April 2016
For your beauty, hair and spa business
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Quiet success
Tailor your sales training to introverts
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Published by and (C) 2015 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributing editor: Zoe Moleshead zoe@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Andrea Anastasiou, Maria Dowling, Sally Hewerdine, and Dr Mike Ryan Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae Sales executive: Fernanda Chavez Fernanda@professionalbeauty.ae Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Marketing Manager: Nicki Wyatt nicki@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production:
Scratch Advertising & Communication www.scratchcom.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.
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in this issue... Regulars 7
News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty
20 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 28 Ask the experts Advice on thinning hair, colouring, targeted weight loss and eye treatments 61 Treatment news We share our experiences of new and innovative treatments
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Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
20 Hairdressers Journal
67 Product news Our pick of the latest product launches 72 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training
50 Essential styling Fresh looks for the season 56 Step into spring Brush up on blow-drying techniques
Features 32 True perfection We catch up with the creators of high end skincare line Swiss Perfection
welcome
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T
h is issue we a re embracing nature w it h a focus on t he t herapeut ic power of pla nt s. On page 23, Aquatic Adventure provides an interesting focus on the benefits of marine-based skincare and how this can add benefit to your beauty or spa business. Following the theme, Truly Perfect on page 32 is an inter view with Swiss Perfection, a brand that refuses to compromise on quality and harnesses the root of the Iris Germanica to create a unique range of skincare. With an emphasis on reconnecting with nature, new initiative State-ofOne is based on yogic principles, creative therapy and meditation. The couple behind the new ser vice believes it could help UAE spas provide a true wellness offering. Read more on page 45. For a business to f lourish, healthy retail sales are necessar y, yet many owners lament the fact that their therapists, who may be wonderful at performing treatments, dislike selling. We take a novel approach to tackling this issue by looking at what makes therapists tick. Those attracted to becoming therapists are often, by nature, introverted and caring yet most sales training is designed for extrovert personalities. Read our tips for targeting your sales training to introverts in Quiet Success , page 38. We’d be interested in hearing your thoughts on this topic so don’t forget to send us your feedback. Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR
61 On the cover 23 Aquatic adventure Marine skincare focus 38 Quiet success Successful sales training for introvert therapists 45 Be at one A new initiative set to help UAE spas achieve an authentic wellness offering
67
49
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
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News
All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa
Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi and Fairmont The Palm shine in spa awards
T
he Spa at the Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi and the Willow Stream spa at Fairmont, The Palm, Dubai, outshone the competition and were named winners in the prestigious World Spa and Wellness Awards 2016. Taking place at Grade II-listed venue The Brewery, on February 28 in London, the awards, which included networking and a lavish dinner, were hosted by Professional Beauty London. The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal was named Best Hotel Spa of the Year, Middle East and Africa. Paris Kounoudis, director of spa commented: “The award is a testament to the dedication and professionalism that the ladies and gentlemen working at the
spa have consistently demonstrated in the two years since the spa’s opening.” “From creating exclusive body rituals inspired by the culture of Arabia to ensuring every element of the spa journey is an experience that our guests want to relive over and over again, we were able to position the spa at The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi as the leading spa in Abu Dhabi and in the region.” The Willow Stream Spa at the Fairmont, The Palm, Dubai triumphed in the Resort Spa of the Year category. “The team at Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont The Palm and I are very pleased to be recognised by the Professional Spa and Wellness Awards judging committee and to receive such a prestigious accolade,” said Kamal
Khalil director of spa and recreation, Fairmont The Palm. “Firstly, I would like to thank my spa and wellness team members. Their passion and dedication is reflected in everything they do from greeting guests to our spa, carrying out spa treatments, to post treatment consultation, all in all creating special memories and reasons for guests to return. “Our vision moving forward is very clear, provide excellence in our service and being constantly on top of the curve of trending lifestyle. With new innovative treatments, beauty products and fitness programs we support wellbeing, active regime and make sure guests feel good about themselves.”
Kiefer talks Dreamworks transformation It’s just over a year since Christian Kiefer joined private equity group Cedar Bridge to oversee Dreamworks Spas and Zen Yoga Studios, but in that timeframe a distinctive transformation, most notably with Dreamworks, has transpired. Kiefer explains that Dreamworks is now positioning itself as a “spa consultancy and offering turnkey solutions for owners and general managers alike.” He adds that Dreamworks has been particularly successful in tapping into the previously overlooked spa sector in 3 and 4 star hotels. “We are focusing predominantly on 3 and 4 star hotels hotels where the consistency of quality levels in Dubai is still in need of improvement. Slowly Dreamworks will close its standalone centres as I believe the future lies in 4 star and boutique hotels, which have been completely neglected in the past
years,” Kiefer explains. Kiefer’s plans for this particular hospitality segment include providing a consistently high level of service and quality, while at the same time introducing operational efficiency and improvements to the bottom line. “Dreamworks is offering a flexible business model with a clear win/win aim for the owners and is therefore completely distancing itself from other consultants who are charging high flat fees and high consultancy fixed costs,” he says adding: “Our construction team is spot on and delivers with accuracy and according to timelines.” Kiefer reveals that the last eight months have seen the company go from “knocking on doors” to “receiving calls and enquiries on a weekly basis”. Its spa operational contracts have already
exceeded expectations and Kiefer says he is excited about what the future holds. “My goal is to close with 50 spas by the end of 2017 which would make us the biggest operator in the ME/Asia region that is not franchised.”
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
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Espa reveals two new projects in KSA
S
kincare brand and spa management company Espa has announced two new projects in Saudi Arabia. Strengthening the brand’s presence in the country, the Al Faisaliah Spa by Espa at Al Faisaliah Hotel Riyadh is scheduled to open later this year. The spa will feature separate spa areas for men and women and a treatment
menu created exclusively for the spa by the Espa team. Espa founder and chairman Sue Harmsworth said: “This is a particularly exciting time in our partnership with Al Khozama Management Company. We are proud of the success of our first spa and very much look forward to other new openings planned for the future.” The British company is also working
with the Al Khozama Management Company, chaired by Prince Bandar bin Saud Al Saud, on a project scheduled for completion by the end of the decade. The Al Khozama Lifestyle Club and Spa by Espa will be a private men’s club and spa and will be located in the Al Khozama Hotel in Riyadh. The club will comprise expansive spa and fitness facilities.
WellMassage scoops innovation award
WellMassage 4D, a collaboration between spa consultancy Tip Touch International and spa equipment manufacturer Gharieni, has been selected for a Wellness & Spa Innovation 2016 Award. Bestowed by the German Wellness Association, the Wellness & Spa Innovation Awards are presented to companies that have created “innovative solutions for the wellness and spa market”. Given at the Beauty Dusseldorf trade fair on March 6, the awards honoured a series of companies across the beauty, spa and hotel sectors. WellMassage 4D won in the Beauty and Body Care Treatments category. WellMassage 4D was developed specifically for use on Gharieni’s MLX, MLR and MLR Wet treatment beds. The massage, which sees the client remain on their back throughout, makes use
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
of the eight different couch positions the treatment beds have, while also incorporating hands-on techniques. Available as 50 and 80-minute options, the WellMassage 4D comes in two versions: Relax and Deep; the latter developed for clients looking for deep tissue work. Jean-Guy, founder and chief executive of spa consultancy Tip Touch International said: “To date, 90 per cent of massages have been performed on a flat table, so we decided to give guests and therapists a new perspective on what makes a good massage great. “For the past 15 years, I have been a spa and wellness educator, trainer and motivator, always encouraging spa managers and their teams to steer away from classic massages and copycat spa menus in order to create unique sensorial experiences. “Having designed signature
massages and wellness experiences for major cosmetic brands and hospitality groups, I am like Sammy [Gharieni, chief executive officer and founder of Gharieni] always searching for ways to deliver ‘wow’ moments, when guests savour the ‘Wonders of Wellness’, feeling fully alive and aware of their clear mind, their peaceful heart and their re-energised body. “Winning the 2016 Spa and Wellness Innovation Awards with Sammy Gharieni and his passionate team tells me we are doing a few things right: leaving guests in awe, making them want to come back for more and creating a new method for therapists that helps prevent stress repetitive injuries and giving spa managers and owners a new fun and physiologically rewarding spa massage that will drive revenue with gift certificates and repeat guests.”
