Professional Beauty GCC - May 2016 by Professional Beauty GCC

May 2016

First impressions How welcoming is your reception?

Just the business The story behind truly bespoke spa menus

REFRESH & REVAMP

Is it time to redesign your spa?

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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

PROFEStSIONALBEAUTYGCC

May 2016

RECEPTION SKILLS • BESPOKE MENUS • SPA DESIGN • NAILS

First impressions How welcoming is your reception?

Just the business The story behind truly bespoke spa menus

REFRESH & REVIsAMP it time to

redesign your spa?

MAY 2016

y ritty nittyg nailn behind Th e tech n ology

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NEWS

All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa

LivNordic Spa launches in Dubai

ocated in the Cayan Tower in Dubai Marina, the spa, which is the result of a partnership between Raison d’Etre and Cayan Hospitality (a subsidiary of the Cayan Group), is delivering an experience focused entirely on Nordic wellbeing traditions. LivNordic Spa provides holistic treatments and intuitive services derived from the health and beauty secrets of Nordic countries. A Nordic bathing treatment is among the highlights and combines spells in the sauna

with quick icy dips. Commenting on the inspiration behind the LivNordic concept, spa director, Carolina Moquist, says: “We believe that everybody has a right to enjoy life and have access to the tools to do so. LivNordic pursues holistic wellbeing by drawing on the rich resources that the Nordic culture, both traditional as well as contemporary, has to offer today. Inspired by a natural sense of stillness, innovative creativity and deep

Madi unveils premium haircare range To celebrate the launch of the Kerasilk range, Madi International teamed up with Gloss salon in Dubai and Orchid Beauty Boutique at Sharjah Ladies Club for two exclusive client events. The events were carefully curated with drinks, cupcakes and biscuits co-ordinating with the colours of the Kerasilk range, while trainers and marketing staff from Madi were on hand to provide consultations to clients and advice to the salons' stylists. Clients, meanwhile, were given an opportunity to experience the benefits of the new Kerasilk line, which is comprised of four different ranges – Control, Reconstruct, Repower and Color. Incorporating both professional

and retail products for use at home, Kerasilk is designed as a premium haircare range that targets specific concerns such as dryness, damage, frizziness or limp hair and helps to revitalise and transform hair. “Kerasilk is a premium treatment range is that is composed of only four treatments, it’s a compact range but very efficient in results and it covers all our clients’ needs. Treatments are relaxing and extremely effective so we can be assured that clients will leave happy and satisfied with our salon,” says Ana Ledinski, spa and beauty consultant, Sharjah Ladies Club. “The launch was very successful and it is one of the most popular treatments in our salon now,” she adds.

abiding love for nature, our LivNordic spas offer a space where you are invited to engage with the dynamics that allow for a balanced and healthy lifestyle anywhere in the world – the Nordic way.” In parallel to the spa treatment menu, guests can also enjoy a selection of Nordic organic smoothies, drinks, snacks and juice blends, with fairtrade and locally sourced ingredients. The spa also features a shop retailing products that are used throughout the treatments.

LPG concludes successful participation at Dubai Derma The French beauty brand showcased its latest beauty and wellness solutions at the event on 12 to 14 April at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre. LPG exhibited its latest anti-ageing and body slimming machines focused on delivering medical and aesthetic treatments at the event. Ludovic Loffreda, chief executive officer of LPG Bella Concept in the Middle East said: “There is increasing demand for natural dermatology solutions and we are seeing remarkable growth in the Middle East region especially in the UAE market for such treatments. Our successful exhibition at Dubai Derma inspires us to grow the brand in the region and to promote LPG’s vision of ‘Responsible Beauty’ focusing on 100 per cent natural anti-ageing and body slimming treatments that respect the human body.”

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Kerstin Florian chief creative officer Charlene Florian passes away

he spa and beauty industries have been paying tribute to Charlene Florian after she passed away at the end of March following a battle with cancer. Charlene, the daughter of Kerstin Florian, the founder of the skincare brand was the company’s chief creative officer and had played a key role in growing and promoting the brand. In an official statement from the company, Kerstin Florian International said: “Charlene was a shining light within the industry, leading the path for a healthy, more natural lifestyle and touching everyone she encountered with positivity, kindness and joy.” Charlene’s death comes just a month after Kerstin Florian’s husband Wayne passed away. The statement from the company also praised Charlene as “inspirational and vibrant”, stating: “She truly loved her industry and the close-knit, extended Kerstin Florian family she

was fortunate enough to work with for over two decades.” Charlene’s role within the company included researching and developing new products and treatments, and acting as a spokesperson for the company. Janette Gladstone-Watts, founder of The Product House, which distributes Kerstin Florian products in the UAE, said: “Charlene touched the minds and hearts of everyone she met and her passion and contribution to health and wellness and to the products she loved, was incredible. “Seeing her insight, knowledge and dedication while building the Kerstin Florian portfolio was remarkable. Her understanding of technology and the depth of her research was incredible, as was her warmth and kindness.” In its statement, Kerstin Florian International said of Charlene, who had two daughters: “We will forever miss her – her light and legacy lives on in her children and the beautiful products she created.”

Ispa honours Geraldine Howard with posthumous Visionary Award The International Spa Association (Ispa) is dedicating its 2016 Visionary Award to the memory of Aromatherapy Associates founder Geraldine Howard. The award, which will be presented at the Ispa Conference and Expo in Las Vegas in September, is given annually “to someone in the spa industry who has made significant contributions to the movement of health and wellness”. The award will be accepted by Howard’s husband Peter Redman. Ispa president Lynne McNees said of Howard, who passed away earlier this

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

year after a long battle with cancer: “Geraldine was a trailblazer for aromatherapy and we are honoured to celebrate her life and the impact she made on the community.” Past winners of the Visionary Award, which was first presented in1999, include skincare brand founders Jane Iredale, Dr Howard Murad and Horst Rechelbacher, the founder of Aveda, and Global Wellness Summit chairman and chief executive Susie Ellis – among others.

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Dubai Spa market to remain strong

recent survey from Colliers International has reported a positive outlook among Dubai spa operators. According to the findings, 75 per cent of spa operators are expecting

Pastels Salon creates own app With technological developments in the beauty sector continuing to gain ground, Pastels Salon is capitalising on this interest by launching its own app. The launch of the app, which is available on both iOS and android, follows closely behind the unveiling of Pastels’ new look website. The app allows users to stay up-todate with the latest news and trends from the salon. It also provides a GPS location finder, enabling users to quickly identify their nearest Pastels salon, a meet the team section and a photo gallery. Future plans for app will see a booking function included, allowing users to quickly and easily schedule their next appointment at the salon.

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revenue growth in 2016, this comes in spite of increasing competition in the sector. Colliers, a specialist in real estate advisory services, compiled its report based on the results of a survey completed by 25 leading spa operators between January and February 2016. Additional findings from the survey highlighted sourcing skilled manpower, an increasing number of price sensitive customers and an influx of new entrants into the spa market as the biggest challenges of 2015. “Given that Dubai currently offers a very limited number of spa-specific college level courses and training programmes, it is not surprising that recruitment of therapists was identified as the biggest challenge that the market faced last year. At present operators rely on external training, which is both time consuming and costly. Changes are on track, however, as spa courses are being introduced into curriculums,” says Filippo Sona, Head of Hotels, Colliers

International in the MENA region. “An area that does need further attention, however, is the continuous stream of new entrants offering the latest in design and technology. The Dubai hotel spa market, for example, witnessed 11 new opening in 2015 alone. This presents spa operators with a dilemma. Should I invest in new trends? Or cater to the rise of value-driven consumers? The answer is knowing your market and knowing when to say yes to an emerging trend,” Sona adds. 2015 findings also revealed an increase in the number of walk-in clients, together with a general increase in the number of treatments sold per day. “Despite the challenges, the Dubai spa market has remained resilient and continues to grow. Over 76 per cent of respondents expect spa revenues to continue to grow in 2016 which is a tremendous result and indicative of the rising growth of the industry and its ability to drive guest bookings,” Sona says.

