Professional Beauty GCC - June 2016 by Professional Beauty GCC

June 2016

STAR QUALITY What it takes to be a nail competition winner

Flower power! Aveda finally arrives in the UAE

Acne attack How to treat acne on older skin

allinthemind Int rod ucing mind fulness in your spa

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June 2016

• AVEDA • MINDFULNESS ADULT ACNE • NAILS

STAR QUALITY What it takes to be a nail comp winner

er! Flower pow in the UAE

Acne attack skin

How to treat acne on

older

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Aveda finally arrives

JUNE 2016

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NEWS

All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa

Expats settling in for the long haul

igures gathered by finance comparison site compareit4me.com indicate that more expats are looking to stay in the UAE, for the long-term. Speculation that the UAE’s expat bubble was about to burst came after last year’s survey revealed that 54 per cent of UAE residents “wouldn’t consider buying property in the UAE, as they weren’t sure how long they were going to stay”. This year’s survey, however, shows a U-turn in thinking with just 36 per cent of expats saying that they would consider buying in the UAE.

Younes launches Spamiles to boost GCC business Spamiles is an innovative, online platform, which will connect spas in the GCC with local and international spa and beauty suppliers. It is the brainchild of founder Pierre Younes, a leading figure in the international spa and wellness industry since 1992.

Jon Richards, chief executive officer at compareit4me.com, said, “In March last year all the major newspapers were reporting that more than half of expats in the UAE were considering leaving due to the high cost of living. “Just one year later, we are happy to announce that the number of people who are interested in buying property is on the rise. It seems attitudes are changing and fears and insecurities about the future are lifting.” Figures are significant for the spa and beauty industry as expats make up a large proportion of the market.

Younes, has worked in the fields of distribution, training and consultancy, liaising closely with doctors, physiotherapists and aestheticians to promote further education. He told Professional Beauty that his experience has taught him the value of time, and the need for a more productive pattern and method of working. The growing demand for online business inspired him create the first B2B e-commerce platform in the Middle East.

Treston launches light therapy bar Skin expert Rebecca Treston has introduced express LED light treatments to the UAE. Popular Stateside and the firm focus of pop-up shops in Harrod’s and Selfridge’s in London, UK, this cutting-edge protocol is now available at Euromed in Dubai.

“For the first time in the Middle East, suppliers and buyers will share a ‘trade-only’ E-Commerce solution that will support their business and boost productivity. “It is my aim to help the industry expand and to create new business opportunities.” The user-friendly website features professional beauty and spa products, equipment, training information and meeting-set ups. For more information visit www. spamiles.com

The treatments are designed for those short on time but in need of a skin boost and are based on the technology of four clinically proven wavelengths of UV-free LED lights that are either used individually or combined simultaneously to break down irregular skin cell structure, eradicate bacteria and promote cellular renewal, leading to brighter, clearer and rejuvenated skin.  The quick “Skin-Lights” menu on offer at Rebecca Treston at Euromed comprises four facials which last around 20 minutes and require no downtime.

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New skin cancer preventing gene discovered

new sunscreen gene that prevents skin cancer has been discovered by researchers at The University of Southern California. The breakthrough could lead to the development of a drug that targets the “UV radiation resistance associated gene” which suppresses skin tumours such as melanoma, a type of cancer that develops in the cells that produce melanin. Researchers gave a UV shot to cells carrying the normal UVresistant gene and others carrying defective copies. After 24 hours, the normal versions had repaired themselves of more than 50 per cent of the UV damage while the defective samples fixed less than 20 per cent. Professor Chengyu Liang, of the University of Southern California, said: "If we understand how this UV-resistant gene functions and the processes by which cells repair

themselves after ultraviolet damage, then we could find targets for drugs to revert a misguided mechanism back to normal conditions. “People who have the mutated UVresistant gene or low levels of the UVresistant gene may be at higher risk of melanoma or other skin cancers, especially if they go sunbathing or tanning frequently. Our study suggests the UV-resistant gene may serve as a biomarker for skin cancer prevention." The researchers used data from 340 melanoma patients who participated in The Cancer Genome Atlas, a project which catalogues genetic mutations responsible for cancer. In March Professional Beauty reported on how skin cancer rates were expected to rise in the UAE due to the longer life spans and changing dress patterns of the local residents, coupled with the country’s large number of expatriate residents with whom sunbathing is a popular pastime.

Orly introduces breathable colour to UAE

Offering the strength-boosting benefits of a nail treatment with the added benefit of colour, the innovative Breathable Treatment and Color was introduced at a recent Dubai exhibition, and will be available in autumn. Similar to contact lens technology, Breathable Treatment + Color allows oxygen and hydration to pass through,

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

promoting nail growth, increasing nail thickness and helping heal damaged nails, while giving the colour of a nail polish. Adhesion promoters and shine additives eliminate the need for a basecoat and topcoat and allow clients who hate to have polish-free nails the chance for nail rejuvenation without forgoing nail colour. Nadia Deering, vice president of Orly International sales said: “Style never goes out of fashion. Orly gives women the opportunity to express their style in a way that’s all their own. We are always scouring the planet for the latest trends in color, texture and ingredients. Speaking on Orly’s presence in the Middle East Deering added, “EPIX by Orly was one product that caught interest quick deliberately. Its combination of being between gel

and nail polish drew interest and a sense of practicality, it wears as if its gel but is applied and removed as normal nail polish. Not only did that boost the service that ladies can enjoy from Orly but it also secured the intensity of colour that this fantastic nail technology can offer. She also gave Professional Beauty the heads up on what will be hot in nails next year. “For Spring 2017, we’re looking forward to new saturated version of pastels – soft and feminine, yet making an eyecatching statement,” she revealed. For Summer 2017, we’re reliving our youths with passionate, vibrant takes on primal shades that will pop in any getaway destination (and definitely in LA)!” Breathable Treatment and Color will be available in 18 shades from September 2016.

