December 2016
For your beauty, hair and spa business
GCC
Golden Rules
Boosting seasonal sales over the festive month
Vital-min A Dr Des Fernandes talks Vitamin A deficiency
NEW!
Aesthetic Medicine supplement
FutureForecast Experts predict the trends set to shape 2017
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4 Published by and (C) 2016 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC News editor: Emma Baron emma@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Maria Dowling Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53 Marketing Manager: Emma Baron emma@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design & production: Image Creative Design www.icd.gb.com Printing: Masar Printing and Publishing, Dubai-UAE - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com
in this issue... 23
Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.
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News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty
20 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 31
Ask the experts Advice on recruitment, introducing wellness into your practice and make up services
67 Product news Pick of the best gel polishes on the market 71
Cover image: Shutterstock
Hairdressers Journal 80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training
48 Hair trends Cut, colour and hairstyles set to impact 2017
Features 62 The botox pout Tips and tricks of using botulinum toxin in the lips 67 Stand out in the silly season Maria Dowling gives her top tips on maximising marketing over the festive period
Aesthetic Medicine Supplement 62 The botox pout Tips and tricks of using botulinum toxin in the lips
Treatment news We share our experiences of new and innovative treatments, plus their business benefits
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welcome
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W
e are very excited to end the final edition of the year with the launch of our brand new Aesthetic Medicine supplement. It contains a host of interesting articles including an exclusive interview with Dr Des Fernandes, founder of Environ skincare, on the worrying effects of vitamin A deficiency. Turn to page 57 to learn more. Elsewhere in this issue, as we approach the festive season, we talk to key industry experts on their golden rules for boosting sales and tips on how to maximise retail revenue. Turn to page 41, where we also highlight the best of this season’s products and gifts sets, a perfect edition to your festive displays. 2016 was the year of the perfect brow; lash extensions, contouring and wellness. We ask top experts in hair, spa, beauty and nails what they believe is going to be big in 2017. Turn to page 23 and read up on the trends set to impact your spa or salon business in the year to come. On behalf of the Professional Beauty team, I want to thank you for your on going support and I look forward to welcoming you to our exhibition Professional Beauty GCC 2017 on February 6 & 7 at The Meydan Racecourse. Find out more about this exciting event in our next issue and don’t forget to register for your FREE ticket at www.professionalbeauty.ae We wish you happy holidays and look forward to continuing to bring you the tools you need for your business in 2017!
NEWS EDITOR – Emma Baron
41 On the cover 23 2017 predictions Hair, beauty, spa and nail experts give their 2017 predictions 41
Festive focus Golden rules for boosting sales and retail gifts
38 Global agenda 2017 World Spa and Wellness agenda announced
48 31
59
59 Vital-min A Dr Des Fernandes talks vitamin A deficiency
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NEWS
All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa
mariadowling scoops best salon award
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he mariadowling salon has added yet another accolade to to its increasing collection of crowns, winning Best Salon at the What’s On Awards 2016. Voted for by the public, mariadowling salon was up against some of the best salons in the business, all vying for this prestigious award, which could be voted
for either online or at the salon. The mariadowling team members collected their award in front of hundreds of VIPs from the hospitality, beauty and service industries at the ceremony in Dubai Media City. “We are so excited to be a What’s On Award winner this year, it’s proof of how hard the team is all working
to make sure we’re the very best at what we do,” said Maria Dowling, creative director at mariadowling. “Mariadowling salon has always been renowned for superb hairdressing, colouring and customer service, and by receiving this award we’ve shown that we’re always improving and striving for more!”
Zeytoun and Iskandar to headline at Professional Beauty & Salon Middle East 2017
World Spa & Wellness programme announced The exciting programme for the 2017 World Spa & Wellness convention in Dubai has been revealed. Previously known as the Professional Spa & Wellness Dubai, the convention will take place as part of the Professional Beauty GCC trade show on 6 and 7 February 2017. Hot topics on the agenda will include, fitness, leadership, stress management and hotel ownership. Speakers at the rebranded convention will be drawn from around the world and include some of the most senior names in the sector. Among those chairing at the convention is keynote speaker Baptist
de Pape, author of acclaimed Power of the Heart, who will share insights and pearls of wisdom from renowned teachers such as; Deepak Chopra, Paulo Coelho, Eckhart Tolle, Neale Donald Walsh and Maya Angelou. Also new to 2017 are the Creative Networking Sessions taking place in the afternoons of both days of the event. The sessions will see four leading industry names each host a session on a different topic, with delegates able to pre-book a place at the session of their choice. Turn to page 39 for more information on the conference programme and how to secure your space.
Renowned hair and beauty experts, Michel Zeytoun and Colette Iskandar have confirmed their appearance at Professional Beauty and Salon Middle East taking place at The Meydan Racecourse, Dubai on 6 & 7 February 2017. As part of the launch of Salon Middle East, Zeytoun and Iskandar will be taking to the stage to demonstrate their latest hair and make-up innovations in front of our Professional Beauty attendees at the show.
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Spa Connectors launch training centre
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ali-based spa consultancy Spa Connectors has opened a training centre, partnering with Jamu Traditions, also based on the island. The spa consultancy has entered into a management agreement with Jamu Traditions, which includes the Jamu Spa School. The school was established in 1988 and was the first such facility to open on the island. Spa Connectors was established earlier this year by Kathryn Moore, whose past industry experience includes group director of spa, Asia for Mspa International. Spa Connectors said in a
statement that the partnership with Jamu was formed in response to the business “being flooded with requests for spa staff from around the globe”. Spa Connectors’s managing director Kathryn Moore said: “The Jamu training team is among the most qualified in Bali with many years of hands-on experience.” Courses offered by the Jamu Spa School include massage, maternity, beauty and health and wellness treatment courses, among others. The school also offers a number of other courses, including CIBTAC certificates, diploma courses and package courses.
Haechler leaves Dubai Shangri-La for new appointment
LivNordic Spa & Wellness launch organic skincare The natural range has been created in Sweden and perfectly reflects LivNordic’s environmental sustainability ethos. The ingredients employed in the range have been collected in the forests of Swedish Lapland and include golden cloudberries, red lingonberries and antioxidant rich blueberries. c/o Gerd was pioneered by Swedish siblings and the name is inspired by their mother - Gerd - and her love of nature.
Bernhard Haechler, formerly vice president and general manager of the Shangri-La Hotel, Dubai, has been appointed general manager at the Shangri-La’s Le Toussrok Resort & Spa in Mauritius. Haechler, who has more than twenty years’ experience within Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts, commented: “I am thrilled to be joining the talented team at Shangri-La’s Le Touessrok Resort & Spa. “I have always appreciated Le Touessrok for its long-standing reputation as one of the world’s most dynamic and personalised resorts, and have watched with admiration over the last eighteen months as Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts worked to develop the property to its full potential.”
Carolina Moquist, spa director at LivNordic Spa, which is based in Dubai said: “Being Swedish, the scent of the c/o Gerd products takes me right back to my childhood, picking berries in the forest with my grandparents during summer. The products are nourishing and completely organic, and highly effective too!” The LivNordic Spa menu is centered around treatments based on the typical Scandinavian healthy lifestyle, which is closely tied to a connectivity with nature.
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Ispa names 2017 board
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he International Spa Association (Ispa) has announced its new board for 2017, including new appointments. Todd Shaw, spa director at The Peaks Resort & Spa, remains Ispa chairman. Todd Hewitt, corporate director, spa health clubs and recreation at Shangrila Hotels and Resorts, also stays in his post as vice chairman. New appointments to the board include Patrick Huey (pictured), corporate spa director at Sandals Resort International; Robert Vance, managing director of the Well & Being Spa at The Fairmont Scottsdale Princess; and
Joshua Lucklow, executive director of health and healing, Canyon Ranch Health Resorts. Also new to the board is Scott Duncan, president and partner of California-based day spa group Spa Gregories. Existing board members remaining in their post include Noel Asmar, president and chief executive of the eponymous spa workwear brand, and Blake Feeney, vice president of business development for skincare brand Chaleur Beauty. Ispa president Lynne McNees said: “We are grateful for the dedication
of those that step up each year and apply to serve their association. We are overwhelmed by the volume of exceptional members that apply each year and it’s always a difficult process to narrow down the candidates.” The new board will meet in January.
Aromatherapy Associates reveals panel of wellness experts The aromatherapy brand, partnered by The Product House in the Middle East, has assembled a team of wellness experts to help enforce and develop its presence in the wellness industry. The panel was unveiled at a morning event in London on November 21, where each spoke about their area of expertise, personal approach to wellness and connection to an Aromatherapy Associates oil blend. Initially the wellness experts will share their coaching via the brand’s social media channels, with top tips in areas such as cooking, mindfulness and exercise. On hand to help those associated with the brand – whether client, salon/ spa staff or retail consumer – find “clarity and purpose” are:
Jonathan Ward, a somatic coach who teaches students to lead life with their heart; Karuna Wiese, who focuses on the realisation of human potential and implementing positive changes in life; Nicola Addison, the team’s exercise and physical fitness guru for both body and mind; Janet Taras, who helps people increase their confidence by having courageous conversations and learning to communicate
effectively; Julie Whitehead, a laughter yoga teacher who aims to help people live the best life they can; and Yvonne Wake, a health nutritionist who focuses on wellness principles to help people take care of themselves and feel uplifted. Ward and Wiese are aligned with the Inner Strength Blend, Addison with De Stress, Taras with Support, Whitehead with Relax and Wake with Revive. The idea is that the chosen blend helps elevate each expert’s wellness teachings in line with the brand’s offer.
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Dubai’s Pearl Spa wins world award
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he Pearl Spa at the Four Seasons Resort Dubai was among the winners of Spafinder Wellness’s 2016 Wellness Travel Awards. The winners were announced in an awards ceremony at the World Travel Market in London in November. In total, the awards honoured hotels, resorts, destination spas and wellness retreats across 20 categories.
The winners were whittled down by an international panel of 39 travel and wellness industry editors and experts, from an original line-up of 388 finalists in the first round of voting. The second round of voting saw more than 130,000 consumers cast their votes, nearly twice as many as in the 2015 awards. Awards categories included 41 Country and Region Awards, as well
as awards across a wide range of categories. The Pearl Spa at the Four Seasons Resort at Jumeirah Beach, won Best in the Middle East in the Region Awards. Spafinder chief executive John Bevan said: “The growth in wellness travel and the vast range of healthy travel options offered by these exceptional properties is remarkable.”
Kerstin Florian names Julie Andrews new president Julie Andrews has been named president of skincare brand Kerstin Florian with immediate effect. Andrews (picture) joined Kerstin Florian, partnered by The Product House in the Middle East, 15 years ago and has held a number of different roles within the company in that time. Andrew’s past roles with the brand include director of marketing and public relations, and director of global business development. Her responsibilities over the years have included overseeing eleven global Kerstin Florian distribution partners, international tradeshows and advertising, and public relations for the US market.
Andrews previously also looked after the Kerstin Florian corporate sales programme and lifestyle retreats. The brand’s founder and chief executive Kerstin Florian said: “Julie is the best person to lead the next phase of our
brand. She has great instinct, knowledge and strong insight into our products, philosophy and lifestyle and she has been a key member of our team and family for many years.” Kerstin Florian’s is popular in many Middle Eastern spas. Plans for 2017 include the launch of an organic skincare line and “a small range of active skincare”. Andrews said of her new role: “I am dedicated to the brand and honoured to continue the legacy created by Kerstin and Charlene. “I am looking to continue to expand our work with the best spa partners and create new and innovative products that promote wellness for skin and body.”