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Specialized Beauty holds skin awareness programme

he event was organised in April to educate beauty centre managers on the importance of good skincare. The programme, which showcased the Reviderm products supplied by Specialized Beauty in the Middle East, included interactive discussions on the importance of skin health and the proper use of various cosmeceutical treatments and anti-ageing products, for specific skin types. Live demonstrations wowed the attendees with immediate results and lifting, wrinkle removal, lightening, face rejuvenation and skin tightening were some of the treatments tried by the guests.

Said Mania El Baba managing director of Specialized Beauty, “At Reviderm ‘skintelligence’ solutions which define new standards in the field of beauty and healthy skin are developed in close coordination with expert dermatologists and cosmetologists. Your skin health is very important for your appearance, however it is the largest organ in your body, performing so many basic and vital tasks that are crucial for the overall body functions. All of the German anti-ageing Reviderm skin treatments are for beauty purposes and special dermatological needs for both face and body, men and women alike. They have been developed using knowledge

gained from medical and cosmetic research to harmonise modern science with the essence of nature by being formulated to mimic the body’s natural processes. The products used in the treatments are all unique in their type, quality, concentration and combination of active ingredients. They are free of preservatives, chemicals and parabens. Determining the right treatment depends on so many factors besides skin condition, type and texture. Environmental factors, seasons, lifestyle, and overall health all play an important role.”

UAE reports low skin cancer rate, but sun-exposed skin diseases could rise warns expert Despite being in one of the world’s most sun-exposed regions, the UAE is reporting a remarkably low incidence of skin cancer, according to one of Europe’s leading dermato-oncologists. Yet Dr Claas Ulrich, who heads the skin cancer centre at Berlin’s Charité University Hospital, one of Germany’s most research-intensive medical institutions, says the longer life spans of UAE nationals and changing dress patterns will increase the proportion of sun exposure related skin diseases, paralleling trends in other parts of the globe. Added to that the Emirates’ high number of expatriates, prone to sunbathing, could increase the incidence. Dr Ulrich recently addressing a gathering of UAE-based medical practitioners and dermatological specialists across Dubai and Abu Dhabi in lectures organised by the Swiss global leading dermatology company Galderma, the medical solutions company of Nestlé Skin Health, which has just launched its Daylong sunscreen range in the Emirates.

“The fact is nationals in the UAE are living longer thanks largely to major strides in the healthcare sector,” explained Dr Ulrich. “While most of the people over 60, particularly women, have largely been protected from ultraviolet radiation – the main cause of skin cancer - thanks to conservative clothing, reports show their most exposed areas, the face and hands and even feet are vulnerable. Our data shows that long-term exposure to the sun in one of the world’s sunniest climates has led to increased susceptibility among this age group.” Currently UAE nationals have an

average life expectancy of 77 – one of the highest in the Arab world. Dr Ulrich points out, however, that the UAE’s incidence of sun cancer – which is one of the world’s most common accounting for one in every three cancers diagnosed globally – is likely to be influenced by the country’s large number of expatriate residents which makes up around 90 per cent of the overall population. “Sunbathing here is a popular pastime particularly among the Western expatriates who by and large have the fair skin that is most vulnerable.”

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17 Industry news from around the globe The Maldives’ Amilla Fushi resort partners with Bodyism

avvu Spa at the Amilla Fushi Resort in the Maldives has announced a partnership with the Bodyism fitness and wellness concept. Through the partnership, which came into effect earlier last month, Javvu Spa clients are now able to take Bodyism fitness classes and personal training sessions and order food created in accordance with the Clean and Lean nutrition guidelines that form part of Bodyism. The Bodyism training concept incorporates a Body Oracle diag-

Sales of face oils grows by double digits in the UK

Sales of face oils saw double-digit growth in the UK in 2015, according to figures from market analysts the NPD Group. While face oils still account for just one per cent of the prestige women’s skincare market, sales in the category rose by 30.8 per cent

nosis, assessing the client’s fitness and level of fat storage, as well as a focus on weight training, alignment and posture. The aim is to create “long, lean athletic bodies". Classes available to guests include the Clean and Lean Class, fusing elements of yoga, pilates, ballet and interval training to stretch, tone and burn fat. There is also the high-intensity Clean and Lean Warrior, designed to build muscle and improve strength and flexibility; and the Bodyism Ballet, focusing on core strength, flexibility and posture.

The Bodyism health supplements are also on offer at the spa. A new Island Café by Clean and Lean has also been created at the spa, serving unprocessed and glutenfree food. Dishes on the menu include aubergine puree, cauliflower rice and grilled pineapple. Bodyism was founded by James Duigan 10 years ago and has acquired a celebrity following in the last decade, with a number of high profile clients on its books

Six Senses Spa launches Kids Wellness Programme A healthy alternative to a Kids’ Club, The Six Senses Spa team at the Elounda Peninsula All Suite Hotel in Crete has devised a programme that includes wellness education and spa treatments for children aged five to 12 years. The three-day programme introduces the children to the principles of wellness and a healthy lifestyle with specialist classes, games, and treatments, as well as workshops about healthier living to educate them on how to integrate wellness into everyday life. Attendees will between 2014 and 2015.    The face oils category includes cleansing oils and anti-ageing oils.   NPD said growth in the category was driven by an increased awareness of the products, as well as by new launches. Best-selling face oil products in 2015 included the Huile Orchidee Bleue and the Huile Santal, both from Clarins.

learn how to do a foot scrub, paint nails and make organic beauty products as well learning about herbs and gardening. The programme takes place in a special facility with the indoor area covering 7,500sq ft and comprising classrooms, activity rooms and a wellness treatment area, as well as a kitchen and changing rooms. The outdoor area is 43,000sq ft and includes an eco-gym, labyrinth garden and meditation cave, Hippocrates garden, pool and playground. Teresa Fisher, senior account manager, NPD UK Beauty, said: “The recent growth in the face oil market is boosting the prestige skincare market by increasing sales, and also demonstrates the enthusiasm with which consumers adopt new rituals and are willing to try new products and innovations.”

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Revamp and refresh Redesigns are tricky business: how often are they necessary, how much should you change and how do you carry them out successfully? Nora Elias finds out from the experts.

combination of everyday wear and tear and the dating of décor and features means any long-running spa will eventually need a design touch-up, whether in the form of smaller decorating tweaks or a complete facilities overhaul. But how do you know when to refurbish and how much to change, and how do you carry out renovation work with minimum disruption to your guests, and minimum loss of revenue to the business? Experts say that while there is no rule for how often a spa design needs to be updated, dependent as it is on the size and concept of the spa and the traffic it sees, there is a pattern.

“There is no hard and fast rule and it does vary from business to business, but we tend to see renovations after 10-12 years,” says Graeme Banks, design director at Barr and Wray. Gerard McCarthy, sales director as Dalesauna, adds that “as a rule of thumb, when it comes to the type of equipment we would supply, you would probably be looking at about 8-10 years, in terms of shelf life”. Sue Harmsworth, founder of Espa, says that while they are also seeing redesigns come up after about a decade, this is affected by how you build your spa to begin with. “A spa is operational 12 hours a day and gets hammered by traffic and usage far more than a hotel bedroom, for example, so if you don’t have good quality finishes to begin with, you’re going to need to refurbish quicker,” she says. “I always try to explain that to my clients, and we use a lot of hard finishes in our spas, because they’re more durable. We’ve worked on some very high quality spas that are 15 years old and still looking good, whereas if you’ve used a design model with cheaper finishes, you’re looking at five, maybe six years.” g

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Planning points To get your redesign right you should, explains Rolf Glantz, head of architecture and design at Klafs, ensure you make the changes that are right for your business. “The planning phase should start with the question: what will the USP of my spa be?” he says. “The challenge for redesign projects is therefore to focus on ideas that are suitable to the positioning of the spa. Whatever you do should redefine the positioning of your spa.” Planning your project carefully, putting realistic timeframes and budgets in place, is also key to successful renovation work. “Time is an important element; don’t underestimate how long things will take,” McCarthy says. “Don’t underestimate the disruption the work will cause and build a little bit of comfort into your timescale, so you’re not promising users that the spa will be open on a certain date, and then disappointing them.” Adrian Egger, managing director of Thermarium, agrees that thorough planning is key. “Redesign needs to be seen as just as, if not even more, complex than developing a new concept, “ he explains. “You have limited possibilities, limited time and usually limited investment. A redesign needs to be planned properly and carefully to become a success.” Manufacturing off site and shipping items in is a system frequently used by Medical Spa and Wellness Group, previously known as Schletterer. “When we

“If the spa fully closes guests will go elsewhere and there is a chance they may not return. However, if you stay open guests will be inconvenienced and you run the risk of alienating them”

conduct a renovation, various elements are prefabricated in our construction plant, so that a large part of renovations can be performed during the night,” says the company’s founder Heinz Schletterer. “Consequently guests are not disturbed and with this method even bigger renovations can be completed after closing, or the closing time can be kept extremely short.”