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Medical wellness focus for GWS

he Global Wellness Summit’s 2016 agenda will have a strong focus on the unique integrative medical wellness offerings of Europe. Delegates to the 10th anniversary Summit in Tyrol, Austria in October will hear from numerous pioneers in medical wellness, said Susie Ellis, GWS chair and chief executive officer.

“Europe has a long and extremely successful history of developing life-changing wellness destinations that harness the best of modern and holistic medical approaches, creating programs so effective that clients return year after year,” said Ellis. “Decades of positive results can’t be ignored – and the entire spa and wellness industry can learn a

tremendous amount from these leaders. “Hosting the Summit in the heartland of medical wellness gives us the unique ability to attract people from the very top of this field.” This year’s Global Wellness Summit will be held on October 17 to 19 at KitzKongress, Kitzbühel in Tyrol, Austria.

LPG launches serum as regional CEO predicts rise in demand for non-surgical treatments The French beauty brand has launched the latest LPG Endermologie Cellular Regeneration Treatment in combination with the brand new Antiaging Renewal Serum. The treatment and product treats the signs of ageing with complex ingredients that stimulate the natural cellular activity of the skin. Ludovic Loffreda, chief executive officer of LPG Bella Concept, said:

Shangri-La appoints Hewitt Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts has appointed Todd Hewitt to the role of corporate director of Spa. From Shangri-La’s headquarters in Hong Kong, Hewitt will oversee the group’s CHI, The Spa and The Spa brands, and all health clubs in Shangri-La and Kerry properties worldwide. Hewitt is one of 18 board members of the International SPA Association Foundation (ISPA). Hewitt joins Shangri-La from Four Seasons Hotel & Resorts where he held several leadership positions and was most recently regional spa director overseeing ten extensive spas in the Americas.

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“In the UAE, non-surgical procedures are becoming popular for both men and women. That is why we constantly communicate our non-invasive and all-natural treatment, which is safe and effective for all.” The serum’s formula allows it to penetrate to the heart of the fibroblast cells and deliver the ingredients directly. Thus, it helps reactivate the production of the collagen and elastin leaving the skin healthy and glowing from within.

News in pictures The scene at the recent Beautyworld Middle East exhibition in May attended by beauty companies from the GCC and beyond

The Cosmetica stand with visitors

The team from Eideal

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Ask the experts Our beauty professionals answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business How can we give longevity to clients’ hair colour? To protect hair colour and make it last longer, we always recommend the following: use a post colour shampoo, use a post colour treatment, and recommend the correct at home haircare range for your client. These steps will ensure your clients' colour lasts between appointments. If you are using the L’Oréal Professionnel products then you could use Pro-Classic colour shampoo after Majirel and Dia, and INOA post colour shampoo after INOA hair colour. After shampooing you should recommend a post colour treatment (for L’Oréal Professionnel you should use one shot of Power Dose colour from Serie Expert on towel dried hair and leave it for three minutes) and of course you should always recommend the right home care range for coloured hair (at L’Oréal Professionnel we have the Vitamino Color range, which consists of shampoo, masque and a leave-in treatment, and for clients with sensitive hair colours,

like ash or red reflects, we recommend using the Vitamino Color Delicate Care shampoo). With these kind of treatments your clients’ hair colour will remain radiant and shiny from colour to colour.

Naim Nahed is the regional education manager for L’Oréal Professionnel. He has 20 years' experience in hairdressing, including 10 years as a creative director, and loves inspiring fellow hairdressers to achieve their best.

How can I minimise the risk of reaction after a waxing treatment?

It's really important that clients receive good aftercare advice following a wax to ensure that they know how to look after their skin. Skin reactions will vary from person to person but if your client is a first-time waxer, has lots of coarse hair or is someone who has been shaving or using hair-removal creams, then their first treatment may be more reactive.

Immediately after treatment your focus should be on keeping the skin cool, so use a suitable soothing product like a refreshing gel. For the best results, exfoliation should be carried out prior to treatment to lift the hairs and remove dead skin. You should ensure clients understand the need to let the skin settle for a few days after treatment before they do any post-waxing exfoliation. Gentle exfoliation, using either a brush, exfoliating wash cloth or body scrub two to three times a week is the best way to keep skin soft and supple. The combination of the mechanical and chemical exfoliation will help refine skin, reduce blemishes and minimise the potential risk of ingrowing hairs. In addition to verbal aftercare, written advice in the form of post-waxing guidelines is helpful, especially for male clients who often don't know how to look after freshly waxed skin and may not want to discuss aftercare with their friends or colleagues.

Jack Dunn is a waxing expert and brand ambassador for Perron Rigot UK, a brand also available in the UAE. He also runs The Jack Dunn Waxing School.

