Professional Beauty GCC - May 2018

May 2018

For your beauty, hair and spa business ‫ هي مجلة متخصصة يف قطاع الجامل والشعر والسبا‬Professional Beauty GCC ‫مجلة‬

GCC

&

Colour CARE

light The

direction

We explore the benefits of adding laser and IPL treatments to your existing menu OFC PBGCC MAY18.indd 3

Stepping

up

Interviews with the winners of the Eideal Santi Leadership Programme

‫لغة‬ ‫ن بال بية‬ ‫اآل لعر‬ ‫ا‬

The newest launches to help you colour your clients hair whilst protecting it

11/04/2018 12:48

BIOTEC machine available on a 3 month, interest -free payment plan

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Authorized distributor Luxuria Middle East

HDS Tower, Office No. 1103, Cluster F | Jumeirah Lake Towers P.O. BOX 36430 | Dubai, UAE | T: +971 4 430 8321 pa.ceooffice@luxuriatrading.com elemismiddleeast

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P S A M M O

C O N C E P T

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Pure beach feeling

Perfect lying comfort

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Editor’s Comment

4 We live in a world where we constantly need to diversify our offering to accommodate and attract new clients. We have to be ahead of the latest trends and innovations, which are set to help boost our business for the financial year ahead. With this in mind, we explore the benefits of adding non-invasive treatments to your existing menu. This year, we have seen a rise in laser and IPL treatments because they offer excellent margins and are results driven which is great for client retention. Turn to page 24 where we also speak to industry expert Rebecca Treston on why these treatments are so impactful.

Raising standards within our industry is so important to us. This is why we regularly publish and create content to help educate you and your staff. For this reason we have decided to partner with the Eideal Santi Leadership Programme – an educational platform which is in its second year and is spearheaded by industry expert Susie Santiago. On page 37 we talk to last year’s joint-winners Ruksher Mailk, founder, Pastels Salon and Valerie Reynaert, managing director of Sisters Beauty Lounge about the importance of joining this year-long programme and what they’ve learned from it.

Maintaining great condition in coloured hair is always a challenge – especially here in sunnier climates. On page 40 we reveal the newest launches in the market to help you colour your clients hair whilst protecting it. Our Hairdressers Journal section also features two fashionshoots from Wella, Denman and Kevin.Murphy, where the latest cut and colour techniques are showcased from page 43.

“Vegan” continues to be a beauty buzzword, and because of this we explore the top cruelty-free beauty and spa products on the market.

Turn to page 55 where we reveal our top picks.

Editor |

@pro_beautygcc

Published by and (C) 2017 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City.

321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC News editor: Emma Baron emma@professionalbeauty.ae

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The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.

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Regulars 7 News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty 20 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 35 Ask the experts Advice on attracting new clients and the right talent 56 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training

Hairdressers Journal 43 Dichotomy Opposites attract with diverse shapes and textures 49 Back to school A lesson on how to make creative and on-trend shades practical for the salon

Contents

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Features 30 Investing in you Columnist Maria Dowling looks at the importance in investing in yourself and your business 52 Ready, steady, go…

The 2019 Professional Beauty Award entries are about to open – we take a look back at the highlights and winners of our 2018 event 55 The green scene The best vegan products on the market are revealed

On the cover 24 The light direction Profit potentials when introducing Laser and IPL to your treatment menu is explored 37 Stepping up Interviews with the joint-winners of the ESLP programme 40 Colour & care The newest launches to help you colour your client’s hair whilst protecting it

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7 News

News Social media skills sought after for spa jobs Knowing how to effectively intertwine marketing with social media strategy is one of the most sought-after skills in managers of spa and wellness businesses today.

A strong handle on recruiting and retaining skilled therapists is also in demand, according to Spa Business Education.

The online education training provider asked people working in the spa and wellness industry to share the top five areas of work they’d like to improve on to get an idea of which skills are deemed most important for managerial staff.

Leadership skills – particularly the ability to better deal with

business politics – were also frequently mentioned, as was financial knowledge and solid budgeting skills.

Business planning also made the top five, with many respondents saying they’d like to have more time to plan and oversee the development of smaller details of their businesses.

‫إن معرفة كيفية دمج التسويق مع إسرتاتيجية وسائل‬ ‫التواصل االجتامعي بشكل فعال هي واحدة من أكرث‬ ‫املهارات املطلوبة يف مديري رشكات العناية بالصحة‬ .‫واملنتجعات الصحية اليوم‬ ‫كام أن هناك حاجة قوية للتعامل مع توظيف‬ Spa ‫ وفقًا ملؤسسة‬،‫املعالجني املهرة واالحتفاظ بهم‬ .Business Education ‫وقد طلبت الجهة املقدمة للتدريبات التعليمية عرب‬ ‫اإلنرتنت من األشخاص العاملني يف مجال املنتجعات‬ ‫الصحية والعناية الصحية مشاركة أفضل خمسة‬ ‫مجاالت عمل يرغبون يف تحسينها ملعرفة املهارات‬ .‫التي تعترب األكرث أهمية بالنسبة للموظفني اإلداريني‬ ‫ وخاصة القدرة عىل‬،‫فأُشري إىل املهارات القيادية‬ ‫ بشكل‬،‫التعامل بشكل أفضل مع سياسات األعامل‬ ‫ وكذلك املعرفة املالية واملهارات الراسخة يف‬،‫متكرر‬ .‫املوازنة‬ ‫كام حصل تخطيط األعامل عىل املراكز الخمسة‬ ‫ حيث قال العديد من املشاركني إنهم يرغبون‬،‫األوىل‬ ‫يف الحصول عىل مزيد‬ ‫من الوقت للتخطيط واإلرشاف عىل تطوير تفاصيل‬ ‫أصغر‬

Raison d’Etre champions boredom The global spa consultancy and Think Tank for Wellness, has released its first anti-trend: “boredom is good for us”.

The new Think Tank for Wellness, which intends to release a new anti-trend each month, believes that we have forgotten how to slow down and enjoy moments where we do nothing.

A Monitoring the Future survey revealed that there was a sharp rise in depression and loneliness in children and teens from 2012 onwards, which correlated with when smart phones and social media use started to increase.

Raison d’Etre project manager, Maria Nystedt, says: “This is an opportunity for the spa industry to take the lead with children’s wellness and create family bonding spaces where children can relax with parents and siblings.

“Children’s wellness is an area that most spas haven’t tapped into, yet it is one of perhaps the simplest. Children need places to play and feel safe; so why not replace spa suites with family camp suites?

Complete with hammocks, waterslides, meditation cushions and fire pits, where families can just bond, connect and be naturally playful, without any aims of achieving anything, but time together.”

‫أصدرت رشكة االستشارات العاملية للمنتجعات‬ ‫ أول اتجاه‬Think Tank for Wellness ‫الصحية و‬ .»‫ «الضجر جيد لنا‬:‫مضاد لها‬ »Think Tank for Wellness« ‫يشري تقرير مؤسسة‬ ‫ التي تعتزم إطالق اتجاه مضاد جديد كل‬،‫الجديد‬ ‫ أننا نسينا كيفية نُبطئ وترية حياتنا ونتمتع‬،‫شهر‬ .‫بلحظات ال نفعل فيها شيئًا‬ ‫ أن‬Monitoring the Future ‫وقد كشف استطالع‬ ‫هناك ارتفا ًعا حادًا يف االكتئاب والشعور بالوحدة‬ ،‫ فصاعدًا‬2012 ‫لدى األطفال واملراهقني بد ًءا من عام‬ ‫وهذا األمر يرتبط بزيادة استخدام الهواتف الذكية‬ .‫واستخدام وسائل التواصل االجتامعي‬ Raison ‫ مديرة مرشوع‬،‫تقول ماريا نيستيدت‬ ‫ «هذه فرصة لقطاع املنتجعات الصحية‬:d’Etre ‫ألخذ زمام املبادرة بخصوص عافية األطفال وإنشاء‬ professionalbeauty.ae