EIDEAL partners with Davines in the Middle East EIDEAL has joined forces with innovative Italian haircare brand Davines to spread its message of sustainable products with first class results in the region. Davines, previously distributed by Healthcare LLC in the UAE, is the brainchild of the Bollati family and has been growing to become a market favourite in 95 countries since its conception in Italy in 1983. The Davines mission is to inspire and improve the work life quality of worldwide beauty professionals through concepts, products and services that will allow
them to offer unique experiences to their clients. The brand’s reputation has grown with acclaimed creative director, and regular editorial and Fashion Season favourite, Angelo Seminara at the helm. The brand will be available in selected salons, via distributor EIDEAL from this month. “With a main focus on sustainability, Davines is a brand that an enlightened and aware consumer loves” said Haysam Eid, managing director
of EIDEAL. “Salons are now also becoming more and more planetfriendly and taking conscious decisions to switch to sustainable products that at the same satisfy their clients’ needs and allow them to deliver great results.”
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LUXURY SPA PRODUCTS for HANDS, FEET AND BODY
UNIQUE& IRRESISTIBLE EXPERIENCE THE
SCENT
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE CUCCIO BRAND CONTACT: MARIE MOULDS EMAIL: info@cucciome.com TEL: +971 50 409 3837
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INDUSTRY NEWS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE Lux South Ari Atoll reopens after extensive revamp
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he five-star hotel has undergone one of the biggest renovations ever taken in the Maldives and now features a chic, beach house-style, contemporary vibe. The redesigned resort comprises 193 pavilions and villas, including 46 romantic pool villas with their own seven metre pools, and three temptation pool water villas with private 14 metre pools. Facilities at Lux South Ari Atoll include
the Lux Me spa and wellness offering, incorporating a Chinese teahouse, a treatment area and a relaxation zone with lagoon views. The spa also offers a unique, signature 10-hands massage. In addition, there is also a Zen wellness pavilion offering activities including yoga, Pilates, meditation, qigong and tai chi, coordinated by a wellness concierge.
Skin ageing top concern for Brits In a new survey, 63 per cent of Brits admitted that they worry about their faces ageing – and many said they’d tried anti-ageing remedies in a bid to tackle this. To coincide with the launch of its Eye Bags and Dark Circles product, skincare brand Remescar questioned 2,198 Brits aged over 18 on their anti-ageing regimes. The majority of respondents said they had tried anti-ageing products (51 per cent), with 40 per cent revealing that they placed teabags over their eyes in a bid to reduce dark circles. Meanwhile, 33 per cent believed that strict skincare habits like daily exfoliation and moisturising were key to worryfree skin, and 11 per cent thought that applying extra-virgin olive oil to the skin would beat signs of ageing. Brits seemed less inclined to opt for more invasive anti-ageing treatments. Just five per cent of those surveyed said they’d opted for Botox and only six per cent had tried a chemical peel to help them achieve fresher, youngerlooking skin.
Half of US female consumers check product labels New findings by independent, natural and organic brand Kari Gran show that 50 per cent of women now check product ingredients lists in an effort to avoid certain chemicals. The US brand conducted a study of American female beauty consumers to find out their attitudes and purchase behaviours towards “green beauty”. The key findings showed that sulfates and parabens were the top two ingredients women seek to avoid. Fifty-seven per cent of women said it was most important that their skincare products were all natural,
followed by 51 per cent saying they were concerned about what was in their hair products. Women appeared less bothered by chemicals in nail products with just 36 per cent citing that it was important that their nail polish and nail care products were all natural. Interestingly, 35 per cent said it is likely that they would spend more money on natural products, than they currently do, in the next two years. PB
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A DATE FOR YOUR FEBRUARY DIARY Exclusively for your beauty, hair and spa business the must attend event for your profession
Save AED 100, register now at www.professionalbeauty.ae/register Quote promo code: B2
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20 The month in numbers
CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
78 77
%
Insider beauty, hair and nails Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
OCTOBER 2016
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2016 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2015?
60 40 0
% BETTER
% SAME
In a fiercely competitive market, securing customer loyalty is essential and, encouragingly, 77 per cent of you say your clients are continuing to rebook. All round, treatment business is also better this year for just over half of you and occupancy rates are healthy at 68 per cent. When it comes to retail, the bulk of you subscribe to the “try before you buy” ethos and encourage your clients to test out product samples to help boost your sales. In other countries, patch testing is now compulsory for treatments that involve dye following a spate of serious allergic reactions in hair and beauty clients, resulting in legal actions against salons. Yet only 10 per cent of you offer patch testing for clients. Is it only a matter of time before the legislation hits the GCC? It’s something to watch out for…
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
68
%
Lead image: Shutterstock
%WORSE
On the spot WHAT IS YOUR TOP METHOD FOR BOOSTING RETAIL SALES? 1. Free samples 2. Product recommendations 3. Salon shopping events for customers 4. None of the above
HOW OFTEN DOES YOUR BUSINESS POST ON SOCIAL MEDIA? 1. Daily 2. Weekly 3. Monthly 4. Never
20
%
OFFER NEW YEAR DETOX TREATMENTS IN JANUARY
10%
PATCH TEST FOR TREATMENTS THAT INVOLVE DYES
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21 The month in numbers
CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
78
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2016 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2015?
Insider spa
80 20 0
% BETTER
% SAME
Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
Lead image: Shutterstock
%WORSE
OCTOBER 2016
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
68
%
WHAT IS YOUR TOP METHOD FOR BOOSTING RETAIL SALES? 1. Production recommendations 2. Free samples 3. Spa shopping events for customers 4. None of the above
When it comes to social media, you are fully aware of the importance of the medium the majority of spa owners revealing that they post daily or weekly on their business accounts. In terms of selling, many of you rely on product recommendations, post treatment, to sell retail products with only a handful of you disclosing that you host specific shopping or retail events to boost revenue. Although it is the traditional month for clients to cleanse their bodies after the festive excess, only 10 per cent of spa owners said they would offer detox treatments at their establishments in January.
5
%
PATCH TEST FOR TREATMENTS THAT INVOLVE DYES
On the spot HOW OFTEN DOES YOUR BUSINESS POST ON SOCIAL MEDIA? 1. Daily 2. Weekly 3. Monthly 4. Never
10%
OFFER NEW YEAR DETOX TREATMENTS IN JANUARY Professional Beauty GCC December 2016
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The year of… We ask four industry experts from the worlds of beauty, spa, nails and hair what shaped our industry in 2016 – and what lies ahead for 2017
BEAUTY
With over 5million Instagram followers Joelle Mardinian is an award winning make-up artist in the Middle East, with her own TV show, which has been running for over 12 years. Joelle also owns her own chain of beauty salons; Maison de Joelle with many branches throughout the Middle East. Joelle has recently opened her own aesthetic clinic Make Over show Clinica Joelle.
How long have you been in the beauty business? I started out very early in this business as I’ve always had a passion for make-up. My make-over has been on for almost 12 years while my chain of salons has almost been running for 10 years. As I mentioned, I was always intrigued by beauty and it was something close to my heart. I knew I wanted to do something for women in this region.
How do you gauge the latest beauty trends? Are these more regional trends or global? There are so many beauty trends that come and go. Some of them do last longer than others. I don’t think I have a particular measure as such. I believe in being stylish. Being fashionable and stylish are two different things. Stylish people can sense and put together two very opposite trends from different eras and still make it work.
What do you predict will be the top beauty trends for 2017? I am a believer of simplicity and I am so glad to see this look is coming back. For make-up it’s back to basics with pastel lips and smokey eyes. I believe the ’60s look will be big for 2017 too, the up dos and back combed hair, popular in that era, are returning.
How dynamic is the beauty industry in the Gulf region? The countries in the Gulf are usually the first to bring in the latest products in hair, skincare and make-up. We can find anything we want in the market, with great prices. Another thing I love about the beauty industry is there is something new every day. Gulf countries are always in the race to get the latest.
What was your favorite beauty product of 2016? Actually a product from my own range – Joelle Paris – has been hugely popular. It’s called Golden Girl and it’s a bronze body shimmer highlighter, which gives you an all over super-bronzed glossy tanned look – an essential in the sunny climate! The iridescent golden particles within the product illuminates the body’s skin with shiny shimmer reflections. It also contains vitamin E, an anti free radical vitamin that protects the skin cells from oxidation triglyceride oils which helps repairs the skins barrier.
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Neil Hewerdine is currently head of spa and wellness at the Waldorf Astoria Palm Jumeirah. He foresees a future for spa where tech and social media will play a huge part in terms of education and improving booking services and other guest options. Conversely, guests will seek to readdress balance caused by our frenetic lives with phone and IT detoxes.
What, do you believe shaped the industry 2016? This year the industry had a wakeup call and began to really recognise the need of wellness, rather than the want for it. We have become more a nation that understands that prevention is better than cure. We are living in a far more self-aware society and social media has played a huge part in this. The educational aspect is positive, however social media has also massively added to our pressure levels – the pressure we put ourselves under, the fast pace we are expected to live at to keep up to date. People are certainly living longer, yet we are more stressed than ever. Overall, people want to be in the best shape of their lives and are showing commitment to making that change which is a fantastic opportunity for our industry. We are learning that balance is required to maintain sanity in our fast paced lives.
What product developments do you predict for 2017? Accessible, flexible and targeted online learning. It is forever challenging to coordinate necessary training to maintain standards commercially and practically. The positive development of the socially accessible learning platforms certainly bridges the gap for the new generation and meets the overall demand for our industry.
What treatment developments do you predict for 2017? Certainly further development of instant, result-driven products. However, there will also be a strong focus on using organic and natural resources. In line with the new preventative attitude to life, this is a far more educated wellness audience we are dealing with – clients are quite the connoisseur, they know exactly what they feel they need and are sure of what they want. The way we talk to our clients has to change, we need to show them our knowledge and our value and we need strong leadership with experience to compete with our client’s knowledge.
What market changes do you anticipate in 2017? One of the many great things about the new generation is their “fresh eyes” approach, their ability to seeing things differently. Mental Awareness is talked about so much more than ever now, with royal and celebrity ambassadors leading the way. We may see a shift in how this could be integrated into the wellness industry; I am eager to see how this will affect us in the long term and how we can use this to our industry advantage.
Do you foresee any great changes in business practices for our industry in 2017? A stronger move towards online processes, from bookings to virtual “chat now to your wellness professional” options. People will always still want to have personal contact and this adds to the requirement for the need of options. The new wellness client wants answers, appointments and advice instantly and this must be met. On the other side of the scale, we are now fairly used to social media and living in an interactive world but the new generations are being dubbed as the “lonely generation”, due to lack of personal contact in their daily interactions. I believe we will start looking for balance, social and technical detoxes, no phones weekends! Elsewhere, a number of medical clinics are showing ever more interest in integrating a “softer” approach to their offering, incorporating a sense of wellbeing and capitalising on the “happy, feel good factor” that spa is renowned for. Clinics will look at relaxing patients ahead of any of their treatments, creating a less clinical feel. Innovation is a key contributor to our industry; the incremental and marketing value our business brings to the overall business in a hotel, for instance, is vast and extremely valuable. The industry will continue to welcome entrepreneurial innovation and support the need for consistent change. 2017 is set to bring ever more new, fresh opportunities and challenges for our industry – we need to be ready for these and be ready to invest in education and leadership for our business.
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Shabana Karim is the founder and owner of successful UAE chain The Nail Spa. She believes competition will be fierce in 2017 and that, consequently, service will need to be first class. Time-pressed women will be motivated by multitasking packages that offer simultaneous multiple treatments.
