflect this. Electric beds that elevate the shoulders to maintain the blood flow to the bump can be used, and some spas and salons purchase specially designed cushions that allow pregnant clients to lie face down with their bump dropping down into a gap between the cushions. Massage beds with holes cut into them to accommodate
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
the bump are also an option. The least costly alternative is to get the women to lie on their side, though if the bed is too hard, this could be uncomfortable. If you are offering spa treatments to women in late stages of pregnancy, you will need to make extra large robes available. I have experienced cases where the robe supplied did not do up around my bump, which caused some embarrassment. You should also check the fit of the slippers, as women’s feet tend to swell during pregnancy. There are so many things to avoid in pregnancy that it can be a constant worry; you frequently wonder what is ok and if you should be doing this or that. Women may feel guilty about having a massage or even swimming too vigorously, if they think it might harm the baby. So it is important for the therapist to make them feel that they are in good hands. If a pregnant clients turns up at your spa and is invited to try out the sauna or have a deep tissue massage whilst lying on her back, she will be concerned that your staff don't know how to adapt treatments to ensure they are pregnancy safe. Therapists should reassure mothers-to-be, firstly by not offering them inappropriate treatments and secondly by explaining how and why they are adapting the treatment with the pregnancy in mind. With so much to take onboard, many smaller spas and salons avoid treating pregnant women altogether. However, for a good-sized spa or salon, where the staff has been well trained in working with expectant mothers, offering this service shouldn't be a problem, and it’s a good way to demonstrate the competence of your staff and your business. It’s also worth considering the kind of message you’re sending out by saying that you are not confident treating pregnant women in your establishment, turning these clients away. Additionally, by offering a service that not every spa provides, you can attract new customers. PB
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tried and tested
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Going for glow Revitalising nail, face, hair and hair treatments are put to the test this month This month we tried… Mani/pedi at Chi Nail Spa The venue’s spa’s tagline is Chi – The vital energy – and when I leave the second Chi Nail Spa, which only opened in September, I certainly feel that my vitality has been restored. Reviewing mani and pedicures can be difficult unless there is a point of difference, but there were several aspects of my experience at Chi Nail Spa that made it stand out. Firstly the accompanying massage. A bit tired and depleted, I relax back on the comfy chairs and my eyes begin to close as the hand massage starts. Once the therapist doing my pedicure starts massaging my feet, then my eyes truly shut and the therapists urges me to “sleep – close your eyes and really feel the massage.” At every step, the therapist stops
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
to check what my requirements are and also my comfort levels. These elements make the treatment a cut above the average mani and pedi experience. I am also really impressed with the polish. I opt for the Zoya polish, which is a natural range, and I love the bright and vibrant colours on offer. The neon pink I plump for feels light on my nails and I am truly surprised that it doesn’t start to chip for 7 days. This is probably the most long lasting manicure I’ve ever experienced. I left feeling truly pampered, refreshed and with my vital energy restored. It seems to me that the second Chi Nail Spa is destined to be as popular as the first. Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks
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This month we tried‌ K-Lift Vital C facial at Lime Spa, Per Aquum Desert Palm Resort The lowdown: The Kerstin Florian K-Lift Age Management System aims to deliver essential rejuvenating nutrients to the skin. Kerstin Florian say the technology behind this machine comes from NASA experiments and Nobel Prize winning laureates and the treatment combines non-invasive, anti-ageing technologies: red LED (light emitting diodes) light therapy (light energy), impulse microcurrent (kinetic energy) and transdermal delivery. The red LED light helps to improve dermal density and trigger collagen production, the impulse microcurrents (which target anti-gravity muscle groups) re-educate muscle tone and firm and lift the skin while also stimulating cellular energy. The third technology, transdermal delivery, helps to deliver essential rejuvenating nutrients to the skin. The powerful antioxidants in the vitamin C help combat the first signs of ageing by strengthening skin elasticity, stimulating collagen production and repairing sun damage. PB Says: After the signature Lime spa foot cleanse and lime sorbet, my facial begins with cleansing, and the therapist has a light and expert touch. Cleansing is followed by the application of an enzyme peeling lotion, which is propelled further into my skin as my pores are opened with steam. It feels slightly hot, but my therapist assures me that the enzyme lotion is good for sensitive skin and that my face isn’t red. After the exfoliation come the extractions, which