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News

10 ‫مساحات للروابط العائلية حيث ميكن‬ .‫لألطفال االسرتخاء مع الوالدين واألشقاء‬ ‫«فعافية األطفال متثل منطقة مل تستغلها‬ ‫ وقد تكون‬،‫معظم املنتجعات الصحية بعد‬ ‫ يحتاج األطفال إىل أماكن للعب‬.‫أبسطها‬ ‫والشعور باألمان؛ فلامذا ال تحل أجنحة‬ ‫املنتجعات الصحية محل أجنحة‬ ‫املعسكرات العائلية؟ وتكون متكاملة مع‬ ‫األراجيح واملنزلقات املائية ووسائد التأمل‬ ‫ حيث ميكن للعائالت الرتابط‬،‫وحفر النار‬ ‫ وتكون مرحة عىل نح ٍو‬،‫والتواصل فقط‬ ‫ بدون أي أهداف لتحقيق أي‬،‫طبيعي‬ .»‫ وإمنا قضاء الوقت م ًعا وحسب‬،‫يشء‬ ‫تم تأكيد حضور عدد كبري من املتحدثني‬ ‫ املهندس‬،‫سوف يكون أنطونيو سيرتيو‬ Technogym ‫املعامري ومصمم‬ ‫ حيث ستقام القمة العاملية‬- Village Global Wellness 2018( 2018 ‫للعافية‬ ‫ الشخصية الرئيسية يف مؤمتر‬- )Summit ،‫ إيطاليا‬،‫هذا العام يف تشيزينا‬ ‫سيرتيو هو املؤسس املشارك ملامرسة‬ ‫التصميم متعدد التخصصات لرشكة‬ ‫ وهو‬،Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel ‫يعمل يف التصميم املعامري والداخيل‬ ‫ تتضمن مشاريع الرشكة‬.‫والحرضي‬ ‫املجمعات السكنية والتجارية واملقر‬ ‫ مبا يف ذلك‬،‫الرئييس للرشكات والفنادق‬ ‫ حول‬Bulgari ‫جميع فنادق ومنتجعات‬ .‫العامل‬ ‫يشتهر سيرتيو أيضً ا بتصميمه للمنتجات‬ ‫التي ترتكز عىل االحتياجات البرشية‬ ‫عىل نح ٍو يتسم بالتعبري واملتانة‬ ‫ وعالمة‬،Hermès ‫لعالمات تجارية مثل‬ ‫ رفيعة املستوى‬Hansgrohe Group ‫ قالت سوزي‬.Technogym‫ و‬،Axor ‫ رئيسة قمة العافية العاملية‬،‫إليس‬ ‫) والرئيسة‬Global Wellness Summit( ‫التنفيذية كذلك «هناك وعي متزايد بأن‬ ‫محيطنا يؤثر عىل صحتنا وأصبح (البناء‬ ‫عىل نح ٍو جيد للعيش بشكل جيد) شعا ًرا‬ ‫ “أنطونيو سيترييو‬.»‫متمي ًزا هذه األيام‬ ‫ فإيطاليا‬.‫هو نجم عاملي يف هذه الساحة‬ ‫ وأنطونيو‬،‫تشتهر بتصميمها الرائع واملتقدم‬ ‫يعترب تجسيدًا لهذه الدولة بحصوله عىل‬ ‫ وسوف يلهم‬.‫هذه الجائزة التي يستحقها‬ ».‫ويسعد وفود القمة‬ »Rixos the Palm Dubai« ‫أعلنت‬ »Rixos« ‫رسميًا عن إطالق عضوية نادي‬ ‫الذي يوفر لألعضاء إمكانية الوصول غري‬ ‫املحدود إىل جميع مرافق املنتجع مبا يف‬ ‫ذلك املرافق الصحية واللياقة البدنية‬ .‫والرياضية‬ ‫يقدم النادي مستويات مرنة من‬ ‫العضويات تلبي احتياجات األفراد واألزواج‬ ‫ حيث ميكن لألعضاء الوصول إىل‬.‫والعائالت‬ ،‫أحواض السباحة الثالثة يف مكان اإلقامة‬ ‫والدخول عىل مدار اليوم إىل مرافق العناية‬

Citterio to Keynote 2018 Global Wellness Summit Antonio Citterio, the architect and behind the Technogym Village – the 2018 Global Wellness Summit venue – will be a keynote at this year’s conference in Cesena, Italy, Citterio is co-founder of the multi-disciplinary design practice of Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, which works in architectural, interior and urban design. The firm’s projects

include residential and commercial complexes, corporate headquarters and hotels – including all Bulgari Hotels and Resorts worldwide.

Citterio is also renowned for his understated and enduring humancentric product design for brands like Hermès, the Hansgrohe Group’s luxury brand Axor, and Technogym. “There is an increasing awareness that our surroundings affect our wellbeing and ‘building well to live well’ has become a distinct rallying call,” said Susie Ellis, chair and CEO of the Global Wellness Summit. “Antonio Citterio is a global superstar in this arena. Italy is famous for its outstanding and forwardthinking design, and Antonio is the personification of this well-deserved accolade. He will inspire and delight Summit delegates.”

Citterio has been awarded the Compasso d’Oro-ADI twice, and his creations are included in the Museum of Modern Art’s permanent collection in New York. He was also a professor of Architectural Design at the Mendrisio Academy of Architecture in Switzerland for 10 years.

Kattan calls on make-up community to tone down use of photo editing Make-up artist, beauty blogger, and entrepreneur Huda Kattan has vowed to cut down on her use of the photoediting app Facetune, and has urged Instagram followers to do the same.

Dubai-based Kattan is one of the world’s most influential beauty bloggers. Alongside her recent post, Kattan uses a before-and-after shot of herself - one using Facetune, to demonstrate the difference photoediting cab make.

“I started feeling like people were way too into Facetune (myself included), but we don’t need it as much as we think we do and I feel sometimes we go too far”, wrote the

Dubai beauty mogul. While Kattan said she wasn’t willing to 100 per cent quit Facetune, she called for the make-up community as a whole to tone it down.

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Diversity and transparency key in today’s beauty market Being inclusive, transparent and viewed as authentic is key to success in today’s beauty market, according to market analyst Nielsen.

In a recent report on the US beauty market, the information company highlighted the importance for brands of connecting with consumers. “More than any other fast-moving consumer goods category, cosmetics shoppers want to identify with brands,” the Nielsen report stated.

The company went on to add that: “The brands that have been most responsive, building more inclusive product and messaging with a wider range of skin tones and colours, for example, are winning.”

This demand from consumers has seen a 22% growth in the number of shades available in facial cosmetics over the last five years. This rise in the variety of colours available is seven times faster than the overall rate of new product development for the cosmetic sector.

Nielsen also underlined the growth in online cosmetics sales, stating that “consumer spending on beauty products has shifted online faster than nearly every other packaged goods category”.

The online marketplace also represents new and increased opportunities for a greater number of brands, Nielsen said. In traditional cosmetics retail, the top 20 manufacturers command a 96% market share. Online, however, the roles are revered, with the top 20 manufacturers having a market

share of just 14%, and other brands making up the remaining 86%.

The Nielsen report also emphasised the importance of brand perception and reputation in today’s beauty market. The report commented: “Consumers are as focused on the transparency of the company and their practices as they are on what goes into the products they make. The beauty brands that will be successful will be authentic and true, flexible enough to be relevant to a wider array of consumers.”

Luxury spa market set to grow in Dubai The number of five-star hotel spas in Dubai is on track to increase by a compound annual growth rate of 11 per cent to 2021, according to data released by Colliers International.

According to the report, Spa & Wellness Travel, produced exclusively for Arabian Travel Market, the number of five-star hotel spas in Dubai will increase from 107 in 2017 to 157 in 2021, in close correlation with the emirate’s hotel pipeline.

High profile openings over recent months include The Spa at Palazzo Versace Dubai and The Bulgari Spa, which will contribute to projected annual spa revenues in the emirate of US$495 million, by 2019, according to Visit Dubai.

Simon Press, senior exhibition director, Arabian Travel Market,

said: “Regionally, the spa sector is multi-faceted and sensitive to events and developments in many other sectors, including global health, beauty and wellness trends.

“In 2017 we saw focus increase across these areas and Dubai was quick to capitalise and innovate, with the debut of a number of luxury-branded hotel spas.

