Professional Beauty GCC - October 2015 by Professional Beauty GCC

October 2015

For your beauty, hair and spa business

GCC

Fully furnished Stylish furniture solutions for your salon

How may I help you? Our guide to telephone etiquette

Pinktober special Our industry promotes breast cancer awareness

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Published by and (C) 2015 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LLC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributing editor: Zoe Moleshead zoe@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Maria Dowling and Namita Ramani Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Marketing Manager: Nicki Wyatt nicki@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production:

Scratch Advertising & Communication www.scratchcom.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

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in this issue... Regulars

Features

9 News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty

27 Face value The hottest sunscreens for the face

21 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 32 Ask the experts Advice on eyebrow enhancements, rebranding and machine facials 61 Treatment news We test out the newest nail, brow and facial therapies 72 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training

Shutterstock

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

48 Well groomed We learn about the grooming companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rise to success 58 Work smart, not hard Namita Ramani explains the business benefits of marketing automation

9 61 How may I help you? Maria Dowling takes us through telephone etiquette

welcome

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n the mobile a ge, the seemingly ince ssa nt usa ge of sma r t phone a nd tablets is of ten bla med for e ating into our time both at home a nd at work. However, the right technolog y ca n have ma ny time sav ing benefits.In her column this month entitled Work Smart, Not Hard ( page 53), Namita Ramani explains the immense time saving benefits of marketing automation as a tool to generate and communicate with your customers. The popularity of mobile apps to enable your client to book services quickly is rising, and I found out about an innovative app, launching this month, which is designed to fit all your training needs. Read more about Sally Hewerdine’s My App -titude in our news pages. Apps aside, when I do phone my regular salon or hairdresser I expect a high level of service and a good start is when the phone call is answered with my name. Made possible by caller ID, it’s a small gesture, but it works because it makes the customer feel valued and special. Maria Dowling discusses this and explains how to conduct effective telephone calls with clients in her How May I Help You? article on page 59. The countdown to the Professional Beauty GCC expo and the Professional Spa and Wellness Convention is beginning in earnest. In the November issue we will announce more details of the conference programme and what’s in store at the exhibition. Don’t miss it!

Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR

48 On the cover 41 Fully furnished Our guide to salon furniture 55 Mineral miracles The launch of Omorovicza is set to create waves in the UAE 72 Pink pages The industry promotes breast cancer awareness

61 32 Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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News

All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa

Professional Beauty acquires Salon International and Hairdressers Journal

he owners of Professional Beauty have signed a deal to acquire Salon International, Hairdressers Journal International and the British Hairdressing Awards from Reed Business Information.   Salon International is the largest UK exhibition for the professional hairdressing industry. Hairdressers Journal International is the market-leading trade magazine, with a 133year heritage. The brand has run the prestigious British Hairdressing Awards since 1984.   The deal, which is due to be completed

next month, will see the hairdressing magazine and events team relocate to Professional Beauty’s head office in London, UK.   Professional Beauty managing director Mark Moloney said: “It’s a genuine coup for Professional Beauty to have the Hairdressers Journal team joining us at our offices in west London. To have the hair and beauty industry's leading magazine and expo brands under one roof will enable us to better assist both professions in their development.”    Moloney said he hoped the expertise

Chi opens new venue in JVT Following success in Motor City, the popular Chi Nail Spa has opened a second branch in Jumeirah Village Triangle, Dubai. Visitors to the plush, grand opening event last month enjoyed free consultations, Zoya polishes, Essie giveaways and Pevonia samples. Owner Elham Mansour Frongia commented: “It was wonderful to see around 40 people enjoying our night of beauty.” The celebrations continued with an opening offer of a complimentary head/neck and shoulder massage with every manicure and pedicure in September. This month, the nail spa will offer a complimentary beauty morning,

where guests will be invited to have free consultations from the team’s beauty specialists, beauty suppliers and a nutritionist. The salon is located at the JVT Imperial Residence Building.

of the Hairdressers Journal team would help to attract more hair salons into the beauty profession, adding, “Since its inception, Professional Beauty has tried to focus on the needs of the professional treatments industry, particularly encouraging greater business professionalism among salon owners. This philosophy remains the core of our business as we look to expand both the beauty and hair sectors in the UK and overseas.” Moloney also revealed that he intended to bring the Salon International exhibition to the GCC in the future.

Kevin Murphy joins Madi portfolio Madi International has acquired the rights to distribute Australian hair brand Kevin Murphy. The natural haircare brand, which is sulphate, paraben and cruelty free, is already popular with hairdressers in the region. The brand’s unique philosophy attracted the attention of the Madi group. Mr Mohamed Madi told Professional Beauty, “We are so proud to have Kevin Murphy in our portfolio. We noticed this brand due to its uniqueness and philosophy, which is skincare for the hair. “This brand has proven outstanding results and has won customers’ hearts and minds all over the world. We are sure that this brand will grow rapidly in the Gulf region.”

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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Hewerdine launches ground-breaking training App

esigned to offer an affordable and accessible training solution on a global scale, the training platform My App-titude will go live this month. The new app allows brands, salons and spas to upload existing training courses as well as bespoke and branded training created by professional training developers. Available at the touch of a button, training will be delivered through presentations with images, tutor voiceovers and videos. The app is accessible from any

smart phone, tablet or computer, and through android or Apple. It will also offer self-assessment, multiple choice tests, certificates of achievement, free downloads for training tools as well as “message the trainer” and feedback facilities. Hewerdine believes My-Apptitude will bridge the gap with the Y generation and help raise standards in the industry. “My App-titude offers an affordable training method, accessible anywhere in the world. It’s the perfect way to deliver immediate and effective training programmes and accessible to

those you wish to educate and motivate, worldwide, 24/7. “Research shows that learners in a classroom environment can retain as little as 20 per cent information. With an online leaner, this can increase to 80 per cent.” Hewerdine also estimates that the app will provide a savings of 50 to 70 per cent on training costs for businesses. The app has already attracted much interest and brands that have signed up include UAE spa chain SensAsia. To learn more call: +971 50 280 5929, visit www.myapptitude.com or email info@myapptitude.com

Eric Favre Paris teams with TRX for fitness drive Eric Favre Paris recently partnered with TRX Training Coach and Emirates Golf Club for a wellness and fitness event at the golf club’s Fit Lab. The aim of the event was to encourage people to adopt a healthier lifestyle and to embrace a wellness concept that includes fitness. “The UAE wellness industry in the region is said to reach by AED 11 billion this year according to reports. Thus, we are actively engaging in creating awareness in choosing the right product and exercises to promote good health,” commented Eric Favre,

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

founder of Eric Favre Paris. During the event, Eric Favre Paris TRX training coach Parveez Mohamed showcased a workout programme that can help people, particularly those leading busy lives to be fit and active. The programme is designed with the aim of achieving maximum results in the minimum amount of time. “We are really excited to share this special workout [with] everyone. Living a healthier lifestyle nowadays is tough because of a lot of things. And so we have prepared a routine that will only take 30 minutes so anyone

can squeeze it into their schedules. In this way, they can achieve their goals to be in shape in a short span of time,” said Eric Favre Paris spokesperson TRX Training Coach, Parveez Mohamed.

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Blue Skies Trading teams up with Margaret Dabbs London

lue Skies Trading, one of the region’s premier wellness distributors, has signed a strategic partnership with Margaret Dabbs London, the health and beauty experts for hands and feet. Margaret Dabbs London has had a presence in the region since early 2013, when it opened the Margaret Dabbs Sole Lounge in the Level Shoe District in Dubai Mall. The continuing success of the venue has been the impetus for the company to expand its activities in the region, and to seek the support of Blue Skies Trading with this goal. “We are delighted to be working with such a prestigious brand as Margaret Dabbs London in the Middle East,” says Clare Maskall, founder of

Blue Skies. “As a pioneer of the medical pedicure she has truly put foot care on the beauty map. She [Margaret Dabbs] has built a cult status transforming the way feet look and feel and now with the recent launch of Fabulous Hands, we have a complete offering − a range of results driven products and treatments which are a perfect fit for the luxury spa market we service. Blue Skies looks forward to working closely with the Margaret Dabbs team to successfully roll out the brand across the region.” Margaret Dabbs London was founded by fully trained podiatrist Margaret Dabbs, who has created a unique range of treatments, including the ‘medical pedicure’, and award-winning products, which are based on a core ingredient of Australian organic emu oil.

