Professional Beauty GCC - Sept 2014 by Professional Beauty GCC

September 2014

For your beauty, hair and spa business

GCC

Global agenda GSWS preview

Coat of many colours Aloxxi arrives in the UAE

Fall

tones

SEASONAL NAIL TRENDS

sittingpretty Uncovering the best

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Published by and (C) 2014 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Andrea Anastasiou, Maria Dowling Nora Elias, Zoe Moleshead Dr Mike Ryan Advertising: display@professionalbeauty.ae classified@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production: ICD, www.icd.gb.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

39 in this issue... Regulars

Features

14 facebook/PBGCC @PBGCC

News The latest on the Four Seasons Dubai opening, a new salon chains arrives in the UAE and much more

45 Sea change We catch up with Repêchage global education leader Lauren Streeter

Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons

26 Ask the experts The low-down on the perfect, time-efficient blow dry and apps for your salon or spa

Slow beauty Green nail brand Spa Ritual launches in the UAE

49 The hair doctor Scalp detoxes explained

46 Riding the wave Our step-by-step guide to creating beautiful, wavy tresses 69 Treatment news The newest treatments for the face, hair and body 74 Product news Products aimed at creating a radiant complexion

Cover Image courtesy of: CND

30 Hair news This month we feature new launches from mariadowling salon, GK hair and Paul Mitchell

80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training

Follower of fashion Maria Dowling on how to interpret hair trends in your salon

63 Get shorty We get to grips with LPG’s new shorty massage

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welcome

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he slower summer months are coming to an end and many of you will be now looking to replenish your stock for autumn. With that in mind, we

preview the latest nail colours and techniques on page 56. We also talk trends with celebrity hairdresser Maria Dowling on page 51 and discuss how these can be interpreted in your salon. There’s a saying “a workman is only is good as his tools” and it’s true that quality equipment is integral to the success of any spa or salon. This month we focus on furniture for hair salons and we garner opinion from leading suppliers and professionals on what criteria you should use when sourcing cutting chairs and back washes, as well as highlighting the latest furniture on offer on page 41. In the spa arena, we’re gearing up for the Global Spa and Wellness Summit to be held in Morocco in October. A focus on the future, the return of the Wellness Tourism Congress and a high-profile speaker schedule are some of the things to look forward to. Read our preview on page 64. Closer to home, the programme for the inaugural Professional Spa and Wellness Convention 2015 in Dubai in February is well underway and we have attracted some of the key players in the industry for the event which will be focused on topics specific to our region. While the full programme is yet to be announced, read our interview with conference producer Jean-Guy de Gabriac in our news pages; we hope it whets your appetite for the event. Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR

On the cover 39 Sitting pretty The lowdown on cutting chairs and backwashes 53 Coat of many colours Colour king George Schaeffer moves from nails to hair

64 56 Fall tones This season’s nail colours 64 Global agenda We preview the Global Spa and Wellness Summit

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NEWS

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa

Key players to speak at PSWC

eading lights from the GCC spa industry will share their expertise at the first Middle Eastern edition of the Professional Spa and Wellness Convention (PSWC). Held as part of the first Professional Beauty GCC Show, on February 1 – 2 at the Jumeirah Madinat Arena, delegates can expect to be inspired and share ideas and innovations on all the key topics facing the industry. The full programme will soon be announced, but the impressive list of confirmed participants from the GCC include Simon Casson, regional VP and general manager at Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, Andrew Gibson, vice president, spa and wellness FRHI hotels and resorts, Neil Hewerdine, vice president spa services at Atlantis

The Palm, Vincent Mercurio, general manager, The Address Hotels and Resorts, and Stephan Schupbach, general manager Jumeirah Zabeel Saray. Conference producer Jean-Guy de Gabriac commented, “After the big success we had last February at PSWC London with very high quality presentations, industry movers and shakers in the GCC wanted to join and be part of what promises to be like a post-graduate level conference for savvy general managers, spa directors, asset managers, owners and investors. The PSWC stands apart from other spa conferences in that it gathers top senior executives from the hospitality and spa industry who speak less to say more. Each panel

Talise launches signature wellness initiative

Decision makers commit to networking event

The Talise Spa, part of the Jumeirah Group, has launched the new “Signature Wellness experience” across all the Talise spas in Dubai. For the first time, two new Signature treatments, Talise Therapeutic and Muscle Re-lease, will be available at the Talise spas in the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, the Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray and the Madinat Jumeirah. The treatments use the Talise Spa branded products, therapeutic warming oil and a wellness massage lotion. The “Signature Wellness” initiative is a reflection of the Talise core belief that wellness is not an exclusive concept but is accessible and suitable for everyone.

Several high-profile decision makers from the world of spa and wellness have committed to participating in the first Spatec Middle East, with the aim of meeting and doing business with new suppliers. Representatives from the Jumeirah, Rotana, Marriott, Fairmont, Mandarin Oriental, Anantara, Banyan Tree and Starwood groups will be part of the networking event to be held this month (September) at the Mina Seyahi Complex in Dubai. The event aims to bring together the most important spa operators from the Middle East to meet with key, leading domestic and international suppliers to participate in a series of one-on-one

is organised in such a way that the chairs and speakers will each share in 10-12 minutes of KPIs and best practices on the following topics: trends, emotional engagement, international benchmarks, HR, retail, spa management, architecture and design and spa marketing. “The exponential growth of spas in the GCC makes it one of the most competitive regions in the world, with acute focus on financial profitability and the need for outstanding guest experiences, while facing very high staff turnover, even for spa managers. These specific issues will be addressed, and creative ways to cope with them will be provided during very interactive Q&A sessions with the delegates.”

meetings over two dedicated business days. Throughout the event, attendees will meet spa owners, operators, directors and suppliers during meals and other planned networking activities.

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news

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Celebrity-endorsed salon brand rolls out across the UAE

ward-winning brand Anesis London, a high-end salon, spa and clinic model with more than 150 treatments and its own product line, is planning to roll-out across the UAE. The Anesis product line comprises advanced, anti-ageing skincare formulas with a celebrity following. Anesis now intends to launch it into major department stores, malls and hotels to gain awareness of the brand before opening its salon, spa and clinic establishments. Damien Zannetou, Anesis Global CEO, is already in talks with Selfridges, Space NK, Fenwicks, Liberty and Dubai Mall. “We have just signed a Master Licence deal in the Middle East to open a chain of salons, spas and clinics across the Middle East and to distribute our product line,” confirms Zannetou. “Our first location

will be Dubai, followed by Riyadh in Saudi Arabia, then stretching across the MENA region. “Our skincare line Anesis Skin is a unique formula; the products have helped us to develop four tailormade Anesis facials within our salon spa and clinic set ups. “We have a cosmeceutical and botanical line manufactured by leading plastic surgeons in the US and dermatologists in the UK with the Anesis stamp, your Facialist in a Bottle. The line includes a Rose-hip Seed Cleanser, a 7.5% Fruit Acid Exfoliator, an All In One Moisturiser, Apple Stem Cell Serum, Oxygen Plasma Mask, Super Boost Serum and Oxygen Plasma Serum. “In my London based salon I have some high profile celebrities using my line who stand by the results.”

Zen spa opens in five-star Salalah resort The five-star Rotana Salalah resort in Oman has opened opened Zen - a spa focusing on traditional holistic therapies. The spa features eight uniquely designed treatment rooms – four female, four male, a couples’ room and

two relaxation rooms. The spa’s décor endeavours to bring the outside in, employing fresh hues of cool blues, sages and tans complete with natural stone and wood. Zen offers traditional massages, facials and body treatments with a menu designed to reclaim inner harmony through holistic therapies. It also offers three signature rituals and guests are invited to further embrace the full concept of wellness at the resort’s stateof-the-art fitness and leisure club. Other facilities include two swimming pools, a sauna and steam rooms in addition to two tennis courts.

Shangri-La announces Palm opening Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts has announced plans to add to its Middle Eastern property portfolio with the opening of a hotel on Dubai’s manmade Palm Jumeirah island. The 290-room hotel will occupy the first 18 floors of the 52-storey Palm Tower building. Construction on the tower is set to begin later this year, with completion expected in 2016. The Shangri-La hotel will feature a spa and health club, an outdoor pool, a selection of dining outlets and access to the beach, among other facilities. Shangri-La expects to sign the management agreement for the property with Dubai-based real estate developer Nakheel within the next few weeks. Shangri-La president and chief executive Greg Dogan said: “The island is the ultimate address for a luxurious stay in Dubai and we are thrilled to partner with Nakheel to open a ShangriLa hotel in this must-visit destination.” The hotel on the Palm marks the latest addition to the hotel group’s growing number of Middle Eastern properties. Shangri-La already operates four hotels in Dubai and Abu Dhabi and one in Muscat, with a further property currently under development in Qatar.

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APPLICATION

REMOVAL

Synergy is key. Always use the complete Gel FX manicure system to ensure proper application and removal. Substituting may diminish the performance of the product.

This wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hurt a bit. Take your gel nail color

nails, and remove excess oil with Gel FX 3-in-1 Cleanser.

Apply a thin coat of your choice of Gel FX Nail Color and cure.* Apply second coat and cure.

in love with another color.

Application Tip: Seal it. Seal the

Break the seal of the gel with shiny topcoat layer must be completely removed. Removal Tip: Prep. Push cuticles

tips and chipping. Keep in mind that darker colors may need an extra coat.

Lightly prime the nail tips only with Vitamin-infused Gel FX Nail Tip Primer. Avoid the surrounding skin and let air dry for 30 seconds. It will appear shiny.

Apply a thin, even coat of Gel FX Topcoat and cure.* Application Tip: Seal it. Seal the

to remove with ease.

Fully saturate the sponge of the Gel FX Foil Remover Wrap with Gel FX Remover. Immediately ensure the product does not evaporate and the heat is insulated in the wrap.

tips and chipping.

Application Tip: Less is more. Apply sparingly only to nail tips

Removal Tip: Wrap it. Fingertips should be fully covered in the wrap.

Apply a thin layer of Vitamininfused and cure.* Apply to thumbs and cure separately.

After curing, use ORLY Dry Brush to brush down the tacky layer, ensuring proper curing and preventing any crawling or wrinkling.

Application Tip: For a high gloss shine, use a new wipe every two to three nails.

Application Tip: Think thin. Be light handed when applying basecoat.

Remove tacky layer with Gel FX 3-in-1 Cleanser and Gel FX Lint-Free Wipe.

Finish by applying one to two drops of Gel FX Vitamin-infused Cuticle Oil to each nail.