“However, spas are no longer associated exclusively with the luxury market. As a result, we see more choice at various price points, a diversification in treatments, competitive marketing techniques and an increase in the number of spa management courses available to professionals.

“In 2018 and beyond, we expect to see these trends converge, further cementing Dubai and the region’s reputation as a leading medical,

wellness and health destination.”

In the report, Colliers analysed data from spas representing 369 treatment rooms across Dubai and Abu Dhabi, highlighting nuances in demand and revenue trends.

In 2015, wellness trips to the GCC increased 44 per cent compared to 2013, while the number of spas increased 27 per cent, with Oman and Bahrain leading growth.

Bahrain also saw the highest increase in revenue over the same period, at 17 per cent. The report concluded that such performance indicates a mature market capable of absorbing new supply.

Testing this, the UAE will welcome 83 new hotels in 2018, many featuring spa and wellness amenities and, across the Middle East, a further 500 new properties are due to open by 2020.

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News

15 ‫بالصحة واللياقة البدنية التي تشمل مرك ًزا‬ ‫للياقة البدنية مجه ًزا بالكامل مع دروس‬ ‫اللياقة البدنية الشخصية وجاكوزي داخيل‬ ‫وساونا وغرفة بخار وغرفة للتامرين الرياضية‬ .‫وملعب تنس مع مدرب تنس شخيص‬ ‫وسيحصل األعضاء الذين يقومون بالتسجيل‬ ‫كعائلة أيضً ا عىل إمكانية الدخول غري‬ )Rixy Kids Club( ‫املحدود إىل نادي‬ ‫لألطفال الذي يقدم أنشطة تفاعلية لألطفال‬ ‫مبا يف ذلك العروض السحرية وصيد الكنوز‬ ‫واألعامل اليدوية واليوجا لألطفال وما إىل‬ .‫ذلك‬ ‫ خبرية التجميل واملدونة‬،‫تع ّهدت هدى قطان‬ ‫ بتقليل‬،‫يف مجال التجميل ورائدة األعامل‬ ‫استعاملها لتطبيق تحرير الصور الفوتوغرافية‬ Instagram ‫ وحثت متابعيها عىل‬،Facetune .‫عىل فعل اليشء نفسه‬ ‫تُعترب هدى قطان املقيمة يف ديب إحدى أكرث‬ .‫املدونات يف مجال التجميل تأث ًريا يف العامل‬ ‫وباإلضافة إىل منشورها‬ ‫ تستخدم هدى لقطات قبل‬،‫الحديث‬ ‫ لتوضيح‬،Facetune ‫ باستخدام‬،‫وبعد لنفسها‬ .‫االختالف الذي يحدثه تحرير الصور‬ ‫«لقد بدأت أشعر وكأن الناس يتجهون‬ ‫ (مبا فيهم‬Facetune ‫بشكل كبري إىل برنامج‬ ‫ لكننا ال نحتاج إليه بقدر ما نعتقد أننا‬،)‫أنا‬ ‫ وأشعر أحيانًا أننا نتامدى يف هذا‬،‫نفعل ذلك‬ ‫ هذا ما كتبته خبرية التجميل املقيمة‬، »‫األمر‬ .‫يف ديب‬ ‫يف حني قالت هدى قطان إنها مل تكن‬ ‫ بنسبة‬Facetune ‫مستعدة لرتك تطبيق‬ ‫ فقد دعت مجتمع املكياج ككل‬،%100 .‫لتخفيف استخدامه‬ ‫يُعترب التحيل بالشفافية والشمولية والظهور‬ ‫مبظهر شخص موثوق به أم ًرا أساس ًيا للنجاح‬ Nielsen ‫ وفقًا لرشكة‬،‫يف سوق الجامل اليوم‬ .Market Analyst ‫يف تقرير حديث عن سوق التجميل يف‬ ‫ سلطت رشكة‬،‫الواليات املتحدة األمريكية‬ ‫املعلومات الضوء عىل أهمية العالمات‬ ‫ «أكرث‬.‫التجارية يف التواصل مع املستهلكني‬ ‫من أي فئة أخرى من السلع االستهالكية‬ ‫ يرغب املتسوقون يف مجال‬،‫رسيعة الحركة‬ ‫مستحرضات التجميل يف التعرف عىل تلك‬ ‫ كام‬،»‫املنتجات من خالل العالمات التجارية‬ .Nielsen ‫جاء يف تقرير‬ ‫ «إن العالمات التجارية‬:‫وأضافت الرشكة‬ ‫ وصنعت منتجات‬،‫التي كانت أكرث استجابة‬ ‫ورسائل أكرث شموالً مع مجموعة واسعة من‬ ‫ هي‬،‫ عىل سبيل املثال‬،‫درجات وألوان البرشة‬ .»‫التي تحقق الفوز‬ ‫إن عدد املنتجعات الصحية بالفنادق الخمس‬ ‫نجوم يف ديب يف طريقها إىل الزيادة مبعدل منو‬ ،2021 ‫ يف املائة نحو‬11 ‫سنوي مركب يبلغ‬ Colliers ‫حسب البيانات الصادرة عن رشكة‬ .International

Sue Harmsworth leaving Espa after 25 years Founder of spa and skincare brand Espa, Sue Harmsworth, has announced her departure from the company after 25 years of service.

Harmsworth founded the brand in 1993 and made it a leading name in the spa industry, extending the company’s reach to more than 70 countries. Espa has many accounts in the GCC and the world’s largest Espa spa is situated in the Mondrian Doha hotel in Qatar.

“The time is now right for me to step away from the brand I love. This move will enable me to concentrate on my passions for spa, integrative medicine, health and wellbeing, and to develop new partnerships and projects. I would personally like to thank our amazing customers, spas and global partners, and of course,

our team for their loyal support. It has been an incredible journey,” said Harmsworth.

Last year, Espa was acquired by online health and beauty retailers The Hut Group (THG). Paul Gedman, chief executive of THG, commented: “More than two decades ago Sue Harmsworth had a revolutionary idea that created the idea of beauty and wellbeing, an idea to provide the best holistic products and spa services around the globe.”

Harmsworth will be still be involved in other global beauty and spa projects, including continuing with her ongoing advisory on the boards for the Global Wellness Summit & Institute, Wellness for Cancer, Forbes and Bench Global Hotel Investment.

Rixo launches club membership Rixos the Palm Dubai has officially launched Rixos club membership which provides members unlimited access to all that the resort - including wellness, fitness and sports facilities.

The club offers flexible membership tiers catered to suit singles, couples and families. Members can have access the property’s three swimming pools, all-day access to the wellness and

fitness facilities that include a fullyequipped fitness centre with personal fitness classes, an indoor Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, aerobics room, and a tennis court with a personal tennis coach.

Members who sign up as a family will also have unlimited access to the Rixy Kids Club which offers interactive kids’ activities including magic shows, treasure hunting, handicrafts, kids’ yoga, etc.

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Naked Tan

For enquiries please contact +971 56 303 4044 www.nakedtan.ae

INDUSTRY NEWS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

Sales of vegan products soar Sales of vegan beauty products have grown 38% in the last 12 months (February 2017 to January 2018) as customers embrace a more wellness-orientated lifestyle, according to research from global information company The NPD Group.

Driven by campaigns like Veganuary, the growing popularity of adopting a vegan lifestyle has resulted in the total market for natural prestige beauty products, of which vegan is a category, being valued at £124 million in 2017.

“There has certainly been a rise in the number of vegan brands in prestige beauty and this coincides with consumers adopting a more conscientious approach when purchasing products, looking closely at the underlying

philosophies and actions of the brands,” said Helen Duxbury, senior account manager, NPD UK Beauty. “They not only investigate ingredients and efficacy, they want to know about traceability, and how animal-friendly they are. Vegan and cruelty-free are two of the big issues for customers in 2018, but still remains a niche segment of the skincare market.”

The prestige beauty market has also been boosted by the boom in natural beauty, with brands in this sector growing at 16%, ahead of the market growth which is at 7% in the same 12-month period. The biggest contribution came from products with anti-ageing properties (18%), as well as cleansers (14%) and

International News

17

masks (39%). Brands that have a clear stance on these ethical issues have also added a valuable boost to sales, the report found. Brands with cruelty-free certifications now accounts for 20% of women’s face skincare and grew by 18%, compared to the overall category which grew only 7%.