GCC spa finalists announced The finalists in the 2016 World Spa and Wellness Awards have been revealed. The shortlisted candidates will now be visited by two awards judges, one official and one mystery judge, in the coming months. Following judging, the winners will be announced at an evening awards ceremony at The Brewery events venue in London on 28 February 2016. In our region the shortlisted spas for the Resort Spa of the Year

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

are: Banyan Tree Al Wadi, Ras Al Khaimah,  Emirates Palace Spa at Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi,  Talise Ottoman Spa at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Dubai and the Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont The Palm, Dubai. In the Hotel Spa of the Year category we have: Anantara Spa at Eastern Mangroves Hotel and Spa by Anantara, Abu Dhabi, Espa at The Ritz Carlton, Abu Dhabi, Goco Spa at Ajman Saray, Ajman and Mandara Spa at The H Hotel, Dubai.

Soul Spa Concepts launches a spa and wellness circle Soul Spa Concepts has introduced its latest platform, a 360° spa and wellness circle that incorporates elements such as concept wellness creations including fitness, architecture and design, project management, marketing and IT solutions and total operations. Experienced spa professionals Daniella Russell and Helen Coulon head up Soul Spa Concepts and the company has bases in Europe and the Middle East, though its geographic reach is worldwide. The 360° circle is the latest step in the company’s aim of providing a “daring and edgy facility that engages today’s modern consumer and exemplify the changing face of the traditional spa experience”.

Daniella Russell

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News in pictures

The Aloxxi experience US trainer Karina Pippin travelled to the Middle East in September to train Aloxxi salons from Dubai and Kuwait. In Dubai, the event took place at Business Bay, and local hairdressers were inspired by Pippin, who is Aloxxi’s creative advisor.

Sean Harrington

Future bright for Elemis

ean Harrington, president and co-founder of Elemis visited Dubai last month for the launch of the brand’s White Brightening skincare system. Harrington presented the benefits of the line and mingled with guests at the glamorous event held at Fortnum & Mason. Guests learned how the White Brightening system is an innovative solution for the growing demand for whiter, brighter and a more even skin tone. In our region in particular, dark spots,

age spots and excess pigmentation can cause skin to look dull, uneven and aged, due to UV exposure, hormonal influxes and lifestyle choices. Elemis has developed two newly launched facials, available across the region, and a range of products for at homecare. The facials comprise the White Brightening Even Tone BIOTEC treatment and the White Brightening Facial. The product range includes the Even Tone Cleanser, the Even Tone Lotion and the Advanced Brightening Even Tone Serum.

Wellness travel growth predicted In its annual State of Wellness Travel Report, 86 per cent of travel agents said they expect growth in wellness travel for the current year (2015). Survey findings show the wellness travel sector, a global market estimated at $494 billion (AED 1814 billion) is expanding in directions far beyond luxury spas and in more farflung global regions.

“The survey confirms what we have recognised for several years,” said Spafinder Wellness chief operating officer John Bevan. “Growth in wellness travel is outpacing traditional travel as people recognise the importance of healthier options. The hospitality and travel industries need to pay attention to the fact that this is a travel sector that will continue to grow and cannot be ignored.”

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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international news

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Industry news from around the globe

Health service champions staff wellness

he UK's National Health Service (the NHS) is joining the movement for corporate wellness. Chief executive Simon Stevens has laid out plans in a major effort to “improve and support the health and wellbeing of 1.3 million health service staff”.  The plans were devised to address sickness absence across the NHS, the main causes of which are mental health and musculoskeletal problems. Other issues to be tackled include the diet, physical activity and staff stress levels. The aim is “to ensure the NHS as an employer sets a national example in the support it offers its own staff to stay healthy”.   Speaking at the Health and Care Innovation Expo 2015 conference in Manchester, UK, Stevens detailed how the £5m (AED 28m) initiative will help NHS organisations support their staff. There are three pillars: A major drive for improved health of NHS employees, a nationallyspecified occupational health service for GPs battling stress, and national action by

NHS England working with other agencies catering providers to improve standards of food and nutrition for NHS staff. Stevens said: “NHS staff have some of the most critical but demanding jobs in the country. When it comes to supporting the health of our own workforce, frankly the NHS needs to put its own house in order. At a time when arguably the biggest operational challenge facing hospitals is converting overspends on temporary agency staff into attractive flexible permanent posts, creating healthy and supportive workplaces is no longer a “nice to have”, it’s a must-do. "And at a time when the pressures on GPs have never been greater, we need to extend the local practitioner health programmes that have been shown to help GPs stay healthy and get back to work when sick. Equally, it’s time for PFI contractors and catering firms to ‘smell the coffee’ – ditch junk food from hospitals and serve up affordable and healthy options instead. Staff, patients and visitors alike will all benefit.”   As part of pillar one, all participating

Retailing course targets “introvert” therapists US esthetician Linda Harding-Bond has launched an online training course specifically aimed at working with the introvert personality of many beauty therapists. Harding-Bond, who is also president of Moontide Consulting, which provides retail sales training and management coaching for the spa and beauty industries, launched Increasing Your Retail Selling: An Online Training Class for Spa Managers in September. The course addresses issues that create barriers to successful retailing and to increasing spa revenue, such as engaging clients in conversation with an aim to recommend products. Harding-Bond said: “Studies have shown that the majority of spa therapists and spa managers are introverts. Therefore, initiating conversation, engaging with clients and selling products is not something that feels natural and comfortable.”

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

The course focuses on training therapists on client engagement, acquiring comprehensive product knowledge and selling in a way that is natural, rather than forceful.    It incorporates eight video training modules, role-play, “customer engagement scenarios” and weekly video chats with Harding-Bond, among other elements.

organisations will have to commit to six key actions including providing access to physiotherapy and mental health talking therapies, smoking cessation and weight management services. They will also have to establish or at least promote local exercise options to staff, such as yoga or fitness classes or competitive sports teams, and encouraging healthy travel to work through the Cycle to Work scheme.

Hilton makes relaxation a family affair The spa at the Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort and Spa has added a range of treatment options for children to its spa menu. The Silhouette Spa now offers three “Mommy and Little One” treatments.  The 30-minute Tropical Massage is a relaxing treatment for the neck, back and shoulders. The Mini Facial, also half an hour features a gentle cleansing of the skin, followed by the application of a clay and kelp mask and a nourishing gel moisturiser. The third option, the Express Manicure/Pedicure, incorporates a hand or foot massage, nail treatment and a choice of polish colour. Facilities at the six-treatment room Silhouette Spa include a swimming pool, whirlpool, plunge pool, sauna, steam room and hammam. In addition to massages, facials, body scrubs, nail services, jet-lag remedies and other treatments, the spa also offers yoga classes.

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insider

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The month in numbers

Average treatment room occupancy

How did the treatment business in September 2015 compare with September 2014?

43 39 18

% BETTER

%SAME

Insider beauty, hair and nails Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the easiest way to stay in the know

% WORSE

September Percentage of clients who rebooked

A quick glance at our figures for the average treatment room occupancy and the percentage of clients rebooking would suggest that business is in essence ticking along okay. The year on year figure however reveals a more accurate picture with the numbers only slightly tipping in favour of year on year growth. In reality our respondents polled quite wildly opposing results with some businesses reporting astounding rebooking and room occupancy rates and others much lower numbers. When it comes to customer related matters, we discovered that most of you allow clients to use their mobile phones during treatments and that Facebook proves the most effective way to communicate with your customers.

On the spot Which of these areas is the most common cause for complaint? 1. Price 2. Staff 3. Products 4. Hygiene

allow clients to use mobile phone during treatments

Which of these is the most valuable communication channel for you? 1. Facebook 2. SMS 3. Website 4. Twitter

carry out periodic clients surveys

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

insider

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The month in numbers

Average treatment room occupancy

How did the treatment business in September 2015 compare with September 2014?

77 23

% BETTER

Insider spa Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

% WORSE

September The upswing in business has carried through into September with most of you reporting incredibly healthy numbers for both room occupancy and rebooking rates. Furthermore, a strong majority of you say business is up from 2014.

Percentage of clients who rebooked

Delving into your interactions with clients we discovered that your website is the key platform for communicating with your guests – so if yours isn’t up to scratch, then now might be the time to review it. Surprisingly, given the usual warnings about mobile phone usage that are posted across spas, a number of you still allow clients to use mobile phones during treatments. Encouragingly, a high percentage of you do also carry out regular surveys to attain client feedback.

On the spot Which of these areas is the most common cause for complaint? 1. Price 2. Products 3. Staff 4. Hygiene

allow clients to use mobile phone during treatments

Which of these is the most valuable communication channel for you? 1. Website 2. Facebook 3. SMS 4. Twitter

carry out periodic clients surveys

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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Face value

Professional Beauty investigates how to prescribe the best facial sunscreen for your clients

ith the mercury hitting an annual average of above 32°C (90°F) in the region, high SPF sunscreen for the face, as well as the body, is a necessity. However although most clients know that sunscreen is a powerful tool for protecting our skin, many may be using the wrong type or omitting it from their skincare regimes. So how do we best advise them? A thorough consultation before a skincare treatment is necessary. Then it is also important to educate your client that when using sunscreen on the face, a “one size fits all” approach can actually be detrimental to the skin. Dermalogica’s regional skincare expert and educator Yande Diouf explains: “You wouldn’t use your face moisturiser on your

body and vice versa. The sunscreen products for your face are formulated differently than the ones for your body. They are typically designed to be comfortable to wear on your face, specifically created for various skin types, and are more easily absorbed than sunscreens for the body.

you cannot use a heavy sunscreen, designed for dry skin, if you suffer from oily skin or acne because it will aggravate the problem “Sunscreens for the body are in contrast heavier in order to penetrate the thicker skin on the body. It is essential to use a different sunscreen on the face, one that can be easily incorporated into your skincare routine."