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Spotlight on Lasers The latest operator guidelines in the UAE explained

ositioned as a lunchtime aesthetics treatments that will rejuvenate, restore and remove, lasers procedures are swift, non-invasive and often pain-free. This doesn’t mean that anyone can operate them however. Unless trained, your nail therapist is certainly not a suitable candidate to handle lasers, and even your dermatologist may not be upto-date with laser technology, as regular accredited training is a must-have – not merely a “niceto-have” when it comes to this sophisticated equipment. Consider this. Lasers are relatively new in the medical and cosmetic field, and most medical professionals won’t have studied their myriad uses at university. Since lasers and other energybased devices such as IPLs are medical grade tools with potential risks and side effects that only qualified and trained professionals know how to manage, they must be used judiciously. In order to preserve patient safety, the leading training authority in the field, the Institute of Medical Aesthetics (IMA), jointly with Dubai Health Authority (DHA) have devised a comprehensive set of guidelines that all laser operators must observe in order to legally perform

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aesthetic laser treatments such as hair reduction and skin rejuvenation. Servane Collette, Director at IMA explains, “In addition to a medical degree and professional license specifically in lasers, professionals should also have ‘proof’ of education and training for laser and IPL machines through an approved training centre.” This measure has been applauded by industry leaders and follows international standards benefiting patients. The Institute of Medical Aesthetics (IMA) is a training hub in the heart of Dubai turning participants into aesthetic medicine experts. Since its inception in 2012, it has welcomed hundreds of professionals, from newly qualified beauty therapists to eminent plastic surgeons. Their Laser Therapist Training Program in Dubai meets all necessary training requirements to apply for a laser license. Servane notes that while this technology is seemingly simple to operate with its user-friendly digital settings, “Lasers are the result of advanced scientific research and principles that its operator must master. We are dedicated to offering the most innovative, safest hands-on skills transfer to those who want to include lasers in their practice.”

What does this mean for beauty and healthcare professionals? Highly in demand by both employers and the public, she has noticed how through IMA’s monthly accredited courses, “those from varied medical and aesthetic sectors have added a rewarding and financially attractive skill to their profiles in real time”. By having the opportunity to gain internationally recognised training to develop a career both in Dubai and valuable skills to take back overseas too. “We have welcomed professionals from over 20 countries that appreciate the convenience of accessing this globally recognised training in a location that is easy to reach given the geographical and time-zone advantages of the UAE,” she adds.

What the beauty and medical professionals say… The Doctor "The science has progressed to a point that we can now help/ treat most aesthetic skin conditions with lasers. These devices are incredible tools for us as professionals and for the patients. I encourage all my colleagues, including dermatologists, to get properly trained so they can optimize results and reduce side effects" Dr Azaiba Kara, Laser Trainer, IMA, The Nurse IMA helped me to get a better job, I was a facial therapist by profession and wanted to upgrade into laser technician. I took the accredited laser course and got certified. Now I am very confident in working with almost all laser machines both for hair removal and aesthetic. Thanks to my IMA family, I finally made my dream come true to become a certified laser technician. Maria Cristina Pelayo, Laser technician, Royal Aesthetica Polyclinic (Dubai)

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I’m a freelance make-up artist and have started doing bridal make-up. How can I make this profitable? The wedding market can be an exceptionally lucrative one for make-up artists and by being smart in your approach it can become a core part of your offering. Determining how much to charge for your services is key. While you don’t want to underprice yourself, it’s important to keep your rates competitive, so local competitor research is essential. Charge a fixed fee that includes the trial and wedding day make-up, and when taking your services mobile make sure your prices include any travel costs you incur. Value-added treatment packages, including make-up, nails and tanning, can help maximise revenue and introduce other services you offer. Package deals for the whole wedding party are another way to make the most of each appointment; consider offering tiered options with varying values. As well as boosting earnings, this will promote your services to potential new clients. For example, bridesmaids at one wedding may be next year’s brides. While word of mouth is effective once you’re up and running, the modern bride will often look online to find and compare suppliers. Create a website and Facebook page to showcase your experience and include an image gallery to give brides an idea of your make-up style. You could also team up with other providers in the industry, such as photographers and hairdressers, and work together to offer brides the full package. And don’t forget to retail. Your bride will need essentials such as pressed powder and lipstick to touch up during the day, so cost these products into the price of your package. Kirstie Bower is sales manager for Mii Cosmetics at Gerrard International and helped to launch the brand in 2011.

What touches can I add to pedicures to create intensive summer foot treatments? The correct products used in the right way can make all the difference in transforming the feet. My best advice for treatments is to make sure feet are always filed when the skin is dry and the reasons for this are three-fold. Firstly, bathing a foot masks the areas that need to be treated; you simply can’t see the dry skin or calluses in the same way. Secondly, if a foot is prone to cracks in the skin then bathing it will weaken the tissues, making the crack more likely to open up. Thirdly, products do not adhere as well to the skin when it’s wet, so will not be as effective. Intensive moisturisation is essential to a superior pedicure as feet go through the ageing process in exactly the same way as the face. The skin thins, the subcutaneous fat is lost and sweat glands reduce in effectiveness, so it’s important to reintroduce moisture into the skin on the feet. You wouldn’t consider exfoliating your face without following up with a moisturiser and the same rule applies to feet. Remember that skin on the feet is 12 times thicker than the rest of the body, which is why a body lotion just won’t work. So seek out products that are specifically designed for the feet, such as my Fabulous Feet range. Margaret Dabbs is a fully trained podiatrist and the founder and chief executive of foot care brand Margaret Dabbs London. She also has a number of clinics in the UK and UAE.

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35 How do I chose the right salon management software for my business?