The top cruelty-free brands are: Charlotte Tilbury, Decléor, Elemis, La Prairie and Liz Earle.

Chiva-Som GM announced Celebrated wellness resort Chiva-Som has announced the appointment of Vaipanya Kongkwanyuen as its new general manager. The appointment follows the departure of former general manager Sheila McCann.

McCann, who was general manager of the award-winning Thai wellness destination for six years, left Chiva-Som in January to head up medical wellbeing group Lanserhof’s operations in the UK. Kongkwanyuen’s appointment sees him return to Chiva-Som after

a 24-year hiatus. In 1994, during the resort’s pre-opening phase, Kongkwanyuen was head of food and beverage at the property.

His most recent role was as general manager of the high-end

Aman resorts group, a position he took on in 2012. During his time with Aman, Kongkwanyuen he was closely involved in the pre-opening of the group’s resorts in Lijiang and Beijing in China: the Amandayan and Aman Summer Palace.

In addition to pre-openings and food and beverage, Kongkwanyuen’s areas of expertise include marketing, sales and strategic planning.

Kongkwanyuen is the first Thai general manager at Chiva-Som since the property opened.

Six Senses Kaplankaya to open in May The Six Senses group has announced the opening of Six Senses Kaplankaya in Turkey on May 1. The 141 room, suite and villa resort is located near Bodrum in the southwest of the country and will comprise a 10,00sq m spa spanning two floors.

The wellness offering at Six Senses Kaplankaya will be one of the most extensive in the Six Senses portfolio, with the spa featuring 20 treatment rooms.

Other features at the spa will include a seven-metre meditation

walk and a thermal area with a Tukish hammam.

The thermal area will also have a Finnish sauna, several steam rooms – including a crystal steam room – an ice room, hydrotherapy pool and private watsu pool. PB

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INDIA Delhi Mumbai Bengaluru Kolkata

4 - 5 June 2018 1 - 2 October 2018 4 - 5 March 2019 1 - 2 April 2019

IRELAND Dublin

7 - 8 October 2018

SOUTH AFRICA Durban Johannesburg Cape Town

20 - 21 May 2018 2 - 3 September 2018 March 2019

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Insider

20 Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

Insider beauty, hair and nails MARCH Temperatures are starting to rise and the majority of you expect skincare products to be more popular than any other retail item this spring/summer – perhaps to prepare and repair client’s skin for the strong sunshine.

As clients aim for a fuzz-free, beach-ready body, you also say that waxing is your most popular hair removal method, followed by threading.

Business figures are also sunny, with a 74% average rebooking rate and average treatment occupancy at 78%.

On the spot What will you retail most of this season?

1. Skincare 2. Hair products 3. Nail products

98%

Offer mentorship schemes for staff

4. Flip flops

The month in numbers HOW DID THE TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2017?

40% 60% BETTER

What’s your most popular hair removal method?

‫ الصالونات الداخلية‬.

1. Waxing 2. Threading 3.Sugaring 4. Laser

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

78%

0%

Offer solarium services

SAME

CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

74%

‫عندما تبدأ درجات الحرارة يف االرتفاع هذا‬ ‫ فإن املتوقع من معظمكم‬، ‫الصيف‬/‫الربيع‬ ‫هو بيع املزيد من منتجات البرشة أكرث‬ ‫ رمبا لتحضري‬- ‫من منتجات التجزئة األخرى‬ ‫وإصالح برشة العميل ضد أشعة الشمس‬ .‫القوية‬ ‫بينام يسعى العمالء للحصول عىل جسم خا ٍل‬ ‫ فأنت‬،‫من الشوائب جاهز الرتياد الشواطئ‬ ‫أيضً ا تقول إن إزالة الشعر بالشمع هي أكرث‬ ‫ يليها استخدام‬،‫طريقة شائعة إلزالة الشعر‬ .‫الخيوط‬ ،‫وإن املنتجعات التجارية مشمسة كذلك‬ ‫ أما متوسط‬،‫ من سعر إعادة الحجز‬%74 ‫مع‬ .%78 ‫اإلشغال العالجي فيقف عند‬

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Visit us at BEAUTY WORLD, Stand # G28, Hall 1 May 8-10, 2018

23 Insider

Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

Insider spa MARCH Business figures are down on last year, with almost half of you claiming that treatments business is worse than this time last year, while treatment occupancy is at 70%.

On a more positive note, in terms of staff development, an overwhelming majority of you say that you offer mentorship programmes to aspiring staff members.

Waxing remains your most popular hair removal method, while relatively few of you have delved into the world of lasers or opted to try the less well-known sugar removal method.

The month in numbers

On the spot

HOW DID THE TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2017?

40% WORSE

40% SAME

20%

‫ فيام يتعلق‬،‫وعىل نحو أكرث إيجابية‬ ‫ فإن الغالبية الساحقة‬،‫بتطوير املوظفني‬ ‫منكم تقول إنكم تقدمون برامج‬ .‫توجيهية للموظفني الطموحني‬ ‫وتظل إزالة الشعر بالشمع الطريقة‬ ‫ يف حني‬،‫األكرث شيو ًعا إزالة الشعر لديكم‬ ‫قليل نسبيًا منكم قد التحقوا‬ ً ‫أن عددًا‬ ‫بعامل الليزر أو اختاروا تجربة طريقة‬ .‫إزالة السكر األقل شهرة‬

Offer solarium services

1. Hair products 2. Skincare 3. Nail products 4. Flip flops

BETTER

What’s your most popular hair removal method?

‫ املنتجعات الصحية الداخلية‬.4 ‫انخفضت املنتجعات التجارية يف العام‬ ‫ حيث يدّعي حوايل نصفكم أن‬،‫املايض‬ ‫التجارة العالجية تعترب أسوأ من هذا‬ ‫ يف حني تبلغ‬،‫الوقت من العام املايض‬ .٪70 ‫نسبة اإلشغال يف العالج‬

0%

What will you retail most of the season?

1. Waxing AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

2. Threading 3.Sugaring 4. Laser

70% CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

76%

97%

Offer mentorship schemes for staff

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Laser & IPL

24

Light fantastic Laser and IPL can offer serious profit potential far beyond hair removal. FIONA VLEMMIKS explores the capabilities of this versatile tech

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T

he popularity of laser and IPL for hair removal has been steadily growing, but many salons and spas are now moving beyond the staple hair removal business to harness the full potential of these powerful machines.

Although laser comes with initial financial outlay, results are fast – both for the client and the salon.

For those who are yet to take the plunge, or are considering expanding their existing aesthetic services, laser or IPL can differentiate your treatment menu beyond the realms of hair removal – and provide a fast return on investment through cosmetic skin treatments that can improve the appearance of everything from wrinkles, pigmentation and vascular lesions, to acne and fungal nail infections.

Laser & IPL

25

Skin rejuvenation A viable alternative or accompaniment to injectables, laser skin rejuvenation stimulates, rejuvenates and tightens skin by promoting collagen and fibroblast activity deep within the skin cell structure, causing long-lasting results.

Moreover, with minimal discomfort and downtime, laser skin rejuvenation can be incorporated into existing facials to create a bespoke element, or as a standalone session.

Ian Hallam, company director and head of training and clinical support at Cosmedico, explains the benefits for skin rejuvenation: “A selected wavelength of 510-950nm is gently pulsed onto the skin while gliding the head-piece over the area to be treated. The client feels a gradual warming of the skin but without the traditional flicks/ pings of laser or IPL.”

Acne Laser and IPL can also provide the competitive edge when it comes to assisting clients with problem skin.

Chanele Rosa, clinical specialist at laser and IPL expert Ellipse, suggests using two wavelengths to treat active acne, depending on the severity. “The wavelength of 530-750nm can be used for active acne by targeting the porphyrins in the skin, helping to reduce future breakouts and overproduction of sebum. The wavelength of 400nm720nm is used with a photo spray in our Photodynamic treatments, further enhancing the treatment.”