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

facial skincare

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Caroline Botha, head of sales at The Product House which distributes Kerstin Florian skincare concurs. “In today’s market, you will find sunscreens designed for the face that are formulated with the same high standards of a facial moisturiser, containing ingredients that not only protect our skin but are beneficial to the skin. These formulations are different than body sunscreens. Unlike the body, our face is exposed to environmental elements all day, every day.”

Team work In addition to opting for a sunscreen that is specifically designed for the face, it is important that clients select a product that is also designed to meet their individual skin concerns. Diouf says, “Skincare products should work on treating any problems you might have on the skin such as dehydration, acne, breakouts. You need to ensure that the sunscreen used works in synergy with your skincare line so that all the products work in harmony to give the best care to your skin. For instance, you cannot use a heavy sunscreen, designed for dry skin, if you suffer from oily skin or acne because it will aggravate the problem. The products all need to work as a team to protect and nourish your skin." Furthermore using a sunscreen from the same range as your client’s normal skincare products can really enhance the skin. “We encourage using Kerstin Florian skincare with our Kerstin Florian sunscreens,” says Botha. “All of our collections are loaded with powerful antioxidants and phyto-extracts which boosts the sunscreen protection factor and protects against free radical damage while nourishing the skin. An example would be using our Correcting Serum C+ prior to the Multi-vitamin Day Crème SPF 30. The antioxidants and phyto-extracts will boost the SPF factor and prevent free radical damage when used together." Many clients who suffer from acne and problem skin are afraid to use sunscreens, but only those products that are heavy and contain a lot of fragrance pose a problem to oily skin. In fact, these skin types are even more likely to benefit from the use of a daily high SPF sunscreen.

You wouldn’t use your face moisturiser on your body and vice versa. The sunscreen products for your face are formulated differently than the ones for your body Svetlana Grishakova business development manager of Reino Perfumes and Cosmetics which distributes Germine D Cappucini says: “It is essential to use a facial sunscreen even if you have acne because you still have to protect your skin from ageing free radicals and from pigmentation. People who have acne are more likely to have pigmentation and the sunscreen prevents that from

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

happening. It also protects the existing acne scars from becoming darker and appearing more permanent. There are specific sunscreens for people who have acne and these are designed not to aggravate the problem.“

Layering Although a sunscreen may have skin benefits, it should not be used to replace day cream or moisturiser and it is important that clients use both, in the right order. Grishakova advises to apply moisturiser before sunscreen and make-up after sunscreen. “To get the best protection, clients should use a day cream and that also contains and SPF,” she says. “Germaine de Capuccini Timexpert C+ Intensive Revitalizing Cream SPF-10 is perfect. Foundation or make-up can be applied after sunscreen and many of today’s brands also include an SPF in their make-up perfect.” Botha says, “Use a SPF daily moisturiser that is also beneficial to the skin, such as Kerstin Florian’s MultiVitamin Day Crème SPF 30 which provides lightweight hydration while nourishing and protecting the skin. It is vitamin-rich packed with antioxidants adding an extra protection against environmental stressors. Blend your SPF with your favourite make-up to create a tinted moisturiser. Here you get the SPF protection blended with your foundation of choice." Read our expert tips and product picks to further help your client chose the best sunscreen for her face...

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We ask several brands for the most important ingredients to look out for in a sunscreen: Germaine de Capuccini: “Beyond doubt, the most important components to look for in a cream with sun-protection are filters. The safest filters for the skin are so-called ‘physical’ filters, like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Also it’s very important your SPF-protection cream to contain antioxidants, which provide additional protection for the skin (vitamins C and E, calendula or daisy extracts). Try: Germaine de Capuccini Golden Caresse SPF 30 and 50

Dermalogica: “Look for vitamin E and A because these fight against the free radicals that are produced in our skin by the harsh UV rays. You should also look for broad spectrum protection which effectively protects against UVA (unseen rays from the sun that can penetrate through the glass and present even on a cloudy day), and UVB (burning rays from the sun). The product should also contain antioxidants to protect against the infrared A radiation rays (from heat, sun, etc.) Try: Dermalogica Sheer Tint SPF20

QMS: “Ideally a product should contain UV filters and antioxidants are the most popular ingredients in sunscreens. QMS Medicosmetics have taken it one step further by adding a DNA repair complex to prevent premature aging caused by sun exposure.” Try: Cellular Sun Protection SPF 50

Eve Lom: Anne Semonin: “Ideally UV filters, antioxidants and pigment inhibitor ingredients would be present in an effective sunscreen. Our brightening cream utilises a chemical based UV filtering system with vitamin E as the source of antioxidant and brown algae as the pigment inhibitor.” Try: The Brightening Cream SPF 15 from Anne Semonin.

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Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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business tips

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Ask the Experts Our beauty experts answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Currently the eyebrow services we offer only extend to waxing or threading; however, we want to expand these and introduce a brow definition treatment. Any advice?

hen choosing a brow definition treatment make sure you choose one that offers bespoke brows so you can give clients choices – not every client can carry off thick dramatic brows. With this type of treatment, the tinting part is as important as the hair removal because this is what gives the colour and depth to the brows, which can really change the look for the client and give longevity to the treatment. Make sure the brand has good quality tinting products that allow you to mix the colours – not everyone wants just one shade of black or brown. Remember it is all about bespoke, creating unique brows tailored to the individual. With a brow definition treatment, after you have designed and created the brow with the colouring and shaping, then you achieve the definition from finishing products. I advise selecting a brand that has a good selection of finishing products that can also be offered for home use so you have the added value of retail sales on top of your service. When it comes to finishing products, packaging is important, as it has to look attractive to the client. Price point is also important; it has to be affordable for the client as the chances are she will need more than one product. Ease of use is another consideration; is the client going to be able to manage using them at home? The collection of finishing products should contain products like brow powders, brow detailer pencils, contour and concealer pencils, brow gels and good-quality brushes, applicators and tweezers. Finally, when choosing a brow definition brand, you should consider the level of training the supplier offers. Training with this type of treatment

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

is advanced training. It's not about showing the therapist how to wax, thread or even tint unless they need that; it’s more about artistry, being able to create the perfect brows for your client, and working with symmetry, as this is what true beauty is all about. The training should show you how to achieve this by using a special measuring technique so you know where and when brows should start and finish and how to create different looks, working with the baseline. When designing bespoke brows you need to ask if your client wants them rounded or arched, and whether the beginning of the brow should be square or rounded and the end of the brow tapered or blunt. There are many looks we can create. There are also celebrity looks that are now influencing client choices and we as technicians offering a bespoke brow service have to know how to achieve all of these looks for clients. This advanced training course should also cover how to work with different types of brows, from wild and bushy to over-plucked, and with different face shapes and eye shapes. Most brands will offer this training on a complimentary basis with the purchase of the kit, and you should get a half or full day of training, depending on previous experience and skill level of the therapist(s).

Claire Gittus is a fully qualified UK Beauty Therapist and the owner of Aspire Beauty Trading, which distributes cosmetic brands such as brow definition brand Mii to salons and spas across the UAE, offering an excellent level of customer care and training.

business tips

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How can I rebrand my spa without losing my business identity or alienating existing customers?

hen considering rebranding, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essential to start with a deep understanding of what is most important to your guests. The spa concept, design and tone can play a key role in attracting the clientele you want. However, contrary to popular belief, it's the clients, not the owners, that define the brand, based on their perception and experiences of and interaction with it. In order to have a smooth concept transition, you must delve into why your customers come to your establishment, and why they return. Take note of the small details; feedback, trends and behaviours. Carry out a full audit, to make it clear which ideas should be kept, introduced and omitted, and to highlight areas where improvement is needed. In some instances, it may be as simple as refining your treatment offering and level of ongoing training to give your spa an edge over your competitors. However, my experience has shown

me that a full rebranding always works best; when the spa holds onto what works, but improves cracks in the foundation and introduces innovative new treatments. I remember my first hammam 14 years ago like it was yesterday. I recall the lovely aromatic scent of the steam, the way I was cared for and the beautiful relaxation room with tea and refreshments. Guests will always remember the experience, and the success of your new identity comes down to whether you can offer an experience that differs from the rest. Shawna Morneau is the founder and managing director of Dubai-based consultancy Neaumorinc, which helps develop skincare formulations and lines for the spa and beauty industries. A trained therapist, her career has included a number of spa manager and director roles, including director of spa for the Four Seasons in Moscow and Baku, Azerbaijan.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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business tips