What, do you believe, was the most influential industry innovation in 2016? At The Nail Spa we launched a new type of long-lasting gel polish called Evo Gel in September. Evo Gel was the first gel to have an oxygenating base, meaning the nail is able to breathe through the polish. The benefits of this are that the client’s nail doesn’t get damaged as is seen in traditional gel polishes, and it is also prayer friendly. We found this to be extremely popular across the region as ladies on the go are wanting longer wearing polishes but are knowledgeable about product ingredients and care about the health of their nails. Anything that can enhance, beautify and not damage your nails was always going to be a great success!
What product developments do you predict for 2017? Continuing from 2016, I feel that 2017 is going to be about more revolutionary products that allow enhancements and extensions with a lot less damage than what is on the market right now. The trend for long nails is without a doubt going to continue so there will be a great demand for products that can sustain this. Of course, there will also be lots of fun nail art, which is exciting! This year (2016) was an interesting year where we saw everything from chrome to aquarium nails.
What treatment developments do you predict for 2017? We predict that in 2017 more and more women will be increasingly motivated to have treatments that give value for their time. Convenience will become even more important! In preparation for this we are launching a new section to our menu called the TNS Multitasker, where you can chose from a variety of bundled treatment packages that can be done at the one chair, simultaneously. We are also phasing out the drying station and introducing dryers at the pedicure chair to make getting their and pedis even more convenient and quick!
What market changes do you anticipate in 2017? Competition is fierce at the moment with new nail salons opening every month. In a bid to standout, there are a lot of establishments playing on gimmicks or aspects that aren’t related to nail services themselves. However, our customers are more knowledgeable than ever and want to understand more about the treatments and the products that we are using, rather than try gimmicks. I feel that there is going to be a big shift back to the basics of running nail salons – focusing on creating the perfect classic manicure as opposed to being able to do crazy chrome nails but not offering high-quality, basic services.
Do you foresee any great changes in business practice for our industry in 2017? As I said, quality is going to be key as opposed to just following the trends. A beauty trend that is more popular than ever is the “natural look”. This is interlinked to the fact that classic manicures will always be the base of a nail salons business. If you don’t ensure that your classic treatments are of the highest standard and you just focus on the latest craze, your clientele will notice. After so many years of successful business, we only recently launched our artbar, which focuses on nail art and new trends. We wanted to wait until we had the basics to the highest standard we could possibly achieve. Now, we feel that we are able to branch out and have some fun knowing our quality will remain at the highest level in all aspects of our business.
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HAIR
Ruksher Mailk is co-founder of the renowned Pastels Salon chain in the UAE. She anticipates a greater move towards more natural looking hair from clients who are knowledgeable and demand a complete, quality experience.
What, do you believe, was the most influential industry innovation in 2016? In my mind, there were two big talking points in the hair industry. Firstly, there was a real resurgence in natural beauty. One huge trend was nude or natural-looking hair. With nude hair, there’s a balance. There’s an even amount of both warm and cool tones, which cancel each other out to create a neutral colour, which is very flattering on all skin tones. There was also a return to roots, perfect for lowmaintenance ladies. This year, brunettes were “woodsy”, with shades ranging from chocolate to espresso, which works great with a colour gloss for added shine. In terms of highlights, microlights were big news. These are similar to balayage and ombre techniques, but more subtle shades of blonde are placed in the hair to create soft, natural looking pieces. Strobing, the popular make-up technique that highlights the face where the light would naturally hit, gained momentum in the hair industry too.
What product developments do you predict for 2017? I believe many consumers are now thinking not only about the steps they need to take to achieve their perfect hair colour, or to banish frizz, but also how to ensure hair is protected. In the past few years, we have seen brands such as KeraStraight offer smoothing treatments that are aldehyde-free and I believe this was one of the major
reasons many brands introduced sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, as well protector treatments.
What treatment developments do you predict for 2017? Treatments will become even healthier for the hair. Gone are the days when consumers will compromise the hair’s health only to find a remedy to the damage they have done later. Now it is all about prevention – having your dream hair but in a manner that sustains the hair’s health.
What market changes do you see for 2017? For the past few years, consumers have been mindful of the money they spend and so there was a surge in discounting and promotions to attract business. In many cases, consumers were driven to salons and spas that offered the treatments they wanted at the lowest price. Now I believe there has been a shift. Instead of considering purely the cost of a service or treatment, consumers are looking to visit salons and spas where the journey is enjoyable from start to finish. This means that salons need to consider all aspects of their business, not just their price list. They must offer a luxurious experience that starts and ends at the salon door.
Do you foresee any great changes in business practice for our industry in 2017? As the market continues to be fiercely competitive, salons are being forced to consider new ways to adjust their business practices so that they become more efficient and therefore more profitable. To do this successfully, I believe salon owners must become more business-savvy and so I think mentoring programmes will become more commonplace. Earlier this year, EIDEAL introduced the EIDEAL-Santi Leadership Programme to the UAE where renowned salon manager and industry expert Susie Santiago was enlisted to mentor salon owners and I was lucky enough to be chosen as one of the owners to join the inaugural programme. I think that mentoring programmes such as this will increase our understanding of our clients’ needs better, which will lead to a business that prospers immensely. Ultimately, this is what all salon owners strive to achieve. PB
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Ask the experts Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
What can I do to prevent my staff getting repetitive strain injury?
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herapists working in spas and salons have a tendency to suffer with repetitive strain injury, especially tension in the shoulder, back and neck areas. For massage therapists, the repetitive movements can also put unnecessary stress on the tendons and nerves in hands, wrists and arms. Poor posture during treatment is normally to blame, as well as spending too much time in one position, but a lack of adequate breaks can also cause injury. It’s important to make sure staff take regular breaks throughout the day and use breathing exercises to help release stress and increase oxygen intake. Therapists should also stretch regularly, to improve circulation and increase mobility, and change positions in treatment as much as possible. Remind therapists it’s OK to move the client during massage so that they don’t have to bend over as much. Switching up the rota so staff perform different treatments throughout the day can also help. Yoga is a great stretching and breathing exercise and a perfect start and end to the day.
One six-step seated exercise, spinal stretch, is particularly good for therapists suffering with tension and is easy to do: Step one: sit on a chair with feet parallel and flat on the floor. Allow the spine to lengthen. Step two: place your hands on your knees. Step three: inhale as you draw your shoulders back. Step four: lift your head and draw your chest forward and up, arching your back. Step five: exhale, before releasing your head down to your knees. Press your hands into your knees and round your back up toward the ceiling, drawing the abdominals in towards the spine. Step six: repeat the steps four or five times, then come back to a sitting position. Anna-Cari Gund is president and managing director of Cidesco International, the international beauty and spa therapy standards and qualifications body. Gund has nearly 30 years’ industry experience.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae
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I’m struggling with acrylic infills. How do I successfully fill in the regrowth?
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How can I retail more make-up during the festive period?
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hen it comes to retailing over the festive months, planning is key. You need to think about your stock and sales techniques way before the decorations go up so that once the festive season rolls around, you and your staff are prepared to shower clients with the knowledge they crave in the quest for their seasonal party looks. Give clients the opportunity to browse the make-up at their leisure, but always have someone on hand to offer advice and give tester products so customers can see what suits their skin type and style. You also need to identify your key client groups so you can plan the right events around the festive period. It’s best to create and tailor makeover packages for each group, identifying the products that are most popular for those within it, and keeping the offers as simple as possible. Hosting individual or group make-up lessons, redeemable against product purchases, is a great way to engage with clients and entice them to try new products and services. In-salon promotions, gifts with treatments and ideas for spontaneous or bundle purchases, such as “perfect base” or “perfect brow” packs, will also encourage customers to buy their make-up from you. Most importantly, don’t forget that beautiful promotional and point-of-sale material, alongside up-to-date press coverage and celebrity endorsements, goes a long way in enticing your clients to buy – for themselves or as a gift for somebody else. Nilam Holmes-Patel is co-founder and chief executive of High Definition Beauty, which supplies salons with brow, make-up and nail products and training.
he aim of an infill service is to make the nail look brand new again and this involves removing any lifting product, prepping the nail and applying new acrylic. First things first, never file directly over the lifted area as you may find that you make the lifting worse. You should file right next to the lifting, on the edge of product that is still attached, leaving natural nail prep until you’ve removed it. The product has lifted for a reason so you need to ensure the natural nail is perfectly prepped before reapplying product, otherwise you’ll just experience lifting again. Plus, it needs to be removed to make sure bacteria doesn’t get sealed in when fresh acrylic is applied. When moving on to application, a good-quality liquid and powder should reapply easily, colour-matching the existing product so no join can be seen. Also, if you keep product application thin at the cuticle, then infills are easier to do and less lifting will be present. After treatment, suggest clients use a good-quality cuticle oil daily to keep the natural nail hydrated and flexible, which helps prevent the product lifting. However, if you’re still struggling with infills, get in touch with your training provider who should be able to help you within a classroom or one-to-one environment.
Jan Soar is head of education at Nail Harmony UK, distributor of Gelish and All That Jazz, managing a team of more than 30 educators.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae
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How do I target my Facebook adverts to attract more clients?
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o help you find potential clients on Facebook, the first thing you need to do is define who your audience is. To try to appeal to everyone with your Facebook ad is an
single but has a steady boyfriend for the past two years, takes a two-week holiday in the summer and skis for a week in the winter. Jennifer lives within two miles of the
exercise in futility. You need to narrow down your focus. To help you do this you need to look at your current client database and ask these questions: • Do they mainly fall into a certain age category? • Do they live in a particular area? • Are they married? • Do they have children? • What is their income bracket? • Do they have hobbies in common? • What TV programmes do they like? Gathering this information will help you to make a “composite” person you can market to. This is your avatar client. A lot of people find it helpful to give their avatar client a name. When you go through this exercise you will end up with a clear picture of a person you can focus your marketing to. More importantly you can tailor your Facebook marketing message to this person. It makes the process of marketing a lot easier when you are crafting marketing messages to one person, rather than trying to market to a faceless group. If you find you have two separate and distinct groups of clients, then make up two avatars. For example, one salon that I work with identified that they have two different client groups, a younger one that demands tans and nails, and one older which prefer facials and relaxation treatments. For this salon this distinction is very important, and they now write totally different adverts for each group. Once you’ve identified your avatar client - and only then, can you focus your marketing messages to them, whether that’s on Facebook or via any other marketing medium. For example, here is the avatar client for a laser clinic I work with—let’s call this avatar ‘Jennifer’. Jennifer is 31,
laser clinic is active on Facebook, reads certain online blogs, works in an insurance company in an office building that’s local to the clinic, has a facial and her nails done once per month, and her favourite TV channel is National Geographic. Once you have identified the information for your avatar, Facebook advertising makes it really easy to laser focus your audience as you can choose those who see your ad by gender, age group, education level and interests, to name a few.
Bonus Facebook advertising tip: Have you ever heard the saying “Birds of a feather flock together?” We tend to hang out with people who are similar to ourselves. Similar age, income bracket and interests. Our clients do the same thing. So when you’re setting up your Facebook ads, make sure you select “Friends of people who like your page”. This has a lovely added bonus - when these people see a friend of theirs has already Liked your page, they are a lot more likely to pay attention to your post. So before you jump into advertising on Facebook, do a little homework first and identify your “Jennifer” and you are a lot more likely to be on target. PB Catherine Trebble is a UK based website and social media expert. Catherine will be speaking on the topic of social media at the Professional Beauty GCC’s Beauty Conference in February 2017. Professional Beauty GCC. Visit www.professionalbeauty.ae for more information.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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It’s time for the spa industry to come together The World Spa & Wellness Convention returns on 6-7 February 2017 to The Meydan Racecourse, Dubai To view the programme and to book your delegate pass visit www.professionalspawellness.com/dubaiconvention
With thanks to our sponsors:
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MEETING UP
We speak to Jean-Guy de Gabriac, founder of spa consultancy Tip Touch International and coordinator of the World Spa & Wellness Convention (formerly the Professional Spa & Wellness Convention), about what this year’s event will deliver What can we expect from the 2017 World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC)? The objective is to equip delegates with innovative approaches and methods to help them tackle and solve the issues they face in everyday operations. Sunday will focus on helping them grow as spa directors and owners, with real data, real case studies and real controversy, where appropriate. Monday will bring refreshing insight into how to shine as a leader.