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GWS announces Back to the Future theme
T
he Global Wellness Summit (GWS) has announced the theme for the 2016 summit in Kitzbühel, Austria. The event, the tenth annual summit, will be held under the theme of Back to the Future. The GWS said in a statement that the summit will “examine the future of spa and wellness through the lens of history”. The summit, taking place in the Austrian Tyrol on October 17-19, will look at a series of wellness topics predicted to be key going forward. These include the fusion of wellness and medicine, wellness within
Gharieni marks 25 years German manufacturer of premium wellness and treatment couches and furniture, Gharieni, is celebrating its 25th anniversary. The company say its recipe for success is “unique innovations, elegant design, outstanding functionalities and uncompromising quality with exceptional customer service”. Based in Germany, Gharieni has branches in France, Netherlands, Belgium, Dubai and since last year also in the USA.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
communities and the extent to which government policies around the world are increasingly beginning to cover wellness. Other topics at the summit will include the technological advancements making wellness more accessible, the economic outlook for the spa market in Europe and the difference between “wellness” and “wellbeing”. The summit will be co-hosted by Sue Harmsworth, founder and chief executive of skincare brand and spa consultancy Espa and Franz Linser, founder and managing director of international consulting firm Linser
Hospitality. As part of the summit’s future focus, delegates will be asked to submit their predictions for the wellness industry, to be locked in a “10th anniversary time capsule” and opened at the 2026 summit. The 2016 summit will also see a change to the annual student competition. This year, university students from around the world will be encouraged to submit an “innovative, impactful business idea” covering any aspect of wellness. Three finalists will then be flown in to the summit to present their ideas on stage in front of delegates.
Anantara has announced plans to open two hotels in Oman this year: the Al Baleed Resort in Salalah and the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort in the northeast of Oman. The Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar is set in the rocky contours of the vast Saiq Plateau on Oman’s Green Mountain, and perched 2,000m (6,562ft) above sea level on the curving rim of a large canyon. Designed to reflect traditional Omani architecture, the resort blends into the surrounding landscape, offering panoramic canyon views. It will include 82 bedrooms and 33 villas with private swimming pools and personal butler services, as well as an Anantara Spa with Thai and Arabian treatments. The 1,450sq m (15,608sq ft) spa will include a private hammam with heated marble surface that will offer Bikram Yoga, as well as five treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites.
Separate male and female thermal suites will each include a Himalayan salt steamroom, aroma-infused sauna room, experience rain showers, indoor relaxation bed chambers, outdoor relaxation patio with loungers, a wet area featuring a heated vitality pool with whirlpool and a health station with nutritious snacks, fresh fruit, infused water and herbal teas. The Anantara Al Baleed Resort – Salalah will be situated between a scenic beach and a freshwater lagoon, with a design inspired by Dhofar’s heritage and the region’s coastal fortresses. It will include 40 bedrooms as well as 88 villas with private pools and butler services. The resort will also include an Anantara Spa, which will offer hammam rituals and Arabian rituals, as well as an infinity pool, fully-equipped gym and tennis courts. Kim Milton has been named director of spa and recreation.
Anantara’s Omani expansion plans
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Tracey Woodward joins Aromatherapy Associates as CEO
A
romatherapy Associates has announced that Tracey Woodward will take over as chief executive from April 7. Woodward will replace Muriel Zingraff-Shariff, who joined the brand, which is popular in the Middle East and partnered by The Product House, in December 2014. Since June 2014, Woodward has been a retained consultant to B&B Investment Partners, which acquired
Aromatherapy Associates in February 2014. Woodward is a familiar name to many in the industry, having previously built the Aveda brand in the UK, worked as commericial director of Urban Retreat in Harrods and Harvey Nichols and as general manager for Modern Organic Products. She also founded East Dulwich Deli. Her other previous roles have included brand management at Donna Karan Beauty and, most recently,
advisor to Marks & Spencer, where she helped redesign and develop the beauty department. Woodward commented: “Aromatherapy Associates is an iconic British brand and our intention is to build on the legacy of brand founder Geraldine Howard. We aim to stay true to the authenticity and heritage of both Aromatherapy Associates and The Refinery, and further develop our offering of exceptional services and products”.
Millennials prioritise wellness travel Wellness elements are a bigger travel priority for Millennials than for their older counterparts, according to new data from Spafinder Wellness. The second part of Spafinder Wellness’s eighth annual State of Wellness Travel Report revealed that those under 50, Millennials and younger Generation X members, prioritise wellness aspects of travel to a greater extent than those over 50 – Baby Boomers and older Generation X members. The report is based on feedback
from travel agents across North America and Europe, looking at 16 different wellness components. While every category ranked as at least “important” with all age groups, those under 50 consistently gave higher scores on the 1-10 scale. The biggest differences were seen in the categories of outdoor adventure programmes and activities, fitness/yoga facilities and classes, voluntourism and community-based initiatives and the property being eco-friendly. Spafinder Wellness chief
operating officer John Bevan said: “Not only do younger travellers demand more wellness offerings in general, they seek more intensive, out-in-nature adventure and fitness.” Fore the Baby Boomer generation, a luxury spa resort is the property of choice, while a beach destination tops the list for Millennials and Gen X travellers. The third favourite property type for these two groups is authentic yoga retreats, a property type that does not figure in the Baby Boomer’s top four.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
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international news
professionalbeauty.ae
17 Industry news from around the globe
Professional Beauty London 2016 draws international buyers
W
ith more than 800 brands showcasing innovations and trends for the year ahead, Professional Beauty London was nothing short of a massive feat. Some 33,240 salon, spa and clinic owners, therapists, nail technicians and students visited the show at London’s ExCel on February 28 and 29 to see the latest launches set to shape the market. The world’s leading beauty and spa brands were exhibiting at the show, including Gerrard International (Mii, Jessica and BeautyLab London), Elemis, Dermalogica, Caci and Sweet Squared (CND, MoroccanTan, Waxperts), and they were particularly impressed with the number of serious
buyers wanting to open accounts. The two-day extravaganza included live demonstrations, make-up and nail competitions, seminars that covered a broad range of industry topics and untold networking opportunities, as well as global conference platforms at the Professional Spa and Wellness Convention and the International Manufacturers and Distributors Forum. Many exhibitors commented that the show was a stellar success, with a high number of serious buyers in attendance. Sweet Squared director Samantha Sweet said the show had been “phenomenal”, adding, “We’ve been doing the show for years but this year we’ve been chatting and engaging with customers much more. The footfall has been amazing.”
Meanwhile Lorraine Jackson, divisional sales manager for Grafton International (Orly, IBD and Eyelash Emporium) commented: “This show feels like it did back in the good old days – it’s buzzy, there are good quality visitors and key accounts are visiting us on stand. We have been very busy on all three stands.” L’Oréal's Decléor and Essie stands were also extremely busy and national sales director Ian Bailey said, “We sold a huge amount of product on both. It’s also been a great opportunity to hold meetings with all our key accounts.” Anna Coull, marketing manager at High Definition (formerly HD Brows), added, “It has been our best year in terms of revenue. Interest in our training has also been incredible.”
Raison d’Etre unveils Ki spa in Cairo Voya launches in Spa management company Raison d’Etre has announced the opening of a new spa in Cairo, Ki spa. The spa, located in the Palm Club, a country clubstyle venue in the Egyptian capital, will span 3,500sq m and is said to be the largest in Cairo. The 11 treatment room spa will feature saunas, steam rooms, an indoor pool, a mediation space, a manicure/pedicure area and a room dedicated to visiting practitioners. In addition there will be a couples’ suite with a private steam room and a whirlpool, and two couples’ suites in the lagoon area. The spa will also comprise of a tea garden where clients can relax before and after treatments and a spa café with a focus on healthy cuisine.
Furthermore, there will be a 650sq m fitness centre, with a studio for exercise classes, and 10 personal trainers, among other amenities and services. The concept behind the spa centres on the four elements of fire, water, earth and air: with fire symbolising nurture, water the connection to our emotions, earth grounding and stability and air creativity and inspiration. The four elements are reflected in the Ki spa treatments, which include the Ayurvedic abhyanga massage, incorporating warm oils to detox and heal, and the Seawater Pearl facial with caviar and seawater pearls. Swedish spa consultancy Raison d’Etre has designed and consulted on and will manage the launch of the spa, built in collaboration with the Palm Hills Development company.
Irish castle
Irish skincare brand Voya has launched in the spa at Ashford Castle. The spa, which is located in County Mayo, Ireland now offers a series of Voya treatments, including massages, facials, body wraps and scrubs, and treatments for the hands and feet. Among the Voya treatments on the menu at the five treatment room spa is the one-hour Seaweed Hot Stone Massage, incorporating the use of seaweed leaves and hot stones to relax the mind and reduce tension in the body. Also on the menu is a collection of Voya facials, including the Anti-Ageing and the detoxing Ocean Fresh Facial, both 75 minutes, and the 90-minute Deluxe Facial Experience. Gayle Kelly, international sales manager at Voya, said: “We are delighted to be part of the prestigious Ashford Castle and spa. Ashford Castle and Voya share the philosophy of delivering a first class spa experience for all guests, one that is memorable and timeless.” Facilities at the spa include a hammam, a steam room, a pool, a fitness centre and a terrace with views over the nearby lake. Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
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insider
professionalbeauty.ae
20 The month in numbers
Average Treatment Room Occupancy
83
%
Insider beauty, hair and nails
How did the treatment business in March 2016 compare with March 2015?
78 22
% better
same
%
Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
March 2016 continues on a positive footing with business and occupancy figures remaining strong. Encouragingly many of you said year-on-year business is better, with a smaller number saying it remains the same. Surprisingly, no one reported negative growth. In other areas of the business, we discovered that an overwhelming number of you have procedures in place to check expiry dates of products – a positive finding given Municipality clamp downs in this area. We also found out that most of you are happy to test treatments on your staff before rolling them out to clients.