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I’m considering adding machine-based treatments to my spa menu. How can I be certain it’s an investment worth making?

icrocurrent machine systems are a great investment for spas considering bringing a treatment system in-house as they are very results driven, allowing clients to see an effect after just one appointment. Many of the systems on the market now also offer more than just microcurrent, so you can invest in a multi-functional system that provides an array of treatment options. As you are offering a results-driven premium spa treatment you will be able to charge more per treatment than with a traditional, more pamperingfocused, treatment. Machine-based treatments also use fewer consumable products than traditional facials, enabling you to reduce your cost per treatment. Machine systems can also work very well with different skincare lines, to help produce better skin results than by traditional treatments alone. Additionally, machine-based treatments are just as relaxing for clients as hands-on facials. To ensure a strong return on investment when introducing machine-based treatments, it’s essential

for all your staff – both therapists and front of house – to be fully acquainted with the brand. They need to have the knowledge and expertise to confidently sell the treatments and address any questions clients may have. The menu for the machine treatments should be carefully considered, making sure the treatments and pricing is tailored to the needs of your customers and to your business needs. VIP clients should be personally invited to experience the new treatments. Organise a launch night with special discounts, and with samples and demonstrations, to start selling treatment packages from day one. Dean Nathanson is managing director of CACI International, the UK-based manufacturer and supplier of noninvasive aesthetic treatment systems. CACI supplies leading spas around the world, including the Champneys group and spas at the Four Seasons, the Ritz-Carlton and the Mandarin Oriental hotel groups.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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salon profile

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Where beauty meets art Sally Soheil, the founder of SoH Art + Beauty in Dubai, reveals how this salon is uniquely fusing beauty, art and fashion What is the inspiration behind SoH Art + Beauty?

SoH was inspired by the urban art scenes of areas like East London [UK], Brooklyn and West Los Angeles [in the US] that thrive off of creative energy and implement an artistic outlook into all aspects of life. Growing up I was exposed to this creative energy and it was something that I wanted to bring to Dubai. The art scene has been budding in Dubai for quite some time, and I thought SoH would be an opportunity to further foster the arts, while also bringing a new approach to beauty.

Why do you believe the fusion between art and beauty works?

I believe there is a strong fusion between art and beauty, especially in the way that SoH approaches beauty, as it is viewed as an art form. The nail art, for example, is incredibly detailed and my team views each nail as a separate canvas; we take this same approach to every grooming service we offer at SoH. I also took the opportunity to use the salon as a functioning art gallery, so when you walk into SoH you are surrounded by creativity. The custom fashion designs we do are also taking fashion to an artistic level. SoH has established itself has a creative hub. I wanted this salon to push the boundaries of creativity within the world of beauty, making SoH a unique experience and not just a salon; SoH is a world were art and beauty become one.

What is your background in the beauty industry? I come from an artistic background, and wanted to explore the world of beauty through a creative lens.

What beauty services do you offer in the salon?

We offer everything from abstract nail art to top-ofthe-line hair colouring, creative henna designs and customised fashion. We also do waxing, and can style the hair for red carpet events, or do creative makeup with a SoH edge for a themed party. We also have variations within all these services; SoH offers high-end unique beauty treatments, and also clients have the ability to completely customise their beauty treatments,

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

making their experience at SoH one-of-a-kind and catered to their creative imagination.

What is proving your most popular treatment/ service? I would say the most popular treatment at SoH is the nail art that we offer, as it is unlike anything else you can find in the region. The nail art offered at SoH is in itself a work of art.

What brands do you use within the salon?

SoH uses a wide variety of top beauty products, incorporating only the best brands into the treatments offered at SoH. We use Essie and CND nail polish for our mani/pedis and for our hair treatments use Redken, Lycon and L’Oréal Professionnel, among others!

What are your plans for the remainder of 2015 and the beginning of 2016?

For 2015, SoH has its first birthday coming up and we plan to celebrate the one-year anniversary of SoH in style! I will be featuring an exhibit in the salon that is a collaboration of artists who have supported us from the very start, so I am really excited about that. For 2016, we plan to expand SoH even further, dipping our hands into our own fashion designs that are trademark SoH concepts. We also want to establish SoH’s presence as a platform for young, emerging talent from the region and use SoH as the starting point for future artistic endeavours and a gallery space that can share the creativity that is so widespread here in the Middle East.

What has been the feedback about the salon from clients?

The feedback from clients concerning SoH has been incredibly positive and I feel very blessed to have experienced this. SoH is just beginning and we have big plans for it, but we would not be here without our lovely clients who have supported us from the beginning and have continued to make SoH what it is today.

Visit SoH Art + Beauty at Galleria Mall, Dubai Tel: +971 4 344 41 47

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salon furniture

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Fully Furnished

Zoe Moleshead provides a guide to selecting furniture for your salon or spa

alon or spa furniture wouldn’t necessarily be classed as a hot topic in the industry, yet it remains an area of key importance. Furniture is a critical component in the creation of salon or spa’s look and feel, but more than that it is a fundamental part of the client experience. Just as a bad treatment or poor customer service will remain at the forefront of a customer’s mind, so will tatty, unhygienic looking or uncomfortable furnishings. Comfort (for staff and clients), durability, hygiene, cost, design and aesthetic, size and functionality all have a part to play in the decision-making process. The latter area is of growing importance as spas and salons seek

increasingly multi-functional furniture, for example a treatment couch or massage bed that is heated, fully adjustable and with in-built lighting and sound. Furniture, just as with other parts, of the business, is subject to trends. And this is perhaps the one area where industry experts advise caution. Opting for the latest and supposedly greatest item of furniture can prove not only a costly investment, but also something that becomes redundant a few months down the line, as that particular trend fades into the background. To help you with your furniture purchasing decisions, Professional Beauty has compiled a handy guide to some of the key items for your salon or spa.

Styling chairs Comfort is unsurprisingly of key concern here. Clients can spend a substantial amount of time sitting in them, and stylists a considerable amount of time standing behind them. Consider chairs that are well-cushioned, have lumbar support, padded armrests and footrests. Ensure that the seats are heightadjustable and made from a material that is both durable and easy to clean and maintain. Sturdiness is also important, look for well-built chairs that won’t scratch, damage, rust, squeak or generally wear and tear easily. In addition, consider how the design of the chairs will fit in with the overall aesthetics of your salon, and its size. If you opt for bigger chairs, then you may have to consider purchasing one or two fewer than you planned and vice versa.

Product spotlight

Cindarella Fauteuil Paris: There’s something of a period feel to this styling chair. Height adjustable and with armrests for the client, the chair is also fully cushioned to ensure it is comfortable for long periods spent sitting in it.

Bonvini Eclisse: Bonvini’s Eclisse is a high end Italian hydraulic gents chair, available through Madi International. The chair features a headrest, footrest and an adjustable backrest with lift and block; it is also equipped with a hair dryer holder to make life easier for the stylist.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

salon furniture

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Styling stations / trolleys The key point of the station or trolley is that it's a mobile storage unit, which means the stylist or technician has all the items they require in an organised and easy to reach space. As with other items of spa or salon furniture – durability, hygiene and aesthetics play a part in the choice – but the most important factor is functionality. Select a trolley or station that has compartments that are practical in size and will easily store the items you need it to – whether that is hair styling products or tools like flat irons and dryers, hair dyes and foils, or beauty products like waxes, nail polishes and nail kits. Consider the height of these items too – hair stylists usually stand up all day, while nail technicians sit down – so trolleys should be reflective of that. In the case of stations for nail technicians, these often double up as areas for clients to rest their feet on, or technicians to sit on during the treatment, so take that into account too.

Product spotlight

Backwash units/shampoo bowls One of the more cumbersome furniture items you may have to splash out on, backwash units or shampoo bowls not only require an ample amount of space in your salon, but they also need to be strategically located for water supply. Space may be the decisive factor in your choice of backwash unit or shampoo bowls. The former is in effect a unit comprising of a seat and the wash basin, while the latter is just the shampoo bowl, which is typically then built into a separate counter or unit, and for which you would also need to purchase separate chairs. With either option the recommendation is to select basin components that are ceramic and stainproof and good quality water mixers and water housing elements. For the seating elements, the material must also be waterproof and stain resistant. Comfort is another key factor – leaning your head back at an awkward angle for even just a few minutes is not enjoyable for clients – invest in seats with adequate neck support or the ability to recline.

Product spotlight

Cindarella Palanquin: A sleek and decidedly stylish wash unit that allows clients to fully recline, thus reducing the strain on their necks as they do. Its cushioned design further enhances client comfort as do the padded neck and calf elements. Available in a choice of colours its main frame is beech bentwood, while its rear structure is galvanized steel.

