Professional Beauty GCC - April 2018

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April 2018

For your beauty, hair and spa business ‫ هي مجلة متخصصة يف قطاع الجامل والشعر والسبا‬Professional Beauty GCC ‫مجلة‬

GCC

Talking to... WILL STEIN

Show of STRENGTH Behind the scenes at Professional Beauty GCC 2018

catwalk to FROM

V word

NAIL BAR

2018 nail trends fresh from the catwalks revealed OFC PBGCC APR18.indd 3

THE

We explore the vegan beauty hype

‫لغة‬ ‫ن بال بية‬ ‫اآل لعر‬ ‫ا‬

One-to-one with founder of Philip Stein on the importance of wellness

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As beautique cosmetics intl. continues its expansion in Dubai with its recent acquisition of Rapid General Trading and the brand new showroom just a month shy of opening, the Kuwait & Dubai team took on Professional Beauty for the second year and this 2018 installment paved the road further up for beloved brands Tangle Teezer, Invisibobble, KeraStraight, INNOluxe & Cuccio.

Jez took it to another level on Day 2 as he presented on the mainstage, showing the audience a whole selection of before and afters of unruly manes having been transformed into glossy, enviable hair. Sara spoke about her main concerns as she has tackled her frizz through a number of treatments previously, only to come back to the one that truly made a difference - KeraStraight The INNOluxe #saved Campaign Video played on screen as the second model joined the stage to show-off her brand new balayage that proved to leave her hair smoother than ever with the use of INNOluxe in the colouring process & one pump of INNOluxe’s Elixir as a final touch.

The beautique stand was quite the showstopper. There was no missing it as it can be seen from outside of the venue. Once inside, you would notice that it is the one and only of its kind with its logo backdrop, perfect for photos and sections to include each brand carried along with a special Cuccio tower of polishes, all fitting into beautique’s signature round style.

The eventful two day trade show ended with a lovely private dinner at Ramusake, where the beautique staff had pre-selected a few of their top clients to join them in celebrating the success of the show. Representatives from Trevor Sorbie, Gloss Academy, Chill Salon, The Grooming Company, Pastel Salon and of course the beautique team all came together with the Assistant General Manager of beautique, Heba Farrag, at the head of the table enjoyed a wonderful night to remember!

Regional Sales Manager, Lucy Parry was on-hand to greet enthusiastic salon owners and stylists. Seeing order after order quickly coming through, Head of Sales in Kuwait, Fatma Karimy balanced the tempo as she took the time to introduce the brands and their top products. Annie Centeno, beautique’s Marketing & PR executive, was equipped with brochures and product guides to better acquaint those waiting to receive their discount vouchers. Special Guest, Jez Barnett, Founder of KeraStraight & INNOluxe demonstrated KS’s brilliance at the booth as the fabulous Social Media Influencer @saraindubai had half her hair in its raw form and the other half treated with the new KeraStraight formula. The smoothness was shown further as Jez straightened the treated side with absolute ease and not a flyaway in sight!

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For more information please call +971 4 880 2890 or visit www.beautiquecosmeticsintl.com. Follow them on instagram @beautiquecosmetics for the latest updates!

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Distributed by beautique cosmetics international & Rapid General Trading. Merint Building, Showroom S2., Plot No. 619, DIP- 1 In front of British Columbia Canadian School, Dubai UAE Tel: +971 4 880 2890 www.beautiquecosmeticsintl.com

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Editor’s Comment

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Not only did the fourth Professional Beauty GCC show provide us with education and business boosting advice, it also filled us with inspiration for spring/summer as international professional brands showcased what’s new in nails, hair and makeup via our exciting catwalk shows. Turn to page 23 where we give you step-by-step nail trends straight from the catwalk. Not only this, on page 69 we also explore the hottest hair colour trends which have transpired from the SS18 catwalk looks. February really was the month of new launches, trends and techniques thanks to the return of Professional Beauty GCC show in Dubai. Thousands of you flocked to The Meydan to witness this, and we thank you all for your continued support in making the show such a success. Read the full exhibition review on page 43. Beauty buzzwords pop up constantly. In recent months, vegan beauty has been a huge craze within our industry with professional brands diversifying their new launches to accommodate this beauty boom. On page 55 we explore why vegan beauty is such a major necessity to today’s market. As well as vegan beauty, hyper-personalisation within skincare is also a huge trend this year. It’s more important than ever to choose a skincare line, which has active ingredients to accommodate all different skin concerns that clients may have, whether that be in the treatment room or in your retail section. Page 76 highlights the top skincare products which will really give your clients the “wow” factor. Because let’s face it, repeat customers are key. Keeping up to date on trends and breaking news is essential to your day-to-day basis. Hear it first when you follow us on Instagram @pro_beautygcc or visit our website www.professionalbeauty.ae where content is uploaded daily, to help you. As always, we welcome any feedback you have, please email us at anytime info@professionalbeauty.ae

Emma

Editor |

@pro_beautygcc

Published by and (C) 2017 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC News editor: Emma Baron emma@professionalbeauty.ae

@emmatheeditor @pbgcc

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Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae

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General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae

The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.

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Regulars 7 News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty 18 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 35 Ask the experts Advice on consulting on what superfood clients to best turbocharge client’s skin, the best way to sell a clients course of skin-rejuvenation, instead of one and transforming your salon on a small budget

Contents

Apr

Contents

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76 Product news Pick of the best active skincare products 80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training

Features Hairdressers Journal 64 Illumination Show- stopping effects that change and move with light 69 It colour trends Leading colour experts reveal how to experiment with SS18’s hottest shades

39 A push in the right direction Columnist Maria Dowling talks about the importance of mentorship 57 Any lengths We explore the benefits of adding a hair extension line to your treatment menu 60 Hair hero With the Supersonic Dyson now launched in the UAE, we look into the science behind the ‘super’ device 62 Leading the path We speak to the founder of the EIDEAL-Santi Leadership Programme

On the cover 23 From catwalk to nail bar Nail trends inspired from SS18 catwalks 43 Show of strength Professional Beauty GCC s how round up 49 Talking to… Will Stein One-on-one with the founder of Philip Stein w atches and bracelets 55 The V word Vegan beauty explored

Cover image: YouGoCurl

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7 News

News Professional Beauty GCC Award winners revealed The best and most innovative businesses and individuals in the spa, hair and beauty market were recognised at the first ever Professional Beauty GCC Awards 2018. The glamorous black-tie ceremony, which took place at The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC on February 5th began with a champagne reception, followed by a three-course meal and

entertainment from renowned music artist DD FOXX which then led on to a prestigious awards ceremony where individual sponsors announced the winners and those who deserved to be recognised were awarded with a Professional Beauty GCC winners trophy. Categories for ranged from Beauty Salon of the Year to Make-Up Artist of the Year to

Business Director of the Year with an aim to recognise the best individuals and businesses’ in the hair, beauty and spa industry winners included Willow Stream; Fairmont the Palm, AVEDA Flagship Salon Galleria Mal, Tara Rose, The Loft 5th Avenue, mariadowling Salon and The Nail Spa. Learn more about the 2018 winners on page 46

Technology, wellness directors and fitness key topics at the WSWC in London The advent of technology in spas, making wellness key to repeat business and the rise of hyperpersonalisation were some of the topics on the agenda at the 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention. The event, which took place last month once again attracted hundreds of senior spa and industry professionals from around the world, with many speakers from the GCC. Taking part in a panel on Tech Disruptors the speakers debated the way in which technology is improving the spa experience – enabling a smoother, more streamlined booking and user experience. However, the conversation also addressed the fact that, at the same time, guests are increasingly looking for a digital detox and a break from a 24/7 connected lifestyle from their spa experience. A session with Neil Jacobs, chief executive of the Six Senses resort group, and Middle-East based Andrew Gibson, vice president, wellbeing luxury brands, at Accor

Hotels addressed how to make spa more affordable, with Jacobs suggesting that looking into ways to reduce the costs of building spas could hold the key to this. Gibson and Jacobs also discussed the concept of potentially appointing wellness directors at hotels – roles that would be separate to spa directors and would overlook the entire

wellbeing offering at a property – not only the spa element. Panel discussions included The Rebirth of Fitness in Spa. The panel featured GCC spa guru Sharon Barcock, director, spa and fitness operations and development MEA, Hilton Worldwide; and James Blower international hospitality manager EMEA, Matrix Fitness.

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Professional Beauty GCC 2018 marked a success The fourth edition of Professional Beauty GCC took place at The Meydan Racecourse on February 5-6, attracted only the key decision makers, beauty bloggers, local and international artists, to the venue. Marked as the first genuine B2B exhibition and conference for the beauty, hair and spa industry of the year, the industry flocked to the Meydan to discover the latest treatments and innovations set to shape the market for the year ahead. The show was a platform for many exciting new launches allowing all professional visitors to witness first hand the latest trends within the industry, before anyone else. Key industry experts also took to the stage to educate and

‫كسبا معروف بهويته يف دول مجلس‬ ‫ تم اإلعالن عن زوي وول‬،‫التعاون الخليجي‬ ‫كمدير مجموعة من السباهات يف آسيا يف‬ .‫ام سبا الدولية‬ ‫بدأت وول حياتها املهنية كمعالجة يف البحر‬ ‫ وهي تجلب خربة واسعة لدورها‬.‫لشتايرن‬ ‫الجديد يف ام سبا باالخص خربة ما قبل‬ ‫االفتتاح ومعرفة اإلرشاف عىل العمليات‬ .‫واسعةالنطاق‬ ،‫وكانظهورالتكنولوجيايفاملنتجعات‬ ‫وجعل مفتاح العافية لتكرار األعامل‬ ‫و بروز الطابع الشخيص املفرط بعض‬، ‫املواضيع عىل جدول األعامل يف سبا العامل‬ . 2018 ‫و اتفاقيه العافيه‬

inspire, including Cyril Morgan, Nina Ubhi, Chris Foster, Waafic Saab, Maria Dowling, Shabana

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Karim and Jalal Hafed – all offering free education which wasn’t to be missed.

Pastels celebrates 10 years in Dubai Dubai-based beauty and hair salon, Pastels, celebrates its 10th birthday this month. Situated in the prestigious Ritz-Carlton, Dubai Marina and owned by PB Ambassadors Ruksher Malik and Steven Chan, this salon has gone from strength-to-strength and there is also a second second branch on Al Wasl Road. Speaking on this landmark Malik

comments: “The first branch is really unique because it is unisex. We have several male stylists working here, which adds a different dimension and a lovely aspect to what would otherwise be a ladies-only salon. This branch also attracts a very varied client base, which includes many hotel guests plus residents who live in JBR and Dubai Marina.”