A course of treatments, roughly four per month, is typically recommended and demonstrably effective for those with paler skins (types one to four). However, client expectations must be managed.

The therapy treats the symptoms of acne, rather than curing it, so clients taking any form of antibiotics or Roacutane to treat acne will be contraindicated. >

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Laser & IPL

26 Pigmentation “Many people from their late-twenties onwards suffer from premature ageing in the form of uneven skin tone and abnormal hyperpigmentation, largely due to exposure to harmful UV rays and other lifestyle factors such as smoking,” says Dr Samantha Hills, clinical director at Lynton Lasers, which manufactures a wide range of laser and IPL machines.

“When it comes to treating pigmentation, success is generally greater on fairer skin types (Fitzpatrick type 1 to 3) due to the greater risk of post-inflammatory hypo or hyper-pigmentation in darker skins.

While superficial pigmentation often only needs one treatment, pigmented birthmarks might need between three to six treatments to see good clearance, advises Hills.

“Some small, superficial pigmented lesions such as freckles and lentigines (age spots or sunspots) can also be thermally destroyed using a high-powered Intense Pulsed Light system or a long-pulsed Alexandrite laser,” she adds.

Though correct diagnosis of the pigmented lesion is essential before any treatment, and any unusual lesions should always be biopsied and diagnosed by a dermatologist.

Thread veins :‫ ميزة الليزر‬. ‫ميكن للعالج بالليزر والعالج بتقنية الضوء النبيض‬ ‫) أن يوفرا إمكانية استثامر كبرية تفوق‬IPL( ‫املكثف‬ .‫استخدامهام يف إزالة الشعر‬ ‫فقد تزايدت شهرة استخدام الليزر وتقنية الضوء‬ ‫ ولكن‬،‫) إلزالة الشعر باطراد‬IPL( ‫النبيض املكثف‬ ‫حال ًيا تحاول العديد من الصالونات واملنتجعات‬ ‫الصحية االستفادة منهام فيام هو أكرث من مجرد‬ ‫إزالة الشعر كعمل تجاري أسايس؛ وذلك لتسخري‬ .‫كامل إمكانيات هذه املاكينات ذات الفعالية القوية‬ ‫وبالرغم من النفقات املالية األولية التي يتكلفها‬ ‫ سواء للعميل‬- ‫ إال أن نتائجه رسيعة‬،‫العالج بالليزر‬ .‫أو الصالون‬ ‫وميكن لكبار اختصاصيي املعالجة الحاليني الذين‬ ‫يتمتعون بأساس متني من التدريب والخربة أن‬ ‫يتحولوا إىل‬ ‫متخصصني يف العالج بالليزر وتقنية‬ ّ ‫) فقط يف غضون أيام‬IPL( ‫الضوء النبيض املكثف‬ ‫ مام يزيد من مكاسبهم املحتملة‬،‫قليلة من التدريب‬ .‫ويعزز من مهاراتهم بشكل كبري‬ ‫بالنسبة ألولئك الذين ال يزالون بحاجة إىل أخذ‬ ‫ أو يفكرون يف توسيع نطاق الخدمات‬،‫زمام املبادرة‬ ‫ ميكن للعالج بالليزر أو‬،‫الجاملية التي يقدمونها‬ ‫) أن يحدث فارقًا‬IPL( ‫بتقنية الضوء النبيض املكثف‬ ،‫يف قامئة العالج لديهم يتجاوز حدود إزالة الشعر‬ ‫وذلك إىل جانب توفري عائد رسيع عىل االستثامر من‬ ‫خالل عالجات تجميل البرشة والعناية بها التي ميكن‬ ‫أن تحسن من املظهر الخارجي لكل يشء بد ًءا مــــن‬ ‫ وصوالً إىل‬،‫التجاعيد والتصبغ واآلفات الوعائية‬ .‫األمراض املعدية من حب الشباب واألظافر الفطرية‬ ‫ عليك أن تأخذ يف اعتبارك‬،‫مثل أي قرار للرشاء‬ ‫العديد من املتغريات الهامة عند استثامرك يف‬ .)IPL( ‫معدات الليزر وتقنية الضوء النبيض املكثف‬ ‫فابحث عن الرشكة التي توفر امليزات والخربات التي‬ ‫وقد يكون هذا األمر بسيطًا مثل مستوى‬.‫تالمئك‬ ‫ أو رمبا دعم ما‬،‫التدريب الذي يقدمونه مع معداتهم‬ .‫بعد الرشاء الذي ميكنهم تقدميه‬ ‫ إال‬،‫ويف حني أن النفقات املالية قد تكون ضخمة‬ ‫إن أي‬.‫أن معاينة األرقام ستنبئ بأرباح مستقبلية‬ ‫استثامر جديد ينطوي عىل بعض املخاطر ويُع ّد‬ ‫ لكن‬،‫وضع خطة عمل مدروسة جيدًا أم ًرا رضوريًا‬ ‫مع العالج بالليزر و تقنية الضوء النبيض املكثف‬ .‫) توجد أيضً ا إمكانات كبرية للنمو‬IPL(

Although larger veins may require sclerotherapy, the smaller, unsightly thread of spider veins (vascular lesions) that might plague many of your clients can be significantly reduced with laser treatments.

“Thread veins can be treated in a relatively short time scale – averaging two to four treatments – although this will depend on the types of vessels being treated,” explains Susan Forster, head of clinical training, aesthetics division at ABC Lasers, which distributes the Alma Harmony xl Pro system suitable for treating vascular lesions, tattoo removal, pigmentation and for performing skin remodeling, among its range of machines.

The technology works by destroying blood vessels. “The

process uses light to heat up the vessel in order to coagulate the blood to collapse the vessel, which the body will then eliminate over a period of a few days to a few weeks,” says Forster.

The treatment is only suitable for lighter skins (Fitzpatrick one to three). “Realistic expectations need to be set at the initial consultation,” continues Forster. “Due to the nature of the vascular system, the excellent results achieved may need to be maintained with further top up treatments if new veins develop.”

Nonetheless, laser treatment for thread or spider veins can yield a quick and gratifying return, an average full-face treatment taking just 15-20 minutes. “With each client requiring on average two to four treatments there is clear opportunity for a quick return of investment.”

Milia and skin tags Clients’ troublesome milia and skintags can also be treated with laser. “The form of laser generally used is the Er:YAG, at a wavelength 2940 nm,” says Sarah McNulty, head of training at Advanced Esthetics Solutions.

“This non-ablative treatment selectively vapourises the epidermis, leaving the surrounding tissue outside the treatment zone undamaged.Another laser option for milia and unblocking pores is q-switched Nd:YAG, applied to carbon paste. This softens hard nodules trapped beneath dead skin cells, gently resurfacing, healing and improving the texture.

The treatment requires little down time and the condition is best managed with suitable homecare – McNulty recommends an AHA cleanser, corrective serum, and vitamin A cream – providing retail opportunities for your business.

Decision time Like any buying decision, there are numerous variables to consider when investing in laser & IPL equipment.

Hills advises; “Look for a company with credentials that suit you. This could be as simple as the level of training they provide with their equipment, or perhaps the post-purchase support they can offer.”

While the financial outlay can be daunting, crunching the numbers will forecast future earnings. Any new investment carries some risk and a well-researched business plan is essential, but, with laser and IPL, there is also great potential for growth. PB

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Laser & IPL

28

We ask REBECCA TRESTON, founder and manager of Rebecca Treston Aesthetics at Euromed Clinic Center Dubai, for expert advice for those considering purchasing laser or IPL equipment Why are laser and IPL so popular?

Lasers and IPL are so popular, simply because they work.

Lasers are able to restore the skin back to its natural, youthful complexion and there are very specific treatments for specific indications. So for instance if you have sun damage or scars, you need to resurface the skin with a wavelength that can treat this problem, providing great results. IPL is not a laser, it is Intense Pulsed Light.

It is great for skin types 1 – 4 (any skin type darker, it is not advisable to use as it would probably burn the skin) and can be used to treat sun damage.

Which do you prefer for hair removal: Lasers or IPL? I much prefer lasers for hair removal as it is more specific, you can play with the parameters more so you can treat the target better. Lasers are more expensive to run, however, which is why many clinics only offer IPL hair removal.