Open for business? Whether or not to close during a redesign can be a complicated decision, one on which opinion differs. “It’s a difficult one and it really depends on the spa,” Banks says. “If the spa fully closes then guests will go elsewhere and there is a chance they may not return. However, if you renovate [and stay open] guests will be inconvenienced and you run the risk of alienating them,” he continues. “The ideal scenario is to try and keep the spa open, renovate outside spa working hours and try not to inconvenience guests.” Harmsworth, however, says that in her experience, it’s difficult to keep the spa open during a redesign. “I really find it difficult to renovate and keep an operation going, though obviously many people do try to do this, for financial reasons,” she says. “My view is that you can’t do any noisy work while treatments are being carried out, because that will irritate people and then you lose revenue, which negates having kept the spa open.” Harmsworth’s advice is to prepare yourself as well as possible for the renovation, closing

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the doors to the spa once everything’s in place. “You don’t close until you’re absolutely ready, but once you do, you work on it 24/7, with teams working round the clock,” she says. “By doing that you, in my experience, alienate far fewer people than if you try to keep it open.” For McCarthy, whether or not to stay open during renovations is a decision that should be made on a case-by-case basis. “It depends on the size of the project,” he says. “If you’re a larger facility, you might be able to board off one area at a time, renovating zone by zone and minimising the disruption to existing users,” he says. “But if you’ve got a relatively small space and you’re doing a lot of work, it [might be better] to close the whole facility for two weeks and just get it done. It depends very much on circumstances.”

Small changes, big impact It’s not only the quality of finishes that can affect how often you need to redesign but also the décor you opt for. In the view of the experts, less is definitely more when it comes to spa design. “Good design is not too fancy and is quite timeless, so that your spa stays modern for longer and doesn’t look old-fashioned after a few years,” Glantz says. “I’m not a fan of themed spas, because they date very quickly,” Harmsworth adds. “As concepts, they move on very quickly, but they’re also very fixed, so if you do want to move on from them, you’ve got to radically change.” Neville Brownhill, director of UK-based spa and wellness firm Atlam Design Worldwide, similarly advises spas not to get too carried away with trends. “Yes, you can go with what’s considered fashionable and cutting-edge at the time, but think about what that will

look like in 10 years’ time,” he says. “Will you be as happy with it then as you would have been with a more classic style? Probably not.” That doesn’t mean you can’t introduce standout design elements. “If we put a striking feature in, we might do it with lighting or put something on one wall – things you can change without having to change the whole room,” says McCarthy. Harmsworth suggests that updating less fixed features can be a good idea if you’re looking to refresh the appearance of your spa. “You can change paint colours or update your linens and uniforms and smaller decorations,” she says. Egger recommends spas to regularly implement smaller design changes, to keep things new and interesting in-between more complete, and by necessity more rare, redesigns. “There is a lot you can do to please clients between bigger redesigns; with slight adjustments such as colours and light,” he says. Bayes agrees that it’s important to offer your customers something new every now and then, to keep things exciting. “You need to create new stories, don’t you, to keep the interest up,” she says. While she explains that this could, for example,

“Redesign needs to be seen as just as, if not even more, complex than developing a new concept. You have limited possibilities, limited time and usually limited investment. It needs to be planned properly and carefully to become a success”

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mean “creating an amazing manicure/pedicure area”, it could also be something as simple as tidying up. “Treatments rooms, for example, need to be functional in terms of having lots of storage space, so they remain uncluttered and are easy to maintain, but it’s amazing how many don’t have enough storage,” she says, adding that at Sparcstudio they “always try to create as much as possible”. Echoing this, Harmsworth says: “Sometimes decluttering, a major deep clean and a lick of paint is all it needs, it can be as straightforward as that but make a huge difference.”

Redesign and repositions Not everyone is a fan of change, so could a redesign run the risk of driving away some of your clients? Possibly but, the experts advise, it’s not an overwhelming risk, and it’s one worth taking. “There is always a chance you could alienate existing clients, but the risk of this happening is very slim as you will always be renovating to improve the guest experience,” Banks says. A redesign could also be part of rebranding and repositioning your spa, in which case you might be willing, even find it necessary, to shed part of your client base. “A redesign can be a springboard for re-launching yourself into the market and as a marketing tool to create interest in the facility. This point of view is reinforced by Bayes, who comments that “you may want to reposition the spa anyway. Particularly hotels with spa memberships, because sometimes the membership is not that lucrative and you might want to make it more exclusive; refresh the membership and attract a new audience.”

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While architecture and design is undoubtedly important, it is of course only one of many elements that make up the concept and success of a spa and opinions vary on how important it is to keeping up with the competition and attracting and retaining customers. “Staying ahead of the competition is always a desire but with the fast-moving world in which we live now and the constant changes in trends, you could end up changing so often that you lose your identity,” Banks says. However, Glantz believes that regular design updates are essential to keeping your spa attractive to clients. “Even when the spa is up-to-date and in good shape we advice our clients to do something new every two years, so that they have something interesting to talk about,” he says, though he adds that this doesn’t mean “that you have to update the whole area”. Schletterer also believes that architecture and design is key to keeping up with and ideally staying head of what other spas are doing. “If nothing changes in the spa, it will still persist, but it will fall behind its competitors as trends move on,” he says. “So for most spas, adaptation is definitely a necessity.” This is something Brownhill agrees with, commenting that not keeping on top of your design could see you lose clients. “Refurbishment will always be necessary because losing the edge when it comes to décor can mean clients become less enthusiastic,” he says. It seems that in a market as competitive as today’s, spas cannot afford to be complacent in any area, and design is no exception. PB

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Ask the experts Our beauty professionals answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Having been in the beauty / hair industry for several years now, I’m looking for a new challenge and so I’m considering launching my own product collection. What factors do I need to consider in doing so? Your knowledge of the business: EIDEAL’s birth and success mainly go back to the fact that I had an extensive knowledge of the beauty industry. Experience in the field in which you are about to invest is crucial, especially because your time and money are on the line. That’s exactly why my first and most important advice would be for the person to get involved, in the field before fully immersing him/herself in it just to make sure that this is indeed what he/she wants to do. Your passion for the business: “Passion is the key to success” is not just a quote that you would read somewhere on your social media feed, it is reality! Doing something that you are really passionate about will get you where you want to be and might lead you to the unexpected! Passion will also help you deal with failures that are indeed part of the journey, without it, you will find yourself jumping from one thing to another and eventually going nowhere. The target market and profit: Financial capital is what we are all after, whether we admit this or not. Moral support and appreciation are definitely important but at the end of the day, you want to bring bread to the table. That’s why studying the market is what determines your business’ success or failure! There needs to be a demand for your product and people willing to buy it. Your capital: We always hear and read about success stories of people who started their business with a very little budget; however in most cases this is not

the norm when launching your own brand or line. A good budget will allow you to start off on the right track ensuring that you deliver a quality that’s better than what is in the market or at least as good. Our strategy and aim are to always offer the market something different, and that’s how you create a partnership built on trust with your clients. Competitors: An absolute monopoly is rare in our modern world. One must always keep competition in mind and use it as a drive to excel. I like to think of competition as an advantage rather than a drawback; I believe it is what keeps me going. Managing expectations: The beauty industry requires a lot of patience. One needs to manage his/her expectations in businesses that require buying and selling. When it comes to our industry, one must take into consideration the seasonal aspect of it and the difference in demand variations between one month and the other. There are months where you will witness an intense demand for your products, and others where the market will be in a complete hibernation mode. In a nutshell, I am not here to claim that starting one’s business is an easy task that can be done if you keep these factors in mind. However, using them as a guideline will definitely smooth out the process and will help any potential entrepreneur stay on the right track while focusing on the end result and the reason why he/she started in the first place.