‫وقد اجتذب هذا الحدث الذي عقد الشهر‬ ‫املايض مئات من كبار املتخصصني يف مجال‬ ‫السبا والصناع من مختلف أنحاء العامل مع‬ ‫العديد من املتحدثني من دول مجلس‬ .‫التعاونالخليجي‬ ‫وشارك املتحدثون يف حلقة نقاش حول‬ ‫«تيك ديرسوبتورس» يف النقاش حول‬ ‫الطريقةالتيتعملبهاالتكنولوجياعىل‬ ‫ مام‬،‫تحسني تجربة املنتجع الصحي‬ ‫يتيح إجراء تجربة حجز مواعيد و تجربة‬ . ‫مستخدم أكرث سالسة وأكرث انسيابية‬ ‫سواءا ً اكان العمالء يتبعون نظام‬ ‫غذايئ منخفض الدهون أو منخفضة‬ ‫الكربوهيدرات فإن لها تأثري يذكر عىل‬ ‫ وفقا لدراسة جديدة اجريت‬،‫فقدان الوزن‬ ‫من قبل باحثني يف كلية الطب يف جامعة‬ .‫ستانفورد يف الواليات املتحدة‬ professionalbeauty.ae

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Skincare System . Microdermabrasion Mineral Makeup

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to

The Nail Spa Mall Of The Emirates Beauty Salon of the Year

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‫ من البالغني‬609 ‫ التي تضم‬،‫ووجدت الدراسة‬ ‫ أن النظامني الغذائيني كانا‬،50 ‫ و‬18 ‫بني سن‬ ‫يف نفس القدر من الفعاليه يف تحقيق فقدان‬ .‫الوزن‬

Exciting new MSpa role for Zoe

‫وجاءت التنبؤات كجزء من تقرير اتجاهات‬ ‫ الذي أصدرته‬،2018 ‫الصحة العاملية لعام‬ .) ‫القمة العاملية للعافية (جي دبليو اس‬

A well-known spa personality in the GCC, Zoe Wall has been announced as group director of spa for Asia at MSpa International. Wall began her career as a therapist at sea for Steiner. She brings extensive experience to her new role at MSpa with particular pre-opening expertise and knowledge of overseeing largescale operations. Her background includes taking charge of the pre-opening stage of Shuiqi Spa & Fitness at Atlantis The Palm in Dubai, where she managed a team of a 100+ staff. Wall previously also worked with the Anantara resorts group as a spa director in the Middle East. Remits during her time with the group included opening the spas at Anantara The Palm Dubai and Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara. Wall’s responsibilities as group director of spa, Asia, for MSpa will comprise the performance of the company’s spas in the region, including preopening and expansions. Thomas Meier, senior vice president operations, Asia, at Minor Hotels, to which MSpa International belongs,

‫ و وسائل التواصل االجتامعية‬،‫التسويق‬ ‫والقدرة عىل االحتفاظ باملوظفني هي من‬ ‫بني املهارات األساسية التي يجب ان ميتلكها‬ ‫املوظفني االداريني يف السبا وصناعة الصحة‬ .‫اليوم‬

Mental health messages to help market beauty products

‫سوف تجد الصحة العقلية طريقها إىل تسويق‬ ‫كام‬،‫منتجاتالتجميلالطبيعيةوالعضوية‬ ‫ترفع العالمات التجارية جهودها الستهداف‬ .Z-‫جيل األلفية والجيل‬ ‫وتوقع تقرير سوق الجامل والرفاهية‬ ‫ الصادر عن جمعية‬2018‫العضوية لعام‬ ‫االرتبة أن رسائل الصحة العقلية ستحظى‬ ،‫باهتامم بارز يف رسائل منتجات التجميل‬ ‫حيث تبدأ األجيال الشابة يف تشكيل مستقبل‬ .‫صناعةالعافية‬ )‫وقدطرحت سيكس سنسز(الحواس السته‬ ‫مفهوم جديد تركز فيه عىل املنتجات الصحية‬ .)‫والصديقة للبيئةهذا الشهر (مارس‬ ‫سيتم ادراج برنامج «تناول الطعام مع السيكز‬ ‫سنسز (الحواس الستة)» تدريجيا إىل جميع‬ ‫خصائص و بنيات املجموعة يف جميع أنحاء‬ ‫ و هو برنامج «مصمم الفادة كل من‬،‫العامل‬ .»‫الجسموالكوكب‬ ‫السعادة والعافية النسائي ًه هي بعض من‬ ‫ وفقا‬،2018‫اتجاهات الرفاهية الرئيسية لعام‬ .‫لقمةالعافيةالعاملية‬

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said: “Zoe’s track record speaks for itself and we look forward to t he successes she will bring in driving revenue, marketing, and the launch of more wellness programmes.”

‫مع معرفة كيفية دمج التسويق باستخدام‬ ‫اسرتاتيجيةوسائلاالتواصلاالجتامعية‬ ‫هي واحدة من أكرث املهارات‬، ‫بفعالية‬ ‫املطلوبة يف مديري اعامل السبا والعافية‬ ‫ جنبا إىل جنب مع السيطرة التامة عىل‬، .‫توظيف والحفاظ عىل املعالجني املهرة‬ ‫وقد حصل سبا داليا يف فندق فور سيزونز أبو‬ .‫ظبي عىل جائزة عاملية املستوى‬ ‫وقد تم اإلعالن عن الفائزين يف جوائز وورلد‬ ‫ يف حفل توزيع‬2018 ‫سبا و ولنيس لعام‬ .‫ فرباير‬25 ‫جوائز مبهر يف لندن يوم‬ ‫تم إطالق منتجع «أو سبا» من قبل‬ ‫ أول عالمة تجارية يف الرشق‬- »‫«لوكسيتان‬ ‫األوسط ألول مرة يف فندق إنرتكونتيننتال يف‬ .‫الفجرية‬ ‫من املتوقع أن يجذب املنتجع الصحي‬ ‫الضيوفيفمنتجعشاطئإنرتكونتيننتال‬ ‫الفجرية الواجهه البحرية الواقع عىل شاطئ‬ . ‫العقة الساحيل‬

Mental health will find its way into the marketing of natural and organic beauty products as brands ramp up efforts to target millennials and generation-Z. The Soil Association’s Organic Beauty and Wellbeing Market Report 2018 predicted that mental health messages will have more prominence in beauty product messaging, as younger generations begin to shape the future of the wellness industry. The report said the conscious

consumerism movement has heightened awareness of the ethics and sustainability of beauty products, resulting in consumer mistrust of brands that don’t make the grade. 2017 saw many brands work towards transparency by presenting ethical accreditations on packaging – an initiative that will likely impact the natural cosmetics market’s worth in the coming years, predicted to reach £34 billion, 172billion by 2019 by the Soil Association.

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Social media and staff retention among most-sought after skills for spa jobs

Dahlia Spa named a winner

Marketing, social media and the ability to retain staff are among the key skills for managerial staff to possess in the spa and wellness industry today. Knowing how to effectively intertwine marketing with social media strategy is one of the most sought-after skills in managers of spa and wellness businesses, along with a strong handle on recruiting and retaining skilled therapists. Online education training provider Spa Business Education asked people working in the spa and wellness industry to share the top five areas of work they’d like to improve on to get an idea of which skills are deemed most important for managerial staff. Leadership skills – particularly the ability to better deal with business politics – were also frequently mentioned, as was financial knowledge and solid budgeting skills. Business planning also made the top five, with many respondents saying they’d like to have more time to plan and oversee the development of smaller details of their business.

Dahlia Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi has scooped a world-class award. The winners of the 2018 World Spa & Wellness Awards were announced in a glamorous awards ceremony in London on February 25. The World Spa & Wellness Awards, a black-tie event held at the Tobacco Dock events venue in East London, honours hotels and resort spas, and wellness destinations, around the world. The 2018 World Spa & Wellness Awards from our region were: Resort Spa of the Year: Middle East & Africa - Sponsored by Elemis Hilltop Spa at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles Hotel Spa of the Year: Middle East & Africa - Sponsored by Spatec Dahlia Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island, UAE

Happiness and feminist wellness named key 2018 industry Happiness and feminist wellness are some of the key wellbeing trends of 2018, according to the Global Wellness Summit. The predictions were made as part of the 2018 Global Wellness Trends Report, released by the Global Wellness Summit (GWS). Long considered vague and difficult to measure, there is now a rising level of research and science on happiness, including the annual World Happiness Report. A wider concept than wellness, happiness not only incorporates physical wellbeing but also factors such as income, trust in the government in the country you live in, and the strength of your social network. “The happiness science lessons are clear: the wellness world needs to put a greater focus on happiness

generally – and on driving social connection and technology disconnection specifically,” the report states. In the wake of feminism being named the word of the year for 2017 and factors such as the impact of the #MeToo campaign, the GWS predicts “new intersections between women’s empowerment, feminism and wellness in 2018”.

We will, the report states, see a stronger women’s empowerment message this year, and a broader definition of what wellness for women means. This will include the continued rise of femtech: technology focused on products and service catering for women. In the wellness world, this comprises apps centred around fertility, hormone tracking and contraception, among other things.

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INDUSTRY NEWS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE April opening for Goco Spa Daios Cove

Spa consultancy and management company Goco Hospitality has announced the opening of a new spa on the Greek island of Crete this spring.

The 2,500sq m Goco Spa Daios Cove is set to open at the five-star Daios Cove Luxury Resort & Villas on April 15.

The spa will feature eight treatment rooms, including two VIP suites and a Thai massage room, a fitness centre and movement studio, and two indoor pools. There will also be a thermal suite with a Finnish and a gentler sauna, experience showers, a Mediterraneo – combined sauna and steam room – and beach cabanas for outdoor therapies. Treatments will include the Cretan Renaissance Ceremony, a two-hour signature treatment using locally sourced herbs like lavender, rosemary and oregano and including a salt exfoliation, red wine wrap and massage with herbal poultices. Ingo Schweder, founder and chief executive of Goco Hospitality, said the new spa and retreat would “bring a modern and sophisticated wellness experience”.

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Women spend 77 days of life on personal grooming British women spend £564 (2,900AED) per year and 77 days over their lifetime on personal grooming. A survey from VoucherCodesPro. co.uk found most women begin their beauty regimes at 13 years old and spend on average £47 per month on their appearance. 2,256 British women aged 18 and over were asked which grooming

tasks they considered the most important and which consumed the most of their time.

Waxing, plucking eyebrows and applying skincare came out as most time consuming, with at home or in salon waxing found to take 55 minutes per month, eyebrows, 27 minutes; and maintaining a skincare routine, 24 minutes. The answers provided were calculated to equate to 41 hours per year spent on grooming for women.

Vita Liberata acquired by US pharmaceutical company Professional tanning brand Vita Liberata has been sold to US pharmaceutical company firm Crown Laboratories in a deal estimated to be worth 155 million AED. Alyson Hogg, who founded the Irish tanning brand in 2003, has been promoted to president of consumer brands for Crown Laboratories, a privately held speciality pharmaceutical company focused on dermatology.

Hogg will oversee Vita Liberata as well as Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen. She commented: “Crown and Hildred have a genuine understanding of the sun care market and a very impressive vision for the Vita Liberata brand. We’re thrilled to partner with them to leverage Crown’s strong positioning within the dermatology space and advance our mission of making self-tanning a viable alternative to sun exposure for all.” PB

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FEED YOUR SKIN

Plant-based. Nutrient-dense. NEW SUPERFOOD SKINCARE SYSTEM to help nourish and revitalise the appearance of the skin.


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Business Trends

18 Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

Insider salons We are well aware that social media is a simple and successful medium by which to engage with current and potential customers. Not only can it create awareness about your treatments and skills through authentic photographs and messages, it can truly help you build a brand by reinforcing your salon’s unique message. This month you told us that Facebook and Snapchat are the most popular social media channels for salons in the GCC. Interestingly though, while beyond marketing, social media is also being increasingly used in recruitment, you revealed that just 10% of you use LinkedIn for this purposes. Meanwhile the business figures remain stable with a 79% average treatment room occupancy rate and rebooking rates at 78%. Year on year, just over half of you believe that treatment business is currently better.

On the spot Which social media channels do you use most for your business:

February 2018 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2018 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2017?