are not painful, and then the therapist covers my eyes and applies a cooling serum before using the K-Lift machine. I am warned that there will be some bright light, which is the LED function. The machine probes are pressed onto my face and I feel a gripping sensation, which is unusual, but not painful. The machine is moved to various points on my face starting at my neck and culminating on my forehead. The process is then repeated. Following the machine, I enjoy a relaxing massage and the application of a spirulina algae masque, rich in proteins and vitamins to illuminate the skin and create a firmer and more youthful complexion. The machine is used once again at the end of the facial to help propel the products into the skin, and this time the probe is soft and like a roller ball. The strokes are very relaxing. My therapist explains that a course of one treatment a week for several weeks is recommended to see real results but my skin does appear more dewy and hydrated following the session. In the next fortnight, it feels more hydrated and markedly plumper and more glowing. Following the facial I relax in the spa’s relaxation room before having breakfast at the resort. The Lime Spa is a haven of tranquility and the Desert Palm resort feels like a true escape and retreat from busy city life. Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks
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New! New! New! The WellMassage4D by Gharieni and Tip Touch Spa experts Gharieni and Tip Touch have join forces to create a new massage technique. WellMassage 4D has been designed to utilise the full range and functionality of Gharieni’s technology driven wellness beds “MLX”, “MLR” AND “MLR Wet”. Designed to last 50 or 75 minutes, guests can choose from two massages, Relax and Deep. The former aims to
instill tranquility, while the latter is targeted at those who want a more vigorous, in-depth massage. The massages are designed to work in synergy with the beds, with eight specially programmed table positions and some manual signature techniques. They are also designed to give more comfort to therapists and prevent them from suffering from RSI.
This month we tried… Going Bronde with L’Oréal Professionnel The lowdown: The term “bronde” isn’t a new one – it’s been making headlines for over a year now. A combination of brunette and blonde, it’s a trend that oozes versatility and is suited to all hair types and skin tones. L’Oréal Professionnel, has, however, breathed new life into “bronde” with the introduction of a new mocha palette of colours that includes three new INOA shades and four new Majirel Cool Cover shades. The introduction of its Blonde Studio range has further enhanced the diversity and customisation that can be created by colourists looking to create a “bronde” look. PB says: My hair routine over the last few years has been fairly habitual, a mid-tone brunette colour with a few honey and caramel highlights for added depth, so opting for a new “bronde” look on the face of it didn’t seem too drastic a change. L’Oréal Professionnel’s senior trainer Mariya was tasked with the role of transforming my locks and I was immediately impressed by her knowledge, explanations and interest in not just my approach to colour, but my hair care routine in general. The initial consultation was thorough and incredibly detailed, along with assessing my hair and its current colour profile, Mariya also took into consideration my skin tone and eye colour – and consulted me throughout every colour choice made. Perhaps the biggest decision was to use a darker, cooler mocha tone as my overall base colour and then to lift this with a lighter blonde shade. Mariya began the colour transformation by using a bleaching paste to lighten sections of my hair. I was slightly sceptical about the idea of bleaching, but she explained that the creamy paste is much gentler than other forms of bleaching
solutions and far reduces the risk of breakage. Rather than foils she used Sweet Meches when applying the paste. This, she explained, allowed for more vibrancy in the hair. Breaking away from the trend to highlight hair horizontally, Mariya used a diagonal approach that allows the colours to blend more seamlessly but adds greater depth at the same time. To create the darker mocha tone, Mariya mixed four different Majirel colours to fashion a tone that was just right for me. Once this had been applied and given time to take, I was ushered over to the sink for a rinse and a toner application – to soften and even out the colour and reduce any brassiness. Mariya then cut my hair, chopping off (at my request) at least 1 inch, and adding in some layers. A blow dry, and a several more helpful maintenance tips from Mariya later, and I was ready for the big reveal. My reaction was undoubtedly positive: the colour was vibrant and glossy and looked refreshingly natural; my hair looked and crucially felt soft, smooth and healthy. So would I recommend going "bronde"? Absolutely!