Haysam Eid is the founder and managing director of EIDEAL. He began his career in hairdressing, honing his talents at Toni & Guy in London and also completing the prestigious L'Oréal Professionnel Color Specialist Degree. After majoring in Business Management, he went on to establish EIDEAL, which specialises in the manufacture and sale of products to professional hair salons and end-users.

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We are looking to introduce semi-permanent make-up services to our treatment menu, what should we do to ensure we are properly equipped to do so?

emi-permanent make-up gives an array of benefits that range from shortening the time spent applying cosmetics each day to helping clients with cosmetic and medical conditions. It is a long-term investment for both the salon and the clients. Semi-permanent make-up will enhance the appearance of eyebrows, eyes, lips and scalp, as well as camouflaging scars and other skin discolouration. This is achieved through a process in which an organic pigment is embedded beneath the skin to add colour. The procedure involves the use of a hand-held device that punctures the skin hundreds of times per minute with a very thin needle and pushes the pigment into the desired location. It is one of the most sought after beauty treatments today, especially from busy mums and working women. In fact semi-permanent make-up can benefit anybody of any age or complexion. Semi-permanent make-up is for people who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to spend time applying make-up all day long. It is a make-up treatment that will last for years. It is also designed to enrich a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s features and can give them a beautifully groomed look, day in, day out. Whether they are just waking up, swimming laps, or working up a sweat, their make-up will look perfect all the time. Semi-permanent make-up can last anything between two to four years, but this can depend on skin type, sun exposure and lifestyle. This is why we recommend to clients to have a top up treatment after several months to keep the look fresh and complete.

However effective and long-lasting results will depend not only on the quality of the product and skills of the technician, but also on the preand post-procedure care. Only the perfect balance between machine, needles, colour and application technique can achieve the correct result. Semi-permanent make-up is a luxury treatment that can be offered at any salon, clinic or spa. In order to be able to offer this service at your premises you first need to have trained and licensed staff. To become a semi-permanent makeup artist, you must be trained by a recognised and licensed training school that specialises in semi-permanent make-up. When choosing a training programme, I strongly recommend paying attention to the course curriculum, the theory, the practical and hands-on experience received. Furthermore, the school that you choose, if you are based in the UAE, must be licensed by the Knowledge and Human Development Authority (KHDA) and the Health Authority. Only through the KHDA will you be able to receive a license from the municipality to legally work as a semi-permanent make-up artist in this region. Semi-permanent make-up is a precision treatment; therefore it is vital to choose a recognised brand that adheres to the latest international standards within the cosmetic industry. To make it worthwhile, investigate only established semi-permanent makeup technicians and equipment that can help deliver superior results.

Oliyah Joseph is a fully qualified technician and master instructor in micropigmentation with over 10 years experience in the cosmetic industry. Initially trained and qualified in Russia, she achieved her master diploma in semi-permanent make-up three years ago at the Biotek Academy in Milan, Italy. Oliyah runs her own renowned beauty and training centre in Dubai.

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We are opening a new day spa before the end of the year and are looking for some tips on how to effectively recruit a talented team?

ecruiting a talented team is, in my view, the most important piece of the jigsaw for the success of a new spa business. I have always championed the idea that quality of treatments should be a much higher priority than luxury and location. My tips: Plan your HR budget and don’t press for the minimum spend – you get what you pay for! Don’t appoint too many employees pre-opening – build your team as bookings pick up keeping everyone busy from the start. Pay a good basic salary to encourage new employees to join your team. If business is not immediate they will worry a commission-based salary could be risky for them – make it known that this is likely to change when it becomes more profitable for all – which is an incentive in itself. Appoint a great team leader (spa manager) and you will have a happy work force. Ticking the finance and capability boxes for management – even with certificates of training – do not necessarily make for a "good" team leader. Whether the owner is managing or a manager is appointed, it is essential they are liked and they have the respect and trust of their team as well as the hands on ability to train. Spend time and, if necessary money, on finding this person first – they will then give guidance on recruiting the rest of the team. Advertise: Post individual ads for each job title rather than trying to attract a team via a general ad.

Tailor the ads accordingly – remember to sell the job as well as stating the required criteria for applicants. Give them some knowledge of the size, concept, products, salary and benefits – the more information they have the more likely they are to apply and be seriously interested in doing so. Shortlist: Though specific criteria must be met and checked, your gut feeling should not be ignored. Look at where they have previously worked and for how long – is their past experience in tune with your concept? Interview: If they cannot be met in person arrange a Skype interview. Do not “cold call” them, email them to arrange a time and give them a chance to check you out and prepare themselves – remember this is a two-way interview! I know managers who even watch trade tests over Skype and spot potential with further training on arrival. Check references: I am a firm believer in calling past employers and speaking with them directly. The contract: Make sure the contract is completely clear and that it covers your commitment to them as well as theirs to you. Show patience when explaining any unclear points. It should be read and signed before the arrival of the employee. Look after your team members and they will stay loyal to you and your business. Employees who are content don’t leave and instead they build you a good and regular client base.

Miranda Allard is chief executive officer (CEO) of recruitment agency Spa Staff.com, which she launched in 2000 after spotting a gap in the market. In addition to her role as CEO, which often sees her advising employers on special recruitment needs, Miranda has been involved in spa marketing, consultancy, international judging and has written several pieces in the media as a spa expert.

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Hello summer

Maria Dowling discusses “summer proofing” your business, starting now

’ve only just packed away my winter wardrobe (even in Dubai we do have winter wardrobes!) and I’m already hearing clients talk about their summer holidays and bemoaning “what they will they do without me for eight weeks!” Although the salon remains well and truly open throughout the summer months and beyond, there is a definite change in the vibe, purely because so many of our fellow Dubaians tend to jet off to foreign climes to escape the heat. In terms of your business, planning for the summer should have started already, and if you haven’t started by now, then today’s the day. Take a look at my five pre-summer considerations to keep business booming whatever the weather.

Planning the hairstyles

I start talking to my clients about their thoughts for summer styles and colours quite early in the year. Low maintenance colour and cuts seem the most popular. Fringes (bangs) that have looked amazing over the winter months are generally not a good idea in the heat and humidity of the summer. If you’ve gone for the chop in November, think about growing it long enough to tie back when you get to June. Many of our clients keep the same styles come rain, shine or humidity but I think it’s the job of a stylist/beauty therapist to put the idea out there in more than enough time to do something about it.

Buy for retail

Staff holidays

Our retail mix over the summer does change – ideally we want to bring in more SPF products, treatment conditioners, sun sprays, mini sizes – all the things your customers may be likely to need over the summer months. Bearing in mind that by October, everyone is starting to think about winter hair again, we keep the buying quantities small. So talk to your suppliers now to see if they have any seasonal retail products that would suit.

The team at mariadowling tends to split its holidays throughout the year but a large chunk of these holiday days are taken in the summer. It’s often a good time to encourage staff to book their holidays but beware of the classic assumption that summer is going to be quiet, before finding that it’s a busy period and you’re short staffed! I find that the end of July and beginning of August is quieter for us whereas near the end of August people start returning as the schools go back, so I prefer not to have too many stylists off in those last two weeks.

Fill those appointment books

Summer promotions – are they a good thing?

Start planning ahead for your clients and get those summer appointment books filled. While our team is really good at preparing their clients for future appointment bookings, I still want to ensure that when I look at the appointment book for one or two months down the line, it is at least 50 per cent full with re-bookings. This gives us an idea of our turnover forecasts and allows us to plan for stock purchasing, staffing etc.Plus it’s comforting to know that you still have a business, come the summer months!