1. Facebook 2. Snapchat 3. Twitter 4. Pinterest

90

%

Always check client satisfaction after salon visits

10%

Recruit through Linkedin

60% 40% BETTER

What are your most popular anti-ageing treatments? 1. Machine facials 2. Regular facials 3. Eye treatments 4. Exfoliating facials

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

79% CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

78%

SAME

‫نحن ندرك جيدا أن وسائل االعالم االجتامعية‬ ‫هي وسيلة بسيطة وناجحة للتعامل مع‬ .‫العمالء الحاليني واملحتملني‬ ‫ليس فقط يف خلق الوعي حول العالجات‬ ‫واملهارات الخاصة بكم من خالل الصور‬ ‫ و لكن ميكن أن تساعدكم‬، ‫والرسائل الواقعيه‬ ‫بناء عالمتكم التجارية من خالل تعزيز‬ ‫عىل‬ . ‫رسالة صالونكم الفريده‬ ‫هذا الشهر بأن فيسبوك‬ ‫لقد اعلمتمونا‬ ‫و سناب شات هام أكرث قنوات التواصل‬ ‫االجتامعي شعبية يف الصالونات يف دول‬ ‫ ومن املثري لالهتامم‬.‫مجلس التعاون الخليجي‬ ‫ يجري أيضا‬،‫التسويق‬ ‫انه عىل الرغم من‬ ‫استخدام وسائل االعالم االجتامعية بشكل‬ ‫ فقط‬٪10 ‫ وكشفتم لنا أن‬،‫متزايد يف التوظيف‬ .‫منكم استخدم برنامج لينكدين لهذا الغرض‬ ‫ تظل األرقام التجارية‬،‫يف الوقت الحايل‬ ‫مستقرة مع معدل إشغال غرف املعالجة‬ ‫ ومعدالت إعادة الحجز بنسبة‬٪79 ‫بنسبة‬ ‫ أكرث بقليل من نصفكم‬،‫ سنه بعد سنه‬.٪78 ‫يعتقدون أن العمل يف مجال العالجات هو‬ .‫أفضل حاليا‬

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Business Trends

19

Insider

spa

As customers become increasingly more critical and demanding, gaining their continued loyalty is more difficult to achieve than ever and can only be achieved through providing an exceptional customer experience. In order to do this, it is imperative to continually monitor customer satisfaction levels after, as well as during, the spa experience. Encouragingly for our industry, this month, 90% of you told us that you constantly check up on customer satisfaction post treatment, whether it be verbally or via text or email. In terms of business figures, 80% of you believe treatment business is better than it was this time last year, while treatment room occupancy looks healthy at 84% and rebooking rates are strong at 88%.

February 2018 in numbers

On the spot

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2017 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2016?

80% BETTER

،ً‫كام أصبح العمالء أكرث نقدا وأكرث تطلبا‬ ‫فإن الحصول عىل والءهم املستمراكرث‬ ‫ و ميكن‬،‫صعوبة من أي وقت مىض‬ ‫تحقيقه فقط من خالل توفري تجربة‬ .‫عمالء استثنائية‬ ‫ من الرضوري‬،‫من أجل القيام بذلك‬ ‫أن نراقب باستمرار مستويات رضا‬ ‫العمالء بعد وكذلك أثناء تجربة املنتجع‬ ‫ تشجيعاً لصناعتنا يف هذا‬.‫الصحي‬ ‫ منكم بإخبارنا أنه‬٪90 ‫قام‬،‫الشهر‬ ‫استمر بالتحقق من رضا العمالء بعد‬ ‫ سواء كان ذلك لفظيا أو عن‬،‫العالج‬ .‫طريق النص أو الربيد اإللكرتوين‬ ٪80 ‫ فإن‬،‫من حيث األرقام التجارية‬ ‫افضل‬ ‫منكم يعتقدون أن أعامل العالج‬ ‫مام كانت يف نفس هذا الوقت من العام‬ ‫ يف حني أن نسبة إشغال غرف‬،‫املايض‬ ‫ ومعدالت‬،٪84 ‫العالج تبدو صحية عند‬ .٪88 ‫إعادة الحجز قوية عند‬

Which social media channels do you use most for your business: 1. Snapchat

20%

2. Twitter 3. Facebook

SAME

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

84% CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

88%

4. Pinterest

90%

Always check client satisfaction after salon visits

What are your most popular anti-ageing treatments? 1. Regular facials 2. Machine facials 3. Eye treatments 4. Exfoliating facials

60%

Recruit through Linkedin

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LET NOTHING GET INTO THE WAY OF YOUR ARTISTRY

STUDIO ONE’S™, monomer free PolyGel® formula fuses strong acrylic and hard gel polymers with soft polymers for easy, intuitive application. STUDIO ONE™ will redefine how you do enhancements. And, STUDIO ONE’S™ pre-mixed formula is always the perfect consistency straight out of the tube, providing unlimited working time, no product waste and faster filing with less airborne dust for service perfection.

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Sophia Stylianou and iZ for Paul Costelloe

@liliumzz

SS18 Nail Trends

Shiaparelli

FEATHER LIGHT

23

Topshop Ralph & Russo

@lanneasnails_spraytan

@nicoles_nails

Gelish

Ralph & Russo

Feathers proved a favourite among designers looking to create texture on the SS18 catwalks, making these trimmings hot for the coming season. Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Ralph & Russo all worked feathers into their collections. Whether they were a subtle addition to footwear, or used all over on a statement piece of couture, feathers made a continuous appearance. Transforming this trend to nails makes for beautifully intricate nail art. You can choose to spread the design across every finger or add it to an accent nail for a more wearable look that still has the wow factor. The trend is perfect for spring and summer as it can be layered with any colour, but it makes an extra statement in black over a spring staple pastel.

@okiemamanails

Catwalk

INSPIRATION We explore the trends set to impact clients’ nail art and colour choices for spring/summer 2018 and the pro brands’ new SS18 colours techs need to translate them

KIT BAG Feather nail art usually begins with a pretty neutral such as In My Zone from Artistic’s Mud, Sweat and Tears SS18 line, or a pale pastel like Jessica’s Lavender Lush or almost-white Lavish. Experiment by using a strong but natural colour for the feather detail, such as the bold green Envy from The Edge Nails’ Annika SS18 collection or Margaret Dabbs’s new Cornflower shade. Using a shimmer like Morgan Taylor’s new My Other Wig is a Tiara will create soft, feathery edges, or you could even try a super-fine glitter such as Lecente’s Peach Ombre Powder to achieve the effect. >

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Shiaparelli

@thesammersaurus

Another key texture covering the runway this season was Tassels, flowing from head to toe in a variety of fabrics or kept simple in subtle fringe detailing. Chanel favoured plaid tassels on the catwalk, while Acne went for floaty fringing cascading from crochet dresses and Ralph and Russo opted for chic floor-length tassels, adding animation to muted pastels and black and white. These tassels translate best to nails through fine line detailing that cascades either upwards from the cuticle or down from the free edge. Instead of stripes from top to bottom, use light strokes that fade out for a tassel-like effect. The intensity of this trend can be placed in your clients’ hands, with the freedom to select any shimmer, solid or matte colour combination to pull it off.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Franck Sorbier

@Annekristinahartvik

Jean Paul Gaultier

TASSEL TRIMS

Alexis Mabille

@Sezjeuric

@thesammersaurus

SS18 Nail Trends

24

KIT BAG If you’re going for the waterfall effect any combination goes. Bold pastels like Morgan Taylor’s All the Queen’s Bling, Gelish’s Ruffle Those Feathers or the pale aqua Taffy from CND’s Chic Shock collection will create a strong base, or create a truly blank canvas with a superpale pink such as Jessica’s Cheeky. Try layering with metallic shades for the tassels such as Golden Buddha from LCN’s summer Night Out in Bangkok collection or iZ Beauty’s shimmery Sapphire Stone. If you want all the tassel with none of the hassle, try Snowflake Frosting from Biosculpture’s Dreamers collection, which contains pretty strands. >

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CND for Gareth Pugh

@ohmygoshpolish

Jessica for Eudon Choi

SS18 Nail Trends

26

Tod’s Thierry Mugler

@candy.coat

@jadetangtheartist

Burberry

Designers were all over rubberised materials this season. This spring/summer trend has evolved from the vinyl craze that hit in autumn to become bright, bold and impossible to miss. Full-on rubber clothing was a favourite for Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy and Fenty, as well as Calvin Klein, where the thick material was gathered with drawstrings to create shape. Converting this trend to the nails makes for a simple yet stunning finish. Use your brightest statement colours like red, orange, yellow, shocking pink and royal blue. Experiment with a two-tone or ombré finish to add depth and be sure to finish it off with your glossiest, most hard-wearing topcoat for added rubber-like shine that lasts.

@jadetangtheartist

RUBBERISED TEXTURE

KIT BAG The rubber trend is all about going bold so the hot pinks of Gellux’s Helter Skelter, Artistic’s Wo-Man Up and Gelish’s All the Heart Desires are the perfect starting point. If your clients prefer a bright red or orange, check out OPI’s We Seafood and Eat It, from the Lisbon collection, LCN’s new Red Lips shade or Wild Side from The Edge Nails’ Annika line. For something a little less in your face, CND’s bright pastel-yellow Jellied or Biosculpture’s bright Aqua Clouds give the trend a lighter spring twist. >

professionalbeauty.ae

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Outstanding marine cosmetics Would like to congratulate

WILFRED SUAREZ on being awarded

THERAPIST OF THE YEAR

“ I believe in a different kind of cosmetics inspired by the ocean, surprising with their high sensoriality and enhanced by the astonishing power of marine molecules.�

Bernard Sirop

Managing Director of THALGO


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RETOUCH.ME New arrival

With four shades in the range, we offer you a variety of multi-tonal options to blend away grey and hide unsightly roots with no flaking! A new growth touch-up spray with a dry, satin finish to quickly and discreetly colour hair and blend or cover greys between colour services. Instantly enhance, retouch or blend greys at anytime, anywhere. Micro-fine pigments blend seamlessly with your existing shade to conceal with no flakiness or residue, all the way to your next wash.

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CND for Ryan Lo

@isihennig

SS18 Nail Trends

30

Bio Sculpture

Georges Hobeika Jessica for Apu Jan

@maddi.nails

CND for Ryan Lo

The catwalks were flooded with sheer fabrics and see-through accessories that brought an ethereal feel back to spring with barely-there pieces. Taking the underwear-as-outerwear trend one step further, designers including Thierry Mugler and D Squared2 layered completely sheer dresses over block-coloured underwear. You can channel the transparent trend on clients’ nails by embracing the negative space nail art look. Skip back to page 54 for a simple way to master it. Alternatively, pick a super-sheer colour or clear polish for your base then accentuate with embellishments or glitter to replicate the look of the shimmering gossamer dresses that were seen on the Helmut Lang, Preen and Georges Hobeika catwalks – and are sure to filter through to the high street this summer.