Soak the nail for 10 minutes. Removal Tip: Check in! Certain colors may need additional removal time. If needed, soak for additional 5 minutes at most.

nails with ORLY Pusher & Remover. Removal Tip: Be light handed. No

news

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Four Seasons confirms resort opening date

our Seasons Hotels and Resorts has announced the long-awaited opening date of its new property in the UAE, the Four Seasons Dubai at Jumeirah Beach as December 1. The five-story hotel will feature 237 rooms and suites, with facilities including 10 dining outlets, 1,199sq m of meeting and events space and extensive spa and wellness facilities. The 706sq m spa will feature 10 treatment rooms, including the Royal Spa Suite – which will have its own bathtub, relaxation area and outdoor terrace. Couples will also be able to have private rasul treatments in the royal suite. All treatment rooms will have ritual foot baths, and some will also come with their own steam showers. Facilities at

the spa will include a thermal area, with guests having the option of designing their own aqua thermal journey. Among the features in the thermal area will be rain tunnels, a whirlpool, a cold experience, a steam room and a scrub bar. The spa will also feature an indoor pool, in addition to the two outdoor pools at the resort. Other facilities at the spa will include a juice bar, an En Vogue beauty salon offering nail, beauty and hair services, a men’s grooming lounge and a 24-hour fitness centre. Spa director Hayley Bluett said: “Our spa has been designed as a Four Seasons showpiece on a global scale, with a full menu of traditional healing rituals and cutting-edge therapies which will be highlighted

by a deluxe aqua-thermal experience that includes rain tunnel, scrub bar, chill zone, steam and whirlpool. Each of our treatment rooms opens to a discreet outdoor space and has its own foot ritual bath. The Royal Spa Suite includes wet and dry suites within, along with a secluded outdoor terrace, relaxation lounge and bathtub for two. We’ll also offer rasul mud treatments for couples in this very private, exclusive space.” Added Simon Casson, regional vice president and general manager, “Our Resort is an intimately scaled, luxurious enclave of comfort and style. Throughout, guests can expect highly personalised service that is consistent with Four Seasons hotels and resorts around the world.”

JW Marriott launches in-house spa brand JW Marriott has announced the launch of its first in-house spa brand, Spa by JW. There are currently more than 20 spas in development with the first two locations scheduled to open being the spa at the JW Marriott Houston Downtown in September and the JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar in December. Plans for a UAE venue are yet to be unveiled.

The Spa by JW concept is centred on four cornerstones: calm, indulge, invigorate and renew. The calm aspect refers to offering clients the opportunity to rest and restore balance, while indulge relates to the pampering side of the spa offering. The invigorate tenet aims to restore energy and vitality levels, with renew treatments and services seeking to purify body and mind. Treatments on

the Spa by JW menus will include the Stress Relief, Sleep Deeply and Clear Your Mind massages and the Soothing, Anti-Ageing and Firming & Brightening facials, among others. Mitzi Gaskins, vice president and global brand manager for JW Marriott Hotels & Resorts, said: “Our guests are looking for an experience that delivers true impact and results that are tailored to their state of mind. Spa by JW offers an environment where you can choose exactly what you want, when you want.” Spa by JW treatment menus will also incorporate an express offering. The series of 12-25-minute treatments will be available without a pre-booked appointment and will include the Relaxing Scalp and Energy Boost massages and the Hydrating Hands, Aching Feet and Tense Shoulders treatments. Spa by JW will offer products and treatments by lines including British skincare brand Aromatherapy Associates.

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Klafs launches Middle Eastern showroom

auna and pool manufacturer Klafs has opened its first Middle Eastern showroom. Based in Dubai, the showroom, for the wellness, health and beauty sector, is showcasing new relaxation and regeneration products, thematically divided into hot and cold experiences, over a floor area of 400sq m. Klafs’s CEO Stefan Schöllhammer commented: “Klafs can look back over many years of experience and innumerable outstanding projects

in the region. The opening of our new showroom in Dubai is therefore a logical investment to meet the continued growing demand from the hotel industry and from private individuals.” Highlights include the snow paradise area with a temperature of -10OC and the glacier crevasse with the Polaris ice fountain. Tiled showers and the Lite plunge pool round off Klafs’s display in the cool-down zone. The Heat Up zone also showcases a

variety of products such as the Matteo Thun Edition Sauna and Steam Room, launched earlier this year at the Milan Furniture Fair.

Rite Bite bags more than the target in campaign for needy Dubai-based nutrition company Right Bite secured 240 donations for the needy during Ramadan. Throughout the holy month, the company ran the Help Us Fill the Bag campaign, for which it received generous donations of much-needed essentials from Right Bite subscribers,

which were then donated to the Dubai Foundation for Women and Children (DFWAC). At the end of the campaign, the the team had received 240 bags of donations, with clothing items, snacks, shoes, toys, disposable plates and cutlery, and toiletries making

up the bulk of the contributions. So overwhelming was the response to the drive that donors, in addition to filling up cooler bags, dropped off more items in separate bags at the Right Bite Nutrition Centre, which helped in exceeding the campaign’s initial target of 200 bags. Nathalie Haddad, founder and managing director, said, “We are so happy to have a truly meaningful Ramadan this year – through this initiative, we became a part of a worthy cause that brings assistance and joy to the many in need. We share the success of Help Us Fill the Bag with our customers and all the other donors; all of you made this possible. “We feel very fortunate that we live in a society that comes together year after year to help those in need, especially in a very special month like Ramadan. Of course, we again thank the Dubai Foundation for Women and Children for partnering with us, allowing us to reinvigorate the real spirit of compassion and generous giving through this project.”

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business trends

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14 The month in numbers

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2014 COMPARE WITH JULY 2013?

Insider beauty, hair and nails

50 40 10

% BETTER

%WORSE

% SAME

Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons and spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

JULY

Business is notoriously slower during the summer months and 40 per cent of you say business was worse this year, when compared to July 2013. Eye treatments continue to grow in popularity and the majority of you say that threading is the most sought-after treatment, followed by waxing and tinting. Interestingly, only one per cent of you say you charge for cancellations or no shows meaning you swallow the cost of wasted therapist time. Sixty per cent of you say you are put off by suppliers’ minimum orders.

PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

On the spot WHICH AGE GROUP DO MOST OF YOUR MAKE-UP CLIENTS FALL INTO? 1. 30 to 50 2. Don’t offer make-up 3. Teenage and 20s

OF YOU CHARGE FOR LATE CANCELLATION OR NO SHOWS

WHAT IS YOUR MOST POPULAR BROW TREATMENT? 1. Threading 2. Waxing 3. Tinting

OF YOU ARE PUT OFF BY SUPPLIERS THAT HAVE MINIMUM ORDERS

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business trends

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16 The month in numbers

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2014 COMPARE WITH JULY 2013?

60 30 10

% BETTER

Insider spa

%WORSE

% SAME

Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know

JULY

More than half of you are experiencing better business when compared to this time last year, even through the quiet summer months, with 67 per cent of your clients rebooking in July. A large proportion of you still don’t use spa software and those who do mainly employ it for appointment remainders. More than half of you say you charge for cancellations or no shows. Just 40 per cent of you say you are put off by suppliers’ minimum orders.

PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

On the spot WHICH AGE GROUP DO MOST OF YOUR MAKE-UP CLIENTS FALL INTO? 1. Teenage and 20s 2. 30 to 50 3. Don’t offer make-up

OF YOU CHARGE FOR LATE CANCELLATION OR NO SHOWS

OTHER THAN DIARY MANAGEMENT, WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT FEATURE OF YOUR SPA SOFTWARE? 1. Don’t use software 2. Reminder texts 3. Business reports 4. Online bookings

OF YOU ARE PUT OFF BY SUPPLIERS THAT HAVE MINIMUM ORDERS

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1&2 FEBRUARY 2015 JUMEIRAH MADINAT ARENA, DUBAI

THE ESSENCE OF SPA, BEAUTY & HAIR The must visit exhibition for your salon and spa business

PBGCC

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113 Aspire Beauty Trading_Layout 1 14/08/2014 10:37 Page 1

Unique to our body care and nail lacquer categories are 4 States of Slow Beauty. Each contains a signature scent and color palette that engage the senses in a multisensory Slow Beauty experience. Embark on a slower path to beauty. SpaRitual. Slow Beauty® for a Fast World.

CLOSE YOUR EYES®

LOOK INSIDE®

INSTINCTUAL®

Slow Beauty for a Fast World. ®

877.SPARITUAL

SPARITUAL.COM

Aspire Beauty Trading LLC sales@aspirebeauty.ae/info@aspirebeauty.ae Telephone 04 813 5110

INFINITELY LOVING®

spa nails

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slow Shel Pink, creator of Spa Ritual

BEAUTY

Created by lifestyle futurist Shel Pink, Spa Ritual is a sustainable nail brand dedicated solely to spa. Fiona Vlemmiks talks to UAE distributor Claire Gittus as the brand launches here

n antidote to our fast-paced world, Shel Claire Gittus who is heading up the new Aspire Beauty Pink, a lifestyle futurist, rock star wife and Trading which will carry Spa Ritual alongside Nouveau daughter-in-law of Orly-creator Jeff Pink, Lashes, says she has been captivated by the brand. created Spa Ritual in 2004 – a nail brand “I have been in the industry a long time but during the whose manta is slow beauty. training for Spa Rituals I was absolutely fascinated,” she Targeting the “enlightened consumer” Spa Ritual tells me. “I can honestly say, hand on heart, that I have employs only earth-sustaining ingredients, which the never worked with a company that has carried its brand says were selected to relax, nourish and philosophy through to every single aspect of the reconnect the mind. brand. When you look into Spa Ritual, Shel After scouring the world for the best takes you on a journey with her, you get ingredients, the resulting Spa Ritual so interested and involved in it.” “I can honestly nail lacquers are 100 per cent vegan As well as the ethos and story say, hand on heart, and formulated without behind the brand, Gittus promises that I have never worked DBP, toluene, camphor, or that the results and quality of the with a company which has formaldehyde resin. The product are just as impressive. carried its philosophy through accompanying body care “What I really think is fantastic to every single aspect of the products are biodegradable is that it [the lack of chemicals brand. When you look into and free of synthetic dyes, ingredients] hasn’t affected the Spa Ritual, Shel takes you petro-chemicals and paraquality of the product. All of the on a journey with her, you bens. Spa Ritual uses FSCchemicals are in there for a reason, get so interested and certified paper for all so you have to ask yourself the involved in it” packaging, literature and question, how does taking these out marketing materials, the glass affect the product? bottles use 50 per cent recyclable “Everyone comments on how quickly Spa materials, the inks used in printed materials Ritual polishes dry and the reason is that there are no are soy-based and all production methods are chemicals in the products. Normally the chemicals fight energy efficient. against one another and that is why nail polish takes

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a long time to dry. Shel has found great alternatives to the chemicals. For instance, instead of acetone, we use a sugar derivative, a natural astringent, which works in the same way as acetone so polish comes straight off. Glitters are normally very hard to remove. The metal becomes embedded in the nails but Spa Rituals doesn’t use metal in the glitter. It comes from other shavings and is easy to remove.” The brand’s “fours steps of slow beauty” concept involves categorising products into four ranges: Look Inside, Close Your Eyes, Instinctual and Infinity Loving. Each range groups colour palettes that reflect the client’s state of mind and offers products to treat that. For example, if a client selects a blue, green, violet and

neutral tone, the therapist will use the Close Your Eyes range. The signature scent is Egyptian Geranium and this hue means the client is in need of calming and soothing. Gittus says, “It’s a complete line of scrubs, body oils, body lotions, even lip-glosses. There is also an extensive range of corrective nails products and colours. Spa Ritual also releases Signature collections; bang on trend lacquers which will only last for a year. This year its all been about neon and glitter. They also have special effects – a matt topcoat, iridescence, so the polish shines in different ways. So people can go for any look they want.”

Flying high Prior to the official launch of Spa Ritual Gittus has already notched up some impressive clients, one of these being a leading airline. Four colours from the Spa Ritual line have been chosen to match the cabin crew uniform. “One of the reasons that the airline was very pro Spa Ritual, is the brand’s green credentials,” says Gittus. “Being in aviation they are trying to go greener and Spa Ritual fitted with that philosophy. All the staff members have access to the other products from the brand and we definitely find that all of the really trendy colours sell out very quickly.” An official launch of Spa Ritual is planned later this year. Gittus intends to keep Spa Ritual exclusively for spas instead of targeting salons. “The brand is too big and complex for salons. We’re not going to sell base coats and topcoats and a few colours alone. A business has to invest in the whole thing to keep true to the philosophy of the brand.” PB To learn more about Spa Ritual contact Aspire Trading tel: +971 4 813 51 10 or email sales@aspirebeauty.ae

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business tips

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Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

How can I create the perfect blow-dry in minimal time?

s a hairstylist myself, I know that there is an element of experience and training needed to speed up blow-drying time while keeping the quality of the service to a high standard. I would highly recommend starting with regular in-salon training sessions for your stylists. Give them different lengths and textures of hair to practise with. The more they practise, the higher quality of blow-dry they will turn out and they will have more confidence in their work. This will then result in a faster blow-drying service. While training and confidence is extremely important for hair stylists, the tools and equipment that they use also has a big impact, not only on the speed of their work but on the quality too. For example, the hairdryer is very important, as a salon owner or manager it is your job to equip your salon with hairdryers that are comfortable for the stylists to use, making sure that they are not too heavy. The heavier the hairdryer the more uncomfortable, resulting in poor posture during the service. It is also essential to have high-quality brushes. The quality of each part of the brush is imperative, from the grip on the handle to the bristles. Many brushes are made with cheap plastic bristles that melt with the heat from the hairdryer; they also have ceramic coatings that chip away very easily exposing bare metal underneath the barrel of the brush, which causes damage to the hair. Other problems with brushes are the grip on the handles; most are made from hard materials like wood or plastic and are moulded in shapes that are not comfortable for the hand.

It has taken a long time for me to find a brush that I am professionally satisfied with. Last year I started to use a brand called D-Tach, developed by a professional hairdresser in the UK. Every part of the brush has been designed with care. The handle is made with soft-grip rubber, making it more comfortable for the user; the bristles are made with semiprecious crystal that has ionic technology - this conditions the hair while you brush and prevents split ends. The “race track” vent system allows better airflow – it allows the barrel to heat up and cool down quicker. For years, hairstylists have added volume and curl by heating up brushes and leaving them in the hair to cool, working on the principle that hot air dries hair and cool air sets curl into hair. Leaving the brushes in the hair to cool is a technique that has its problems. Due to the weight of the handles, the brushes twist the hair, affecting the shape of the curl and making it uncomfortable for some clients. Plus it’s nearly impossible to recreate at home. An amazing new feature that has also been devised is a system using magnets and friction that allows the handle to detach just when you need it. The detachable element makes the brushes a very versatile too! Sam Goodard is a celebrity hairstylist and co-founder of Anagen International, which distributes D-Tach brushes in the UAE.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae

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I N T R O D U C I N G TH E

AROMATHERAPY COLLECTION

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01/05/2014 17:05

business tips

professionalbeauty.co.uk

How can I engage with clients to make them ambassadors for my brand online?

What are the causes of dark circles under the eyes and how should I treat them?

ark circles around the eye are primarily (80 per cent) due to leaking capillaries under the eyes. The leaked red pigment haemoglobin changes to blue-grey hemosiderin and this is easily visible due to the thin epidermis in the area. The other 20 per cent of cases are due to melanin deposits – hyperpigmentation around the eyes. Other factors can include family history, nasal allergy and chronic eye rubbing. Phototherapy using blue light is one safe, effective treatment for this condition, with no downtime. If you choose to use a topical treatment, however, it’s important to look for the right ingredients. Any eye cream must address the weakened blood vessels in the dermis to effectively prevent dark circles. Therefore, vascular restorers are essential in the design of any under-eye cream. Some excellent vascular restorers that strengthen blood vessels include: • Albizia julibrizzen, which reverses the formation of the advanced glycation end products that are made when protein molecules in the lining of the capillaries combine with sugar in the blood to form toxic inflammatory molecules that promote leakage. This is the main reason for premature skin ageing in diabetics. • Matixyl synthe 6 peptide, a polypeptide that specifically acts to stimulate new collagen synthesis, thereby strengthening the matrix of the dermis and also the blood vessels. • Caffeine, which is well known as a vasoconstrictor. It narrows the lumen of the blood vessels, thereby preventing leakage and reducing the visibility of blood vessels under the thin epidermis. • Green tea extract, an active vasoconstrictor and antioxidant that reduces blood leakage. Treatment should also include skin-lightening ingredients such as kojic acid, octadecenedioic acid or arbutin, which reduce the amount of the dark pigment.

Shashi Gossain is founder of PharmaClinix, a cosmcecuetical skincare range that includes products specifically designed for dark skin types. The brand’s Eyerix product targets dark circles around the eyes.

or many beauty businesses, the internet can be seen as both a blessing and a curse, due to the freedom of expression that comes with it. While it provides an easy platform for your clients to write favourably about your services, it can also enable those clients who experienced a less than perfect service to vent their views. This is why many beauty professionals are initially reluctant to engage in online activity. However, it is worth remembering that the internet is quite self-regulating, so if you are good, your feedback from clients will generally be good too. It really only becomes a problem for businesses that aren’t delivering a great service to begin with. If you have a solid and proactive customer relations programme in place to manage any problems or concerns, the likelihood of receiving negative feedback is greatly reduced. The best strategy is to encourage as many of your happy clients as possible to provide you with feedback and to post on independent review sites. This is often more powerful than simply using their quotes on your website or in brochures. You can encourage your clients to become ambassadors for your brand by offering them incentives to do so, such as discount vouchers for future treatments or entry into a prize draw, as well as incentives for recommending a friend. Also, don’t be afraid to embrace social media. Create a Facebook page, encourage your clients to join you on there and share their experiences. It’s free, it’s viral and it works. PB Dr Ganesh Rao is the founder of health and beauty comparison site TreatmentSaver.com, which he launched in 2010. Before he founded the company he worked as a doctor.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae

Professional Beauty September 2014

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20/08/2014 12:29

news

professionalbeauty.ae

HAIRNEWS All the news, views, treatment and product launches from the world of hair

Turn up the volume Italian-brand Davines aims to extol the same care, vision and passion as the herbalists of Renaissance times by combining science with tradition. The brand’s product lines are categorised into “families,” each containing select, active ingredients that offer immediate and targeted effects for specific hair needs. The Volu family is a specific volumising and moisturising range for hair that lacks volume. It contains gentle surfactants to cleanse the hair shaft without weighing it down and employs hops for a revitalising and volumising action. The line comprises Volu Shampoo, Volu Conditioner and Volu Mist, a volumising spray for limp hair. The mist should be applied on the root area, creating volume without flaking.

Restore and grow The Humic Hair Restorer Serum strengthens the hair to help prevent hair loss. It contains antioxidants and natural oils to support cell renewal in the scalp and Procapil to protect and restore the hair follicles and increase growth speed. It also helps renew hair follicles. Applied after the Humic Restorer Daily Shampoo, the serum is sprayed into the hair and left to provide a restorative treatment. Perfect for home use, the serum should be applied and left overnight, three times a week, for maximum effect. The product is part of the Humic line of cosmetics and hair products manufactured, in Turkey and available in the UAE. Call: +971 4 394 9051

Call +971 4 447 76 36

Nazih Group brings top US brand to the region Paul Mitchell, the well-known US professional hair care brand, is now available in the UAE through the Nazih Group. The new range of products was unveiled at a special ceremony held at the Al Murooj Rotana hotel in the presence of top officials from both companies.

The complete range will be available in professional salons across the UAE. Nazih Hamad, managing director of Nazih Group, said: “We are so pleased to add Paul Mitchell to our portfolio of high-end brands. At Nazih Group, we always strive to attract the leading brands from across the Globe. This

launch is a very important breakthrough in the haircare and hair coloring industry across the UAE and surrounding region, which proves our commitment to our customers in catering to their discerning needs in the best possible way.” Call + 971 6 573 93 92

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

30-32 PBGCC SEPT14 Hair News.indd 30

20/08/2014 12:27

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18/08/2014

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18/8/14 18:18:02

news

professionalbeauty.ae

32 Spotlight Maria Dowling launches Hair & Scalp Clay An intensively cleansing, all-natural hair detox treatment that revitalises the hair and scalp has been launched by Dubai-based colour guru Maria Dowling. The Ritual M Hair & Scalp Clay masque is part of the mariadowling hair styling collection and has been formulated to help the hair and scalp recover from external toxins and product overload by deeply cleansing, stimulating, moisturising and rebalancing the scalp. “Regular detoxing has become an essential part of daily life for many. Yet this form of extreme cleansing is generally restricted to our internal organs and skin, while the hair, despite being equally affected by pollutants and product overload, can often be overlooked,” explains Maria Dowling, founder of the mariadowling styling range and creative director of mariadowling salon. “When both the scalp and hair follicles are properly cleansed, nourished and cared for, they give way to healthy growth and hair that recovers its vitality and beauty.” The masque employs peppermint, jojoba, lemongrass, argan oil, bergamot, sesame, vitamin B5 and honey. As well as soothing and healing damaged, irritated hair and scalps, the ingredients aim to help calm a stressed and anxious mind.

Dowling says: “Having worked as a colourist for more than twenty years, I increasingly came across hair that was lank and lifeless, full of product build-up and not able to absorb colour as deeply as hair which is truly squeaky clean. In addition, I was seeing an ever-increasing incidence of scalps sensitized and irritated by many things, including wrongly selected ‘over the counter’ shampoos and conditioners as well as an over-zealous use of styling products which were literally melting from the hair onto the scalp. “To research, develop and properly test the product took us over a year but the feedback we have had from clients who have received the treatment in-salon, has been amazing,” Dowling says. Call: +971 4 345 4225

Beach protection GKhair’s Leave-In Spray infuses hair with Juvexin, creating smooth, pliable and conditioned strands with UV protection. This powerful cocktail of ingredients adds a concentrated dose of moisture and shine while detangling and strengthening the hair. Its light texture and floral fragrance makes it a great product for clients’ beach bags - perfect for those who love the warm weather. Made for all hair types, the product can be used on either wet or damp hair to protect against split ends and breakage and from chlorine and environmental damage. Call +971 4 367 69 32

Sleek sophistication Tibolli’s T-20 Flat Iron delivers a multitude of hair options. The titaniumplated iron provides a “flash quick” heat-up up time to make it instantly hot, and the grip facility and 360 degree swivel cord make the iron easy to use. Nano Silver technology, ensures that the iron contains antibacterial properties, which keep the hair clean, natural-looking and shiny

and the rounded ends means it can also be used for curling. The Digital LED display and soft touch button allows you to adjust the temperature to your preferred setting, protecting the hair from overexposure. Call +971 4 367 69 32

Frizz-free hair Rapid General Trading has added the much-hyped D:fuse range of brushes to its growing portfolio of retail merchandise. Brought to you by the team behind the Fudge range of hair products, D:fuse brushes used advanced technology to deliver a smooth finish by eliminating frizz and static, and dramatically reduce drying time, for all hair types. The brushes also lock in essential oils and fatty acids, which slowly leak from damaged hair, and increase blood circulation to the scalp. They come in three ranges: the paddle range, for all hair types; the barrel brush, which is suitable for every hair length and comes in six barrel sizes; and the porcupine bristle brush which maintains hair elasticity - making it a perfect tool for root lift when blow drying. Call Rapid General Trading: +971 55 105 7993

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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24/06/2014 13:13

salon furniture

professionalbeauty.ae

SITTING

pretty

Pastels

When it comes to furnishing your hair salon, few items carry more importance than back wash units and cutting chairs. Zoe Moleshead has compiled a handy guide to help you make the right decision.

39-42 PBGCC SEPT14 Salon Equipment.indd 39

itting out a hair salon can seem like a neverending array of decisions. From determining target clientele and menu of services to figuring out the desired style and ambience; there are decisions that come easily and those that require a great deal of thought and discussion. In most cases these decisions have to be made with a budget constraint in mind, and of course, health and safety regulations or guidelines. Two key decisions that salon owners, suppliers and industry professionals all agree should be given greater weight and consideration are the purchase of back wash units and cutting chairs. Furniture is of key importance to any salon – it is critical in shaping the décor and style of the salon and providing practicality and functionality for both staff and clients – but none more so than the back washes and cutting chairs. Why? It’s where customers spend most time. “Clients can be sitting down for a few hours at a time, so they need to be as comfortable as possible to enhance their salon experience,” explains Jane

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

20/08/2014 12:26

salon furniture

professionalbeauty.ae

41 parties ergonomically-designed, cushioned and adjustable furniture is the way to go. Ergonomic design – perhaps a motorised seat with lumbar and foot support – helps to alleviate the stress on the client, while ample space and a suitable height of back wash unit benefit the salon staff. With cutting chairs, bigger and more cushioned seats with good back support provide the comfort factor for clients, whilst the ability to adjust their height is essential for stylists.

Design: Whittingdon, general manager of Sisters Beauty Lounge, a salon chain that provides both hair and beauty services. “People may not remember if their chair was comfortable but they will definitely remember if it wasn’t,” she adds. Back wash units are another element of the salon that are heavily used and therefore scrutinised by customers as Ruksher Malik, owner, partner and stylist at Dubaibased hair and beauty salons Pastels, notes: “The wash units are used by almost every customer who passes through a salon, so make sure yours is the correct one for you and your customers.” With the need to satisfy clients and provide them with a salon experience that is relaxed and comfortable, Deborah Whitehead, managing director of Dubai-based Salon Educators hairdressing academy, recommends that salons “always purchase the highest quality they can afford”, especially in the case of cutting chairs. Budget is a primary factor in any purchase for a salon – when setting up or refurbishing – but in the case of cutting chairs and back wash units, there are many more considerations:

Comfort: This is the factor that salons, equipment providers and industry professionals are unanimous in citing as of utmost importance in the selection of cutting chairs and back wash units. And it’s not just the comfort of the client that has to be considered but also stylists and salon assistants – neither of whom want to be hunched over clients whilst washing, cutting or styling hair. “We consider comfort from both sides: the client’s and the stylist’s. Adequate neck and back support, and ample cushioning are little things that go a long way in terms of overall client experience,” says Shadi Eskandari, procurement and logistic manager at Tips and Toes, a UAE-based nail, hair and spa chain. “Our stylists work considerable hours on their feet. The last thing we want are repetitive strain injuries, so we don’t want them to feel stooped or hunched over, which will eventually lead to chronic back problems,” she continues. To achieve a suitable comfort level for all

You must consider multi-layered criteria that encompass the practicalities of the salon and its visual appeal. On a practical level, the size, layout and sanitary requirements of the salon play a part in the decision for both back wash units and cutting chairs. According to Thomas Luis, commercial manager at Madi International, one of the leading providers of hair and beauty equipment and products in the region, leaving a “safe distance between styling chairs” is an absolute must. Whittingdon adds: “All the chairs have to fit neatly in the salon with room for the therapists and clients to move around them.” To meet the space and layout needs it may be that you have to consider fewer chairs or models that are slimmer and more streamlined in design. For back wash units, plumbing is the most likely determining factor in where the units can be placed within the salon. “Always liaise with the plumber to ensure you can get correct water pressure and temperature at all times,” advocates Whitehead. The aesthetics of the furniture must not be neglected either. Furniture should complement and enhance the overall design of the salon – whether it is traditional, modern or something a little more unique. Back wash units and areas can be particularly important in making or breaking the style of a salon and the client’s experience within it. “The salon wash units should be aesthetically pleasing and a not a monstrosity of mismatched furniture which has been placed in a dark corner,” cautions Malik. Whitehead concurs, adding:

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014 Tips and Toes

39-42 PBGCC SEPT14 Salon Equipment.indd 41

20/08/2014 12:26

salon furniture

professionalbeauty.ae

42 “The area should be quiet and relaxing with softer lighting for an excellent experience for the clients.”

Safety & hygiene Governments or local authorities are the best starting point for guidance in this area. Dubai Municipality, for example, has a list of health and safety requirements for salons and these extend into areas such as layout and furniture. For example, at the time of writing, for salons with more than two chairs, the distance between each chair must not be less than a metre. “The industry standard is a bare minimum for us. We try to factor in more, considering the spaciousness of ours chairs and sinks, as well as the overall comfort,” says Eskandari. Municipality regulations also state that chairs must be comfortable, crack free and easily cleaned and sterilised. Cutting chairs and back wash units that are stain resistant and easy to clean are a necessity for salons, and be sure to avoid designs that could allow hair or other elements to collect or provide a breeding area for bacteria. In selecting fabrics, choose those that can be effectively cleaned with disinfectant wipes.

Durability: Back wash units and cutting chairs are heavily used items, so flimsy frames and light fabrics are an absolute no go. Instead suppliers like the Nazih Group, which provides products from a number of leading brands including Maletti, Takara, Ceriotti and AGV, recommends chairs with stainless steel frames or chrome fixtures, which are less likely to rust, and a material such as leather for seat covers. At the very least, any materials should be stain resistant. The addition of memory foam bases and backs can add both comfort and longevity to chairs. “Manufacturers can supply additional disposable covers; once a chair

gets shabby it should be removed and replaced with new furniture,” adds Whitehead. For back wash units, Luis suggests salons choose a ceramic and stain-proof basin, good quality water mixers and water housing and waterproof materials.

The Maletti Mercury wash unit, available from the Nazhi Group

Functionality: This factor is primarily governed by the services the salon offers. If services extend beyond hair care into beauty and customers regularly come in to have their nails done at the same time as their hair, then the choice of furniture must reflect this. If pedicures are part of the plan, then look at chairs without foot rests and with the ability to rotate. You will need space to place the foot spa; the client will also need to be able to comfortably place her feet in the spa. Opting for bigger, more comfortable chairs with added accessories or built-in features is also a wise choice says the Nazih Group.

Budget: We mentioned the importance of budget in the purchase of any salon item – but now is the time to underline the importance of cutting chairs and back wash units in the budget. From a fixtures, fittings and furniture perspective, these two items have a massive impact on the client experience. Whittingdon has already highlighted that comfortable, quality chairs may not be readily acknowledged by the client, but those that cause discomfort most certainly will. So when you’re drawing up your initial budget – whether your refurbishing or starting from scratch – ensure that these two items are high up the priority list, at the very least when it comes to furniture. PB

Cutting it with kids Adults are not the only people that look for comfort and relaxation when visiting the hair salon; children do too. In fact, satisfying youngsters can be an even greater challenge. Caboodle, a pamper and play salon for children and part of the same group as Sisters Beauty Lounge, is all too aware of this fact but cleverly utilises its cutting chairs as a way of engaging its young clients and instilling a sense of comfort within them. “Comfort is a huge factor. It can be a daunting experience for a child to go into a salon as it’s an unfamiliar environment,” explains Jane Whittingdon, general manager, of Sisters Beauty Lounge. Alongside selecting children’s chairs that are safe and manoeuvrable, Caboodle also looks for those that will capture the attention of little ones. “We select chairs that are entertaining in themselves such as a cutting chair shaped as an airplane or car. Keeping children occupied during the hair-cutting process is essential for their safety so they don’t move around and are occupied for long enough for us to give them the perfect cut!”, she adds.

Caboodle

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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20/08/2014 12:26

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19/8/14 10:44:52

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20/08/2014 13:14

spa interview

professionalbeauty.ae

Sea change Marine skincare brand Repêchage is planning to make waves in the UAE spa and beauty market. Fiona Vlemmiks catches up with Lauren Streeter, global education leader, to find out how

epêchage, a French word meaning “to rescue”

Seaweed itself is virtually a complete ingredient; it contains

or “a second chance”, promises clients a second

18 amino acids, 12 vitamins 42 trace elements and minerals,

chance at healthy skin. Although it has been

just in that one sea plant! Seaweed is a concentration of

available in the UAE for the past decade, it is

seawater. In the human body, our plasma, lymphatic fluids

now under the helm of new distributor Aruna

and amniotic fluid are virtually identical to seawater, so it

Singh who is aiming to make the brand as successful here as

makes seaweed the perfect ingredient. All our seaweeds are

it is in the USA and Europe.

eco-certified. We work with beautiful botanicals; the best

Repêchage’s global education leader Lauren Streeter has

from the earth and the best from the sea.

travelled from the US to help spread the word to industry

“Our brand is broken into collections though, as not all

professionals in our region and when I meet her she is

skins are the same. We have collections for advanced

glowing with enthusiasm.

skincare needs such as hyperpigmentation to preventative

“There is so much opportunity here,” she tells me.

care for mature skin needs. We also have body products and

“Repêchage was born back in 1980 and it’s now in 30

healthy skin mineral make-up, which is not only mineral but

different countries worldwide. We’re trying to build the

vitamin-rich.”

market here [in the Middle East] and we really want work

Streeter believes that the marine ingredients in Repêchage

with all locations, from resort destination spas, to medical

products offer an ideal antidote to the harsh climate in the

spas, to regular day spas and salons. We have a vast variety

Middle East, where dehydrated skin is a major concern.

of products that can work in so many different types of businesses.”

“We have something called C-serum, which is a highly concentrated seaweed extract rich in vitamins, so it’s like a

The company was created by entrepreneurial aesthetician

drink for your skin. All of the vitamins, trace elemts, minerals

Lydia Sarfati who has written extensively on how to achieve

and amino acids are active in the serum. “It’s my favourite

spa business success. Businesses stocking Repêchage can

product and probably one of our best-selling products all

join the Spa Day Beauté Institute and access business

over the world – I always say that it will take your skin from a

support and advice.

raisin back to that beautiful juicy grape!”

Says Streeter, “With Spa Day Beauté there are multi levels

Repêchage has also recently launched a facial bar concept

so we can select what will work best for you in your location.

that is sure to appeal to time-pressed UAE residents. “Our

We have a silver, a gold, and a platinum membership.

facial bar concept is going to be a really neat thing for the

Through this membership we give businesses additional

Dubai market,” says Streeter. “I am hearing that clients don’t

marketing,

have time for a full day at the spa so this concept offers

phenomenal book called Success at Your Fingertips which

treatments that are done in a short amount of time, yet

includes things such as what to look for when hiring

are still result-orientated for that person on the go. The

employees, pay scales, the dimensions of a spa room, what

opportunities are plentiful.” PB

tools

and

training.

Lydia

has

written

equipment is needed, what is not. She is really focused on helping businesses succeed.” Sarfati was also one of the foremost champions of seaweed therapy in the ’70s and this is still at the heart of the

To find our more about Repêchage in the Middle East call: +971 4 339 70 90.

brand. “We use seaweed in everything,” confirms Streeter.

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

45 PBGCC SEPT14 Repechage.indd 45

20/08/2014 12:41

hair step-by-step

professionalbeauty.ae

wave RIDING THE

Achieve the perfect straight to wavy blow dry, brought to you by Salon Educators

nowden Hillâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blow dry basic tutorial demonstrates a straight to wavy blow dry featuring pointers on product use, tension, smooth defined curls and back combing. The final result provides light reflecting, loopy, luscious curls for an enduring look, bringing session techniques to the salon.

Before Model has straight, flat hair.

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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hair step-by-step

professionalbeauty.ae

47 1

Take a horizontal section across the occipital bone â&#x20AC;&#x201C; apply volume spray to the roots. Repeat this process, working methodically up the head.

Work in your original position behind your model and apply a large Velcro roller to this section, incorporating the ends. The roller is secured on its base with a silver section clip. Work with the same method throughout this panel.

Roll the ends and mid-length with a round brush and apply heat, then allow the hair to cool in the brush. Then brush the section through and loop with your fingers. Repeat this process throughout the lower portion of the hair.

Apply mousse to the centre-parting area and mid-lengths. Rough dry the product into the hair to about 90 per cent dry.

Use a hot conical wand to further define and fix the curl. Place the hair in at the mid-lengths with the narrow end facing downwards. Wrap the mid-lengths and ends around the wand. This will create a narrower curl through the ends. Hold for a few seconds then remove the wand. This hair is left to cool.

Apply the same process and place two rollers horizontally on the sides. Repeat the same process in the front side areas with less elevation. These rollers are dragged off their base.

Stand behind the client, use the dryer from the front and direct it back with a nozzle attachment using a high heat. Use a round brush to create tension and apply heat down the cuticle. Refine the front hairline and continue to work the rest of the perimeter.

With your dryer, work with the lower portion of the hair. Work with horizontal sections from the round of the head. Work from the roots through the mid-lengths with even tension and the hair directed downwards to smooth.

Remove the rollers and place a central parting. Lightly backcomb the entire shape working horizontally up the head with loose sections. In the very top sections, increase the back combing for added volume.

Finished Look Shiny, luscious curls that are long-lasting. Use a ceramic medium-sized, round brush. Take a front section approximately 3-4cm deep. Place the brush in at the roots. Apply the heat to the hair as you move down the hair shaft to the mid-lengths.

Credits: Hair by Snowden Hill for MyHairDressers.com. Images by Andy Gilbert, make-up by Melissa Bourne. MyHairDressers.com is the sister site of Salon Educators, the UAE premiere hairdressing academy, based in Dubai, which runs internationally City and Guilds recognised courses in hairdressing and beauty. Contact +971 4 452 84 33.

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

46-47 PBGCC SEPT14 Hair Steps.indd 47

20/08/2014 12:41

hair

professionalbeauty.ae

The Hair DOCTOR

Our expert Dr Mike Ryan, guides us through optimal scalp health this month and explains how a healthy scalp leads to healthy hair

etox seems to be the buzzword of the moment and people are now asking about detoxing their scalps. While strictly speaking you cannot actually detox your scalp, you certainly can do things to improve it. Hair grows and looks its best when supported by a healthy scalp. Below are my top tips to getting your clients hair and scalp healthy and in great shape.

Stress Less Stress can inadvertently alter hormone levels and cause dandruff, itching and hair loss. To combat anxiety, clients should schedule in a time each week to relax and unwind. Great go-tos are yoga, Pilates, meditation and breathing exercises. Reading a book, listening to classical music and taking leisurely walks can also help calm the body and mind.

Tone the scalp daily Just like the face, the scalp will benefit immensely from a daily toner. It helps to reduce excess sebum and clear “unfriendly” bacteria, creating healthier looking hair and a better environment for hair growth. My suggestion is Nutrimine scalp toner and stimulator.

Exfoliate the scalp weekly Use a weekly scalp mask that encourages healthy scalp flora. Again, this is a great way to optimise hair growth. Weekly exfoliation helps to clear away accumulated dead skin cells and soothes stressed and tired scalps. For a stimulation boost try Sulphex scalp cleanse.

Limit full-fat dairy products If clients are prone to dandruff cutting back on full-fat dairy products will help ensure they have a happier scalp. Dairy can exacerbate flaking and/or itching in certain individuals and is often one of the worst triggers. Suggest clients try soy, almond or rice milk with their morning coffee, or switch to skimmed milk.

Shampoo frequently Tell clients to shampoo as often as they can. A clean scalp supports hair growth and also adds body and bounce. Just like the rest of the body, the hair and scalp can get quite dirty by the end of the day, making it more prone to spots, irritation and bacterial build-up.

Tackle dandruff head-on Common dandruff is very easy to clear, but ignoring it can lead to a host of problems ranging from an accumulation of flakes to hair loss. Recommend Tarinol shampoo once or twice weekly. It’s as simple as that.

Brush gently One day of “bad brushing” isn’t going to ruin the hair. However, accumulative stress from styling can cause widespread breakage. Remember, the hair, unlike your skin, is technically dead tissue once above the scalp and won’t regenerate itself. Treat the hair with care and within a few months there will be a real difference. Try using brushes that are gentle on locks and scalp and always start at the ends of the hair when moving tangles.

Wheat treatment A pre-shampoo conditioner will benefit the hair immediately. However, continued use has a profound effect. It hydrates, strengthens, adds elasticity and creates bounce and manageability. This allows hair to grow longer, stronger and healthier.

Turn down the heat Applying heat to already dried hair can actually boil the water in the hair’s cortex (its core). This causes the keratin to melt and the hair to snap. When blow-drying, start on a higher heat and gradually reduce the setting as the hair dries. If the ends look slightly frizzy use a smoothing cream and not an extra few seconds of heat, to smooth. Again, this is very much accumulative. Even if you overheat the hair only once a week, that adds up to 52 days a year. Two days a week? One hundred and four days of extra breakage, and so on. PB Dr Mike Ryan is a trichologist working exclusively in Vivandi’s HairSpa, a leading hair restoration centre in Dubai, which specialises in effective, non-surgical hair loss treatments. Vivandi also supplies hair loss products for professional use. For more information visit www.hairspa.ae or www.vivandi.ae

If you have a question for Dr Mike, please email fiona@professionalbeauty.ae

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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autumn hair

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Maria Dowling, creative director at mariadowling salon talks hair trends - and how to interpret them in your salon

Follower

Glossy locks created by mariadowling salon

OF FASHION

he first thing that comes to mind when talking about hair trends is that no one can truly predict a hair trend. Very non-committal I know, but unless a trend is actually upon us (ombre crept up on us very quickly, yet has stayed strong through seasons), it is very difficult to know what is coming. Yes, we follow what is happening on the streets of Europe, critique the latest A-lister’s daring new colour, and avidly observe next season’s shows. However, none of this necessarily applies to what can be worn by your average woman who steps into the salon: a bleach blonde crop isn’t going to suit the majority of clients who come to mariadowling, so what do we do? We filter it and make it work for the needs of our clients. Unlike fashion, hair trends don’t change with the season. They can’t be worn by everyone and they aren’t as defined. In the hair industry, we like to take elements of most trends and throw them into a melting pot to create our own take on how we feel the trends are developing. Most importantly, we adapt it to suit our market. The evolution of ombre is our greatest example. We now see ombre as a technique that is here to stay in one form or another. Thanks to the rise of ombre, my Arabic clients can now wear blonde and it looks amazing against their skin tone as the lighter colours are near the shoulders and not around the skin. Dark-haired celebrities like Kim

and Khloe Kardashian are proving that, with their grown out roots and tousled hair, blonde really does work with the ombre technique. Admittedly, ombre has been around for quite a few seasons now. The first adopters of ombre, who are a little bored with their now “mass market” style, have tried to move away from it but for one reason or another, keep going back to it. So we would give them something a little different to keep it fresh and edgy. For us, it is important to watch what celebrities are doing with their hair as that influences what our clients are requesting in the salon. Our staff room notice board is full of magazine cuttings, celebrity styles and images, and we update this literally on a daily basis. This year, we have seen a big increase in clients freshening up their long locks and cutting them into a LOB (long bob). It’s an edgier look, sported by the likes of Alexa Chung and Heidi Klum, and looks great worn either straight or wavy – a very versatile change to the traditional long hair. We also see matt colours coming into the equation for autumn/winter but personally I think nothing looks better than conditioned, glossy locks so I’m not convinced it will be a lasting trend. That’s the beauty of trends; we don’t dictate them, our clients do! PB

For more information on the mariadowling salon call +971 4345 42 25 or visit www.mariadowling.com Maria Dowling

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interview

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COAT

OF MANY

colours

Aloxxi offers vibrant reds

As the founder of OPI, George W Schaeffer’s passion for colour helped shape the professional nail industry. Now, he is creating a new blueprint for the professional hair market with Aloxxi Professional Hair Colour and Care. Fiona Vlemmiks catches up with him to find out why With OPI, you built a hugely successful company. Why did you want to purchase Aloxxi? I bought Aloxxi because I wanted to continue my passion for the colour business and create an exceptionally good product that delivered what hairdressers need.

Tell us about the Alooxi colour personality concept The first step is taking out our consultation book. By showing clients the endless colour options and demystifying the colour process, we are helping to strengthen the relationship [between salon and client]. Today’s consumer is interested in facts. Telling the client what is being used on their hair is a critical component in building a strong relationship between colourist and client. I think of it like cooking, you need great ingredients but also a great chef. My goal is to help clients understand the power not just of our product, but of the professional hairdresser.

George Schaeffer

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Why do you believe the “colour personality” concept will resonate with consumers and stylists? I believe in the colour personality concept for the same reason I believed in the power of knowing the colour on your nails; it allows the client to be knowledgeable and invested in their service. Knowing your colour personality creates brand loyalty, not just to the product but to the salon that provides the service. For the hairdresser, informing the customer of what their colour personality is and having them ask for it only strengthens the relationship. It also enables us to drive customers to Aloxxi salons through our advertising, public relations and social media campaigns; we are committed to helping salons increase their business!

How does the hair market differ from the nail market and how have you had to adapt? Change is hard; it takes you out of your comfort zone. Changing one’s hair colour isn’t as simple as changing one’s polish. One of the biggest challenges has been getting hairdressers to take a chance on something new. They don’t want to risk disappointing their customers so they tend to stick to what they know. We have had to adapt to that reluctance to change, it is why we have invested so heavily in education this past year. Our focus has been on making stylists comfortable with changing their clients’ colour

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interview

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so that change is fun, easy, and inspiring. When you give people the tools they need, change becomes an opportunity to grow, professionally and financially.

You are reinventing Aloxxi’s image. What advice do you have for a salon or stylist trying to reinvent their business? The best advice I could give someone is not to be afraid to try new things. So try Aloxxi! The next best piece of advice would be not to be guided by price alone. Customers come to you for a great service. Their number one concern is the experience they will receive, that you create, not the price. If you deliver a professional quality service, customers will pay what you deserve to charge.

What trends do you forecast for the hair industry? Consumers are more educated and information is so much more readily available than in the past. Consumers want quick, easy and less expensive beauty solutions and think they can learn how to do everything themselves on the internet. It is our job to meet their needs and offer transparency, which is what we are trying to do. By educating the consumers about the power of professional colour and the professionals who apply it, we hope to turn the tide.

Aloxxi can offer beautiful blonde tones

“We spend a lot of time listening to our customers and the consumers they serve to better understand current trends and gaps in the market”

Successful businesses need to evolve and adapt, how do you manage to keep your business current? We spend a lot of time listening to our customers and the consumers they serve to better understand current trends and gaps in the market. We use that information to seek out new technologies, and create innovative new products that meet the needs of both stylists and their clients.

When you Google the name George Schaeffer the search results bring up OPI and your contributions to the nail/beauty industry. Now that you’re involved in the hair colour business what would you like it to say regarding Aloxxi and your contributions to hair colour? I would love to see it say that I created an iconic brand and helped grow the professional beauty industry and the businesses of hairdressers globally.

Tell us about Aloxxi’s four F’s formula = Fashion, Food, Fun, and Family. It came from me! In my life, following these four F’s has led to success and happiness. I grew up in the Fashion industry and have always been aware of its power to change someone’s look and outlook. Food is just a basic, I believe you can’t underestimate the power of a good pizza. It goes a long way. I always try to have Fun in whatever I am doing. And above all else, Family is the most important thing we have and should always put it ahead of our work. I have been blessed with a great family, and to be a part of the professional beauty family for so many years! Aloxxi is distributed in the UAE by Beauty Essentials. For more information on the brand please contact: +971 5 596 99 82. PB

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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autumn nails

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Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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autumn nails

fall TONES As the blazing summer days give way to the cooler autumn, nail hues follow suit, writes Andrea Anastasiou

his season, nails are incredibly enticing with a number of great application techniques and stunning new colours giving the industry a myriad of options to play with. With the blazing summer days giving way to a cooler autumn, it’s time to tone down the nautical blues, flame oranges and lush teals that we were seeing during the hotter months and welcome some more understated colours. This year’s autumn ranges are a mixture of red with tones of black, as well as nudes and greys. There is also an exciting range of design trends that will be big this season, including the ever-popular matte look that was a big hit late last year, as well as two-tone nails.

Catwalk colours Autumn typically marks the start of more subdued colours and this year is no exception. Ali Hardy, brand and marketing manager at The Nail Spa, says that by looking at this season’s catwalk trends and the nail looks on the runways, she’s predicting that red polishes with black undertones will be prevalent. Additionally, metallic nails are always a huge trend every autumn and winter, especially during the party season, and will be popular again this year. “A compelling collection of powdery whites, greys, taupes and nudes will be big this season. This palette is chic and easily wearable by women of the UAE who want to strike the happy balance between fashion and function,” she says. With Halloween nearly upon us, some nail companies have taken inspiration from the ghoulish icons of the holiday. Charlotte Knight, founder and creative director of Ciaté, says that she always gravitates towards dark nails for

autumn. “I usually go for my rouge noir ‘Dangerous Affair’ but this year I’m excited about the vampy trend seen on the catwalks. For this trend I’ll be wearing Ciaté’s new Haute House collection, full of rich ‘inky’ polishes to coat your nails in just one stroke,” she explains. OPI will also be following the trend of nudes that was seen on the runways. Their palette for fall is very diverse and was inspired by the Nordic region. “Neutral shades worn in spring will be carried into fall, while brown hues of chocolate, cinnamon and caramel are new for the season,” says Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI executive and artistic director. “Gold is a great accent colour; it complements the gold trend in jewellery and provides another way to accessorise autumn fashion,” she continues. Weiss-Fischmann also says that another autumn trend in nails are bright shades of pink and coral. “With so many options, consumers can experiment until they find a unique look,” she concludes. KOKO Nail will be introducing six colours, from deep purples to dark teals. “This autumn the trend is dark shades like deep blue (KOKO Nail Deep Indigo), violet (KOKO Nail Lavender Fields), seaweed green (KOKO Nail First Crush) along with shades of brown and beige (KOKO Nail Shopaholic and Stolen Moments), which are all-timers,” says Kawthar Makahla Al Shamsi, founder of KOKO Nail and CEO of BCI group of investment companies. Meanwhile, Spa Ritual is introducing rich, deep colour palettes with a Middle Eastern theme. These will include various shades of gold and dark reds.

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autumn nails

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Hardy says that gel will continue to be big for the season and that the technique is always a favourite with clients at the company’s salons. “Women like to make that perfect mani-pedi last longer,” she says. “Bio Sculpture Gel is our gel product of choice. It has the ability to strengthen and promote growth, and is available in an array of 150 colour shades.” Weiss-Fischmann also specifies that the gel category is continuing to grow; she says there are more OPI gel colour options than ever before. Meanwhile, Knight from Ciaté says that glossy short dark nails are always a trend for autumn and that gels work great with this technique. “I am super excited about the launch of our new at-home Ciate gel system Geltox, which is used as a topcoat, cured like a gel, and worn over any colour for an extreme gloss finish for days,” she says. Gels will also continue to be important for Orly, as the company adds more colours, glitters and textures to the Orly Gel FX range this season. Techniques are also due to be very creative this autumn. Ella Al Tayeb, brand manager from Momentum Beauty, distributor of CND, says that different tools will be used to create various textures, effects and designs. “These include stamps, stencils, sponges and CND additives,” she explains.

Daring designs Away from gel, a number of edgy design trends are gaining popularity again for this season. The matte nail is back

after making an appearance last autumn/winter, and nail product companies are really expecting it to take off this season. “Fun looks can be created with matte and shiny polishes,” says Hardy. She also says that the two-tone nail will be popular this season. “We have seen a lot of half moon manis, contrasting French tips and ombre nails during the autumn/winter runway shows and it’s a great way to wear the season’s colour combinations,” she explains. Knight agrees that the French manicure is getting reinvented for the season, which is something to look out for. “I am keen to try a nude nail with a dark tip for an edgy take on this classic look. To get the cleanest finish, paint the nail with a sheer nude for your base and leave it to dry. Then apply hole reinforcement stickers onto the tip of the nail, leaving a gap for the French tip, and paint with a black or navy blue polish,” she recommends. Claire Gittus from Aspire Beauty Trading, distributor of Spa Ritual in the UAE, says that marbling will also be an important design trend during autumn. The effect is achieved by mixing three colours on top of each other and dragging the polish up and down the nail while it is still wet. One thing’s for certain, as temperatures begin to drop nail colours are also decidedly cool this season. PB

CND

Talon techniques

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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SPATEC 14 Middle East

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treatment focus

Get shorty We get to grips with LPG’s recently launched Shorty Lipomassage, a new express treatment promising long-lasting results

he newest treatment from LPG does not offer a quick fix, but it does offer real results with minimal treatment downtime, according to Ludovic Loffreda, CEO of LPG Bella Concept. The new treatment techniques, which offer targeted treatments, can now be performed in 15 minutes – as opposed to the 35-minute Lipomassage previously offered by LPG. The 100 per cent natural technique is administered with the machine’s new ergodrive head, which is equipped with LPG’s patented, independent motorised rollers. The roll up, roll in and roll out action gently, yet intensively, conditions skin tissue to eliminate fat deposits, revitalise blood and lymphatic circulation and reactivate lipolysis. Lipomassage is also able to stimulate the collagen and elastin production and firm slackening skin. Loffreda predicts that the Shorty Lipomassage will be a best-seller. “For women, the machine offers arm firming, back firming, stomach firming, thigh firming and waistline slimming. For men, it will target the pectorals, back, stomach and waist and thighs,” he says. The latest treatment adds to the extensive range of contouring offerings by the company. LPG was created

in 1986 by Louis-Paul Guitay after he burned 70 per cent of his body in a car accident. Much of his treatment involved manual lymphatic drainage but the method was painful and inconsistent, as it was performed by different people. To address this, Guitay looked for a machine-based alternative and the LPG mechanostimulation was born. The company offers techniques under two umbrellas, Endermologie for the body and Endermolift for the face. LPG operates in both the beauty and medical markets and, as such, all of its products have strong scientific basis and backing. The company operates in 110 countries worldwide and Loffreda believes the service that they offer partner salons, spas and clinics is unrivalled. “In terms of support, what we offer to our customer is unique, we are always listening to what they have to say, always reacting to different requests, and we are marketing them every single month in magazines,” he explains. “We receive 50 calls per day, 50 emails from people asking people for LPG sessions and we always refer them [to salons and spas] according to location. We are very, very helpful – I’m not saying that – it’s the customers that are telling us that! “With LPG the return on investment is very high. It takes money to make money so people have to invest but they invest in a brand that is well-known and they are paid back in a short time. Because of our reputation and our expertise, I believe that we have unparalleled customer satisfaction.” PB

For more information on LPG please call +971 4 380 4 1 23

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2014 global spa & wellness summit

A focus on the future, the return of the Wellness Tourism Congress and a high-profile speaker schedule are some of the things to look forward to at the eighth annual Global Spa & Wellness Summit in October

Global A

aking place at the Four Seasons, Marrakech, on September 10-12, this year’s Global Spa & Wellness Summit (GSWS) will encapsulate the theme of Fast Forward – exploring the future of the rapidly changing and expanding spa and wellness industry. For the eighth year, the annual event will gather leading figures from within and outside of the sector for three days of discussions, workshops and networking events. The agenda features a diverse combination of highprofile names from around the world. Renowned architect Bjarke Ingels will share his architecture and design expertise, with a particular emphasis on sustainable design, while economist Dr Kjell A Nordström, co-author of the bestselling Funky Business, will look at the way shifting demographics and consumer demand will affect the spa and wellness industry. Other speakers include Paul Price, chief executive of consultancy firm Creative Realities, who is set to apply his marketing know-how to the spa and wellness industry, and Daniel Friedland. The chief executive and founder of Super Smart Health, which offers wellness-focused coaching,

seminars and executive leadership programmes, and co-creator of the website Wellness Evidence (previously known as Spa Evidence), Friedland will discuss how advancements in brain science impact health, beauty and wellbeing. The list of speakers also includes two pioneers of the early wellness industry: John Travis and Donald Ardell. John Travis opened the world’s first wellness centre in California, the Wellness Resource Center, in 1975, created a wellbeing assessment system known as the wellness inventory and is the author of works such as the Wellbeing Workbook. A prominent figure in the wellness industry for decades, Donald Ardell has published a series of influential books, including 14 Days to a Wellness Lifestyle, Die Healthy: Sixteen Steps to Wellness and Real Wellness: What’s New in Wellness Today. The 2014 summit will also see the return of the Global Wellness Tourism Congress (GWTC), following the success of the inaugural event in Delhi, India last year. Held on September 10, the GWTC will examine the fast-growing wellness tourism sector and look at the economic possibilities it presents. Attendees will include health and

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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2014 global spa & wellness summit

AGENDA tourism ministers from around the world, and experts in related fields such as medical tourism. Among the speakers at the congress will be Yolanda Perdomo, director of the World Tourism Organization’s (UNWTO) affiliate members programme, who will discuss tourism trends and their affect on wellness tourism and CBS News travel editor Peter Greenberg, who will record his radio show onsite. Greenberg will also take to the stage with Jean-Claude Baumgarten, the former president of the World Travel & Tourism Council, to debate the wider global impact of wellness tourism. The summit will also feature the annual student challenge, which sees students from regional and international universities compete for a selection of cash prizes, with the top prize being US$1,000. This year’s competition, which charges participants with creating the “spa and wellness concepts of the future”, involves students from the Al Akhawayn University and the Mohammed V University in Morocco, The American University in Cairo and the Essec Business School in France. The awards will be judged by a panel of senior industry executives that include Andrew Gibson, vice president of spa and wellness at Fairmont

Raffles Hotels and Resorts, Sheila McCann, general manager of Chiva-Som, Simon Casson, regional vice president and general manager at Four Seasons and keynote speaker Bjarke Ingels. The winners of this year’s infographic and videographic competition, on the theme of Fast Forward to the Future of Spa and Wellness, will also be revealed at the summit. Entries should “reflect [entrants’] unique vision of spa and wellness”, with the competition judged by a panel that includes celebrated director, producer and cinematographer Louie Schwartzberg. The winner and first and second runner up will split money from a US$4,500 prize pot. For the second year running, the GSWS will comprise industry-specific forums, taking detailed looks at key segments and topics such as destination spas, hot springs spas and education. To reflect the location of the 2014 summit, workshops that delve into Moroccan spa traditions, including the hammam and the production of argan oil, will also be on the agenda. PB

For more information about the 2014 Global Spa & Wellness Summit, see www.globalspaandwellness summit.org

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treatment reviews

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Relax and revive We test the latest face and body treatments

Sodashi’s Signature Body Massage The lowdown: Wholeness, purity and radiance are the meaning of the Sanskrit word Sodashi, an Australian spa brand that employs only therapeutic-grade, ethicallysourced, essential oils and plant actives to effectively heal and nurture. I tried the brand’s signature massage at The Spa at The Address Downtown Dubai. My therapist explained that the massage would be based on my body’s specific needs; focusing on balancing and boosting my energy levels as well as removing toxins and ironing out any stiffness in my muscles and joints.

Dia De Chicas package The lowdown: The Melia Dubai has created Dia De Chicas, a Spanish-themed ladies’ package incorporating spa, sunshine and refreshments. I tested the day out with my friend who is pregnant and in need of some rest and relaxation. We received a warm welcome at the hotel’s YHI spa and were supplied with comfy robes, towels and slippers before being shown to our cabana by the pool at the hotel’ Estrellas rooftop bar. YHI spa has a comprehensive menu comprising facials, holistic therapies and a plethora of massage options ranging from Swedish and Thai massage to Abhyanga – a deep massage using warm essential oils. Our package included either a 30-minute back massage, a Chiquita Facial using Natura Bissé products, or a full manicure and pedicure. I opted for the 30-minute back massage and my friend for a manicure and pedicure. My massage commenced with some wonderful

I found it to be a deeply relaxing massage using unique, smooth stroking movements to encourage and increase lymphatic circulation and balance my energy. Best for: Relaxation PB says: I was lulled into a state of bliss and just about managed to stay awake during the massage. I loved the smell of the products and my therapist was obviously passionate about the brand. The massage left me feeling wonderful – lighter, relaxed and with a clearer head. This feeling lasted for a few days afterwards. Tested by: Fiona Vlemmiks stretching before my therapist got to work on my back, neck and shoulders, kneading out the knots and tension. My friend enjoyed a lovely manicure before returning to the pool for refreshments. Best for: A group spa experience PB Says: This was one of the best massages I’ve ever experienced, the pressure was wonderful and I didn’t want it to end! Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks and Shelina Begum

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treatment reviews

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SensAsia Skinni-Mini

Spabike

The Lowdown: This treatment is part of the spa chain’s newly-launched SensConscious range of treatments, which combines slimming, sculpting and anti-cellulite therapies. I tried the de-bloating treatment, Skinni-Mini, which promises to tighten, tone and reduce water retention from the thighs and abdomen in a 90-minute treatment. After taking my measurements, the treatment commenced with some light body brushing to stimulate my circulation and help shift toxins before pads, connected to the iontophoresis machine, were applied to my body and covered by a clay mask. The machine is designed to omit galvanic and faradic currents to propel the products into my body, tone and flush out toxins. The algae mask aids detoxification and helps conduct the current. My therapist explained each process so that I was completely at ease and the intensity of the current was chosen in line with my comfort levels. As the machine worked on my stomach and thighs, I was given a wonderful massage that was so deeply relaxing that I barely noticed any of the tingly sensation caused by the machine. After the session I was measured and I found that I had lost a few inches. PB says: A course of around 10 sessions is recommended but the results were visible immediately and I felt lighter and slimmer after the treatment, as well as completely relaxed and rejuvenated thanks to the massage. Tested by: Fiona Vlemmiks

The Lowdown: Spabike is a hydro-massage bath with an integrated biking system for an aquatic workout. Created in France, the session combines exercise, hydrotherapy and massage, offering participants a soothing way to get and stay in shape. The concept has created a craze in Europe and I tried it out at the Balance Wellness Club in Dubai. I exercised in a private room, wearing my swimming costume. The unit was easy to get into and operate, and as the water only covered my lower half, I didn’t get my hair or face wet. I could adopt different positions on the bike, such a gentle cycling position or a more intense spinning-type posture. The water and massage felt pleasant but once I tried the more intense positions, I could definitely feel that I was exercising. Exercising in water increases resistance and builds up endurance, and the current generated by the jets has a draining effect on the fat. I normally avoid exercise bikes at the gym but this session was fun and time flew by. I couldn’t believe that I had burned 600 calories in just 30 minutes at the end of the session. PB Says: Spabike left me completely exhilarated but not exhausted. It has to be one of the most pleasant and timeefficient ways to exercise! Best for: People on the go who also need to relax and stay in shape. Tested by: Fiona Vlemmiks

Point Zero Floatation experience The lowdown: Mimicking the contents of the Dead Sea, the salt solution in the floatation pool aims to allow the bather to float effortlessly on the water’s surface without having to use any special breathing techniques or contracting the muscles. The Point Zero centre, which is located in Abu Dhabi, offersthe option of both salt-water cabins and pods. The cabins are spacious with a small pool and individually-controlled lights and music, and are recommended for first time users or those who are nervous of confined spaces. The pods offer a more intense experience due to the smaller cabin area. The cabin experience was selected for me and I was provided with a shower cap, earplugs and an inflatable pillow for comfort. I got into the pool, which had a temperature of 34.8 to reflect skin temperature. Initially, I was nervous about lying back completely. Once I did, however, the sensation of letting go – both physically and mentally – was wonderful. I felt completely light and free – quite unlike anything I have ever experienced before. Afterwards,

my skin and hair was slightly encrusted with salt but this washed off easily. PB says: The treatment is said to have a host of benefits, from boosting self-esteem to aiding weight loss, and it was one of the most relaxing experiences I have ever had. After the session, I even found that my speech was slower! Best for: Physical and mental relaxation Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks

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72 Nouveau Contour micropigmentation The brand offers a variety of micropigmentation, or semipermanent treatments for the body and face and I tried the black eyeliner on the top of my eyelids. My face was cleansed free of makeup and the sealed needle was inserted in the machine in front of me so I could be assured that it was completely hygienic. The skin next to my eyelashes had to first be “punched” with the needle without any colour application and then the anesthetic solution was placed. It was quite painful [when the skin was punched without anesthetic] but once the anesthetic was placed, I couldn’t feel much of the treatment and I was comfortable. As the colour was applied, I was given further anesthetic, at intervals, to ensure my comfort. Finally I saw the result, which was very natural. After the procedure, I was told to apply Vaseline on the area for a week. PB says: My eyelids were swollen for around three days but there was no pain and now they look great, meaning I spend less time on make-up application. Tested by: Ramona Feraru

Cocoon nail experience The lowdown: Cocoon is a new Dubai-based nail spa which aims to provide high quality treatments in a serene environment. . The venue offers complete manicure and pedicure services, as well as facials, massage and hair removal. I tested a manicure and a paraffin pedicure softening treatment for dry feet. Three therapists worked on me as I relaxed in the comfy chair, admiring the spa’s soft lighting and tranquil décor. My feet were put into warm paraffin booties and the sensation was immediately soothing. As my hands and feet were worked on, the massage commenced. The heated shells glided over my body, being applied with varying pressures and techniques and it felt deeply relaxing and comforting, releasing much tension in my upper body. I closed my eyes and drifted away and almost forgot that I was having a manicure and pedicure! When I finally opened my eyes, my feet and toe nails were beautifully painted and I left feeling refreshed and enlivened. PB says: This was a very relaxing manicure and pedicure experience. The staff members worked in perfect synergy to ensure that the different treatments slotted together to make for a great overall experience. Best for: Time-pressed clients Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks

SoSpa Asian Fusion Massage The new So Spa at the Sofitel Dubai Downtown opened its doors this summer and is offering ancient, therapeutic traditions from around the world that - combined with the latest in French cosmetology. I tried the the Asian fusion massage, which provides more than an hour of relaxation and draws on three cultures; Chinese, Malaysian and Indian, to create a truly different massage experience. As the techniques differ quite significantly from a general Swedish massage, my therapist carefully explained each element of the treatment. It began with a lovely foot washing ritual before I was taken to the treatment couch. I was pleasantly surprised by the techniques. The Chinese element targeted my back with wonderful moves that really did unknot my areas of tenstion. This was followed by the Malaysian element – a full stomach massage and finally the Indian-inspired massage that eliminated any excess body heat by stimulating the reflex zones on my feet with the help of a Kansu bowl. This also balanced my energy levels, getting rid of any negative energy. The lowdown: I really enjoyed experiencing new types of massage, particularly on my stomach. My sluggish digestion system was given a kick start and I had a flatter stomach for days. I immediately felt happier, calmer and more balanced. This mood lasted for a few days afterwards and I felt cleansed and energised. Best for: Anyone in need of a mental of physical boost Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks

Professional Beauty September 2014

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HIGH TECH ANTI SPOT EXPERTS EFFECTIVE LONG TERM REDUCTION OF UNAPPEALING PIGMENT SPOTS FOR AN EVEN COMPLEXION! 1. LIGHTENING: pigment spots lose their color intensity and size

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SEE THE CONVINCING RESULTS OF THE INNOVATIVE ANTI SPOT EXPERTS WITH TRIPLE CONCEPT:

SpotEx concentrate & day fluid & night fluid FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR REVIDERM PARTNER:

Abu Dhabi : Tel.: 00971 2 6275926 Dubai : Tel.: 00971 4 3884549 Email:

info@specializedbeauty.com

THE ART OF AGE-LESS BEAUTY

new products

professionalbeauty.ae

Dermalogica Encouraging clients to be mindful of preventing sun-damage as an everyday health practice, Dermalogica introduces Protection 50 Sport SPF50 with oleosome technology, and a newly repackaged After Sun Repair. Both products are part of Dermalogicaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Daylight Defense system, developed for everyday protection against detrimental solar exposure. New Protection 50 Sport SPF50 is water-resistant for up to 40 minutes and can be used for both face and body. Call Healthcare Trading +971 4 447 76 36

skin deep This month the focus is on radiance with sun protection, complexion boosters and skin-friendly make-up Anne Semonin Express Radiance Ice Cubes combine the anti-ageing effects of cryotherapy with a new generation of neurocosmetics. Ice cold therapy is thought to have a reversing effect on cellular ageing and also boosts skin function. The product contains the botanical extract of wild indigo and has been designed to tighten the skin, boost radiance and create a sensation of relaxation and wellbeing. Quickly absorbed, the product is an ideal skin preparation product for make-up. Call The Product House + 971 4 379 19 66

Phytomer The latest release from the French skincare brand is Reset Eye Fluid from the premium Pioneer range. The serum is formulated to help counteract pollution damage, as well as reduce the appearance of fine lines and dark circles around the eyes. Key actives include a new marine complex dubbed Algoreset, a visible marine filler and algolight complex. Call Beauty Leaders + 971 2 676 46 00

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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new products

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75 Orly As its latest innovation in nail care, Orly has launched BB CrĂ¨me for nails. The formula hydrates as well as strengthening and whitening, thanks to ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ascorbic acid and glass microspheres. It has a pearlescent finish as well, to add a glossy shine to a natural nail look. Call +971 4 379 9939

Mii Salon cosmetics brand Mii is tapping into the trend for make-up that takes care of your skin, with the launch of its new BB creams in fair, medium and dark shades. There are two products available; the Skin Loving BB has an SPF45 to protect skin and contains amino-rich soy extracts. The Eye Loving version protects and restores that delicate area, containing raspberry stem cells and hyaluronic acid, with a brush to apply. Call Mii + 44 (0) 161 980 23 33

Spotlight Elemis This month sees the launch of three moisturisers to boost hydration in tired, thirsty skin. There are two day creams; Hydra-Boost is designed for drier skins, and contains samphire extract and starflower oil to lock in moisture, myrtle and vitamin E to fight free radicals, and hyaluronic acid. The Hydra-Balance Day Cream has been formulated for combination skins, and contains meadowsweet to regulate oil production and neroli to purify, as well as hyaluronic acid and betaine to regulate moisture in the skin. Meanwhile the Hydra-Nourish night cream has been formulated to detoxify, condition and restore skin. The formula combines hyaluronic acid with botanical actives including Persian silk tree extract to prevent the build up of toxins and revitalise skin, and sweet almond oil to condition and nourish. Elemis has also launched a new addition to its long running Frangipani Monoi product line. The Body Cream is rich in the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature active ingredients and helps to nourish skin. Call Elemis +971 4 324 54 14

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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new products

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76 Eve Lom The Radiance Perfecting Make-up acts as advanced skincare as well as providing coverage for the skin. Harnessing the power of botanical stem cells, the makeup smoothes and minimises imperfections, fine line and pores, while BerryFlux Vita works deep down to hydrate, firm, repair and protect. It is suitable for dry, oily, youthful and mature skins alike providing flawless cover and a fresh feeling for the wearer. Call The Product House + 971 4 379 19 66

Jane Iredale Gharieni Group Functional, practical and elegant â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is the new MLW Wax Trolley made by the German Gharieni Group. The new design offers easy and clean depilation with a wax heater integrated in the top compartment. In the underlying compartment three wax cartridges can be stored and the integrated folding rubbish container below makes for simple disposal of the used materials. You can choose from a selection of over 50 wood and colour fittings, in matte or high-gloss varnish. The MLX Wax Trolley can be combined with any Gharieni spa tables. Visit: www.gharieni.de

The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest beauty breakthrough, Powder-Me SPF, is an all-over face and body powder, which protects from both UVB and UVA rays with an SPF 30. Powder-Me SPF uses titanium dioxide, one of the purest and most effective active ingredients for sun protection. It also utilises natural clay that is derived from remote mines and dried in the sun. The ancient clay is completely free of contaminants and atmospheric pollutants and contains minerals that nourish and calm the skin. The product applicator has a mirror for easy application. It comes in three colours, Translucent (for no appearance on the skin) Tanned and Golden. Call Healthcare Trading +971 4 447 76 36

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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classified

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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae

TRAINING

The Product House Sign up now!

Basic Body Course

Basic Facial Course

CIBTAC

21st September to 14th October 2014

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The Product House

Launching 2015

For registration & info contact: Sally Beighton Training & Account Manager training2@theproducthouse.biz

www.theproducthouse.biz | Tel: +971 4 379 1966 Planters Alley, Warehouse 12, Street 4a, District 364 Al Manara Junction, Al Quoz, Dubai, UAE

20/08/2014 14:37

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

20/08/2014 14:41

classifed

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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae

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DISTRIBUTORS

Acumen International Trading Perfumes & Cosmetics Luxurious range of Organic Lip Balms Arivine 6x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 18/08/20 Tel: 04-3212381 • Fax: 04-3212382

from US exclusively for Spas and Salons

HSA International General Trading LLC Tel: 042527414 • Fax: 042527410 Mob: 0558755044 Beautiful Brands 4x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 E: info@hsainternationalgroup.com

TREAT YOUR SKIN LIKE A VIP www.seyo.de Made in Germany

Beautiful Brands L.L.C Email: gemma@beautifulbrands.me Phone: Medica 2x1 +971 Sept (0)43746950 2014_Layout 1

13/08/20

Beauty Solutions 4x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 +971 (0) 562564027

Hemani Group 2x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 1 For all your beauty brand needs including; Ciaté, Tria, Lipstick Queen, Herra, Slendertone and Sachajuan office: +971 4 3746970 / +971 4 3746950 email: kbc@beautysolutions-me.com

HEMANI GROUP OF COMPANIES

Emerging Beauty Brands 3x1 Sept 2014_L Balegro 3x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 18/08/20

manufacturer’s of natural & herbal products

Tel: +971-4-2947430 Email: info@hemanitrading.ae www.hemanitrading.ae

Office 304, Al Masaood Bldg, P.O. Box 322, Abu Dhabi Our brands include: Oribe, Xen-Tan, Picture Polish, t + 971.2.447.5612m Yllume and Foreo info@balegro.com Sisters Beauty Lounge 2x1 Sept 2014_Lay Email: info@emergingbeautybrands.com The Beauty Co 2x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 1 www.balegro.com Phone: 04 3687288 Beauty Distribution Company

Sisters Beauty Lounge P.O. Box: 114025, Dubai, UAE Head Office: +971 4 344 2261

The BeautyCo P.O. Box 215315, Business Bay, Dubai Email: info@thebeautyco.net / Web:www.thebeautyco.net Tel: +9714 4560822 / Fax: +9714 4562199

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SUPPLIES

SpaLution is an innovative full-service Spa Consulting Company dedicated to the consulting, design, planning & development of salons, spas, medical spa, resorts and health clubs Email: info@spalution.com Mob: +97150 4438812 www.spalution.com

Bellefontaine Middle East Trading LLC Sheikh Zayed Road, Fairmont Hotel, Ground Floor, Bellefontaine Boutique

Tel: 04 3291013 • Fax: 04 3291014 Email: info@gmhbi.com • www.gmhbi.com

Specialized Beauty 3x1 Sept 2014_Layout

Propak 2x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 13/08/20

FOR DETAILS CALL +971 50 652 9610 OR EMAIL info@st-tropezdubai.com

Propak L.L.C.

412 Dubai Real Estate Centre, Al Mina Road, Bur Dubai, Dubai Tel: 971 4 3456040 • Fax: 971 4 3456044 Email: sales@propak.ae • www.propak.ae

Beauty and spa equipment supplies Laser & Slimming Equipments

In Touch with Tomorrow …

Body Composition Analyzers Cosmetics & Microdermabrasion

02 627 5926 / 04 388 4549 info@specializedbeauty.com

Professional Beauty GCC September 2014

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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae

PR & MARKETING SERVICES

TO ADVERTISE CALL +971 (0)437 57300 Nina Gallery 2x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 VLCC 14/ Middle east 2x1 Sept 2014_Layout

PRODUCTS

MONTHLY

ANNUAL

Nina Gallery L.L.C.

29 Al Khalij Center Al Mankhool Road, Dubai Tel: 04-3599412 • Mob: 050 6451341 Email: ninagallery@gmail.com www.ng-sk.com

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VLCC MIDDLE EAST LLC 2303 Al Attar Tower, Sheikh Zayed Road, PO Box 52411, Dubai

Tel: +971 4 343 5633

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RECRUITMENT

SERVICES

A Leading Cosmetics Trading Company dealing with Skin Care, Hair Care, Make Up and Beauty tools is looking for:

TANNING ZONE SALON

Brand Manager Sales Manager

e Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence, Sadaf 2, P30A Plaza Level

Send CV to operations@alonwan.net

Email: info@tanningzonesalon.co

Minimum 3 year’s experience in a relevant position

Phone Number: 044468636

Green PlainSUPPLIES General 2x1 Sept 2014_Layo Salongenius 2x1 Sept 2014_Layout 1 14/ SALON SOFTWARE

Green Plain General Trading Tel: +971 050 65 29 610 Email: info@st-tropezdubai.com www.st-tropezdubai.com

SALON SUPPLIES

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Salongenius SALONGENIUS Software is the Salon Management System, created to help you discover & grow your business www.salongenius.com

10/6/14 14:40:06

Altearah Bio Colour Therapy Attention spas, therapists, healers and beauty centres! Altearah Bio is a 100% Organic French Colour Therapy range. A combination of aromatherapy and chromotherapy, the range comprises of 14 colours and scents that harmonise the mind, body and spirit. Distributed in the Middle East by Spadunya Distribution, the ready-to-use essential oil compositions are formulated in perfumes, face and body oils, serums, gommages, bath salts, fragrances and candles. These products are an ideal complement for anyone working in the wellbeing industry to either include the treatments or recommend products to clients. Spadunya provides full training. For enquiries: E: info@spadunyadistribution-me.com • T: +971 4 4298662 www.altearahbio.com • www.spadunyaclub.com

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SUMMER COLLECTION 2014

PACIFIC SUNSET 01619

ROCKIN’ THE REEF RO 01618

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