Are there any new additions to this year’s programme? We want to bring something fresh every year and in 2017 we’re giving delegates the opportunity to book their seat at a table with a spa and wellness leader as part of the new Creative Networking Sessions. There will be a collective wrapping up of these sessions at the end of each day; so all participants can capture the insight from the different topics. Seats will be limited for each topic, so delegates are encouraged to book early.
their operations. They should also read up on the speakers and dare to ask them questions, whether during the Q&As at the end of panels, during the breakfast club or creative networking sessions or in the delegates’ lounge. Remember, it’s not just what or who you know, but also who knows you.
Is there anything on this year’s programme that you’re particularly excited about? Yes indeed, I very much look forward to hearing our keynote speaker this year on the topic “Manage your emotional intelligence with the Power of the Heart”. Baptist de Pape, author of the acclaimed Power of the Heart (best seller in Dubai) will share insights & pearls of wisdom from renowned teachers: Deepak Chopra, Paulo Coelho, Eckhart Tolle, Neale Donald Walsh, Maya Angelou… This will set many hearts on fire!! For more information visit www.professionalspawellness.com/dubaiconvention
Why is the WSWC a key industry event to attend? Year after year, the WSWC continues to challenge panellists to raise the bar. There is no place for big egos and each speaker is encouraged to wow their fellow panelists - one l and delegates so that everyone in the room learns and grows. Our vision is to deliver a funpacked convention that is rich in information and that is impactful and rewarding to attend.
What can delegates do to make sure they get the most out of the event? N Networking is an art that needs preparation. Delegates should be willing to discuss things among themselves, ask questions and share best practices that can elevate
The 2017 World Spa & Wellness Convention is taking place at the Meydan Racecourse on February 6 & 7. Tickets are AED 1,250/ USD $340 for a two day pass and AED 735 / USD $200 for a one day pass. For more information, and to register your interest visit: www.professionalspawellness.com/dubaiconvention
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39 MONDAY FEBRUARY 6
TUESDAY FEBRUARY 7
RISE AS A MANAGER
SHINE AS A LEADER
8:00 GREET THE DAY
8:00 GREET THE DAY
Yoga session
10:00 CHAIRMAN’S OPENING REMARKS
Thai Chi session
9:00 THE BREAKFAST CLUB
Mark Moloney, managing director and publisher, Professional Beauty/Professional Spa & Wellness
Exchanging best practices and methods that have worked for your business Dr. Sanjay Khanzode, member of council experts - International Spa Operations, Hyatt Spas Asia Pacific (Bali) Greg Payne, global spa director at Aman Resorts (Singapore) Vanessa Stoessel, director of wellness and spa Projects at MSpa International
10:05 ORIENTATION Jean-Guy de Gabriac, chief executive and founder, Tip Touch International
10:10 MANAGE YOUR RESOURCES & YOUR ENVIRONMENT Learn sustainable cash-saving & value-generating actions. Join a regional initiative to create a benchmark in sustainability. CHAIR: Fady Tawfik, head of operations, H2E2 Sunil Kanal, CTO and director at Magenta Maria Haggo, managing director, Heart & Soul at Al Barari
11:00 KEYNOTE SPEAKER: Manage your emotional intelligence with the power of the heart Baptist de Pape, author of acclaimed Power of the Heart
10:05 LEAD TOWARDS EXCELLENCE “One on one, heart to heart conversation to touch lives with a passion & dedication for the art of hospitality… elevated.” Andrew Gibson, vice president of spa and wellness, FRHI Hotels and Resorts Simon Casson, president at Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts
11:10
11:30 MANAGE THE STRESS OF YOUR GUESTS & YOUR TEAM Learn how to create stress management programs and wellness activities for your guests and your staff CHAIR: Chris Keifer, general manager at Dreamworks Spa and Zen Yoga Andrew Barge, director of leisure, Marriott Hotels Shabana Karim, owner/founder - House of Enspa
12:20 LUNCH AND NETWORKING BREAK 15:20 MANAGE YOUR GM/OWNERSHIP Develop a proactive mind-set to anticipate your GM’s or owner’s needs Paul Hawco, director of Talise Spa Operations at Jumeirah Group (Dubai) Dr Chase Weber, corporate spa manager, Constance Hotels (Mauritius) Beverley Spencer, spa director, Cleopatra Spa (Dubai)
16.10 CREATIVE NETWORKING SESSIONS Two meeting rooms, four topics and some of the most experienced operators in the industry • Neil Hewerdine, head of spa and wellness Waldorf Astoria Topic: Fill your white space with spa marketing and revenue management • Lindsay Madden-Nadeau, director of Spa Integration and Operations, FRHI Global TOPIC: Master the main KPI’s and leverage your performance • Cedric Betis, director of wellness, Jumeirah Group (Dubai) TOPIC: The added value of well-integrated sports, fitness and wellness activities in properties • Karen Golden, Belgravia Leisure (Australia) TOPIC: Help your team grow... or watch them grow
17.10
LEAD AND EMPOWER YOUR TEAM Guidelines for mastering strategic activities and helping your staff grow CHAIR: Niamh O Connell, group vice president, Rosewood Hotel Group (Hong Kong) Todd Hewitt, group spa director, Shangri-La (Beijing) Karen Golden, regional director, spa and wellness Belgravia Leisure (Australia) Bastien Gonzales, CEO and founder BGA Corp (Dubai)
12:10 15:10
LUNCH AND NETWORKING BREAK LEAD YOUR COMMUNITY How wellness values, activities and programmes are boosting real estate projects CHAIR: Anni Hood, chair global wellness tourism initiative of the Global Wellness Institute Damien Latham, CEO of the leisure and entertainment division of Majid Al Futtaim (Dubai)
16:00 CREATIVE NETWORKING SESSIONS • Vanessa Stoessel, director of wellness and spa projects, MSpa International TOPIC: Retail strategies that make a difference • Sharon Barcock, director of spa & fitness operations & development MEA at Hilton Worldwide TOPIC: Master the main KPIs and leverage your performance • Greg Payne, global spa director at Aman Resorts (Singapore) TOPIC: Help your team grow... or watch them go • Dr. Sanjay Khanzode, member of council of experts - international spa operations, Hyatt Spas Asia Pacific (Bali) TOPIC: Fill your white space with spa marketing tactics and revenue management
17:00 COFFEE BREAK AND TAKEAWAYS FROM THE CREATIVE NETWORKING SESSIONS
COFFEE BREAK AND TAKEAWAYS FROM THE CREATIVE NETWORKING SESSIONS
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‘Tis the season
Ensure you have the festive period all wrapped up with our three golden rules for boosting sales and our retail gifts special The festive season brings a massive opportunity for your business, in terms of boosting retail revenue and increasing loyalty by giving something back to your clients. We ask three experts – renowned for implementing innovative and successful sales strategies – for their golden rules for making the most of December.
Rule 1 – incentivise
The festive season is a highly critical sales period for spas, especially those who rely on local and residential clientele. While December is typically a “soft” month, we find that most activity is centered on the sales of gift cards or vouchers. Gift voucher sales can contribute 30 to 50 per cent of business and bookings from December 25, through to Q1. Therefore, it is imperative to have a strategic plan surrounding the maximisation of these sales. Successful initiatives could involve a team sales target set at levels that exceed the previous year, supported by a team incentive and reward. In addition, it is important to also provide an incentive for the clients. Offer home delivery of gifts (with a certain minimum spend) or additional spa credits and redeemable vouchers for those buying spas Rule 2 – personalise vouchers vouchers. For example, with every gift card Our annually-updated Christmas vouchers are a purchased, you could give the guest an unique selling point for SensAsia, and one that I hope makes additional gift voucher of 180AED. us stand out in the market. Clients are always giving us invaluable Paul Hawco, director of spa feedback on our promotions, and they love the anticipation of new operations, Jumeirah designs every year. We personalise the vouchers with bespoke gift tags, bearing a portfolio of fun messages such as “Meet Me Under The Mistletoe”, “You Totally Made Santa’s Nice List”, “Thank You, You’re Spa-tacular” and “Bubba On The Way”. The tags strike a heartwarming, emotional chord with both the sender and recipient. We offer an “early bird sale” each year, very competitive pricing structures and added value for bulk buys, free spa time for the sender, and free delivery! I have to say it’s also, a favourite campaign for me personally. It is so much fun to play outside the box and be able to throw all my creative marketing energy into something so successful. A complete joy of being SensAsia’s owner. Salina Handa, founder and managing director, SensAsia Urban Spas
Rule 3 – client rewards
It has become a tradition in the mariadowling Salon for us to have our very own “Tree of Fortune”, which runs all the way through December. It’s a really effective way of giving something back to our customers through what is traditionally one of our busiest months of the year. Our tree is covered with sealed mariadowling festive cards and every client who comes through the door is invited to pick a card. While some cards simply say, “Season’s Greetings” from mariadowling, others contain a gift from us, which can be anything from our own candles to gorgeous spa products. Our regular clients have come to expect it and often ask when the tree is going up! Maria Dowling, creative director, mariadowling Salon
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44 Aveda The Aveda 2016 holiday gift set collection features a new, limited edition holiday aroma, enriched with an oil blend including certified organic coconut oil and seasame oil, which leaves the skin soft and smooth. The limited edition Hand Relief Moisturizing Crème contains candrima – which gives a warm, comforting aroma of certified organic ginger and ginger lily that is perfect for the holidays. Call Aveda Middle East: +971 4 299 5600
Heaven Skincare The festive Heaven range includes the Willowbee mask and cleanse – which evens skin tone, closes pores and clears blackheads whilst refining skin. This mask is also anti-ageing, cleanses and firms. Call Heaven Skincare: +971 4 278 5145
Thalgo The Source Marine Beauty Kit from Thalgo contains the 24hr Hydra-Marine Cream, Hydra-Marine Serum and Deeply Nourishing Body Cream. Call Madi International: +971 4 338 2773
Seasons pickings Our pick of this season’s best gifts Elemis
HydroPeptide To mark the festive season HydroPeptide is offering a luxury travel case which is packed full of peptide and stem cell driven skincare rituals. This exclusive Skin Renewal Ritual gift set includes an exfoliating cleanser, pre-treatment toner, power serum, x5 power peels and the power lift product. Call Ener Beauty: +971 4 431 5250
This Elemis Wonders of Frangipani Gift Set is a celebration of Frangipani and Monoi – a deeply nourishing Tahitian coconut oil infused with Tiare flowers to indulge your client’s skin and senses. The gift set includes a Frangipani Monoi shower cream, salt glow, body oil, body cream and hand and nail cream. Call Elemis: +971 4 324 5414
Reviderm The Reviderm Intense Age Prevention Set is an anti-ageing active agent cosmetic set for normal to dry skin, which provides all the necessary components of a perfect skin care regime. Clients can start their day with a cleansing ritual, guard their skin with antioxidants and sun protection and ensure that their peepers sparkle with the special eye treatment - perfect for the festive season. Call Specialized Beauty: +971 4 388 4549
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45 Aromatherapy Associates Clients can transform their experience with Aromatherapy Associates’ Star Jewels, which includes a set of three award-winning oils. Employing the purest essential oils to provide a blissful aroma, the luxury trio includes Deep Relax for a peaceful night’s sleep, De-Stress Mind to focus the thoughts and Revive Morning to awaken the senses. Call The Product House: +971 4 379 1966
Orly Nashi Argan Nashi Argan Home Fragrance is composed of a mix of natural essences such as essential oil of geranium spotted, the sage extract and bitter orange oil that create the characteristic fragrance Nashi Argan. Suitable for any environment, Home Fragrance is a perfume that strikes for the elegance of the design and the pleasantness of the odor given off. Call Madi International: +971 4 338 2773
Essie A collection inspired by chic soirees, groovy vibes and mod style. The collection features six shades that can take your clients from cozy sweater weather glam to holiday parties – perfect for the festive season! Call L’Oreal UAE: +971 5 226 1966
The perfect stocking-filler for nail fanatics, this Christmas nail gift set contains sample sizes of some bestselling Orly nail lacquers. A mix of cremes and shimmers, this Orly trio pack is a great retail option for all your clients this festive season. Call Sawaya: +971 4 379 9939
Jane Iredale Clients can create their favourite smoky eyes with these eight blendable shades of Jane Iredale’s highly pigmented PurePressed eye shadows. Long-lasting and with crease resistant finish, this set comes with a compact mirror and dual-ended brush. Call Healthcare Trading: +971 4 447 7636
QMS Medicosmetics Featuring a handpicked selection of products, this skincare set is a combination of hydration and advanced rejuvenation. The high quality moisturising balance combines special DNA protection with intensely nourishing ingredients to leave the skin smooth and strenghthened. For the eyes and lip zones there are the effective Advanced Intensive Eye Care and Lip Line Corrector. These specialized products are designed to target premature aging and restore the skin’s youthful appearance. Call The Product House: +971 4 379 1966
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HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER
2017 HAIR TRENDS Note from the Editor
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here has 2016 gone? The past 12 months seem to have flown by, and now it’s time to head into the festive season. Family get-togethers and social events mean hair takes on a party feeling, with updo’s, dressed waves and smooth, silky finishes the order of the day. Natural curls and texture can take you from day to night, with embellishment and twists giving it a modern feel. And as we head into a new season, there are new trends to follow and techniques to learn, so check out our trend watch to see what you will be creating in the coming months. And while clients are visiting the salon, why not talk to them about the
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best products for their look? The consultation is the ideal time to talk retail, product usage and how to use the latest innovations to create the must-have looks at home in-between salon visits. And retail products also make a great Christmas present for friends and family. Thanks,
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TRENDS: CUT
SCISSORS AT THE READY – CUTTING HAIR IS BACK IN FASHION!