Shiaparelli

DSquared2

TRANSPARENT EFFECT

KIT BAG Whether you’re working on a negative space design or channelling the catwalk trend with a gossamer-fine finish, your go-to base colour is likely to be a pretty pink or nude. Reach for Gelish’s Curls Pearls, a barelythere pink, or try Jessica’s Pinkies Up for a slightly stronger shade. Gellux’s Coconut Shy offers up a peachy finish, while OPI’s Made it to the Seventh Hill and CND’s Candied give a stronger pastel-pink base. To add shimmer for that on-trend ethereal finish, try iZ Beauty’s lilac-toned Amethyst Angel or go bolder with Lecente’s Taupe ombré powder. PB

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Congratulations to our Winner Shomaiza Shamrez For the Makeup Specialist of the year category sponsored by Provoc

info@sawaya-intl.com | www.sawaya-intl.com


33

by Katia da Silva, NSI Nails STEP 1 Lightly paint the outline of the first feather using NSI Design Gel in Deep Secrets and cure in an LED/UV lamp for 30 seconds STEP 2 Repeat the above for the second feather STEP 3 Using a NSI HD Detailer brush, gently draw the lines using NSI Design Gel to create the texture of the feather. Highlighting the edges and the center of the feather with bolder lines and using the Design Gel and cure

SS18 Nail Trends

FEATHER LIGHT STEP 4 Dilute a drop of Design Gel with very small amounts of NSI Cleanse and water mark the second feather to create a lighter and more washed out effect and cure for 30 seconds using a LED/UV lamp. Add some lines and highlight areas with the Design Gel and cure. Seal with Polish Pro matte top coat STEP 5 Add some gold using Design Gel Glamorous Gold and lightly stroke the lines and feather into the black. Cure for a further 30 seconds

TRANSPARENT EFFECT By BioSculpture STEP 1 Apply basecoat and let it dry STEP 2 Prepare and cut the tape and press the tape down STEP 3 Apply two coats of “Liquorice” and remove the tape when the polish is still wet STEP 4 Let the paint dry and apply a top coat

From

catwalk TO NAIL BAR

Taking inspiration from the SS18 catwalk trends, these three nail art step-by-steps offer up fresh designs to encourage clients to try something different

TASSEL TRIMS by Galina Spierling, Color Club Preparation- Apply a thin layer of your favourite base coat or “Stuck On You” base coat by Color Club on manicured nails

STEP 1 Apply thin layer of pure white colour nail polish, like “Chalk It Up” or “French Tip” by Color Club. Let it dry and apply one or two strokes with sheer nail polish “Tube Top” by Color Club

STEP 2 Add colours of sheer polishes in random manner by Color Club “Just Dew It”, “Flushed”, “Darling Clementine”. STEP 3 Add texture with special effects nail polish by Color Club “British Invasion”, “Day Dream Believer”, ‘Would Stock of Burst”.

STEP 4 Draw thin random lines by Nail Art Duo by Color Club “Hot Purple”, “Baby Blue”, “Neon Green and Neon Orange”

STEP 5 Seal entire nail with matt effect top coat by Color Club “Mattified”

RUBBERISED TEXTURE By Morgan Taylor, Sawaya International STEP 1 Apply a thin coat of Arctic Freeze onto the entire nail making sure to cap the free edge. Apply a second coat for full coverage STEP 2 Using “Flamingo Float” create a round shaped French near the free edge. Apply a second coat for full coverage STEP 3 Using “Black Shadow” and the Mini Striper Brush, paint outlines and details on the flamingo STEP 4 With a Dotting Too; and “Limonade in the Shade” add dots above the flamingo STEP 5 Continue adding dots using “You’ve Got Tan-Gerine Lines” and “One Piece or Two?” creating the rubberised effect. Finish with “Need for Speed” top coat. professionalbeauty.ae

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Congratulations to Tara Rose Salon Team of the Year

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Ask the Experts

35

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

Which superfoods are best to use in treatment to turbo-charge clients’ skin? Superfood is a buzzword in the industry and for good reason. We all know that eating healthily makes us feel, and of course look, better. A nutritious and balanced diet packed with vitamin-rich superfooods will help your internal organs to function well and, in turn, your skin, which is the largest organ of the body – leaving it fresh, clear and glowing with good health. But the superfoods we eat are now finding their way into skincare products, and there are a few key ingredients that are good to use in treatment to turbo-charge clients’ skin. Acerola cherry, native to South America, Mexico and Puerto Rico, is a red berry that has one of the highest natural vitamin C contents, with 13 times more than you find in the humble orange. Apart from vitamin C, acerola cherry also contains vitamin A and several of the B group vitamins. As an ingredient for skincare, it adds radiance, protects elastin fibres against hardening and brings valuable anti-ageing properties, as well as being a powerful antioxidant and anti-free-radical. It protects and strengthens blood vessel walls and has a profound effect on tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme for controlling the production of melanin. As such, acerola cherry helps even out pigmentation on the skin’s surface by reducing the production of melanin.

Another superfood taking the beauty world by storm is spirulina extract, known to the healthfanatics among us as an ingredient that is usually added to drinks or smoothies. This blue/green algae extract is packed with vitamins A, B, C and E, which all work together to add radiance to skin. Spirulina extract also contains skin-perfecting trace elements and minerals including potassium, iron, zinc and copper, perfect for clients whose skin needs nourishing after being damaged by environmental aggressors. >

Kirsti Shuba is co-founder of British skincare brand Katherine Daniels Cosmetics, which she set up with colleague Donna Tait. Shuba has 30 years’ industry experience.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae

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How can I give my salon a face-lift on a budget?

What’s the best way to sell clients a course of skin-rejuvenation treatments instead of a one-off? Demand for non-surgical aesthetic treatments is at an all-time high. Consumers are turning towards non-invasive technologies to improve the appearance of their skin, which has subsequently resulted in strong growth in the number of non-surgical aesthetic practitioners operating in the UK. I speak to many salon and clinic owners who say their clients are becoming increasingly aware and demanding treatments with the latest technologies, despite there sometimes being little clinical evidence to back up efficacy claims. In the end, the best way to sell your treatments and boost footfall comes down to one thing – results. New technologies and products can obviously help to attract new customers via an initial buzz created by good consumer marketing. This is ideal when you’ve just made a new investment; however, it’s crucial not to rely too heavily on this. Implementing a long-term business strategy around the new product is essential. When creating this some key points to consider are: will your clients gain good-quality results from this product? Can you expect high customer satisfaction? Is there clinical evidence to back up your claims? If the skin-rejuvenation technology you use allows you to achieve consistently outstanding results, you’re sure to generate strong Dr Samantha Hills is clinical and training manager at machines manufacturer Lynton. After completing a PhD in physics and pharmaceutical sciences, Hills worked in a post-doctoral position carrying out research into lasers and other light-based methodologies.

word-of-mouth referrals from your existing clients, which will

Ask the Experts

37

With clients looking to treat themselves and get party-ready ahead of the festive season, you need to make sure your salon is up to scratch for winter. First impressions are everything when it comes to getting clients through the door, so step out onto the street and consider your salon’s overall impact from the perspective of a new customer. Whether it’s a fresh lick of paint, putting up some new posters in the window or getting festive with some tasteful Christmas lights, it’s easy to give your salon a new lease of life on a budget. While it’s important to consider the look of your salon, it also makes sense to have equipment that’s easy to clean. Opting for furniture in black or white is both practical and timeless – whatever the vibe of your salon. Monochrome pieces will blend in with your interiors and won’t look out of place if you decide to revamp your salon again in the future. When selecting furniture also consider the different treatments you offer and the space available to carry them out, and then choose those that can be easily stored away to keep your salon tidy. Save space by selecting trolleys that are both practical and slim, with just the right amount of storage. >

lead to more bookings. These are much more likely to generate you good-quality leads and a greater return on investment when compared to the latest flash-in-the-pan

Ian Rarity is an interiors expert at Salon Services and has worked with the company for more than 30 years.

skin-rejuvenation technology.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae

professionalbeauty.ae

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a push RIGHT DIRECTION

Marketing

39

in the

This month Maria Dowling explores why every beauty industry professional needs a mentor I have recently taken on a young and very talented trainee colourist for the very first time. I know the fact that this is my first apprentice is unusual for the industry we are in (most hairdressers learn their trade through on the job apprenticeships) but I had always felt that I wanted to focus solely on my clients and the business. I really believed I didn’t have time for the additional work an apprentice would potentially create. What I have learned from mentoring Yulia is that, from time to time, we all need someone to lean on, regardless of where you are in your career. Whether you’re at the top of your game or just starting out, the positive benefits of having mentor have already been proven. You’re getting priceless advice from an experienced, well respected industry professional who has gone through every problem you’re going through…and come out the other side! From a trainee therapist to a start-up salon, and right through to a seasoned industry professional keen to pass on their tried and tested know-how to those just starting out, having a mentor is good for business. Why? I’ve chosen my five top reasons right here.

1. A mentor is inspiring We’ve all been inspired by a special teacher or friend who has really believed in us. It’s the same with mentoring. If you have someone who believes fully in your ability and goals in life and is willing to help you turn those dreams into reality, then any self-doubt will quickly disappear.

2. You will be encouraged and supported all the way No-one is more empathic than somebody who has been through the same challenges as you. A positive role model who has achieved the success you want to achieve despite suffering major setbacks, can sympathise, help you learn valuable lessons and encourage you to solve the issue in a way they know will work.

3. A mentor can help you clarify what you want You may think you want to be a colourist but after a couple of months, you realise your passion lies in cutting instead. A mentor can help you consider your options and give you a clearer image so you can make an informed career decision.

4. A mentor will open doors Often, just knowing your mentor, will give you credibility. A mentor will introduce you to people in the industry you would never have met independently and open doors that would have taken a lot longer to unlock. For example, my trainee gets to meet all existing clients, new salon clients, take part in brand training and have opportunities to work on shows, shoots and fun campaigns.

5. You’re accountable for your own actions When you’re in the gym, if you have someone nipping at your toes, telling you to work harder, you generally do. It’s the same in business. If someone you admire and respect is telling you to get something done, you’re highly likely to get it done! Being monitored by your mentor and suffering the consequences of not doing something is a sure-fire way of making sure you’re kept right on track. A mentoring relationship isn’t something that happens immediately, it develops over time and should never be rushed. If you’re clear from the beginning on what you both want to get out of the relationship then it will benefit you both moving forward. It is without a doubt that the individual, one on one attention a good mentor can give is invaluable to anyone looking to train, upskill, change direction or simply boost their business confidence. PB

Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 4225 Follow mariadowling on Instagram @mariadowlingdubai

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Would like to congratulate

AVEDA DUBAI FLAGSHIP SALON on being awarded

HAIR & BEAUTY SALON OF THE YEAR

- Discover the best hair treatment -


Our congratulations to

MARIADOWLING SALON HAIR SALON OF THE YEAR


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Professional Beauty GCC Exhibition

43

show OF strength The 4th Professional Beauty GCC took place last month, attracting the serious buyers and decision makers to the Meydan Racecourse

M

arked as the first beauty, hair and spa trade event of the year, this year’s show did not disappoint. Set within the iconic and impressive Meydan Racecourse, this exhibition welcomed new features, international acts, local artists and inspiring new brands. 4,428 decision-makers visited on February 5-6

with an aim of discovering the latest trends and

treatments to boost their business for the year ahead. The Beauty & HJ Hair Stage, Madi International Stage and Beauty Conference all attracted key influencers and experts who demonstrated and spoke about their passion for the industry. This year showcased performances from local talent demonstrating their latest cutting and colour techniques live in front off fellow professionals. This included artistic teams from Ted Morgan, Marquee, Be Bar Blow Dry Bar, The Lipstick Makeup Institute and Tara Rose. Internationally renowned barber, Chris Foster also returned to the stage for the second year running with local barber expert Jalal Hafed, who wowed the crowd with their innovative barbering techniques. Celebrity make-up artist Nina Ubhi also returned to demonstrate her Make Up Masterclass on both days, attracting key beauty enthusiasts and make-up artists. The Madi International stage welcomed international artists from Goldwell, Kevin. Murphy, Kemon and Nashi Argan plus the celebrity hairstylist Wafic Saab who personally took to the stage to demonstrate his latest looks. >

‫ “بدول مجلس‬professional beauty“ ‫ل‬ ‫تم االحتفال الرابع‬ ‫لقد‬ ‫ حيث استقطب املشرتين وصناع‬،‫التعاون الخليجي الشهر املايض‬ .‫القرار الجادين إىل مضامر ميدان‬ ،‫لهذا العام‬ ‫صنفت كأول حدث تجاري للجامل والشعر والسبا‬ ‫ وقد وقع هذا املعرض‬.‫فإن العرض لهذا العام مل يكن مخيباً لآلمال‬ ‫ حيث رحب مبيزات‬،‫ضمن مضامر ميدان املذهل واملثري لإلعجاب‬ ‫جديده‬ ‫وفنانني محليني وعالمات تجاريه‬ ‫جديدة واعامل دوليه‬ .‫و ملهمه‬ 6 ‫ إىل‬5 ‫من صناع القرار يف الفرتة ما بني‬ 4,492 ‫لقد تم زياره‬ ‫فرباير بهدف اكتشاف أحدث الصيحات والعالجات التي تم تقدميها‬ ‫ وقد اجتذب‬.‫دعم أعاملكم للعام املقبل‬ ‫ملساعدتكم يف تعزيز و‬ ‫ عىل مرسح «مادي الدويل و مؤمتر‬، “HJ“ ‫مرسح الجامل و الشعر‬ ‫جميع املؤثرين الرئيسيني والخرباء الذين عرضوا وتحدثوا‬ »‫الجامل‬ .‫عن شغفهم يف هذه الصناعه‬ ً‫اجتذب عودت املؤمتر العاملي للصحه و الجامل الشهري جنبا‬ ‫ املندوبيني‬ ”professional beauty“ ‫معرض ال‬ ‫اىل جنب مع‬ ‫و قد شمل هذا العام متحدثا رئيسيا‬. ‫من جميع انحاء العامل‬ ،‫ بارت فان دي فيل؛ إنغو شويدر‬،‫من الفيسبوك الرشق األوسط‬ ‫ مؤسس‬،‫الرئيس التنفيذي لرشكة غوكو للضيافة و نيك واتسون‬ ‫ و قد حرض املئات من املندوبني املؤمتر الذي‬.teamangelwolf# ‫العافيه‬ ‫«جعل‬ ‫استمر يومني و الذي شمل ايضا موضوعات‬ ‫الوجهة الرئيسية لتكرار األعامل» برئاسة أندرو جيبسون؛ «جعل‬ ‫التعاون يعمل بالنسبة لك» برئاسة إميا بارون و «والدة جديدة‬ .‫للياقة البدنية يف املنتجع الصحي» برئاسة شارون باركوك‬ ‫و قد عاد مؤمتر الجامل للسنه الثالثه عىل اصحاب الصالونات‬ ‫باملحتوى الذي قدمه الخرباء للمساعده عىل تسويق‬ ‫ و تعزيز و دعم استخدام وسائل التواصل‬, 2018 ‫للعام‬ ‫اعاملهم‬ ‫ و تشجييع و تحفيز الروح‬،‫االجتامعي للحجوزات عرب االنرتنت‬ ‫ و قد كانت هذه هي‬، ‫املعنويه لفريق العمل ضمن الصالون‬ ‫ يف كال اليومني‬. ‫املوضوعات الرئيسيه عىل جدول اعامل هذا العام‬ ‫ مؤسسه صالون مارياداولينغ لجنتني‬، ‫ استضافت ماريا داولينغ‬، . ‫من الخرباء‬

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Congratulations to our Winner Katherine May Vergara For the Nail Professional of the year category sponsored by Gelish & Morgan Taylor

info@sawaya-intl.com | www.sawaya-intl.com


Professional Beauty GCC Exhibition

45

The Beauty Conference for salon owners also successfully returned for the third year with content provided by experts to help market your business for 2018, boost social media online bookings and encouraging motivational team morale within the salon. On both days, Maria Dowling, founder mariadowling salon hosted two panels which included the finalists of the Manager of the Year Professional Beauty Award and 2017 challenges, 2018 expectations which included Shabana Karim founder, The Nail Spa; Jane Whittington, general manager, The Loft 5th Avenue;

Drawing in the international crowd, this year

Cyril Morgan, founder, Ted Morgan; Deborah Whitehead,

welcomed back the South Korean Pavillion, with

founder, Gloss Salon & Academy and Galina Spierling,

booths demonstrating the latest hypes that surrounds

founder, Galina’s Beauty Salon.

the cult of Korean beauty. Meanwhile, new for this year

Attracting delegates from all around the globe, the

was the launch of the South African Pavilion. Next

renowned World Spa & Wellness Convention returned

year welcomes even more international pavilions

alongside the Professional Beauty exhibition. This year

with the introduction of the new International

included a keynote speaker from Facebook Middle East,

Manufacturers Forum as a new addition to the show.

Bart Van de Vel; Ingo Schweder, CEO of GOCO

The show was a platform for many exciting new

Hospitality and Nick Watson, founder of

brands including Spectrum Brushes. Claire Gittus,

#teamangelwolf. Hundreds of delegates attended the

managing director, Aspire Beauty comments:

two-day conference with topics which also included

“The show was a great success, and we achieved

make wellness the key destination for repeat business

everything we set out to accomplish. The show

chaired by Andrew Gibson; making collaborations work

captured the perfect demographic for us with the

for you chaired by Emma Baron and the rebirth

additional push on bloggers and influencers, as well

of fitness in spa chaired by Sharon Barcock.

as the key decision makers.” PB

The 2019 exhibition will return to The Meydan on February 11-12, for your free ticket visit www.professionalbeauty.ae or follow us on Instagram @pro_beautygcc to keep up to date with all the latest hair, beauty and spa news

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Professional Beauty Awards GCC

46

A NIGHT

to

remember The first ever Professional Beauty Awards came to Dubai last month celebrating the best individuals and businesses in the industry

The roof was raised at the first Professional

swing, the ceremony began with a

Beauty GCC Awards – a triumphant

introduction of all our worthy finalists –

evening, which saw individuals and

then, one-by-one each sponsor took to

businesses take to the stage in recognition

the stage to announce the winner of

of their successes in the beauty, hair and

each category.

spa industry. Kicking off the evening was a champagne

mariadowling salon won Hair Salon of the Year commented: “We’re so proud to be

reception where all finalists and sponsors

crowned Hair Salon of the Year 2018 at the

gathered before the doors opened to a tasty,

industry awards in Dubai. To be recognised

three-course dinner. The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC

by our peers is the best accolade we could

was the location of choice to host the

wish for. Thank you to our fantastic team for

inaugural awards evening. The setting was

their absolute professionalism, creativity

truly stunning and the purple-branded stage,

and hard work. Also a big thank you to

the bright lights and glitzy centrepieces gave

Professional Beauty for believing in the

the event the “wow” factor.

industry and helping to raise standards here

DD FOXX was the MC of choice, a

in Dubai”.

multi-talented Lebanese singer who

With the atmosphere continuing to be

delighted the 350 attendees with her

electric, attendees took to the dance floor

show-stopping performance before the

till the early hours of the morning to mark

awards ceremony. With the night in full

what really was an epic evening. PB

The 2019 Professional Beauty GCC Awards returns on February 11th, 2019. Keep your eyes peeled for announcements on how to enter by following our Instagram page @pro_beautygcc or visit www.professionalbeauty.ae

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Professional Beauty North 2017

47

Professional

BEAUTY GCC Award Winners

Beauty Salon of the Year

Make-Up Artist of the Year

Sponsored by: The Nail Spa, Mall of Emirates, Dubai

Sponsored by: Shomaiza Shamrez

Bridal Hairstylist of the Year

Manager of the Year

Sponsored by: Saima Saqib, Be Bar Blow Dry Bar, Dubai

Business Director of the Year Sponsored by: Jacob Hrayki, The Loft Fifth Avenue

City Hotel Spa of the Year Sponsored by: Anantara Spa, Anantara Eastern Mangroves, Abu Dhabi

Colour Technician of the Year Sponsored by: Charlie Francis, Ted Morgan Hair, Dubai

Day Spa of the Year Sponsored by: SensAsia Urban Spa, Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai

Hair & Beauty Salon of the Year Sponsored by: Aveda Dubai Flagship Salon, Galleria Mall, Dubai

Sponsored by: Emily Sarah Tucker

Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Sponsored by: Luca Comella, Y-12 Salon, Dubai

Nail Professional of the Year Sponsored by: Katherine May Vegara

Resort Spa of the Year Sponsored by: Willow Stream Spa, Fairmont The Palm

Team of the Year Sponsored by: Tara Rose, Khalifa City, Abu Dhabi

Therapist of the Year Sponsored by: Wilfred Suarez, Willow Stream Spa, Fairmont The Palm

Hair Salon of the Year Sponsored by: Mariadowling salon, Dubai

professionalbeauty.ae


CONGRATULATIONS to Willow Stream Spa, Fairmont the Palm Resort Spa of the Year

High-end spa, wellness and medical equipment. Made in Germany.

Gharieni Middle-East • Dubai Design District D3 • Building 1 • Office B208 • Dubai Tel: +971 (0) 4 276 6734 • info@gharieni.ae • www.gharieni.ae

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49 Interview

Talking to...

Will

Stein

With wellness a key talking point within the industry, Emma Baron talks to the founder of Philip Stein about the importance of incorporating wellness into your business and the brand’s plans now it’s in the UAE

P

lease tell us more about your brand Philip Stein…

Philip Stein was founded by me and my wife Rina in Miami, Florida. We started of as a watch brand with a wellbeing benefit. In 2003 all watches were simply a symbol of prestige, fashion and style, as well as a

device to tell time. A watch as wellbeing accessory was a novelty and that is why we were able to create a niche for ourselves in this saturated watch market. Today Philip Stein is no longer only a watch brand but over the years we evolved into what I call “Wearable Wellbeing Technology Brand” which offers watches and other accessories. >

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GCC

CONGRATULATIONS TO LUCA COMELLA FOR WINNING

‘MEN'S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR’ AT THE 2018 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GCC AWARDS

PBGCC18 Awards master Congrats Ad.indd 1

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Tell us more about the NFT Technology which is found within the bracelets?

How does Philip Stein fit into the spa and wellness market? Our products with our unique Natural Frequency Technology are all about wellbeing. Our mission is to improve people’s quality of life through our unique technology combined with stylish design and high quality craftsmanship.

Wellness has been a major buzz word over the years.Why do you think it’s important? Everybody searches for ways to look better and feel better. More and more people look for healthy alternatives. I believe as we get older the focus and what’s important to us changes. Today there’s a clear shift from material luxury to experiential luxury. With that I mean spas, wellness resorts and retreats which help us bring a balance into our daily stressful lives. This is exactly where Philip Stein comes in, to help re-establish this balance.

The NFT technology is not only found in our bracelets, but in all of our products including our watches. We are surrounded by frequencies all the time. We are surrounded by manmade frequencies, such as those from electricity, wifi, etc., but we are also surrounded by natural frequencies, which are important for our wellbeing and life in general. Our earth has a frequency (Schumann resonance) which our body is synched to when we are in a state of calm and relaxation. However, since we are bombarded by manmade frequencies this can create an imbalance within us. Our technology functions like a finely tuned antenna, harnessing and channeling only the natural frequencies to our bodies to help bring us back in balance and perform at our best.