I want my therapists to feel confident in offering cancer-safe treatments to clients. How can I do that? Until recently, many spas were hesitant to offer treatments to clients suffering with or healing from cancer because, unfortunately, therapists can lack training in safety procedures and more often than not, lack the confidence to capably massage clients without inducing discomfort. Now there is an emphasis on the need for therapists to not only reach the highest levels of understanding and skills required, but to believe in their own capabilities to deliver an effective and comforting massage to clients, working around any areas of concern. And that self-confidence really can be learned and built upon. You have to encourage your therapists to be committed in applying services to clients who are suffering with or recovering from cancer and to help them relax. A great way to generate excitement and momentum for cancer awareness in your business is to train as a whole team. It not only builds a sense of camaraderie but helps embed the training into your normal business processes. If everyone is trained equally on what to do and when to refer, the support of the team will provide the vital confidence for an exceptional standard of treatment. Clare Anderson is managing director of Shared Beauty Secrets, a distributor of Lava Shells. She has been instrumental in building the Lava Shells brand internationally.

Selecting the right software can be stressful as there’s so much choice out there, from cloud-based systems that require a consistent internet connection to those that are embedded into a computer and don’t rely on connectivity. The first thing you need to ask yourself is what you are looking to change about how you run your salon. When I ask potential clients this question most of them say they want to book appointments quickly and have a better understanding of their financial status, but you also need to think about how the system can change the way you complete your everyday tasks for the better. List the things you think this new software might be able to help you with and then order your thoughts into two lists – “must-haves” and “would likes”. This will help you understand what’s important to your business, but don’t forget to think about which hardware the software will be running on as this is a crucial factor. Budget is also important. If you’re coming from a paper-based system to software then your expenditure will have been very minimal up until now so you may be shocked to hear the costs of salon management systems, but it’s worth it. If you’ve got a system in place that you’ve had for many years and haven’t looked around for a better deal, now may be the time for change.

Sharn Necchi is the client relationship manager at salon software provider Salon Partner. She is responsible for new client set-up, customer support and technical advice.

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Flower power As the much-anticipated Aveda flagship store opens in Dubai, Professional Beauty finds out why it’s been worth the wait

oved globally for its botanically-based professional hair, skin and body care products, Aveda, was founded by award-winning hairdresser, Horst Rechelbacher, in 1978 in the USA, with the vision to bring beauty professionals botanical products that would not only be good for them, but for their clients, the earth and its communities. Inspired by Ayurveda, the 5,000 year-old traditional Indian system of healing and medicine, Aveda takes a holistic approach to beauty where products, rituals and services care for clients from scalp-to-soul. It’s no surprise then that UAE residents are delighting in the news that Aveda has finally opened its flagship Lifestyle Salon and Spa in The Galleria grand launch, in May, the brand’s first foray in the Middle East. At the grand launch, Antoinette Beenders, senior vice president for Aveda Global Creative gave Professional Beauty the inside scoop on what the launch will mean to Dubai’s beauty market.

Why has it taken you so long to enter this market? I am personally absolutely delighted to be here in Dubai, it’s taken a while as we like to do things in the right way, taking time to find the right location, the right partnerships, and we wanted to make sure we have the best team available. We’ve a large international team working here from all over the world. All stylists have been trained to the highest standard thanks to our Aveda network.

What do you believe you can offer the UAE market that we don’t have already? At Aveda, we aren’t just a brand, we are a lifestyle – we take our inspiration from ancient Ayurveda and use modern science combined with professional authority. In terms of the specific hair needs of the market, UAE women often have quite dry hair and as our products are based on essential oils, they are perfect for this type of hair.

What treatments will you offer? We have many bespoke treatments on offer. With Aveda it’s all about what the customer wants; all treatments are tailor-made for that particular client. In our Dubai location we offer free “rituals”. This means anyone can come in and have a free hand massage or neck and shoulder massage. In addition to this, we have high-tech “scalp cameras” that can analyse the scalp in the salon. This system can then prescribe the correct products or treatments to help specific scalp problems – all at no extra charge. The first year’s goal is really to create more brand.

What is your goal for the first year of operation? awareness. In this market, I feel that Aveda is almost like our best-kept secret, and we are excited to share that secret with Dubai residents. We want as many people as possible to experience our services and treatments. PB

Tell us more about the team behind the Dubai venture Currently, we’ve 24 team members and this is still growing. Training for our stylists has lasted four months and we have been working with stylists and educators from all over the world who have travelled here to help train our team. We have seven different levels of stylists and an Arabic-speaking front of house team.

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Jeremy McCarthy, group director of spa at Mandarin Oriental and author of The Psychology of Spas and Wellbeing, on what the mindfulness catchphrase really means

y favourite definition of mindfulness comes from Jon Kabat-Zinn, maybe one of the most influential mindfulness teachers today. He says: “Mindfulness means paying attention in a particular way; on purpose, in the present moment, and non-judgmentally.” This zen-like connection to the present is not easy for the modern monkey mind to achieve, but there are, it seems, great benefits to doing so. Proponents of mindfulness claim that it helps them relieve anxiety, remain focused

“Spas give people somewhere to experience silence, enjoy the absence of technology and find time for personal reflection”

on important goals, find more creative solutions to problems and establish more harmonious relationships with other people. For most people, mindfulness is a skill that must be developed through some kind of practice, most commonly meditation. Meditation is the practice of intentional awareness of a certain point of focus (examples include a mantra, the breath, or observing one’s thoughts, non-judgmentally, as they come and go). In a sense, meditation is akin to exercise for your mindfulness muscles. With practice, participants become more aware of where their attention is drawn, and are better able to maintain their focus with consciousness and intention.