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FRINGE BENEFITS
It’s time to frame the face and make the fringe the focus of the look. Whether it is blunt, jaggered, sweeping or short, the fringe is the ultimate accessory.
PETER PROSSER
HOB SALONS
“The fringe will always be around but there’s been a real resurgence of it in many different forms. The micro fringe, whether blunt or ‘self cut’ was huge at New York Fashion Week and is strong when teamed with most haircuts. There’s also been a lot of 70’s vibe fringes which are beautiful when cut with that “purdy/page boy” shape, and the Bardot/ Madame “window” fringe is a beautiful way to introduce a fringe to clients who want to keep their look soft.” Luke Benson, D&J Ambrose
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SHORT AND SWEET
D&J AMBROSE
After seasons of long hair, short hair is back! Graduated necklines, precision lines and blunt perimeters. “We are moving towards a more lived-in feeling with haircuts, stepping away from the “fresh from the salon” look. Working with short exterior layers but longer interior layers, so leaving length and movement. We are creating haircuts that don’t just look good when clients walk out the door, but will look good when they style it themselves.” Ian Rotman, HOB Salons
MARC ANTONI
CREATE A MOVEMENT
Gone are the days of poker straight, helmet hair – this season it’s all about creating strength and movement with layers and softness.
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“This season it’s all about strength and movement. Cut into the neck and add a fringe that provides movement for a confident and individual look.” Bruno Marc Giamattei, Marc Antoni
GUY KREMER
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TRENDS: COLOUR
BOLD COLOUR MAKES ITS RETURN
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oving on from soft, balayage tones, there is a return of bold statement colours. From Sophia Hilton showcasing her perfect bleed technique on the HJ Stage, to Toni & Guy juxtaposing steely greys and acid yellows against deep cherry tones and pastel peaches, statement colour is firmly back on the colour menu.
TONI & GUY
COLOUR PROJECT
BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL
Think of a colour and chances are your clients will be wearing it this season. Fuchsia, royal blue, canary yellow – the brighter, the better!
MICHELLE GRIFFIN
“Bolder colours are taking over from pastels. It’s all about being more vibrant with your hair, but at the same time keeping it looking expensive. Often we add a few dots of black to deep emerald greens or electric blues, so it’s not bright and ‘rebellious’ looking, but more rich and sexy.” Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon
RUSH HAIR
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Amaya LLC, P. O. Box 8476, Dubai U.A.E. Tel : +971 4 605 8516, E-mail: ericson@almaya.ae www.amaya.ae
SOFT AND NATURAL
TRACEY DEVINE-SMITH
Rustic reds, velvet browns or soft blondes, natural hair juxtaposes with the bold colours also seen on the stages. From simple highlights to updated freehand techniques, Mother Nature is the inspiration.
BLUE TIT
COLOUR PROJECT
“Oh so natural colour is a major trend – it’s all about individual, imperfect colour. So when it comes to highlighted effects, we are using more imperfect strokes of ribbons of colour to break up dark brunette roots. This gives a true undone, sunkissed effect which is also great on blondes” Katie Mulcahy
KATIE MULCAHY SOPHIA HILTON
FEELING GREEN
Peppermint, berdant or emerald – whatever you want to call it, green is the colour of the season. Peeping through fringes, pastel hues or full-on slices, this is the shade your clients will be asking for.
FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING
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SKYLER MCDONALD
“When it comes to talk about green it’s all about the language you use with your clients. Peppermint and emerald sound more appealing than green, but however you dress it up it’s going to be huge!” Tracey Devine-Smith
DECEMBER 2016
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TRENDS: STYLE DIG OUT THE ROLLERS, TONGS AND DIFFUSERS, MOVEMENT IS BACK!
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urls, waves and movement – whatever you want to call it, natural texture is here to stay! Manipulating natural curls to using heated tools to create the look, it’s all about beautiful, feminine hair.
KEN PICTON
CURLS WORLD
Soft, voluminous curls are wearable and touchable. Sitting on the shoulders, it’s femininity at its best.
SHANE BENNETT
CHARLIE TAYLOR
“In women’s hair, we’re seeing natural texture, with styles looking a bit more ‘unfinished’ or deconstructed. Curls are in, but everything is brushed out and broken up to give that really natural look.” Darren Webster, Webster Whiteman
NATURAL TEXTURE
“Product use is important with curls and natural texture – they give client’s options to enjoy and bring out their natural curl and go for a softer, more relaxed feeling.”
Hair this season is all about femininity – softness, beauty and wearable hair. “Natural, feminine styles never lose their appeal. Manipulating hair to create beautiful, voluminous styles is a finely honed skill. It’s about the quality of the cut and the skill of the dressing.” Charlie Taylor
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CHARLIE TAYLOR FOR PHILIP KINGSLEY
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M EDICI N E • INSPIRING BEST PRACTICE IN MEDICAL AESTHETICS •
Note from the Editor
W
elcome to the first ever Aesthetic Medicine supplement to hit the GCC! From business advice to frank, honest and open discussion about clinical experience, our pages are packed with news, views and features designed to keep you up to date with all the goings on in our ever developing industry. To mark our first issue we speak to Dr Des Fernandes, founder of Environ Skincare who speaks to us about the worrying affects of being Vitamin A deficient. See more on page 59.
Following this, Julie Brackenbury gives her tips and tricks for using botulinum toxin in the lips. Read more on page 62. Aesthetic Medicine will be a quarterly feature within Professional Beauty Magazine GCC, keep an eye out for our next supplement in February! Thanks,
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EXPERT VIEW
Vital-min A Dr Des Fernandes, founder of Environ Skin Care, tells Aesthetic Medicine GCC why vitamin A will always remain essential for treating photo-ageing
V
itamin A was “discovered” approximately 100 years ago. By 1930 Sulzberger, an American physician known for his major contribution to dermatology, proposed that because the vitamin A molecule was so sensitive to light, a localised vitamin A deficiency might be responsible for wrinkled skin, which is seen only on areas exposed to sunlight.[1] The first reference to the anti-ageing effects of vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) was published in 1954[2], yet it was ignored, probably because people expected the benefits to be immediately visible, whereas changes only became apparent after prolonged use.
SUN INDUCED LOCALISED VITAMIN A DEFICIENCY
Every time we go out into light we start destroying the vitamin A in our skin so we lose vitamin A from our skin every day. In the upper layers of the skin, just below the horny layer of the skin vitamin A is concentrated and acts as a functional natural sunscreen that protects us from UVA as well as UVB. It is in more or less the same area of the epidermis where vitamin D is manufactured but the interesting thing about vitamin A is that while it is a sunscreen, it does not interfere with the UVB rays that manufacture vitamin D. In addition vitamin A is also found in the deeper parts of the skin where our collagen and elastin are found. This area can only be reached by UVA rays. Vitamin A also absorbs the energy of UVA rays in the deeper dermis. Standard sunscreens do not give sufficient UVA protection so the addition of vitamin A gives added UVA protection. Unfortunately, the absorption of UVA and UVB rays has a downside: the stores of vitamin A are fairly rapidly depleted and that has important metabolic consequences – it leads to a loss of vitamin A effects in the nucleus and DNA of the cell where it is utterly important for 1,000 genes.[3] You can get some idea of the importance of vitamin A if you understand that there are
20,000 genes in your body. Vitamin A controls five per cent of our body’s genes. Interestingly, vitamin D works intensively with vitamin A and controls about 4,000 genes so these two vitamins have a massive influence on the healthy function of the gene pool in our bodies.