Interview

51

What are your plans for Philip Stein within the Middle East? Al-Futtaim Watches and Jewellery is our exclusive distributor for the GCC, which we are very happy and excited about. Together we will introduce our products to spa chains, hotels, fitness and yoga studios, sports stores, etc. Our goal is to increase the awareness of Philip Stein, the wearable wellbeing technology brand in every aspect. Our advantage is that we are a complement to the services or products that the wellness industry offers. We are not competing against other products within this industry, but we are an additional component to help improve people’s quality of life. Once the industry has understood this and experienced the benefits of our products I believe Philip Stein will become a sought after brand within the spa, health and wellness industry. This is our goal in the Middle East and worldwide. PB

Our mission is to improve people’s quality of life through our unique technology

What benefits would a spa or salon get when retailing Philip Stein? Every Spa and Salon promotes and sells wellness. Philip Stein is a perfect add-on to complement the wellness which is provided in spas and salons. For example people come to the spa to receive a relaxing massage because they sit all day and experience a lot of stress from their work. The massage helps to relieve those stresses and the customer walks out satisfied and feeling great. In addition the spa could offer now a Horizon Bracelet that helps to improve a person’s inner balance and cope with stress better. Now the customer doesn’t only walk out feeling great for the next few days, but the Horizon Bracelet will help him feel more relaxed continuously. The same hold true for the sleep bracelet of course and the other accessories.

professionalbeauty.ae

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Professional Standard in Nail Color and Care since 1975

PB DPS.indd 2

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V E GA N VEG

VE

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AN

G

AN

AN

ORLY COLOR IS VEGAN

VE

GA N

FR

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ORLY IS CRUELTY FREE

FR

LA

DE IN L .A.

MA

E IN L .A.

DE IN L .A.

MA

AD

G

N TS

FREE F RO

CRUEL TY

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DIE

MA

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EE

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ORLY has always been, and will continue to be, a cruelty free company.

FR

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C R U E LT Y

CRUE

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F

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C R U E LT Y

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ORLY IS FREE FROM HARMFUL INGREDIENTS ORLY is free from DBP, Toulene, Camphor, Formaldehyde, Formaldehyde Resin, and more.

MADE WITH LOVE IN LA Family owned business since 1975. Made in the USA at our HQ in Los Angeles, CA.

DE IN L .A.

IT ALL STARTS WITH INNOVATION

PB DPS.indd 3

20/02/2018 15:01


DAY SPA OF THE YEAR CONGRATULATIONS TO SENSASIA URBAN SPA, EMIRATES GOLF CLUB SPONSORED BY

ELEMIS MIDDLE EAST

www.luxuriatrading.com

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@elemismiddleeast

27/02/2018 11:05


V

Vegan Beauty

55

the word

I

Vegan beauty is trending, with more people than ever searching for options that are free from animal byproducts.

f you’re a newbie to vegan skincare, you won’t be

the very first defence barrier against environmental

for long. Veganism is now a powerful movement.

stresses that can harm skin vitality. It’s crucial to

If you’re not trying to be vegan then someone you

keep the microflora balanced for good skin health.

know probably is, and is encouraging others to

The super ingredients that run through this range

do so; that’s how big it has become.

offer holistic nutrition for your skin and work

Industry analyst Mintel reported that all beauty

super synergistically with all the foods, juices,

and personal care products launched in 2017,

and supplements you consume” comments

which featured vegan, rose to 11.8% - an increase

ELEMIS co-founder, Noella Gabriel. PB

from 5.4% in 2013. “As more people embrace vegan diets and clean eating, we’re seeing them question the products they put on their skin and hair, giving rise to the vegan beauty trend,” says Roshida Khanom, associate director of beauty and personal care at Mintel. As a result, professional brands like ELEMIS are putting a much greater focus on meeting this growing demand by giving vegan and cruelty-free ranges some serious bite. Superfood Skincare is ELEMIS’ latest

vegan skincare range, packed full of supergreen and supergrain complexes, which are rich in antioxidants, omega fatty acids, vitamins and minerals – almost good enough to eat. The range features a pre-biotic, designed to aid in supporting the good-for-you microflora on the skin’s surface, helping to balance and maintain the skin’s delicate ecosystem. “The microgflora is

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MINERAL HOUSE CO., LTD www.minehouse.co.kr Tel. +82 31 731 0102 Fax. +82 31 731 0061 drdeepkor@gmail.com

"Dr.Deep" Brand is natural skincare from newborn baby to senior and pregnant women. The main ingredient, Ionized Natural "Mineral Water" enhances the skin immune system, strengthen the skin barrier. Especially good for Sensitive skin and trouble skin. Registered CPNP Europe, FDA(USA/China), Clinical tested (Seoul National University)

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56 ad.indd 1

07/03/2018 15:33


Product review

57

ANY

lengths Middle East exclusive distributor of Great Lengths, Julie Powell, tells us how to give clients guaranteed luscious locks – while extending your profit margin

L

Launched in Dubai in 1996, the Great Lengths hair extension brand is now available in over 300 salons in the UAE. The name has become synonymous with beautiful, quality hair extensions from superior trained technicians. Julie Powell, a British extension specialist who first trained in the art in the 1980’s, opened the Gold Salon in 1996 as the region’s first dedicated hair extension studio. As the exclusive distributor of Great Lengths products, Powell is responsible for the education of Great Lengths technicians throughout the Region. “At The Gold Salon, our team of highly qualified stylists and technicians offer simply the finest specialist hair extension service in the Gulf,” she says. In an environ where long hair is seen as the hallmark of beauty but

where the harsh climate leads to hair damage and hair fall, it’s no wonder that the natural-looking extensions have been a hit. Great Lengths was founded in Rome in 1991 and is owned and managed by the Antonino family. It was the first extension company to develop and patent the keratin bond, where hair can be attached safely and seamlessly using a keratin based polymer that mimics natural hair. This was a turning point in the industry where previously only glue – which damaged the hair – was used. “Three things go into making Great Lengths great,” states Powell. “The hair, the application technology and the education of the technician. “Great Lengths won’t offer any one of those elements individually. The Great Lengths experience is tailored so that the method and the aftercare service is the same – whether you have your hair extensions applied in Paris or Penang. “The Great Lengths Education programme is known to be the best in the world, with the safety of the client’s own hair of paramount importance. “When building a hair extension service within a salon, the quality of the product used is vital. The service is visual and clients spend several hours >

‫تم إطالق ماركة «جريت لينغز» لوصالت‬ ‫ وهي متوفرة اآلن‬،1996 ‫الشعر يف ديب عام‬ ‫ صالون يف اإلمارات العربية‬300 ‫يف أكرث من‬ .‫املتحدة‬ ‫اصبح االسم موازياً للجامل و جودة وصالت‬ . ‫الشعر من قبل ابرع املتدربني الفنيني‬ ‫ وهي خبرية بريطانية يف‬،‫افتتحت جويل باول‬ ‫وصالت الشعر و التي تدربت ألول مرة يف الفن‬ 1996 ‫ صالون الذهب يف عام‬،‫يف الثامنينيات‬ ‫كأول استوديو متخصص يف وصالت للشعر‬ .‫يف املنطقة‬ ‫تقدم «جريت لينغز» نوعني من الشعر يف‬ ‫ الشعر العادية التي لديها‬،‫ أوال‬. ‫وصالتها‬ ‫ غري متموج ولكن لديه‬- ‫نسيج طبيعي‬ ‫هذا الشعرمتاح يف وصالت من‬.‫هيئة و ارتداد‬ ‫ لون‬50 ‫الحجم القيايس و الرفيع يف أكرث من‬ ،‫اسايس وكذلك يف الوان الباستيل األكرث غرابة‬ ‫ومجموعة متنوعة من األومربيه واأللوان‬ .‫املتخصصة‬ professionalbeauty.ae

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having it done. If you work with an inferior or cheap quality hair, your client will constantly complain, ruining your client relationship and your reputation. “When partnering with Great Lengths you can be 100% sure of the products you are using. The application technology is based on years of experience and millions of safe applications, and the hair quality means that you wont have to worry about a client being dissatisfied. After all, your client is a walking advertisement for your business.”

A hair question Great Lengths offers two hair types in its extensions. Firstly, regular hair that has a natural texture – not wavy but with bounce and body. This hair is available in standard or fine sized extensions, in over 50 base colours as well as more unusual pastel, and a variety of ombre and specialist colours. The second type is the superstraight Kashmir strands which are unique to Great Lengths and give a poker straight texture. Because of the technical processing of Kashmir strands, it is only produced in darker shades. Hair can be applied using heat or cold fusion and Great Lengths offers a range of application machines. The same hair is also available in reuseable tapes. The extensions come in 12, 17, 21 and 25 inch strands, which can create shoulder length to hip length hair.

“The finest hair in the world comes from the temples of India,” explains Powell. “Indian women are prized by the beauty of their hair and are brought up to oil and take care of it from an early age. “Hair is donated in a religious ceremony at the temples and Great Lengths has a relationship going back to 1991 with these temples, enabling them to purchase the hair at source. “We have staff on the ground in India to immediately sort and store the hair in the correct way and transport it to our processing plants in Europe. We have a production facility in Rome and in the mountains of Austria. “The key to a good hair extension is the raw hair quality and, of course, the processing. These multimilliondollar processing facilities ensure that the beauty and integrity of the raw hair is maintained and the hair remains in premium condition.” Once applied, Great Lengths extension will act and react like the client’s own hair and can be washed, styled, cut, coloured and curled with ease. Worn up or tied back, they will maintain the original shine and condition.

Business benefits “The benefits of partnering with Great Lengths are numerous,” enthuses Powell. “As the industry leader, Great Lengths can be found in over 100,000 salons around the world, and are these extensions are

the first choice of celebrities and celebrity stylists alike. “The brand is synonymous with quality, and its standing within the industry means that Great Lengths is able to purchase the very best quality virgin hair directly form the temples before it reaches the open hair markets or auctions.” Powell says there is a 100% mark up on the hair extensions and that some salons also add on an application fee, thereby boosting your margins. Great Lengths also offers two types of education packages. Free education is included in the initial starter kit and then standalone education is offered when salons train new stylists. Training comprises a two-day, hands on, training programme, which takes place in the Great Lengths Academy. Stylists

Product review

59

are then internationally certified and can work worldwide once they have obtained a certificate. For more information call: +971 (0) 50 808 0333

‫النوع الثاين هي خيوط كشمري فائقة االستقامه و‬ ‫التي هي فريدة من نوعها «لغريت لينغز « والتي‬ ‫ بسبب املعالجة‬. ‫تعطي ملمساً شديد االستقامة‬ ‫ يتم إنتاجها فقط يف ظالل‬،‫التقنية لخيوط الكشمري‬ .‫غامقة اللون‬ ‫ باول‬،»‫«إن فوائد الرشاكة مع جريت لينغز عديدة‬ ‫ ميكن العثور عىل‬،‫ «كرائدة يف هذه الصناعة‬.ً‫متحمسا‬ ،‫ صالون حول العامل‬100،000 ‫جريت لينغز يف أكرث من‬ ‫وتكون هذه الوصالت هي الخيار األول للمشاهري و‬ .‫مصففوا املشاهري عىل حد سواء‬ ‫ ومكانتها داخل‬،‫«العالمة التجارية مرادفة للجودة‬ ‫هذه الصناعة يعني أن جريت لينغز قادرة عىل رشاء‬ ‫أفضل نوعية من الشعر البكر مبارشة و تشكيله قبل‬ .‫أن تصل إىل أسواق الشعر املفتوحة أو املزادات‬ professionalbeauty.ae

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Product review

60

Hair

HERO

J

The new Dyson Supersonic hairdryer has really created some hype in the hair market, we go behind the scenes to find out what really gives it the “wow factor”

ames Dyson, the brains behind the globally recognised Dyson brand, has always been at the forefront of technology. With his hoovers recognised amongst many households around the world for digital motors, quiet acoustics and fluid dynamics it’s no surprise that Dyson wanted to tap in to the hair market. The extensive research that went on behind the scenes of developing the Supersonic is quite something, with Dyson wanting to create a hero hair dryer which tackled the daily frustrations hairstylists around the world faced when using existing dryers.