Before
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product news
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Be beautiful
This winter, we spotlight the choicest products for the cooler season
TanOrganic Tan Organic’s Self Tan Lotion offers a sunless tan with no streaks, no odour and the perfect fade. TanOrganic has an 84 per cent aloe vera base ensuring that the skin is left hydrated and moisturised. This means the tan doesn’t dry or flake,and will fade perfectly. The product is ideal for clients with sensitive skin and those who are pregnant as it is free from harsh chemicals, parabens, colours and fragrances. Call +971 55 294 69 92
Thalgo The Absolute Hydra Marine Concentrate from Thalgo is a seven-day treatment for clients looking for an SOS hydrating treatment. The product promises to rehydrate and plump the skin in record time with high and low molecular hyaluronic acids. The product should be applied on a daily basis, morning and evening before the client’s daily skincare routine for optimum results. Call +971 4 338 27 73
Jane Iredale The Barely Rose Pure-pressed blush aims to give clients an inner-glow with a just-blushed look. Formulated with minerals and antioxidants to soothe and nourish the skin, the product defines and highlights cheekbones and free of chemical dyes and irritating ingredients and non-comedogenic. Call + 971 5 5954 23 92
Goldwell Professional hair dye line Topchic promises intense colours with 100 per cent grey coverage. From classic N shades, cool NA shades, intense NN shades to TriFlective naturals, the colour is guaranteed by the brand’s Dye Penetration and Reflects System. Durability for cool colours is ensured by the brand’s innovative CoolProtect Technology and The Equalizer System 2.0. guarantees that the application is even. Call +971 4 338 27 73
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Soleil Toujours This collection of luxury sun protection is free of parabens, phthalates, sodium laurel sulfates, oxybenzone, retinyl palmitate, propylene glycol, petrolatum, synthetic fragrance and colour. It is hypoallergenic, vegan and gluten-free. As well as providing protection from the sun, the products address multiple skincare concerns including fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, uneven texture, loss of elasticity, dryness, sunburn and inflamed or stressed skin. The range’s proprietary EcoSun Complex, a cornerstone ingredient complex, is composed of red algae, vitamin C ester, vitamin E and bisabolol. Call +971 4 379 19 66
Davines The Melu hair shield is ideal for protecting all types of hair from the heat stress caused by a straightener or hairdryer. It can be applied to dry or damp hair and contains lentil seeds to nourish and repair, panthenal moisturise and provide shine to the hair and quatenium 8 to which has softening, conditioning and antistatic proprieties to speed up blow drying time. Anionic resin provides the thermal protection and the product has floral and woody scent. Call +971 4 447 7636
Vismaras The Andromeda Salt Mover is an innovative, multifunctional bed that allows your client to lie on healing and soothing Himalayan salt crystals. Andromeda provides a unique multi-sensory experience with a chromo relax function and electric lifting system which can adjusted for maximum comfort. Call +971 4 338 27 73
Eric Favre Call + 971 4 38 04 123 Eric Favre Paris, Beauty Hair Color (BHC) is a hair dye with a pro-vitamin treatment that covers white or grey hair with 100 per cent coverage. It is free from parabens, ammonia, silicone and resorcin. Prescribed for delicate hair, this hair care system is made from an ultra-gentle, natural complex and is clinically and dermatologically tested. It also has UV protection to preserve the colour. Call + 971 4 38 04 123
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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77 Hydropeptide The Solar Defense SPF 30 is an award winning, non-greasy sunscreen which self-adjusts to the colour of the skin tone with antiageing ingredients that hydrate, protect and help clarify the skin. Acai, green tea, aloe, hyaluronic acid, galanga, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide are all included in this power packed formula and it is totally free of gluten, parabens, phthalate and sulfates. The product includes a moisture-bending peptide rich in protein and derived from yeast extract, which reactivates epidermal lipids and allows for improved, long-lasting hydration. This significantly decreases the sebaceous secretion of oily skin, leaving a non-shiny appearance. The product’s self-adjusting sphere also camouflages mild hyperpigmentation and redness while offering a more even, flawless, matte finish. Call +971 4 336 34 33