HeadBed: This patented neck protector provides an Spa Trolley: The Gharieni Spa Trolley HST is a multifunctional treatment unit that incorporates features such as a stowable facial steamer, a magnifying lamp holder, a Hot-Cabi compartment and a large storage space. It is available in different combinations.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

integrated ergonomic platform that clients can rest their necks against. Its design ensures clients can position and rest their necks correctly and comfortably whilst having their hair washed. Hygienic, rot-poof and sturdy, it fits easily onto different sinks. Available through Cindarella.

salon furniture

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Pedicure chairs

Massage beds/treatment tables

These chairs are in some ways comparable to backwash units – both generally require access to a water source and both can be configured in different ways, either as an all-in-one unit comprising the chair and wash basin or as two separate elements. For pedicure chairs integrating water sources, look for those with pipeless jet systems, as these are more hygienic. Hygiene also needs to be considered in other areas of the furniture design and the ability to easily and safely clean a pedicure chair must be taken in account, as well as its durability and comfort. Chairs that are height adjustable are a definite advantage, as are those that have the ability to rotate. Alongside the space consideration for the client’s chair, also consider where the technician will be positioned during the treatment and what her level of comfort will be.

Product spotlight

These items may also be known as couches or loungers, and while a ‘try before you buy’ policy is recommended for most furniture items, for beds/tables it is an absolute must. Most clients will spend around 60 minutes reclining on them, and any discomfort experienced will undeniably take the shine off what could have otherwise been a superb treatment. Consider the width of the bed – wide enough that clients won’t feel as though they are going to roll off, but not so wide that your therapists can’t easily reach the client. Think about how these items will be used in treatments and apply that knowledge when making your purchasing decision. These days massage beds and tables come in a wide array of options – from simple, pared down choices, designed for just one use, to all singing, all dancing models that play a pivotal role in the spa treatment itself. Sturdiness and durability are essential for this type of furniture, and hygiene and ease of cleaning are similarly paramount. Height adjustability is important too, and the option to heat or warm the bed is a plus point.

Product spotlight

Vismara Mini

Vismara Mini: Vismara’s Mini Island Evo boasts a versatile and comfortable design. Height adjustable and able to rotate 360 degrees, it has a reclining backrest and headrest and retractable manicure bowls in the armrests. The pedicure basin can also be removed. Available from Madi International.

The MLZ Quartz

The MLZ Quartz: MLZ Quartz is a high-tech treatment bed, available from Gharieni. It is filled with warm quartz sand that supports relaxation, stimulates the metabolism and helps to revitalise and enhance the overall wellness experience.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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interview

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Well Groomed

Negin Fattahi-Dasmal, founder and chief executive officer of The Grooming Company, reveals how innovation, diversification and a “no comprise” approach have yielded success What were your reasons for setting up The Grooming Company and where did it all begin? This year, The Grooming Company’s first brand, N Bar, celebrated its fifteenth birthday. At the time of launch, there really was nothing else like it so I simply had to trust my gut instinct and follow my desire to raise the standards of grooming in the region to an unprecedented level. Fortunately, I was in the right place, at the right time, with the right idea! As someone who was raised in the UAE I knew the Middle Eastern market very well and when I moved back from LA at the age of 23, I spotted an obvious gap. Women living in Dubai during the 1990s were faced with two underwhelming options that forced a compromise on experience. You either compromised on quality and service and visited a very low-end salon that offered a lot of services, delivered in a listless manner, at a very low cost, or you opted for a five-star hotel that would offer an over-the-top, spa-like experience, at an inflated price. Inspired by the nail bars I frequented in LA, I set about reinventing the concept for the region, I developed something that was previously unavailable in the Middle East – N Bar.

When and why did you decide to diversify and expand into other areas of the beauty/salon industry? N Bar’s instant success was followed by the launch of the 1847 brand in 2004, a pioneering concept not only for the region, but also globally. When N

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

Bar’s clients expressed an interest in their male counterparts experiencing manicures I realised there was a new market opportunity. JetSet, The Grooming Company’s third, highly specialised brand innovation was the region’s first “wash and blow dry” hair care concept, launched in 2005. I began working on the concept as a reaction to demand from N Bar clients who requested hair services. I wanted N Bar to retain its brand identity as a chain of nail bars, so JetSet was born.

How did you go about creating the brand identities for N Bar, 1847 and JetSet? Coming from a marketing background, I understood the importance of creating strong identities for each of our brands. I oversaw and actively participated in each stage of the development process from the creation of corporate logos, fonts, colours and the specific terminology associated with each brand to the finer details such as the fresh citrus scent you will notice in every 1847 branch or the lemons and lilies we have by every station in JetSet. Creating an entire brand from scratch is a lengthy process that involves a great deal of trial and error. As a perfectionist I was not prepared to compromise on anything, but I truly enjoyed the process. I believe our clients can tell that each and every aspect of their experience has been carefully planned and that nothing has been left to chance! For example, when I was developing the 1847 brand I didn’t just want to create another nail bar for men so 1847 is a complete grooming experience. I wanted the environment to be masculine, refined, and sophisticated. As part of my vision, I put myself in the place of the client and chose a discreet name, 1847. It is the year the safety razor was invented.

professionalbeauty.ae

interview

youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not there to watch over them, ensuring that our clients receive a superior experience. Today our HR and Training departments handle the rigorous recruitment and training process to ensure our staff reflect our impeccably high standards. We pride ourselves on working with experts in their field and offering our clients a team of highly trained, international staff.

What are the core philosophies that each of these brands share? Although each of our brands is unique they share one common factor. They are all governed by a pioneering formula of absolute perfection, stringent hygiene standards, in-house trained specialists, premium products and a â&#x20AC;&#x153;no compromiseâ&#x20AC;? approach.

What do you believe sets you apart from your competitors in the respective markets (nails, hair and male grooming)? I believe our success in the grooming industry stems from our professionalism, ability to identify market niches and customer needs, and our no-compromise approach. The clients that first visited N Bar Palm Strip 15 years ago still return today as they know that they will be greeted with the same level of service, professionalism and affordability they have come to expect. My focus was always on ensuring my brands maintained their impeccably high standards and were not diluted with the many other imitators that appeared in the region. As innovators in our industry, we are always the first to bring our clientele something new and relevant; the 1847 brand is testament to this. While N Bar was the first of its kind in the Middle East, 1847 was one of the first premium lounges for men in the world.

How pivotal is the staff across the various salons? Our staff is part of our brand DNA. Therefore, employing and retaining high-quality staff is at the heart of our business. From day one it has always been a matter of quality over quantity. I personally took the time to train and mentor our staff at the start to familiarise them with the N Bar philosophy. In order to be different, I had to inspire them and help them to appreciate the importance of stringent hygiene, perfect polish application and a professional and friendly demeanour. By ensuring our staff have pride in the company, its vision and what they do, it creates the difference between them not only doing things your way but the continuation of this when

Did you face any memorable challenges setting up The Grooming Company? One of the initial challenges I faced was training the staff. I was working with individuals who had been in their industry for many years with defined practices, and set ways of working that were not necessarily the best. At first they were sceptical so in order to put my vision into practice I needed to create a mental shift and open them up to new ways of thinking by educating them in the importance of hygiene, practice and attitude.

What about the highlights or success stories of The Grooming Company? I am proud to say that since its inception The Grooming Company has become a key player in the region's grooming industry, a fact that is attested by the many accolades the company has received to date.

What are your plans for The Grooming Company over the next 12 months? 2015 will see several new N Bar branches opening throughout Dubai. With our brands excelling in the UAE there are now aggressive plans to expand to new regions; next on the horizon is our first international franchise, N Bar Tehran, which is set to open in the next few months.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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digital marketing

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Work smart, not hard This month, Namita Ramani explains the business benefits of marketing automation

hen I speak with spa owners and managers, there is one constant concern that they bring up: how difficult it is to find the time to execute an effective marketing strategy. As someone that is running a spa, it’s hard to find the time to look into the multiple facets of marketing and really make them work for you. Often, there are a number of other things that require immediate attention, and you are often found running to where the fire is. That’s where the concept of marketing automation comes in and, really, it can change the way your business interacts with customers and start generating leads. Marketing automation is all about working smart. You don’t have to spend hours every day on your marketing - set it up one time and use the concept of funnels to regularly communicate with people who connect with you online. Not only does this free up your time to focus on more important things, it also increases the chances of a lead turning into an actual customer. So what does marketing automation entail? It’s important to look at all your main marketing pillars, and see the best way to automate them. The four most important aspects that you must consider:

Blogs

These form the foundation of a marketing campaign that engages and builds long-term relationships with potential customers. By creating an effective blog strategy, you ensure that you are reaching relevant people that are actually interested in your services and showing them what you have to offer with an upsell within your content.