For me, the jury is out on summer promotions. As a salon, we don’t do many promotions but that’s not to say they aren’t effective when done well. Sometimes clients who are still in the country need a little encouragement to leave their sofas and come into the salon more often than they would normally. However, be careful not to cheapen your brand or attract the “serial promotions clients”. These clients are the ones who only visit a salon with a promotion/discount/buyone-get-one-free offer. They are rarely loyal and will jump to the next salon when your offer ends. I believe what really works for a salon is to promote value-added treatments or competitions such as “win a day of pampering”. The most important thing to remember with promotions is to keep them short and make sure they end before your regular clients start to return.PB

Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call +971 4 345 42 25.

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The nitty-gritty of nail polish Sonette van Rensburg takes an in-depth look at the technology behind nail polishes, and what sets them apart from one another

any questions have been raised lately around the safety of nail polishes and the ingredients therein, as consumers become far more aware. Brands are constantly competing with one another in order to produce the best polish on the market, with just the right combination of chemical ingredients to ensure that a formula offers all the qualities a good professional nail polish should: full coverage, chipresistant, extended wear, superior shine, and an overall flawless finish. However, there is so much confusion and misunderstanding about chemical safety and toxicity, you may find yourself facing questions from a misinformed customer. Questions raised may include, “Is there formaldehyde, toluene or dibutyl phthalate in the product?” And customers will expect you to give an informed answer.

Ingredients Most nail polishes consist of a combination of: • Pigment – used to create and add colour and also assists with coverage. • Film-former – assists in making the polish durable and shiny. The most common film-former is nitrocellulose. An interesting fact is that the film for old-fashioned black-and-white movies is made of nitrocellulose. g

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41 • Resin – makes polish tough and resilient. • Tosylamide – very commonly used in most nail polish brands. • Solvent – most brands use a combination of butyl acetate, ethyl acetate and toluene for easy application. Solvents are also used in nail polish removers. • Clay – aids with suspension and helps to keep the ingredients mixed and makes polish easier to apply. • Plasticiser – helps with preventing chips and cracks. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) has been used for many decades as a nail polish plasticiser. It is also used in soft toys, baby bottles and tubes for dispensing food and medicine. • UV stabiliser – prevents sun and light from fading or changing the colour. Do most professional salon brands contain the same ingredients? Mostly they do, however each manufacturer differs in the quantities of ingredients and solvents they add to their product. These ingredients have been used by nail polish brands for decades now. The same primary ingredients are used in most base and top coats, with the exception of clays and pigments.

Are nail polishes safe?

Nail polish products have been used safely for decades, by many women across the globe. The natural nail is made up of keratin, a non-living hard durable substance that is oil and moisture-loving. Nail polish dries to a hard durable surface, and, once the ingredients in the polish become embedded in the hardened film coating, they are not absorbed by the body or released into the environment. Most polishes are a combination of plasticisers, resins, UV stabilisers and solvents to give a high-quality, high-shine and chip-free product. Plasticisers are additives that maintain the flexibility of resins after they have dried. They are a sort of a molecular “lubricant”, which make the resin less vulnerable to chipping. Resins are a type of polymer that holds the polish together. They are composed of giant molecules that are made by linking smaller molecules into long chains and networks. After the polish has been applied, the solvent component of the polish evaporates to leave behind a smooth, hard coat of lacquer. Because it evaporates, the solvent is responsible for the strong odour that polishes emit. Solvents must be compatible with resins, so that the resins can be evenly spread on the nail. Those solvents that evaporate too slowly or too quickly can ruin the lacquer or cause bubbling. UV stabilisers are additives that help keep

lacquers from changing colour when exposed to too much UV light from the sun.

The truth about formaldehyde Internationally renowned product chemist Douglas D Schoon believes that some advocacy groups globally are incorrectly claiming that formaldehyde is an ingredient in cosmetics. “They are even loudly proclaiming that formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and are demanding that manufacturers remove this cancer-causing ingredient from cosmetics,” says Schoon. “Actually, if these groups understood formaldehyde’s basic chemistry, they would see their claims are absolutely wrong. They’d also know that formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient and never has been. “Advocacy groups incorrectly claim that formaldehyde is an ingredient found in nail hardeners, and nail polishes. So, how can I be so sure that formaldehyde has never been a cosmetic ingredient? Because formaldehyde is a gas, not a liquid or a solid. A gas cannot be added to cosmetics as an ingredient, since it would rapidly escape from the product.” Schoon notes that formaldehyde is a naturally occurring gas that must be kept absolutely bone dry. In the presence of even tiny amounts of moisture, it instantly transforms into completely different substances. “This is why it quickly breaks down and doesn’t accumulate in the environment. As you can imagine, this is yet another reason why formaldehyde can’t be used in cosmetics; it wouldn’t be stable for more than 1000th of a second after contact with moisture.” How did this misunderstanding begin? Sometime in the early 1900s, formaldehyde manufacturers began mixing this gas with water to create a liquid substance called “formalin”. “These manufacturers mistakenly assumed that the added formaldehyde was simply dissolving in the water and this is how formalin was sold. They didn’t realise that formaldehyde does not dissolve in water, but instead instantly reacts with the water to change into a completely new and different substance called methylene glycol, which belongs to an entirely separate chemical family.” PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for over 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills.

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Shades of success Our new columnist Eryca Freemantle gives us top tips for succeeding in the make-up industry

ack in February I had a life changing experience. I was invited to the Professional Beauty Show GCC in Dubai, not just to be a speaker but to be an ambassador for Professional Beauty. Why was it life changing? I had not been to Dubai before and I felt privileged to be among such industry experts. This experience has inspired me to want to work in the GCC and be part of the emerging beauty industry. For those who didn’t attend my talk, a little more about me. My official title is “global beauty industry strategist”. What does this mean? My team and I work on major campaigns within the beauty industry analysing and anticipating trends and demands. We educate and train both professionals and beginners in how to become successful in the world of make-up. I have been a “beautyprenuer” and educator for a long time – I have seen the industry evolve with many changes. Education and retraining is imperative for a practitioner to stay abreast. We at Eryca Freemantle

are very proud to be one of the market leaders and agents of change. We have a new global campaign “Embracing All Tones of Women” out of the UK, which is about to go global and encourages make-up artists and beauticians to retrain and become aware of opportunities with newfound knowledge. We offer programmes, competitions, business development, networks and short courses, which give therapists the opportunity to increase their profits through our various platforms. I’d like to share our top tips for aspiring make-up artists in the GCC. g

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Your name is your brand

Relationships

In the beauty industry it is imperative to protect your name, there is nowhere to hide once your name is tarnished. Remember to be professional at all times, deliver and be reliable.

Your network is your net worth. It is important to learn how to nurture relationships and not expect all promises to manifest. Partnerships and alignments are great ways to grow your business. Networking events such as beauty shows and exhibitions are great platforms to meet others within the industry. At such events, be prepared, have your one-minute pitch ready, have your business cards, be ready for the unexpected, be confident and most of all enjoy the moment. Online beauty forums are becoming very popular, this is a softer way to meet others who can support you with your business. It can be a lifeline to the beauty community especially if you are too busy to attend the major shows.

Embrace all tones of women

Perfect the art of make-up for different skin tones. It is important that all artists are able to perfect the art of make-up or skincare application for any client with confidence. After market research, we found 75 per cent of therapists are nervous and reluctant to work on skin tones that are not their own. This must change and fortunately we offer professionals the opportunity to become educated through our short courses. We often collaborate with make-up schools, hairdressing academies and beauty establishments where we offer our master courses and consultancy services. The world is becoming smaller, and is often referred to as a global village. That is exactly how you should view your skills. Ask yourself if your business can truly cater for all skin tones? I can’t emphasise this enough – we in the industry should see things in tones and hues and not ethnicities.

“After market research, we found 75 per cent of therapists are nervous and reluctant to work on skin tones that are not their own”

The importance of training and up-skilling

It is essential to keep testing and refreshing your skills, meeting and mixing with other peers in the industry. If you are not careful the beauty industry will eat you alive. You can get caught up in the glitz and glamour and not make any profits. Many have fallen by the wayside simply because they didn’t or don’t have a plan. It is very hard to not want to be able to do everything. Continual training and honing your skills is the only way forward in order to grow your business. Every two years, you should look at your business and assess your weak areas and also consider embarking on something new. It is a hard and painful process – I know because we’ve just revaluated our business recently. Once you decide what you want to train or retrain in, it is important that you do your research and get a greater understanding of your chosen course. How will you benefit? What will you achieve? Remember make-up is not just about the art, there are thousands upon thousands of great people who can apply make-up – just look at Instagram. Make-up is serious business. PB

For further conversations with Eryca, whether you are a make-up or skincare brand or you are interested in her courses, please email info@erycafreemantle.com or visit www.erycafreemantle.com T: @erycafreemantle

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The eyes have it... It’s all about the eyes at Aspire Beauty Trading as the company launches a new range of products and treatments aimed at prettifying peepers

ith lashes and brows seeing the largest growth within the beauty industry over the last 18 months, we take a look at the newest ranges launched in the region. “It’s now time to be part of the Lash and Brow revolution and Aspire Beauty Trading has

many great solutions for salons and spas,” said Claire Gittus managing direction at Aspire Beauty Trading. Her new lines includes the Hairwell Eyelash and Eyebrow tinting, Love Lashes by Mii - Loved by You, Peek A Boo Lashes and Brows by Mii. Gittus explains the benefits of each:

Hairwell Eyelash and Eyebrow tinting These products from Europe are a high quality range which is competitively priced (starting from only AED22). The range includes a new shade of light brown and all our tubes of tint come in 20ml rather than the normal 15ml and we have a cream developer rather than liquid, giving a rich intense long lasting colour.

Love Lashes by Mii - Loved by You These handmade silk lashes are durable and reusable and come in six different formats: Simply Charming - A naturally delicate hint to keep them guessing Truly Elegant - Hold your gaze with grace and sophistication Seductress - Pair with a smokey eye for a smouldering look Social Butterfly - An unforgettable flutter for every occasion Drama Queen - Eye opening, jaw dropping and heart stopping Little Lifts - Mini lash boosters for an elegant flick in an instant This capsule collection also comes on an attractive stand.

Peek A Boo Lashes A lifting treatment for natural lashes. Using a combination of advanced technology and quality ingredients this professional treatment lifts the lashes from the root, sets the lashes in the new lifted position and curls the lashes opening up the eye, and gives extra volume with a colour boost. This is a fantastic treatment that takes 60 minutes and lasts 6-8 weeks with no maintenance and no aftercare.

BROW by Mii A bespoke brow treatment that works in seven steps to create the perfect brow. From the consultation stage, the client is taken through a step-by-step service making sure she leaves with perfect and symmetrical brows, enhancing her natural beauty. To complement this professional service, we have a collection of finishing products on a eye-catching retail display stand, perfect for any retail area. For more details call Aspire Beauty Trading on +971 4 347 8055 / 971 50 468 6406

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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

Individual Player STROBING AND TEXTURE TAKES CENTRE STAGE THIS SPRING

First Impression

Feminine Spirit

HOW TO CAPITALISE ON YOUR RECEPTION AREA

STYLES AND COLOURS FOR ANOTHER WORLD

Note from the Editor

esearch shows it takes just seconds for someone to decide what they think about you – whether they think you are friendly, professional, rude or unapproachable. First impressions can make or break a business, and creating a good one is easier than you think. It all starts with the service you offer before the client has even stepped through your door – the tone of the receptionist on the phone; the eye-catching window display and the design of your website. With so many salons on the high street it’s essential you stand head and shoulders above the competition and ensuring clients feel welcomed by a friendly team is guaranteed to attract a new clientele. Never underestimate your front of house team. But

it doesn’t stop there – the layout of your salon should mean it’s an easy client journey, retail should be accessible and a friendly junior can make all the difference. Think you are offering all of this? Why not get a friend to act as a client and give feedback on their experience? Or take the client journey yourself? The reception area is the most used area in the salon so it’s worth investing time, money and attention on this important zone. Thanks, Ruth

May 2016

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SPA DESIGN • NAILS • BESPOKE MENUS • RECEPTION SKILLS

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Our guide to spring nails

Greatest of gatherings

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Why Profes sio 2016 was the nal Beauty place to be

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madetomeasur e nailnittygritty nitty nittygritty The story behind truly bespoke spa menus

Is it time to redesign your spa?

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STROBING AND TEXTURE TAKE CENTRE STAGE THIS SPRING

INDIVIDUAL players May 2016

“Add lightness and depth with a palette of watercolour shades and then mess it up with the latest mineral formulas. It’s all about individuality and playfulness.” JAMIE STEVENS

May 2016

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STYLES AND COLOURS FOR ANOTHER WORLD

FEMININE SPIRIT May 2016

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“We wanted to showcase an eclectic mix of bold and delicate colours which collide with soft dreamy textures. The energy is feminine, unpredictable and elegant with a ghostly spirit.” ROYSTON BLYTHE

May 2016

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HAIR: ROYSTON BLYTHE AND CHARLES DOUEK AT ROYSTON BLYTHE, SHREWSBURY PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD MILES

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May 2016

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Just the business As the spa at the new Four Seasons in Dubai’s Financial Centre opens, Fiona Vlemmiks discovers what it takes to create the perfect bespoke spa menu

mong the myriad decisions to be made when opening a spa, crafting the perfect treatment menu is arguably one of the most important. Location, facilities and the clientele drive the direction of the menu and the higher the level of differentiation, the greater the chance of a spa’s success. Yet in a place like Dubai, where there is an abundance of five and even six star hotels, boasting spectacular spas, offering something unique can be a challenge to say the least. Following her success steering the opening of The Four Seasons' Pearl Spa at Jumeirah Beach Dubai, director of spa, Hayley Bluett was tasked with overseeing the opening of the hotel chain’s new spa in DIFC a smaller, five-treatment room facility aimed primarily at business travellers. When sourcing brands to work in partnership with the spa, she was certain that she wanted a brand that could offer a truly bespoke and original treatment menu.

“It is paramount to have bespoke treatments in a spa menu. This is our differentiator,” she says. “The pursuit of differentiation and guest enrichment were both catalysts for our profound spa wellness journey.  It is now widely acknowledged that ‘differentiation’ is critical in determining the industry's winners and in gaining a loyal customer base.” Since Bluett was also looking for a brand that mirrored the Four Seasons' ethical stance on sustainability African brand Terres d’Afrique was deemed the perfect fit, “We chose Terres d’ Afrique as the company ties in so well with our Four Seasons philosophy," Bluett explains. “The brand is organic and the company believes in sustainability. “Aiming to be carbon neutral is the basis of their operations, an ideal they aim for in every decision that they make, principally thinking ethically and working sustainably. They believe in fair trade, by doing this, Terres d’ Afrique accelerates job creation,

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spa focus

improves and transforms the livelihood of so many and uplifts communities. Interestingly, it also has a positive impact on the environment.”

The making of a menu The spa at DIFC is positioned as an authentic lifestyle spa with a sleek and contemporary design and houses five treatment rooms including a couples’ treatment room. The first step in the menu creation was for Helary to consider the spa’s demographic, location, philosophy and goals before marrying these with relevant treatments and products. Bluett says “Stephan from Terres d’Afrique carefully hand picked all the ingredients for our bespoke treatments. He created three distinctive treatment selections, tailored to our guest demographic. We have called these The Four Seasons Elements: "Recharge, Revitalise and Release". By choosing treatments under these selections, the guest will embark on a spa journey tailored to their every need. He also created our Signature Massage, called The Signature Blue Tigers Eye Massage, we use a combination of warm and cool Blue Tigers eye crystals and use a very special signature tool which smoothly and firmly glides over every contour of the body, releasing blocked energy and soothes away aching muscles.” In total, 16 different treatments were created exclusively for the new spa and to further add to the

spa’s drive for differentiation, several products were also created. “With many spas in Dubai providing similar products due to the very rigid registration laws, the strength of our proprietary product ranges and our bespoke treatments are the determining factor in our competitive position,” explained Bluett. “It is very important to create a truly unique holistic and rejuvenating wellness experience for our spa guest, we do this by adding exclusive products and treatments to our service offerings.” The spa, which opened in March, is now, it seems, reaping the rewards of such careful product and menu selection. “Our spa guests have been very receptive to the brand, says Bluett. “Our customer base is very wellness-focused, they have a genuine interest in living a healthy lifestyle – health and wellness is a major life focus for them. They too are driven by sustainability, authenticity and seek local sources that embrace holistic and integrated approaches to health. They take a keen interest in environmental and sustainability issues, they recognise that personal, social, and planetary well-being are all interconnected. That is why the brand is doing so well here. They would rather opt for a brand that has a very strong focus on these principles than a brand that does not.” PB For more information on Terres d’Afrique please contact The Product House +971 4 379 19 66

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Fashion forward Professional Beauty discusses the business benefits of partnering with events such as Fashion Forward with EIDEAL’s Haysam Eid

ashion Forward Fall/Winter 2016 took place last month at the very trendy Dubai Design District. As ever, the event was well attended by the region’s top fashion media, bloggers, influencers and fashionistas and was a fabulous platform for its carefully selected partners to enhance their brand profile. One such partner was EIDEAL who was named as the exclusive premium hair tools sponsor of Fashion Forward’s seventh season. The EIDEAL tools were being used backstage in all halls to create and bring the hairstyles the fashion designers had in mind to life. “The collaboration started last year, when EIDEAL was contacted by Fashion Forward and we were invited to be the official hair tools sponsor of season six,” says Haysam Eid, managing director of EIDEAL. “Due to last year’s successful partnership, and since Fashion Forward is the most anticipated fashion event in the region, we decided to also take part in it this year. Since its launch, EIDEAL has worked hard to establish itself as more than just a brand of hair tools and participating in high-profile events such as Fashion Forward has definitely helped them achieve this lofty aim. “EIDEAL is a high-end lifestyle brand that people in the region are starting to recognise and relate to,” says Eid. “We try to be selective when it comes to the events that we participate in, however when the right opportunity knocks, we grasp it without any hesitation and this was certainly the case with Fashion Forward.” Indeed, as Eid acknowledges, EIDEAL’s presence at Fashion Forward has shed light on the brand and enhanced its reputation among key media, influencers and also professional hairstylists. “Our presence backstage raised awareness amongst notable people within the beauty industry,” says Eid. “In fact, a lot of journalists were intrigued by all of the hairstyles and were interviewing the senior hairstylists backstage. Since EIDEAL’s tools were the only ones being used, the brand got great coverage on shows such as Style by Aline Watfa on MBC.” g

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71 As part of its partnership with Fashion Forward, EIDEAL’s presence is usually supported by a video that plays on all of the event’s screens and which showcases the brand’s latest beauty campaign, something that Eid admits is a really useful marketing tool. “We grasped the bloggers’ attention through our video which definitely triggered their interest about EIDEAL because it was more a beauty/fashion campaign rather than a commercial about hair tools,” says Eid. “This video is perfectly in sync with Fashion Forward’s fashionable and trendy vibe and this is one of the main reasons why EIDEAL and Fashion Forward are so compatible.” Eid believes that offering the brand’s partner salons the opportunity to be involved in one of the UAE’s most recognisable events enables them to forge even stronger partnerships. “Our salon partners really appreciate our participation at such events. They feel proud and reassured that they are indeed with the right partners. It warms our heart to hear their positive feedback and encouragement. We also like to get them involved with us whenever there’s a chance. In addition to this, we make sure to invite them to the event for us to share the success together.” Although most of the professional hairstylists working backstage were already familiar with EIDEAL and loyal to it, thanks to Fashion Forward, EIDEAL has forged new relationships with salon professionals. “Those who were not familiar with EIDEAL really loved the brand and will definitely start using it,” says Eid. “We are already in touch with the new salons that were introduced to EIDEAL at Fashion Forward and they are in the process of becoming our salon partners. Our ad in the Fashion Forward booklet also definitely played a major role since everyone had it in hand to check the schedule and sponsors.” Being part of an event such as Fashion Forward also allows the young brand to push its boundaries. “Getting involved in such events takes EIDEAL to a new level especially when it comes to the scope of our

work,” says Eid. “We always like to step up our game and stay ahead. Our participation in such an event definitely allows us to do so.” Hot on the heels of its Fashion Forward success, EIDEAL is lined up to showcase at the forthcoming Beautyworld Middle East (BWME), due to take place from 15 -17 May in Dubai. “At BWME, we will be launching new products and we will be introducing a major brand to the region, which I am sure will be a big hit within the industry,” says Eid. “This year, our stand cannot but attract the visitors. We worked really hard on the unique design and I am sure that it will grasp everyone’s attention. It is not to be missed! We are also going to spice things up and do something that we had never done during our previous participations.” And participation in BWME is not the only exciting venture that the ambitious brand is planning. “We are in the process of organising a really huge programme that will be taking place for the first time ever in the Middle East and which will target the professional hairstylists’ community,” says Eid. With so much happening, it’s not surprising this innovative brand is popping up on the hair industry radar. PB

For more information visit www.eideal.com

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

business trends

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

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treatment news

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Perfectly polished This month we tried... Kerasilk Repower Treatment at Orchid Beauty Boutique, Sharjah Ladies Club & Gloss, Dubai The lowdown: Kerasilk is a new premium line of products and treatments from Goldwell. The treatments can be customised to meet the individual needs of each client, with the range split into four key categories: Repower, Control, Reconstruct and Colour. Repower is designed to volumise hair, Control to smooth and reduce frizz, Reconstruct to repair damaged or poorly conditioned hair and Colour to enhance the shine and longevity of coloured hair. Utilising high-end ingredients, the treatments can last up to 10 washes when combined with using the recommended retail range at home. PB says: My treatment begins with a consultation, in my case by Claude, the head trainer for Madi International, but normally a hairdresser would do the assessment. After discussing my haircare routine and any concerns I have, Claude examines my hair before prescribing a Repower treatment. Although she notes that I have some frizziness and a little dryness at the ends, the main concerns lie with the fineness and lack of body in my hair. The Repower range incorporates keratin and elastin which will add body to my hair; furthermore it has Procapil™ and t-Flavanone to add density and strength. Following the consultation my hair is washed using the Repower Volume Shampoo, next the Repower Intensive Volume Treatment is applied using a brush and with the majority of the product directed towards the root

and top half of my hair before being combed through to the ends. This is left on for between 10-20 minutes before being rinsed from my hair and the Repower Volume Intensifying Post Treatment applied. The stylist then blast dries my hair, applying a Repower Volume Blow Dry Spray before styling and finishing the blow dry. A final spritz of finishing spray is used before the dramatic results are revealed. Not only does my hair boast incredible volume but it feels delightfully soft and looks super shiny. For such a quick treatment I’m impressed by the amount of body that has been injected into my hair, which also feels bouncy and lightweight. I continue using the Repower Shampoo at home and my hair retains the shine, softness, improved density and body – though not quite the same height. I get to experience this same treatment twice, just a few weeks apart, with different stylists and the Repower range is used both times – as the requirements for my hair haven’t changed – and it provides a great opportunity to identify any slight differences in how my hair looks or feels. Encouragingly, the treatment process is identical, and in terms of texture and volume, my hair is also the same. The only significant difference comes in the actual blow-dry styling, with each stylist opting for their own take on the finished look. All in all a fabulous hair makeover in a short timeframe. Tested by: Zoe Moleshead

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

business trends

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

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treatment news

This month we tried... Signature Manicure at Kure Beauty and Spa The lowdown: Giving a new take on the concept of a manicure, Kure has customised its nail treatments by introducing sumptuous nail oils that are designed to hydrate nails and cuticles leaving them silky and refreshed. Furthermore, the oil is selected based on the time of day of your treatment. PB says: Both a spa and a retail outlet, Kure is dedicated to using [and retailing] only organic or natural products. All its treatment utilise products of this origin or Kure’s own handmade essential oils. Entering the spa, I’m struck by the design of the space. The colour palette is delightfully neutral with less than a handful of colours evident, the area looks incredibly clean and fresh, the overall ambience feels very fitting for a spa whose premise is centred around natural and organic elements. My therapist explains to me that they use five different oils in nail treatments, with the time of day dictating the oil that is used. Among the oil choices are Wake Up, Energy, D-Stress, Basic and Blow Away – the latter of which is selected for me as I’m visiting the spa late afternoon / early evening. Blow Away has an almond oil base and is blended together with rose oil, it is designed to reinvigorate, revitalise and refresh after a hectic day. The oil’s aroma is subtle and pleasant and it is infused throughout the creams or products that are used in the nail treatment. The nail polishes are by Smith and Cult, a range which Kure founder Myriam Sarfati tells me she sought long and hard to find, and are five-free, meaning they have been formulated without dibutyl, phthalate, toluene, formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin and camphor. The therapist helps me to select a colour asking whether I am looking for a light or dark shade, I opt for a colour that looks like a soft beige in the bottle, but on the nail provides an

almost transparent finish, it’s a near-perfect match for my natural nail colour, and exactly what I was looking for. The Smith and Cult polishes, I’m told, were also chosen for their long-lasting results, something which can be more challenging to achieve with five-free ranges. The therapist has a decidedly gentle touch as she carries out the manicure and this is echoed in her light-handedness in tending my cuticles, trimming away only the smallest amounts. The treatment is relaxing and pleasant and the finish exactly what I was looking for. Days later the polish is holding true to its word, remaining unchipped and in tact. Impressed with the results, I’d certainly be happy to return, probably at a different time of day to experience one of the other oils. Tested by: Zoe Moleshead

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

product news

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Cream of the crop Check out our top product picks and new launches for May Quattro g The QP-10 professional cordless hair trimmer promises to take hair styling to the next level. The ultra-close 0.3mm cutting feature with a sharp accuracy blade can create many patterns and designs. The trimmer is comfortable to use thanks to its featherlight weight and ergonomic design and you can select your favourite colour out of the eight available. Call + 971 4 338 27 73

Omorovicza f The Gold Night Drops work in three stages to resurface wrinkles, repair and strengthen, and hydrate and nourish the skin at night when skin is most receptive to healing. The star ingredient is gold, a powerful anti-inflammatory that repairs accumulated micro-damage and strengthens the skin. Other active ingredients include Vitamin A (encapsulated retinol) to resurface fine lines and wrinkles and vitamin C to brighten, tone and help reduce the appearance of age spots. The product also contains Omega 6 Ceramide to retexture the lipid matrix for a stronger barrier function and the patented Hydro Mineral Transference system which delivers minerals to leave skin firmer, more supple and younger-looking. Call +971 4 379 19 66

Eminence g Rosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil is a nourishing, hydrating and firming facial oil designed for all skin types. It can help to increase collagen production, reduce inflammation and soothe the skin. The oil is packed with botanical sources of vitamins C and E, including rosehip, jojoba and seabuckthorn oils, which help to fight against free radicals caused by UV exposure and the effects of glycation. Call +971 4 220 60 24

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

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77 Zoya g The nail brand has unveiled its spring collection which includes a range of pretty colours inspired by seasonal florals. Laurel and Azalea are shades of pink, while Zahara is a shimmering coral with an opalescent effect and Tulip a pastel salmon cream. Finally Aster is a periwinkle-inspired colour with flecks of fuchsia, and Leia is an opalescent white with hints of fuchsia, green and gold. All the polishes are five-free and vegan-friendly too. Call +971 4 220 60 24

Carol Joy f For Ever cream is a rich, anti-ageing moisturiser that is potent yet nourishing. It intensively hydrates, plumping fine lines and wrinkles for a smoother, radiant complexion with refined Golden Millet Oil that regenerates the epidermis, boosts moisture, and protects the skin's barrier. The product’s Peptide Collagen Booster also helps stimulate collagen, diminishes lines and firms. For Ever cream is suitable for all skin types, especially dry or dehydrated skin. Call + 971 4 379 19 66

Gharieni g With a large storage-space integrated into the base of the table, the new Gharieni MLW Space can stow two hot-cabins, towels, blankets and much more. Like all other Gharieni MLW models, the spa table is technically well-equipped, the two lifting columns adjust the height and also the angle of inclination up to the “Trendelenburg” position, a “zero-gravity” angle offering optimal relaxation. The bed is equipped with soft PU upholstery and synthetic leather upholsteries are also available in a variety of colours and a wide range of decors to enable you to design your MLW Space to fit perfectly into your studio or spa. Call +971 4 276 67 34

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

product news

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78 Liane K g The VL1 Oxygen Filler is a new method and device, introduced by Liane K, to create silky, shiny hair. A layer of oxygen is applied on the scalp and hair, followed by a delivery of protein and collagen, providing a solution to hair loss, dandruff, split ends and damaged hair in just 15 minutes. The VL1 Oxygen Filler method allows hairdressers to give enhanced results when used in combination with cutting and styling, colour, de-colouration and other services. To see for yourself, book an in-salon demo. Call +971 4 441 88 74

Kerstin Florian f The Organic Neroli Blossom Bath and Body Oil employs essential oils to uplift and renew the spirit. Neroli and rosemary combine in this lightweight blend, which also contains organic coconut, jojoba, meadowfoam and sunflower oils to deeply nourish and soften the skin. Derived from the fragrant petals of the Bitter Orange Blossom, Neroli has long been valued in aromatherapy for its calming and relaxing scent, which eases anxiety, depression and the stress response as well as insomnia, heart palpitations and digestive issues. Call +971 4 379 19 66

Cloud Nine g The O is a ground-breaking innovation in professional styling, creating incredible volume in an instant. The O Pod heats up the soft-grip rollers in less than four seconds and thanks to the unique induction technology, the rollers heat from the core. The rollers get hot in the hair, not in your hand, allowing you to position the rollers precisely and easily and creating hair thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s full of body, volume and texture. Call + 971 4 338 27 73

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

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Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

diary dates

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Diary dates 1-3 JUNE COSMOBEAUTÉ MYANMAR Novotel Yangon Max, Yangon, Myanmar Now entering its third year, the latest edition of this event is moving to a new location, which has been selected for its enhanced facilities and convenience, and close proximity to the airport. Drawing exhibitors from across the globe, the show will once again be targeting beauty salon and spa owners. www.cosmobeauteasia.com/ index.php/myanmar

3-5 JUNE INTERNATIONAL MAKE-UP ARTIST TRADE SHOW LONDON Olympia National, London, UK Bringing together international make-up artists, this show combines education, demonstrations and an exhibition, with many leading artists from fashion and film showcasing their talents. Adding to the engaging line-up for this event is a student competition – Battle of the Brushes, and a Make-Up Museum. www.imats.net/2016-london/

8-9 JUNE COSMETIC BUSINESS MOC Munich, Munich, Germany This exhibition features around 400 suppliers whose focus ranges from raw materials to manufacturing and packaging of cosmetics. A specialist professional programme will also offer lectures designed to inspire the product creation process. cosmetic-business.com/tradefair/en 8-11 JUNE NATURALTECH Bienal do Ibirapuera, Sao Paulo, Brazil Focusing on natural products for the beauty, health, food and sport sectors, the exhibition is open exclusively to trade visitors on the first two days, while the latter two days are also open to the public. www.naturaltech.com.br

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016

9-10 JUNE MAKEUP IN PARIS Carrousel du Louvre, Paris, France Suppliers and trendsetters unite for this event showcasing the latest innovations in the make-up world. Products and advice will be offered on everything from ingredients and pigments to formulation and packaging. Special B2B networking events will also take place over the two days. makeup-in-paris.com/paris-en/ 25-27 JUNE INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW, LAS VEGAS Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, US Targeting salon owners, managers and beauty professionals, this show brings together over 350 exhibitors displaying their latest and greatest products. An educational programme featuring free classes, hands-on workshops and masterclasses runs alongside the show, as do a series of competitions for nails, hair and lashes. www.ibslasvegas.com/

Don’t miss... 12-13 JUNE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN Durban ICC, Durban, South Africa Professional Beauty turns its focus to Durban this month, with the second of its three annual South African shows taking place. This event will provide a fantastic platform to network and source suppliers. Alongside a Vibrant Retail Area, exhibitors will be showcasing products ranging from skincare, equipment, software, nails, make-up, tanning and much more. www.probeauty.co.za/

SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae