Professional Beauty GCC - January 2016 by Professional Beauty GCC

January 2016

For your beauty, hair and spa business

GCC

Trend Talk

Nail and make-up looks for 2016

Crash course

Gel nail problems solved

The show is on the road! Exhibition preview special

newyear,newskin and beyond 2016 Skincare tips

and resolutions for

Visit us at PBGCC 2016 - Stand F11

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Visit our stand no. J7 at Professional Beauty GCC Feb - 1&2, 2016 The Meydan, Dubai

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Published by and (C) 2015 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LLC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributing editor: Zoe Moleshead zoe@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Maria Dowling Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Marketing Manager: Nicki Wyatt nicki@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production:

Scratch Advertising & Communication www.scratchcom.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

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in this issue... Regulars 7

News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty

Features 61 Spotlight on spa speakers Daniella Russell on the Dubai PSWC 2016

80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade 21 Insider shows to conferences and Our exclusive monthly stats training for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 35 Ask the experts Advice on hair detoxes, spa heat and water facilities and organic self-tans

Cover: Goldess collection by Angelo Seminara for Davines

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

63 Jane Wurwand The Dermalogica founder on taking therapy outside of the treatment room

welcome

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appy New Ye a r! W hat w ill 2016 hold for your busine ss? Here at Professiona l Beauty the ye a r sta r ts w ith exciting news – the a nnouncement of our launch of exclusive content from Ha irdre ssers Jour na l in our nex t issue ( Febr ua r y). The ma rket- le ading publication in the U K , Ha irdre ssers Jour na l w ill prov ide us w ith the late st st yle s, adv ice a nd inspiration. We hope this content w ill help to educate a nd g row the ma rket here in the GCC. To le a r n more, re ad our news stor y on pa ge 7. This is our show preview issue – The Professional Beauty GCC exhibition will be held on February 1-2 at The Meydan, Dubai. As such, this month’s magazine is jam-packed with all the information you need to make the most of your time at the expo. Pages 43-58 reveal what’s in store for visitors, covering the Live Stage, The Nail Competition, Seminars and details of exciting new launches from our exhibitors. The Professional Spa and Wellness Convention will be running parallel to the exhibition and the full programme of speakers can be viewed on pages 58 and 59. The conference is a unique opportunity to network with all the right people in the GCC spa industry, and last year’s successful conference was a hotbed of ideas and inspiration. I’m certainly looking forward to attending again this year. If you haven’t registered for the exhibition or conference, there’s still time. Please visit our website www.professionalbeauty.ae Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR

43 On the cover 25 Crash course Gel nail problems solved 30 Trend Talk Nail and make-up looks for 2016 43 The show is on the road! Exhibition preview special

21 43

67 New year, new skin Skincare predictions for the New Year

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 56 445 2369

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Beirut, Lebanon Tel: +961 70 366 007

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News

All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa

Hairdressers Journal content to launch in Professional Beauty

rofessional Beauty GCC will feature exclusive content from the UK’s leading professional hair magazine – Hairdressers Journal – from next month. “Exclusive from HJ UK” will launch as a new section in the February issue of the magazine, featuring trends and expert advice from the marketleading magazine, which has a 133-year heritage and has run the prestigious

British Hairdressing Awards since 1984. Moloney, managing director of Professional Beauty, commented: “As the marketing leading magazine for the British hair industry, Hairdressers Journal is at the forefront of one of the world’s most influential hair scenes. “Aspirational hairdressers in the GCC who look to the UK hair industry for trends and techniques will now have easy access to this information in the pages of

Professional Beauty GCC magazine.” Professional Beauty acquired Hairdressers’ Journal and the Salon International exhibition, as well as the British Hairdressing Awards, from Reed Business Information in October 2015. International stylists will also provide inspiration on the Hairdressers Journal Live Stage at the Professional Beauty GCC exhibition next month. For more information visit www.professionalbeauty.ae

More than 500 international and regional VIP guest came together to celebrate the arrival of the London-based “beauty at your door” concept, Blowout&Go in Dubai. At a glitzy party at the Grosvenor House hotel Dubai, entrepreneurs, senior executives, socialites, bloggers and media came together to mark the 007-themed occasion. Guests included brand ambassador Shereen Mitwalli, actor Andy Madadian, and beauty icon Mariam Rodd as well as celebrity stylist and Redken ambassador, Tony Wood who was flown in from the UK to perform live hair demonstrations. Blowout&Go was founded by power couple Paria Ghorashi and Ali Rafi. “My husband and I are very excited about the Dubai launch for Blowout&Go. As a full time mother and career woman, I often struggled to find the time to visit the hair salon especially immediately after the birth. I created the concept of Blowout&Go to specifically help women, so that they could look and feel good without having the inconvenience of visiting salons, all at an affordable price. I hope that Blowout&Go will help the ladies of Dubai fit their beauty routines into their busy schedules,” said Rafi.

Backed by a strong social media presence, since its soft launch in Dubai six months ago, 2000 women have taken advantage of Blowout&Go. With a qualified team of more than 20 hair and make-up artist servicing Dubai, women can book a style agent between 8am – 10pm, seven days a week. Prices start from AED 150 for a blow-dry and AED 300 for make-up. Professional hair care brand Redken 5th avenue has formed an exclusive partnership with Blowout&Go. Khalid Dugmag, general manager for the premium hair care brand told Professional Beauty, “We look forward to the launch of Blowout&Go and truly believe that it will develop into a regional success story. We are happy and honoured to be the

exclusive providers of the products used in Blowout&Go.” Other partners include international cosmetic brand, Urban Decay and NeuLash.

Blowout&Go arrives in style

Talise Spa in Kuwait says “I do” The spa, located at the Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel, has unveiled a number of bridal packages, which it says make for a perfect pre-wedding celebration. Combining facials, massages and more, the treatments are designed to offer the utmost in pampering for brides-to-be and their families and friends. The three packages offered are the Tradition with Luxury Ritual, a 190 minute hammam treatment that combines an exotic cleansing ritual and a diamond sublime facial, the Head-To-Toe Ritual, a 180 minute traditional Dead Sea body scrub together with a full body massage and customised facial and the Glowing Skin Ritual, a 130 minute vitamin C body scrub, also including a hydrotherapy treatment, body mask and reflexology massage.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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10 “Alternative water” and wearable technology among future industry trends

mart technology, water, energyboosting properties and natural and organic products are four key industry trends for the future, according to a new report. Market researcher Mintel pinpoints the four areas as set to be among the developments that define the beauty industry between now and 2025. Advancements in technology, including wearable technology, means consumers now have greater control over their health and beauty regimen, with solutions, Mintel stated, set to continue becoming increasingly tailored to the individual. Vivienne Rudd, director of insight, beauty and personal care at Mintel, said: “As consumers become increasingly familiar with using technology to track their health and well-being, they are looking for beauty brands to offer products and devices that boast similar functionality.” Mintel also predicts that with water set to become an increasingly precious commodity the world over, consumers will look for the beauty sector to provide skincare solutions that require as little water as possible and drain

the earth’s resources to a minimum extent. Rudd said: “Our research shows growing consumer interest in alternative water sources that do not place any additional strain on existing resources, and we will see brands scour the earth to find them in order to gain a competitive edge.” As stress continues to plague the global population, beauty and wellness products and services that can help boost flagging energy levels will also become increasingly in demand, the market researcher predicted. One area that will continue to grow in importance as a result of this is nutrition

Al Faisaliah blooms with new rose-inspired treatments Ladies-only spa Al Faisaliah Spa by Espa, recently awarded the World’s Best Female Spa, World’s Best Spa Design and Saudi Arabia’s Best Hotel Spa at the World Spa Awards, has launched a bespoke rose facial and rose poultice experience. The Royal Arabic Rose Facial is designed to ensure guests indulge in an exceptional and personalised experience while the Arabic Rose Poultice Experience involves two hours of relaxation, including a foot scrub, exfoliation, the application of herbal poultices and a scalp treatment. Jennifer Agapie, spa director, said; “The new personalised treatments further add to the unique guest experience at the Al Faisaliah Spa by Espa. We have taken the time and expertise to provide tailored

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

offerings that are specific to each of our guest’s needs with the continued aim to redefine luxury and deliver a world class, multiple award-winning spa service.” The spa features six treatment rooms, two private spa suites, relaxation rooms, whirlpool, nail studio, hair salon and a fitness zone with the latest Technogym equipment.

supplements and healthy food options, with more collaborations likely between the beauty and nutrition sectors. The demand for natural and organic products and the consumer interest in knowing what goes into a product will also continue, Mintel forecast.

H2E2 promises a holistic approach to business solutions H2E2 is launching to create cuttingedge wellness business solutions, backed-up with the forthcoming launch of an e-business suite. The online solution will serve users, operators and suppliers in the sector, with an innovative platform that serves all parties involved in the industry. The company, which is making its debut at the Professional Beauty GCC exhibition next month and has confirmed it will be a platinum sponsor of the Professional Spa and Wellness Dubai Convention, is setting out to bridge the gap between wellness enterprises, suppliers and customers. One of H2E2’s services is offering a holistic range of solutions that manage the entire lifecycle of launching a wellness business – from concept to implementation. It will also help existing market players reach the right suppliers or brands, and the biggest possible audience. Iyad Abdalrahim, managing director of the company, said: “H2E2 will also introduce unique e-services that will further consolidate the needs of the users along with the service providers and the suppliers holistically.” The H2E2 team includes well-known industry and business members, Gamal Ghazy, Fady Tawfik and Maria Antonela Axinte, who together have a wealth of industry experience and knowledge. To learn more, visit H2E2 at the Professional Beauty GCC exhibition at The Meydan 1-2 February.

Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 56 445 2369

www.eidealonline.com

Beirut, Lebanon Tel: +961 70 366 007

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New look Anantara The Palm features Year-long celebrations mark “Fountain of Youth” resort’s 5th birthday

he expansion and renovation of the Anantara The Palm Dubai’s spa has brought with it a string of new facilities, features and offerings. The two-tier spa Asian-inspired spa now boasts 24 treatment rooms. The ground floor features six single treatment rooms with showers, two beauty rooms, a Thai massage suite, a holistic cocoon room, an Ayurveda suite and three couples’ suites, each of which feature a Serali steam bath, experience showers and an infinity solo pool bath. The first floor has eight treatment rooms together with two new 34-square metre couples’ massage rooms with a built in sauna, shower and whirlpool, featuring Microsilk technology. The spa also now boasts a Turkish-style hammam with separate male and female facilities. “We are the first spa in the region to introduce Microsilk technology, the bathing experience beauty experts are

calling ‘the Fountain of Youth’. Guests will have the option to upgrade their hammam experience and enjoy the oxygen-rich micro-bubble bath, which is a patented process that supersaturates the water with billions of bubbles, raising oxygen levels up to 70 per cent higher than common tap water, increasing metabolism and promoting the growth of skin cells,” said JeanFrancois Laurent, general manager, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort. Parallel to the physical expansion of the spa, its treatment menu has also been enhanced and now incorporates over 30 treatments, ranging from hammam rituals to Ayurvedic treatments. “The Royal Hammam experience is an East-meets-West combination performed in the couples’ Turkish hammam and treatment room, and epitomises our years of Anantara Spa expertise and the ageold therapies originating in the Middle East,” said Afrah Hamdy, director of spa, Anantara The Palm Dubai.

Vaniday app named among best on Google Play The online salon and spa booking platform has been lauded as one of the best apps on Google Play in the UAE. Established less than seven months ago, Vaniday allows busy people to book a hair, beauty or well-being appointment quickly and conveniently via the app. “Given that Google Play serves as the official app store for the Android operating system, having the app featured on this acclaimed digital platform demonstrates that influencers in the digital sector believe our concept is integral to lifestyle in the Middle East,” says Nitin Reen, co-founder and CEO of Vaniday Middle East. “This additional visibility stands

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

as proof of trust from Google that our app appeals to their user base, which in turn ensures we have the best possible chance of reaching our potential client base. “Vaniday aims to enable beauty and wellness services to become just as accessible digitally as other industries have become within the past few years, by streamlining the discovery and booking process for salon and spa customers. At the same time, Vaniday provides partnered salons with intuitive and constantly updated CRM, marketing, and online-booking tools that would be costly for them to develop on their own.”

Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, the Ottoman inspired luxury resort located on Palm Jumeirah, Dubai that includes Talise Ottoman Spa, marks its fifth anniversary on 4 January with a plethora of celebrations. A series of offers, valid throughout 2016, have been launched to mark the occasion, including a year-long room package and themed offers at both Talise Ottoman Spa and the restaurants. Throughout 2016 on the fifth of each month, the Talise Ottoman Spa will offer special discounts on treatments and retail products. The celebrations will also extend to the resort’s leisure and children’s facilities, with special offers and activities scheduled for the fifth of each month at Sinbad’s Kids Club and the water sports area. The resort’s portfolio of restaurants will offer a dedicated fifth anniversary dessert and special themed beverages available throughout the year. Fernando Gibaja, general manager, said: “We are proud to celebrate the resort’s fifth year of operation. We have watched the resort get bigger and better since opening in 2011 and its success is owed to the dedicated and talented team of colleagues we have. We welcome and look forward to many more years creating memorable and exhilarating experiences for our guests.”

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New benchmarking report offers insight into Dubai spas

he inaugural Dubai Spa Benchmark report, published by the hotel division of global real estate company Colliers International, is based on data from 216 treatment rooms, provided by Dubai operators. The report looked at three spa categories in Dubai: beach and desert resort spas, city hotel spas, and standalone day spas. While the market as a whole saw a year-on-year increase compared to 2014, the report found that city hotel spas actually saw a six per cent drop in treatment revenue. Treatment room utilisation at standalone day spas was found to be the highest, at 26 per cent, while it was 22 per cent for beach and desert resort spas and the lowest, 16 per

cent, for city hotel spas. The overwhelming majority, 79 per cent, of guests at standalone day spas are female, while the breakdown is 50/50 at beach and desert resort spas and 52 per cent female and 48 per cent male at city hotel spas. As many as 74 per cent of clients at beach and desert resort spas are in-house hotel guests, with just 26 per cent being walk-in guests. The corresponding figure for city hotel spas is 57 per cent in-house hotel guests and 43 per cent walk-in guests. Daily treatment revenue per available room was the highest at beach and resort spas, at US$247 (AED 907) while it was US$169 (AED 620) for city hotel spas and $162 (AED 619) for standalone day spas.

Boulevard Zone launches new eco-friendly products Boulevard Zone, the beauty supplies distributor, has introduced Little BU polishes and EcoTowel to the region. The safe, toxin-free polishes are ideal for children and mums alike with fun, fashion forward shades in cream, crystalised, pearlised and high shinenail effects. Little Bu can be washed or peeled off but also comes with a top coat that can be applied for a longer-lasting effect. William Al Hayek, managing director of Boulevard Zone Trading LLC, exclusive distributor of Little BU in the Middle East said: I believe it [Little Bu] will work well in this region as I recognise that a growing number of sophisticated girls in the city are frequenting salons with their mothers and best friends for pampering manicure and pedicure services. “After identifying this growing trend among the budding urban

sophisticates, I decided to look for an appropriate range of polish to cater for their the needs. The concept of a truly safe, odourless, non-toxic formula with a glossy finish for children has been so popular that it has transcended age parameters, with chic women-in-the-know flocking to use Little BU nail polish!” Little BU is already on sale at Sharjah Ladies Club, and in Dubai venue’s such as Cocoon Nail Spa, The Change Initiative, and Talise Spa in the Burj Al Arab.

Boulevard Zone has also launched EcoTowels – biodegradable towels and products designed for individual, onetime use in salon and spas. Adhering to Dubai Municipality guidelines regarding environmental health requirements in salons and spas and use of disposable towels, Eco Towels are made out of all-natural fibres and designed and developed in the UK.

Spa revenue per occupied hotel room was also higher for beach and desert resorts, at US$13 (AED 47) with the equivalent figure for city hotel spas being US$6 (AED 22).

Talise Fitness enhances digital presence Recognising the growing importance of the digital world, Talise Fitness has launched its own dedicated website, www. TaliseFitness.com, which it will use not only to promote the wellness brand, but also as a springboard for the launch of other digital communication channels. The website is the latest step in Talise Fitness’ plans to enhance its visibility, competitiveness and accessibility to the local community. “Digital has always been an important part of the Talise Fitness marketing and communications strategy. The website will help to establish the brand’s online presence, which we can then expand into other digital channels,” said Cedric Betis, general manager of Talise Fitness. Currently the website will carry information for members including class timetables, event details, trainer and club profiles, membership options and special offers. Blogs and newsletters will also provide information to visitors from Talise’s team of fitness and wellness experts.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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17 Industry news from around the globe

Norway’s largest spa opens

he Well, the largest spa in Norway, has opened its doors to guests. The spa, located outside Oslo, crosses 10,500sq m and features 25 treatment rooms, 15 saunas and 11 pools. The spa and wellness centre, which span three floors, is for adults only and includes a range of indoor and outdoor water, heat and other features. Facilities at The Well range from a Japanese garden, a hammam, a crystal steam bath and a herbal sauna, to a Moroccan rhassoul, a Nordic light sauna, a waterfall grotto and a jungle sauna. Other amenities include a hot water

pool, a cold water pool and a shower grotto. The Well’s 15 saunas includes a two-story Blockhouse Sauna, with temperatures on the top storey up to 100 °C. The aufguss sauna features professionals carrying out the aufguss ritual, which includes pouring hot water on the stones in the sauna and moving the hot air around the sauna with a towel. The spa, a US$50m project, also comprises a restaurant with space for 250 guests. Owned by Norwegian billionaire Stein Erik Hagen, who also owns the Farris Bad spa hotel in the city of Larvik, it employs a staff of 130.

Social media craze drives sales of facial masks in UK

Sales of facial masks continue to rise, partly driven by the 2015 trend for “multi-masking,” according to new data from global market analyst the NPD Group. UK sales of facials masks rose by 22.8 per cent between October 2014 and October 2015, the market analyst revealed. And, while sales of masks still represent a relatively limited 1.6 per cent of the women’s skincare market as a whole, its value has increased significantly in the past three years. This year has seen a social media craze for “multi-masking,” seeing beauty bloggers and others uploading pictures of applying several different masks at a time.

This, NPD said, had helped drive sales of facials masks. June Jensen, director of UK beauty for The NPD Group, said: “Masks have been growing in popularity over the last three years, but it was the Instagram craze for multi-masking that stimulated huge growth in the market. “Customers began experimenting with two or three masks at one time and this trend really took hold in the UK. Emerging early in 2015, it has become the ‘must-try’ skincare trend of the year." New launches have also helped drive sales, with unit sales of facial masks up 22.3 per cent, reaching 187,000. The most popular products in the market includes Clarins’ Masque Baume Repulpant Multi-Intensif and Estée Lauder's Revitalising Supreme Global Anti-Aging Mask Boost. Jensen said: “The recent growth in the mask market demonstrates the role that beauty bloggers and Instagram influencers have on the sales of beauty products. Beauty consumers are increasingly turning to their peers for advice on products and take the lead of their online idols.”

“Oceanic” expansion for Chiva-Som Leading wellness resort Chiva-Som in Thailand has added 23 new rooms to the property. The new Ocean Rooms include 13 deluxe rooms, five premium rooms and one Anchan room and have been created by US architect Ed Tuttle. The new rooms have been designed with a clean, spacious look, using simple lines and contemporary interiors. The rooms feature a colour scheme that includes white and gold and the use of light-coloured wood. Chiva-Som, which this year celebrated 20 years in operation, has also renovated a number of suites, including the Patchouli suite, the two Champaka suites and the Leelawadee suite, which comes complete with its own whirlpool, garden and dining room. General manager Sheila McCann said: “The new decor is simple and elegant and these new rooms will allow us to provide the highest standard of services and comfort in a tailor-made environment.” Further renovations, the details of which have not yet been revealed, are planned for 2016.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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21 The month in numbers

Average treatment room occupancy

Insider beauty, hair and nails

How did the treatment business in December 2015 compare with December 2014?

58 20 22

% BETTER

% same

Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the easiest way to stay in the know

% WORSE

December As 2015 drew to a close, the salon sector by and large ended things on a positive note. Figures throughout the year have remained relatively consistent, but average treatment room occupancy and rebooking figures were particularly strong this month â&#x20AC;&#x201C; most likely a result of the festive season. Casting an eye towards 2016, we found out that quite a number of you have set out New Year's resolutions for your business, with social media among the key priorities in the year ahead. We also discovered that new product launches are among the key interests for you when visiting trade exhibitions.

Percentage of clients who rebooked

On the spot Which of these technological areas are you most interested in developing/improving in 2016? 1. Social media 2. Website 3. CRM 4. App for our business

planned to have New Year offers for clients

What is the most important element of the salon experience? 1. New product launches 2. Live demos 3. Access to industry information 4. Networking opportunities

have set New Year's resolutions for your business Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

insider

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23 The month in numbers

Average treatment room occupancy

Insider Spa Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

How did the treatment business in December 2015 compare with December 2014?

62 20 18

% better

% same

% worse

December 2015 has proved somewhat unpredictable, figures have scaled up and down over the year, and while December’s figures weren’t recordbreaking, they did present many positives. Rebooking rates, for one, were strong and year on year, most of you reported growth. Perhaps with plans in mind to continue galvanising these positive signs, an overwhelming majority of you have outlined New Year's resolutions for your business. Social media and website development also feature predominantly in your plans for the year. When you step away from your business to visit industry exhibitions, scouting for new products remains a priority.

Percentage of clients who rebooked

On the spot Which of these technological areas are you most interested in developing/improving in 2016? 1. Social media 2. Website 3. App for our business 4. CRM

planned to have New Year offers for your clients

What is the most important element of the spa experience? 1. New product launches 2. Live demos 3. Networking opportunities 4. Access to industry information

have set New Year's resolutions for your business Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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With soak-off gel now one of the most popular nail services available, Georgia Seago enlists an army of pros to troubleshoot the most common application issues Discolouration can occur when the pigment is not evenly distributed throughout the gel. Coloured gel should be stirred once a day when in use. Use a flat metal gel stirrer and take it right down to the bottom of the pot. Pull it across the bottom to lift all sunken pigment and fold it back up. Do not mix the gel in a circular motion, as this will create bubbles. Using an application brush that is too small for the nail bed will force you to apply more pressure, which can result in streaks. Move to a larger brush to release the pressure. Smaller brushes are good for smaller nails, bitten nails, and toes. Larger brushes should be used for average to large nail plates and extensions. Rectify a streaky finish by refining the nails with a soft sponge board then applying another layer of colour.

Carly Gilbert is a Bio Sculpture expert technician Favourite shade: Bio Sculpture Gel in Gorgeous Decay

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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gel polish

There are a few factors that may lead to under curing, resulting in stickiness even after wiping. Using a generic UV lamp that doesn’t produce sufficiently intense wavelengths to properly cure a specific formula will result in under curing, so use the correct lamp based on the manufacturer’s recommendations. If you notice that your product is stickier or cloudier than usual, change the bulb on your lamp immediately. You should clean bulbs regularly using a soft, clean cloth while the lamp is turned off. Make sure that your client’s hand is properly placed in the lamp, including their thumb, to ensure targeted exposure of light. Finally, avoid applying gel in thick layers to allow the product to cure properly and thoroughly. The thicker the layer the less efficient the cure, as thinner layers allow more light to penetrate the gel.

Nataliya Al-ta’ai is CND education team ambassador Favourite shade: CND Shellac in Field Fox

The nature of a gel is to retract back when placed on a surface, causing shrinkage. This is magnified when the gel is mixed with solvents such as ethyl and buthyl acetate, which thin the gel polish down and give it its smooth, runny texture. Whether shrinkage occurs also depends on the temperature of the room you are working in and the client’s body temperature. If you’re working in a hot environment, keep your product in the fridge or work under an airconditioning unit. Shrinkage is also more likely when the application is too thick. To avoid this, choose a pure gel or a gel with a very low solvent content (read the label and do the sniff test). Finally, remember to apply more thin coats if you need to, or choose a highly pigmented product for full coverage.

Steven Rhys-Wells is Cuccio creative director Favourite shade: Cuccio Colour Veneer in I Left my Heart in San Francisco

This could be attributed to a number of different causes. The top coat may not have been cured for long enough. Every layer of colour needs to be cured and dried thoroughly before applying top coat, otherwise it won’t set and will lack shine. Similarly, if nails are not prepped thoroughly, this will result in the layers of gel not curing. Another possibility is that the client’s nail plate has too much moisture, in which case use of pure acetone will help dry the nails. Post-treatment, the use of chemicals such as alcohol, acetone and anything abrasive will affect the shine of a gel manicure, so advise clients to wear gloves when using strong chemicals at home to keep their manicure shiny. Ensure nails are properly prepped, don’t apply thick coats of product and make sure you cure the nails for the recommended time.

Kruti Ghandi is education manager for Essie Professional UK Favourite shade: Essie Gel Nail Color in Deep Pockets.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Visit us at Professional Beauty GCC 1st and 2nd of February 2016 at Meydan on stand number T15

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29 The main reason for gel polish lifting is incorrect application of base coat. If it is not applied thinly and evenly to the entire nail plate, the gel colour may only adhere to the areas where the base coat has been applied, causing the colour to lift. Cap the free edge of the nail when applying each gel layer in thin coats. Before application, check that the nail plate preparation has been carried out according to the proper method recommended by the manufacturer, and that all cuticle has been removed from the nail plate. For customers with a shiny, oily or flaky nail plate, buff gently with a grit smoother. Incorrect curing may also be a cause of lifting, so make sure you cure each hand for the recommended time at the end of each layer.

Bryony McMillan is an OPI educator and member of the OPI A Team Favourite shade: OPI Gel Color in OPI Red

If removal is taking longer than it should, the base gel might have been applied too thickly. Failing this, have you buffed the surface properly before attempting to remove it? You need to break the seal of the topcoat to allow the soak-off solution to penetrate and start the breakdown of the product. Use a 180 file for this. Warming the client’s hands can speed things up; apply your soak-off solution in the normal way then slip on a pair of heated mitts and the gel polish will fall off when removing. With longer nails you may find the gel polish comes off easily from the warm nail plate but won’t budge on the free edge, so give it a little longer to soak in this area. Use a wooden hoof stick but do not prise product from the nail as this will cause damage. Instead, re-wrap and soak for a minute or two longer.

Beverley Rose is a Nail Harmony PhD master educator Favourite shade: Gelish colour in Black Shadow

Wrinkling occurs when gels are applied too thickly and the LED or UV lamp cannot penetrate through the layers to cure them, so make a note to change the bulbs in a UV lamp every 500 hours or six months. Concentrate on the way you prime the nails and apply the layers, making sure the side walls, free edge and the area near the cuticles are covered. If using a prescriptive base coat, apply a thin square in the centre of the nail, leaving a perimeter so the gel can adhere around the edges. With each subsequent layer of product, cap the free edge to completely seal, and use three thin coats of colour rather than two thick. If you’re unsure whether a gel is cured, cure for an extra 30 seconds (LED) or 120 seconds (UV). If a nail is still wrinkled there’s nothing you can do to rectify it apart from start again.

Alyson Trueman is a Jessica educator Favourite shade: Geleration in Blue Aria

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

nail and make-up trends

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30 NEW METALLICS

NAIL STYLES Metallics and embellishments gave a high shine to nails, matching the standout trend for gold eye make-up and glossy skin. CND were truly going for gold at The Blonds show, with heavily bejewelled nails to match the gold clothes and make-up. The CND Design Lab Team hand-sculpted the nails and embellishments with liquid and powder and Brisa Gel, then added layers of colour with Shellac, Vinylux and Additives. To complement the sequin and lace at Rodarte, nail artist Miss Pop used OPI created metallic accents on a vintage look by using silvery Glitzerland polish for a reverse French, then softening the effect with a custom-blended sheer peach-toned top coat. Meanwhile at Sibling, Orly created a gilded French using black, powder blue or candy pink as a base and contrasting with its gold Tinsel Town Epix polish on the free edge.

TREND

Distressed finish Usually more prevalent as an autumn/winter trend, dark distressed, grungy looks were out in force on the s/s16 catwalks and nails were no exception. From the matte indigo finish OPI gave to models at Rag & Bone in New York to the sultry black at Ethologie by Jasper Garvida (created using Jessica's black creme Velvet & Pearls polish) in London, nails remained dark and edgy for the lighter months. One of the most striking effects of the season was created by the Jessica Hands On Team at Eudon Choi, where metallic grey Sterling Queen was messily painted on the centre of the nail then given a scratched, distressed finish using a cuticle stick before being sealed with No Shine Matte Finish top coat.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Gold, aqua, pretty pinks and high-gloss skin dominated the catwalks at the spring/summer 2016 shows. Eve Oxberry uncovers the on-trend looks for next season

Subtle graphics While nudes and pastels dominated, plenty of nail art was also in evidence on the spring/summer catwalks. Graphic designs were kept subtle in two contrasting colours. At Ji Oh in New York, Rita Remark kept the graphic to a simple single or double fine stripe down each nail using Essie. Orly also created some interesting but subtle graphics in London, both at Markus Lupfer, where a reverse French was finished with a small triangular shard of silver foil at the base, and also at Fyodor Golan, where reverse French was given a completely different treatment using the new Color Amp'd line. Powder blue City of Angels was used as a fresh alternative to a nude base while tips were finished with neon orange Sunset Strip, which was applied very finely at the tip and thicker along the side walls for a pointed finish.

nail and make-up trends

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31 Make-up and skin Blue is set to be the standout accent colour for spring, used in subtle ways to highlight pared back eyes. At Marc Jacobs, Nars applied it messily to the inner corner of the top lid and paired with messy liner for a painterly effect. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, it was used as a liner to highlight the outer edge of the top lid and inner edge of the bottom, while at Hugo Boss it was painted across the full top lid, both standing out against a barely-there base. At Jonathan Simkhai, a pale blue was used to line the waterline of the lower lid, brightening the eyes.

Blue mood

TALK

Dewy skin was a popular as ever but the recent trend for strobing also meant highshine skin was taken to the extreme on the spring/summer catwalks. St Tropez previewed its Self Tan Luxe Oil Spray, which will launch to salons in February 2016, was at shows including Sophia Webster and Julien Macdonald. At the latter, skin-finisher Jules Heptonstall gave models an all-over sheen for a wet-look finish. At Chiara Boni, Aveda paired glistening skin with a bright pink lip, while at Rag & Bone a strobing effect and a heavy brow dominated the face, with the rest of the make-up kept simple.

Graphic twist

Graphic liner is now a standard technique in any make-up artist's repertoire but this season's catwalk shows gave it a new treatment with designs migrating to the lower lids and using colour as well as black to create striking effects. At Jeremy Scott, spiked lower-lid designs created an animated babydoll look, while the wow lashes at Thomas Tait also accented the lower lid for a heavy finish and at Zang Toi accented lower lids finished in a classic flick. Colour came into play at Victor Alforo where canary yellow or white shadows were applied in sharp lines for a summerready graphic winged edge.

High gloss

Gilded edge Gold is set to be the colour of the season for make-up, with gold leaf, glitter, appliquĂŠ foils and metallic shadows all in evidence on the recent catwalks. Creatures of the Wind used the gold trend with graphic liner, painting a heavily glittered lid with a sharp liner flick. The Blonds went bold on gold with stick-on foils. At Marissa Webb, metallics were used in a far more subtle way, accenting the inner eye and blending out into a deep purple shadow. Ethologie by Jasper Garvida used gold leaf, again accenting the inner eye for a brightened, wide-eyed finish, while Fyodor Golan took it across the whole top lid.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Visit us at Professional Beauty GCC 1st and 2nd of February 2016 at Meydan on stand number D11

OfďŹ cial distributor of Nashi Argan Brand in the GCC Region

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Ask the Experts

Our beauty experts answer your questions on every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business What’s the best way to detox a client’s hair and why does hair need a detox, particularly post-party season?

he party season will always play havoc on your hair. All the curling, straightening, hair up, hair down, hair products to stiffen, add volume, add shine, etc, is bound to take its toll on the tresses. My clients often come into the salon in January with dry, limp, overloaded locks that haven’t seen any care and attention since the beginning of the party season. So before I proceed with colour touch ups and cuts I recommend a hair detox using one of a number of different products or at-home remedies. Detoxing the hair is just like detoxing the body. We absorb so many toxins every day and anything with that much product build-up just needs to be regularly cleansed and refreshed. And just like the body, we have to get to the core of the problem, which isn’t necessarily the hair shaft. More often than not, it’s the scalp. Most professionals will be aware that our scalp is living and breathing, while our hair strands are dead. So why do we spend so much time, energy and products on our hair and neglect the reason why we have it in the first place; it grows from the scalp. Shampooing alone won’t cleanse the scalp deeply enough to get rid of all the build up. Hair products that we use daily will clog pores by creating build up on top of accumulated dead skin, which can cause dull, greasy hair, and slow hair growth. Needless to say, if you pile on product after product, it’s going to make the scalp dry and itchy. When it gets to this stage, it’s time to detox.

Some detoxes come in the form of a shampoo, others come as more of a treatment, which removes the oil and dirt build up from your hair. When it comes to detoxing there is no need to put more chemicals onto the scalp, which is why I believe in 100 per cent natural detox products. The mariadowling Hair & Scalp Detox is a natural clay product that you apply to the scalp and leave on for 20 minutes. Because it’s made up of soothing and healing aromatherapy oils, it neutralises irritated scalps and heals any damage caused by overuse of products and external toxins. I’ve also found that my detox product is great for teens with scalp problems due to hormones that can cause dandruff and oiliness. The detox can remedy the problem without compromising the condition of the hair. While the mariadowling Hair & Scalp Detox is available to use at home as well as in-salon, there are some natural detoxes you can suggest your clients make at home using simple “kitchen cupboard” products. A rinse of baking soda and water, followed by diluted apple cider vinegar has a detoxifying effect. The baking soda has cleansing properties, while the vinegar and water mix helps to balance the hair and scalp pH levels, kills the bacteria that cause dandruff and itchy scalps and gives the hair extra shine. So if a client is suffering from hair that is unmanageable, limp and irritated this month, I will certainly be recommending a detox. When the scalp and hair follicles are properly cleansed, nourished and cared for, they give way to healthy growth and hair that recovers its vitality and beauty easily.

Maria Dowling is the Creative Director of mariadowling salon and has been in hairdressing for more than 20 years.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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What benefit do thermal experiences bring a spa?

or avid spa-goers, having access to a good wet area in a spa is essential to ensuring they get their “wellness fix” in a peaceful environment. Over the last few years new concepts have evolved including shower experiences with sound, light, scents and a variety of knobs and nozzles that deliver different temperatures and pressures that encourage an increase in circulation and vitality. Taking an approach that focuses on hot and cold temperatures creates a healthy pump for the lymphatic system and blood circulation, which ensures constant movement of fluids in the body. This prevents a sluggish flow throughout the body, which can cause toxins and waste to build up. Shower experiences can also target sore and achy muscles and joints with specific change in pressures to increase circulation and toxin removal. Saunas have reinvented themselves offering salt rock therapy, which is good for inhalation and absorption into the skin, aiding microcirculation. These claim to assist in aiding respiratory problems or allergies, which are an ongoing problem these days with exposure to environmental pollutants. It also adds a wonderful look and feel that complements the area. Another new trend for saunas is the infrared sauna where heat penetrates deep into the body to help raise the core temperature of the body. Known for

their health benefits infrared saunas are good for detoxification, pain relief and even weight loss as they deliver a heat which is not as intense yet penetrates deeper, ensuring we can stay in them for longer periods. Steam inhalations have mainly evolved with their look and feel and perhaps even some new creative scents. The ceilings are lined with starry lights providing better relaxation for the guest and combined with other elements such as ice producing machines to keep guests cooler whilst inside. Having a plunge pool within the wet area has proven to benefit not only an increase in circulation but also the healing of muscles and joints sore from exercise. This is extremely beneficial in fitness areas and is often underused and misunderstood by guests. The combination of all these different elements within the spa, along with the healing hands of your therapists, will provide the wellness experience that guests want. It is helpful to have information up around the experiences to educate the guests on how to utilise the facilities best. Understanding the clientele you are attracting and the key philosophies behind your spa will help you decide what elements you need to suit your guests’ needs. Finding a space to put it all in these days is another story!

Lindsay Madden-Nadeau is the global director of spa operations and integrations for FRHI, the parent-company of luxury hotel brands Raffles Hotels & Resorts, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts and Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts. Madden-Nadeau was previously regional spa director for MSPA International and director of spa and wellness at Talise Spa at Madinat Jumeirah (Dubai).

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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How do organic tanning products differ from other forms of tanning products and what are the benefits to clients in using them?

ore and more people are becoming aware of, and concerned with, the amount of chemicals cosmetic products contain and, more importantly, what those chemicals might be doing to their bodies. A study conducted by the University of Pittsburg School of Public Health found that up to 64 per cent of what we put on our skin could be absorbed into our bloodstream. Identifying organic products can, however, be a challenge. In Europe, for example, organic is a term defined and certified only for food use meaning the term can be added to practically anything outside this realm, including beauty products and make-up, even if they only contain a tiny percentage of organic ingredients. Often products claiming to be natural still contain parabens or synthetic ingredients. Many well-known cosmetics brands use synthetic preservatives like parabens in their products. Parabens have been known to cause allergic reactions for a long time. With tanning products in particular, the tan will stay on the skin for 7-10 days so you need to make sure that the tan you are using is a safe and natural product. One of the best ways to identify or debunk natural or organic claims is to look at the ingredients.

TanOrganic, for instance, is an all-natural and organic self-tanning solution that is made with 84 per cent aloe vera. Additionally TanOrganic is the first and only aloe vera-based self-tanner in the world to be Eco-certified. Eco-certification will not be given to a product that contains GMOs, parabens, phenoxyethanol and ingredients derived from petrochemicals or synthetic chemistry. This means that all aspects of the tan â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from seed to bottle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; are organic. A list of all the ingredients in the products are given alongside a definition of what they are, proving the brand has nothing to hide. TanOrganic is also certified by PETA, The Organic Trust, The Ethical Company Organisation and The Vegan Society to name but a few. Aloe vera, meanwhile, is proven to reduce water loss from the outer layer of our skin and also increase the growth of keratin, which is is the key structural material making up the epidermis. TanOrganic also contains no drying agents; this means that the skin will be left hydrated and moisturised, unlike traditional tans that can leave the skin dry and result in the tan cracking and fading in patches. These are key benefits to anyone using or applying the product.

Ruth Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connell is the distributor for TanOrganic UAE in the Middle East.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

1- 2 FEBRUARY 2016 THE Meydan, Dubai

Exclusively for your beauty, hair and spa business The must attend event for your profession

Save AED100, register now at www.professionalbeauty.ae Quote promo code: PB17

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Professional Beauty 2016

Show’s on the road The Professional Beauty GCC exhibition returns next month. Here’s the inside scoop on what to expect…

he Professional Beauty GCC exhibition is back for a second year – and this year it boasts a bigger exhibition space featuring even more brands and products, a beauty conference, two live stages and a nail competition. Taking place in parallel to the exhibition is the Professional Spa and Wellness Convention, which

is also returning following its successful regional debut last year. The exhibition space will be home to a wide collection of the region’s leading beauty, hair, nail and servicerelated companies, many of whom will be showcasing new product launches and providing exclusive show offers to visitors.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

PARA SPA SPA

PRODUCTS

Professional Beauty 2016

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45 Alongside the opportunity to network and discuss products and product developments, visitors to the show will also be able to watch a series of demonstrations on the live stage. Hair, nails, skincare and business advice will be dispensed during the demos. The new Beauty Conference will combine panel discussions and presentations on a variety of insightful and engaging business topics, from tips on marketing your salon and growing your business to advice on retailing and social media; participants will benefit from the wealth of knowledge delivered by brand ambassadors and respected industry speakers. Nail technicians, meanwhile, will have the opportunity to show off their creative skills, artistic flair and precision techniques in the nail competitions, which will be running across the two days. Each category winner will receive a trophy and certificate. The Professional Spa and Wellness Convention is bringing together regional and international spa professionals to discuss a wide range of industry issues – from the latest trends and best practises to budgeting and revenue generation. The convention is a mustattend event for spa professionals looking to enhance their knowledge and network with fellow professionals. See the full programme on pages 58-59.

Making the most of the show • •

•

Pre-register for the show, this will save time on the actual day(s) of attendance. Make a plan of who you want to visit and why – and if possible pre-arrange meetings with them ahead of the show. Decide ahead of time which seminar or conference sessions you want to attend and where possible purchase tickets in advance too. Pack plenty of business cards and don’t be shy to introduce yourself or take advantage of any networking opportunities.

Nail Competition Monday 1 February: Nail Art Competition • Photographic (handed in) • Tip Box (handed in) • Mixed Media Theme: Cinderella Perfect Polish • Gel polish manicure – French and red Tuesday 2 February: Tip Overlay Competition (Liquid and Powder/Gel) • Novice • Intermediate Sculpting Competition (Liquid and Powder/Gel) • Novice • Professionals See the competition pack and how to register at: www.professionalbeauty.ae/compete

First 10 people to book gets 50 per cent off using code: BCH2

Key Information Date: 1-2 February 2016 Timings: 10am-6pm (both days) Location: The Meydan, Dubai

Getting there:

Just 15 minutes drive from the airport and Downtown Dubai, the easiest way to reach the Meydan is by car or taxi. Ample parking spaces are available at the location; follow the signs to the parking space when you reach the venue. Tickets: Register for free online at www.professionalbeauty.ae/register or pay AED100 for entry on the day. NEW PB Gold upgrade now available. Enhance your visit for just AED180 www.professionalbeauty.ae/gold First 100 readers using discount code BSC1 can get a whopping 75 per cent off the Beauty Conference

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Professional Beauty 2016

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47 Exhibitor highlights

Beauty Profit Supply: Is featuring a collection

The exhibition is jam-packed with a spectacular array of cutting edge and market-leading brands from the region’s most respected distributors, solution providers and training houses. Here’s a few highlights of what they will have in store for show visitors:

of innovative brands including Balsan, which will be showcasing its new Hand and Foot Care Callus Lotion, among other products, Promed, Busch and Star Design. CCO Nail Gel is also debuting at the show, its Rainbow Gel Polish requires no drying time, is healthy, eco-friendly and natural. Futhermore, it promises long-lasting results, with no wrinkling, shrinking or chipping off.

AVPT Global University: AVPT is launching a Portable Face Mask Spa for making bespoke natural face masks. It is suitable for beauty training schools, specialist spas, mobile services, trade and retailers. It will also be debuting the Eryca Freemantle brand at the show and offering visitors a 20 per cent discount on AVPT Global University Masterclass courses.

Stand: J1

Beauty Leaders: Home to a wealth of brands including Charme d'Orient, Vie, Silhouet-Tone, Living Earth Crafts, Earthlite, Touch America, Ellipse, Fenix Group, Unbescheiden GMBH, Palladium Design, Universal Companies, Taiji, Rigo Spa, 3A Beaute-Thermal Products and Rigo Spa, Beauty Leaders’ stand is also showcasing a number of new and exciting products and brands too. Fleurs is making its debut at that exhibition, a unique floral brand it pays tribute to nature’s treasures and offers a wide range of skin and body care products with effective floral ingredients. Fellow new brand Camylle, meanwhile, consists of 100 per cent pure and natural essential oils. Phytomer is debuting its new Phytomer Morpho Designer products, which acts on three dimensions: contouring, firmness and hydration. Another newcomer from Beauty Leaders, Pattrena is showcasing its collection of pure and natural aromatherapy massage oils with a selection of scents to provide customisation for signature aromatherapy massages. Arose Herbal is entering the market as a specialist in herbal products, including herbal pillows. Alongside presenting its uniforms Noel Asmar is also presenting its new collection of lightweight, portable resin manicure and pedicure bowls and dishes.

Stand: D5

Stand: S15

Bonanza International General Trading: A visit to this stand introduces brands including Panama Jack's suncare and tanning oils, Envix - a Brazilian hair mask, Bloxsun, a provider of protective gloves and scarves and Argan Woman and its collection hair care products.

Stand: B5

Chelsea Beautique: Chelsea Beautique is bringing its collection of eyelash and eyebrow solutions to this year’s show. Among its key products are the 3D Mascara and Fiber Lash Kit and its amazing Essential Brow products.

Stand: V4

Connection Zone Middle East: BioFade is joining NAK Hair and Newsha on Connection Zone’s stand. NAK Hair, making its debut at the show, is demonstrating its signature range that contains natural mineral elements from the sea. Newsha, also launching at the show, has a specially designed collection of products that bring a new level of luxury into the hair salon.

Stand: G19

Enigma Beauty Group: Alessandro is showasing its collection of innovative, high quality products, tools and seasonal collections that offer the best for a woman’s hands, feet and nails! KLAPP Cosmetics is presenting its cuttingedge cosmetic treatments at the show, developed for different skin types and skin conditions, the range is available for face and body application.

Stands: E5 & T5

Fashionizer: Fashionizer is bringing its high-quality and stylish uniforms including the Azla Jacket and Linen-rich collection to the exhibition.

Stand: B19

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Professional Beauty 2016

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48 Gharieni Middle East: The Gharieni Group offers

Heaven Health & Beauty Ltd:

high-end spa tables, beds, equipment and furniture for luxurious spas, wellness and beauty facilities and is showcasing its enterprising and ground - breaking products and designs.

Two key brands are presenting here: Heaven Skincare and London Lash and Brows by Heaven. The former is showcasings its skincare products that are based exclusively on natural ingredients, not tested on animals, and are free of “harsh” chemicals. Its latest launch, the Super Antiageing Age Defiance Cream, is among the highlights. Making its debut at the show, London Lash and Brow by Heaven offers a range of quality organic based products.

Stand: A15

Gloss Academy: The facility is offering one lucky salon the opportunity to bring up to eight staff for a day of free, intensive training with renowned educator Deborah Whitehead. This one-day education package, worth in excess of AED 10,000 includes access to the unique City&Guilds MHD Academy e-learning tool, responsible for delivering 99 per cent of Gloss’s students into paid employment. Visit the stand with your business card to enter. Winner will be announced on the HJ Live Stage by Michel Zeytoun on Tuesday 2 February.

Stand: V19

Go'shay Trading: This stand is home to RevitaLash Cosmetics, a premier lash, brow, hair, and skinperfecting beauty enhancement expert.

Stand: T22

Stand: B11

House of Maria Dowling: Discover a great selection of brands at this stand, including mariadowling and its complete collection of hair styling and hair care essentials, essentials. Pañpuri’s skincare products and luxury gifts, exclusive spa creations for aromatherapy and massage, are all are based on ancient Eastern traditions of natural remedies for the betterment of the body, mind and soul. Also to be found here are YUTHIKA and its quality natural Thai spa products, which are based on ancient healing traditions and herbal remedies, and Puri Alchemy, a leading luxury spa and aromatherapy products company, that provides complete support throughout the intricate process of developing unique skincare, personal care, and home fragrance products. Stand: G11 Jeunesse Global: Jeunesse Global, a leader in anti-

H2E2: This new company, and platinum sponsor of the PSWC 2016, offers a holistic range of solutions that manage the entire lifecycle of launching a wellness business, from concept to implementation. It will also help existing market players reach the right suppliers or brands, and the biggest possible audience in terms of customers. Meet the team and gain advice at its stand.

Stand: F5 and T19

ageing skincare and supplements, is presenting its key products including Jeunesse Global Ambassador pack, Jeunesse Founders pack, and Jeunesse Jumbo pack.

Stand: B24

LPG: LPG is returning to the exhibition this year and is once again demonstrating its natural and noninvasive beauty solutions. Stand: D11

Professional Beauty GCC Januray 2016

Professional Beauty 2016

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51 Madi International: Depileve, Goldwell, Kevin Murphy, LCN, Nashi and Thalgo are the leading brands being presented by Madi International. Depileve is showcasing its expertise and experiences in the most advanced waxing techniques, together with its innovating stripless waxing solution. Goldwell is demonstrating its excellence in hair care - profiliing its leading colour, texturiser, hair care and styling products. Kevin Murphy meanwhile is presenting its skin and hair care products which are sulphate free, paraben free and cruelty free. Also in the haircare arena, Nashi Argan is a line of simple, elegant and effective products that enable women to maintain the beauty of their hair. Nail specialist LCN is showcasing its resilient and durable nail cosmetics, while Thalgo is launching its first professional cosmeceutical range; M - Ceutic. The brand is underscored by Thalgo's marine - centred ingredient philosophy, with a potent combination of algae extracts.

Stands: T1 & R2

Meddrop Middle East: Meddrop Middle East is introducing for the first time the world's first non-invasive and needle-free skin rejuvenation treatment that truly penetrates the skin. Visitors can enjoy a complimentary treatment during the exhibition.

Oliyah Joseph Beauty and Training Centre: Biotek permanent make-up and products are being showcased on this stand. Sophisticated and high performance make-up machines are also available.

Stand: M21 Pevonia: Pevonia is debuting three new products: Youth-Renew Tinted Cream, LipRenew, and the Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Body Line. Youth-Renew Tinted Cream is an age-defying and wrinkle smoothing formula with immediate brightening results. LipRenew increases lip volume and smoothes lip contour. The Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Body Line tones, brightens and hydrates skin. Product discounts are also available during the show. Stand: F11 Pinnacle Star Trading: See Poya Organics and its range of products including retail skincare, personal care and therapeutic essential oils. Poya Organics is also launching the Turkish Mud range.

Stand: C25 Reino Cosmetics: This stand is home to Germaine de Capuccini and the brand is launching new products from the Timexpert and Sperience lines. Timexpert Lift is an anti-ageing product, while Sperience is an exquisite product range that brings together the best of nature for exceptional rituals and massages. Stand: A19 REM UK: REM is Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest manufacturer of hairdressing, beauty and spa equipment and is bringing three new products to the exhibition. Stand: W15

neuLASH: Visit this stand to discover neuLASH, a nutrient-rich formula that dramatically improves the weak appearance of eyelashes in just 30 days, resulting in longer and fuller looking lashes.

Sawaya: This stand is packed with fabulous brands including Provoc, Harmony and Gelish, Morgan Taylor, Orly and Clashes. Provoc is showcasing its exciting range of high quality lashes and make-up, including semi-permanent gel pencils, Gelish meanwhile is presenting six stunning shades of red. Morgan Taylor is introducing its floral nail colours at the exhibition, including six lavish new colours from the Winter Garden Collection, Orly is launching two new collections: Infamous and Orly EPIX. The former consists of liquid night tones, while the latter is a long-wearing formula with smudge-free technology. Alongside its quality lashes, Clashes is also presenting its newly launched lower-lid and brow extensions.

Stand: R21

Stands: V5 & W5

Stand: D18

My App-titude: Experience demos of My Apptitude, an APP training platform which includes spa and wellness courses and workshops, created for individuals and companies to self-educate and selfmotivate.

Stand: H19

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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Professional Beauty 2016

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53 Spa Resources International: Elemis is presenting three new products during the show including the Elemis Skin Brightening System that helps to target skin discolouration and irregularities, while helping to prevent the appearance of new dark spots. It is also showcasing its cult product, the Pro-Collagen and Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, which is packed with high performance and active, natural ingredients. Its light gel texture absorbs quickly and gets to work straight away. Subscribe to Professional Beauty magazine at the exhibition and receive 20 per cent off a year’s print subscription and a special gift from Elemis.

Stand: J7 The Beauty Co: This stand is showcasing a collection of brands including Nubea, which is launching a scalp and hair solution Nubea Solenium; Spalinea, which is launching a new spa treatment; Kahraman. Nubea is a brand that have an entire range of products that are made out of only natural essential oils and plant extrcts.

the skin, providing weightless, instant hydration. Another recent addition to the regional market, Omorovicza is presenting its unique collection of products, including the Blue Diamond Super Cream which is debuting at the show. Terres d’Afrique’s organic skincare range uses traditional African plants and takes a holistic approach to spa treatments and is once again profiling these at the show, while Voya is displaying its organic and botanically sourced products.

Stands: E19 & F19

Stand: S5 The Perfect Look Center:

Nanogen, Mineral Aqua Mud Foam and Magnifibres are showcasing their product expertise on this stand. Mineral Aqua Mud Foam is enriched with 29 types of dead sea minerals and will detox and hydrate skin, while Magnifibres helps to create a stunning false lash effect in seconds.

Stand: S9 The Product House: A collection of innovative and high-quality brands, including several newly - launched ones, are being showcased across these stands. Carol Joy, Kerstin Florian, Omorovicza, Terres d’Afrique, Dr Burgener and Voya are presenting their advanced and sought-after product collections. Newcomer Carol Joy is presenting its transformative beauty products, while Kerstin Florian is profiling its cuttingedge skincare, beauty, wellness and spa products including its new BerryPlus Repair Serum which naturally nourishes

Unique Line Trading: On display are three new products from Crystal Keratin Treatments: Crystal Express, Crsytal HB and Crystal and Argan Oil. Stand: S14 Vivandi Trading:

Alongside launching its latest brand: Rock Your Hair, Vivandi is also presenting Malibu C, Toppik, Salon in a Bottle and Revivogen Pro. Rock Your Hair promises to deliver big volume and endless styling capabilities combining ingredient technologies that protect and repair hair from damage brought on by flat irons and chemical processes. Malibu C’s 100 per cent vegan products that are also free from gluten, sulphates, paraben, preservatives and fragrances are also on display. Other highlights on the stand include Toppik’s Hair Building Fibres that are made of coloured keratin protein and blend with existing hair strands, Salon in a Bottle’s quick and easy spray to cover grey hair and Revivogen’s medically-based, natural solution for fine and thinning hair.

Stand: G5

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

GCC

For your beauty, hair and spa business November 2014

For your beauty, hair and spa business

Getting noticed

How to wow potential employers

Scent of success

Aromatherapy to boost your business

GCC

Lights, camera, action! Creating a successful hair shoot

art attack

Top nails techs get creative in our nail art special

Read the latest issue online at www.professionalbeauty.ae To guarantee the print edition to your door each month, subscribe for just AED125 per year. A year subscription guarantees 10 printed issues + the buyers guide.

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Professional Beauty 2016

55 Live Stages For engaging, interactive and informative demonstrations, be sure to check out the live stages taking place across the two days. One stage is dedicated to all things beauty, while the other provides a platform for all things hair. Both are free to attend with the beauty stage offering a line-up of beauty, make-up and nail showcases, while the new Hair stage – exclusively by Hairdressers Journal – will present catwalk shows and demonstrations.

Beauty Stage Programme DAY 1 - MONDAY 1 FEBRUARY

DAY 2 - TUESDAY 2 FEBRUARY

10:15 H2E2 launch press-conference Fady Tawfik, co-founder and head of operations, H2E2

10:15 Reshaping the Wellness Industry Fady Tawfik, co-founder and head of operations, H2E2

11:00 Malibu C Skin Wellness Line / Malibu C Wellness Beauty Collection Zahra Darwish, vice president of sales, Vivandi

11:00 Embracing all tones of Women Eryca Freemantle, global beauty ambassador and industry intelligence strategist

11:45 How to set up a Hair and Beauty Training Academy Diane Shawe, chief executive officer, AVPT

11:45 Youth revealing pioneer treatment Beverley Gautschi, sales manager, Beauty Leaders. Emma Cobb, senior product educator, Phytomer

12:30 M Ceutic Radical Renovation Mireille bou Hamdan, M Ceutic, Thalgo 13:15 New brand launch: Fleurs 1001 Flowers Radiance moisturising beauty treatment Beverley Gautschi, sales manager, Beauty Leaders. Emma Cobb, senior product educator, Fleurs

12:30 M Ceutic Radical Renovation Mireille bou Hamdan, M Ceutic, Thalgo 13:15 When training becomes second nature your business will flourish Deborah Mitchell, owner, Heaven Skincare

14:00 4th Generation Waxing Systems Paola Frizzarin, international trainer, Depileve

14:00 4th generation waxing system Paola Frizzarin, international trainer, Depileve

14:45 L-Therapy Photo youth beauty treatment from Vie Collection Beverley Gautschi, sales manager, Beauty Leaders, Boriana Haidar, sales executive and educator, Vie Collection

14:45 Jeunesse Youth Enhancement System Jackie Carroll and Karen Fitzsimons, global leaders and business owners, Jeunesse

15:30 Live demo on how to apply Crystal Keratin Treatment Samir Safi, professional trainer at Unique Line Trading

15:30 Timexpert Lift work method and face massage Viktorya Gracheva, trainer for Germaine de Capuccini (UAE), member of ISAPS

16:15 Live nail art demo Anastasia Morozova, master champion nail artist

16:15 The benefits of essential oils for your spa Darshana Mehra, business development manager, Poya

17:00 Biofade Cosmeceuticals introduces new brands

17:00 SEYO: Treat your skin like a VIP Dr Roozbeh Qodratnama, head of Innovation, Meddrop

Marina-anne Pazvadis, brand manager and regional educator, Connection Zone

17:30 Nail Masters Day Two 2016 winners announced

17:30 Nail Masters Day 0ne 2016 winners announced

Beauty Conference Making its debut at this year’s show the Beauty Conference has been carefully curated based on feedback from Professional Beauty readers. Featuring a series of 45-minute sessions covering a host of insightful business topics, their aim is to provide practical solutions for your beauty business. Each day will conclude with a panel discussion focusing on key issues facing the industry. The panel discussion will feature a number of brand ambassadors participating in this year’s show including Maria Dowling, Ruksher Malik, Salina Handa, Tara Roux, Galina Spierling, Jamilla Paul and Mona Syed-Mirza. Sessions can be booked individually (limited seats available) at AED60 per session. First 100 readers using discount code BSC1 can get a whopping 75 per cent off the Beauty Conference www.professionalbeauty.ae/education

DAY 1 - MONDAY 1 FEBRUARY

DAY 2 - TUESDAY 2 FEBRUARY

11:00 - 11:45 What, when and how to post on social media to sell more treatments and products Catherine Trebble MBA, social media expert and teacher

11:00 - 11:45 10 ways to grow your business and plan for the year ahead Maria Dowling, creative director, Mariadowling Salon

12:00 - 12:45 20 top tips to get clients flooding in and stop cash flowing out of your business Susan Routledge, business strategies and systems, award winning salon owner, author and business consultant

12:00 - 12:45 Marketing your salon or spa to a GCC audience Marina Golovkova, marketing, social media and business development professional

13:00 - 13:45 How to create business minded therapists Michelle Saudan, senior therapist/master trainer, Jumeirah Group, Talise Ottoman Spa 14:00 - 14:45 Best kept retail sales secrets revealed Pete Scott, performance coach and sales expert 15:00 - 15:45 How to get free PR and run successful events and promotions with little or no cash outlay Susan Routledge, business strategies and systems, award winning salon owner, author and business consultant

13:00 - 13:45 How to inspire your team to peak performance Jean Pierre De Villiers, peak performance strategist 14:00 - 14:45 How to close retail sales with 9 out of 10 clients Pete Scott, performance coach and sales expert 15:00 - 15:45 How to react to negativity/ bad reviews on social media Catherine Trebble MBA, social media expert and teacher 16:00 - 16:45 Highlight PANEL: Salon Management -

what to do when things are tough

16:00 - 16:45 Highlight

PANEL: Regional trends - what's hot and what's not Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Professional Beauty 2016

professionalbeauty.ae

HJ Hair Stage Programme DAY 1 - MONDAY 1 FEBRUARY 11:00 Goldwell Styling and Colouring Claude Al Hacheche, senior professional educator, Goldwell Amal Abdel Hadi, professional educator, Goldwell Fadi Kordab, professional educator, Goldwell 11:35 Angelo Vallillo Presentation Angelo Vallillo, international stylist, Sebastian International global art team member, Wella Trendvision winner

12:30 Tracey Devine Hair Show (accolades include Scottish Hairdresser of The Year, Men's Hairdresser of the year) Tracey Devine, Affinage's global ambassador

13:30 Goldwell Styling and Colouring Claude Al Hacheche, senior professional educator, Goldwell Amal Abdel Hadi, professional educator, Goldwell Fadi Kordab, professional educator, Goldwell

14:00 The Jewel Bar Jamilla Paul, brand director, Glamour Salons UAE and international award-winning hair artist, creator of Jewel Bar Swarovski crystal hair embellishments and seasoned platform artist for over 20 years

14:30 Revive Hair Enhancement Demo Mr Amin Sheybani, chief executive officer and founder of Vivandi Trading and Vivandi Trichology Center

15:00 Goldwell Styling and Colouring Claude Al Hacheche, senior professional educator, Goldwell Amal Abdel Hadi, professional educator, Goldwell Fadi Kordab, professional educator, Goldwell

15:30 The Gloss Collection Michel Zeytoun, Gloss Academy ambassador

DAY 2 - TUESDAY 2 FEBRUARY 11:00 Goldwell Styling and Colouring Claude Al Hacheche, senior professional educator, Goldwell Amal Abdel Hadi, professional educator, Goldwell Fadi Kordab, professional educator, Goldwell 11:30 Angelo Vallillo Presentation Angelo Vallillo, international stylist, Sebastian International global art team member, Wella Trendvision winner 13:30 Goldwell Styling and Colouring Claude Al Hacheche, senior professional educator, Goldwell Amal Abdel Hadi, professional educator, Goldwell Fadi Kordab, professional educator, Goldwell 14:00 The Jewel Bar Jamilla Paul, brand director, Glamour Salons UAE and international award-winning hair artist, creator of Jewel Bar Swarovski crystal hair embellishments and seasoned platform artist for over 20 years 14:30 Revive Hair Enhancement Demo Mr Amin Sheybani, CEO and founder of Vivandi Trading and Vivandi Trichology Center 15:00 Goldwell Styling and Colouring Claude Al Hacheche, senior professional educator, Goldwell Amal Abdel Hadi, professional educator, Goldwell Fadi Kordab, professional educator, Goldwell 15:30 The Gloss Collection Michel Zeytoun, Gloss Academy ambassador 16:00 Pro Blo, Curl Me the Queen of blow dry Speaker TBC

Meet the Ambassadors Sharing our passion for the industry, the team of PB Ambassadors will be joining the panel debates to share their experiences in the region. Read more about what will be discussed and the all star line-up of successful names in the industry including: Jamilla Paul, Ruksher Malik, Tara Roux, Maria Dowling, Galina Spierling and Salina Handa at: www.professionalbeauty.ae/ ambassadors

See the full agenda, what will be discussed and speaker information at: www.professionalbeauty.ae/education

The Professional Spa and Wellness Convention Dubai 2016 Turn the page for the full programme of speakers in this not-to-be-missed, two-day event.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

Available in Luxury Salons and Spas Exclusive Distributors in UAE and Kuwait

907 Platinum Business Center Al Nahda 2, Al Qusais, Dubai, UAE Phone: +97142206024 Email: info@beautylicious.com www.beautylicious.com

Getting to the heart of what matters Best practices and case studies This 2-Day conference includes the very best presentations and networking opportunities for spa business owners, managers, directors and GM’s who are keen to enhance their knowledge and discover industry insights to ultimately learn how to combat new or existing challenges facing their business

Day 1 Monday 1st February

Carol Philips

Daniella Russell Stephen de Heinrich de Omorovicza

8:00 Sharon Kolkka

Kathryn Moore

Jean-Guy de Gabriac

Mark Moloney

Zayed Faris

Paul Hawco

Lindsay Madden-Nadeou

Christian Kiefer

GREET THE DAY Morning Yoga session • Zayed Faris, zen Yoga (UAE)

Trent Munday

Jermey McCarthy

Andrew Gibson

Maria Antonela

14:55 KPI’S: Case study from Platinum sponsor H2E2 • Fady Tawfik, co founder and head of business operations, H2E2 (UAE) 15:00 KPI’S: Strategic insights from the 1st spa benchmark panel in the GCC

9:00

REGISTRATION & MORNING COFFEE

9:30

CHAIRMAN’S OPENING REMARKS • Mark Moloney, managing director, Professional Beauty / Professional Spa and Wellness (UK)

9:35

ORIENTATION • Jean-Guy de Gabriac, CEO and founder TIP TOUCH International (France)

CHAIR: Paul Hawco, director of Talise Spa operations, Jumeirah Group / Jumeirah Hotels and Resorts (UAE)

9:40

WELLNESS DESTINATIONS Learn from best-selling activities and programmes for happy and healthy guests CHAIR: Kathryn Moore, managing director, Spa Connectors

• Lindsay Madden-Nadeau, director of spa integration and operations, FRHI Global (UAE) • Christian Kiefer, general manager, Dreamworks Spa and Zen Yoga (UAE)

15:50 HUMAN RESOURCES

• Nils Behrens, managing director and chief marketing officer, Lanserhof Group (Germany) • Sharon Kolkka, general manager and wellness director, Gwinganna (Australia) • Brian Hoare, Wellness and Recovery, NAUFAR (UAE) • Maria Antonela Axinte co-founder and head of operations Wellness Consultancy, H2E2 (UAE) Management (UAE)

Help your team bloom and flourish (unlock your team’s motivation and potential) CHAIR: Trent Munday, vice-president, Steiner Spa Consulting (Bali)

• Jeremy McCarthy, group spa director, Mandarin Oriental (Hong Kong) • Jason Sloan, group spa director GCC, Hyatt (UAE) • Shabana Karim, owner/ founder, House of Enspa (UAE)

10:40 COFFEE & NETWORKING

16:40 COFFEE & NETWORKING 11:00 KEYNOTE SPEAKER: The art of retail therapy Jason Sloan

16:55 ENERGY BOOST:

• Carol Phillips, best selling author (In the Bag), international professional educator, consultant and spa owner (USA)

5 minutes with a Wellness expert • Jeff Butterworth, chief spa and wellness officer, LUX Resorts (Mauritius)

17:00 EXPLORING THE POSITIVE IMPACT OF SPAS

11:30 PANEL: The psychology of buying

Shabana Karim

Ingo Schweder

Why we shop, what buttons to activate in shoppers brain to turn them on, and on, and on… CHAIR: Carol Phillips, keynote (USA)

• Fady Tawfik, co founder and head of business operations, H2E2 (UAE) • Daniella Russell, principal, Dr SPA consulting / Soul Spa (UAE) • Stephen de Heinrich de Omorovicza, owner, Omorovicza (Hungary)

12:30 WELLNESS LUNCH INSPIRED BY RECIPES FROM GWINGANNA

• Networking break and visit exhibition (2.5 hours)

for cancer patients, survivors and their families. how can/ should health and wellness destinations, hotel spas and day spas alleviate the emotional pathos, coach a healthy lifestyle, and also help the family to cope CHAIR: Ingo Schweder, principal, GOCO Hospitality (Thailand) • Manuela Boyle, clinical integrative oncology (Australia) • Dr Nasim Ashraf, chairman and CEO, DNA Health (UAE)

17:30 CLOSING COMMENTS OF DAY 1

• Mark Moloney, managing director, Professional Beauty/Professional Spa and Wellness (UK)

Fady Tawfik

To ensure genuine networking opportunities, delegate numbers are limited and access for brand owners, manufacturers and distributors is limited to sponsors only. For more information contact zaid@professionalspawellness.ae Early booking is advisable.

Platinum sponsor:

Gold sponsor:

Next month!

Day 2 Tuesday 2nd February

Bryan Hoare

Dr. Nasim Ashraf

Hannah Dowd Nikos Kouremenos Sushmita Sarangi

8:00

GREET THE DAY Morning Thai Chi session • Master Can, Talise Spa (UAE)

9:00

THE BREAKFAST CLUB Slices of wisdom. Exchanging best practices that worked wonders for you this past year • Jeremy McCarthy, Andrew Gibson, Trent Munday, Jeff Butterworth

9:50 9:55

Mia Kyricos

Sughra Khaliq

CHAIR: Jeff Butterworth, chief spa and wellness officer, LUX Resorts (MAURITIUS) • Frank Pitzikalis, CEO, Resort Suite (Canada) • Lopo Champalimaud, EO Wahanda (UK) • Dan Chandre, SVP of strategic partnerships booker (Asia Pacific)

Frank Pitzikalis

Lopo Champalimaud

15:50 LUXURY & EXCELLENCE: what else…

CHAIR: Simon Casson, regional VP & GM, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts (UAE) • Sharon Codner, spa director, The Peninsula (Hong Kong) • Sophia Kremser, international training director, Guerlain Spa (France) • Maria Antonela Axinte co-founder and head of operations wellness consultancy, H2E2 (UAE) Management (UAE)

16:40 COFFEE & NETWORKING

Dan Chandre

Master Can

16:55 ENERGY BOOST:

5 minutes with wellness expert • Jean-Guy de Gabriac, CEO and founder TIP TOUCH International (France)

Jeff Butterworth

17:00 INSIGHTS & BEST PRACTICES to take home from the Breakfast Club Chairs present the key ideas discussed over breakfast for every delegate to leave with an inspiring “doggy-bag” full of best practices. • Jeremy McCarthy, Andrew Gibson, Trent Munday, Jeff Butterworth

11:50 MEMBERSHIPS

How to engage clients for a long mutually rewarding relationship CHAIR: Andrew Gibson, VP spa and wellness, FRHI (UAE)

Simon Casson

Online booking, dynamic pricing. Engage clients and expand your business opportunities

10:50 COFFEE & NETWORKING Mia Kyricos presents the mega trends from Spa Finder Wellness 365 with an interactive controversial panel that was a ROAR in London last February • Mia Kyricos, chief brand officer, Spafinder Wellness Inc., and founder, Kyricos and Associates (USA) • Panelists vote and comment on each trend as fact or fiction. • Andrew Gibson, Kathryn Moore, Paul Hawco, Jeremy McCarthy

Sophia Kremser

15:00 SPA REVENUE MANAGEMENT

• Hannah Dowd, spa director, Emirates Palace Spa Abu Dhabi (UAE) • Nikos Kouremenos, education and project manager, Raison d’Etre (Sweden) • Sushmita Sarangi, GM, marketing, Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces (India)

11:10 MEGA TRENDS: Spa Finders Wellness 365 (40mn)

Sharon Codner

FROM GWINGANNA • Networking break and visit exhibition (2.5 hours)

FORWARD & ORIENTATION • Jean-Guy de Gabriac, CEO and founder TIP TOUCH International (France) budgeting and business planning CHAIR: Sharon Barcock, global spa director, Hilton Worldwide (UAE)

Neil Orvay

12:40 WELLNESS LUNCH INSPIRED BY RECIPES

OPENING SPEECH • Mark Moloney, managing director, Professional Beauty/ Professional Spa and Wellness (UK)

10:00 BUDGETING: The art and science of spa

Nicolas Ronco

Sharon Barcock

17:30 CLOSING REMARKS

• Fady Tawfik, Co founder and head of business operations, H2E2 (UAE) • Nicolas Ronco, CEO, YELO SPA (USA) • Neil Orvay, CEO Asia Spa and Wellness Ltd (Hong Kong) • Sughra Khaliq, group operations manager, Diva Spa (Qatar)

• Mark Moloney, managing director, Professional Beauty / Professional Spa and Wellness (UK)

Manuel Boyle

Nils Beherens

Bronze sponsor:

First 10 people to register using discount code: DSW8 will receive 50% off!

Executive package: Two-day: USD $340 One-day: USD $200

* Full conference attendance includes lunch and refreshments throughout the day * Exclusive access to the Professional Spa & Wellness Convention Lounge * Invitation to the evening networking drinks reception * VIP access to the Professional Beauty exhibition

www.professionalbeauty.ae/spaconvention

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spa q&a

professionalbeauty.ae

Spotlight on speakers Our monthly catch up with key speakers from the 2016 Professional Spa and Wellness Convention. This month, we feature Daniella Russell Why is “The psychology of buying” a topic you want to speak about? Retail is such a huge part of our additional income, which is one of the main reasons I wish to pursue this subject. To complete our job professionally and correctly, we should offer our clients a 360 degree overview. A spa visit is not only a hands-on experience with excellent results, it is about maintaining the result and moving forward. This should include purchasing retail products so that the client is still experiencing the benefits of their spa visit, long after they have left.

What would you like the audience to take away from this session? I would like the audience to gain an understanding of the importance of retail for both the client and the business. It is a two-way gain. We are generally frightened of retailing and we need to overcome this fear.

What can we expect from your presentation? Debate, excitement, and positive thinking!

What industry changes would you like to see in 2016? I would like to see great dedication to training and

education and for the understanding of wellness to keep growing.

What have been the most important spa industry developments in the last few years?

For me, it’s definitely the shift into wellness and health, which is now stronger than ever.

What is the most important global role for the spa and wellness industry?

To keep carrying the health, wellness and fitness approach into the spa world until they merge naturally.

Why are industry events such as the Professional Spa & Wellness Convention important?

This event allows like-minded individuals to network, and helps us keep moving forward through innovation, great ideas, reinforcement of beliefs, support and direction.

Which sessions are you most looking forward to at the convention?

All of them as they all have something important to share.

Daniella Russell is spa development and operations director at Spa Concepts. She has vast experience in the GCC spa industry including a stint as director of health and leisure for Wafi Group, Dubai, which includes Cleopatra's Spa and Spa Resources International.

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talking to…

professionalbeauty.ae

Jane Wurwand

The Dermalogica founder tells Eve Oxberry why the industry needs to take therapy outside the treatment room walls

ane Wurwand is one of those people you can’t help but be inspired by. Having launched Dermalogica with US$14k and a lot of ambition, she built the company into a US$240m-turnover business before selling it to consumer goods giant Unilever last year. Meanwhile she’s also found the time to raise a family and set up a global charity to help other women achieve their own financial independence. When I meet up with her in a Vegas hotel, it becomes clear how she fits so much in. She talks at double speed, one idea immediately generating another, and is as passionate as ever about the two things that make the beauty industry tick: changing the skin and helping women to start their own businesses. And it’s this balance of egalitarianism and business nous that is driving her focus for the coming year. “We need to democratise skin therapy,” she says. “The next generation don't want this private, precious thing that you only find in Knightsbridge or Beverley Hills. They want it to be fun and not too institutionalised. So I think we have to redefine what we do because, as an industry, what we have now is not a sustainable business model.” For Dermalogica, change will involve more airport retail and treatments in stores, including both standalone sites and concessions. For the wider market, she says, it means

a more open-plan format in salons – something Dermalogica pioneered with its Skin Bars and Face Mapping concepts. “It has to happen,” she says. “It happened to nails, it happened to hair when Vidal Sassoon opened his salon in the 1960s. Before that everyone was having their hair washed and cut in cubicles.”

Growth market Wurwand says that opening up the market in this way will be one of the key routes to growth for the industry, with another being a wider acceptance of the importance of skincare and of beauty therapists by medical professionals. She quotes the US Department of Labor stats that predicted 40 per cent job growth for beauty therapists in America by 2022, second only to technology, and adds that while some of that growth is coming from the traditional model, she thinks a lot will come from clinics, adding, “Here's the game changer in the medical profession that has impacted our industry: among dermatologists aged 50 or older the majority, 66 per cent, are men but with dermatologists aged 35 or younger, a 72 per cent majority are women and the prediction is that by 2020 only 11 per cent of dermatologists will be men. So these are young women who use product, who understand the difference between putting Vaseline on your face or using Dermalogica Skin Smoothing cream. So that’s where I believe that 40 per cent is coming from. More skin therapists are going to be found in airports or retail and also in dermatologists offices.”

1983 Jane Wurwand opens her first training school, International Dermal Institute, in California, having observed poor education in the US after training in the UK

1986 Creates the first Dermalogica products, a line focused on skin health and free from common irritants

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

New Beauty Ceremonies for your skin & senses

m d a r qu profeeprodueit ssion s nels

SPA

Instit

ut de

B e au

tĂŠ

talking to…

professionalbeauty.ae

However, democratisation will not sound the death knell for luxury spas, she adds: “There will always be an opposite and equal reaction, so we’ll continue to have luxury spas with fabulous multi-million dollar builds.” A takeover by a giant like Unilever will always mean upscaling quickly, and an increased presence in retail stores seemed inevitable when the deal was announced in June 2015. However, Wurwand is quick to point out that any new retail initiative will “always involve treatments” and that “there’s not an intention to take it mass market”. Instead, she says, Dermalogica will give Unilever a vehicle to implement some of the more advanced research and development it simply can’t afford to use in its many mass brands. “Anti-ageing is still the key area for us and there are a lot of products in this area that are expensive to make,” she says. “You're working with peptides and proteins that are among the most expensive ingredients, and while you can use a very small percentage of that ingredient in a mass line you can't use it at the sort of percentage level where you’re going to get a significant effect. You have to be in prestige and Unilever has the R&D to develop those products but they smartly saw that they need a brand, a division, to carry that. They already have a number of patents that they’ve not been able to embed into a brand, until now.”

New focus As well as anti-ageing, Wurwand reveals that Dermalogica’s new product development is likely to move into the health and wellness space. “There is a new area of self care, which is nothing to do with beauty and isn't clinical. It’s meditation, yoga, mindfulness, nutrition, wellness, skincare and massage. It has to do with self-determination of who we want to be and how we want to age. That’s the space we play in and the space Unilever

with a partner who’s in food – we’re now asking, what’s the nutritional issue, what’s the lifestyle issue that would go with this product?” Does that mean Dermalogica will be launching nutrition products? “Maybe,” she says. Professional-only lines will also remain key and Dermalogica has several on the cards for next year, with innovations set to include a charcoal mask and an ion active facial. In the US, Dermalogica recently launched Dermalogica MD, for aesthetic and dermatology clinics. While

the

market

may

evolving

rapidly,

Wurwand says her vision for Dermalogica remains the same as when she founded the brand. “Our goal for the International Dermal Institute (IDI) was to train the industry and elevate the standard so that skin therapist had a skill set they could sell and be financially independent,” she says. “Now I have a vision of training China. We’ve got 100s of millions of women there that want to be entrepreneurs. This would be a fantastic opportunity for women to have their own businesses, so train China is embedded in my brain, then train India and South America. We’ve got huge parts of the world where there’s not an official training programme.” This, she says, will mean more physical schools for the IDI and a greater outreach of her FITE (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship) charity but also a significant growth in what the company does online. “There’s this enormous platform now for online which didn't exist when we launched and there is so much potential there,” she says. “I see no reason we shouldn't be face mapping live online, with a really good camera, and good technology. With the client as your partner, you can say. ‘run your hands over, what does that feel like? How warm does that feel?’ So you

wants to play more in,” she says. “So that’s part

can do a thermal map of inflammation. In fact, that

of the R&D plan – especially now we’re working

seems doable tomorrow!” PB

1990 Dermalogica opens its first UK and Ireland accounts

2001 Develops Face Mapping to diagnose skin concerns

2006 Launches Micro Zone express treatments plus key products Pre Cleanse and Super Rich Repair

2010 Founds global charity FITE (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship)

2015 Sells Dermalogica to goods giant Unilever

Key dates

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

skin special

professionalbeauty.ae

New year, new skin Skin expert Rebecca Treston offers five skincare resolutions and tips for 2016 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to inspire you and your clients

Follow a healthy lifestyle:

If the inside is out of balance, it will show on the outside so a well-balanced, healthy diet should include good, professionallyrecommended supplementation and a high water intake. When it comes to diet, I recommend eating clean food (organic if possible), cutting sugar intake

to reduce inflammation and taking supplements such as vitamin C to increase cellular function. I often take a concoction of magnesium, a supplement called 5HTP, a supplement of vitamin D and evening primrose oil; and if I am suffering from not being able to sleep, I add some melatonin. One supplement that can be taken by everyone is aloe vera. It is brilliant at neutralising toxins in the body and reducing inflammation.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

special skin

professionalbeauty.ae

Follow a good skincare routine:

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget SPF:

Double cleanse, especially in the evenings. Those who wear lots of make-up should be using an emulsifying cleanser first, as this will break down any make-up and oil. Once this has been done, then another cleanser that is specific to skin type can be used, for instance, those with acne can use a cleanser that contains salicylic acid, while those who have dry or ageing skin should use a cleanser that has AHA (alpha hydroxy acid). This two-step regime removes the dirt and grime from the skin first, so that the skin can breathe and rejuvenate properly. The cleanser in the second step should then have the active ingredients needed to target the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual concerns. My recommendation is to only use products that have strong actives such as AHA or salicylic acid in the evening. People that use AHA morning and evening are at risk of drying their skin out, making it a bit tight and tired looking. Night-time is best for stronger cleansers, while mornings it is better to use something light, gentle and refreshing, nothing too strong or too astringent. Choose products with a good level of antioxidants: This will filter out toxins and rebuild some of the cell damage that has occurred. Use a retinol product in the evenings, as retinol is anti-ageing, stimulates collagen and helps cell regeneration. Use a good quality hydrating moisturiser. An evening moisturiser should contain hyaluronic acid and Vitamin C..

80 per cent of ageing is attributed to UV rays so this is the most proactive New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s resolution in the fight against ageing. SPF should be reapplied every two to three hours, especially in a sunny country.

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

The right skincare treatments:

Some treatments are beneficial to all skin types. A deep cleansing facial and a skin peel are great skin pick-me-ups. A deep cleansing facial will thoroughly cleanse the skin and it boasts multiple benefits. These include purifying the skin, removing dead skin cells and cleaning out any open pores. A regular deep cleanse facial is a very important part of a good skincare regime and it is especially vital to those clients with congested skin. It is also a great treatment to keep skin healthy and in its optimum condition. A peel is a terrific therapy to keep skin fresh and exfoliated. Although peels can be combined with deep cleansing facials, they are meant to complement the deep cleanse, rather than replace it. Sometimes, people may need a treatment that is more rigorous in terms of purifying and cleaning out the open pores and so this is when the combination treatment of deep cleanse and peel can work to yield brilliant results. One of my favourite treatments is Ulthera, a treatment that

skin special

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71 free of those indications, but we need to be careful using laser with the UAE weather. A laser such as evo boasts multiple benefits for the skin, including the elimination of sun damage and age spots and being able to minimise melisma and chloasma. This type of treatment can be performed a couple of times a year to keep skin in tiptop condition. Two other treatments that are proving increasingly popular with my patients are Mesotherapy and PRP. Mesotherapy, such as the Viora Infusion, infuses the dermis layer under the skin with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and amino acids to nourish and rejuvenate. This promotes production of collagen and elastin and will stimulate rejuvenation. Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) also known as the vampire facelift uses a purified and concentrated portion of your own blood to help repair cellular damage and to rejuvenate your facial skin. PRP can stimulate the regeneration and recovery of ageing facial tissue in order to permanently reduce wrinkle pouches and improve skin tone.

treats the skin from the foundations to its upper layers. It is recognised as the best non-invasive alternative to plastic surgery on the market because of the fact it helps to re-organise ageing skin by stimulating collagen, elastin and fibroblasts. Post-treatment tighter, visibly smoother and textured skin can be seen. Ultherapy can be added into any skincare programme. For example, younger skins can use it as a preventative treatment, having it once every 18 months. Ageing skins can have an annual proactive treatment. Older skins can have it every six to eight months to boost collagen levels. Because it has a price tag, people will use it but wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get addicted to it, but when they do have it, they will see really impressive results. For the outside of the skin, I like to use lasers to remove fine lines and address sun damage. Laser resurfacing is great for keeping the skin

Make time to relax:

With the stressful pace of modern life, it is crucial to know how to relax. Breathing exercises and replacing caffeine with camomile tea can help. Most of our cellular repair is done through the night so eight hours sleep is essential. Removing gadgets from the room and reading before bedtime can help this.

Rebecca Treston is founder and manager of Rebecca Treston at Euromed. For further details, call +971 4 394 54 22 or visit www.euromedclinicdubai.com

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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New beginnings This month we preview some of 2016’s exciting new launches Elemis Elemis is launching its first cleansing oil in February. Adding to its portfolio of cream, gel, foam and balm cleansers, the brand will now offer an option for clients who prefer to use a luxurious oil texture to remove make-up and impurities. The Nourishing Omega-rich Cleansing Oil is a light but effective oil developed to restore the skin’s balance and protect the microflora as it removes make-up. It is a blend of over 90 per cent natural oils including winter rose oil, packed with omega-9 to soothe and support the skin and improve barrier function, chia seed oil, with its nourishing omega-3, and pomegranate oil, packed with vitamins, antioxidants and flavonoids including vitamin C and tocopherol to revitalise and refresh skin. One or two pumps of the oil should be massaged into dry skin and emulsified with warm water, upon which it melts into a milky lather. This can then be removed with a cleansing cloth or splashed off with warm water. Call Elemis +971 4 324 54 14

QTICA The Overnight Intense Hand Repair Balm promises to “seal and heal” rough, dry, raw and chapped hands, restoring lost moisture and revitalising parched skin after one application. The thick, luxe balm treatment also improves appearance by stimulating cellular renewal and diminishing the visible signs of ageing in the hands. It can be used as part of manicure treatments as well as retailed to your clients. Key ingredients include, balm base-honey, beeswax, vitamins A, C and E. Propylene Glycol also serves as a powerful moisture binder, drawing water from the air into the skin. While salicylic acid-stimulates cellular renewal and panthenol strengthens skin. Call + 971 4 220 60 24

Germaine de Capuccini’s Due to launch early this year, Timexpert Lift (IN) is a new three-strong line, set to join Germaine de Capuccini’s popular Timeexpert antiageing collection. Designed to lift and redefine the skin, it uses purified oligosaccharides to stimulate collagen synthesis and V-Matrix, a bio molecular peptide, to help to define the contours of the face. The three products are: Vector Lift Master Firmness Serum (50ml), Supreme Definition Cream (50ml) and Neck and Décolletage Tautening and Firming Cream (50ml). Call +971 4 333 66 65

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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75 Dermalogica The Overnight Retinol Repair is a powerful treatment cream that accelerates skin renewal and reduces the appearance of skin ageing overnight. Active microencapsulated pure retinol helps increase collagen production and cell turnover. Powerful peptides and antioxidant vitamin C help fight signs of ageing, including uneven skin tone and discoloration. The cream has been formulated with a clinically-proven bioenergized copper amino acid complex shown to reduce visible wrinkles and improve skin firmness. The product includes a moisturising Buffer Cream to help skin acclimate to this highly-active form of retinol. Formulated without artificial fragrances, colours or parabens. Call +971 5 59 54 23 92

Davines The word alchemy is derived from the Arabic â&#x20AC;&#x153;Al-kimiaâ&#x20AC;? which means the chemistry of the supreme, and the Davines Alchemic system has been scientifically designed to ensure that hair colour is supremely enhanced. Davines scientists have distilled pure colour pigments and added them with precious creams to create six shampoos and six conditioners that enhance natural and coloured hair. The specific colour pigments blend with cosmetically coloured hair, maintaining the intensity of colour between hair services. Meanwhile, the product illuminates and accentuates natural colour, enriching the hair with beautiful shades while providing internal strength, protection and shine. Call +971 5 59 54 23 92

Rapid General Trading Rapid General Trading has introduced two products that promise to add an edge to hairdryers. The nine-finger Retractable Diffuser is made of strong thermal insulating silicone, and suitable for haidryers with a length of 20cm or more, and nozzle widths up to 52m. The Daroko Power Styler is an attachment that can be clipped on to any straight-edged hairdryer nozzle, allowing you to blow-dry and straighten hair simultaneously. Visit www.rapidgeneraltrading.com

Alterna Caviar Moisture Intense is the newest range of hair products for very dry hair from Alterna haircare. The oil-infused collection combines nutrient rich abyssiniam oil and anti-ageing creme for the transformation of dry and extremely dry hair, revealing luxuriously soft, smooth and youthful hair. The Caviar Moisture Intense Oil Creme Pre-Shampoo Treatment can be used weekly as an intensive treatment. It deeply moisturises to revitalise dehydrated strands. The Caviar Moisture Intense Oil Creme Shampoo is a low-lather, oil-based cleanser which gently removes dirt and oils and transforms to an anti-ageing creme with water. Finally, Caviar Moisture Intense Oil Creme Deep Conditioner protects the hair by creating a lipid-like barrier around each strand, sealing in hydration and reducing daily moisture loss. Call + 971 4 220 60 24

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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77 GK Hair Just launched to UAE stylists, GK’s new collection consists of Shield Additive, Cashmere, Lock Me Colour Masque and Juvexin Shield Shampoo and Conditioner. The entire GKhair collection is Juvexin infused, sulphate free, and is designed to keep hair looking young, healthy and vibrant. The new Shield Series contains an advanced formulation that effectively creates new bonds and allows for superior hair regeneration and protection. The Shield Additive delivers protection to prepare and protect hair against damage from intensive hairstyling procedures, and the Lock Me Color Masque protects the hair’s natural substances. Meanwhile to further protect the hair, the paraben-free GKhair Juvexin Color Shield Shampoo and Juvexin Color Shield Conditioner unleash healthy hair essential ingredients such as the colour protection, UV/UVA shield. Visit www.gkhair.ae or call 800 73 275.

Rapid General Trading The super-cute Tangle Teezer flowerpot hair tool is perfect for fashion-loving girls, and its latest incarnation includes a slot for your clients to add a personalised photo! With all the patented features of the tangle teezer, this tool will keep hair smooth and tangle-free, and is available in a range of colours. Visit www.rapidgeneraltrading.com

Thalgo To combat all the signs of ageing at 45-plus (loss of firmness, pronounced wrinkles), the products in this gift set will promote a glowing complexion, reduce the appearance of lines and leave the skin feeling firmer. The set includes: 1x Silicium Cream 50ml 1x Silicium Concentrate 30ml 1x Silicium Eye Cream 10ml Call +971 4 338 27 73

Essie’s Cashmere Matte Essie’s Cashmere Matte Collection is a highly anticipated range due to its unique satin-matte finish. The collection blends durable Essie polish with a mattifying iridescence for a supersoft effect, a creative alternative to classic gloss finishes for a fashion forward look. Clients can choose from an array of shades from the sumptuous mauve of Comfy in Cashmere to the effortlessly elegant neutral pink of Wrap Me Up, from the warm pearly blush of Just Stitched to the deep purple shimmer of Coat Couture as well as two other inviting shades. Call + 971 055 226 19 66

Professional Beauty GCC January 2016

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Diary dates February 8-9 Beautyworld Japan Fukuoka Fukuoka Kokusai Center, Fukuoka, Japan Beauty and spa products, equipment and services will be on show at this event in the Kyushu region of Japan. The third edition of this show, it is supported by fairs in Toyko and Osaka later in the year. www.beautyworldjapan.com February 12-13 HEALTH & BEAUTY SCANDINAVIA Norges Varemesse, Lillestrom, Norway This show is split into seven key zones with a focus on health and beauty, natural beauty, hair and fashion and anti-ageing, among others. The exhibition is looking to shine a spotlight on the latest trends in spa, beauty, wellness, nails and hair care. www.health-beauty.no February 13-15 STS Beauty Barcelona Centre de Convencions Internacional de Barcelona, Spain This show combines hair, aesthetics, nails and make-up in a programme of creative and informative demos, workshops, master classes and a conference, alongside the exhibition itself. stsbeautybarcelona.com

February 24-26 Beauty Asia 2016 Suntec, Singapore Now into its 20th edition, this exhibition showcases beauty and wellness products, equipment and packaging. Open only to trade and professionals, the event includes presentations, lives demos and industry talks. www.beautyasia.com.sg February 28-29 Professional Beauty London London ExCeL, United Kingdom Professional Beauty London will once again combine live stages and seminars with nail and make-up competitions and an exhibition where a multitude of new products will be launched. professionalbeauty.co.uk

Don’t Miss... February 1-2 Professional Beauty GCC Meydan, Dubai, UAE Professional Beauty GCC returns for its second year. With an enhanced exhibition space, the event will once again provide a unique platform to showcase products, network with fellow professionals and access a range of insightful industry talks, demonstrations, live shows and competitions. Full details can be found on pages 43 - 58 www.professionalbeauty.ae

February 28-29 Professional Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCeL, United Kingdom Running parallel to the Professional Beauty London exhibition, the PSW Convention will bring together leading global professionals from the spa industry to share their success stories and industry inisghts. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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