Percentage of clients who rebooked
73
%
On the spot Which age group do the majority of your clients fall into? 1. 20-30 years 2. 31-40 years 3. 41-50 years 4. 51 years and above
98
%
have a procedure in place for checking expiry dates of products Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
What benefits do you offer to regular/repeat clients? 1. Discounted treatment prices 2. Free gift (product) 3. Free service after they have purchased a set number of treatments 4. No benefits
95
%
allow staff to try out new treatments
insider
professionalbeauty.ae
21 The month in numbers
Average treatment room occupancy
79
%
How did the treatment business in March 2016 compare with March 2015?
Insider Spa Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
63 37
% BETTER
same
%
March This year is still showing signs that it will buck last year’s rollercoaster of returns, with treatment room occupancy figures remaining strong and rebooking rates also holding their own. Coupled with year-on-year figures that suggest business is growing and the outlook is one of optimism. When it comes to your customers we discovered that the majority are age 30 or over. Surprisingly, you don’t offer any benefits or rewards to repeat clients but encouragingly, all respondents confirmed that you have in place clear guidelines for reviewing and checking the expiry dates of products.
Percentage of clients who rebooked
52
%
On the spot Which age group do the majority of your clients fall into? 1. 31-40 years 2. 41-50 years 3. 20-30 years 4. 51 years and above
100%
have a procedure in place for checking expiry dates of products
What benefits do you offer to regular/repeat clients? 1. No benefits 2. Discounted treatment prices 3. Free service after they have purchased a set number of treatments 4. Free gift (product)
97%
allow staff to try out new treatments Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
www.provocmakeup.com
marine focus
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Aquatic advantages
Rachael Glazier looks at what makes marine products and treatments so diverse, and discusses why working with them could be a great move for your spa
W
ellbeing is an increasing concern for
based brand Thalgo, which is distributed in the Middle East
spa clients and marine products and
by Madi International, explains that there are a staggering
treatments can offer a great way to
25,000 types of algae, of which 50 are used for food and in
tap into this demand.
beauty products and treatments. Thalgo includes 35 of
The composition of seawater is
these in its products.
very similar to that of human blood. Nicola Simmons, sales
Dr Wolfgang Mayer is chief operating officer of recently
and training manager for French marine brand Phytomer,
launched organic skincare line Vetia Mare, which uses marine
available in the Middle East from Beauty Leaders explains
active ingredients in its products. Mayer emphasises the
that: “During the Second World War, when there was a
“amazing protection systems” of sea plants, including algae
shortage of blood for transfusions for soldiers, seawater
that give them anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
was used in its place.” All the trace elements in our blood,
Meanwhile, Leon Trayling, director and co-founder of
of which there are just over 100, including calcium, zinc and
skincare brand Ishga, reports that the Hebridean seaweed
magnesium, are present in seawater, Simmons explains.
the company uses has been found in tests to have four times the amount of antioxidants of a synthetic antioxidant. Ásta Einarsdóttir, managing director and co-owner of Icelandic marine skincare brand Dr Bragi, says that marine products are particularly well suited to targeting many of the health concerns we face. “All harmful micro-organisms, such as bacteria, viruses and fungi, are essentially protein based," she says, adding that: "The marine enzymes used in Dr Bragi's formulation specifically target these proteins by disabling them, thereby protecting the skin.” Kira Walton, co-founder of seaweed-based Irish skincare brand Voya, available through the Product House, which uses four main groups of seaweed in its products, explains
It's not just seawater: there are numerous plants and
that: “Taken in their purest form, marine-based products
creatures in our oceans that offer wellbeing and skincare
work to naturally cleanse and purify the skin, helping to
benefits. Judith Emslie, UK marketing manager for marine-
improve suppleness and elasticity.”
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
marine focus
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25
Taken in their purest form, marine-based products work to naturally cleanse and purify the skin, helping to improve suppleness and elasticity.
psoriasis, eczema and acne would [particularly] benefit from using these ingredients.” Simmons
comments
that
the
rebalancing
and
restorative effects of marine ingredients are also beneficial for people who are coming out of an illness, even cancer, as long as the illness is not kidney related. Voya recommends a marine eye treatment for clients with a puffy eye area or dark circles under the eyes due to a build-up of toxins. Elemis, whose best-selling product is the Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, would suggest the Pro-Collagen Quartz Lift Facial, which uses brown seaweed, blue seaweed, red seaweed and coral peptides, among other ingredients, for clients looking to lift and hydrate the skin.
Diverse appeal From a spa point of view, one of the key benefits of marine products and treatments is the diverse conditions they can treat and the wide range of benefits they have. Vetia Mare uses collagen from jellyfish for anti-ageing effect. Simmons
comments
that
marine
products
“offer
detoxifying, sculpting, firming, fat burning, energising, hydrating, brightening
nourishing, effects”.
anti-ageing, While
marine
purifying,
and
products
Those suffering with a low immune system, lack of energy, poor circulation, arthritis, anti-ageing concerns and mild skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and acne would [particularly] benefit from using these ingredients.
and
A key ingredient across the Phytomer range is oligomer,
treatments are suitable for all skin types, ages and client
a freeze-dried form of seawater that contains reduced salt
needs, Charlotte Cook, UK training co-ordinator for
levels and is used by the brand in skincare products,
Pevonia, distributed by Momentum in the Middle East and
nutritional drinks and wellbeing treatments. Its benefits in
whose philosophy is based on the use of natural and
treatments, Simmons says, includes that "it puts all these
marine ingredients, says that "Those suffering with a low
minerals back into the body, which makes it very
immune system, lack of energy, poor circulation, arthritis,
balancing, especially for those who are tired, rundown
anti-ageing concerns and mild skin conditions such as
and need energy.”
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
marine focus
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27
For spas that don’t have a significant marine offering but are looking to change this, Simmons advises offering massages that use seawater ingredients. “They will give immediate, powerful, remineralising and rebalancing effects,
Profit margin Getting your therapists to buy into the brand is the most
but do not require a shower or a bath, and cost just a few
important part of marketing their products and services, and
pounds to carry out,” she says.
marine lines are no exception. Holding open evenings where
If your spa has the space then a seaweed bath can be popular
guest speakers educate clients about the wellbeing benefits
for wellbeing treatments. While not all spas will have the space
of marine ingredients can be helpful, although the commonly
to offer seaweed baths, most marine treatments are well suited
held view is that open-evenings are only well attended if a
both to city spas and to resort and destination spas. Spas
free product or treatment is included. Social media is now
located by the sea have a clear synergy with marine treatments.
used by most spas to instantly alert people to new
The wide and varied properties of marine products and
treatments and special offers, so include information that
treatments mean that all spas, no matter what size or
will educate clients on the wellbeing aspect of marine
location, can offer clients a marine-based treatment with a
treatments and packages in your online communication.
health and wellbeing aspect.
Elemis call Spa Resources on +971 4 324 54 14 Pevonia call Momentum on + 971 4 334 38 23 Phytomer call Beauty Leaders on +971 2676 46 00 Thalgo call Madi International on +971 4 338 27 73
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
business tips
professionalbeauty.ae
28
Ask the Experts Our beauty professionals answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Hair loss is a big concern among many of our clients. How can we identify what is normal hair loss and what may be a more serious issue?
T
he best way to think of the way hair grows is to picture a garden. How well it grows is completely a result of what is happening “underground”. A normal hair cycle should lead to a product, which is the hair, but things that interfere with the cycle, like medication, illness, infection, or chemicals, have the potential to stop hair from being formed properly. Most people lose anywhere from 50 to 100 strands of hair each day. On the days when hair is washed, people can lose up to 250 strands. But this shouldn’t discourage washing in an attempt to keep the hair, as it will fall out eventually, anyway. There are ways to know when hair is thinning, or being lost at a higher rate. Women will often see a difference when waking up in the morning; there may be an unusually large amount of hair on their pillow, or when hair is combed (especially without tugging, which can pull the hair out), more hair than normal will be left in the comb. There are also other visual cues that women can look for over time. Although men’s hair tends to recede from the forehead or the crown of the head, women tend to notice thinning on the top third to one half of the scalp. Sometimes their frontal line stays intact but women may see more of their scalp than normal when their hair is pulled back. If a person is suffering hair loss, the best advice I can give is to get it checked by a hair loss specialist or a trichologist sooner rather than later. At VTC, we believe that a successful treatment starts with the correct diagnosis. When a client comes in to VTC with concerns about hair loss, there is a combination of ways to make a
diagnosis. Preliminary blood work is usually taken to make sure that the thyroid gland or an autoimmune disease isn’t the culprit. You can also diagnose what the problem is just by looking and listening. Ask what a patient’s mother, or relatives look like, if they have similar, or greater amounts, of hair loss. Using magnification on the scalp can show if a woman’s follicles vary in size, with some thick and others thin. These are two tell tale signs of female pattern hair loss, also called androgenetic alopecia. This is a hereditary condition that affects about 30 million women and is the most common kind of hair loss. It happens to about 50 per cent of women. Although it mostly occurs in the late 50s or 60s, it can happen at any time, even during teenage years. Typically, each time a normal hair follicle is shed, it is replaced by hair that is equal in size. But in women with female pattern hair loss, the new hair is finer and thinner. The hair follicles are shrinking and eventually they stop growing altogether. If hair follicles are uniform in size, or if the hair loss is sudden, it is unlikely to be caused by heredity condition. There are a wide range of conditions that can bring on hair loss, with some of the most common being pregnancy, thyroid and anemia. Others include autoimmune diseases, PCOS and skin conditions such as psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. Other reasons for hair loss include extreme stress, physical trauma like surgery or intense illness and dramatic weight loss over a short period of time. And hair loss can occur for a couple of weeks to six months after any of these experiences.