HOW TO ENSURE OUR SKIN REMAINS RICH IN VITAMIN A
We need a safe and secure way to store vitamin A because the body needs it every second of the day. If we get more sun than usual, or if the skin is injured, then we need more vitamin A than normal. Vitamin A is stored in a special chemical form (called an ester) mainly as retinyl palmitate (RP). It does not matter what type of cosmetic vitamin A you apply to the skin, virtually all of it is converted into the storage form within a very short time. When our body needs it, stored vitamin A is converted by enzymes into the acid form which is the version that works on the DNA. There is no substitute for vitamin A. No alternative chemical can keep our skin cells safe and healthy. We need to ensure adequate doses of vitamin A all of the time, starting from when we are developing in the uterus until the end of our lives. Nature planned for us to keep lots of vitamin A in our skin cells, but the sun easily destroys these stores. That then causes photo ageing, pigmentation, wrinkles and sallow skin. Topical vitamin A supplementation is the safest, fastest way to allow us to promote the effects of vitamin A in the natural way but in the beginning this might irritate the skin when people have long-standing vitamin A deficiency. I recommend using the “soft” retinyl palmitate/propionate for starting vitamin A nourishment of the skin. I believe it is also important to supplement the vitamin A by mouth, allowing one to receive full benefits without the risk of irritating the skin. As the vitamin A is building up in the skin, topical applications of vitamin A can be used to get more intensive rejuvenation, which cannot be achieved by oral supplementation alone. >
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VITAMIN A MYTHS DEMYSTIFIED…
1. Topical vitamin A irritates and dries out the skin This only applies to people who have had important sun damage and have progressively destroyed the special receptors for vitamin A that are normally found on the surface of our cells. Young children do not get dry or irritated skin when they use vitamin A products because they have all the normal vitamin A receptors on the surface of the skin cells. As a result vitamin A easily gets into the cell and is metabolised. As we damage our skin through sunlight, we destroy these receptors. The consequence of deficient retinoid receptors on the cell surface, is that when one applies topical vitamin A it accumulates outside the cell and causes a chemical irritation because it is not supposed to be outside the cell. Paradoxically, the only way we can build receptors again is with exposure to vitamin A and that is why people who get a retinoid reaction are demonstrating that they desperately need vitamin A but must take an oral supplement of vitamin A and gradually and continuously expose their skin to vitamin A. Eventually as one makes more receptors, the irritation and dryness disappears. Some people have abnormal vitamin A metabolism and it may take a lot longer than they wish, but it will always be beneficial in the long run. 2. Vitamin A makes the skin thinner I don’t know how this rumour ever started! Vitamin A, in all its forms, always ends up making the skin thicker and healthier with a more effective outer protective barrier. Maybe the myth started because retinoic acid initially causes flaking of skin and is thought to be a peel. This is transient. The thickening is real and enduring. 3.Topical vitamin A is dangerous in pregnancy Vitamin A is a precious commodity for the skin that it selfishly guards – it can’t leave the skin because skin does not have the enzyme systems to move it into the blood. Every molecule of vitamin A ends up being safely stored and then metabolised to vitamin A acid to ensure that the skin never stops growing. Extensive tests have proved that vitamin A is not absorbed by the skin.[4] 4. Oral supplementation of vitamin A is dangerous in pregnancy Pregnant women, especially in the developed world, are the most vulnerable to developing vitamin A deficiency because they purposely avoid vitamin A. From the moment that the sperm fertilises the ovum, vitamin A becomes the dominant controller of the embryo. That fertilised cell has to divide into two cells, and then info four, then eight, then sixteen etc. and this growth is controlled by vitamin A. The cells must then also differentiate into different types of cells to make the cells of the bowel, brain, lungs, heart, skin, muscles etc. All of that differentiation falls under the control of vitamin A. Then the cells of the embryo have to grow and mature into the foetus, and after birth these cells have to grow further and mature into a healthy adult. So one can see that vitamin A is vitally important to create a healthy baby. There are much greater risks to the baby from low levels than people realise. Cleft palate, brain malformations [5] and conjoined twins are associated with low levels of vitamin A. No one has explored fully any other anomalies associated with low levels of vitamin A, but the baby’s immune system is heavily dependent on adequate vitamin A to keep it healthy in the early months of birth.
5. We must give our skins a break from vitamin A The only people who should stop using topical vitamin A are prisoners confined in dark basements where their skin vitamin A is totally protected from light. The rest of us are constantly exposed to light and with every second in light, more in summer than winter, we relentlessly destroy vitamin A. So we constantly need more vitamin A to address the vitamin A deficiency. We can do that with twice daily applications of vitamin A. In the morning, we should increase the level of vitamin A in our skin so that we have adequate stock to be a sunscreen and meet the physiological demand. We cannot arrest the ageing process; we can only slow it down. I think it is important to use vitamin A again in the evening because at night cells go into repair phase and vitamin A becomes essential. I will never stop using vitamin A every single day for the rest of my life. The need for vitamin A is irrevocably woven into the fabric of our DNA and this has been true for millions of years and will never change. AM REFERENCES 1. Sulzberger, M.B. and F. Wise, The year book of dermatology and syphilology. 1938 ed. 1938, Chicago: Year Book Publishers 2. Reiss, F. and R.M. Campbell, The effect of topical application of vitamin A with special reference to the senile skin. Dermatologica, 1954. 108(2): p. 121-8. 3. Nagpal, S. and R.A. Chandraratna, Vitamin A and regulation of gene expression. Curr Opin Clin Nutr Metab Care, 1998. 1(4): p. 341-6. 4. Sass, J.O., et al., Plasma retinoids after topical use of retinaldehyde on human skin. Skin Pharmacol, 1996. 9(5): p. 322-6. 5. Maden, M., Role and distribution of retinoic acid during CNS development. Int Rev Cytol, 2001. 209: p. 1-77.
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Dr Des Fernandes studied medicine and graduated with an MB.B.Ch at the University of the Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, South Africa. He obtained his surgical education and training (specialising in Cardiology), F.R.C.S. (Edin) from the College of Surgeons in Edinburgh in 1973. In 1979 he commenced a private practice in the field of Reconstructive and Plastic Surgery,the speciality in which he continues to practice today and in which he is internationally renowned. Dr Des has written numerous papers and chapters for medical publications on various Plastic Surgery procedures, and in more recent years he has studied, written and lectured around the world on skin health and skin rejuvenation through the use of vitamin skin preparations and technology. Through intensive research he discovered the essential role vitamin A plays in skin health. He became determined to create a skin care range that would maintain healthy skin, especially as the incidence of sun-related skin disorders was growing worldwide. He pioneered the use of vitamin A in high enough doses to help counteract the harmful effects of the environment, pollution and stress, and create radiant, visibly improved skin in the 1980s. At this point Dr Fernandes founded the skin care range Environ and a year later Environ introduced the world to the first vitamin A skin care system – the Environ Vitamin STEP-UP-SYSTEM™, following in 1992 with the world’s first chemical and physical sunscreen with antioxidants.
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I N J E C TA B L E S
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The Botox Pout Julie Brackenbury gives her tips and tricks for using botulinum toxin in the lips “It is always difficult to get a group of experts to agree on anything, let alone something challenged, personal and artistic as Botulinum toxin type A” Kane, (2013)1 THE LIP EPIDEMIC
It is not uncommon knowledge that lip augmentation is now part of the regular beauty routine for millions of women (slowly increasingly and arguably, men). Most aesthetic practitioners would agree lip augmentation is the biggest facial fashion accessory of this decade, and one that symbolises sensuality and youth. However, there was a time BoTxA applied in the perioral area was deemed as controversial treatment, but we now see indications for BoTxA constantly evolving and in safe hands, it can be administered in many areas of the face and neck.
SOCIAL MEDIA
In the past, only celebrities have battled constant scrutiny about their appearance. Nowadays, it is popular for most to have a public image, whether it be on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter. Diller et al (2011)2 suggested that for some women, the phenomena of using a public image on social media can create a compulsive obsession with looking perfect, and describes this as “beauty dysmorphia”. Other experts strongly believe that social media is the main contributory factor for the growing rise in cosmetic procedures, and consequently advises that aesthetic practitioners need to be aware of these drivers and the challenges.3 Importantly, it is not just females who are feeling the pressure; Hobza et al (2007)4 and Barker (2009)5 have suggested a strong relationship between social media and male self-esteem.
the philtral columns giving a prominent bow appearance to the lip whilst the orbicularis oris actions cause pursing of the lips and, over time, result in etched-in lines around the mouth, which can also be treated with small doses of BoTxA. The application of BoTxA in the oral region has been described by several authors (Ward and Barnes 2007).6 This results from diminishing the hollowing appearance within the vertical muscular bands, offering a “pseudo- augmentation”. Consequently, treatment can result in a widening of the philtrum column as well as slight eversion of the vermillion itself (Benedetto 2006).7 Niamtu (2008)8 explains that a series of injections of one to two units of BoTxA (Botox®) across the upper and lower lips can enhance the treatment of vertical rhytids and agrees with Benedetto (2006) as well as Beer (2007)9, in that the effect of decreasing the pursing actions creates a slight eversion of the lips, resulting in lips that appear to have been augmented. Alternatively, if your patient doesn’t have a specific cosmetic concern about their lip rhytides, then BoTxA can be used as a stand-alone treatment to subtly enhance the cupid’s bow. In addition, Niamtu states that using
CONFUSION WITHIN THE PUBLIC DOMAIN
Many are not aware of the different modes of action between dermal filler and BoTxA. Most people speak of “injectables” as non-surgical options for facial enhancement, but many misunderstand that there are many different types of “injectables”, and that different materials serve different functions. In the author’s opinion, there are a number of reasons for this; mixed messages via the mass media, lack of education and incorrect information from family and friends. In addition, those who are perceived to have gone “overboard” with aesthetic treatments can sometimes cause controversy and confusion within their peer groups. All of these reasons can be a challenge to the aesthetic practitioner.
APPLICATION
The cupid’s bow is a facial feature where the double curve of a human upper lip is said to resemble the bow of Cupid, the Roman god of erotic love. The peaks of the bow coincide with
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Fig 1:
Fig 2:
Fig 3:
Before
Before
Before
After
After
After
a combination of BoTxA with dermal fillers will prolong increased longevity of the effect – however, there is not much literature available to support this. Importantly, patients will have many questions for aesthetic practitioners from the common misconception that BoTxA should not be used in the lower face. This application is an off label treatment and by law, doctors, dentists and non-medical independent prescribers (i.e. nurses and pharmacists) are permitted to use or advise using a licensed medicine for indications, in doses and by routes of administration outside of the licensed recommendations (Davies, 2012).10 It is important to note that the responsibility for the consequences of the above actions lies with the prescriber. The prescription of a drug requires the prescriber, in light of the evidence, to balance the potential good and harm that might ensue.11-13
PATIENT SELECTION
Patient selection is key and the best results in the author’s opinion have been seen in those with fuller
and more youthful lips (see Figs 1,2, and 3). For patients who rely on lip contraction for their occupation (for example, scuba divers or wind instrument players), this treatment should probably be avoided. In addition, patients with a very thin/atrophic upper lip or a long columella-tovermillion distance should not be injected.14 Importantly, Semchyshyn and Sengelmann15 believe that these patients may experience an even thinner lipped appearance because of the slight lengthening of the lip. Managing expectation is absolute key in non-surgical aesthetic medicine and must be reflected in the consent form.
TECHNIQUE
Consultation, consent, photography, topical anaesthesia is performed, and the lips are wiped with alcohol. The main goal is to accentuate the white roll and cupid’s bow area to provide definition, especially in the “lazy M” region.8 To treat this muscle, a single injection of three to five units of Botox®, based upon the estimated muscle mass of the individual.9 By using a 31-gauge short-needle insulin syringe, the needle hub is inserted perpendicular, approximately halfway into the skin at each tip of the cupid’s bow, by way of an isolated serial puncture technique and bolus administration. The overall procedure takes approximately 20 minutes of clinical time to perform, but can be less depending on the practitioner’s experience.
There was a time BoTxA applied in the perioral area was deemed as controversial treatment, but we now see indications for BoTxA constantly evolving and in safe hands, it can be administered in many areas of the face and neck.
ADVERSE EVENTS
There does not exist a cosmetic procedure that is complication free and many of the problems aesthetic practitioners face are consistent with a learning curve, thus becoming less common with experience. As mentioned above, patient selection is a skill that comes from knowledge, skill and time. An in-depth consultation, informed consent and management of expectation can help improve communications when problems arise. In the author’s opinion, the number one rule for BoTxA is the same for dermal fillers and for all cosmetic procedures; take a conservative approach. Over treatment or correction is challenging and stressful for both the patient and practitioner, whereas under treating can provide comfort, confidence, trust and less stress. >
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Side effects include: Overcorrection Undercorrection Allergic reaction Bruising, swelling Unmet patient expectations Asymmetry Oral pursing problems One of the side effects that patients notice immediately after treatment is that their lips look instantly “plumped”. The reason for this is a combination of the numbing agent16 used, as well as the mild swelling caused as a result of the injection. In some cases this can provide an actual idea of what the result will look like once the effect of BoTOxA starts to have its effect.