Mindfulness: what it’s not Contrary to what some new age gurus might tell you, mindfulness is not our natural state. Our minds are programmed to work on autopilot, without too much higher awareness required. Mindfulness is not necessarily an ideal state for every situation because there are plenty of times when we benefit from being able to tune out or operate without too much reflection. We have an amazing ability to do g

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41 certain things without thinking, which allows us to listen to recorded books while we drive our car, talk to our kids and spouse while getting dressed, or multi-task at work. We also seem to be programmed to spend a fair bit of time analysing and reliving our past or predicting and anticipating our future, rather than being in the present. With mindfulness becoming very trendy, often billed as “present-moment awareness”, it’s easy to forget that we also benefit from thinking about the past, which gives us an opportunity to learn from our mistakes and experiences, and the future, which gives us a chance to consider long-term goals, analyse risks, and plan ahead.

Why mindfulness matters Nevertheless, mindfulness is becoming progressively more important to human wellbeing. Change is happening increasingly fast and the accelerating advances in human knowledge, technology and culture mean the world of the future is likely to look very different from the world of our ancestors. However, our genetic programming has evolved based on what worked well for our ancestors. Mindfulness helps us use our minds more effectively, identifying faulty genetic programmes that no longer serve us in the modern world.

Many of our automatic responses don’t serve us today. If we follow our instincts, we eat high-calorie foods, coddle our children, hoard material possessions and become obsessed with “productivity” – all things that for millennia have helped us survive, but that today can become liabilities rather than strengths.

What spas can do Spas are havens of silence, reflection and contemplation: people think of them as places for both physical transformation and relaxation. But the biggest benefit spas can offer is for the mind. Spas give people somewhere to experience silence, enjoy the absence of technology and find time for personal reflection. g

“Mindfulness means paying attention in a particular way; on purpose, in the present moment, and non-judgmentally”

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Steps spas can take to encourage mindfulness include: Schedule time for quiet reflection: At the Mandarin Oriental spas, we always encourage guests to arrive early to cleanse themselves of the outside world in our heat and water experiences and spend a few moments before their treatment practising the art of sitting and doing nothing.

Turn down the volume: Last December, the spas at Mandarin Oriental held a Silent Night, an evening where guests were invited to enjoy the spa in silence (no music and no talking). In our hyperurbanised world of non-stop content, silence is becoming a scarcity, but it’s so important for connecting mindfully to our values.

Provide spaces for meditative activities: Many of our spas have mind-body studios where yoga or meditation classes can be offered and also feature quiet tea lounges and relaxation areas. Many of our hotels offer yoga mats and/or meditation cushions in the rooms, to help guests continue their mindfulness practices while travelling.

Incorporate mindful moments: At Mandarin Oriental, we start each treatment by encouraging the guest to take three deep breaths while we present the aromatherapy blend for their treatment. Reminding people to pause during the day and focus on their breath is a great introduction to mindfulness.

Downtime is critical to developing mindfulness skills, but it’s being squeezed out of our modern lifestyle. Today is the first time in human history that we can be productive every waking moment. Unlike our ancestors, most of us no longer need to take long walks in search of food and water; we have eliminated lengthy and laborious meal preparation and we don’t even have to wait in line at a bank without having our mobile office and entertainment centre right at our fingertips. With technology allowing every second in our

schedule to be filled, we have lost those moments we might previously have spent in silent reflection. For this reason, I believe the mindfulness trend is only in its infancy. And I see spas as a boon to modern life, giving people time and space to enjoy silence and a break from technology and non-stop productivity. Spas give us a chance to reconnect to our minds and our true selves. This might seem simple but in a rapidly changing world, it could be just the gift we need to reach our full potential. PB

Jeremy McCarthy is group director of spa for the Mandarin Oriental hotel group. He is also the author of The Psychology of Spas & Wellbeing, covering positive psychology and holistic wellness. You can find more of his writing on his blog: http://psychologyofwellbeing.com

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The business of make-up Eryca Freemantle shares tips on how to succeed in the make-up industry

or those who missed my last column, I am a global beauty/ make-up educator, Professional Beauty ambassador and international magazine contributor. In this article, I am sharing some of my personal and business tips g

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for all those wishing to pursue a career in the make-up industry. Looking back, I had to learn the hard way so it is only fitting that I pass on my expertise and knowledge to those of you who are just starting out.

Have a clear vision It is imperative to have a clear vision as to what you want to achieve from your career in the makeup industry. Many think that applying make-up all day, everyday will take you to the top, but there are lots of paths you can take to achieve your goals. Find out what you enjoy the most about the make-up industry; is it applying make-up or education? First you need to establish where you want to go, then you have to visualise yourself in the space. Along my journey I have made some mistakes simply because my vision wasn’t clear to me. I actually got caught up in many other people’s journeys and visions and didn’t stick to my own. Don’t let anyone influence you with their journey, it will only take you much longer to get to where you want to go.

Beyond the brush As I touched on in my first point, we all tend to want make-up brushes permanently in our hands, especially when we start out. That changed for

me when I saw others excelling in the industry because they had business acumen or great business partners and advice. Becoming a brand ambassador, teaching or education are other areas of the make-up industry that can be just as rewarding. Research these different areas and step out of your comfort zone.