Would you use lasers or IPL to remove skin imperfections such as milia or skin tags?

I would not use a QSwitch laser to remove milia I would use a needle. For comedones, however, a Q Switch laser works well to remove sebaceous secretions and also helps to eliminate blackheads from the skin by regulating it and cleaning out the skin. For skin tags, that are knobly, I would not use the QSwitch laser, I would only use that for pigmented spots.

What advice do you have for someone considering investing in a laser for their clinic?

To get a return on investment, as they are very expensive, it is vital to do your research. Speak to other doctors and skincare specialists to see what machines they use – a reputable company will always give you a point of contact so you can see the machine in action. Visit a clinic that has the machine currently and ask the specialist’s opinion.

Try before you buy. If you are a serious buyer, manufacturers will often let you keep the machine in the clinic for a trial period to see if it is actually what you are looking for.

Make sure the company is reputable and that there is a good after-sales package so that there is high-quality training, updated training and upgraded machines available to you. I would never buy a machine from a company that does not have a base in the UAE as there are strict regulations in the UAE about servicing and upkeep for machines so routine maintenance from the manufacturer must be readily available to you also.

Ensure the laser is a good machine to work with, that it does what it says and that it is durable. The best laser to invest in depends on what you are looking for, what you want to treat, what your demographic is. So there is not one machine that suits every clinic. That said, there are reputable laser companies to check out such as Cynosure, Syneron Candela, Lumenis and Quanta and it is always worth seeing what they have on offer. There is a lot of thought that should go into the process of buying a laser, prior to making that financial commitment. PB

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Marketing

30

Investing in you This month Maria Dowling explores the secret to successful salon ownership This month I started doing something for myself. Something that is helping to me develop as a salon owner, a manager and an individual.

Some of you may have heard about the EIDEAL Santi Business Leadership Programme; a few of you reading this may already be part of it. The programme is a creative and fun platform that gives salon business owners and senior managers the opportunity to grow and develop their skills in both management and running a business.

Run by Susie Santiago of Santi Development Programmes, and in collaboration with EIDEAL, the programme allows salon owners to come together, share experiences and learn from each other. The programme is made up of a series of fast paced seminars, one to one coaching and webinars where business owners can pick up really smart, clever tips and solutions to the problems they have in the salon that they can implement either immediately or over time, over the year.

One of the things I like about the programme is that it creates a fun, creative environment but it is also confidential.

Obviously as salon owners it is important to retain a certain degree of confidentiality in a group environment but Susie has created a platform where business owners are able to develop in a safe, confidential environment with her as a mentor, a guide as such.

When I first looked at the programme, quite a few of my fellow salon owners and senior managers were going through it at the time. Tara Roux of Kalm Salon said, “The key thing for me is having a mentor. I’m so busy mentoring my own staff in my business that I often forget about myself so it’s really good to bounce around issues and challenges with Susie in my monthly meetings”.

Another like-minded salon owner, Deborah Whitehead of Gloss Academy, said, “It has definitely made me stand back, look at the business and look at myself. It has made me realise that it doesn’t have to be me that does everything; I can get help from others”.

It then got me thinking about what makes Susie and the EIDEAL Programme so effective. Susie’s experience and credentials as a business coach and trainer in the beauty

industry makes her the perfect woman for the job! Susie understands where we are all coming from and has great expertise in hospitality, PR, marketing and recruitment, which adds variety to her coaching technique.

She rightly says, “Salon owners have little to no time to invest in their own self-development. They’re looking after other people, developing their team and making sure all staff are working well together as well as focusing on customers all the time. Where is the time to invest in their own development?”

When we look at salons and spas, we often believe that they all effortlessly succeed, staff remain constantly happy and motivated, and clients are forever in abundance. This isn’t always the case so it is importance for owners to continue to self-develop and upskill. The programme allows us to manage the salon more effectively, become a skilled leader in communications and management, and gives us the tools to take our business to the next level. PB

What does the course cover?

• Financial planning and targets – where are you now and where do you want to go?

• Personal time management and productivity • How can you manage to take time out to plan how you get to where you want to be?

• Branding, marketing, promotions – what you say to your outside audience • The client journey • Recruitment, team development and motivation • Delivery of salon services and retail – how you ensure your business stays on target • Communications – does the language your salon speaks to the team and the customer, reflect your brand?

Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years.

For more information call: +971 4 345 4225 Follow mariadowling on Instagram @mariadowlingdubai

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ASIA 2018 21 – 22 MAY 2018 • JW MARRIOTT PHUKET, THAILAND

NEW FOR 2018 JOIN THE INDUSTRY’S BEST MINDS Social networking Inspirational conference Brand showcase

Book your World Spa & Wellness Asia Convention delegate pass: www.worldspawellness.com/asia For conference enquiries please contact georgina@worldspawellness.com For exhibition enquiries please contact christie@worldspawellness.com or mel@worldspawellness.com Organised by:

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Ask the Experts

33

Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

I am hoping to attract new clients to my salon.

Will deep discounting help?

There is a myth in our industry that discounting is a good way to lure new clients and lapsed clients back. I am sure if you have tried discounting that you know that it simply isn’t that easy.

I have witnessed some great salons fall from grace and ruin their reputation by trying to grow their client base with deep discounting. With this model, the client is constantly chasing the latest offer with little chance of ever becoming loyal to any one business. So what can you do instead? Here are some top tips: Address any underlying issues Look at why you think you need to give discounts. Rather than chasing new clients, analyse why you aren’t retaining existing clients, ask for honest feedback and act fast to overcome any issues. It is easier to make past clients fans again than be constantly chasing new ones.

Always have a reason for discounting Offers need to be explained so a client can understand why you’re doing it. The offer could be a new treatment launch, salon anniversary, client birthday, or a refer a friend scheme or rebooking incentive.

Plan ahead Be proactive rather than reactive. Plan your marketing calendar well ahead so all offers are structured throughout the year. A common mistake

is to run a promotion on an unpopular treatment thinking it will draw clients in, but a far better idea is to run a promotion on a busier treatment linking it to your less popular one.

Get Help from Suppliers Suppliers can be a great source of free gifts or discounted products to use as offers instead of discounting. Also ask your suppliers to help you to promote with events and workshops. >

Susan Routledge is a UK based salon business consultant, speaker, author and founder of the Beauty Directors’ Club, a global business advice membership for salon, spa and clinic owners. www.beautydirectorsclub.com Free advice is also available in her facebook group Beauty Entrepreneurs.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae

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Keeping you connected to the industry

Here to help you stay on top of your social media channels, because online presence, is important.

We are an affordable social media management agency which creates content, uploads on to your platforms, reacts and engages with your followers (because, let’s face it, that’s how we do business) and reports back with weekly analytics.

A dedicated Account Manager will be assigned to your projects and will work closely with you to ensure you get the results you want.

SO, WHAT’S THE DEAL? Prices start from 6,000AED per month, however, if you are an existing client of ours then fees can be reduced to 4,000 per month.

Give us a buzz on +971 (0) 4 375 7300 or email emma@buzzsocial.ae for more information on packages

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Ask the Experts

35

How can I attract the right talent into my business?

We all know just how important it is to have a strong, talented team around

It’s crucial you understand what

us. So when a valued colleague leaves, it hits us hard. As both a salon owner

makes your therapists tick and

and a recruitment specialist, I’m always hearing about the lack of talent in

give them the recognition they

the beauty industry. I don’t buy it. Picking out perfect employees isn’t as

deserve. There’s no silver bullet,

easy as plucking apples from a tree, but I know the right candidates are out

no one-size-fits-all method for

there – they just need a little help finding their way to your salon. Here are

showing your appreciation, you

my essential tips for attracting – and keeping – the best staff for your business:

need to think on your feet.

For some people, a commission

Build your brand

structure that rewards upselling

If you’ve got it, flaunt it. Whatever makes your business stand out from the

to clients might fuel their fire.

crowd, be sure to shout about it all the time. Whether you’re speaking to

For others, training courses or

clients and staff, sending monthly newsletters, placing ads in local

on-the-spot incentives work best.

magazines, or posting to social media, you should keep the same “voice”.

Make sure your staff members

That means always using the same logo in the same way, always banging the

know they’ll be rewarded

drum for your business’s unique attributes and always communicating with

consistently for their effort.

a consistent, reliable personality – until the whole world gets exactly what your identity is and why they love it so much.

Perfect your interview process Work hard to get the right

Create an enviable environment

candidate for your business, but

Setting the right environment doesn’t just mean having great wallpaper and

also work hard to be the right

shiny new equipment – although that helps. It means leading a culture

business for the best candidate.

where every member of your team shares in your success and is committed

Don’t be afraid to “sell” your work

to sticking around and helping you achieve your goals. Gaining a reputation

environment to interviewees. You

as a great place to work makes it much easier to attract the very best talent.

do want your first choice to say yes, don’t you? To be sure of recruiting

Invest in development

the best person, your interviews

Personal growth is a fundamental human need, but many owners get

should be fair, but not easy.

nervous about training their staff. They fear that they’ll shell out to upgrade employees’ skills, only to watch them walk out the door as soon as they earn their certificate. This isn’t my experience. Providing opportunities to progress and develop can raise loyalty and lower staff turnover. It’s a real win-win, with tremendous value for both sides – they get the chance to flourish and advance their career, you get motivated employees better qualified to take care of your clients.

Recognise great work Everyone has a basic desire for financial security and to know when they’re

Stefania Rossi is a multiaward winning salon owner, as well as a current Professional Beauty Awards’ Judge. She has launched her own recruitment agency for the Hair and Beauty industries and is currently recruiting for the UK and the UAE. Find out more here www.stefaniarossi.co.uk

doing a good job, but not everyone likes to be rewarded in the same way.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae

professionalbeauty.ae

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GCC

For your beauty, hair and spa business May 2018

January 2018

April 2018

For your beauty, hair and spa business ‫ هي مجلة متخصصة يف قطاع الجامل والشعر والسبا‬Professional Beauty GCC ‫مجلة‬

siness hair and spa bu For your beauty, nal Beauty GCC ‫مجلة‬ ‫ هي مجلة متخصصة‬Professio ‫يف قطاع الجامل والشعر والسبا‬

GCC

GCC

For your beauty, hair and spa bu siness ‫يف قطاع الجامل والشعر والسبا‬ ‫ هي مجلة متخصصة‬Professio nal Beauty GCC ‫مجلة‬

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We explore the vegan beauty hype

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07/03/2018 14:02

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Interview

37

Stepping UP This month Emma Baron catches up with the two winners of the Eideal Santi Leadership Programme (ESLP) Ruksher Malik and Valerie Reynaert

NAME: RUKSHER MALIK JOB TITLE: CO-FOUNDER SALON NAME: PASTELS SALON

Why did you decide to join the ESLP?

What key learnings did you take away?

I have never undertaken a detailed business programme before and I felt that if I wanted to take the salon to the next level and ensure the brand’s continued and enhanced success, I needed to do this. When EIDEAL offered me the chance to do this programme, I felt it would be a perfect match to meet my requirements and enable me to achieve my goals.

Through it, I have been able to forge a more effective business strategy for Pastels Salon.

I have learned about planning and forecasting, sharper budgeting, branding and marketing, loyalty schemes, the client journey, net promoter score, mission statement and so many other things that until this programme came along, I hadn’t been able to fully master. >

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Interview

39

How does it feel to win? What changes will you make as a result?

I am so proud to have been named a winner and I hope to continue the journey that I have started on this programme – that is, to make Pastels Salon the best it possibly can be while sticking to our ethos. We have penned out a priority list and this will take a while to implement. Susie has mentored us to start one thing at a time and perfect it, before moving on to implementing another strategy.

Thanks to the programme, I have learned to work both in the business and on the business simultaneously and one key change that we have made as a business so far is the implementation of detailed staff appraisals, which have helped identify the strengths individual staff members have as well as the areas with which they need help to improve.

NAME: VALERIE REYNAERT JOB TITLE: MANAGING DIRECTOR SALON NAME: SISTERS BEAUTY LOUNGE

Why did you decide to join the ESLP? I am extremely fortunate and honored to have been chosen by Eideal to participate in this fantastic leadership programme. I was very eager to know where I stand as a leader today and how I could build on my leadership skillset. The most enjoyable part was connecting with colleagues from the industry and having the opportunity to share some of my learnings with them and get their feedback. I strongly believe that we can only grow as an industry by learning from each other and striving to improve the overall industry for our clientele.

What key learnings did you take away?

I always jump on the opportunity to learn and this programme was a great refresh to the business strategies I usually implement within my work. It has certainly shed some light on some of the best standards and as a result, it got me to re-think my own operations manual as well as our employee’s

evaluations. Negotiation has always been my strength, but I thoroughly enjoyed being pushed

by Susie even further!

How does it feel to win? What changes will you make as a result?

I am extremely humbled and honored to have won this award as I have dedicated my life to continuous learning and leading by example. I am a big believer that great leadership is the only way to achieve results for my key stakeholders. An inspired team can move mountains. PB

The ESLP is mentored by industry expert Susie Santiago and is a year long programme spearheaded by both Santiago and EIDEAL. For more information on joining this year’s ESLP contact +971 (0) 4 259 4665

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Colour

40

Colour & Care

The newest launches to help you colour your client’s hair while protecting it Smoothly does it

Sheer joy

Milk_shake Smoothies are ammonia-free with milk proteins, organic honey, organic sunflower oil, amino acid complex and fruit extracts to condition the scalp and hair. The conditioning colouring creams offer natural coverage, which is ideal for covering the first signs of grey.

Guy Tang Mydentity #Hairbesties has launched a new versatile shade called Crystal Clear. It can be mixed into any Mydentity demipermanent shade to soften or sheer out for unlimited creative colour. It also adds a shine when used alone with 1:2 mixing ratio.

Bright sparks There are 14 bright shades of semi-permanent colour cream in the new OSMO Colour Psycho range. You can also produce a pastel effect by blending with the OSMO Color Psycho Color Tamer.

Colour Explosion

Youth 101 Indola PPC Ageless colour kit comes in eight shades to strobe away grey hairs.

There are two techniques – glam strobing and youthful strobing, depending on the amount of grey that needs to be covered.

3D colour The HD3 technology in Goldwell Pure Pigments gives three-dimensional colour and long-lasting brilliance. Six concentrated colours: Pure Yellow, Pure Orange, Pure Red and Pure Violet create vivid colour, and Pearl Blue and Matte Green soften and counteract unwanted tones.

Shades of grey The trend-led smokey tones in Fudge Professional’s Headpaint New Ash Infusions Smokey Toner Palette are still cool for summer.

Ingredients include mallow extracts to give shine and softness and rice protein to strengthen strands.

Bold and brave Manic Panic Minis are 25ml tubes of colour from the classic range. The smaller sample size can be used to create rainbow roots and hidden colour panels.

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Softly, softly L’Oréal Professionnel Source Essentielle Radiance Cleansing Infusion Shampoo and Radiance Balm both help to maintain the radiance of colour treated hair for up to 28 shampoos.

Alterna Caviar Infinite Color Hold is a sulphate-free range, including a shampoo, conditioner, shine spray and vibrancy serum to minimise colour fade.

The range contains a blend of antioxidant oils – red raspberry leaf oil and sunflower seed oil with high levels of vitamins A, C and E and omega 3 fatty acids.

Shine on Kevin Murphy Shimmer.Me Blonde is a repairing shine treatment mist with colour enhancers, optical brighteners and natural softeners to restore highlighted and lightened blonde shades.

Damage control Joico’s K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock Multi-Perfector Spray is designed to be used on coloured hair every day. It fuses exotic oils with a unique caring formula that helps to lock in muchneeded moisture and vibrancy while reducing colour fade.

Colour

Colour keeper

Tender Loving Care

Strong bond INNOluxe V2 contains the brand’s unique aminobond complex which creates a support network made up of keratin and proteins inside each hair strand.

This translates into stronger, smoother and thicker hair.

Shot of health

Triple threat Revlon Nutri Color 3-in-1 Cocktail is a multi-tasking wonder. It provides instant colour to refresh dull hair and it seals the cuticle to care and nourish locks while providing outstanding shine.

Wella Professionals INVIGO range includes boosters with ultra-concentrated shots to recharge your client’s hair.

The Wella INVIGO Color Brilliance Booster contains lime caviar to boost colour.

Purple power Label.m Cool Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner both use botanicals to eliminate brassy and yellow undertones on blonde, silver and grey hair.

The blueberry, purple potato and purple carrot ingredients deposit violet-intensifying pigments. professionalbeauty.ae

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Fashion

43

DICHOTOMY Opposites attract with diverse shapes and textures

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Fashion

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“This collection aims to define contrasting personalities, attitudes and emotions through shapes, textures and mood lighting.

Each look reflects a combination of confidence, serenity, femininity and strength.�

Brandon Messinger

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Fashion

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Fashion

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Hair: Brandon Messinger at Zullo & Holland Make-up: Erika Ra Styling: Brandon Messinger Products: Denman, Collexia and Wella EIMI Photography: Russ Kemp

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Fashion

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BACK TO SCHOOL A lesson in how to make creative and on-trend shades practical for the salon

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Fashion

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Hair: Kevin Murphy Colour: Kate Reid Make-up: Hristina Georgievska Styling: Emily Ward Photography: Luis Murphy

“Colour today is all about personalisation and I wanted to explore the idea of the artisan creating colour by hand. We gave the models’ hair a loose, almost bohemian feel to enhance the colour.”

Kevin Murphy professionalbeauty.ae

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Professional Beauty GCC Awards

52

Could it

BE YOU?

Entries open soon for the 2019 Professional Beauty GCC Awards.

Here’s a recap of this year’s awards night and winners The roof was raised at the first Professional

swing, the ceremony began with a

Beauty GCC Awards – a triumphant

introduction of all our worthy finalists –

evening, which saw individuals and

then, one-by-one each sponsor took to

businesses take to the stage in recognition

the stage to announce the winner of

of their successes in the beauty, hair and

each category.

spa industry.

Kicking off the evening was a champagne

mariadowling salon won Hair Salon of the Year commented: “We’re so proud to be

reception where all finalists and sponsors

crowned Hair Salon of the Year 2018 at the

gathered before the doors opened to a tasty,

industry awards in Dubai. To be recognised

three-course dinner. The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC

by our peers is the best accolade we could

was the location of choice to host the

wish for. Thank you to our fantastic team for

inaugural awards evening. The setting was

their absolute professionalism, creativity

truly stunning and the purple-branded stage,

and hard work. Also a big thank you to

the bright lights and glitzy centrepieces gave

Professional Beauty for believing in the

the event the “wow” factor.

industry and helping to raise standards here

DD FOXX was the MC of choice, a

in Dubai”.

multi-talented Lebanese singer who

With the atmosphere continuing to be

delighted the 350 attendees with her

electric, attendees took to the dance floor

show-stopping performance before the

till the early hours of the morning to mark

awards ceremony. With the night in full

what really was an epic evening. PB

The 2019 Professional Beauty GCC Awards returns on February 11th, 2019.

Keep your eyes peeled for announcements on how to enter by following our Instagram page @pro_beautygcc or visit www.professionalbeauty.ae

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Professional Beauty GCC Awards 2018

53

Professional

BEAUTY GCC Award Winners

Beauty Salon of the Year

Hair Salon of the Year

Sponsored by: The Nail Spa, Mall of Emirates, Dubai

Sponsored by: Mariadowling salon, Dubai

Bridal Hairstylist of the Year

Make-Up Artist of the Year

Sponsored by: Saima Saqib, Be Bar Blow Dry Bar, Dubai

Business Director of the Year Sponsored by: Jacob Hrayki, The Loft Fifth Avenue

City Hotel Spa of the Year Sponsored by: Anantara Spa, Anantara Eastern Mangroves, Abu Dhabi

Colour Technician of the Year Sponsored by: Charlie Francis, Ted Morgan Hair, Dubai

Day Spa of the Year Sponsored by: SensAsia Urban Spa, Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai

Hair & Beauty Salon of the Year Sponsored by: Aveda Dubai Flagship Salon, Galleria Mall, Dubai

Sponsored by: Shomaiza Shamrez

Manager of the Year Sponsored by: Emily Sarah Tucker, Hairworks

Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Sponsored by: Luca Comella, Y-12 Salon, Dubai

Nail Professional of the Year Sponsored by: Katherine May Vegara, Chi Nail Spa

Resort Spa of the Year Sponsored by: Willow Stream Spa, Fairmont the Palm

Team of the Year Sponsored by: Tara Rose, Khalifa City, Abu Dhabi

Therapist of the Year Sponsored by: Wilfred Suarez, Willow Stream Spa, Fairmont The Palm

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The

Green SCENE

Vegan products have become a mega hype in our industry.

Here are our top picks

New Products

55

BEAN BODY

SPECTRUM BRUSHES

COFFEE SCRUB

BOMBSHELL COLLECTION

This all-natural, vegan friendly body scrub is proven to eliminate cellulite, stretch marks and general skin imperfections.

Call Lucrae: +971 (0) 4 431 7919

All of the Spectrum Brush collection sets are totally vegan free, which makes us love them even more.

Call Aspire Trading: +971 (0) 56 696 8834

ELEMIS SUPERFOOD FACIAL OIL

DAVINES

As green as can be! Elemis’ latest Superfood Collection is bursting with green goodness.

Call Luxuria Trading: +971 (0) 4 430 8321

SEA SALT SPRAY An award-winning leave in spray, this Davines treatment gives clients a natural beachy-wave look.

Call Eideal: +971 (0) 4 259 4665

DERMALOGICA PRE CLEANSE BALM This water-activated vegan cleanser transforms from balm to an oil whilst locking in hydration and reinforcing the skin barrier.

Call Healthcare: +971 (0) 4 447 7636

SPARITUAL BEACH READY COLLECTION All Sparitual collections are vegan and free of DBP, toluene, camphor, formaldenhyde and formaldengyde resin.

Call Madi International: +971 (0) 4 338 2773

ZOYA ZOYA KISSES QUAD The Zoya Kisses Quad includes four vegan-friendly shades, new for this season Call Beautylicious: +971 (0) 4 220 6024

professionalbeauty.ae

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Calendar

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Diary

DATES

MAY 8-11 BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAE A large, international fair for the beauty, hair, fragrance and wellbeing sectors, this event brings together more than 1,570 exhibitors from more than 57 countries www.beautyworldme.com MAY 21-22 WORLD SPA & WELLNESS CONVENTION, ASIA JW Marriott Resort & Spa, Phuket, Thailand This spa and wellness convention is the first of its kind in Asia, having successfully launched previously in London and Dubai. The two-day conference is a leading networking event for CEOs and owners of spas, hotels and wellness centres www.worldspawellness.com/asia

JUNE 4-5 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DELHI Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Since its launch in 2012, Professional Beauty Delhi has been recognised as a key local and international trade show in India. Over 30,000 trade visitors attend the show to meet top suppliers, network and witness the latest trends and innovations www.professionalbeauty.in/delhi JUNE 10 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BELFAST Belfast Waterfront, Belfast, Northern Ireland A fantastic opportunity to trend spot, gain inspiration, network and learn with all the top brands presenting their innovations and industry experts sharing their knowledge on the hottest industry topics www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/Belfast

Solarium Tanning With Vitamin AFFORDABLE LUXURY TANNING & SKIN CARE

TRAIN WITH US TODAY, APPROVED KHDA CERTIFICATE!

Call us today!

Toll Free: 800 237 462 www.afrina.com Untitled-10 1

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High-end spa, wellness and medical equipment.

Made in Germany.

PediSpa Series

Libra Horizontal Choreographic Shower Series

MLX Quartz Spa Table Series

MLW Transform First Transform Sofa To Massage Table

MLX Limber Patented Universal Spa Table

MLW Spa Table Series

Gharieni Middle-East • Dubai Design District D3 • Building 1 • Office B208 • Dubai Tel: +971 (0) 4 276 6734 • info@gharieni.ae • www.gharieni.ae

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