Hair science With a background in household goods, it’s unsurprising that the Dyson engineers really needed to learn and understand the variety of hair types (seven, in total) in order to ensure the end result was effective. The engineers quickly learned that the different hair types handle stresses differently. Asian hair is actually different in shape, and is the heaviest and

coarsest. This means that it tends to align more easily and tangles less. Whereas Caucasian hair has the highest density of all. It grows at an oblique angle to the scalp and is slightly curved, which means the hair is more likely to be wavy or curly.

Technique is key In order to really gain the deepest insight into hair drying techniques, the engineers spent 275 hours watching over 100 women over two continents wash and dry their hair. From the hours of insight test footage, engineers managed to analyse some interesting figures against common hair dryer usage including: • 15 angle changes were made in one drying session • It took 20 minutes on average to dry the hair •W ith the average weight of a professional hairdryer being heavy, it took women on average five seconds to feel the strain on their wrists and arms •T he most common area of struggle was the back of the head, on average consumers spend 40 per cent of their time in this area >

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Leave it to the professionals Talking to the professionals was key in executing not only a product relevant for consumers, but also hairdressers who use a hairdryer, day in, day out. Over the course of the programme engineers spoke to eight experienced hairdressers who told them the recurring blow dry disaster they see from clients is driven by a lack of understanding behind the direction air needs to travel in order to make hair look smooth. As well as the physical positioning and comfort around the head during styling, women also need to be able to position air down the hair instead of across it to gain that overall smooth effect.

Not only this, the Dyson Supersonic has a unique heating element. In order to fit this engineers needed to develop a double stacked, interwound heating element with a hole through the middle. Other hairdryers often use flat sheets of Mica which slot together in a Christmas tree shape, with wire then wrapped around the structure. But due to the shape of the Supersonic, engineers needed to develop a heating element which uses specially produced Mica tubes, positioned as a donut shape with two, resistive wires made from a chrome aluminium alloy wrapped around them. These wires are structured in a wave-form pattern and interwoven around thet tubes. The Supersonic homes the smallest Dyson motor to date– the V9. This motor is able to suck in over 13 litres of air through the diameter of a small coil, just 27mm, every second. Engineers also spend time working with aero-acoustics to be sure that the hairdryer remains as quiet as possible when in use, this they managed to achieve through the use of the V9, 13 blade impeller.

Product review

61

Dyson engineers really needed to learn and understand the variety of hair types

Supersonic powers The name says it all. The Dyson hairdryer really is “supersonic” for many reasons. First and foremost, it has a patented Air Multiplier™ technology which means that the volume of air coming out of the hair dryer is three times that going into the motor. Air takn into the motor is accelerated over an annular aperture. This creates a jet of air, which passes over an airfoil shaped ramp that channels its direction.

After three years of engineering a high-tech and high-touch product, the Dyson hairdryer was officially launched to the professional market in 2016 and with renowned salons already huge fans of this gizmo it won’t be long until we see advanced, further editions of this Supersonic created to what will be even more impactful in our industry. PB Contact Dyson Middle East by calling: +971 (0) 4 350 7800.

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Interview

62

LEADING

the way

It’s been a year since the EIDEAL-Santi Leadership Programme (ESLP) launched in the UAE. We catch up with the founder Haysem Eid talk about the importance of enrolling

What was the general idea of starting ESLP? I had an incredible desire to connect and provide a network of top salon operators in the UAE, creating a circle of excellence and a community spirit of shared business acumen and experiences. Bearing this in mind, the fundamental aim of the EIDEAL-Santi Leadership Programme was to create a professional hairdressers’ community in the region whereby salon owners can benefit from each other’s experience by sharing their knowledge and opening up to one another. EIDEAL’s significant investment in bringing this exclusive UAE first to the industry will work to will raise quality operating standards and leadership attributes contributing to taking the participants’ salons to the next levels of success.

What does the programme involve? The programme, which is a year-long mentoring programme conducted through a series of fast-paced intensive seminars, one-to-one coaching sessions and webinars, offers proven business strategies and smart tips to enhance business excellence. Fundamental to the brilliance of the programme is that Susie Santiago, the programme’s mentor, has an in-depth understanding of all aspects of salon business. One of the cornerstones of the programme was to foster a supportive network for regional salon owners and while most of the programme takes place through interactive webinars and one-to-one sessions, there are also workshops and group meetings where those who are participating can meet each other. By pacing the programme over a 12-month period, it allows the salon owners to implement changes gradually. This offers business owners the chance to take time out of their salon to work on it, as well as in it.

The participants can take information away and they have time in which to implement these proven business strategies within their businesses.

What are the benefits for salon owner? This unique programme offers salon owners the chance to develop their leadership skills, manage their time and resources, plan for strategic success, develop improved operational team work and excellent customer service, giving them an edge over their competitors. Participants of the inaugural programme have told me that they have learnt about planning and forecasting, sharper budgeting, branding and marketing, loyalty schemes, the client journey, net promoter score, mission statement and so many other things that until this programme came along, they hadn’t been able to fully master.

Why should salon owners sign up? In essence, the EIDEAL-Santi Business Leadership Programme aims to fulfil the needs of all interested salon owners who are looking into taking their business to the next level of profitable success. The knowledge gained through this fast paced, award-winning, one-year structured programme is unique and works to improve all areas of their salon business, ensuring its reputation is enhanced throughout the region. PB

Two participants of the programme have been selected as winners - Ruksher Malik, co-founder of Pastels Salon and Valerie Reynaert, managing director, Sisters Beauty Lounge. In next month’s issue we catch up with both winners who talk about their experience. For further information on enrolling onto this year’s ESLP please contact: +971 (0) 4 259 4665

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Fashion

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Illumination Show-stopping effects that change and move with light

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Fashion

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“The Pure Pigments hair colour service completely reinvents the way we do hair colour as artists.� Agnes Westerman, Goldwell international artist, Netherlands

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Fashion

66

Hair colour: Rebecca Hiele and William Wilson Hair styling: Daniel Martin Make-up: Loni Baur Styling: Ingo Nahrwold Creative director: John Moroney Photography: Ralph Mecke Products: GOLDWELL

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Colour

69

IT Colour

Trends Leading colour experts reveal how to experiment with SS18’s hottest shades

BLUE TIT

Pink is back for another season but it’s no longer girly

X-PRESION FOR FUDGE PROFESSIONAL

Grungy Pink “Pink has taken on a grittier hue and grungier vibe. It’s a trend that started with Alexander Wang’s SS18 show, where models’ hair was turned a murky shade of violet-pink. It was a far cry from the sweet, pastel and icy pink shades of previous seasons and is anything but girly,” explains Harriet Franks, head colourist at Blue Tit, Peckham.

∞ “This shade is suprisingly low maintenance, as it’s easy to get in and out of the hair and creates beautiful tones when it fades.” Suzie McGill, international artistic director at Rainbow Room International ∞ “If I had to pick just one colour from the new Wella Color Fresh Create range it would be Nu-Dist pink. It’s fun and perfect for festivals.” Sophie Turner, Wella Professionals global ambassador

RUSH ARTISTIC TEAM

Salon spy ∞ “My favourite way to achieve the shade is to combine electric purple and sorbet pink together.” Siobhan Jones, colour ambassador at Headmasters

Deconstruct the look with Blue Tit The pink hue at Alexander Wang was created with a layering technique. Hair was bleached for a neutral base and dyed grey for a dirtier tone. It was then layered with a rose coloured tint and finished with a mauve-pink colour.

Product pick Wella Professionals Color Fresh Create in Nu-Dist Pink fades out into a soft dusty pink wash after wash. professionalbeauty.ae

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Colour

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Inky Blue Fountain pens and biros are the inspirations behind this trendy hue “Last year was all about mermaid shades, but this season’s colour has toughened up. The azure shades that we saw last year are back, but have taken on an inkier edge for spring/summer. Backstage at the Fendi show, Sam McKnight gave models, including the Hadid sisters and Kendall Jenner ‘petrol bangs’. I think this shade will really come into its own for festival season,” says Linton & Mac’s Sarah Black.

Salon spy ∞ “New technologies such as Revlon Professional Blonderful allow colourists to achieve a really clean base and a truer blue. In the past when blonde was more yellow toned and mixed with blue it gave a slight green tinge. The advent of bonding colour products means we can achieve a high base and deeper truer blues. Our creativity is no longer limited by our product ranges.” John Vial, Revlon Professional global influencer

Get the look

TIGI

Celeb Luxury Viral Blue Colorwash + Viral Teal Colorwash = Inky Blue

LINTON AND MAC

BLUE TIT

+

Product pick Revlon Professional Nutri Color Crème in Blue professionalbeauty.ae

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GOLDWELL

Bronze Age

Colour

71

TIGI

Shimmering shades and rich bronze tones are an alternative to summer blonde

TIGI techniques

BLUE TIT

Get the shine: Goldwell’s new Pure Pigments range contains HD3 Dye Technology, which means hair truly moves with the light. “This reinvents the way we work with hair colour as artists.” Agnes Westerman, Goldwell international artist, Netherlands

1

Sheer Glazing – Working with the same overall tone, a solid under colour blends through to the focal area to create a delicate, romantic feeling (see picture above).

Get the look

with Manic Panic To get different bronze shades, Steve Austin, artistic brand ambassador at Manic Panic, recommends mixing colours to different ratios until you’re satisfied:

+

+

Golden Bronze = Professional Pastel-izer + Professional Divine Wine + Professional Solar Yellow

Client watch out ∞ “Be careful when working with warmer tones that they are not too overpowering. If a shade is too warm clients will need to re-think their make-up. Layering and blending a range of warm lighter hues helps to create a natural overall effect that can be adapted to any skin tone.” Robert Eaton, creative director, Russell Eaton salons

∞ “The key to a successful bronze look is to make it shine. When styling apply Fudge Professional Light HED-ed Hair Oil for a glossy lustre, and Head Shine for a high octane, mirror finish.” Tracey Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional

2

Blonde Silhouette – This reinvention of a classic technique is based on 1990s supermodel hair (think Claudia Schiffer). This technique moves away from contouring to create a face-framing light canvas using foils.

3

Aurora – This fluid colouring trend is inspired by the Northern Lights.

4

Neo Painting – This is reminiscent of the 1970s art scene where water colours merged with neon.

5

Punk Placement – This concept gives a nod to the mod and punk eras (see picture below).

TIGI

Marni, Balmain and Versace all featured chocolate-box shades, which is an unusual trend for summer. At Moschino, Kaia Gerber opened the show with a 1990s crop cut that was a shimmering shade of bronze. The red-brown colour was reminiscent of Linda Evangelista. What’s great about bronze is its versatility – shades can be golden-brown or they can creep into rose gold territory.

TIGI has developed five customisable colour techniques for its new collection

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Colour

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Ice Cool Silvery blondes that verge on grey are still cool for summer “At Roberta Einer’s SS18 show the look was Californian girl post-surf so hair was very white through the crown and the front. It looked more sun-beaten than sunkissed. Meanwhile at Peter Pilotto, the shade was a pale, baby blonde – very Scandinavian and pure,” explains Jenny Pelter, Westrow artistic team’s technical director.

30%

of women say platinum is the new blonde*

NEIL BARTON

Client watch outs ∞ “Use a cool toner and ashy tones to achieve an icy shade. Washing with Schwarzkopf Professional’s BlondMe Cool Blondes Tone Enhancing Bonding Shampoo and Conditioner enhances the shade and spritzes of the Cool Blondes Tone Enhancing Spray Conditioner helps to maximise the blonde.” Gary Taylor, Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador

source L’Oréal Professionnel colour survey

*

Get the look with Milkshake

Apply milk_shake Color Specifics Powerful Protector over your client’s scalp, ears and neck.

Apply milk_shake Decologic Level 9 Lightener with 30 volume milk_shake Oxidizing Emulsion and milk_shake Safe Lightener Complex one inch away from the root through to the ends and leave for 35 minutes.

3

Next, apply the Decologic Blue Lightening Powder with 20 volume milk_shake Oxidizing Emulsion and milk_shake Safe Lightener Complex to the root area for 35 minutes. Rinse away and apply a fresh application of Decologic Blue Lightening Powder with Safe Lightener Complex to any areas you feel need more lift.

4 5

Shampoo using milk_shake Silver Shine Shampoo and leave to pre-tone for five minutes.

Tone using Decologic Tone Controller. Use a mix of 5g Amethyst Grey and 20g Platinum at the root and mid-lengths with 5 volume milk_shake Oxidizing Emulsion. Use the Platinum Tone Controller mixed with 5 volume milk_shake Oxidizing Emulsion on the ends and leave for 30 minutes. Cleanse using milk_shake Color Specifics Color Sealing Shampoo and condition using milk_shake Deep Color Maintainer Balm.

MILK_SHAKE

WESTROW

1 2

Product pick milk_shake Decologic Blue Lightening Powder lifts six levels and reduces warm tones. PB

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The undisputed expert in Marine Intelligence for over 50 years, THALGO explores the oceans to extract powerful active molecules with unrivalled benefits, in order to provide optimum effectiveness and exceptional sensoriality. At the heart of each THALGO treatment is a unique knowledge, professional techniques, the precision of exclusive massages, expert treatment devices, divine textures and captivating fragrances, for a unique treatment experience and a guarantee of lasting and visible results. ‫ ثالغــو تستكشــف‬،‫ عامــا‬50 ‫الخبــراء مــن دون اي منــازع فــي «الــذكاء البحــري» الكثــر مــن‬ ‫ لتؤمــن الفعاليــة‬،‫المحيــط الســتخراج جزيئــات فعالــة مــع خصائــص وفوائــد ال مثيــل لهــا‬ .‫القصــوى وتجربــة حواســية اســتثنائية‬ ‫ ودقــة تقنيــات تدليــك‬،‫ تقنيــات احترافيــة‬،‫فــي قلــب كل عنايــة مــن ثالغــو معرفــة فريــدة‬ ‫ لتجربــة فريــدة‬،‫ وعطــور جذابــة‬،‫ منتجــات ذو ملمــس فاخــر‬،‫ اجهــزة عنايــة متخصصــة‬،‫حصريــة‬ .‫مــن نوعهــا وضمــان نتائــج واضحــة وطويلــو االمــد‬

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New Products

76 VitaBrid C12

Dermalogica

VitaBrid C12’s Face Brightening Powder releases active vitamin C into the skin over the course of 12 hours for a firmer, healthier, and more luminous complexion. The beauty of this product is that it can be mixed with a client’s existing moisturiser BEST FOR: dull or tired skin Call VitaBrid C12: +971 56 959 9225

Dermalogica’s latest product launch UltraCalming treats irritation and dehydration caused by sensitive skin. The Calm Water Gel is a weightless water-gel moisturiser, which hydrates dry, sensitive skin. The formula transforms into a fluid upon application, forming a weightless barrier to help protect skin against environmental assault. Dual Hyaluronic Acid technology works in different skin to increase and lock in moisture BEST FOR: sensitive skin Call Healthcare Group: +971 4 447 7636

skin saviours

With personalisation being a key skincare trend this year, we explore the kit bag essentials for all skin types

Babor The 3D Lifting Fluid is part of Babor’s Ampoule Collection. Inspired by Medicine, this collection of Amploules is highly concentrated with high-tech ingredients which are sealed within glass vials. Each ampoule contains highdose active complexes which delivers results in a matter of seconds. The 3D Lifting Fluid is an active concentrate for skin that needs firmness and facial contours BEST FOR: anti-aging Call Babor: +971 4 380 8807

The Hero Project The Hero Project Glow Drops are a dry touch facial oil with vitamin C. The facial oil is blended with natural essential oils, which helps nourish and brighten complexion giving clients a long-lasting hydration and a skin which is left with a natural, healthy glow BEST FOR: dry skin Call Fortem General Trading: +971 4 345 8833

QMS Medicosmetics Part of a highly active skincare line, Repair 3 Complex is a cream-serum specially formulated to help reduce redness and relieve irritation in the skin. The active ingredients within Repair 3 Complex helps calm, strengthen and restore the skins natural glow which reduces and inhibits further redness and nourishes to help boost the skins moisture level. The silky-smooth texture is ideal for clients with extra sensitive skin as the combined cream-serum absorbs easily without leaving an oily residue BEST FOR: irritated skin Call The Product House: +971 4 379 1966

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Elemis

Eminence

The Superfood Day Cream is part of Elemis’ latest vegan collection, a pro-biotic day cream filled with anti-oxidant rich oils and vitamin rich ‘supergreens’ which leaves skin balanaced, hydrated and silkysmooth. The protective pre-biotic is combines with superfoods including ginger, matcha tea and goji berry BEST FOR: oily skin Call Luxuria Trading: +971 4 430 8023

The Marina Flower Peptide Serum is a easily absorbed, potent gel serum which delivers concentrated plant peptides and botanicals to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for visibly smoother, plumper and more youthful-looking skin. The Smart Collagen+ Complex rejuvenates the look of the complexion while unique algae extracts increases firmness and provides long-lasting hydration BEST FOR: dehydrated skin Call Beautylicious: +971 4 220 6024

Reviderm

Gemology

O2 Hydro Fluid is a high-quality moisturiser which energises the skin and stimulates vital organs, giving the skin a visible glow. The moisturiser works as an anti-irritant, which calms and balances skins redness and irritations. Suitable for all skin types, but more relevant for reducing small wrinkles and lines which are caused by dry skin BEST FOR: redness Call Specialized Beauty: +971 2 627 5926

For clients looking to improve uneven skin tone caused by aging, the Youth Diamond Lotion from Gemology is a face lotion enriched with active ingredients; diamond, hyalouronic acid, niacinamide and adenosine which instantly penetrates the skin BEST FOR: uneven skintone Call Glomar Trading: +971 4 440 5163

New Products

77

Elemental Herbology Perfect for breakouts, the award-winning Vital Cleanse from Elemental Herbology is a purifying cleanser, which contains only natural ingredients. Natural botanicals work together to stimulate cell turnover, minimise breakouts and protects skin from environmental damage for a overall healthy complexion BEST FOR: acne Call The Product House: +971 4 379 1966

Phytomer The Citylife is a 2-in-1 cream for face and eyes which protects and repairs the skin from the damage caused by urban pollution: dehydration, signs of fatigue, dark spots and dull complexion. The sorbet like texture intensively moisturises the skin revealing a more even complexion BEST FOR: dark spots Call Beauty Leaders: +971 2 676 4600

Linda Meredith NET-45 is a rich moisturiser for mature or very dry skin which has highly active ingredients to fight pigmentation, sun damage and aging. Packed with beta glucan, vitamin A and B5 these ingredients nourish and feed the skin. Citrus oils such as lime and orange help brightens the skin and reduces the signs of age spots. Sweet almond oil, avocado and camellia oil coupled with chamomile and geranium helps nourish and repair BEST FOR: pigmentation Call Ener Beauty: +971 4 431 5250

Thalgo The Wrinkle Lifting Serum from Thalgo is a powerfully concentrated serum which targets wrinkles and fine lines. The Marine Silicium Complex provides a lifting effect whilst mica and diamond micro-particles instantly brightens the face BEST FOR: fine lines and wrinkles Call Madi International: +971 4 338 2773

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Calendar

80

Diary

DATES

MARCH 15-18 COSMOPROF Bologna Fair District, Italy Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is a leading worldwide event for the professional beauty sector and an international platform for the cosmetics and wellness industry www.cosmoprof.com MARCH 19-20 DUBAI DERMA Dubai International Convention & Exhibition Centre, Dubai, UAE The 18th annual Dubai World Dermatology and Laser conference and exhibition is organised in cooperation with the Dubai Health Authority (DHA) and the International Academy of Medical Specialisation (IAMS) www.dubaiderma.com

APRIL 22-23 NATURAL & ORGANIC PRODUCTS, EUROPE ExCeL, London, UK Europe’s biggest trade show for the natural product market is design for buyers of everything from natural healthcare products, natural and organic foods, through to natural personal care and eco-household products www.naturalproducts.co.uk MAY 8-11 BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAE A large, international fair for the beauty, hair, fragrance and wellbeing sectors, this event brings together more than 1,570 exhibitors from more than 57 countries www.beautyworldme.com

Contact us to become an authorized supplier of

CONTACT US +971 4 431 7919 +971 55 341 9114 info@jbc-lucrae.com Spa | Facials | Body | Health Supplements DIAMOND BUSINESS CENTRE, OFFICE 202C, ARJAN, DUBAILAND, DUBAI, PO BOX 122103, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Office: +971 4 374 6939 | Gemma@beautifulbrands.me www.beautifulbrands.me

Semi Permanent Make Up Arabia (SPMU Arabia) Amiea By Marilan PO Box: 392741, Unit 2409, Burlington Tower, Business Bay, Dubai UAE

www.marilan.co/ kasraakbari@spmu.ae.org/ Phone:+9714-2766334

ADVERTISE HERE Email us: maricel@professionalbeauty.ae

SERVICES OFFERED Protein • Blowdry • Keratin & Botox Bridal Services • Manicure and Pedicure Hair Style • Chinese Massage & Spa Visit Us: Al Wasl Road Um Al Sheif Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 50 757 7343/ +971 4 3791293 Email us: info@baraviabeauty.com/ Follow us: @baraviabeauty/ baraviabeauty


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High-end spa, wellness and medical equipment. Made in Germany.

PediSpa Series

Libra Horizontal Choreographic Shower Series

MLX Quartz Spa Table Series

MLW Transform First Transform Sofa To Massage Table

MLX Limber Patented Universal Spa Table

MLW Spa Table Series

Gharieni Middle-East • Dubai Design District D3 • Building 1 • Office B208 • Dubai Tel: +971 (0) 4 276 6734 • info@gharieni.ae • www.gharieni.ae

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