Know your brand story Having a story differentiates you from the next make-up artist. It allows you to bring something different to the table, which may inspire others to hire you. I got into the make-up industry because I was involved in a car accident. I lost all my hair and couldn’t find any makeup to cover the scars on my dark skin so I created my own product. Now my experience is part of my brand story. People want to hear a story, yours defines who you are, don’t be afraid to tell it. PB

For further conversations with Eryca, whether you are a make-up or skincare brand or interested in her courses, please email info@erycafreemantle.com or visit www.erycafreemantle.com T: @erycafreemantle

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

business trends

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAIRDRESSER

Everyday

COUTURE OPULENCE AND NATURAL BEAUTY SHINE IN THIS COLLECTION

INTERNATIONAL TREASURE

STYLE ADVISORS

FIVE REASONS TO VISIT SALON INTERNATIONAL

EASY STEPS TO GETTING THE COLOUR LOOK

Note from the Editor

ou only have to look at the international fashion catwalks, celebrities on the red carpet or consumers on the high street to notice the trend for embracing natural texture. Whether it is soft waves gently pulled into a dishevelled bun at the nape, coiled curls framing the face or textured lengths hanging loose over the shoulders, it's all about the textured look. Check out our step by steps on 55 to create some of this season's key styles. And offering your clients the right style advice, along with the correct products to get the look, will confirm

your position as the hair expert. You have a duty of care to ensure your client's cut and colour is in tip top condition and looks its best whenever possible and that starts with the right consultation, advice and aftercare. This issue we showcase some stunning imagery to inspire you and ensure your clients are on-trend for the months to come. Thanks, Ruth

June 2016

Everyday COUTURE OPULENCE AND NATURAL BEAUTY SHINE WITH THIS COLLECTION FROM GOLD CLASS

June 2016

“Manageable lengths with added volume gives a sense of healthy hair. We created natural looking waves either for an effortless day or for evening glamour, showing the versatility of hair extensions.” INANCH

HAIR: INANCH LONDON FOR GOLD CLASS MAKE-UP: JOURDAN WALKER CLOTHES: PIA MICHI LONDON PHOTOGRAPHS: ISABELLA LOMBARDINI

June 2016

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advertorial

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H2E2 crafts a new masterpiece Fady Tawfik, head of business operations at H2E2, explains how a inimitable concept has helped one beauty establishment achieve distinction in Dubai’s competitive market

n Dubai’s extremely competitive and constantly evolving beauty and wellbeing market it is a challenge to find a truly new concept. Any new salon or spa, or even a clinic, needs to work diligently on formulating a never-seen experience for its customers. H2E2 has recently been appointed to lead a new, luxurious ladies beauty salon and spa, due to open by end of 2016. Although we are managing all aspects of the project, from pre to post operations, H2E2 realised at an early stage that we needed to come up with an original and ground-breaking concept for the project to suceed.

After several rounds of brain storming, over a multitude of coffees, we finally crafted a unique and innovative concept that perfectly blends sustainabiiity with luxury, creating an alive eco-system inside the salon and spa. For this, we drew inspiration from the natural roots of beauty on our beloved earth; “plants”. Using this as a starting point, we decided to bring nature indoors and make it visible and reachable for the customer. What can else be more life enriching than being surrounded by nature’s beauty, seeing and smelling it, while you yourself are being beautified? With the right placement, the vibrant eco-system will take the customer on a tranquil journey that showcases the true beauty of nature and all its richness. Let’s imagine all this alongside a range of services that covers all ladies’ beauty requirements as well as luxurious product and brands that satisfy all their needs and a hand-picked, specialised team that delivers the best treatments as well as service. It’s a true beauty haven in Dubai and we are very proud to be part of it. PB For more infromation about concept design, implementation or adoption contact Maria Axinte, head of consultancy, maria@h2e2.net

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

June 2016

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June 2016

hair opinion

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Summer slow down Following on from her column last month, Maria Dowling gives more reasons why summer needn’t be a drag

t’s long, it’s laborious, it feels like it goes on forever. As I mentioned last month, summer in the region can be a real headache for residents and businesses that rely on those lucky individuals who decamp to cooler climes for July and August. So, as we head into summer this month, here are more tips to help you survive.

Know your clients

If your clients are mostly non-working mums, chances are they will be travelling during July and August. If they celebrate the holy month of Ramadan, then perhaps they will be travelling, or spending time with their families instead of visiting a salon. Knowing your client is key, and this will help you plan for any dip in trade. Post summer, clients are desperate for a bit of TLC when they return from their break. They’re going to need you, but so are those who stayed during summer! The trick is to make rebookings for travelling clients before they go away.

Clean up and brush up

If you have a quieter period, use it to give the salon a full spring clean. Touch up any chipped paintwork, replace damaged furniture and tidy up your storeroom. In the run up to summer, I start making a list of things that need to be renewed, replaced or retouched so we can fully start afresh when the clients return.

Take a look at how you look

Summer is a good time for the team to take a look at everything from uniforms to how we meet and greet the clients. A brush up on training at least once a year is essential so why not use the quieter summer period? How we look is a big part of what we do. Our hair, our clothes and how we present ourselves. Hair needs to look amazing at all times and the summer is a great time to go for a new style or colour.

Keep the morale going; be creative!

It can be hard to keep the team motivated during the quieter periods. There is always that temptation of sitting around and relaxing, but I am a great believer in keeping the staff busy at all times. Summer is a good time for creativity. I give my team a project to work on new styles, try out new techniques and prepare mood boards for the forthcoming season. Have a great summer and see you in September! PB Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call +971 4 345 42 25.

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

business trends

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

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business skills

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Leading the way Designed to offer unique business support, the EIDEAL-Santi leadership programme is exclusively available for EIDEAL’s VIP salon partners. Susie Santiago explains the benefits

Susie Santiago and Haysam Eid

How did the programme evolve?

What exactly will it entail?