Automate it: Contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to have a new article up every day in order to see positive effects. We usually recommend two blogs a month, which are then rotated and distributed through your various channels of communication. Which means, you can sit down and write a number

of articles in one go and then schedule them to be published over the upcoming months.

Social Media

Social Media is where you essentially interact with potential customers and share with them your latest updates, offers, blogs and more. The most common struggle most spa owners and managers face is finding the time to update their various social media channels everyday - however, this doesn’t have to be the case. There are a number of tools that allow you to automate your social media posting so that your page is always updated and is constantly engaging your audience.

Automate it:

Create a bulk number of posts in one go, and then distribute this content to various channels by scheduling it on tools such as Buffer.

Email Marketing

Your email marketing funnel is probably one of the most important funnels to look at. After you acquire new leads and followers through your blogs and social media, it’s time to start converting them to actual customers through regular communication. It’s important to create an email marketing funnel that regularly communicates with these contacts and sends them offers at consistent intervals.

Automate it:

After coming up with an effective strategy, it is possible to automate such email marketing funnels using special software. This one time set up then sends the same series of emails to any new lead that joins your list. This increases the chances of that lead turning into an actual customer. We use this for a lot of spa clients, and it shows amazing results! Marketing automation not only saves your time and resources but organises your marketing in a strategic and targeted manner that focuses on increasing the actual customers that are generated.

Namita Ramani is a digital marketing expert, with a number of successful brands. In the last 11 years, she has helped more than 300 companies reach their target audiences and convert prospects into customers, using digital channels like Google PPC and SEO campaigns, social media and email marketing to generate leads via client’s websites. To know more about marketing automation, set up a strategy session with her by emailing namita@salonycreations.com

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

GCC

For your beauty, hair and spa business November 2014

For your beauty, hair and spa business

Getting noticed

How to wow potential employers

Scent of success

Aromatherapy to boost your business

GCC

Lights, camera, action! Creating a successful hair shoot

art attack

Top nails techs get creative in our nail art special

Read the latest issue online at www.professionalbeauty.ae To guarantee the print edition to your door each month, subscribe for just AED125 per year. A year subscription guarantees 10 printed issues + the buyers guide.

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interview

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Mineral miracle

Zoe Moleshead learns more about Omorovicza, a luxury line of products created from Budapest’s amazing thermal waters and set to make waves in the UAE

kincare companies are founded for many reasons, some find their roots in the pursuit of tackling a specific skincare complaint; others emerge as an offshoot or expansion to an existing business empire, but few companies will share such a unique story of foundation as Hungarian brand Omorovicza. Combining heritage, the earth’s finest ingredients, Nobel Prize winners and even romance, the story of Omorovicza’s origins is almost as intriguing as the impressive collection of products and treatments it offers. Husband and wife Stephen and Margaret de Heinrich de Omorovicza are the founders of Omorovicza and very clearly the driving force behind its growing global success. It was during the early stages of their relationship that Hungarian businessman Stephen introduced American diplomat Margaret to one of Budapest’s many treasures – an amazing thermal spa. The spa was a source of great pride for Stephen as it had once been in his family for generations. Margaret describes the spa as beautiful and “one of the oldest sources of water in Hungary”. The spa’s beauty was not lost on Margaret and the wonderful effect its water had on her skin did not go unnoticed either. “I had always had very troubled skin, from an early age I was prescribed very strong medication for acne, and what was remarkable for me was from the very first time I was exposed to these waters was the difference that

they made to my skin,” she explains.

A brand is born Discovering more about the spa from Stephen, Margaret was delighted to learn that its rejuvenating waters were first uncovered 2,000 years earlier by the Romans, who noted the healing and regenerative properties of the water on their war-weary soldiers. Deciding to delve deeper into the unique properties of the spa’s thermal waters, the couple enlisted the help of a Nobel Prize winning laboratory in Hungary and it was here that the Omorovicza brand really began to take shape. The laboratory was able to explain that the earth’s crust is thinner in Budapest than in any other city in the world. This, combined with a number of other factors means that the unusually high concentration of minerals are more effectively absorbed into Budapest’s thermal waters. The laboratory also developed a patented process called Hydro-Mineral Transference™ that changes the cellular composition of the mineral-rich water.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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This transformation is the key to ensuring that the water’s restorative qualities and mineral-rich benefits are not lost in the production process. “Pretty much without exception, a minimum of 60 per cent of any skincare product in the world is comprised of water. In most skincare brands, if not all of them, the water is inert. Except in Omorovicza. There is no added benefit [to it]; it is a filler, it holds everything together,” explains Margaret. “What we have done with Omorovicza is that we have taken this wonderful mineral-rich thermal healing water and patented a process with this Nobel Prize winning laboratory whereby we change the cellular composition of the water to make it more bioavailable. The way in which we do that is by putting it through a process of bio-fermentation, which is the only natural way to achieve cellular transformation. This allows us to expose the minerals to the surface, the epidermis, and then we go one step deeper and we wrap around a liposome which serves as a vector that brings the minerals to the deepest layers of the skin,” she continues.

Perfect partners The end result is a collection of award-winning products and treatments that are noted for their anti-ageing benefits, as well as their capabilities to protect, repair and improve the texture, tone and pigmentation of the skin. Omorovicza's product range has three core collections – Moor Mud, Gold and Blue Diamond – as well as a collection of hydromineral products. It is around these three ranges that a series of face and body treatments have been developed, each with a specific aim in mind. The Gold Facial, for instance, is geared towards antiageing and the reduction of wrinkles; whilst the Blue Diamond Facial works on a cellular level to boost the skin’s fitness. “As you get older some of your skin cells start to fall asleep and they don’t behave as they did when they were younger, so these products [and treatment] have been designed to awaken sleeping cells and teach them to behave as they did in their youth,” says Margaret. As a skincare range that is steeped in both history and ground-breaking research, it’s no surprise

interview

to discover that Omorovicza has a very selective approach when its comes to those that it partners and works with. Margaret and Stephen take a handson approach to the business and believe in working closely with all their partners. “Omorovicza is 100 per cent family-owned and Stephen and I are so involved with everything and are really about selective distribution. Our goal is not to be everywhere, our goal is to find a handful of the best properties, the best spa managers at a luxury level, and to work closely with them on a long-term basis to share something unique with their clientele,” explains Margaret. It’s an approach that is clearly working as Omorovicza has tie-ups with a number of leading luxury hotels chains, including Four Seasons, St Regis, Oberoi Hotels and Resorts and the Waldorf Astoria. Omorovicza’s ability to work closely with its partners also enables it to develop bespoke treatments for the spas, something that Margaret says is very much a current trend. “What we are finding now is our clients all want bespoke treatments; they all want something that their clients have not experienced before." In the Middle East, Margaret reveals, Omorovicza has just been confirmed to provide the First Class Travel Bag for Etihad Airways and she says they are very much looking forward to developing longterm business relationships across the region. “We feel really lucky that we are partnering with The Product House locally and that we meet with them all the time. They are a great partner for us, not only to provide a great level of local support but also to guide, given what our long-term vision for the company is,” Margaret says.

To learn more, call The Product House +971 4 379 19 66 Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

hair column

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How may I help?

This month, Maria Dowling provides top tips on perfect telephone etiquette

our front desk staff is the link between you and your customer so you should consider this to be one of the most important roles in a salon or spa. Telephone etiquette is something that, done right, can give an amazing impression of your business, right from the word go. But if it’s done wrong, you can lose a customer even before they set foot through the door. Here are my “printable” tips that you can hand to your staff on getting telephone etiquette right:

A smile is contagious

When you smile on the phone, people know. I really believe this. Your voice sounds happier and more positive, and you sound, well, nicer. Your tone has to be natural, not robotic. Helpful and empathetic but not sarcastic. And if you are nice on the phone, regardless of the outcome for the client, they walk away knowing you have done everything you can to help them. Smiles are contagious, so more than likely they finish the call smiling too!

Use a caller ID

This is a must-have for salons with busy telephone lines. If our front desk person is on the phone and someone is trying to get through, they can identify who has called and call them back immediately. Clients now expect good salons to know who they are when they call up, and answer them by name. Every customer needs to feel like a VIP and if they feel special – in the words of Rihanna “like the only girl in the world” – they’re going to stay loyal to you. There’s nothing worse than having to give your name and contact details to a salon that you have been going to for years.

Everyone hates being on hold

We all hate being put on hold, don’t we? Sometimes it is a necessity but even if it’s only for a few minutes, it often still feels like we’ve been waiting an age. How many of us have given up and hung up before achieving what we set out to do? If it’s inevitable and you have to consult a colleague, always ask if you can place the client on hold before doing it. Make sure you always have your appointment book/system in front of you so you know the team’s availability and can access it quickly.

Put personality into it

Listen to your customer

Calm the complainers

Juggling your callers

When it comes to answering the phone it’s a good idea to have a script and memorise it. But there’s nothing worse than someone who sounds like a computer so do put your own spin on the script. Practice, practice, practice until you’re so comfortable with it that you can add a bit of personality to it, without even thinking. If you’re bored, you will sound indifferent and uninterested. Paying attention to what the caller is saying is essential. You should listen first and identify the key points the caller has made. You also shouldn’t be asking questions more than once as this can be really annoying for the customer. Sometimes the salon can be pretty noisy so inform the customer that you’re having trouble hearing and you can go to a quieter area before returning to the call. We all have them…the people who love to complain. We’ve touched on this in previous columns but complaints can be frustrating and disheartening if they’re unwarranted. Let the customer speak and tell you as much about their issue as possible. Listen, listen, listen. Try to help as much as you can and if you cant, speak to the stylist involved. The result is only what is physically achievable. If there are no appointments, we can’t clear the book, but we can suggest the client goes on a waiting list and keep them updated.

A client is chatty and that’s ok, but you’ve got another call coming through. How do you subtly interrupt and get off the phone? Keep control of the call at all times and bring the conversation back to its purpose, which is pinning her down to a date and time for her appointment. Give her options but not too many as that will just confuse her and potentially mean a longer call. It’s important to chat and be pleasant with the clients while still being able to answer other calls.

Go on, you can do it!

Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 42 25. Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

treatment news

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Naturally good Three very different facials, a nail and a brow treatment, using natural products, are tested this month

OF+T Manicure and Pedicure at N Bar The lowdown: I like my regular mani/pedi sessions and enjoy perusing the nail polish selection to decide which shade fits my mood or plans for the week, so I was interested to hear about the introduction of a new nail polish brand in N Bar salons. What intrigued me most about Only Fingers And Toes, or OF+T as it is also known, is not just its billing as a premium or luxury nail polish, but its toxin-free credentials. OF+T polishes are created without the use of DBP, toluene, formaldehyde and formaldehyde resin, camphor and Phthalic acid. Interestingly the brand’s commitment to producing a healthier or more environmentally conscious product isn’t limited to the nail polish formula itself, but also to its packaging which is made from forestry-registered paper and is recyclable. PB says: After entering N Bar I’m introduced to my two friendly therapists and guided to the OF+T collection to choose my colour. The sophisticated palette of the range immediately strikes me, luxurious

shades of gold, silver, grey and green are contrasted by bold pops of red and pink. I opt for a shimmery pink shade called Mizz King – a soft, subtle colour but with its glittery base it’s a perfect day-to-night option. My therapists are attentive and thoughtful throughout the treatment, regularly checking with me to see if the cut, shape and length of my nails are to my liking. And while the application of the OF+T polish is just the same as with any other, on leaving the salon and in the following days I’m impressed by many factors. Firstly, it dried very quickly, it also felt decidedly lightweight, my nails didn’t feel laden down with layer after layer of polish – and yet they were still smooth and contoured. The longevity of polish was another plus point. Normally, four or five days after application my nails have generally started to chip or show signs of wear and tear, but not so with the OF+T polish. After such a positive first impression, my only dilemma now is which shade to choose next time I visit the salon! Tested by: Zoe Moleshead

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

treatment news

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Anana Lepa Facial, Jiva Spa, Taj Dubai

Elemis Pro Collagen Quartz Lift Facial at Cleopatra’s Spa The lowdown:

The lowdown: Jiva Spa derives its treatment philosophy from traditional healing wisdom, taking a holistic approach to wellness and wellbeing, so its spa menu is packed with treatments that use all kinds of aromatic and natural ingredients. This fragrant and flavoursome feel to the specially-designed spa range, makes choosing a treatment something of a challenge, but I opt for an Anana Lepa facial, which is based upon family skincare recipes passed on from generations of mother to daughter and using “all natural ingredients straight from the kitchen”.

Utilising mineral-rich products from the Pro-Collagen range, of which I am a fan, I plump for this anti-ageing facial and eye treatment due to the fact that it is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by up to 94 per cent, and improve skin firmness by up to 57 per cent after just one treatment! As with all Elemis treatments, my experience starts with a foot cleansing routine using reflexology points. My face is then cleansed, toned and warmed with a facial compress before a massage which focuses on using lifting and draining techniques. I fall in love with the Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm with camomile which smells divine and feels wonderful on my skin. The treatment includes lot of blissful massage as well as exfoliation, extraction, masks and an application of the Quartz Lifting Serum that’s specific to this facial.

PB says:

I am seriously impressed by the service at

Cleopatra’s Spa and my therapist’s skills and knowledge are exemplary. To begin with, my consultation is very thorough without being intrusive, and I feel she is actually listening to me, rather than just ticking off boxes. When I explain that I have just finished a course of medical treatment, she suggests adaptations to my facial and is sensitive and sympathetic putting me immediately at ease. Through the treatment she explains the benefits of all the products used and the Elemis philosophy. After the treatment, I

PB says: As we begin the treatment, my therapist shows

feel completely rejuvenated and the results on my skin

me five small ceramic dishes that contain the cleansers,

are instantaneous. I am so impressed by my therapist’s

exfoliators, masks and creams that will form the various

knowledge that I place faith in her recommendations and

stages of my treatment. The hand-crafted look of the

invest in some of the products used in my facial, including

ceramic dishes immediately evokes a sense of home, as

the lovely cleanser. Since the facial, and use of the Elemis

does the natural colours and textures of their contents. Aloe

products, my skin is certainly more radiant, softer and

vera gel and rosewater are among the natural ingredients

less dehydrated than it’s been for some years! In the week

used to make these creams and the therapist remarks

following the treatment one or two people ask what I’ve

that this is a good treatment for sensitive skin or pregnant

been doing to improve my skin.

women. The therapist begins by cleansing my skin and

my wrinkles have been reduced by 94 per cent but I’m

I couldn’t say whether

then exfoliating it. To aid in the cleansing process, she uses

definitely delighted with the results!

a steamer to fully open my pores and release any excess

Tested by: Fiona Vlemmiks

dirt or oil. Combined with the fragrance of the exfoliating cream, the steam serves not just to cleanse my skin, but also my respiratory system. I feel I am breathing cleaner and with more ease. Once the therapist has carried out any necessary extractions, she applies a mask to my face to infuse goodness back into it; the aroma is particularly pleasing. A gentle face and neck massage follows and then a final application of cream to calm and soothe my skin. The treatment seems to be over in mere minutes, though it has in fact been an hour. I feel delightfully relaxed and my skin looks refreshed and cleansed.

Tested by: Zoe Moleshead

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

treatment news

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London Lash and Brow Treatment by Heaven Skincare The lowdown: The just launched London Lash and Brow treatment evolved as a solution to a number of problems. Facialist to the stars, and creator of Heaven Skincare, Deborah Mitchell tells me that she came up with the concept in response to her vast experience colouring lashes and brows. “I used to offer a ‘secret ingredient’ to my facials that kept clients coming back every fortnight – an eyebrow shape and tint. I had a special way of shaping the brows that people loved, but I always wanted to find a solution for gaps in the eyebrows and I always struggled to cover grey hair quickly.

I treat many celebrities and the British Royal Family so I have to be at the top of my game, so I started to wonder how I could create the perfect brows and lashes. “The other thing was that my clients kept asking for a quick eyebrow tint but they had to wait 24 hours for a patch test (due to UK safety regulations). So I got together with my training manager and we developed a tint that is plant-derived, organic and contains no peroxide, so that it can be used without a patch test.” Mitchell explains that the tint has several skin benefits and that clients are reporting that it also acts like a growth

enhancement serum on the brows. The tint develops quickly and covers grey without any damage to the lash or brow. It comes in four shades and coats the hair, rather than sinking into it, giving a fuller look.

PB says:

The consultation process

is very thorough and Mitchell explains that she does not go for a “one shape suits all” approach, instead fashioning a bespoke brow to suit the individual. The treatment is quick and pain-free and the shape is perfect for my face. The colour looks very natural and my new brows give me an instant lift. I love my new look!