Dermalogica The Power Recovery masque helps rescue stressed, ageing skin. Powerful, concentrated vitamins A, C, E and F help skin recover from damage that leads to skin ageing while enhancing barrier properties. Vitamin A increases elasticity and moisture content while antioxidant vitamins C and E help shield skin from Reactive Oxygen Species (free radicals). Nutrient-rich algae extract moisturises and softens skin, Pro-Vitamin B5 nourishes damaged skin, while botanical extracts of liquorice, comfrey and burdock soothe, calm and help decrease sensitivity. Call + 971 5 5954 23 92
Nova Nails Nova Nails is a safe and washable nail polish. It comes in 24 shades and is paraben and acetone-free, and can be removed with water alone making sure it is not only safe for women, but also for children. It is applied like ordinary nail varnish and the colours are just as vibrant, but removal is super quick, easy and mess free. Call +971 4 338 27 73
Voya Call +971 4 379 19 66 The Even Pure light and calming moisturiser contains 95 per cent certified organic ingredients and is part of Voya’s facial range for oily and combination skin types. The product decreases pore size and reduces sebum production, while replenishing with essential vitamins and minerals leaving the skin perfectly balanced. Key ingredients include rosehip fruit oil, plum kernal oil, aloe leaf, bergamot fruit oil, himanthalia elongata (seaweed extract), alpine willow herb. Call +971 4 379 19 66
Professional Beauty GCC November 2015
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78 DISTRIBUTORS
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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
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professionalbeauty.ae
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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
TRAINING
Hair Make-up
Beauty Body Spa
Come Along. Talk to Us. ENROLL. Contact us: +974 44542422/ +974 44542466
OfďŹ cial Sponsor
Follow us on: /TajmeelAcademy Email:qiba-sdc@qf.org.qa www.qiba.com.qa
diary dates
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Diary dates
NOVEMBER 2015 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL A/W COLLECTION ROADSHOWS Various locations L’Oréal Professionnel is hitting the regional road in November with a series of roadshows for its autumn/winter collection. The dates for the roadshows are as follows: Kuwait - 8 November, Dubai - 15 November, Abu Dhabi - 22 November, Jeddah - 22 November, Riyadh – 23 November, Dammam – 24 November and Qatar – 29 November. JANUARY 28-31 IMCAS WORLD CONGRESS Le Palais des Congrès de Paris, Paris, France The 18th IMCAS Annual World Congress will once again unite plastic surgeons, dermatologists and aestheticians at an event that combines exhibition with educational seminars.Exhibitors will be showcasing innovations in areas such as
cosmeceuticals, implants, lasers and injectables. www.imcas.com/en FEBRUARY 28-29 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON London ExCeL, United Kingdom Professional Beauty London will once again combine live stages and seminars with nail and make-up competitions and an exhibition where hundreds of new products will be launched. professionalbeauty.co.uk FEBRUARY 28-29 PROFESSIONAL SPA & WELLNESS CONVENTION London ExCeL, United Kingdom Running in parallel to the Professional Beauty London exhibition, the PSW Convention will bring together leading global professionals from the spa industry to share their success stories and industry insights. professionalbeauty.co.uk
DISTRIBUTORS
Welcome to me! bath experience
Luxuries Manicure & Pedicure Treatments A revolutionary way of caring for your skin. Join us in what will surely be a change in the way we treat our hands and feet.
Don’t Miss... FEBRUARY 1-2 2016 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GCC Meydan, Dubai, UAE Professional Beauty GCC is back at a new venue for 2016. Commanding a larger exhibition space, the event will once again provide a unique platform to showcase products, network with fellow professionals and access a range of insightful industry talks, demonstrations and live shows. www.professionalbeautygcc.com
SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae
HAIR B... COLLECTION
Beauty & Personal Care Equipment Trading LLC Tel : +971 4 2394 666 DUBAI ABU DHABI
Mail: info@cosmeticatrading.com RAS AL KHAIMAH FUJAIRAH www.cosmeticatrading.com
High-end spa tables, beds and equipment for your spa. Made in Germany
Gharieni Middle-East // The Platinum Tower, Cluster I - No. 2102, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, PO Box 392642, Dubai U.A.E. +9 71 4 - 2 76 67 34 // Mobile: +9 71 55 952 3412 // info@gharieni.ae // www.gharieni.ae Gharieni Group Germany // +49 28 41 - 88 300 -50 // export@gharieni.com // www.gharieni.com