Amin Sheybani is the founder, owner and chief executive officer of Vivandi Trichology Centre (VTC). He created VTC based on the hair loss he experienced when he moved to Dubai 20 years ago and is a sought after expert in the field of international, non-surgical hair loss from the worlds of fashion, business, and entertainment in the Middle East.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
business tips
29
We’ve heard a lot about targeted weight loss solutions — but aren’t really clear on how or why they work. We’d also like some tips on the best way to market these solutions?
U
sually, most people have a predisposition to store fat in certain parts of their body, like their stomach, buttocks, hips and thighs. Due to lifestyle and genetic predisposition, there is low blood circulation in these areas and so this fat is not easy to get rid of with conventional exercise. When we do conventional training we tend to lose weight in areas with good blood circulation but not so much in the problem areas. That's where HYPOXI comes in, as it offers targeted fat burning, weight loss and targeted body shaping. The science behind HYPOXI is simple. We all have those areas of stubborn fat and cellulite that regular exercise just won’t budge no matter how many kilometres we run or yoga sessions we do. For women, it’s the hips, bottom and thighs while for men, it’s the stomach, abdomen and love handles. HYPOXI combines vacuum and compressions with low impact exercise and healthy nutrition to optimise fat burning in these problem areas. It increases blood circulation in the target areas through vacuum therapy and then removes the fatty acid from these areas during the compression phase. Light aerobic exercise within the patented vacuum chamber stimulates the metabolism of the fat in
the stubborn areas thereby burning fat more effectively than conventional exercise. It has been scientificallyproven to be three times more effective than regular exercise. Further benefits in selecting a solution like HYPOXI are that it is natural, non-invasive and quick. It works well for people of all ages, shapes and sizes, no matter their level of fitness. It increases a person’s level of fitness, their metabolism, gets them active, and helps them to stay in shape, lose weight and burn fat. It complements people who work out regularly and those with long term weight goals; it also helps people who want perfection. It even works well with people who cannot do conventional exercise and helps people who have undergone cosmetic procedures, pre and postsurgery, to lose and maintain weight loss. When it comes to marketing such a product and treatment, we have found from our experience a very strong word of mouth and referral system to be effective. We are very client-oriented and have special loyalty programmes and other incentives. Advertising in print, digital media and radio has also been very effective; we complement it with regular communication with our clients through email and SMS marketing.
Allison Pickford, a pioneer in the business of body shaping, is the founder of Hypoxi UAE and BodySmart. She started her business in the UAE in 2005 and exclusively manages the distribution of the Hypoxi concept across the UAE.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
business tips
31 When it comes to products eye treatments, what are the ingredients should I be looking and what are the best methods applying these products?
for key for, for
T
he skin around the eyes is the thinnest and the most sensitive. While its structure is the same as the rest of the skin, there are almost no muscles under the eyes and no adipose tissue, that’s why eye contour skin tends to stretch and wrinkle, and lines form faster than on other areas of the face. Therefore it’s important to have proper care for eye contour skin. A regular face cream doesn’t suit the eye area. The reason is the molecules and the texture of the cream are bigger, and so it is not suitable for the eye contour. Depending on the intended use, the texture of eye contour cosmetic products, as well as the ingredients, are different. There are two main concerns when we’re talking about the eye contour area: lines and wrinkles and puffiness/bags. Daily fatigue, a consequence of our accelerated rhythm of life, reflects on our face and particularly on our eye contour. Bags under the eyes are the most evident sign of cellular fatigue. The part of the glucose that is not consumed is at risk of oxidising and producing glycotoxins that accumulate in the cell and modify its properties, thus producing cellular fatigue, with several consequences on the skin and especially the eye contour: bags under the eyes, puffiness, dull tone, and an ageing look. The best ingredients, to help reduce or eliminate these conditions, are very widely used and include caffeine, which has a draining and micro-circulation stimulating power; Albizia extract, also known as “the silk tree”, which minimises the toxins accumulated in the cells, and Zinc-Glycine Complex, which optimises the skin’s stress capital. (Research within the laboratories of Germaine de Capuccini made an important discovery that led to the formulation of Zinc-Glycine Complex, which achieved the highest award at the 20th IFSCC Conference. This ingredient remained exclusive to Germaine de Capuccini until 2012.) With regard to lines and wrinkles, we have to understand that there are two conditions causing them, our expressions and emotions, and dryness. So choosing in an eye contour product to fight with these signs of ageing, we have to choose products containing hyaluronic acid, peptides, botox-like ingredients, antioxidants and moisturising agents and rosemary, camellia, chamomile extracts, as well as vitamins A, C and E.
Due to increasing client interest we are looking to introduce an ammoniafree colour range, but I’d like to know what I should be looking for? Ammonia-free colouration is divided into two categories; tone on tone (usually used to add a soft reflect to natural hair and for toning highlights) and permanent colour, which gives the same result as classic colour in terms of grey coverage, lifting and colour intensity. Most of the brands claiming ammoniafree colouration are using MEA as an alternative alkaline agent; this agent is very safe if used in a very low percentage and it is mostly used in semi-permanent/ tone on tone colouration. To achieve permanent colour results with MEA, some colour brands are using a higher percentage of MEA, which can be as equally harmful as ammonia; this is why INOA [by L’Oréal Professionnel] is considered as the most reliable and safest ammoniafree permanent colouration worldwide. It uses L’Oréal’s patented oil-based technology ODS (oil delivery system) that enables us to replace ammonia with a very low percentage of MEA and still get perfect permanent hair colour results with the best hair integrity and scalp comfort. With INOA technology comes a specific yet simple application technique that promotes the benefits of a 100 per cent ammonia-free colour. INOA colour service should be priced slightly higher than classic colour service since the technology itself is more expensive and the results are unique. Naim Nahed is the regional education manager for L’Oréal Professionnel. He has 20 years experience in hairdressing, including 10 years as a creative director, and loves inspiring fellow hairdressers to achieve their best.
Svetlana Grishakova is the operational and technical manager of Reino Perfumes and Cosmetics Trading LLC, the sole distributor of “Germaine de Capuccini” in the UAE.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
interview
professionalbeauty.ae
32
True perfection In-depth R&D, passionate partners and a belief in delivering only results-driven, high quality skincare products are the secrets behind Swiss Perfection’s success
I
n a world so seemingly obsessed with having
formulas. This is an important value for us, every time we
everything in an instant, and where the latest
come with a product, we come with a quality product.”
product release is instantly granted “greatest”
This belief in creating only high quality products is also
status, it’s refreshing to meet the team behind
evidenced in the core ingredient for the Swiss Perfection
skincare range Swiss Perfection. Far from being
range, Cellular Active IRISA®, which is derived from the
sidetracked by the trends and fads that sweep the beauty
root
and spa industry, the Swiss brand has taken a dedicated,
Germanica’s benefits was not, however, a speedy one, and
thorough, qualitative and results-driven approach to
followed many years of research to find a vegetal cell that
creating its skincare range.
not only offered the desired properties but was stable
“The important thing is to do it because there is a
of
the
Iris
Germanica.
The
discovery
of
Iris
enough to be used in the creation of a product line.
benefit, not just for the sake of it or because it sounds
The research was centred around Clinique La Prairie in
good,” says Gregor Mattli, chairman of Swiss Perfection,
Montreux, which is owned by Gregor Mattli, and previously
when asked about the ever-evolving skincare sector.
his father, and which has always been at the forefront of
“We don’t run for new,” concurs Swiss Perfection’s CEO,
cellular cures. Early research at the Clinique had focused
Monica Kolakowska, who explains that the formulations
on the use of animal cells, but as time progressed and with
for Swiss Perfection’s products are created with the
the introduction of Kolakowska as a partner in the
utmost thought and care, the goal being to deliver
development of a cosmetics line, their focus turned to
products that truly benefit the skin.
vegetal cells.
“We give really special care to our formulations because
“We had the scientists and the infrastructure, so we
in today’s world women – and men – are developing
decided to try and create something vegetal using our
different types of problems and allergies. We like to solve
special cell technology which means that what we use is
these problems exactly, which means we are very cautious
not an extract, it is micronised cells, that are in a special
with the formulations; no perfume, no alcohol, no colour
way isolated and held intact and then integrated into
pigments, whatever is not needed or does not bring
cosmetics so that they can penetrate the skin and don’t
anything positive to the skin, we like to reject from our
lose their potency,” explains Mattli.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
interview
professionalbeauty.ae
33
Discovering the Iris Germanica took several years
developing and remaining true to its goals and
and Mattli says many attempts at finding a cell that
beliefs. “We are a very small company – two owners –
could be micronised and stabilised. But with the
we don’t have 2,000 shareholders; we can really
unearthing of the Iris Germanica and its beneficial
follow our passion and do what we stand for and
root, Mattli says “Swiss Perfection was born”.
what we believe in.”
Once again demonstrating its belief in taking a measured and controlled approach to its skincare range, instead of rushing a product line out, they opted to try it out at Clinique La Prairie first. “We were
overwhelmed
by
the
response,
many
nationalities flocked to the Clinique, and all kinds of skin types, and the response was so good. And that’s when we really became Swiss Perfection, a very high quality brand. It’s not a marketing gig, it’s really a
We are very cautious with the formulations; no perfume, no alcohol, no colour pigments, whatever is not needed or does not bring anything positive to the skin, we like to reject from our formulas
passion, it was really the response that said we have found something and then Monika took it from there.” Developing
Swiss
Perfection
hasn’t,
however,
meant marketing to the masses or pushing out a retail range to as wide an audience as possible, instead Swiss Perfection has retained its core values of creating a results-driven, niche-oriented, luxury skincare line. Kolakowska says the small size of Swiss Perfection has, in fact, played in its favour in terms of
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
Semi-Permanent Pencils 06
Hig
hM ain 07 t Div enan Win a Delu ce 09 eS xe Ch ant taine 10 11 S il d Str ophis ly La ce aw tic be a tio r n 12 ry Kis Bo se 13 mbsh s D e 15 Th 14 Lip elicio ll eO us Se t r 16 her W vice Sa tin oman 17 Sh Vin e tag e 18 e R ts Ir ose 20 19 Fe resis D e tib le 21 estin ling S Se ed a ss ale f d w or Lo y ve ith a 24 22 Kiss 23 He Sin Da at fu n of the gero l 25 u Mo 26 Re me s Au n tum ad M yL t nR ip 27 oman s 28 Ad S 29 ore ce Cin exy M nam Cab ern e on et &S u 30 De gar 32 sir Na e 3 ug hty 1 Vix d 33 on bu W 34 arm & t Nice Sce Fu 35 Se ne St zzy xy 37 e a S Plu ler il mp 36 ohet ed te Sm to o Pe 38 rfe lder Ba rely ction 39 Prin Th e c 41 Kis 40 H ess P re ide o sm 42 & S ut Tro e in t e ek he pic 43 N a u 44 Summ l Para de Cre d am er Su ise n 45 Pu * set 46 Sp N Se EW e du ce ll Bou 4 Me nd 48 7 Lus * Bit c ter ious NEW sw *N E eet 49 W *N Se xy E 51 Sca W Su rle n 55 Wil Kiss t ed dO 61 Wh rchid 65 ite Ch 66 Ho am All pag t Dr e n 68 Ro 67 ssed e yal Up Ma 69 gn En D 70 So iamo gage etic me nd me s thin nt &P gB ea 71 Bre orro rls we a 72 thtak d Do ing llho 73 u 74 Fairy se 75 Entra tale Ca nce 76 p t d Me sm ivatin eriz g eM 77 En e 78 v En cha ious 7 80 Pra 9 Luc ntin g ct ky 81 Yo Gil ically u de d G Magic la 8 83 Cru 2 Tem mour e pt 84 Me Th l Inte 85 is Me nsion a Sw s eet ns W ar Se c 86 ret D s 8 89 Sw 7 Dat esire d ee eN igh 90 t Cho Lim cola t o 98 t Mis Serv e ice che 99 Bla 100 vio ck A Ca us 101 fter Mid viar Int nig o 102 the N ht ig S 103 educ ht tiv Ca tW e 104 a 106 105 Te lk Ce U nte ase 107 p for rfo A ld Se rio nyth ing usly Se xy 08
Long Lasting Intense Colors
Regional Distributor
interview
professionalbeauty.ae
37 Mattli agrees adding: “We don’t have shareholders and shareholders always require a dividend or revenue and that is where you cut, you cut on production costs, ingredients and so on. That is one side where we can be very passionate, we use the best and it doesn’t matter, it is expensive and it is expensive in production for ourselves, but it’s a good product.” Given their passion for the products, it is unsurprising to discover that the Swiss Perfection team are selective about the spas that they partner with too. “Naturally we need to align with quality standards, the philosophy of service and what we want to offer. Today, luxury is service and this is why we work with the places where the service standards are very high,” explains Kolakowska. In the UAE they have found that alignment at the newly opened Iridium Spa at the St Regis Dubai,
Similarly to its product line, Kolakowska says its
currently the only Middle East spa offering its treatments.
treatments have been carefully planned. “We made our
Describing
its
approach
to
spa
treatments
Kolakowska says they are “high tech, high touch”. “We design our protocols in order to be fully resultoriented, we use a technology that is machine-based
treatments in the best way for the best results they can bring. Every gesture, every product, every step has been thought out, has a purpose, a meaning and is there for a reason.”
on microcurrents and that belongs to us as well. We like
Training and educating the spas and their therapists is
to say that our treatments are ‘high tech, high touch’
another area where Swiss Perfection takes a very
because there is the touch side and the know-how of
hands-on approach. “We service the client directly from
the therapist who wants to put her savoir-faire inside
Switzerland and we also train the client, which means
the treatment, as well as the technology side from the
our trainers travel and they train about the product, the
machine, all naturally combined with the product – it is
philosophy, the marketing, the approach, the protocol
a whole package.”
application. But we also work with high quality places that also have very well trained and qualitative personnel.
We use the best, it is expensive and it is expensive in production for ourselves, but it’s a good product
We have key account [managers] that are on a daily or weekly basis in contact with the spas, so the contact is very close and is always there,” details Kolakowska. Swiss Perfection may be a relative newcomer to the Middle East spa scene, but with its high quality products and treatments (see our review on page 71), it won’t take long for it to build a loyal client following. With that in mind Kolakowska says that there are already plans in place to develop a project in Abu Dhabi and one other site in the region. Whichever the next location maybe, Kolakowska says continuity in delivering the treatment and high quality service remains paramount. “We have a clientele that goes to London, to Paris and comes to Dubai and they want exactly the same experience. More than that, maybe some places try to make slight changes, if so, the clients will call us to report this, and say ‘they didn’t use your oil’. They recognise when it is not a Swiss Perfection product used in their protocol, which is completely incredible.”
The Product House is the logistics partner for Swiss Perfection in the UAE. For more details on the brand call +971 4 379 1966
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
training
professionalbeauty.ae
38
Quiet success Spa consultant and trainer Linda Harding-Bond explains why tailoring your retail sales training to introverts can help drive revenue, and make for a happier workforce
T
he growth of the global spa industry and the
situations; they’re composed and therefore able to
increased interest in wellness, health and
strategise more effectively; and there is no hard sell
beauty is something I’m thrilled about.
from them, they are less aggressive in their approach
However, there are significant challenges that
than extroverts.
need to be met in order to sustain that
growth and improve the outlook for the future. This
The spa introvert
includes the type of therapist training and education
Years before I became a spa consultant and trainer I
needed to ensure that sales increase significantly and that
worked for one of the largest telecommunications
the market is positively impacted. The industry is
companies in the US, where the Myers-Briggs Type
overlooking a secret weapon when it comes to driving
Indicator was used. This personality test assigns people
retail sales, one that is hidden in plain sight.
to one of four categories, based on their answers to a
The fact is that most spas don’t teach their therapists
series
of
questions,
defining
whether
they
are
retail sales skills and when they do, that training is
predominately introvert or extrovert, with levels in
rarely
predominant
between. The test is widely used in major corporations,
personality type among spa therapists. According to
designed
for
introverts,
with executives finding that it helps determine how to
Alen Mayer, author of Selling for Introverts , this group
best match staff to the appropriate type of training.
has certain strengths that makes them the ideal
Although different personality types exist in the spa
salespeople: they like to listen, which is critical in the
industry, introverts are naturally more drawn to the
initial stages of selling; they excel in one-on-one
serene and quiet atmosphere of spas.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
the
Available in Luxury Salons and Spas Exclusive Distributors in UAE and Kuwait
907 Platinum Business Center Al Nahda 2, Al Qusais, Dubai, UAE Phone: +97142206024 Email: info@beautylicious.com www.beautylicious.com
training
professionalbeauty.ae
41
This means there is a huge flaw in the sales training
Therapists who feel confident in what they do are
most spas give their staff, as most training is not
more likely to ask the right questions, make informed
targeted at introverts. This is a problem, because the
recommendations and deliver the type of personalised
right training for the therapist’s personality is important.
experience that customers are looking for.
If, for example, you have a team that is made up primarily of introverts, as is likely, you might find that they perform better in a low key, more nurturing environment. You might also find that focusing on aspects such as how taking the time to make a personal recommendation will make the client feel is an approach that will appeal to this personality type.
Redesigned training
Traditional sales training has always been designed for extroverts; the belief was that introverts couldn’t sell. The truth is that they have the same capability to sell as anyone else, they just process information differently
Competition in the beauty sector is fierce, with spas and salons up against department store beauty counters when it comes to product sales. An obvious competitive advantage spas and salons have over beauty counters is the therapists; trained professionals with in-depth knowledge of skin and of the body. However this advantage must be leveraged beyond
understand the art of engagement and be able to
mere product training.
questions, listen well, express empathy and offer the
To
generate
robust
sales,
therapists
must
deliver a superb customer experience. Most sales are not based on simply spewing product knowledge: customers buy from people who ask the right
Traditionally, spa training has consisted of educating
best way to address their concerns. If a therapist can
therapists on products, ingredients and treatment
do all of the above, there is a good chance customers
protocols but a different type of training is also
will purchase products from them and with proper
required, training that builds on the inherent talents of
training that matches the introvert personality, this
therapists and helps make them more confident.
can be accomplished.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
training
professionalbeauty.ae
43
Traditional sales training has always been designed
think about something in depth before making a
for extroverts. No consideration was given to introverts
decision. Let them know that their attention to detail
because the common belief was that they couldn’t sell.
will enable them to make impeccable product choices
The truth is that they have the same capability to sell as
for their clients.
anyone else; they just process information differently. In order to make training more effective, the following modifications can be made:
1
3
Create a safe space
Make a list Use a chart to list at least 10 qualities of an introvert and explain how those qualities help positively support the selling process.
When possible, create small groups of three to
Ask the therapists to write down which of the qualities
four students rather than a large circle or a
they associate with themselves. This will help them
standard classroom configuration. Don’t use
perceive themselves as successful sales people.
standard
icebreaker
exercises;
they
only
cause
performance anxiety. Instead pose a question like: “What is the most exotic food you’ve had in this city?” Allow five/ten minutes for them to think about their response and have them share their answers with their
4
Discuss obstacles Identify what is getting in the way of selling: the process of working through fears is critical
to
removing
self-doubt
and
overcoming obstacles. Always bear in mind
small group.
the sensitivity of introverts. Respect this and deliver
2
Set expectations of success Most
introverts
have
never
only positive feedback in public: give constructive received
criticism privately.
appreciation for their learning style. So at the
Making these changes in the way training is
start of the training and throughout it, they
conducted is a major step towards building a stronger
should receive acknowledgement for their tendency to
relationship with your team.
Linda Harding-Bond is president of Moontide Consulting, which offers retail training workshops, digital marketing and mystery shopper services to the global spa industry. She is the creator of Increasing Your Retail Selling, an online training programme designed to help spa managers increase the engagement and sales performance of their therapists. www.moontideconsulting.com
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
wellness
professionalbeauty.ae
45
Be at One
Could State-of-One help transform UAE spas into true wellness destinations? Fiona Vlemmiks meets Laura Kohlhase and Wissam Malaeb to find out
U
nequivocally, wellness is the future of spa —
Mata Amritanandamayi is widely regarded as one of
yet many businesses are struggling to
India’s foremost spiritual leaders and is known throughout
provide a genuine wellness offering. As
the world as Amma, or Mother, for her selfless love and
debated in the last edition of the Global
compassion toward all beings. It was Amma that set them
Wellness Summit, wellness can only be
on the journey that led to State-Of-One.
integrated into spas if it comes from an authentic source –
“She blessed us with knowledge and all the major shifts
as opposed to a public relations add-on. But how do spas
that have happened in our lives,” said Wissam. “We believe
find that source? Wissam Malaeb and Laura Kohlhase may
in oneness. That everything you see is one in life. Things
have the answer in State-of-One.
have different forms but the essence of those forms is the
I meet Wissam and Laura in Dubai, where they have chosen to launch State-of-One with the support of visionary
same energy and this is what we are trying to convey – what yoga is trying to convey.
entrepreneur Mr Ghassan Aridi, chairman of Grand Aurum Marketing (GAA) and Paramount Hotels and Resorts and founder and chief executive officer of Alpha Tours. Mr Aridi saw great promise in Wissam and Laura and their vision, so, through GAA, has been helping the couple spread awareness of their new venture. “I felt a calling to India that was really strong and came out of nowhere”, says German-born Laura. “I was studying drama therapy, creative therapy at HAN University in the Netherlands and I felt that my heart was calling me to India.”
Towards the end of our journey our guru instructed us to go and spread this knowledge to the world “We have been fortunate to be blessed by living gurus who opened the books for us, and directed us, and we therefore know the true essence of yoga. Towards the
Wissam, meanwhile, was working for the Italian NGO, CISP, in his native Lebanon. “I come from a background of studying psychology and behaviour and in my job I was asked to analyse people and label them,” he explains, “but a switch flicked in my brain at a certain point, and I started to think there was something beyond that. And then I thought the place to be if you have that kind of awakening is India. So I quit my job and went to India.” Laura embarked on a one-year internship at the Amrita Institute of Medical Science in Cochin (Kerala), Southern India, and the couple met each other and their Guru Mata Amritanandamayi Devi in the Amritapuri Ashram, also in Kerala.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
wellness
professionalbeauty.ae
47
end of our journey our guru instructed us to go and spread this knowledge to the world and with her guidance, instructions and personal contributions Stateof-One was born, which is why we are in Dubai!” Laura smiles, “We did not expect this lifetime project to happen but when you surrender to what is happening around you and you trust in the universe, it will give you its fruits.”
Wholeness in spas “The core of State-of-One is very simple, unique and modern,” says Wissam. “It’s based on a three-in-one concept, covering body, mind and energy. Compounded, we want to give participants the same experience that staying four or five months in an Ashram would provide. “I say humbly, that these are techniques that you will not find anywhere else. With our guru’s grace we crafted them mixing selective, creative exercises with the ancient yogic practices. The aim is not just to relax a person, the aim is to reflect to a person how infinite he or she is planting a seed of oneness in the person and equipping them with ways of watering that seed.”
Compounded, we want to give participants the same experience that staying four or five months in an Ashram would provide “State-of-One can only succeed in a proper environment so we are looking to partner with spas and bring the service to their guests” explains Wissam. “We aim to create a ‘win, win’ situation for spas, where we add more value to them.” State-of-One was met with much enthusiasm at the
Professional Spa and Wellness Convention Dubai in February and at the 10th World Health and Tourism Congress in Dubai last year, where State-of-One was launched. Many hoteliers and spa directors pledged support and indicated that they believed a concept such as State-of-One to be the “future of wellness”.
The aim is not to just relax, the aim is to reflect to a person just how infinite he or she is, how wonderful they are and how important they are “We were so surprised and pleased by the level of interest and support of our project, said Laura. “We learned from sessions at the PSWC that from the number of people booked in a hotel, only a small percentage visited the spa. We aim to bring the two together,” says Laura. “We want this message and energy to reach the entire property, agrees Wissam. “When State-of-One is incorporated into a facility it will reach beyond those walls and create a true, whole, wellness experience, touching every aspect of the property.” A true state of one.
What to expect from State-of-One: • A blend of creative and yogic exercises encompassing breathing, relaxation and meditation • Laura and Wissam will analyse your spa’s menu and customise their sessions to suit the spa’s facilities, location and clientele • Sessions can range from two hours, up to a seven-day retreat • Both group and individual sessions can be offered
Contacts To learn more about State-of-One visit www.stateof-one.com or call +971 5 5852 83 77
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
inspiring today’s hairdresser
Essential Styling
Fresh looks for the season
Step into spring Brush up on blow-drying techniques
Note from the Editor As well as the ever popular cut and colour services you offer your clients, there’s a plethora of additional treatments and services you can promote to excite your customers and encourage them to come into the salon. Braids, ponytails, blow-dries and updos – they are all styles you can offer all your round. Creating a menu for a braid bar, a ponytail service or the choice of styles in a blow-dry bar, ensures you are offering your clients an opportunity in between their regular appointments, something new for special occasions. Beautiful blow-dries, expert advice and professional product recommendations will stand you head and shoulders above your competition, elevating you and your team to experts in your field. Who wouldn’t want to pay for that? Thanks. Ruth
Hair: Tyler Johnston and Richard Ashforth for Schwarzkopf Professional Colour: Lesley Jennison and Julie Alvarez Make-up: Gudren Mueller assisted by Chiho Schwarzer Styling: Lucy Manning assisted by Helen Searle Photograph: Karine Welter and Olive Rust
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FASHION
Schwarzkopf Professional reveals its latest Essential Looks collection for spring/summer
ESSENTIAL 50
april 2016
STYLING april 2016
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Hair: Tyler Johnston and Richard Ashforth for Schwarzkopf Professional Colour: Lesley Jennison and Julie Alvarez Make-up: Gudren Mueller assisted by Chiho Schwarzer Styling: Lucy Manning assisted by Helen Searle Photographs: Karine Welter and Olive Rust
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Contrary to most popular skin care regimen, Heaven seeks not to add more oil, but more moisture, which plumps out skin cells, making the complexion more lustrous and youthful. Heaven’s unique skin care approach has now been proven many times over to help skin conditions such as Psoriasis, Eczema, Acne, Oily and Blemished skin. BECOME PART OF A NATURAL BEAUTY REVOLUTION & LET YOUR BUSINESS DELIVER REAL RESULTS. THE NUMBER 1 NATURAL SKINCARE RANGE WITH BEE VENOM. WITH HEAVEN, YOU CAN REALISE YOUR CLIENTS DEMANDS, NATURALLY, HEALTHILY & HAPPILY RADIATING BEAUTY.
Training available in all Heaven Treatments and London Lash & Brow by Heaven. Visit our TRADE page and find out if there is anyone in your area or contact: E | lindsay.robinson@heavenskincare.com T | + 971 4 278 5145
“Made to Create stands for playful creativity, the artistry of hairstyling and authentic looks. The current creative landscape is fresh, playful and experimental. We are inspired and driven by more than just trends and technologies; we wanted to celebrate hair stylists as the artists they are. We are stylists’ creativity in the spotlight and have developed looks that fuse together loud colours and bold cuts, as well as more subtle looks that accentuate the wearer’s natural beauty.” Simon Ellis, international creative director
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get the look
Step
into
spring
Brush up on your blow-dry skills with these simple on-trend styles from KMS California
Lived in waves 1 Spray Freeshape Shaping Blow Dry through hair for a light texture. 2 Blow-dry hair using the hands to work into its natural shape. 3 Spray a small section with heat protection and clamp with an iron to flatten, feeding the section into the iron as if molding an S shape. 4 Repeat all over to achieve a lived-in look. 5 Finish with dry wax for extra texture and manipulate with the hands. 56
april 2016
Boho curls 1 Scrunch CurlUp Perfecting Lotion throughout the hair to enhance the curls. 2 Tip head upside down and gently diffuse-dry until 80% dry. 3 Then scrunch and work with it until its completely dry. 4 With the head upside down, apply a defrizz oil and scrunch through the hair. 5 Flip head over and mould hair into shape.
active manuka honey
kumerahou
hallo clay
manuka oil
kelp
totarol harakeke flax
A brand born out of Kerikeri, New Zealand New Zealand’s original Certified Natural skincare and beauty brand since 1987. Living Nature is a recognised global leader in natural innovation and cutting edge technology. Geographically isolated for more than 80 million years, New Zealand has developed a natural landscape unlike anywhere else on earth, with more than 80% indigenous native plants with remarkable bioactive properties. Living Nature’s active ingredients come from the most potent of these unique plants, sourced from forests, lands and seas.
Professional Skin Solutions from Mother Nature.
BDIHcertified – most rigorous global standards for naturalness. ESMA & Dubai Municipality certified
Exclusive distributor in the GCC T: +971 4 4516218 E: admin.ae@wellnessunited.com
www.wellnessunited.com
WELLNESS UNITED
More simple step by steps and videos on hji.co.uk
Hair: KMS international artistic team
Hidden Layers 1 Spray Freeshape Shaping Blow Dry through the hair for extra shaping and blow-dry using hands. 2 Gently manipulate the hair into its natural shape until its 80% dry. 3 Finish the blow-dry with a soft bristle brush to shape the hair. 4 Mist hands with fine hairspray and gently smooth over the hair’s surface to tame flyaways and add a light hold.
Bold Fringe 1 Apply Freeshape Hot Flex Crème throughout towel-dried hair for smoothing and shaping. 2 Take a medium-sized section of hair, wrap it around the thumb and gently rotate the dryer up and down the section until dry. 3 Pin and allow to cool. 4 Continue working around the head. 5 Once cool take the pins, tip the head upside down and run fingers through the hair. Mist with hairspray to seal. april 2016
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GCC
For your beauty, hair and spa business November 2014
For your beauty, hair and spa business
Getting noticed
How to wow potential employers
Scent of success
Aromatherapy to boost your business
GCC
GCC
Lights, camera, action! Creating a successful hair shoot
art attack
Top nails techs get creative in our nail art special
Read the latest issue online at www.professionalbeauty.ae To guarantee the print edition to your door each month, subscribe for just AED125 per year. A year subscription guarantees 10 printed issues + the buyers guide.
Professional Beauty GCC
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treatment news
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Restore and repair April’s new treatments will restore your clients’ vitality
The Elemis Biotec “Speed” Facial at The Village SensAsia spa The lowdown: Having worked closely with the British brand since opening its doors in 2004, SensAsia Urban Spa is celebrating Elemis’s Biotec technology in the Middle East with a new slant – the launch of The Speed Room. Taking over a dedicated space at SensAsia’s 12-year-old flagship spa at The Village, Jumeirah, The Speed Room has been introduced as the perfect environment for an express, 30-minute Biotec facial. Containing its own “intelligent chair”, specially-tailored lounge-style music, energising SensAsia signature scents and take-away ginger tea, The Speed Room is a “pop-in” option for the time-pressed ladies of Dubai. Biotec uses a bespoke mix of microcurrents, ultrasonic and galvanic technology, oxygen infusion, light therapy and powerful hands-on techniques to target a multitude of skin complaints. SensAsia say that the Biotec facials are the most results-driven facial programme it has launched to date. PB says: Senior therapist Margie cleanses my skin before performing a consultation. Due to my uneven skin tone, we opt for the Elemis Biotec Skin Resurfacer (several Biotec facials are available according to the client’s needs). Margie uses the Pro-Collagen Cleanser followed by the Tri-Enzyme Facial Wash and the Toner with Lavender to balance the skin and minimise pores. Then it’s on to the first machine element – the UltraSonic Peeler, which exfoliates the skin and tackles impurities.
The probe feels a bit like a comb being run over my skin and the sensation is surprisingly calming. After toning again, the re-surfacing activator is applied. This contains hyaluronic acid and stimulates and plumps the skin. The Tri-Enzyme mask gel is applied to smooth and resurface my skin and the Light Therapy probe is then used to help the mask penetrate further into my skin. The active ingredients in the mask cause my skin to tingle slightly but this feels stimulating rather than uncomfortable. Both red light therapy (to promote collagen and elastin) and blue light (for an antiseptic, soothing and calming effect) are employed. Again, the sensation is soothing and pleasant. The mask is removed with sandalwood infused mitts and Pro-Collagen Advanced Eye Treatment, Resurfacing Activator and Pro-Collagen Marine Cream are applied, followed by Liquid Layer sun protection with an SPF 30 to finish the facial. The whole experience was relaxing but my skin feels stimulated and refreshed. The treatment may be short – but the results are dramatic. My skin appears smoother and clearer immediately and I am delighted by the results! In the evening, when I wash my skin, I am struck by how smooth my face feels! A few days later and my skin has kept its new radiance. SensAsia recommends a top up facial every 21 days to maintain results, or weekly treatments for six weeks for those who want a dramatic difference. Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
treatment news
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Goldwell Hair Repair Treatment at Orchid Beauty Boutique, Sharjah Ladies Club The lowdown: The Orchid Beauty Boutique has built up a loyal and ever-increasing customer base courtesy of its commitment to using high quality products, delivering excellent customer service and catering to the beauty needs of women in an inviting and welcoming space. Its fresh, clean and bright salon features dedicated areas or rooms for hair, nails, make-up and waxing; there’s even a tea bar that serves beverages and delicious cupcakes. The salon also features a VIP room, where guests can treat themselves to a private pampering – it’s a perfect space for brides-to-be or for those clients that simply prefer a quieter beauty experience. PB says: Following a warm greeting from the reception team, I’m ushered into the VIP room. Featuring styling stations, a wash basin and a cosy two-seater and coffee table, it’s a delightfully warm and relaxed space. My therapist enters the room and engages me in an easy discussion about my hair – asking a series of key questions about my hair care routine and any treatments I may have had. After looking at my hair, she determines that it could do with some revitalising, particularly at the ends where it is looking and feeling a bit dry. She selects Goldwell’s Rich Repair Treatment featuring IntraLipid Complex, which she applies after my hair has been thoroughly washed. Once the mask is on, my hair is covered by a steamer that emits heat for approximately 15 minutes, followed by a minute-long blast of cool air.
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
The use of hot and cold air enables my hair cuticles to open and absorb the mask and then close, while the mask itself helps to replace and balance the lipid levels of my hair therefore repairing and restoring the condition of my cuticles. The mask is washed out of my hair, which is then blow dried, and the finished look is revealed as soft, smooth and shiny hair – an impressive turnaround in a relatively short space of time. Tested by Zoe Moleshead
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treatment news
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Timeless Iris Root Facial at the Iridium Spa, St. Regis Dubai The lowdown: One of the Spa’s Signature Facials, it has been created by Swiss Perfection whose products are based on Cellular Active Irisa®, a compound extracted from the Iris Germanica root. Cellular Active Irisa® is high in proteins and enzymes and offers regenerative, stimulative and revitalising effects to the skin. PB says: My treatment begins with a consultation with my therapist who asks me a series of questions to help her understand my skin; she then provides an overview of the treatment process. The initial steps include several cleansing processes, firstly with an oil-based cleanser and an eye make-up remover. Following this a cream cleanser – a deep cleansing emulsion – is applied and finally a gel-based cleanser. With my skin now refreshingly clean, a gentle scrub is applied to stimulate my skin and remove any lingering or deeper set impurities. A machine emitting a microcurrent is then used to prepare my skin for the next stage and to allow for a deeper penetration of the subsequent products. The process is remarkably quick and not at all painful, the sensation is more
like a tweezing of a hair. In between many of the treatment steps my skin is refreshed with a gentle hydrating mist. The remaining stages see my face and décolleté covered in vitalising mask, and later individualised creams are applied around my eyes and to my face and décolleté. A serum designed to brighten and smooth the skin is also applied, as well as a lightening screen to protect against sun damage and fight against free radicals. Throughout my facial I am also treated to several massages, some to help the products penetrate my skin more effectively and to stimulate and awaken my skin cells and tissues, or, as with the head massage, simply to relax. Immediately following the treatment my skin is noticeably brighter and more luminous, while the following day my skin, particularly around my jawline, feels smoother, firmer and more evenly toned. For me the experience was rewarding and refreshing, the combination of high quality products and a skilled therapist providing a facial with a difference. Tested by Zoe Moleshead
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
product news
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Beauty Boosters Enhance April’s retail sales with this eclectic array of new products
Eideal Developed using nano-titanium and nanosilver, Curl Guru ensures that curls last for hours. A super-smooth ceramic barrel allows for easy curling, while infra-red heat emissions seal the cuticle, reducing frizz and preserving moisture. The bristles are ionised further helping to reduce static and increase shine. Call +971 56 455 23 69
Ingrown Hair Serum A powerful dual-action formula, containing pineapple and papaya fruit enzymes blended with a hydroxy acid derivative, this serum helps to exfoliate the skin freeing trapped, ingrowing hairs. With antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, the serum can be used on both the face and body. Call +971 5 04 09 38 37
Qms The brand’s Moisturizing Balance cream was developed for dry and stressed skin and has the special benefit of DNA protection. The product contains Resveratrol to help prevent cell damage caused by free radicals and Matrixyl, which stimulates collagen synthesis and skin repair while reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Meanwhile Ectoine protects the skin during the night as the skin regenerates. The product can be applied both night and day and promises to leave skin smooth, healthy and full of vitality. Call + 971 4 379 19 66
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
Grab the Introductory Offers!
. PERRON RIGOT HAS BEEN THE LEADING WAX EXPERT FOR OVER 70 YEARS. Make an appointment today for product demonstration with your CirĂŠpil by Perron Rigot professional and get prepared to help your salon turn waxing into a very lucrative activity. Contact Espai Beauty on +971 50 527 2397 / +971 4 34 14820 or info@espaibeauty.ae
product news
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L’OrÊal Pro Fiber is designed for women with damaged hair. Combining unique active ingredients to penetrate hair and lock in repairing actives for visibly lasting results, hair fibres are renewed from root to tip after use. The core element of the range is the APTYL 100 molecular complex, which locks in molecules within the hair fibre, resulting in long-lasting and effective results. Treatments can be customised to tackle different levels of hair damage. Email: consumercare@loreal.com
Eva Garden A range of new make-up products have been released by this brand, including two Smokeye Addicted eyeshadow palettes, each featuring four colours in elegant and functional shades including blacks and browns. There is also moisturising and protective Rebel Mat Lipsticks in Wild Rose and Deep Claret and Superlast Eye and Lip Pencils, which provide long-lasting, precision finishes. The final new release is an anti-ageing eye primer that offers a translucent finish that smoothes and perfects the skin tone around the eye. Call +971 4 328 46 04
Jane Iredale Lightly citrus-scented tinted formulation Tantasia imparts a light, fresh glow to the complexion along with instant bronzing. The product develops gradually for an even, customised, natural-looking tan without any toxic chemicals or preservatives and the sensitivity-tested formula makes it ideal for use on face and body. Call +971 55 954 23 92
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
product news
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Alterna Haircare The Caviar Moisture Intense range is designed to transform very dry hair and is comprised of the Anti-Aging Moisture Intense Oil Crème PreShampoo Treatment, Anti-Aging Moisture Intense Oil Crème Shampoo and Anti-Aging Moisture Intense Oil Crème Deep Conditioner. Collectively the range is designed to moisturise and revitalise dehydrated hair leaving it smooth, silky and shiny. The range is formulated using Abyssinian oil. Call +971 4 220 60 24
Kérastase New range Fusio Dose consists of four concentrates and five boosters in perfectly adjusted dosages. Consisting of high performing ingredients in their purest and most concentrated form, they are fast-acting on the hair fibre. The four concentrates include Concentré Oléo-Fusion for instant nutrition and softness; Concentré Pixelist for radiance; Concentré Vita-Ciment to repair and transform, and Concentré Densifique to make hair stronger and more supple. Boosters include Booster Brilliance for incredible radiance; Booster Densité for immense body; Booster Reconstruction to plump and strengthen hair; Booster Nutrition to nourish hair and Booster Discipline to make the hair fibre manageable. Email consumercare@loreal.com
EcoTowels These fully bio- degradable towels are 100 per cent natural and derived from a blend of cotton and wood pulp, along with other plant fibres such as bamboo. No plastics, glues, chemicals or bonding agents used are in the manufacture of these towels, which are designed for individual, one-time use in salon and spas. Developed by beauty professionals based in the UK, EcoTowels save on costs, time and storage while aiming to save the planet. Call +971 4 422 57 22
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
classified
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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
distributor
For classified
Call: 04-3756654 or email: maricel@professionalbeauty.ae
Burj Khalifa Area, Business Bay, Prism Tower, Office 1306, PO Box 33100, Dubai UAE Tel : 971-4-4387747 Email: info@connectionzone-me.com
training
The Healing Zone Academy Experts in Semi Permanent makeup. I - RISE TOWER,G-18 , TECOM ,DUBAI ,UAE Tel: 04 427 9040 Email: info@oliyahjoseph.com www.oliyahjoseph.com
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
Beauty and Therapy Training Academy
Office 2214, Building No 2 Gold & Diamond Park,Dubai, UAE Tel: 04 3887552 Email: info@thehealingzone.net
professionalbeauty.ae
Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
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distributor
Professional Beauty GCC April 2016
diary dates
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Diary dates 1-2 May The Makeup Show NYC Metropolitan Pavilion, New York, USA Now in its 11th year, this event is dedicated to make-up professionals who are looking to discover the latest products and tools, and to participate in hands on workshops, seminars and forums covering everything from business skills to creative flair. www.themakeupshow.com/nyc/
10-12 May FCE Cosmetique Transamerica Expo Center, Sao Paulo, Brazil Perfect for businesses in the spa, beauty and wellness sectors, this exhibition will focus on the cosmetic sector, the exhibition provides visitors with an insight into products, solutions and innovations in the development and production of cosmetics. www.fcecosmetique.com.br
7-10 May International Beauty Expo Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC), Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Catering to beauty, hair, cosmetics, nail and spa professionals, this show offers exhibitors and visitors access to the latest tools, equipment, products, services and brands, alongside a multitude of networking opportunities. www.ibe.my
15-17 May Beautyworld Middle East Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, Dubai, UAE This show covers beauty, hair, fragrances and wellbeing with exhibitors showcasing products across these core sectors. Nail and hair competitions will also take place during the event. www.beautyworldme.com
20-22 May Beauty Connect Myanmar Rose Garden Hotel, Myanmar / Burma Debuting this year, the show has been created in response to the growing beauty demands of local women, and is geared towards the cosmetics, beauty, hair and spa sectors. Alongside product and equipment suppliers, manufacturers and raw materials suppliers will also be exhibiting. www.beautyconnectasia.com 26-28 May BeautyExpo Uzbekistan Palace of Youth Creativity, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Comprised of three elements: BeautyExpo, SalonExpo and FitnessExpo, exhibitors showcasing products relevant to these sectors will be supported by a series of masterclasses and shows for hair and nails. www.expoposition.com
Don’t Miss... 18-20 May China Beauty Expo Shanghai New International Exhibition Center, Shanghai, China With increasing visitor numbers and exhibition space, this event enters its 21st year stronger than ever. Designed to bridge the gap between suppliers, manufacturers and distributors, it offers those in the cosmetics, beauty and wellness industry access to new products and services. www.chinabeautyexpo.com/en
SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ăš news@professionalbeauty.ae
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WELLNESS FOR
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