LENGTH OF DURATION AND FOLLOW UP
From the author’s experience, the effects can last up to eight weeks and this reflects in the studies.7 Toxin duration at this location is typically seven to 10 weeks, shorter than that seen in other regions, but still on par with other highly dynamic areas such as nasalis lines.7 A follow-up visit is recommended at two weeks following treatment to assure patient satisfaction, efficacy and symmetry.
CONCLUSION
Our understanding and knowledge about the toxin has grown tremendously since it became available, which has led to an expansion of its use and indications and, although generally safe, effective, and well-tolerated, BoTxA at this location is best reserved for patients with a history of successful results in the upper face.17 Gordon18 agrees that BoTxA is a minimally invasive way to provide substantial cosmetic improvement to the signs of ageing around the lips and can provide an adjunct to lip augmentation. Of course, for real lip volume improvement, fillers are better advised. On the other hand, some patients “worry” about fillers, so to offer an alternative seems a reasonable option. Overall, successful injection technique requires a thorough understanding of the facial anatomy and interactions between the muscles. Aesthetic practitioners should be aware of the secondary compensation mechanisms that may occur when trying to paralyse or diminish the activity of a certain muscle or group of muscles. AM
REFERENCES 1. Kane (2013), Commentary: Asian Consensus Recommendations on the Aesthetic Usage of Botulinum Toxin Type A. Dermatol Surg, 39: 1861–1867 2. Diller V, Muir-Sukenick J, Willens M (2011) Face it: What Women Really Feel as Their Looks Change. Hay House, Carlsbad: CA 3. Furnham A, Levitas J (2012) Factors that motivate people to undergo cosmetic surgery. J Plast Surg 20(4): e47–50 4. Hobza CL, Walker KE, Yakushko O, Peugh JL (2007) What about men? Social comparison and the effects of media images on body and self-esteem. Psychology of Men & Masculinity 8(3): 161–72 5. Barker V (2009) Older adolescents’ motivations for social network site use: the influence of gender, group identity, and collective self-esteem. Cyberpsychol Behav 12(2): 209–13 6. Ward and Barnes (2007) Clinical Uses of Botulinum Toxins. Cambridge University Press 7. Benedetto (2006) Botulinum Toxin in Clinical Dermatology. CRC Press 8. Niamtu (2008) Vo-lip-tuous Plastic Surgery Practice http://www. plasticsurgerypractice.com/2008/03/vo-lip-tuous/ Accessed 05.08.16 9. Beer (2007) Using Botox in an Area Once Deemed “Off-Limits” Vol 15: 2: http:// www.the-dermatologist.com/article/6858 Accessed 05.08.16 10. Davies (2012) Administering prescription-only medicines in cosmetic practice: an overview Journal of Aesthetic Nursing Vol 1: 3 pp 128–135 11. Ferner R (1996) Prescribing licensed medicines for unlicensed indications. Prescribers’ Journal 36(2): 73–8 12. Department of Health (2006) Medicines Matters. http://tinyurl. com/2zbajh (05.08.16) 13. General Medical Council (2008) Good Medical Practice. http://tinyurl. com/ yk5c9vu (Accessed 05.08.16) 14. De Sa Earp & Marmur (2008) The five D’s of botulinum toxin: Doses, dilution, diffusion, duration and dogma. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy 10: 93–102 15. Semchyshyn N, Sengelmann (2003) RD. Botulinum toxin A treatment of perioral rhytides. Dermatol Surg. 2003;29: 490–5 16. Berkman et al (2012) Adverse effects of topical anesthetics for dermatologic procedures. Expert Opin Drug Saf 11:415–423 17. Berlin and Cohen (2011) Challenge: Treatment of Perioral Vertical Muscle Columns. The Dermatologist Vol 19: 7 http://www.the-dermatologist.com/content/ challenge-treatment-perioral-vertical-muscle-columns (Accessed 05.08.16) 18. Gordon (2009) Dentistry Today Type: Journal Article, Case Reports 28(5):94-97] BOTOX cosmetic for lip and perioral enhancement. http://europepmc.org/ abstract/med/1948 5016 (Accessed 05.08.16) 19. Fagien (1998) Extended use of botulinum toxin type A in facial aesthetic surgery. Aesthetic Surg J. 18:215-219 20. Goldman et al (2010) Elevation of the corner of the mouth using botulinum toxin type a. Journal of cutaneous and aesthetic surgery 3.3: 145
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Julie Brackenbury is an experienced aesthetic nurse practitioner and has worked in plastic and reconstructive surgery as well as cosmetic dermatology. She is a board member of the British Association of Cosmetic Nurses and writes for the Journal of Aesthetic Nursing.
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City & Guilds Level 2 Award in Foundation Cutting Level 2 Award in Salon Reception Level 2 Apprenticeship Diploma Level 3 Award in Creative Cutting Gloss Global Professional Bespoke Training Salon Management Session Stylist Masterclass July 2017 Eryca Freemantle Professional Make up Master Classes (Please contact the academy City & Guilds Level 2 Award in Colouring & Lightening Hair for the full course list ) Level 3 Apprenticeship Diploma Level 3 Award in Creative Colouring March 2017 Gloss Global Column Coaching (Free Seminar) City & Guilds Level 2 Award in Colouring & Lightening Hair August 2017 Level 3 Apprenticeship Diploma City & Guilds Level 3 Award in Creative Colouring Gloss Global Column Coaching (Free Seminar) Level 2 Award in Salon Reception Level 4 Colour Correction Gloss Global Professional Bespoke Training
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October 2017
City & Guilds Level 2 Award in Colouring & Lightening Hair Level 3 Apprenticeship Diploma Level 3 Award in Creative Colouring Gloss Global Professional Bespoke Training Salon Group Seminar Column Coaching (Free Seminar) Eryca Freemantle Professional Make up Master Classes (Please contact the academy for the full course list )
City & Guilds Level 4 Colour Correction Gloss Global Professional Bespoke Training
February 2017
City & Guilds Level 2 VRQ Diploma Level 2 Award in Dressing Hair Level 3 VRQ Diploma Level 3 Award in Bridal Hair Gloss Global Professional Bespoke Training Column Coaching (Free Seminar) Salon Management Eryca Freemantle Professional Make up Master Classes (Please contact the academy for the full course list )
November 2017
December 2016
City & Guilds Level 2 VRQ Diploma Level 2 Award in Dressing Hair Level 3 Award in Bridal Hair Gloss Global Salon Group Seminar
September 2017
City & Guilds Level 2 Award in Salon Reception Level 4 Colour Correction Gloss Global Professional Bespoke Training
We look forward in supporting you to develop your skills and enhance your career! For full details on these and other courses offered at Gloss Academy please contact us at: +971 4 321 6588 Email: admin@glossuae.com Facebook.com/glossuae Villa 869, Al Wasl Road, Jumeirah, Dubai www.glossuae.com
28/11/2016 11:37
opinion
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Stand out in the silly season Maria Dowling on maximising your marketing over the festive period
I
t’s pitched as the ‘most wonderful time of the year’ and for many industries, including the beauty and spa arena, it’s the busiest time of the year. Every year we look at our December bookings in October and know we’re going to be fully booked for most of this month. Everyone wants to have fabulous looking colour for the dressing up season. At mariadowling Salon we have a tried and tested festive campaign that our clients have come to know and love. The Tree of Fortune allows us to give each of our clients a festive greetings card and also gives them the chance to instantly win some gorgeous hair and spa prizes. Every client who visits the salon during December is invited to pick a card off the Tree of Fortune. These cards either contain a simple season’s greetings or select cards say “You’ve won”! Our clients get so excited about the promotion that they ask when it’s starting every year. Not only is this a way of giving something back to our lovely loyal clients, but it also enbles us to create a bit of festive excitement within the salon. While our objective isn’t to get more clients during December, as we’re usually fully booked already, it gives us a way of saying thank you for their support throughout the year. So, if you’re a salon or spa in the region, it’s a great idea to think up a campaign that will help give you that competitive edge, gain better customer loyalty, and bring a bit of seasonal cheer into the salon or spa. Here are my top ten ideas for standing out in “silly season”:
1 Offer stocking fillers A great marketing tip taken from supermarkets is to place a selection of inexpensive gifts on your reception desk to tempt last-minute purchases. Drop a heavy hint with a clear label, “ideal stocking-fillers”
2 Encourage online reviews It’s the best way to attract new clients and help to fill the “quieter” weeks come January. Print signage for each station, encouraging clients to review on
“Not only is this a way of giving something back to our lovely loyal clients, but it also enbles us to create a bit of festive excitement within the salon” specific pages. Remember to include a call to action and suggest where the reviews should go to make it easier
3 Salon selfies This works very well, particularly if your client has had a colour revamp or a special style for a party. Encourage your clients to take salon selfies by creating a frame or festive wall they can stand in front of. Keep it tasteful and a little fun. This will give you great content for your social media channels too
4 Go the extra mile On till receipts put a ‘festive greetings message’ or highlight your special offers or opening hours throughout the season
5 Extra opening hours Think about opening on your day off just through December, to give clients even more of an opportunity to book. It’s only a few weeks and means that if you already have full pages and a waiting list of clients, you can accommodate them during the busy time
6 Transform your shop window Remember your windows are free advertising and if you get a lot of passing trade, it’s highly visible. PB
Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 4225
Professional Beauty GCC December 2016
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29/11/2016 14:11
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"TL NPSF PG ZPVS DPMPS XJUI *OOPWBUJPO &WP *UBMZ &YDMVTJWFMZ %JTUSJCVUFE #Z .JMMJB $PTNFUJDT Email : millia99@eim.ae , Website : www.milliacosmetics.com
Bur Dubai
Jumeirah Al Diyafah Street. Tel : +971 4 351 13 30 Fax : +971 4 351 13 39
Dubai - Deira
Abu Baker Al Seddeek Str. Tel : +971 4 269 59 55 Fax : +971 4 269 59 57
Sharjah
Al Majaz - Jamal Abdul Nasser Str. Tel : +971 6 559 50 60 Fax : +971 6 559 58 83
Ajman
Shiekh Khalifa Street Tel : +971 6 740 88 28 Fax : +971 6 740 88 21
promotional feature
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Speed dating for the spa wellness and beauty industry at SPATEC Middle East Hosted-buyer event for the spa, wellness and beauty industries overview
T
he third edition of SPATEC Middle East was A wide range of product categories was represented held in September in Abu Dhabi. Spa directors including skincare products, computer software, spa & from across the region, and suppliers of wellness equipment, spa design and consultancy, products and services to the towels and robes, haircare and fitness industry got together at the Ritz-Carlton equipment. A combined total of more Grand Canal for a three-day programme than 160 hours of meetings were held of meetings and networking. during these sessions. Buyers, mainly An al fresco reception dinner kicked off spa directors sourcing for their facilities proceedings on the day of arrival. The in the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Saudi following morning, delegates gathered in Arabia, Bahrain, Oman, the Maldives, the Ritz-Carlton’s elegant meeting area for Egypt and Mauritius, moved from a Keynote Presentation – The Six Principles supplier desk to supplier desk for their of Persuasion and Influence, delivered by pre-set 20 minute meetings. Middle East business psychologist and spa owner Neil A team building evening on day two Orvay. This set the scene for the first of included a visit to the impressive Sheikh two full-day sessions of one-on-one buyer-supplier Zayed Grand Mosque followed by a lavish barbecue appointments, affectionately referred to as speed- buffet dinner at the Saadiyat Beach Club. dating for business. SPATEC Middle East 2016 came to a close with a farewell dinner during which a 15-minute video was screened. Put together from footage shot throughout the event, and peppered with humour and some surprise cameo actors, the mini-movie elicited laughter and applause, a fitting end to SPATEC Middle East 2016. PB
SPATEC 16
Next year’s SPATEC Middle East will be held 28-31 October at a venue that will be announced in the coming weeks. SPATEC Middle East is one of 14 appointment-based events organised by Questex-McLean Events for four different industries worldwide. For more information please visit www.spatecevents.com.