Tested by: Fiona Vlemmiks

Blue Diamond Facial at Nysa Spa, Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights The lowdown: Based on Hungarian brand Omorovicza’s Blue Diamond range, this facial is intended to restore youthful behaviour to skin cells. It is designed to rejuvenate and recondition the skin and to enhance its elasticity and firmness. The facial combines the vital ingredients of Blue Diamond’s range, which include diamond peptides and copper amino acid, with its patented Hydro Mineral Transference delivery system to illuminate and awaken the skin.

turns ever so slightly tingly, but this soon passes. Entering into the massage phase of the treatment I have high expectations, Omorovicza

co-founder

Margaret

Heinrich de Omorovicza had informed me in an earlier interview (see page 55) that their massage technique “is unique and memorable”, and my experience found this to be absolutely true. Using a lifting technique and strokes that at times felt wave-like, at others as though my skin was being drummed and pinched, my therapist delivered what I can only describe as one of the most incredible massages I have

PB says:

From the very outset of the

experienced. Whilst my description of the

treatment I feel in safe hands; my therapist

technique may sound uncomfortable, it was

reveals she is a qualified dermatologist and

anything but. Relaxing and rejuvenating are

her understanding of both skincare and

instead the words that spring to mind; I

the product range is immediately obvious.

could feel the blood rushing to my face and

The treatment begins with a refreshing

the effect was as though my face had had

foot scrub and wash before I move across

a workout. As my skin drank in a soothing

to the massage bed for the facial. The

mask in final stages of the treatment, my

facial is a multi-layered treatment that

arms were exfoliated, lightly massaged

incorporates cleansing, exfoliation, a peel,

and cleansed. Once the treatment was

serum application, massage and a mask

complete, my skin looked and felt clean,

for my face, neck and décolleté. Between

fresh,

many of the stages I’m also spritzed with

combined with the therapist’s expertise and

Omorovicza’s Queen of Hungary Mist

the spa’s luxurious surroundings, it made

radiant

and

plumped.

When

(one of its most popular products). During

for an impressive treatment experience.

the peel stage, my typically sensitive skin

Tested by: Zoe Moleshead

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

breast cancer awareness

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Pinktober events Once again, our industry came out in force to support breast cancer awareness with fun-filled events

Le Chat and Curve provide Hope Visitors to Curves salon will be treated to day of pampering with 10 per cent of profits going to breast cancer charities. The “Hope” event on October 10 will be held in collaboration with Le Chat beauty supplies and the proceeds will be donated to the BurJuman Safe and Sound campaign. Activities will include live demonstrations on hair, skin and nails, free beauty consultations, skincare advice, raffles, light refreshments and give-aways. In keeping with the pink theme, pink nail polish, gel polish, hair dye, face masks and make-up will be used.

Charitable spa trio

Spa experts the Product House will be donating 10 per cent of the proceeds from selected products purchased in October to a breast cancer charity. The products in question, from three luxury skincare line, are Anne Semonin’s 100 % Active Contour Serum, Voya’s Angelicus Serratus Body Oil and Kerstin Florian’s Fuß Balm.

SensAsia gets in the pink this October SensAsia is once again supporting the global and local drive to raise awareness of breast cancer by inviting clients try In The Pink packages throughout October. The UAE’s popular spa chain has put together a super-softening and sweet-smelling treatment and a percentage of profits will be donated directly to local non-profit organisation, Friends of Cancer. The package includes a Balinese massage, Tickled Pink SensPolish and Even Pinker SensWrap. Even Pinker uses rosehip tea, white clay and cranberry to cleanse, purify and nourish. In addition to In The Pink, SensAsia has created a bespoke and limited edition adaptation of its best-selling Signature Blend of oils for Breast Cancer Awareness. The oil is an uplifting mix of lemongrass, geranium and lavender and the packaging bears a pink ribbon for October.

Pink ribbon packaging for RevitaLash UAE

Once again Go’shay Trading will support the pink cause with the introduction of the 2015 limited edition packaging. Ten per cent of the profits from the sales of the Limited Edition Pink Ribbon RevitaLash® Advanced will go towards research and education initiatives during the month of October. David Go’shay, chief executive officer, of Go’shay Trading, which distributes with RevitaLash UAE, a devout supporter of non-profit breast cancer nitiatives, said “We feel extremely fortunate we can be in a position to support breast cancer research as an ongoing commitment not just during the spotlight of October Breast Cancer Awareness Month, but throughout the year. “The magnitude of this commitment touches our company each day in the business decisions we make and the sales and marketing efforts we share with our strong network of business partners and loyal brand followers. Together, we can make a difference in lives touched by this terrible disease to bring us one step closer to a cure.”

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

breast cancer awarness

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Think pink

Check out our pick of “pinkalicious” products designed to support breast cancer charities this month Tweezerman Tweezerman introduces the limited edition Precision in Pink Neon Great Grip Lash Curler for the 2015 Breast Cancer Awareness Precision in Pink Campaign. This year’s Breast Cancer Awareness beauty tool is the padded version of Tweezerman’s top selling Classic Lash Curler featuring cushioned handles for a slip resistant grip and a uniquely designed silicone lash pad that guarantees comfort. A portion of proceeds from the sale of each limited edition Precision in Pink Neon Great Grip Lash Curler will be donated to global breast cancer research.

Oribe The Oribe Pink Dry Texturizing Spray is a limited edition, pink version of its most popular product (one of which, the company reveals, is sold every three seconds). The limited edition product was created in partnership with the National Breast Cancer Foundation, which increases breast cancer awareness for women all around the world. The invisible dry hair spray builds volume and texture. Patented polymers absorb oil at the roots, leaving just-styled hair for days.

Olivia Garden The limited edition breast cancer awareness Olivia Garden Brushes, distributed by Liane K, have a ceramic barrel which warms up quickly and retains heat, reducing drying time and providing longevity to hairstyles. The tourmaline ion hydrates the hair cuticle, adding more shine to the hair and eliminating frizz and flyaway hair. The product also contains nano-silver with anti-bacterial protection and a  unique bristle design. A portion of the proceeds from each sale will go towards Breast Cancer Research.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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breast cancer awarness

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Eminence The Eminence Sweet Red Rose Whip Moisturizer hydrates and rejuvenates devitalised complexions. Formulated with red rose petals and rose extract, it enriches the skin with nutrients and antioxidants, supporting health and resilience. Its Biocomplex formula features vitamins A, C and E, coenzyme Q10 and alpha lipoic acid to combat visible signs of premature ageing and repair damaged cells, promoting a youthful, revitalised appearance. Eminence Organic Skin Care Products are exclusively distributed in the UAE and Middle East region by Beautylicious. The company is pledging US$5 / AED18 from each purchase to the Breast Cancer Foundation.

Aromatherapy Associates Due to the huge success of the Inner Strength Bath and Shower Oil, Aromatherapy Associates is adding a new product to the range, the Inner Strength Body Oil. The bath and shower oil was created by president and co-founder of Aromatherapy Associates Geraldine Howard while undergoing ground breaking cancer treatment. This Body Oil is designed to support, emotionally and physically, through challenging times. It contains rose, clary sage, frankincense and cardamom. Ten per cent of the proceeds from the sale of Inner Strength Body Oil will be given to Defence Against Cancer.

Jane Iredale The limited edition Smell the Roses Hydration Spray was developed exclusively for Living Beyond Breast Cancer, which receives 100 per cent of profits from sales. A facial spritz with organic rose damascena flower water, the product provides an excellent skin tonic and cleanses the skin without disturbing its natural protective shield. The rose damascena flower oil and extracts penetrate into deep layers of the skin nourishing, tightening, cleansing and detoxifying while increasing blood circulation. The rose fragrance also refreshes and uplifts the mood.

Professional Beauty GCC October 2015

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diary dates

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Diary dates

November 2-4 Middle East Natural & Organic Products Expo - MENOPE Dubai International Convention & Exhibition Centre, Dubai, UAE Bringing together natural, organic and eco-friendly products, this show has a showcase that features natural, organic and ethical beauty and spa products. Alternative medicines, natural therapy and food & beverages can also be found at this show. www.naturalproductme.com November 7-8 The Makeup Show Chicago Bridgeport Art Center, Chicago, US The Makeup Show series hits Chicago and provides professional make-up artists with opportunities to participate in workshops, seminars and to enhance their creative and business skills. www.themakeupshow.com/chicago/ November 7-8 Cosmetica Berlin Messe Berlin, Berlin, Germany This event is designed primarily for beauty professionals and presents products including nail, cosmetic, skincare and spa items, alongside exclusive workshops, nail competitions, shows and awards. www.cosmetica.de/cosmetica-berlin/

November 11-13 Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2015, this event will feature over 2,000 exhibitors from over 100 countries. There will be an area dedicated to new launch beauty products and other special events are also planned for the three-day expo. www.cosmoprof-asia.com/en-us/ November 12-15 The World of Style Sibexpocentre OJSC Exhibition Complex, Irkutsk, Russia Focusing on nails, make-up, hair and other beauty products and equipment, this expo will also feature seminars, masterclasses and competitions. www.sibexpo.ru/eng/ November 12-14 Style & Beauty 2015 Exhibition Complex, Odessa Sea Port, Odessa, Ukraine The 17th edition of this event, the show will feature exhibitors of cosmetics, hair, nail, face, body products and equipment. Alongside this, there will be masterclasses and competitions. expohome.com.ua/en/exhibiton/internationalforum-style-beauty

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