I was giving a keynote speech on business innovation to hairdressers from around the world at the L’Oréal International Congress in Cannes, France, in September last year and Haysam Eid, the managing director of EIDEAL was in the audience. He requested to meet afterwards to talk about EIDEAL and business development opportunities. As a pioneering brand, Haysam wanted to create something really different to benefit the number of EIDEAL’s esteemed VIP salon partners. The Santi Leadership Programme, which I created over ten years ago, for hairdressers, spa and beauty owners, is an award-winning business leadership and development programme. This seemed to be an ideal leadership strategy to offer these special clients.

The EIDEAL-Santi Leadership Programme lasts a year and commences with an initial launch seminar in Dubai. This is followed by five video mentoring sessions, then one-to-one mentoring in Dubai, which takes place mid-way through the year. Five more video sessions ensue, and there is a final seminar in Dubai almost a year later. The whole programme is supported with winning business strategies contained in more than 10 supporting manuals. Subjects covered throughout the year include financial wellbeing, efficiency, marketing, recruiting, communication strategies, leadership and much more.

What are the benefits?

A business is nothing without two very important groups of people; employees and customers. Creating “raving fans” from both stakeholder groups is the ultimate challenge. It takes incredible passion and determination to lead a team of professionals to deliver consistency of excellent client care, appointment after appointment.  This programme is committed to inspiring new energy through its mentoring and insightful leadership strategies, so that owners can do just that and go back to their businesses with renewed confidence, armed with great information to continue to develop their businesses to the next level of profitable success

EIDEAL wishes to give back to the hairdressing industry, while also creating a sense of community. The programme has been proven to help owners and their executive teams develop new leadership skills offering inspirational business building strategies. It offers exclusive mentoring and support to build upon already successful salon brands. The best always strive for better and recognise that learning is a continual process. This programme gives them the opportunity to further work “on” their business as well as “in” it, giving them time, mentoring inspiration, support and a unique networking opportunity with other leading salon owners creating a “circle of excellence” within the salon community in the region.

Ultimately, what do you hope to achieve through this programme?

Are there any more benefits to participating in the programme? As a part of the EIDEAL commitment to quality and excellence, those VIP salons that attend the programme will be eligible to enter the EIDEAL Business Person of the Year Award. The award will be announced at a special event in May 2017 bringing accolades for winners and, of course, more recognition for the business that they lead. PB Susie Santiago is a globally esteemed leadership consultant. Email her at: susie@santi-santi.com. For more information on Eidel call +971 4 259 46 65.

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

business trends

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

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nails

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Star quality This year’s Professional Beauty Nail Competition saw Cherryl Lalog Llaneta, from The Nail Spa, gain the accolade of Overall Winner after shining in the nail art categories. She tells Professional Beauty what it takes to be a winner How long have you been a nail technician for?

Which products do you like to work with?

How did you prepare for the competition?

I worked as a nail technician for six years in my home country, and for almost eight years now at The Nail Spa (TNS). Recently, I was invited to join “artbar”, a new concept at House of Enspa, which is a design house for nails. I did most of my training at TNS.

I really like acrylic liquid and powder, Brisa gel and Bio Sculpture gel because I can get more creative with these than with basic polish, shaping and sculpting 3D designs.

What advice would you give to other nail technicians about competing?

Why did you decide to enter the Professional Beauty Nail Competition?

I did research on the theme of the nail art competition beforehand. I watched the Cinderella cartoon, tested out different ideas, and kept experimenting. We also relied on mood boards given to us by our creative director Sehr Karim.

That’s how we prepare all our collections at the artbar, from a source of inspiration. My very important advice to them is to do their work with excellence and to put their heart into it, to be yourself, do the best that you can do. Be inspired, don’t be scared! Just stay positive, believe in yourself but stay humble and be supportive.

I really enjoy What do you doing nail enjoy most about extensions working with and nail art. nails?

I wanted to prove something to myself and I thought entering might help me build my self-confidence.

I was really happy! Winning for me is not just about getting the award or a trophy. This meant a lot for my self-growth, helping me to be better, to know myself, to make me realise my capabilities. It gives me a deep sense of achievement. How did you feel when you learned that you were the overall winner?

Will you be entering again next year?

Yes I will and I will be always ready to lead! Competitions mean learning and giving. For me I can be the student on one hand and on the other side can play the role of being a teacher.

The next Professional Beauty Nail Competition will take place at the Professional Beauty GCC exhibition in February 2017. Entry details will be announced in the magazine nearer the time. .

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

business trends

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

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tried and tested

Good enough to eat A raw, all-natural facial brings back skin vibrancy in our treatment review this month

This month we tried... Raw Facial at Kure Beauty & Spa

Kure Beauty & Spa

The lowdown: The concept behind the spa is that it uses only organic or natural products and its Raw Facial adheres to this idea wholeheartedly, with raw vegetables and fruit enzymes providing the foundation for the products used in the treatment. The facial, which can be customised to meet the needs of the individual, is designed to refresh and revive the skin. PB says: My treatment begins with a consultation with my therapist, we discuss my skin and any concerns I have and she also takes a closer look to identify any other underlying issues there might be. She explains to me that there are five key areas to address â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an oily t-zone, dehydration in other areas, black and whiteheads, minor pigmentation and fine lines around the lips and eyes. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m slightly alarmed, though not entirely surprised by the list she reels off, but she reassures me by saying my skin has great elasticity and that only five concerns is actually good! She then explains that she will use papaya as the core ingredient in many of the stages of the treatment. A papaya and yoghurt mix will help to cleanse and hydrate my skin, while a papaya and sugar combination will provide exfoliation. Utilising products from the John Masters Organics range, she then goes through a

process of removing my make-up and cleansing my skin using a Rose Foaming Wash, followed by the papaya and yoghurt mix. The next stage involves the papaya and sugar exfoliation, and also a Jojoba Ginseng Exfoliating Face Cleanser, which contains small jojoba beads to slough away any dead skin. A steamer is then placed over my face to fully open my pores before the therapist uses an extractor to remove any lingering blackheads. A cucumber mask is applied on my face and neck to help with the hydration process and to infuse goodness back into my skin, before a series of serums, eye gels, reconstructors and sunscreens are applied. The papaya is easily identifiable from its aroma, while the cucumber mask feels and smells very much like blended cucumber. With the facial complete, my skin looks fresh, bright and noticeably clearer, and it maintains this vibrancy for days to come. Tested by: Zoe Moleshead