Professional Beauty GCC December 2016
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29/11/2016 13:06
tried and tested
professionalbeauty.ae
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Star pickings This month we tried a revolutionary weight loss system, an ion active facial and the launch of a brand new hair technique
This month we tried... ReduStim at Dubai Science Park The lowdown: ReduStim is a hands-free medical device, which targets abdominal fat reduction. With years of scientific research behind it, the device is based on a technique that uses cellular activation through bio magnetic fields naturally stimulating the reduction of fat accumulation. The stored fat is then eliminated through the body’s natural fat-burning process. The fully hands-free device is clinically recognised and provides visible, lasting results after twelve 45-minute sessions. The treatment has no side effects, doesn’t change metabolism and is completely painless!
I was completely at ease. The ReduStim suit stretches from your feet right up to your abdomen and after being zipped and strapped in, the device gets to work with what feels like a deep massage all over your entire body. Before the first session, after the sixth session and on your final session, measurements are taken of the abdomen, hips and around each leg. I was absolutely amazed at the results after the twelfth session – I’d lost 7cm around my hip area over the course, and 3cm on both of my legs and on my abdomen – absolutely amazing considering that I changed neither my diet nor fitness regime!
PB says: I was invited to complete a twelve-session course at the ReduStim Headquarters in Dubai Science Park in October and I was extremely eager to know more about this medical device after hearing about the amazing results that this medical device could achieve. Before the treatment, I was reassured that this device was completely painless, and after the first treatment,
Business benefits: The beauty of this device is that it’s completely handsfree, meaning that you don’t need a therapist in the room for the whole session. You can also upsell a facial treatment at the same time as the device only focuses on the abdomen areas and downwards. I used the time to catch up on my emails – allowing a client to work and loose weight all in a lunch break!
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professionalbeauty.ae
tried and tested
73 Eclipting hair technique by Aveda, Galleria Mall The lowdown: Aveda’s new colouring technique focuses on an individual’s face frame. The colourist plays with light and dark tones to personalise the client’s hair to accentuate their best facial assets. The Eclipting technique keeps hair darker around the face, which creates the frame, while a dusting of fine weave foils creates a seamless blend. The Eclipting technique is completely customisable to suit every client’s needs. PB says: Being a blonde, I felt that I’d always missed out on the cool ombre and balayage trends. I thought that in order to achieve these looks, I would have to go back to being darker but I was surprised to learn that the new Eclipting technique, which was revealed at the latest Aveda Master Jam event, was perfect for blonde hair! Using lighter and darker tones of blonde, the colourist took to
Eclipting my hair using darker tones of blonde around my face to help elongate, and using lighter tones around to help set this off. The colourist also worked with my eye colour (light brown to green) to make sure the colours she chose enhanced this feature. Business benefits: Personalisation has been a hot trend this year, and especially contouring for make-up. Aveda has introduced “contouring” to the hair industry by the launch of this technique – not all tones and colours that come out of the tube suit everyone. Colour matching the client to suit their eye colour, skin colour and face shape makes their experience in your salon with you more personable, and the results will be better, as they’ll walk out of the salon with a hair transformation that suits them.
This month we tried... Dermalogica IonActive Power Facial at Esthetic Sense, Golden Mile The lowdown: The IonActive Power Treatment is a new treatment launched by Dermalogica this year, which combines thermal activity and the latest treatment-room technology to optimise product penetration which dramatically improves skin. The treatment is for anyone who has challenging skin conditions such as premature skin aging, acne and dehydration. PB says: I’ve had troubled skin since arriving in Dubai nine months ago, which has continued to worsen with spots and swelling. Attending the product launch of Dermalogica’s new Ion Active & Phyto Replenish Oil, I learned of the treatment that comes with it and I was itching to try it out – and see if it would make a difference to my never-ending skin problems. After having my facemapped, the therapist could clearly see that the problem area was severely dehydrated – this surprised me as my skin is generally quite oily! I was told that Niacinamide would be applied on the problem areas to help reduce swelling. The therapist
also noticed that my skin tone was very uneven and explained that using an Oligopeptide product on my face during my treatment would help. The treatment began with the usual cleansing and exfoliation and this was followed with an application of the necessary products to the troubled areas. The actives on my skin were “supercharged” with the thermal activity of the machine as the therapist used the latest technology to drive ingredients faster into my skin. Afterwards, my skin felt super refreshed and revitalised, I especially noticed that the swelling has gone down considerably. Business benefits: Tailoring a treatment to suit your client’s needs is essential if you want to boost your client retention. Have a facemapping system within your salon allows you to tailor bespoke treatments around your clients skin conditions which will not only gain better results for your client, but will also gain better results for your business. PB
Professional Beauty GCC December 2016
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29/11/2016 14:15
nail inspiration
professionalbeauty.ae
74 Jessica
EvO2
The soak off gel collection from Jessica comes in an impressive range of colours and has been created with nurture of the natural nail in mind. Latest shades include russet reds, tawny pinks, minks and sumptuous cranberries - there’s something for everyone. Call Cosmetica: +971 4 239 46 66
The exciting Mood Colours range by Bio Sculpture offers five clever hues that are more changeable than the UAE weather! With this fun line, your client’s nails can transform from pillar box red to a luscious orange, for example, depending on whether she hugs a cup of coffee or grabs a cool glass of water. From pinks to blues, there’s a shade to suit all tastes. Call Bio Sculpture Middle East:
Glitz and glamour From mood changing colours to gorgeous chrome talons, get the gen on the latest innovations in gel nails
Gelish Developed by nail technicians for nail technicians, Gelish was the world’s first brush-in-bottle gel polish and the range offers a multitude of colours. Standout shades include the smoky coral Perfect Landing and subtle sage Oh Parachute from the Sweetheart Squadron range. There are also shimmering red, deep burgundy, solid grey and soft pink tones in the collection. Call Sawaya International: + 971 4 379 99 39
CND The Shellac line offers a 14-day manicure with high shine and durability. For this season, the Craft Culture range offers weathered textures that come in smoky oranges, deep reds and rustic blues for a warm palette. Call Monarqi Beauty: + 971 4 406 50 00
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77 Chrome Create the nails of the season with Bio Sculpture’s new Chrome Catalyst pack – just introduced to the UAE. Created by using the chrome powder with the EvO or Bio gel, this look takes the mirrored, high-shine finish to a whole new level. Call Bio Sculpture Middle East: + 971 4 341 48 20
Essie Essie Gel Couture nail polish is inspired by haute couture. The line presents 42 exciting new colours, that can also be retailed to your client, with up to 14 days of wear. Call Essie: + 971 5 6605 50 79
Artistic Nail Design Artistic’s Gloss Colour is a long lasting range of soak off gels. Inspired by the rich shades of autumn and winter, the Own Your Look collection features six six colours ranging from daring greens to multi-faceted shimmers, there’s a lot for your nail professionals to experiment with. Artistic Nails is available from Sawaya International in the Middle East, call + 971 4 379 99 39 and Beauty Essentials in the UAE, call + 971 4 554 6058
Bio Sculpture Billed as “eccentric and arty, elaborate yet beautiful”, Biosculpture’s new Decadent collection features four shades: Spun Out Of Dreams, a muted pastel peach, Wild at Heart, a rich red berry, Jewelled Opulence, a glitter with contrasting light and dark particles; and the metallic chocolate Rosewood Stardust. Call Bio Sculpture Middle East: + 971 4 341 48 20
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Diary dates JANUARY 26-29 IMCAS WORLD CONGRESS The Palais de Congres de Paris, France The 19th annual International Master Course on Ageing Skin will once again present sessions covering all the key procedures in aesthetic medicine. www.imcas.com/en FEBRUARY 4-5 AESTHETIC MEDICINE LIVE London Olympia Aesthetic Medicine Live brings you face to face with even more market-leading manufacturers and suppliers than ever before. From injectable products and threads to skincare, body shaping devices and lasers, our exhibitors will be showcasing their latest innovations. The show is often a platform for new launches too, giving you a first look at the technologies and treatments that will be making waves in 2017. www.aestheticmed.co.uk
FEBRUARY 6 – 7 WORLD SPA & WELLNESS CONVENTION The Meydan Racecourse, Dubai Returning for the third year is the global World Spa & Wellness Convention where the spa industry unites under one roof. Leading experts around the world will come together to give their business advice and reveal the trends set to impact the industry in 2017. www.professionalspawellness.com/ dubaiconvention FEBRUARY 26-27 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON ExCeL, London Professional Beauty’s flagship exhibition with 33,805* visitors (ABC audited) and the show will feature more than 800 brands, hundreds of new product launches, with thousands of savings to be made. Alongside the show will run two international conferences, seven seminar programmes and four live stages. www.professionalbeauty.co.uk MARCH 7-8 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BANGALORE Bangalore, India Professional Beauty Banagalore is going from strength to strength and its latest show will be packed with product innovations and launches, and an exciting array of networking opportunities. www.professionalbeauty.in
Provides unique and tested hair care treatments Suite 201, Al Maha Building, Al Diyafah Road, Dubai, UAE Phone # +971 4 3458833 | +971 4 3455005 Email: plook@eim.ae Website: www.perfectlook.ae | www.nanogen.ae | www.magnifibres.ae
Don’t miss... FEBRUARY 6-7 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GCC The Meydan Racecourse, Dubai, UAE Now in it’s third year, the exhibition features all the top hair, nail, spa and beauty brands from the GCC and beyond. Alongside the exhibition runs the World Spa & Wellness Convention Dubai, plus live stages and competitions. Attended by the regions premiere business people, the show provides unbeatable networking opportunities. www.professionalbeauty.ae
SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae
Contact US: 04-2561985 Fax : 04-2262474 P.O. Box : 52315, Murshid Bazar Behind Wholesale Plaza Bldg. Dubai - U.A.E. www.ferrarucci-cosmetics.com
Services Offered • Protein • ManiCare and Pedi Care • Blowdry• Keratin & Botox • Chinese Massage & Spa • Hair Style• Bridal Services Visit Us: Al Wasl Road Um Al Sheif Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 50 757 7343/ +971 4 3791293 Email us: info@baraviabeauty.com/ Follow us:
@baraviabeauty/
baraviabeauty
Gloss Academy Courses starting January 2017 City & Guilds Hairdressing Courses January 2nd to April 20th Level 2 Diploma January 2nd Level 2 Apprenticeship Diploma January 15th to 19th Level 2 Award in Dressing Hair January 2nd to May 5th Level 3 Diploma January 2nd Level 3 Apprenticeship Diploma January 15th to 19th Level 3 Award in Bridal Hair Gloss Global Courses January 10th Column Coaching—FREE SEMINAR 3 days of Bespoke Professional Training 3 hour Salon Group Seminar For more information and bookings please contact us on: +971 4 321 6588 Villa 869, Al Wasl Road, Al Safa 2, Jumeirah, Dubai Email: admin@glossuae.com We look forward to supporting your career development into the world of hair and makeup
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Distributor of KOMASK 4D PROFESSIONAL MAKEUP - 16 Hours Waterproof Matte Liquid Lips Visit us Dubai: Abu Bakr Al Siddeeq | Sharjah: Sahara Centre Sharjah: Al Khan Str. | Contact: +971 4 2666947 www.kontarbeauty.com
30/11/2016 09:48
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