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

product news

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Shimmer and shine QMS g Clients can achieve beach-ready bodies with the Pro-Body Exfoliator from QMS. An invigorating body gel formulated with micro-fine exfoliating particles, the product gently dissolves dead skin cells and contains the anti-oxidant rich malachite to protect the skin, together with energising essential oils to refresh the senses. The exfoliator not only eliminates dry, rough skin leaving it smooth, soft and supple, it will in addition stimulate the metabolism, leaving the skin looking healthy and toned. Call +971 4 379 19 66

Soleil f The Après Soleil Exotic Shimmer Body Oil is a luxurious dry body oil that can be applied daily for essential skin-softening benefits. With a hint of shimmer and a touch of bronze, the product is formulated with 100 per cent natural ingredients to help calm and relieve irritated skin. The oil fortifies skin with powerful anti-oxidant and anti-ageing benefits using rosehip seed oil to regenerate the skin and help reduce scars and wrinkles, Argan oil to provide tissue healing, sun-protection and disinfection benefits, green tea leaf extract to neutralise free radicals and rosemary leaf extract to help correct age spots, tone and tighten. The product can be worn on top of sunscreen for a glowing body finish. Call +971 4 379 19 66

Tangle Teezer g A perfect accessory to any beach bag, the Tangle Teezer is an industry leader and many professional’s first choice of detangling hairbrush. With its unique and compact design, the bristles painlessly detangle hair, while the memory flex technology ensures swift and gentle results. The brush can fit discreetly into the smallest of beach bags ready to untangle hair after a dip in the ocean or swimming pool and is vailable in a range of colours including this Lulu Guinness design client so can matching their Tangle Teezer to their bikini or beach bag. Call + 971 5 5105 79 93

OCÓO f Refreshing “beauty lifestyle” drink OCÓO is designed to give radiant skin and hair from within. Each 250ml bottle contains a blend of anti-oxidative pomegranate and acai, which is rich in omega fatty acids and anthocyanin, as well as aronia, which boosts the highest oxygen radical absorbance capacity value of all the “power berries”. In addition, OCÓO contains a balanced dose of the beauty boosting vitamins and minerals biotin, zinc, selenium, copper and iodine as well as vitamins B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, C and E. The drink has just 43 calories per bottle, with no added sugar. Call +971 4 423 36 65

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

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Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

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launch analysis

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

diary dates

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Diary dates 6-7 JULY IN-COSMETICS KOREA COEX Exhibition Centre, Seoul, South Korea This show features ingredients, fragrance, lab equipment, testing and regulatory exhibitors and cosmetic manufacturers from both the local and international marketplace. Seminars and a business matching programme also run in parallel to the exhibition. www.in-cosmeticskorea.com 6-8 JULY H&B EXPO Toyko Big Sight, Japan As its name suggests, this expo is targeted towards the health and beauty sector. Product presentations will showcase hair, skincare, fragrance, cosmetics, and organic and health innovations. Networking opportunities will be available to visitors attending the event. www.hb-expo.jp/en/

16-17 JULY INTERNATIONAL MAKE-UP ARTIST TRADE SHOW Vancouver Convention Centre West, Canada Launched in 2010, IMATS Vancouver is dedicated to inspiring make-up stars of the future and uniting them with industry leaders. Featuring make-up artists and schools from the worlds of TV and film, the event offers a number of educational classes, alongside competitions and awards. www.imats.net/2016-vancouver 18-21 JULY COSMEBEAUTÉ ASIA Putra World Trade Centre, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Billed as one of the area’s largest beauty shows, this exhibition focuses on the beauty, hair, nail, cosmetics and spa sectors. Now in its 12th year, it also features hair awards and a nail competition. cosmobeauteasia.com

Professional Beauty GCC June 2016

24-26 JULY COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas, USA Building on the success of last year’s show, which saw 1,015 exhibitors from 39 countries come together to display brand and product launches, this year’s event will once again feature product innovations and networking opportunities for those in the fields of raw materials, packaging, perfumery and cosmetics, natural health, beauty, spa, hair and nails. www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com 28-29 AUGUST PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JOHANNESBURG Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg, South Africa The largest beauty trade show in Africa features more than 200 exhibitors who will be showcasing the latest product launches, innovations and developments. Exhibitors are drawn from both the local and international markets, and from all sectors of the beauty market. www.probeauty.co.za

Don’t miss... 8-9 AUGUST PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DELHI Pragati Maidan, Mathura Road, New Delhi, India Delhi takes centre stage for the Professional Beauty India team in August, as its third exhibition of the year takes place. Now in its fifth year, the Delhi show brings together local and international trade professionals from salons and spas with suppliers and distributors across the sector. Product launches and presentations are combined with live beauty demonstrations for this exciting event. www.professionalbeauty.in

SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae